Thank Jim,
I was reading all this guff about automotive paint on models telling myself how
I am going to answer when yours came in. Your answer stating how great imports
were and are painted was spot on using the automotive refinishes. All the early
Badger water and others were hard to refinish with for several reasons that I
am not going to spend all day talking about. As I stated today the repair
industry is shifting over to a waterborne color with a urethane clear. Some now
offer waterborne clears. I spray them all. I am not going to address the
grinding of any pigments but I state this point. Today's waterborne is
incredible for painting models made of plastic, wood and metal. Drying time as
always is quick with a hair drier.
Getting your paint from the hobby industry is fine if that is how you want to
make it happen or the only way. But to answer the question of color consistence
,application, adhesion and film. I suggest you find a waterborne body shop near
you. Get to know the painter. All your colors will be ready to spray and
consistent. If you have a problem you can talk directly to a professional. At
this time the brand names I would recommend in this order is Sikkens, PPG and
then Sherwin. These three are as close to what you are shooting now with your
airbrush. The others are still in the solvent family.
As for quantity a modeler would need. Today's refinishers use mixing systems
that will allow the volume to be adjusted down to a touch up bottle and keep
the color consistent. They do this all day long to keep cost down on the
repairs.
I know that I am not very well known on this list so please don't cast my post
aside. Try out the newer waterborne automotive paints.
Mike Swederska
BTW those of you out there that restore old tinplate. I have matched those
colors perfectly with automotive refinishes.
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