Re: [BlindHandyMan] Setting air compressor gage

[Rob Monitor]

HI GUY, How would a guy tell if the face on a gage comes off?? Well I have 
sears air compressor it's about 5 years old it's a big one can't remember how 
big it really is but it's big... Also it's the diaphragm kind do you think this 
kind the face would come off???
THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:36 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Setting air compressor gage


  Max,

  If the faces come off of your gages, you can mark them tactually. If the
  faces don't come off of your existing gages, you can go to any good tool
  supply store and scrounge up a couple of replacements from which the faces
  can be removed.
  I have a number of pressure measuring devices that are done this way and it
  works out well.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Agent86b
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 6:24 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Setting air compressor gage

  Hi all,
  has anybody found a way of setting the air pressure to the correct PSI for
  particular tools? For example my air drill must run at 90 PSI, but my
  compressor tank is factory set to 115 PSI. I can get my sited wife to come
  and read the two gages to tell me what I have, but I would rather do it
  myself. Otherwise I must wait for her to come home before using a different
  tool. Thanks for any advice. Max.

  

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
  age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 

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  address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Setting air compressor gage

[Rob Monitor]

THANKS LARRY, I went out and looked at my air compressor gages and the top of 
them came right off. Now sense I never could read the gages before what are the 
two gages reading and which one is what??? Hope this question is coming out 
right.
THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 7:16 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Setting air compressor gage


  Is your leak down tester fixed for you to read? I used to have one from Sunn 
Electric and it had been converted so to speak...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 2:42 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Setting air compressor gage

  Basically the only times I turn mine down is when charging up my brake
  bleeding tank or when I need exactly 100LBS pressure for my cylinder leek
  down tester.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 11:59 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Setting air compressor gage

  I know some will comment about how unsafe it is, but i jus leave mine wide
  open. never had a tool blow apart, or any other strange thing that might
  happen. I would think a paint sprayer would be the one thing you would want
  the exact pressure on. Michael

  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Agent86b
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 7:24 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Setting air compressor gage

  Hi all,
  has anybody found a way of setting the air pressure to the correct PSI for
  particular tools? For example my air drill must run at 90 PSI, but my
  compressor tank is factory set to 115 PSI. I can get my sited wife to come
  and read the two gages to tell me what I have, but I would rather do it
  myself. Otherwise I must wait for her to come home before using a different
  tool. Thanks for any advice. Max.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
  age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 

  If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
  address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list
  of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
  message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] ignition gaps on a Briggs and Stratton

[Rob Monitor]

HI, In most cases for the B AND S engines the flywheel gap is 1 and the 
points are 2 plugs are 3. That's why Band S engines are nice...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert j 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 2:38 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] ignition gaps on a Briggs and Stratton


  I have a 17 HP B and S
  Engine on a lawn tractor. Where would be a good place to start for a gap
  between the magneto and the fly wheel. Or does it run the gammit from engine
  to engine. Also if I need to dig further, what should the points be gapped
  at?
  I have not had the fly wheel off of this engine so as far as I know maybe
  they have done away with points by the time this engine was built. I have no
  idea how old the engine is and it is not the origanl engine so if I nne to
  find numbers where would the most commen places be to look?



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] mettle verses shingle roof

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I put a mettle roof on about 2 years ago. As far as hearing the rain with 
mine I have a lot of insulation in my attic and I don't hear the rain any more 
then a shingle roof. When we put it on we took off all the old shingles right 
down to wood and put a rubber membrane on then the mettle.. Well I'm very happy 
with my mettle roof and would do it again...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA- Original Message - 
  From: Kevin Doucet 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 4:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mettle verses shingle roof


  Good to know about the withstanding high wends.

  I would need to ware Pampers if I were to get on a roof. I suffer 
  from vertigo in high places. I don't consider more than getting on a 
  latter to clean gutters.

