It is true that too much grip is a bad thing.  There is a balance in the
middle somewhere.  Since the tracks you are making are based off of the
idea I actually built and used on one of my tanks I can lend some insight
into them.  The pics in the article are of my Sturmtiger.  My original
thoughts for the tracks were very similar to yours (ie: using blocks like
that between the chains).  I didn't do it for simplicity sake and cost.  I
was trying to make my tracks on the cheap.  I have since changed to stiffer
steel 60 pitch tabletop chain tracks (Rexnord 1864K4.5
http://www.rexnord.com/rexnord_web_media_prod/pdfs/1864%20Series%20TableTop%20Chain%20Product%20Portfolio.pdf
). I did this to minimize the side to side flexing of my original design
you have modified.  The design you are using may work for your application,
but there are some things to take into consideration.  The problems I had
with the tracks was keeping them on the sprockets.  I was using a free
wheeling set of toothed sprocket on the front and a set of toothed drive
sprockets on the rear.  With enough tension, the tracks will stay on the
sprockets well enough.  My issue was that tension.  The more tension I put
on them, the more drive line losses I got (ie: the motors had to work too
hard).  I also had a full suspension on my tank.  As the tension increases
it would compress my suspension and therefore cause it not to work as
intended.  With a fixed suspension, that issue would go away.  I'm assuming
since it's a mower that it won't have a suspension on it.  You will at a
bare minimum want to add guide teeth to your tracks to keep the tracks
running straight through your road wheels and make sure the tracks stay
under the wheels.  Without guide teeth, your tracks could run out from
under the road wheels doing neutral turns.  You could also add outer guides
to the drive and idler sprockets at the front and rear of the mower to aid
in keeping the tracks on the sprockets.  If I were doing what you are
doing, that's what I would do so I could keep the track tension on the
looser side to accommodate sucking up rocks or twigs into the tracks.

I haven't abandoned my track idea, but the prefab Rexnord tracks were about
$100 when I found them on Ebay.  Kinda got lucky I think with those.  That
$100 was well spent saving me time and frustration of building my own.  I
may revisit my idea and fix the issues with it one day, but I haven't
really had much time to devote to tanks in the last year or so.

Derek
T065
SV016

On Fri, Feb 6, 2015 at 4:55 PM, Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre <
j-maxh...@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Probably some experienced guys would say that too much grip mean
> difficulties to turn neutral on grass and drawn to much amp. to your motors.
>
> In second I would say that some guides thooths would probably work better
> even if it's seemmed to work. Your super traction will probably trow off
> your track at the first turn...
>
> I'm not experienced a lot but i got a 80% tank hull that will maybe
> running this weeckend, but a lot of guys reduce their grip with flat tracks
> even let some screws heads out to run better on all
>
> conditions..
>
> Out of that good work and make lots of testing cause tracks are cool but
> hard to master!!!
>
>
> Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre
>
> ------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2015 12:00:56 -0800
> From: jupd...@gmail.com
> To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [TANKS] New Track Idea
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> My name is Josh and I am a robotics engineer. I do a lot of medical
> robotics during the day and mess around with RC stuff for fun. I was
> thinking about building a RC lawn mower because I figured it would be more
> fun to build the robot then mow my lawn. Plus sitting in the shade with a
> beer while I drive a RC lawn mower around the yard sounds great. Anyway,
> stumbled onto this group when looking at the track options. This page was
> really helpful http://www.rctankcombat.com/articles/track-systems/ and I
> got an idea that I wanted to see what people thought of it.
>
> I really liked the chain and bolt track idea. Using standard roller chain
> has a lot of advantages. Lots of sizes, strong, standard drive parts. But I
> did not like how all the load was on the chain and not the middle tread.
> Seems like you might not get much grip in some situations. So I started
> toying around with the idea of a custom tread, that you mounted to the
> roller chain. You could have various sizes, for different chain. Maybe even
> have different tread profiles to pick from. I 3d printed some parts to make
> prototypes and I ordered the materials to cast about 50-100 parts. I
> figured I would see what you guys thought. Maybe pick your brains. The
> final part would probably be injection molded. I do this kind of stuff at
> work so I have some contacts.
>
> Any comments welcome. The red ones match #35 chain and are 3" wide, the
> black match #40 chain and are 4" wide, and the white match #50 chain and
> are 5" wide. Maybe I am just missing something obvious since I have never
> build a tracked vehicle.
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F-AICRT5vKw/VNUcpex0dwI/AAAAAAAABXQ/Agf-dmWoKGw/s1600/IMG_1531.JPG>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0E-GpLjPuIo/VNUcwIC17YI/AAAAAAAABXY/ygOh9-3_2dY/s1600/IMG_1533.JPG>
> <https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5aXoysSZli0/VNUcx3wP84I/AAAAAAAABXg/WjexKDXY3mg/s1600/IMG_1534.JPG>
>
>
> <https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-04dw5Sw0qPw/VNUdIw681lI/AAAAAAAABX4/sF6423Zs5W4/s1600/photo%2B1%2B%281%29.JPG>
> <https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-e4scRdxGU1w/VNUdABETwAI/AAAAAAAABXw/YMSAPuhD9Kk/s1600/IMG_1532.JPG>
> <https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OOTIRKRmiLY/VNUc2u_MMbI/AAAAAAAABXo/PKV_lg2H1wU/s1600/photo%2B3%2B%281%29.JPG>
>
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