If you can find them they actually make a combination bit that does both the clearance and pilot holes and has a countersink head.
I have a couple lying around, probably from Home Depot or Lowes, or possibly a real hardware store. Carey Carey Probst Member, M.I.T. Educational Council Perm: [email protected] A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. On 8/28/2010 9:29 AM, Charles Weston wrote: > > No they don't clear chips as they penetrate. They are much less > likely to split the wood or strip out compared to drywall screws. > Plus they have a smooth shank which allows them to slip and draw the > work together. Drywall screws are threaded all the way up and will > typically lock up and strip when joining two pieces of wood. They > work in drywall because the technique used for attaching drywall with > a drywall "screwgun" pushes it up against the studs or joists and the > threads can tear through the soft paper and gypsum. > > If you have your heart set on drilling holes for wood applications, > then you really need to drill a pilot hole for the threads and a > clearance hole in the part you are attaching, and of course, the holes > need to be aligned. So two different size holes to drill before you > even touch the screw. BTW, sheet metal screws are a much better > choice than drywall screws if you are going to this much trouble, > because drywall screws are hard and brittle and the easily snap. > > Also, if you are worried about splitting the wood, use a panhead screw > rather than a flat or bugle (drywall) head. The latter tend to act > like wedges. > > Charles Weston > > --- On Fri, 8/27/10, Jim and Cheryl Martin <[email protected] > <mailto:farnhamhouse%40ymail.com>> wrote: > > From: Jim and Cheryl Martin <[email protected] > <mailto:farnhamhouse%40ymail.com>> > Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} Power Tools > To: [email protected] <mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com> > Date: Friday, August 27, 2010, 11:10 PM > > > > Hi Charles: > > > > I'm always up for new tricks, but wary of spliting wood, especially > near the ends of boards, even with the thin-shanked drywall screws. > Do the auger point screws clear the material as they penetrate the wood? > > > > Jim > > --- On Sat, 8/28/10, Charles Weston <[email protected] > <mailto:rotary-oy%40sbcglobal.net>> wrote: > > From: Charles Weston <[email protected] > <mailto:rotary-oy%40sbcglobal.net>> > > Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} Power Tools > > To: [email protected] <mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com> > > Received: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 3:51 AM > > > > Use a cordless drill and auger point screws--no switching of bit required. > > Charles Weston > > --- On Fri, 8/27/10, David Heine <[email protected] > <mailto:davesn3%40rcn.com>> wrote: > > From: David Heine <[email protected] <mailto:davesn3%40rcn.com>> > > Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} Power Tools > > To: [email protected] <mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com> > > Date: Friday, August 27, 2010, 10:02 PM > > > > The quick-connect type drills, etc. do save time, but using two > drills/drivers is faster. Actually for driving screws in benchwork > type applications, I normally use a cordless impact driver, which I > think works better in most applications. And the drill bit is in a > cordless drill. I don't use corded drills that much anymore; it has to > be some heavy extensive drilling which usually means using my 1/2" > hammer drill. > > Remember, tools are like trains, you can't have too many. > > Dave Heine > > Easton, PA > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [email protected] <mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com> > [mailto:[email protected] <mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com>] On > Behalf Of Jim and Cheryl Martin > > Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 6:14 PM > > To: [email protected] <mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com> > > Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Power Tools > > I can't find the name for the device on the box, but one of the nicest > things I've done for myself is an accessory drill chuck/bit driver for > my power drill. Attach the hand-tightened chuck into your existing > drill chuck, and use it for drilling your pilot holes. The real party > piece is a hollow bit driver that fits over the top of the additional > chuck and drill bit, using a ball-indent to hold it in place. Snapping > the bit driver on and off is a lot faster than alternating between two > separate drills. Great for benchwork when you're alternating back and > forth between drilling pilot holes and driving screws. > > Hope this description isn't too confusing. > > Jim > > --- On Thu, 8/26/10, Paul Vaughn <[email protected] > <mailto:pv_sn3%40yahoo.com>> wrote: > > From: Paul Vaughn <[email protected] <mailto:pv_sn3%40yahoo.com>> > > Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Power Tools > > To: [email protected] <mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com> > > Received: Thursday, August 26, 2010, 2:43 AM > > The handiest power tool for doing screws is a 3/8 reversable drill > motor with screwdriver bits. > > Paul > > --- On Wed, 8/25/10, Andrew_Malette <[email protected] > <mailto:andym%40mlwservices.ca>> wrote: > > From: Andrew_Malette <[email protected] > <mailto:andym%40mlwservices.ca>> > > Subject: {S-Scale List} Power Tools > > To: [email protected] <mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com> > > Date: Wednesday, August 25, 2010, 5:30 PM > > Bob Werre wrote... > > "During the early construction, our eldest member came over > > to help. He brought over sheet rock screws and screw gun while I > > continured with drilling pilot holes, using soap and then hand screwing > > everything with #8 or #10 screws. I recommend any type of power > > equipment you can afford. > > Bob Werre > > BobWphoto.com" > > Ah yes, the electric screwdriver. Man's greatest invention since beer. > > Next is the roofing nailer. Second last roof I did, I used one. Last > one I > > did was on the cottage up north, way smaller. The fore arm hurt for a > > couple of days. > > I use anything power that I can beg and borrow when I am building > anything, > > especially benchwork. I do have a healthy fear of power tools, even model > > table saws and Dremel motor tools. Just a split second of mistiming > and my > > piano playing/modelling days are over. > > cheers, eh? > > Andy Malette > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! 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