  At 08:04 PM 6/19/2008, you wrote:

  >If installed correctly a metal roof will withstand a 150 MPH 
  >hurricane. A consideration for those of us in the South.
  >
  >One fault I have with them, if you ever plan to get up on the roof 
  >you will need a rope just to stay on it. We have one on our house in 
  >South Carolina and when I was on it earlier in the spring the only 
  >thing that kept me from sliding off was a pair of very grippy knee 
  >pads. If I got off my knees I was in trouble. Come to think of it 
  >marriage is that way too...
  >- Original Message -
  >From: Kevin Doucet
  >To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  >Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 7:58 PM
  >Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mettle verses shingle roof
  >
  >Hi,
  >
  >I am considering geting a mettle roof put on my house. I mentioned
  >this to a friend the other day and he asked me if I am planning to
  >live 50 more years.
  >
  >I would like to get your input and logic on one choice over the other
  >if one probably will not live 50 more years.
  >
  >Thanks.
  >Thanks.
  >
  >Kevin Doucet
  >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >
  >confuse as says
  >
  >Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >No virus found in this incoming message.
  >Checked by AVG.
  >Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.4.0/1507 - Release Date: 
  >6/18/2008 7:09 AM

  Thanks.

  Kevin Doucet
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  confuse as says

  Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] the nut with a bolt problems

[Rob Monitor]

HI, You mite try putting  some Works toilet bowl cleaner on the nut and bolt  
sounds like there is a lot of corrosion from the water and Works will dissolve 
it...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: rs_denis 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 6:04 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] the nut with a bolt problems


  John, is this PB blaster a different kind of penetrating oil? It's a new one 
for me. 
  Ron

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural Gas.

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, could you till me what HP. your briggs and stratton engine is? Also do you 
have the float type carb.  on it??? 
Thanks Rob from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: NLG 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 5:47 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural 
Gas.


  Hi,
  Yes, in my case, I can run my generator on either natural gas or gasoline.

  The engine on my generator is a Briggs and Stratton. The addaptor to run on 
natural gas fits right on top of the carb. The choke plate is moved on this 
engine by sliding a lever. After installing the natural gas addaptor on top of 
the carb, the sliding choke lever was not long enough to reach the arm on the 
choke plate, so I had to extend the lever to reach the arm on the choke plate. 
I extended it with a short piece of metal I cut from a piece of roof flashing 
and rivoted it to the end of the choke lever with two small pop rivots.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 23:49
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural 
Gas.

  I do not understand you rmessage here when yhou refer to" to extend 
  the choke so I can run gasoline." did I miss something. can you run 
  these engines on natural gas and pr gasoline? thanks for the 
  explaining.Lee

  On Sun, Nov 09, 2008 at 
  12:51:34PM 
  -0500, NLG wrote:
  > I converted my generator to run on natural gas about 10 yearrs ago. I don't 
remember now where I bought the kit but it was somewhere online. I do remember 
telling the sales person the model of the engine on my generator and that was 
the only information he needed. He then sent me the kit which consisted of a 
natural gas regulator ( looks similar to the one on a gas grill) an adaptor 
that bolted onto the carb, a piece of hose that connected the regulator to the 
adaptor, and a few bolts and clamps. It was pretty simple to hook up, I 
completed the job in less than an hour. The most difficult part was extending 
the choke linkage to get it to reach so I could still run it on gasoline
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: Edward Przybylek 
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  > Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 12:27
  > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and 
Natural Gas.
  > 
  > 
  > Hi all,
  > 
  > I read this message about generator conversion kits and took a look at the
  > web site. I was wondering if anyone has ever done such a conversion. If
  > so, how well did it work out? Was the actual conversion difficult to do?
  > Thanks a lot.
  > 
  > Take care,
  > Ed Przybylek
  > 
  > -Original Message-
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
  > Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 7:27 PM
  > To: handyman-blind
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Natural
  > Gas.
  > 
  > Bill, I found this site. They have some interesting information about 
  > conversions. I didn't notice prices.
  > They stated that a 20£ cylinder is equal to 5 gallons of gas. At about $4 
  > per gallon it is almost double what I just paid for my grill tank to be 
  > filled at $11.
  > 
  > http://www.propane-generators.com/ 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > Send any questions regarding list management to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
  > age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  > Or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  > 
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  > 
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
  > 
  > Visit the archives page at the following address
  > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 
  > 
  > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
  > address for more information:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/
  > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
  > just send a blank message to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > 

