No they don't clear chips as they penetrate. They are much less likely to split the wood or strip out compared to drywall screws. Plus they have a smooth shank which allows them to slip and draw the work together. Drywall screws are threaded all the way up and will typically lock up and strip when joining two pieces of wood. They work in drywall because the technique used for attaching drywall with a drywall "screwgun" pushes it up against the studs or joists and the threads can tear through the soft paper and gypsum.
If you have your heart set on drilling holes for wood applications, then you really need to drill a pilot hole for the threads and a clearance hole in the part you are attaching, and of course, the holes need to be aligned. So two different size holes to drill before you even touch the screw. BTW, sheet metal screws are a much better choice than drywall screws if you are going to this much trouble, because drywall screws are hard and brittle and the easily snap. Also, if you are worried about splitting the wood, use a panhead screw rather than a flat or bugle (drywall) head. The latter tend to act like wedges. Charles Weston --- On Fri, 8/27/10, Jim and Cheryl Martin <[email protected]> wrote: From: Jim and Cheryl Martin <[email protected]> Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} Power Tools To: [email protected] Date: Friday, August 27, 2010, 11:10 PM Hi Charles: I'm always up for new tricks, but wary of spliting wood, especially near the ends of boards, even with the thin-shanked drywall screws. Do the auger point screws clear the material as they penetrate the wood? Jim --- On Sat, 8/28/10, Charles Weston <[email protected]> wrote: From: Charles Weston <[email protected]> Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} Power Tools To: [email protected] Received: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 3:51 AM Use a cordless drill and auger point screws--no switching of bit required. Charles Weston --- On Fri, 8/27/10, David Heine <[email protected]> wrote: From: David Heine <[email protected]> Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} Power Tools To: [email protected] Date: Friday, August 27, 2010, 10:02 PM The quick-connect type drills, etc. do save time, but using two drills/drivers is faster. Actually for driving screws in benchwork type applications, I normally use a cordless impact driver, which I think works better in most applications. And the drill bit is in a cordless drill. I don't use corded drills that much anymore; it has to be some heavy extensive drilling which usually means using my 1/2" hammer drill. Remember, tools are like trains, you can't have too many. Dave Heine Easton, PA -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jim and Cheryl Martin Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 6:14 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Power Tools I can't find the name for the device on the box, but one of the nicest things I've done for myself is an accessory drill chuck/bit driver for my power drill. Attach the hand-tightened chuck into your existing drill chuck, and use it for drilling your pilot holes. The real party piece is a hollow bit driver that fits over the top of the additional chuck and drill bit, using a ball-indent to hold it in place. Snapping the bit driver on and off is a lot faster than alternating between two separate drills. Great for benchwork when you're alternating back and forth between drilling pilot holes and driving screws. Hope this description isn't too confusing. Jim --- On Thu, 8/26/10, Paul Vaughn <[email protected]> wrote: From: Paul Vaughn <[email protected]> Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Power Tools To: [email protected] Received: Thursday, August 26, 2010, 2:43 AM The handiest power tool for doing screws is a 3/8 reversable drill motor with screwdriver bits. Paul --- On Wed, 8/25/10, Andrew_Malette <[email protected]> wrote: From: Andrew_Malette <[email protected]> Subject: {S-Scale List} Power Tools To: [email protected] Date: Wednesday, August 25, 2010, 5:30 PM Bob Werre wrote... "During the early construction, our eldest member came over to help. He brought over sheet rock screws and screw gun while I continured with drilling pilot holes, using soap and then hand screwing everything with #8 or #10 screws. I recommend any type of power equipment you can afford. Bob Werre BobWphoto.com" Ah yes, the electric screwdriver. Man's greatest invention since beer. Next is the roofing nailer. Second last roof I did, I used one. Last one I did was on the cottage up north, way smaller. The fore arm hurt for a couple of days. I use anything power that I can beg and borrow when I am building anything, especially benchwork. I do have a healthy fear of power tools, even model table saws and Dremel motor tools. Just a split second of mistiming and my piano playing/modelling days are over. cheers, eh? Andy Malette ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! 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