Thanks Mike. I'll file that trick away for future use!
Mike WM4B _____ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mike Morris WA6ILQ Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 7:10 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: desense question At 02:22 PM 05/04/09, you wrote: Mike, I assume the purpose of the paint can is to act as a Faraday cage? Yep. Cheap coax is lossy and leaky. Is it attached to the common-point ground system or left freestanding? If I remember the situation (it's been over 15 years since I shot the photo) it was freestanding (but the DC continuity went from the shield of coax #1 through the connector to the paint can lid to the connector #2). Of course it also went through the coax braid. The can was just in the coax line from the exciter to the PA deck. Nothing fancy, just two superflex jumpers and the attenuator can. 73, Mike WM4B From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [ <mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com> mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mike Morris WA6ILQ Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 5:19 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: desense question At 06:07 AM 05/04/09, you wrote: > >> The amp is a UHF PA off a mobile rig, and I needed about > >> 50 feet of RG58U to attenuate the signal from the repeater > >> into the amp module. > > > > Not good, probably better to bypass (not use) the 15 watt > > amplifier and drive the external amp direct from the exciter. > > Not a thing wrong with using a length of coax as an attenuator if it's >done right. Have used this technique often when a little attenuation is >needed. > >Al, K9SI Somewhere I've got a couple of photos of attenuators made from a paint can with coil of coax inside it. A pair of hooded SO239s on the lid and you're done. One is of a 5 gallon paint can, the other of a 1 gallon. Mike