  -- 
  The Harvard Law states: Under controlled conditions of light, temperature,
  humidity, and nutrition, the organism will do as it damn well pleases.
  -- Larry Wall in <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Well I bin going a lot of medical stuff the last few months had a tumor in 
my throat and had to go for 6 weeks of radiation and kemo and a lot of other 
stuff. Well I'm fine now but dealing with all the nurses that I had there was 
only one that really new how to deal with a blind person... Do have to say that 
the nurses that I told how to do things around me and how to let me take there 
arm to get me around most of them said that there should be a class in doing 
things for the blind in nursing school...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 9:31 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


  Lee, Interesting, maybe she wrote a great set of rules too bad that the 
  employees don't read them. Although they are very helpful many of them try 
  to pet or talk to my guide dog.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Lee A. Stone" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 9:41 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

  David, If I may. only one store that I know has actual training to
  work with folks with all sorts of disabilities and that is Home
  Depot we know the woman who help write the training manuel. So all of
  us in our own way, if needed can continue to educate the public. Lee

  On
  Mon, Nov 17, 2008 at
  07:17:57AM -0500,
  David Ferrin wrote:
  > I'm quite sure we all have had experiences good and bad in dealing with 
  > the
  > public. The secret service didn't want me to use my cane in the white 
  > house
  > when we went for a tore in 1997. Never the less suffice it to say you're
  > going to find such dopes in the most unlikely places even doctor's offices
  > to mention yet another location. My point is it's fine if you folks wish 
  > to
  > share or more accurately vent a bit, but let's not drag it out too long is
  > all I ask. Personally I can't stand it when a sales clerk won't speak to 
  > me
  > choosing instead to discuss things with the person I'm with at the time. 
  > It
  > does make it difficult for them when I'm alone in the store or should I 
  > say
  > uncomfortable.
  > David Ferrin
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Think like a man of action, and act like a man of thought.
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: "Betsy Whitney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: 
  > Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 7:06 AM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people
  >
  >
  > >I lived and shopped in this town for nine years before my now husband
  > > arrived. All of a sudden the clerks in the stores started talking to
  > > him. I would hand them my credit card with my name on it which is
  > > Elizabeth, not easy to confuse with a male, and they would try to
  > > hand him the slip to sign. He asks, "Isn't it a felony to sign a
  > > credit card slip that isn't mine?"
  > >
  > > Now, we have a system wherein when we go to a store he does what he
  > > calls "whistling dixie." If a clerk or sales person tries to talk
  > > with him, he just walks away and starts whistling until I'm finished.
  > >
  > > One of the other things the clerks did was try to give him my change
  > > when I paid cash for something. I would ask, "Why is it that the
  > > money came out of my purse and you're giving him my change? As many
  > > times as I have seen him pay for things, not once have you ever tried
  > > to give me his change..."
  > >
  > > At 05:53 PM 11/16/2008, you wrote:
  > >
  > >>Friends of the order of the Nailing Apron,
  > >>You've probably had experiences similar to mine when I visited Menards
  > >>yesterday. We picked up supplies to upgrade the kitchen. With the new
  > >>furnace the chimney is no longer in use. By taking it out I can adde 24
  > >>inches of upper and lower cabinets and countertop. Then we'll upgrade to
  > >>new lights, and llay new vinyl flooring.
  > >>So I needed some screws. It's hard for even my wife the find the ones I
  > >>want (3 inch, all purpose with a square drive). So I stood in the screw
  > >>aisle while she went to fetch a sales person. When he came up to me I
  > >>asked
  > >>him for the xcrews I wanted, and he responded rather rudely, "You're
  > >>looking
  > >>at them."
  > >>So I lifted up my white cane and said, "I'm sorry , sir, I can't see
  > >>them."
  > >>Even then he didn't get it. Not until my wife said, "That's why he 
  > >>carries
  > >>a white cane."
  > >>Suddenly the young man became very nice and very helpfully pulled the
  > >>screws off the shelf and then located the ring shank nails I need for 
  > >>the
  > >>underlayment. "Anything else I can help you with?"
  > >>We went on without him, and did find another store employee who was very
  > >>helpful in helping us locate the underlayment, plywood and masonite we
  > >>needed.
  > >>Twice, on previous visits to Menards I have had sales clerks ask if I
  > >>needed
  > >>to check my white cane. Perhaps it looks a

