Guys, I bought some of these tie jigs direct from Jim back when they were first released, but I've thought a few times that I could use a few more of each type. I am only aware of two types - one with 19" spacing and the other with 22" spacing. I would like to have about 2 more of each type if anyone knows where to get them.
Jim was working on switch tie jigs but I don't know if they ever got finished. One prototype of a "No. 6 LH Turnout Tie Jig" was printed and I have a photo of it as proof, but I don't think it ever went into production. I also have 5 screenshots of the drawings for three #5 and two #6 turnout jigs. John Degnan [email protected] [email protected] ----- Original Message ----- From: Jamie Bothwell To: [email protected] Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2012 08:55 PM Subject: {S-Scale List} Smoky Mt. Tie Jigs Tom, Actually I think there were three. I have three of 22" spacing, and I would be willing to trade for the other sizes. Somehow I'm guessing there should be one of 19" and one larger than 22". I really want the 19" one. Tom, if you are implying that Michigan Models had these in stock, and you would like to sell me some when you find them, I'm willing to buy a few from you. Let me know. Larry Morton (Tomalco) sells resin tie plates to improve the realism of your track. Jamie Bothwell Trackless in Bethlehem, PA On Sep 1, 2012, at 5:57 PM, Tom Hawley wrote: ----- Original Message ----- To: [email protected] Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2012 12:06 PM Fast Tracks also has a jig for straight track and curves. . . . . . . . . . . . . > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > And speaking of track-laying and jigs, Smoky Mountain Model Works made a jig for tie-spacing for those who lay their own track. In fact there are two of them with slightly different tie spacing. I can't give you the numbers right now because I can't find mine, and I can't find them on the SMMW website (doesn't mean they're not there). One lays one's ties in the jig - it gives the spacing you want consistently. Then you lay a piece of masking tape on the ties to lift them out of the jig, and put them down on your roadbed which you have already covered with wood glue. Next step - set a brick or other heavy object on these ties. Repeat down the track-path till you get tired or run out of bricks. Come back next day, remove bricks, spike down one rail, get gauge and spike down the other rail. The people who laid track this way usually ended up with track with no tie plates and a spike about every 4 ties, not very realistic. That's why I've always prefered store-bought flextrack. But a person probably could use this method and put down tie plates and spike every one of them. Tom Hawley -- Lansing Michigan
