My method for drive side screws is to just search my parts bowl for
something that is close, then use a washer (or 2) on the outside of
the rack to keep things flush on the inside.  It also depends on how
close the freewheel/cassette is to the frame.  On the Sam Hillborne,
it's not too close, so a few threads don't matter.

Wally - I'll join the chorus of saying remove the bolt (slowly and
carefully), grease a new bolt and slowly install that.  If nothing
breaks, you'll probably be fine.  Broke a bolt on my Fargo last year.
Took the mechanic at my LBS some extra time to extract that bolt and
get things fixed.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Apr 24, 2:10 pm, doug peterson <dougpn...@cox.net> wrote:
> On drive side rack eyelets, I use a button head cap screw installed
> from the inside so it becomes a stud onto which the rack strut mounts
> and is retained with a nut.  Button heads are a low profile, domed
> head allen so there's less chance of interference with the chain.  The
> rear wheel must usually be removed to install one from the inside but
> I usually do it once and leave it in place, regardless of whether the
> rack is on.
>
> The "belt'n'suspenders" approach to rack mounting is to use bolts long
> enough to go thru all the threaded eyelets with enough thread out the
> other side for a washer, lock washer and nylok nut.  Also carry a
> small selection of extra rack hardware on tour.  And zip ties....and
> duct tape.
>
> dougP
>
> On Apr 23, 1:57 pm, Wally <wwer...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hello!
> > I was installing a rack on my A. Homer Hilsen, and tightening down the
> > right-side strut on the frame, when I felt it all sort of give. The
> > bolt seems to be stable, but I am concerned that I may have stripped
> > the threads on the frame.
>
> > What should I do about this?
>
> > Thanks for your help and advice.
> > Wally- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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