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Speaking of sharpening blades, has any one on the list seen or herd of the 
sharp-all machine.. The thing is so post to sharpen saw blades and almost any 
thing else.. Just wondering  if a blind guy could use this machine or not..
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert Riddle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 12:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades


  I've got a long round metal rod that came with my knife set. Are you supposed 
to hold the blade perpendicular to the steel, that is, the ends of hte knife 
and rod are at right angles to each other? Clarify your message a bit mire, in 
other words, if ye wouldn't mind.
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 10:23 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  For the kitchen knife, it is best to use a steel. If one uses a grinder of 
any kind the chance of ruining the knife is good. The ideal is to hold the 
knife at the angle the factory set on the knife. Start the knife at the bottom 
of the steel, working upward and pulling the knife toward you. Turn the knife 
over with the edge upward Start at the top of the steell and work downward, 
pulling the knife toward you. You can hear when the knife begins to take on a 
edge. for the noise level goes down.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  Hi,

  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
  for sharpening. 

  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.

  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
  topic?

  Thanks,

  Keith

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: heating oil fuel gage

[Rob Monitor]

hears is a idea for you... When I had a vending machine rout I had coffee 
machines and in them they had a over foal bucket and in the bucket there was a 
switch that turned off the machine if it got full.. Well what I'm getting to is 
the switch was a styrene foam ball on a little chain and when the bucket got 
full the ball would float up and there was a little switch on the other end of 
the chain and when there was no tension on the chain the switch would turn 
off.. So what I'm thinking is if you can get into the top of the tank you mite 
make some thing like this but with a little buzzer on it to tell you when the 
tank is low it would have to work in reverse of what the over full  bucket 
switch was but it should work Also this way there would be  no electronics 
in the tank it self...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 5:42 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: heating oil fuel gage



  Years ago Jeff when we had an outside 275 gallon Oil tank , I had a 
  real nice local oil man and he brought me a stick which he had marked 
  with a saw so I would know when I was down to a half or quarter tank of 
  fuel.. I'd take a measurement and then set the end of that stick in a 3 
  pound coffee can as it dripped off, then I just set inside the garage 
  door until the next time. It worked fine. I also like your idea of 
  using the old vaccum hose . Stay warm. Lee

  -- 
  My boy is a mean kid. I came home the other day and saw him taping worms
  to the sidewalk, he sits there and watches the birds get hernias. Well,
  only last Christmas I gave him a B-B gun and he gave me a sweatshirt with
  a bulls-eye on the back.

  I told my kids, "Someday, you'll have kids of your own." One of them
  said, "So will you."
  -- Rodney Dangerfield


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Better Options to De-ice Your Driveway

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I like the one about hire some one to shovel your driveway... I really do 
have a guy that plows out my driveway but I shovel the walks myself... Wonder 
if that alcohol mix  would work  on a iced up  step??? 
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ray Boyce 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 1:34 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Better Options to De-ice Your Driveway


  When it comes to removing snow and ice from your driveway many people turn 
  to salt. But salt can damage soil and plants, contaminate groundwater, and 
  corrode
  driveways, car bodies and even household floors.

  The most sustainable way to de-ice your car or driveway is to physically 
  shovel or scrape the wintery mix away. There are several other remedies that 
  do
  not include harmful chemicals or too much back-breaking work.
  . To help clear your windshield, fill windshield wiper reservoir with one 
  part water and two parts vinegar or use water and rubbing alcohol. Then make 
  sure
  your windshield wipers are in working condition.
  . Spray or pour lukewarm (NOT hot) water over the windshield.
  . Cover the windshield with the vinegar and water mixture to help prevent 
  ice buildup.
  . Cover the windshield with a rug or scrap piece of carpet the night before 
  snow or ice.
  . Hire someone to shovel your driveway.

  Other ice melting products are available but can be harmful to the 
  environment, children and pets, so be sure to read the label. Many of the 
  pellets you
  put down on the driveway to melt the ice, such as
  Driveway Heat,
  contain chemicals that are considered to be nontoxic if used correctly but 
  are still just as harmful as salt. Children and pets are especially at risk 
  because
  these products heat up - some to 175 degrees - to break the ice away from 
  the driveway. Pets can get the pellets stuck in their paws and end up burnt,
  or worse, ingesting them. The same is true for children. Anything you track 
  onto your carpet can end up in children's eyes or mouths.

