I’m going to second what Chris said, that is excellent scientific 
protocol…change one thing at a time so once you solve your issue you will 
be reasonably certain what solved it. 

Think, plan, do, evaluate. 

Ray

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 1:21:08 PM UTC-7 Chris Halasz wrote:

> Leah 
>
> I'm not saying you could have been, I'm wondering if you are aware that 
> you *are* a first class bonafide Systems Engineer, what with the focused 
> and detailed fault tree analysis 
> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fault_tree_analysis> and fish-bone diagram 
> <http://Ishikawa%20diagram> you're constructing. 
>
> (About the possibility of your being a card-carrying obsessive compulsive 
> cyclist, nothing unique about that here on this list). 
>
> Enjoying every tic of this discussion, 
>
> Chris 
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 12:19:41 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> I don’t remember if I updated here…I had a Nitto Tallux 12 cm stem on my 
>> bike that I pulled this weekend. I had a tall Nitto 280 mm 10 cm stem that 
>> I wasn’t using, so in order to eliminate one thing at a time and 
>> reevaluate, that’s the plan. I rode 6 miles today and nothing. Everything 
>> feels solid, no noise. The bars are up too high, though. I want to lower 
>> them but that stem is slammed all the way in the head tube and can’t go 
>> lower. Because they are higher and closer than my normal setup, I can’t 
>> yank on them and put my weight on them like I normally do. So they might be 
>> behaving because they are not under duress. 
>>
>> Also of note. I would get a now-and-then vibration that sounded like 
>> maybe my metal front fender. It would happen at high speeds, which is 
>> usually hammering on a club ride. That was non-existent today. Wondering if 
>> it’s not the fender and instead something in that head tube/stem interface…
>>
>> I really hate this.
>> Leah 
>>
>> On Oct 7, 2024, at 2:55 PM, Brian Campbell <bdcamp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Given that the issue was solved by lubricating the bars previously (as 
>> mentioned above ^^^^) I would try a bar swap first. If you have bars that 
>> are 25.4 and have  no sleeve on hand that are not being used they would be 
>> my first choice.
>>
>>
>> If not these are an inexpensive way to diagnose the issue and it seems 
>> you are good with swapping bars on your own.
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Handlebar-Handlebars-Replacement-Component-Aluminum/dp/B0CSMTRRGF/ref=sr_1_24?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Gw9_I8wrRr8dt9fq-LybtGUhzpjQ77_hjcQ87kbcXteYmQ0rXAWD5AHf8MLTZOdNNKbNJidDVMEgzd6f9pUhb1Lgu10Gwkdc6-oHIyuz9VIYGGggknQvBjBVt84Cmt3TtFfFVNW5viPWW3B07zPRqBwYAdLhEzpsN4MDY3qda-6Xf1CjPJebRrytcS0BMn54xuf8Ls7msIbzY6u7VjaVAAtrFnKz46KT_Wqsn8T4PcmTNoldGOa_wYanGPDNg9PGI4dTd82Tz9PvRtArKDHtTfEZ23NoLW_8wjWHGpIAwDs.TgSuzlhrtFRpmoiL2BVPW9j9kvJu7GTlSg_f7Hrlnmw&dib_tag=se&keywords=25.4%2Bsilver%2Bhandle%2Bbar&qid=1728321716&sr=8-24&th=1&psc=1
>>
>> Good luck!
>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 12:11:22 PM UTC-4 Mathias Steiner wrote:
>>
>>> On the facts & observations side, we now have one clicking handlebar 
>>> sleeve, and two (maybe three?) instances of clicking being resolved by 
>>> cleaning, greasing, and reinstalling the stem into the steerer tube.
>>>
>>> We've had zero reports of clicking resolved by headset work, though it's 
>>> a reasonable possibility. 
>>>
>>> I'd exhaust the first two possiblities before going to the trouble of 
>>> squaring and facing a head tube that may or may not need it. 
>>> I vote "not need" because it was fine for years. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 11:14:56 AM UTC-4 bmfo...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> I recently had a tick develop out of the blue on my 1989 schwinn probe 
>>>> commuter. Nitto stem with the KT bars. I uninstalled and reinstalled the 
>>>> stem and it fixed it. I think the wedge may have been slightly loose and 
>>>> got bound up within the fork steerer.
>>>>
>>>> Little noises like that drive me nuts so i was happy to have it easily 
>>>> resolved. Good luck Leah! 
