What comes to mind in reading this:
'Tools? We don't need no stinking tools!'
The India episode gets my vote for the Bike Hacking Extraordinaire medal.
-JimD
On Sep 5, 2012, at 8:09 AM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

> Late to the party, but anyway! I learned how to build bikes by jumping in 
> headfirst and making all the mistakes possible before I was 18. And I was 
> ambitious: had a project for a while, circa age 17, 1972, to build a 
> recumbent out of a section of heavy irrigation tubing for the backbone (we 
> lived in the middle of a large coffee plantation and the pipe was left lying 
> around just waiting to be liberated). My father squashed that project. But I 
> did build my first ss circa 1971 only to find no brake would fit (new Indian 
> made roadster frame, donated flip flop 700c rear, Westwood, 24" front wheel 
> stolen from my brother's kiddie bike. Principal tools -- not kidding -- were 
> vice grips, pipe wrench, crudely cast, Indian-made, single-hole paper punch 
> for pliers, and bb lockring adjustment and chain dis- and re-assembly using a 
> nail and hammer. It's awkward but can be done. I've used the hammer-and-punch 
> system even recently on the trike where I couldn't get a good approach with 
> my VAR lockring pliers. Braking at first accomplished (hilly terrain, 
> traffic) with the Ked-between-for-blade ploy, leaving deep grooves in the 
> sole of the right shoe; later with a scavenged, flea market coaster that, 
> with the 50/16 or so gearing, registered either "on" or "off". Sold that bike 
> for KS 150, which was just a slight loss and worth, at the time, about $25.
> 
> Next project, also circa 1972, was to tear down, strip and repaint a late 
> '60s Varsity and replace the drive train with a hacked 2-sprocket AW and a 
> pushrod Benelux rd. Spray painted it (was this before the days of rattlecans, 
> or had they not yet turned up in Nairobi, or did I just not find them?) gloss 
> black with oil-based enamel in a Flit insect spray gun and hand-added gold 
> pin striping. Classy bike with whitewalls, aluminum fenders and home-made 
> brass head badge; also sold, for some KS 400 or so, IIRC. It was only after 
> these two experiments that I got my first real 10 speed, a hotted up Raleigh 
> Sprite with Brooks saddle, Simplex Prestige (Delrin -- gave me no problem, 
> but then I didn't shift much), cottered, riveted 44/48 crankset half stepping 
> a 14-28 (tho' I didn't know about halfstepping and simply shifted it -- when 
> I did -- as a crossover; and Weinmann Raleigh Approved centerpulls.
> 
> I also successfully disassembled and reassembled coaster brakes and the SA AW 
> for the Varsity project.
> 
> I think it is easier if you start by disassembly, carefully keeping the parts 
> sequence in view. Googling "bicycle assembly" there are all sorts of videos 
> available. 
> 
> On Mon, Sep 3, 2012 at 11:29 PM, Michael Richters 
> <michael.richt...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm about to embark on the adventure of putting together a bicycle for
> the first time, and I find myself anticipating all manner of
> difficulties arising from my lack of experience.  I've got my
> brand-new A Homer Hilsen and a large assortment of parts, doo-dads,
> and associated accoutrements, and even most -- if not all -- of the
> tools that I ought to need to put it all together, but before I begin,
> I'd like to solicit some advice from the learned audience of this
> mailing list.
> 
> My first dilemma is where to begin.  Clearly, I have a few choices,
> but it's not clear what unforseen surprises await me if I do things in
> an order that it less than optimal.  The only thing attached to the
> frame so far is the headset (and front fork, of course).  Perhaps the
> best thing to start with would be the bottom bracket, then the cranks?
>  Or maybe there's a good reason to set up the stem and handlebar
> first?  Speaking of which, it seems nigh-impossible to get the brake
> levers I've got onto the bar.  If watched this video
> (http://youtu.be/oEUm3VzF_Z0), but it seems the bar that I've chosen
> (Grand Bois Randonneur) might have a larger diameter in the bend,
> because even with the clamp loosened all the way (or, indeed,
> separated completely from the brake levers), it's a very tight fit,
> and it seems impossible to slide onto the bar without causing lots of
> zig-zag scratches in the aluminum bar.
> 
> This brings me to another, more general question -- where and how much
> grease to use.  It doesn't seem like a great idea to grease the
> aforementioned brake lever clamps, but maybe that's the only way to
> get them in place.  My inclination is to grease just about everything,
> especially threads, but maybe there are a few places where lubrication
> is a particularly bad idea, and everyone is just assumed to know about
> it...
> 
> Here's hoping I don't destroy anything in this process; I'd rather
> learn from the mistakes of others than by making my own, at least in
> this case.
> 
>   --MR
> 
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> 
> 
> -- 
> "Believe nothing until it has been officially denied."
>                                                    -- Claude Cockburn
> 
> -------------------------
> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> -------------------------
> 
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