Jace,

Kaslo changed from a stainless type material to a brass.  My PS-1 boxcar 
had the stainless and you could only bend the material once and even 
adjustments were problematic.  I've got my boxcar about 2/3 finished but 
have never tried to get replacement ladders--I messed up two early on.  
I don't know what type material the grain hopper had--very neat car, but 
I don't need anymore difficult kits to build either.

When it comes to CDS dry transfers.  They will vary considerably in the 
ease and if all the lettering transfers.  I have made up a dozen or so 
cars with good success until I started lettering a boxcar for the SOO 
line recently.  I did heat the sheet slightly, but very little of the 
lettering transferred on the first try.  I had to go back several times 
until I literally wore the backing through.  That little sheet wouldn't 
give up it's lettering and neither would I stop trying.  Actually I 
think it won!  wasn't very happy.

Bob Werre
PhotoTraxx
>
>
> I haven't bought any of those kits, although I did buy one of their 
> PRR cabooses (which I shall consult Peter V's website when I 
> finallyget around to building it) and was impressed with all the nice 
> etched brass parts.Might I suggest the bending tool MicroMark sells 
> for just this kind of etch? Our British friends use that construction 
> quite a bit for their kits. Generally speaking, when etched brass 
> parts are soldered together they gain considerable strength from the 
> soldering.
> As to the CDS lettering, there is a learning curve in learning how to 
> apply them (ask me how I know), but when one is used to themthey can 
> come out quite well. Since there has been no new production for a 
> while (and probably the sets included with the hoppersare even older, 
> bought when the kits were produced), some other modelers recommend 
> warming the set before applying to revivethe wax vehicle. And, unlike 
> normal decal lettering, they go on a matte finish rather than a 
> glossy. And be sure to set them by rubbingover them after application 
> before overspraying a protective coating.
>
> Jace Kahn
>



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