>>>>
>>>> Brian
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:58:56 AM UTC-5 mwill...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Rivendell is very clear on their website as to why they don’t face and 
>>>>> chase frames. They state that they will do it if asked for $30. I’ve done 
>>>>> my own bottom bracket shells on two of my bikes that use a cup and cone 
>>>>> style bottom bracket, but I’ve been fortunate enough to not have an issue 
>>>>> with head tubes. Best wishes.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>>
>>>>> On Oct 7, 2024, at 4:16 AM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW 
>>>>> Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Leah
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Based on the history of the 3 Platys, facing the HT on the one from 
>>>>> Vegas (assuming this is the ticing one) may be a good idea based on what 
>>>>> Peter White mentioned. 
>>>>>
>>>>> You may want to replace the headset also since they will drive out the 
>>>>> existing fixed cups to do the facing and your local shop apparently 
>>>>> mangled  the adjustable cup.  The original headset in your other 2 Platys 
>>>>> appear to work ok if the HT faced, so buying a new one should work.
>>>>>
>>>>> The other unknown is the alignment of the steerer tube in the fork 
>>>>> crown, as Peter pointed out   This could be checked/measured for 
>>>>> perpendicularity when they do the facing since the fork & steerer tube 
>>>>> will 
>>>>> be out of the frame and can easily be checked.   Ask the list members how 
>>>>> to measure the alignment of the steerer tube in the fork crown and what 
>>>>> to 
>>>>> do if it is not square.
>>>>>
>>>>> John Hawrylak
>>>>> Woodstown NJ
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 10:54:58 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>>>>> Ding! wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I guess we’ll never know. It came from Riv, and it was their sample 
>>>>>> for their 1st gen Platypuses. It was assembled at a Vegas shop that was 
>>>>>> heavily racing/roadbike oriented. The mechanic is no longer there and I 
>>>>>> don’t remember if those were the days when Riv was still doing frame 
>>>>>> prep. 
>>>>>> This tic on the stem is new and I’ve had the bike nearing 4 years. Can 
>>>>>> it 
>>>>>> show up as an issue 4 years later?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The 2nd Platy came from Analog, and since someone posted that Analog 
>>>>>> DOES do frame prep, I’ll likely never worry about that one. The newest 
>>>>>> purple Platy was done here, and to make the Ignite Components stuff work 
>>>>>> they had to “face the bottom bracket” and it was a real challenge to get 
>>>>>> those cranks and bottom bracket to work on my frame. Maybe they went 
>>>>>> ahead 
>>>>>> and faced the head tube while they were at it? I don’t know!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Oct 6, 2024, at 10:29 PM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW 
>>>>>> Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Garth stated; " The head tube facing is supposed to be at the time 
>>>>>> of manufacture...".   I think we all agree, but I'm not sure if it isn't 
>>>>>> done, it's 'unscrupulous'.  I think most mass produced frames are 
>>>>>> faced/chased by the manufacturer.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> What I think is poor quality,  is whoever assembled Leah's Platy 
>>>>>> (RBW??) may not have faced the HT.  It's a shame, since it is 10 minute 
>>>>>> operation if done on a bare frame, but probably a 1 hour job after the 
>>>>>> frame is assembled, with removing the stem, disconnecting cables, remove 
>>>>>> the fixed cups and then put it all back together.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Leah might want to ask whoever assembled it, if the HT was faced, 
>>>>>> along with the BB shell.  Maybe it was.   If it was, then it could be 
>>>>>> removed from being a cause.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> John Hawrylak
>>>>>> Woodstown NJ
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 7:53:55 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The head tube facing is supposed to be at the time of manufacture, 
>>>>>>> along with the reaming and tapping of the threads. If the factory can't 
>>>>>>> comprehend it, then it's up to the retailer to do this at no additional 
>>>>>>> charge. I'm surprised how it's being accepted as normal, acceptable or 
>>>>>>> even 
>>>>>>> expected. That work is part of what you're paying for with a new frame. 
