I humbly concede that point.  It is possible by luck to end up with both 
good fender line and easy wheel removal with horizontals, and it is 
similarly possible with track ends.  

My main point is that for the everybody else who is not so lucky, the 
universal solution for getting your wheel out from a perfect fender is to 
allow your rear wheel to "drop out".  That's one of the reasons why 
vertical dropouts are the thing to have on a derailer equipped bike, in my 
opinion.  For bikes that cannot have vertical dropouts, you can still 
easily make your rear wheel drop-out with a rear hub with removable bolts.  

What have your "erstwhile Honjos" become?  If they used to be Honjos, did 
they become SKF's?  Or perhaps you meant that they were formerly *yours*, 
not that they were formerly *Honjos*.  haha ;-)

On Monday, November 25, 2013 11:46:09 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> A good fender line is not at all impossible with horizontals. My erstwhile 
> Honjos looked perfect on the Curt and wheel removal was not a problem (32 
> mm tires). But I have to admit that this serendipity was just that -- by 
> chance.
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 11:18 AM, Bill Lindsay <tape...@gmail.com<javascript:>
> > wrote:
>
>> I'm not in the market for a single speed, but if I had a single speed, it 
>> would likely have fenders.  If it had fenders, it would likely have correct 
>> or close to correct fender line.  As such it would be impossible to remove 
>> the rear wheel either rearward with track-like dropouts or forward with 
>> horizontal road type dropouts.  
>>
>> So, if it were me, I would simply run a good, MUSA rear hub that is 
>> bolted on with bolts, not nutted on with nuts.  The offering from Phil and 
>> Paul and White Industries and Chris King all have these allen bolts. 
>>  Remove the two allen bolts entirely and the wheel drops out of the drop 
>> out.  No more problem.  You can have perfect fender line, and can remove 
>> your rear wheel without deflating it.  It will add between 30 and 60 
>> seconds to the total amount of time it takes to fix your flat.   
>>
>> On Monday, November 25, 2013 10:08:08 AM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:
>>
>>> I find fat tires (32mm) run into the chainstay bridge on my other fixed 
>>> gear, so I prefer the track ends.
>>> I had SKS fenders with the QRs on the rear as well as the fork. To 
>>> change the wheel, I just popped the rear stays out of the quick releases to 
>>> free up the fenders. 
>>>
>>> Philip
>>> www.biketinker.com<http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.biketinker.com&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNHQ7rECiOZi3g57gDuuurKPduxuag>
>>>  
>>>
>>> On Monday, November 25, 2013 8:05:42 AM UTC-8, Pudge wrote:
>>>>
>>>>  One solution for the tire removal issue is to use flat wooden 
>>>> fenders, which bend very easily outward away from the tire, allowing easy 
>>>> removal.  Of course, there are always trade-offs – such fenders aren’t as 
>>>> functional as a good plastic or metal curved fender, but in non-downpours, 
>>>> and with a mudflap, they’re not bad.
>>>>
>>>>  
>>>>  
>>>>
>>>>  -- 
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>
>
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