I've had butt splices fail, due to a ratchet release type crimper that didn't pinch the wires tight enough. I now use a good old Klein crimper that puts a big indent on one side. The problem with this however, is that it damages the built in insulation. My favorite butt splice is uninsulated, and then slide adhesive shrink wrap up tubing up over the connection after. We use these on submersible pumps that are 100 ft under water with no issues.

R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760

On 6/25/2014 11:43 AM, Nathan Charles wrote:
Hi All,

Has anybody had success with these butt splices with the adhesive shrink tubing? http://www.mcmaster.com/#butt-splices/=skb9qs

Best,



On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 1:12 PM, August Goers <aug...@luminalt.com <mailto:aug...@luminalt.com>> wrote:

    Hi All -

    We have been using outdoor Ideal brand wire nuts (the blue ones packed
    with waterproof gel/grease) for all of our residential DC side splices
    (typically #10 wire) for 10 years now and have never had a single
    problem.
    If the installers properly strip the conductors and follow the
    instructions I feel that these wire nuts make very robust
    connections. We
    always do a good pull test after twisting the wire nut on. I would
    never
    recommend standard wire nuts without the grease and have seen
    these fail
    numerous times during inspections of systems installed by others.
    Insulated terminal blocks also work well but don't have that nice
    waterproof grease in them to help avoid moisture issues. You can
    wrap them
    with a good splicing tape to help keep moisture out but the cost
    for these
    connections is significantly higher than wire nuts:

    http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/EMDCI/Home/Products/Catalog/~?
    N=5433135&rt=c3
    
<http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/EMDCI/Home/Products/Catalog/%7E?%0AN=5433135&rt=c3>

    Normally I error on the robust conservative side of the installation
    spectrum but in this case it sounds like I may not.

    Just my $0.02

    Best, August


    -----Original Message-----
    From: RE-wrenches
    [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
    <mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org>] On
    Behalf Of William Miller
    Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 8:40 AM
    To: RE-wrenches
    Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] AFCI disturbances.

    Richard:

    Possibly. I think I prefer din mount connector blocks. However, if
    a wire
    nut can arc internally a connector block might also. I am still
    wondering
    about this concept.

    William

    Miller Solar

    > On Jun 25, 2014, at 6:09 AM, richard.l.rat...@valley.net
    <mailto:richard.l.rat...@valley.net> (Richard L
    Ratico) wrote:
    >
    > William,
    > Would UL listed crimp sleeves be an acceptable substitute where you
    > would otherwise use wirenuts?
    >
    > Dick Ratico
    > Solarwind Electric
    >
    >
    > --- You wrote:
    > Bob-O:
    >
    >
    >
    > When you say verboten, what does that mean?  Not kosher?
     Frowned upon?
    > Disallowed by law???
    >
    >
    >
    > I am quite curious about this subject.  Here is what I have
    learned so
    far:
    >
    >
    >
    > This is a unique case where we are replacing 3 dead SMA U series
    > inverters with 2 US series inverters.  The U series seem to all be
    > dying at about 12 to 14 years of age.  We have about a dozen of
    these
    > to swap on our calendar and expect more.  It may be that to do this
    > right requires that we pull new wire from the arrays.  This
    makes the
    job a lot more expensive.
    >
    >
    >
    > We have never used a wire nut on a PV lead until this project.  It's
    > not that we disapprove of wire nuts in general, it is because we
    know
    > that if we were to use them regularly we would eventually have
    failures
    and call backs.
    > We allow only one splice in a PV lead: between the cable provided by
    > the manufacturer of the module and a bulkhead mounted MC4 connector
    > direct to THWN in conduit
    >
    (http://millersolar.com/MillerSolar/practices/PV_wiring/PV_Cable_wirin
    > g/_PV_
    > Cable_Wiring.html).
    >
    >
    >
    > We checked the manufacturer's listing and the wire nuts are
    rated for
    > 600 volts.  We do use wire nuts on AC circuits, such as switch and
    > receptacle circuits in a power room.
    >
    >
    >
    > A tech at SMA told me that wire nuts "arc internally to the spring"
    > causing the AFCI faults.  I am not aware of any process of "internal
    > arcing."  To me, arcing means, as per the dictionary definition: "a
    > luminous bridge formed in a gap between two electrodes."  The same
    > tech told me to solder the leads and apply shrink tubing.  I don't
    > believe this is an approved method.  By the way, we have spliced
    leads
    > on both US series inverters and only one is exhibiting AFCI
    disturbances.
    >
    >
    >
    > I do favor mounted terminal blocks, either screw or tubular type. I
    > need to check if the Amp model we stock are 600 volt rated.
    >
    >
    >
    > I was told by another representative from SMA that on a ground-mount
    > system it is legal to disable the AFCI protection.
    >
    >
    >
    > I will be troubleshooting this job tomorrow and I will let you all
    > know what I learn.
    >
    >
    >
    > William Miller
    > --- end of quote ---
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--
Nathan Charles
Engineer
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional #042013-20
Paradise Energy Solutions
(717) 283-2021 direct


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