  Some
  chemicals
  are less harmful to the environment and your family.
  Safe Paw
  makes an ice melting product that is specifically designed to keep children 
  and pets safe.
  Cryotech E36
  is acetate-based and is considered nontoxic. Calcium magnesium acetate (CMA) 
  is a better alternative to salt, but can still be harmful to the 
  environment.
  The key is the amount of rainfall. The area affected needs adequate moisture 
  to wash the chemicals away.

  Some products are also available to help you
  shovel snow.
  One example is the
  wovel,
  which uses your body weight to remove snow and is easier on your back.

  Do you have an ice removal remedy?



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

[Rob Monitor]

HI, You mite try using vinegar and baking soda.. Put a good amount of soda in 
the drain and then the vinegar... Let it set  and work for a long wile and then 
run the water and see what happens...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA- Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 7:54 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps


  Depending on the severity of the clog, give something like Dawn dishwashing 
liquid a big squeeze directly into the drain and then dump some very hot water 
in after it. It may have to have a couple doses of hot water dumped in. If you 
see progress repeat it. If not no harm was done. But think about it. Dish soap 
is used to dissolve grease so using a larger amount of dish soap will make it 
stronger and the hot water helps to melt the grease as well. I've done this 
myself that's why I can pass it along.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 5:56 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

  Long ago we had a discussion on her as to what works good in home sewer 
  traps, like the ones under the kitchen sink and that main trap before 
  things leafve the house. I have a feeling that someone here has not 
  wiped a greasy pan out like after having cooked sausage or a burger. It 
  was my turn to do the dish's today and I am positive I felt grease on 
  the little dohangis that stops up the water. so besides buying liquid 
  plumber what might be good for possible grease in a trap. is it baking 
  soda, rock salt? any and all answers, suggestions would be appreciated. 
  thanks.lee

  -- 
  Did you hear that two rabbits escaped from the zoo and so far they have
  only recaptured 116 of them?

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I use the RAT ZAPPER and it works great really nice that you don't even 
have to handle the mouse...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jesus Is the Answer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 11:34 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap


  Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by 
the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for generations. 
The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice are getting 
smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out. However, most of 
the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the treddle without it 
snapping. Any ideas?

  ---Anthony

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home Gyms

[Rob Monitor]

Well guys I heat my house mostly with wood. So between cutting slitting and 
stacking the wood and all of the caring it into the house and other things 
that you have to do when heating with wood I really don't need to work out 
with weights and things like that  HA HA ...
MARRY CHRISTMAS FROM ROB FROM MINNESOTA
- Original Message - 
From: "Little Freak" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 8:14 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Home Gyms