>>>>>>> Charging extra would be, to me, unscrupulous. And that's that. 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 2:40:25 PM UTC-4 Matti wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I have a Sam Hillborne and noticed a headset problem when climbing 
>>>>>>>> and applying upper body force to the bars... It was a distinct fore 
>>>>>>>> and aft 
>>>>>>>> movement that could be felt (but not heard) and it was hard to 
>>>>>>>> duplicate 
>>>>>>>> the sensation when bike was static on the floor while rocking the bike 
>>>>>>>> back 
>>>>>>>> and forth with front brake applied.  I tried multiple times to adjust 
>>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>>> headset, with no luck.  I finally brought the bike into a shop and 
>>>>>>>> they 
>>>>>>>> adjusted the headset, telling me it was loose.  So far it seems the 
>>>>>>>> problem 
>>>>>>>> is fixed, but if it comes back, I'll see if the head tube needs 
>>>>>>>> machining/alignment recommended by Peter White.  I think that process 
>>>>>>>> is 
>>>>>>>> considered standard practice for frame prep in some shops: 
>>>>>>>> https://analogcycles.com/pages/frame-prep 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Saturday, October 5, 2024 at 3:10:26 PM UTC-7 peter...@gmail.com 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Leah,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> My wife and I both ride Rivendell frames. She has an Atlantis, and 
>>>>>>>>> I have a Rambouillet. They both ride wonderfully. The frame geometry 
>>>>>>>>> is 
>>>>>>>>> excellent. But they both had the same issues with the steerer 
>>>>>>>>> tube machining and head tube machining that all Rivendell frames 
>>>>>>>>> have, 
>>>>>>>>> except for the custom frames. The ends of the head tube are not 
>>>>>>>>> exactly 
>>>>>>>>> perpendicular to the geometric axis of the head tube, and the fork 
>>>>>>>>> crowns 
>>>>>>>>> are not precisely machined so that the headset parts don't always 
>>>>>>>>> line 
>>>>>>>>> up correctly. Take your bike to an experienced mechanic who has the 
>>>>>>>>> appropriate tools to machine the head tune and the fork crown so that 
>>>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>>>> headset components are in the correct alignment. Then your bike will 
>>>>>>>>> really 
>>>>>>>>> shine.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Email me directly and I'll try to find a shop that can fix this 
>>>>>>>>> for you.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> p...@peterwhitecycles.com
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Oct 5, 2024 at 4:29 PM Leah Peterson <jonasa...@gmail.com> 
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Ted, I’ve had the loose clunking headset on my Betty Foy and your 
>>>>>>>>>> description is my memory of it. 
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I got 19 miles in this morning. At first, everything was 
>>>>>>>>>> blissfully quiet and sturdy. By mile 12 the ticking came back. Not 
>>>>>>>>>> as bad, 
>>>>>>>>>> but it’s there. Remember in the video when I applied pressure to the 
>>>>>>>>>> left 
>>>>>>>>>> grip and could initiate the sound? Now it’s in the right grip. I 
>>>>>>>>>> can’t do 
>>>>>>>>>> it consistently and there doesn’t seem to be correlation with weight 
>>>>>>>>>> on the 
>>>>>>>>>> bars. I did throw that bike around heartily today. I took it on a 
>>>>>>>>>> wooded 
>>>>>>>>>> trail with tons of tree roots to bash over and inclines to stand up 
>>>>>>>>>> and 
>>>>>>>>>> pull on the bars. 
>>>>>>>>>> [image: image0.jpeg]
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> It’s just so frustrating. I’m worried there’s a more sinister 
>>>>>>>>>> problem, like in the head tube/steerer. Like, please not the frame. 
>>>>>>>>>> I can 
>>>>>>>>>> replace any component and will do so with gladness, but please let 
>>>>>>>>>> my frame 
>>>>>>>>>> be ok. It’s my #1 favorite bike and it’s so special.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Joe thinks maybe a new headset. I wonder if I should spring for 
>>>>>>>>>> new bars and stem. 
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Buying new things to address unknown problems with old 
>>>>>>>>>> things…sounds expensive. But I’d do it if I knew it would fix the 
>>>>>>>>>> ticking.
>>>>>>>>>> L
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Oct 4, 2024, at 8:50 PM, Ted Durant <tedd...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Friday, October 4, 2024 at 4:43:09 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle 
>>>>>>>>>> Ding Ding! wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> He found that the headset was loose, so he tightened that too 
>>>>>>>>>> (and mashed the headset cup or spacer or whatever in the process). 
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> It's worth noting that, while the frames ship with headsets, they 
>>>>>>>>>> aren't installed. Despite trying to be careful about installation, I 
>>>>>>>>>> have 
>>>>>>>>>> found on all three of my Sams that the FSA headsets seem to loosen 
>>>>>>>>>> up 
>>>>>>>>>> pretty quickly after initial installation, and the linear bearings 
>>>>>>>>>> seem to 
>>>>>>>>>> want the adjustable surface to be pretty tight, tighter than normal 
>>>>>>>>>> ball 
>>>>>>>>>> bearing headsets. 
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> That said, I wouldn't describe the sound of a loose headset as 
>>>>>>>>>> "ticking", it's more like "clunking" and is readily felt and seen by 
>>>>>>>>>> applying the front brake and pushing the bike forward and back.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> And I would be irate if a shop mechanic handed back my bike with 
>>>>>>>>>> a mangled part. My headset locknuts are bit scuffed but I only have 
>>>>>>>>>> myself 
>>>>>>>>>> to blame :-)
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Ted Durant
>>>>>>>>>> Milwaukee, WI USA
>>>>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email 
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>>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/00dc9fa9-1594-4c78-ad38-9d6f68f14bd7n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>>>> Peter White
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in 
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>>>>>>  
>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/92730b9d-01c3-4bdd-acd5-77fcc5b503c6n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>>> .
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- 
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