I wasn't aware of that--one of the fellows in the Plains/Prairies group was working on a PS-1 kit on one ofthe few nights I've been able to attend a session, and Ken Zieska pointed out that no one else has yet offeredso basic a prototype (one of the things I hope Lionel will do if they take new and more accurate S scale seriously,as their O scale ones are very nice).Stainless steel may have its uses, but I suppose the only means of attachment is ACC, and that would be a problemfor me.
Jace Kahn General Manager Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co. > To: [email protected] > From: [email protected] > Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2011 14:39:34 -0600 > Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} RE: Kaslo Shops Cylindrical Covered Hoppers - > lessons learnt from 1st kit building attempt > > Jace, > > Kaslo changed from a stainless type material to a brass. My PS-1 boxcar > had the stainless and you could only bend the material once and even > adjustments were problematic. I've got my boxcar about 2/3 finished but > have never tried to get replacement ladders--I messed up two early on. > I don't know what type material the grain hopper had--very neat car, but > I don't need anymore difficult kits to build either. > > When it comes to CDS dry transfers. They will vary considerably in the > ease and if all the lettering transfers. I have made up a dozen or so > cars with good success until I started lettering a boxcar for the SOO > line recently. I did heat the sheet slightly, but very little of the > lettering transferred on the first try. I had to go back several times > until I literally wore the backing through. That little sheet wouldn't > give up it's lettering and neither would I stop trying. Actually I > think it won! wasn't very happy. > > Bob Werre > PhotoTraxx > > > > > > I haven't bought any of those kits, although I did buy one of their > > PRR cabooses (which I shall consult Peter V's website when I > > finallyget around to building it) and was impressed with all the nice > > etched brass parts.Might I suggest the bending tool MicroMark sells > > for just this kind of etch? Our British friends use that construction > > quite a bit for their kits. Generally speaking, when etched brass > > parts are soldered together they gain considerable strength from the > > soldering. > > As to the CDS lettering, there is a learning curve in learning how to > > apply them (ask me how I know), but when one is used to themthey can > > come out quite well. Since there has been no new production for a > > while (and probably the sets included with the hoppersare even older, > > bought when the kits were produced), some other modelers recommend > > warming the set before applying to revivethe wax vehicle. And, unlike > > normal decal lettering, they go on a matte finish rather than a > > glossy. And be sure to set them by rubbingover them after application > > before overspraying a protective coating. > > > > Jace Kahn > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
