1. My first group of 10 turnouts had longer points based on an unverified notion of how much clearance was required between the bottom flange of the stock rail and the thickness of the rail joiner while drawing them on the computer at work. While building them I discovered there was plenty of clearance and I shortened them up considerably. Everything is in boxes at the new house so I can't measure them. 2. I took a belt and suspenders approach to isolating and insulating frogs and points. Because I had decided that my frog was going to be powered through the switch machine's internal switches and the rail from the frog to point would be electrically continuous to the point hinge and the points would draw their power from contact with the stock rail and I used insulated rail joiners for the hinge. I suppose they could be dressed up with plastic fish plates.
3. PC board. When the new layout gets started I'm going to explore something different that will have a more prototypical look and thickness. Ben Trousdale --- In [email protected], "Michael Eldridge" <meldridge@...> wrote: > > I'm curious: > 1. how long your moving rails are from point to hinge. I think the prototype > (SP, the one and only) did this with 16 ft. of rail. > 2. do you have a rail joiner at the hinge? Anybody have a better looking > alternative? > 3. what materials are people using for throw bars. Like, (Paul) why use PC > board if you are going to make a mechanical, unsoldered link of the points to > the throw bar? (Bob) why use epoxy/fiberglass board (PC board without foil) > instead of more common materials? > > BTW, the forming tool is brilliant. I've been filing off the web on the tab > side, but the forming tool sounds great. Is it just milled out of something > harder than brass? > > -Michael Eldridge > -Should be painting the layout room walls later today, just sky color, then a > graded shading with white at the horizon. > > --- In [email protected], Bob Werre <bob@> wrote: > Another mentor Fred Little made up a two > > piece forming tool to make the tabs with an offset to contour to the web > > of the rail. We solder them to the side of the rail (I use silver > > bearing solder), then drill the holes and round the edges for > > appearance. I use the 00-90 screws while Jack used to make up rivets > > (both work). We generally also use the same material (but a bit > > thicker) that PC ties are made from but without the copper laminate. > > > > We also hinge most of the other ends. > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
