Nick Legan, formerly of VeloNews, approaches it differently 
(http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/11/bikes-and-tech/ask-nick/ask-nick-team-tactics-chain-lengths-choosing-a-new-bike-and-more_197660):

Here’s my chain sizing method for a road bike (with entirely compatible 
gearing and derailleurs). I recommend sizing your chain using the largest 
cogset you intend to ride.

-Run the chain through the rear derailleur, on the smallest cog and on the 
small chainring. Pull it to where the chain won’t touch the pulley cage of 
the rear derailleur, keeping it as long as possible.

-If you’re cautious, mark the pivot that you intend to cut with a Sharpie, 
then run the chain (still through the derailleur) over the biggest cog and 
big chainring. You should have plenty of slack.

On Saturday, October 20, 2012 3:17:47 AM UTC-4, rw1911 wrote:
>
> I've always found the Park Tool site to be useful... 
>
> http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing 
>
>
>
> On Oct 19, 5:24 pm, PATRICK MOORE <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote: 
> > I just put a new Sachs P 48 (? Cheap, 8 speed, NIB) on the Fargo and 
> > found that it is fully two links shorter than the 9 sp chain it 
> > replaced. It will cover the Big/Big combo (46/34 -- note that the 34 
> > is in the #7 position) without grumbling but the cage is angled 
> > considerably forward. The next-to-biggest cog is a 28, I think, and it 
> > handles that fine. 
> > 
> > No chain suck on todays mixed dirt/pavement 26 mile ride, so perhaps 
> > the added tension is helping keep things in place? 
> > 
> > At any rate, given the above -- and the fact that I never use the 
> > 46/34 anyway; I do use the 46/28 occasionally -- any reason to think 
> > that I ought to add more links? 
> > 
> > -- 
> > Vote early, vote often, vote Rhinoceros!http://tinyurl.com/d7muj2t 
> > 
> > ------------------------- 
> > Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA 
> > For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRWhttp://
> resumespecialties.com/index.html 
> > ------------------------- 
>

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