I agree, the pre insulated splices are okay for if you need an extension in a 
box, that stays dry, and the wire isn't pushed up against something. Otherwise 
apply separate heat shrink after the splice. Just don't forget to slip it on 
the wire before splicing!

I kind of like the idea of a properly torqued set screw splice with insulated 
heatshrink. There's got to be a direct bury kit available. 

Brian

> On Jun 25, 2014, at 2:01 PM, Ray Walters <r...@solarray.com> wrote:
> 
> I've had butt splices fail, due to a ratchet release type crimper that didn't 
> pinch the wires tight enough. 
> I now use a good old Klein crimper that puts a big indent on one side.  The 
> problem with this however, is that it damages the built in insulation.  My 
> favorite butt splice is uninsulated, and then slide adhesive shrink wrap up 
> tubing up over the connection after.  We use these on submersible pumps that 
> are 100 ft under water with no issues.
> R.Ray Walters
> CTO, Solarray, Inc
> Nabcep Certified PV Installer, 
> Licensed Master Electrician
> Solar Design Engineer
> 303 505-8760
> On 6/25/2014 11:43 AM, Nathan Charles wrote:
>> Hi All,
>> 
>> Has anybody had success with these butt splices with the adhesive shrink 
>> tubing?  http://www.mcmaster.com/#butt-splices/=skb9qs
>> 
>> Best,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 1:12 PM, August Goers <aug...@luminalt.com> wrote:
>>> Hi All -
>>> 
>>> We have been using outdoor Ideal brand wire nuts (the blue ones packed
>>> with waterproof gel/grease) for all of our residential DC side splices
>>> (typically #10 wire) for 10 years now and have never had a single problem.
>>> If the installers properly strip the conductors and follow the
>>> instructions I feel that these wire nuts make very robust connections. We
>>> always do a good pull test after twisting the wire nut on. I would never
>>> recommend standard wire nuts without the grease and have seen these fail
>>> numerous times during inspections of systems installed by others.
>>> Insulated terminal blocks also work well but don't have that nice
>>> waterproof grease in them to help avoid moisture issues. You can wrap them
>>> with a good splicing tape to help keep moisture out but the cost for these
>>> connections is significantly higher than wire nuts:
>>> 
>>> http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/EMDCI/Home/Products/Catalog/~?
>>> N=5433135&rt=c3
>>> 
>>> Normally I error on the robust conservative side of the installation
>>> spectrum but in this case it sounds like I may not.
>>> 
>>> Just my $0.02
>>> 
>>> Best, August
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On
>>> Behalf Of William Miller
>>> Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 8:40 AM
>>> To: RE-wrenches
>>> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] AFCI disturbances.
>>> 
>>> Richard:
>>> 
>>> Possibly. I think I prefer din mount connector blocks. However, if a wire
>>> nut can arc internally a connector block might also. I am             still 
>>> wondering
>>> about this concept.
>>> 
>>> William
>>> 
>>> Miller Solar
>>> 
>>> > On Jun 25, 2014, at 6:09 AM, richard.l.rat...@valley.net (Richard L
>>> Ratico) wrote:
>>> >
>>> > William,
>>> > Would UL listed crimp sleeves be an acceptable substitute where you
>>> > would otherwise use wirenuts?
>>> >
>>> > Dick Ratico
>>> > Solarwind Electric
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > --- You wrote:
>>> > Bob-O:
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > When you say verboten, what does that mean?  Not kosher?  Frowned upon?
>>> > Disallowed by law???
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > I am quite curious about this subject.  Here is what I have learned so
>>> far:
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > This is a unique case where we are replacing 3 dead SMA U series
>>> > inverters with 2 US series inverters.  The U series seem to all be
>>> > dying at about 12 to 14 years of age.  We have about a dozen of these
>>> > to swap on our calendar and expect more.  It may be that to do this
>>> > right requires that we pull new wire from the arrays.  This makes the
>>> job a lot more expensive.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > We have never used a wire nut on a PV lead until this project.  It's
>>> > not that we disapprove of wire nuts in general, it is because we know
>>> > that if we were to use them regularly we would eventually have failures
>>> and call backs.
>>> > We allow only one splice in a PV lead: between the cable provided by
>>> > the manufacturer of the module and a bulkhead mounted             MC4 
>>> > connector
>>> > direct to THWN in conduit
>>> > (http://millersolar.com/MillerSolar/practices/PV_wiring/PV_Cable_wirin
>>> > g/_PV_
>>> > Cable_Wiring.html).
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > We checked the manufacturer's listing and the wire nuts are rated for
>>> > 600 volts.  We do use wire nuts on AC circuits, such as switch and
>>> > receptacle circuits in a power room.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > A tech at SMA told me that wire nuts "arc internally to the spring"
>>> > causing the AFCI faults.  I am not aware of any process of "internal
>>> > arcing."  To me, arcing means, as per the dictionary definition: "a
>>> > luminous bridge formed in a gap between two electrodes."  The same
>>> > tech told me to solder the leads and apply shrink tubing.  I don't
>>> > believe this is an approved method.  By the way, we have spliced leads
>>> > on both US series inverters and only one is exhibiting AFCI
>>> disturbances.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > I do favor mounted terminal blocks, either screw or tubular type. I
>>> > need to check if the Amp model we stock are 600 volt rated.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > I was told by another representative from SMA that on a ground-mount
>>> > system it is legal to disable the AFCI protection.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > I will be troubleshooting this job tomorrow and I will let you all
>>> > know what I learn.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > William Miller
>>> > --- end of quote ---
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>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Nathan Charles
>> Engineer
>> NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional #042013-20
>> Paradise Energy Solutions
>> (717) 283-2021 direct
>> 
>> 
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