I had a similar experience: I had a couple of deep cycle batteries in an
outdoor steel enclosure that I would charge periodically by connecting a
standard automotive charger. At times I would forget it was connected, so
eventually the batteries were cooked. After some research on the web, I
settled on an IOTA DLS-15 power supply with an IQ4 smart charge controller.
It is connected full time to the (new) batteries, and I only have to add
water every couple of months. I have not noted any kind of noise generated
by the charger. This setup works very well for me.

Richard, N7TGB


  -----Original Message-----
  From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dave Schmidt
  Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 9:26 AM
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup



  I have to agree with Dave. Using the proper charger or power supply for
keeping the batts up.  I have my batteries housed in a stainless steel
enclosure that is anchored into concrete outside my ham shack. I learned the
hard way about using the proper charger... I just tapped into my repeaters
25amp power supply to keep the batteries charged till I could make a
charging circuit ... ahhhh, big mistake. That charging circuit  - oops, I
forgot... about a month of operation,  I was working around the tower and
smelled what smelled like battery acid. Sure enough, I cooked both flooded
lead acid batteries and they were fuming acid vapor. Lucky the box is a
comercial built ss box.

  Now, after that incident, I have been using a marine (boat) "smart
charger" which automatically determines wether to charge or float. Since
battery chargers are, ummm, quite noisy and not all that nice on batteries
due to most of them only using a half wave recifier ( AC is not nice on
batteries ). I added a 25A bridge rectifier and added extra filtering which
is just a big Motorola mobile power filter block from the Micor dayz. It is
also isolated using some BIG diodes - like Dave's, the threaded case type
diodes which is bolted to a heatsink.

  The system is running well in this configuration. If using flooded type
batteries, do a monthly check on acid levels !   I recomend AGM batteries
( Absorbed Glass Mat ) or if that is a little pricy, get marine deep cycle
batteries - do not use automotive batteries unless you just absolutely half
to.

  Dave / N9NLU
  www.kmcg.org







  On 1/9/07, ve7ltd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
    I have had good luck using a pair of diodes to isolate a power supply
    from a charging circuit. I essentially have a Statpower 10amp battery
    charger (specifically designed for the flooded cells I am using). The
    batteries float on the charger voltage when the AC power is available.
    The battery positive lead then feeds through a diode and joins
    the "positive power bus" of my repeaters. Using a proper charger is the
    most important part so you dont boil off the electrolyte in your
    batteries.

    The positive power bus is fed from a large GE power supply. The
    positive lead from the power supply feeds through a diode to feed the
    power bus.

    The idea of using a diodes is to keep the higher voltage of the power
    supply from passing current into the batteries when AC is available,
    and vice versa when AC is off.

    However, if you are using a high power PA or your repeater draws more
    than about 20 AMPs on TX, you have to be careful of your choices of
    diode. I use large feedthrough diodes, mounted on large heatsinks, but
    on lower current draw you could get away with using a smaller bridge
    rectifier mounted to an unpainted metal piece in your repeater cabinet
    with some heatsink compound.

    Dave Cameron
    VE7LTD

    --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "wm5c" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
    wrote:
    >
    > Hi,
    >
    > New member here. Thanks for allowing me to join.
    > Our club has acquired some large lead-acid 12v batteries we would
    like
    > to use to back up our repeater in emergency situations. Does anyone
    > know of a good (but simple and inexpensive [we are a very small group
    > in a very small town]) circuit to accomplish this? Any input would
    be
    > appreciated.
    >
    > Danny WM5C
    > Heart Of Texas Ham Operators Group (HOTHOG)
    > Brady, TX
    > www.hothog.org
    >






  

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