No, I'm defininitely not a proponent of snake oil! A scratch creates an optical distortion that makes it hard for a laser pickup to read through to the reflective surface underneath.
The repair kit simply consists of buffing compound, like very fine sandpaper. It literally buffs or erodes away the scratched layer to create a smooth surface so that the laser can properly reflect off the reflective surface. It isn't just some magical goo that you pour on to the CD and hey presto! it's readable. You have to work the hell out of the thing, literally buffing the surface down. You're pushing down as hard as you can and moving your finger as fast as you can to make it work. In fact the deep scratch repair technique uses 2600 grit sandpaper (!), then an application of the buffing compound and some really vigourous buffing. Yes, it does remove scratches. But it's not easy, you have to really work at it. I was skeptical myself, but it *does* work. --- Skunk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mr Lanctot accidentally on the email list Wrote: > > > > > > I ripped a lot of beat up CDs over the weekend and > I > > bought a "CD repair" kit for the problematic ones. > > > > I was amazed at how well it worked. It didn't seem > to > > do anything visible but I went from 2-3 > unrecoverable > > errors to a bit-perfect rip confirmed with > > AccurateRip! And on more than one CD too. > > > > However if I was doing this to more than a > half-dozen > > I'd definitely go for the little machine Radio > Shack > > has to do this ($30 CDN). I went for the cheap > manual > > kit for $7 CDN. It's a buffing compound and it's > far > > too labour-intensive if you had to repair dozens > of > > CDs. > > > > You have to really work it in very hard and even > one > > makes your fingers and wrist pretty sore. > > > > > > I almost posted for advice on this before. It's a > whole interesting > topic in and of itself. So it's good to know that > the clean cd's RIP > more accurately, which makes complete common sense. > > However if I copy my CD's to Black CD-R and paint > the edges with > marker, and add a disc stabilizer, and hit it with a > static gun, and > bevel the edges with a $500 bevel cutting machine- > will it RIP > _better_? > > I think not. Thus- snakeoil. Perhaps they make it > sound better by > avoiding c2 corrections? I've also read that people > think some cd's can > sound more 'jittery' than others. That's just what I > read :) > > Surely there's a theory in the making there > somewhere? > > > -- > Skunk > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Skunk's Profile: > http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=2685 > View this thread: > http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=20321 > > _______________________________________________ > ripping mailing list > [email protected] > http://lists.slimdevices.com/lists/listinfo/ripping > __________________________________________________________ Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca _______________________________________________ ripping mailing list [email protected] http://lists.slimdevices.com/lists/listinfo/ripping
