Years ago I picked up a small tool called a Hyper-cracker for
loosening cassette rings.  It does require removal of the wheel &
skewer; slip the tool into the lock ring; reinstall skewer & wheel,
with the tool's lever arm in the correct location against the frame.
With the bike in low gear, you just turn the pedals a small amount to
loosen the lock ring.  Remove everything again to remove the
cassette.  It's a bit tedious for shop work but worth taking along on
a tour.

dougP

On Jun 21, 1:09 pm, Eric Norris <campyonly...@me.com> wrote:
> Faced with a recalcitrant freewheel, I always found it easiest to clamp the 
> freewheel tool into the vice and then grab the wheel and turn it.  The 
> leverage in the wheel itself was always enough.
>
> --Eric
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 21, 2010, at 12:41 PM, Steve Palincsar <palin...@his.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Mon, 2010-06-21 at 12:17 -0700, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
> >> "One benefit of freehub designs is that this can be a little easier -
> >> single tool and wrench rather
> >> than a bench vise."
>
> >> Maybe I'm misunderstanding your words, but to remove a cassette,
> >> generally you'd need a chain whip (or vise whip!!!), cassette lockring
> >> tool, and a wrench to turn the cassette lockring tool. No chainwhip
> >> needed with a freewheel -  maybe just a big adjustable wrench and the
> >> appropriate freewheel tool, assuming the FW threads were greased
> >> before installation and that it hasn't been on there for 25 years.
>
> > And a bench vise and a six foot long cheater bar as well.  That's what
> > it took to get the last freewheel off my tandem.
>
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