Thanks for all the replies folks! On Monday, January 21, 2013 2:36:28 PM UTC-8, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote: > > Those differences are mostly inconsequential. Take for example the 108. > Compared to the 110, it's narrower by 1mm per side. OK, so sometimes that > can mean the difference between the crank arms clearing the chainstay, but > most of the time it's really not that important to get the BB length spot > on. Especially for a square taper BB/crank system, using or not using > grease on the taper and torquing to spec (whose spec) can also change the > installation by millimeters. > > > On Monday, January 21, 2013 12:55:31 PM UTC-8, Dave wrote: >> >> Thanks Jay. Typo on my part. 110mm. Then with Phil Wood, seems like >> 110 isn't an option.....108, 111, 113. Not that I'm ready to drop that >> kind of cash, but just trying to understand my options. >> >> >> >> On Monday, January 21, 2013 12:51:08 PM UTC-8, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: >>> >>> Says 110mm, like this one, >>> http://www.jensonusa.com/Bottom-Brackets/Shimano-UN53-Square-Taper-BB >>> $10 >>> >>> On Jan 21, 10:42 pm, Dave <davele...@gmail.com> wrote: >>> > Looks like I've got some reading/learning to do in terms of bottom >>> > brackets. "All riv's take a 100mm with the Sugino XD-2 crank" is what >>> > rivbike says on their $40 cartridge bb page. Then looking at Phil >>> Wood >>> > bb's on the net there are too many options.... >>> > >>> > On Monday, January 21, 2013 12:26:07 PM UTC-8, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > > A square taper BB is $20. Not a big deal. >>> > >>> > > On Jan 21, 10:21 pm, William <tapebu...@gmail.com> wrote: >>> > > > The geometry is not all that hard to figure out. A few mm of >>> length >>> > > change >>> > > > will change your clearance by a few mm. A few degrees of extra >>> lean >>> > > before >>> > > > you scrape. Pedal scrapes during a deep lean can be incredibly >>> > > dangerous. >>> > >>> > > > In my opinion, it is much more important to have the right length >>> for >>> > > > pedalling than it is to have the right length for max turning >>> clearance. >>> > > I >>> > > > ride 172.5mm on all my bikes and when I ride my wife's Betty >>> areound the >>> > > > block, the 165mm arms on there feel like a midget bike to me. >>> Alot of >>> > > the >>> > > > fixie crowd run 165's to promote spinning, but on a geared bike, >>> my >>> > > > instinct tells me that 165s would be a mistake. Narrow width >>> platform >>> > > > pedals, like the grip kings, could make more of a difference than >>> > > crankarm >>> > > > length, if you want to experiment more affordably. >>> > >>> > > > There's a semi-famous Greg Lemond quote about pedal clearance. He >>> said >>> > > "if >>> > > > you think you need to pedal through a corner, you weren't going >>> fast >>> > > enough >>> > > > into the turn". That's from a purely racer perspective. >>> > >>> > > > On Monday, January 21, 2013 11:33:47 AM UTC-8, Dave wrote: >>> > >>> > > > > Hey hey, >>> > > > > Question about crank length and possible change. I'm riding a >>> 59 >>> > > bleriot >>> > > > > protovelo that I bought used with a 175mm shimano 105 cranks on >>> it. >>> > > The >>> > > > > pedal strike I get is kind of avoidable,but still present >>> frequently. >>> > > > > I've tried the mks stream pedals that it came with, along with >>> the >>> > > gr-9 >>> > > > > platform pedals. With toe clips, they strike the ground if >>> moving >>> > > the >>> > > > > bike without my feet in them. Any hard turns are problematic if >>> you >>> > > need >>> > > > > to pedal through. >>> > >>> > > > > How much difference do you think moving to 165mm sugino xd2 >>> cranks >>> > > would >>> > > > > provide? I'm not sure of the Q factor on the shimano cranks, or >>> how >>> > > new >>> > > > > cranks would work with my bottom bracket (not entirely sure >>> what's in >>> > > > > there)....so not sure if any of these questions can be answered. >>> >>
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