Pete, & All:
Thanks for giving us the blow by blow details of your slow coasting dilemma. One of my first thoughts were the chain tension being the culprit. I know, I've done it as well with my White eno. It's easy to get to much purchase with a wrench around the axle. =;O So I've been perplexed by that same slow coasting sensation you get with a too tight chain. So looking at my townie I see perhaps more slack than I should have. It's better to err on that side of things I think - as long as the chain can't jump off your teeth. Not that you really need that much either, but we of the age of derailleurs didn't have the business of chain tension burned into or ROM at a young age. Does anyone know a good web source for chain tension instruction? I haven't seen one. I run enough slack so I can shake the chain 3-4cm from top of shake to bottom. That may seem excessive to some - but my ride coasts like there's no tomorrow. When sighting down the chain, if you can't see some sag easily it's too tight. Phil B On Feb 12, 1:45 pm, charlie <cl_v...@hotmail.com> wrote: > I use the White 16-19 freewheel also.....I just blast the pawls with a > little Tri-flow oil now and then and while the pawls are stiff and the > cranks will rotate on a repair stand you actually want good strong > springs in the pawls for positive engagement. The weight of the rider > and bike will easily overcome any resistance in the freewheel > mechanism and it'll coast just fine. I do however agree with some of > the others.... I prefer mustache or drop bars for that 45 degree back > angle. The albatross bars are okay depending on how you have them set > up. I found that even with the longer stem recommended the front end > feels too light and I feel too upright. On a townie or crusier bicycle > for short trips its no biggie but a single speed meant for road riding > needs a more aerodynamic position that also takes advantage of your > glute muscles more. My opinion of course but you might try a longer > stem or lower the bars a speck and see if that helps. Try riding out > on the curve of the bar and see if you notice a difference. My own > albatross bars were mounted upside down to take advantage of that sort > of like a shallow mustache bar. > > On Feb 12, 10:41 am, Peter Pesce <petepe...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > Winds gusting to 40 today, so it's a bit tough to check for sluggishness. > > You're either rocketing along with a tailwind, or barely moving. > > Early investigations on the drivetrain reveal a slightly too tight chain, > > which isn't helping pedaling efficiency or bearing looseness. The chainline > > is good, and the BB is good. The WI freewheel is definately tighter than > > the Shimano. The pawl springs are so strong the cog will actually rotate > > backwards if you turn it to the point just before it clicks, and release > > it. Still, I don't think it's so bad that it's the whole cause of the > > sluggish perception. > > I plan to commute this week on the Kojaks to get a large sample size of > > experiences with them, then see where we are. > > Thanks all. > > Pete -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
