Hi all --
I agree with all that Bill Lane has said.
However, my wife just got a Nikon “Coolpix” camera from Wally World which is
very impressive. It is 16 megapixel, takes both stills and short videos,
and fits in your shirt pocket. I still haven’t read the instructions (it’s
HER camera), so I don’t know what it is truly capable of doing (like setting
priorities such as F stop), but it has a very extensive set of menu options.
Total cost, including memory card and tax, was less than $170.
I just now took some photos with it to compare to what I have taken with my
Canon DSLR, which has all the options Bill mentions, and using just the
“point and shoot” default setting the Nikon gave mixed results. It did
give acceptable depth of field when used in an “overview” composition, maybe
even better than the Canon set on auto, but when set into the layout it
focused at about 2 feet with a SHARP depth of field from about 1 foot to 4
feet. Beyond that, the focus got little soft, but not bad.
So I would do as Bill suggested, but add the recommendation that one read
the instructions to learn of the potential camera’s options and capabilities
before buying.
Have fun!
Bill Winans
-----------------------------------
I replied earlier to George directly.
In spite of the advances in cameras one thing remains true. If you do not
have an understanding of basic very basic camera controls and how they will
affect your photo you are likely to be chasing something you will not catch.
The relationship of F stop and shutter speed have not changed in a hundred
years. It all still applies in film and digital photography. You absolutely
have to master this aspect before you will get good results consistently.
Your pocket cameras that are point n shoot are now mostly going after the
“Facebook” photo that is miles apart from taking good layout photos. Your
camera will not tell you what it is doing in AUTO mode so you have no chance
to change it for better results. This is where the better camera and money
spent to get it come in. Megapixels are good but getting depth of field is
key which comes in play when using the more manual control functions.
For about 10 years I had various Fuji “Bridge” cameras. A bridge camera is
the highest form of a point n shoot and looks like a DSLR but the lens does
not come off. They were OK for taking photos of still models but greatly
lacked in shutter reaction time for moving objects. You pressed the shutter
and waited for the camera to think about it for a while. After getting too
many photos of grass patches where my dogs were 1 second earlier is when I
got my Canon T3i. After about a year we are finally friends.
You will get to chase the camera brand of your choice. Most would probably
consider Canon or Nikon. Always buy new! The cameras are really computers
that will not have the 20+ year lifespan and durability of your old film
SLR. You are probably looking at about 5 years with medium use.
Do your research by checking reviews and don’t jump to buy. There is usually
another place with a better price. I actually broke my usual eBay habit and
bought retail locally at a camera shop – not at the best price I found. I
wanted some touchy feely with it first before buying. It all worked out.
Thank You,
Bill Lane
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/
<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join
(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
[email protected]
[email protected]
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[email protected]
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
