The drinard video is very good.  That's exactly the thing I'm looking
at when running my experiments.



On Dec 21, 9:34 pm, Tim McNamara <tim...@bitstream.net> wrote:
> Try the simple things first:  move the saddle slightly forward or  
> back, maybe 1/2", to change the weight distribution of you on the  
> bike.  Change the distribution of stuff you carry on the bike (or  
> consider carrying less stuff).  Raise or lower the bars to change  
> your position.  Make sure the headset is adjusted.  Make sure the  
> wheels are true and properly aligned in the frame.  Swap the front  
> tire to the back and vice versa; look for casing defects in the  
> tires.  Try less inflation pressure (or more) in the tires.  Try a  
> different size tire.  If your bike starts to shimmy with your hands  
> on the bars, stand up slightly and ease your weight off the saddle-  
> this will usually stop a shimmy instantly.
>
> The cause of shimmy is not exactly known.  Since it tends to be speed-
> dependent, it is likely that vertical and gyroscopic forces play a  
> part.  There appear to be at least two fulcrum points, the rear tire  
> contact patch and the saddle.  The bike frame appears to act as a  
> spring, whipping back and forth; nutation can be observed with the  
> steerer turning slightly in the head bearings as the front part of  
> the frame travels laterally.  Interestingly the front tire contact  
> patch usually continues to track in a straight line but, as the  
> shimmy worsens, the contact patch can begin to arc back and forth on  
> the road.  This is what is often meant when someone talks about a  
> death wobble, because the vehicle becomes unstable and will often  
> crash unless the wobble can be stopped.  Wobbles can be started by  
> road surface irregularities
>
> *Great* video by the much-missed-in-rec.bikes.tech Damon Rinard of a  
> deliberately induced no-handed shimmy:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xODNzyUbIHo
>
> I wish that was in slo-mo.
>
> This is Rob English crashing at the Battle Mountain IHPVA event on  
> level terrain at about 70 mph (I bet he appreciated his fairing very  
> much).  It appears to me that his pedaling effort caused the problem  
> and that as the bike started to wobble, his pedaling amplified it.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5Dapy1xUq0
>
> My observations with my bikes (a 1996 Riv A/R [26 x 1.25], a 1995  
> Ritchey Road custom [700 x 25], a 1998 Gunnar Crosshairs [700 x 28]  
> and a home-built road bike [700 x 25] all with Panaracer Pasela tires  
> at the rated maximum pressure) is that:
>
> 1.  none of them currently shimmy with my hands on the bars.
>
> 2. the Gunnar shimmied when I mounted a Nitto mini-rack on the front  
> fork, even with no load on the rack, and stopped as soon as I removed  
> the rack- I could feel the pulsation in my hands when they were on  
> the bars.  The Gunnar sometimes shimmies if I ride no handed and lean  
> back. Reynolds 853 with Waterford fork upgrade.  Oddly it did not  
> shimmy with a really old Eclipse bar bag (one of the ones from the  
> late 70s with a rack that slipped over the bars and under the stem  
> and with elastic cords going down to the dropouts).
>
> 3.  the Riv doesn't, with or without the same Nitto mini rack, with  
> or without a load.  Reynolds 753 frame with 531 fork.  No shimmy that  
> I can ever recall having on this bike.
>
> 4.  the Ritchey shimmies at certain speeds no-handed (19-20 mph and  
> up) if coasting but not if pedaling; worse if I lean back.  Tange  
> Prestige Ritchey Logic tubes and fork tubes.
>
> 5.  the home built bike shimmies occasionally no-handed.  Reynolds  
> 501 frame and fork tubes.
>
> 5.  the scariest shimmy I ever had was descending on a Bianchi  
> Reparto Corsa-built bike when I tried the aero trick of sliding off  
> the back of the saddle.  It felt like the rear wheel was shimmying,  
> very disconcerting.  The Ritchey replaced that bike and handles so  
> much better than the Italian job.

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