> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Dear Friends, > Has anyone tuned a Mitrek receiver using the manual?
Yes... > I was wondering if this can be done using a standard uA meter? Yes, but you won't see the same results if you don't use a movement in similar calibration to the proper motorhead test set. Rather than use a current meter... I sometimes use a Fluke Multi-Meter set on the millivolt scale. Keeping in mind the mV scales on the various multi-meters are different. > I have come to the measurements at point 6 and cannot get > a reading. Some of the metering point changes are very, very small peaks and dips. It's very smart money to set all the coil height adjustments to the manual chart values shown ever time you try to realign the receiver. Sometimes a tweak adjustment works but an assumed realignment by repeaking and dipping the adjustments from their last aligned positions won't work... ie you'll shoot yourself in the foot trying to make it all work out. > Maybe doing something wrong. Start with the Service Manual adjustment (coil) presets per the supplied charts for every stage. Use the original 50uA test set or something very, very similar... else use the milli-volt scale of a quality digital multi-meter. > I have overall netted a great increase in sensitivity from what > I had before. This is a high split receiver so I am tuning > right down to the bottom on the presets. As long as you haven't reached the bottom out location without reaching the desired peak/dip point you're probably ok. If we're talking about the injection chain of the channel element stages you can "lower" their operational range by changing some of the minor part values (adding some capacitance in certain areas). Being at the end of the front end pre-selector travel is another whole kettle of fish. > Any help? Do I need to get the Motorola test set? Not really... I have them here and actually prefer using my Fluke Multi-Meter in the mV position. > Is it just a meter and some switches? > Thanks, Collin It is a special 50uA meter movement... along with some supporting interface selector switch, a resistor or two, a dpdt type polarity switch and sometimes a cap or two... depending on which metering box you have. Don't waste your time with trying to find an original over priced metering box. Buy a really nice Fluke Multi-meter, use it on the mV range and never look back. Once you get used to using a Fluke Multi-Meter... you'll wonder how you ever used any other meter to get things done. The diode test function included in most Fluke meters is an honest trouble shooting miracle. cheers, s.