> absolutely, this is a great way also if you are trained in how to do it. 
> The
> problem is your casual weight lifter is not. So it would do more harm than
> good. Doesn't sound like your the Joe blow out their doing casual weight
> lifting.
>
>
> thanks, Little Freak([EMAIL PROTECTED])
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer
> Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 9:01 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Home Gyms
>
> Matt,
>
> I learned a trick a very-very long time ago probably when I lifted in high
> school, what that is when lifting alone leave the locks off of the ends of
> the bar so that if you do get in trouble you can dump the iron with out
> getting caught under it. The unintended consequence of this method is that 
> I
> find myself being far more careful and paying a lot more attention to my
> form than I would if I depended upon some other piece of equipment. I do 
> not
> recommend this for everyone but I have been at this for many years and 
> feel
> pretty comfortable with heavy weights.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> 
> [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  ] On Behalf Of Little Freak
> Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:03 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Home Gyms
>
> hi, if you are doing free weights I would suggest anything over 100 to 150
> pounds, that you get Olympus style weights. I also suggest if working out 
> by
> your self that you get a bench and rack that will act as a self spotter.
> This way if you get in trouble all you have to do is let go and it will
> catch and lock in place and leaving you with the least amount of injury. I
> would say anything over 50 to 100 pounds a person need a spotter or a self
> spotter. This is especially you are blind. That small amount of with you
> might could get off of you anything more and you would be in trouble. Also
> if you are not trying to bulk up a lots or train for some kind of event, 
> and
> are wanting to just stay tone and in shape with some bulk I would suggest
> resistant lifting with bands on a machine or your own body weight. You 
> also
> could mix in some dumbbells along with these machines. I will give two
> machines that will work good for this method below. just one man thoughts.
>
> 1. the Total Gym will do good as a body weight resistant .
> 2. the Bow flex will do good as a band style resistant .
>
> thanks, Little Freak([EMAIL PROTECTED]
>  ) -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> 
> [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  ] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
> Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 3:23 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home Gyms
>
> I have a Wieder bench with the rack included. You can adjust the uprights
> high enough so you can also use it to squat with. The knee extension 
> doubles
> as a ham string curl but I feel a lot safer doing 1 leg at a time. Then I
> only have to load half the weight on it. I welded some extensions on the
> rack part because it was pretty easy to shove the weights up and go over 
> the
> top of the cradle. I just took a piece of angle iron and extended the back
> of the cradle up about 8 more inches. That makes it impossible for me to
> over shoot. I had angle iron in the shop and thought that may be stronger
> than just a piece of band iron. And since I didn't have any band iron at 
> the
> time, I could convince myself with that argument...
>
> If you have a Dick's Sporting Goods near by they carry a bit of weight
> equipment. You definitely want the better stuff once you go over 150 
> pounds
> or so.
> - Original Message -
> From: Larry Stansifer
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> 
> Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 1:48 PM
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Home Gyms
>
> I use free weights a lot in the gym and was actually considering buying a
> bench based system that includes a squott station, leg curl and quad curl
> station but when I tried it out in the store it felt really flimsy and 
> l

Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[Rob Monitor]

Well the mouse goes inside the trap and gets ZAPPED and all you have to do is 
dump him out...
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 7:46 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap


  why not?

  On Fri, 21 Dec 2007, Rob Monitor wrote:

  > HI, I use the RAT ZAPPER and it works great really nice that you don't even 
have to handle the mouse...
  > - Original Message -
  > From: Jesus Is the Answer
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 11:34 AM
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap
  >
  >
  > Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by 
the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for generations. 
The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice are getting 
smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out. However, most of 
the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the treddle without it 
snapping. Any ideas?
  >
  > ---Anthony
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rat Zapper

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, yes  I have the RAT ZAPPER and its works great... the ZAPPER is about 10 
inches long and about 3 inches square and made out of plastic  as far as the 
batteries go it depends on how many mice you get... Think I can get about 6 or 
8 mice on one set of batteries so they last for a wile unless you have a lot of 
mice... What I do is just turn the  Zapper on at night when the mice are more 
active... There is a little light on the top of the ZAPPER and when you first 
turn it on the light will blink on then off. When there is a mouse in it the 
light will keep  blinking on and off I use a light probe to check the light it 
works just find...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Glenn Lemacher 
  To: handyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 9:34 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rat Zapper


  Hello, my understanding is that the so called Rat Zapper really works. A 
  fellow was telling me that it uses four double A batteries and he said that 
  they don't last long and one must replace them often.I want to use it in our 
  basement just in case there are any mice down there and I'm wondering if it 
  will work well for mice only. Also might anyone know just what type of 
  material this devise is made of?
  Thanks for any help. 



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rat Zapper

[Rob Monitor]

Well I really don't know if you could get more then one mouse at a time.. 
Thinking you could but it would use up the batteries faster.. The ZAPPER works 
like a stun gun but the mice can't take the electric shock like a human can so 
if there was more then one mouse in the zapper it would use more electric power 
I think... Really don't know but the manual said that to keep the zapper clean 
so the mice don't see dead ones in it I suppose they will not like to see there 
friends that way... Also I forgot to say that you use a piece of dry dog food 
for bate... 
ROB FROM MINNESOTA- Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 11:33 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rat Zapper


  Rob:

  Can you catch more than one mouse in one of these without emptying the trap
  first? Or does it have to be rearmed?

  Thanks.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Rob Monitor
  Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 11:06 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rat Zapper

  Hi, yes I have the RAT ZAPPER and its works great... the ZAPPER is about 10
  inches long and about 3 inches square and made out of plastic as far as the
  batteries go it depends on how many mice you get... Think I can get about 6
  or 8 mice on one set of batteries so they last for a wile unless you have a
  lot of mice... What I do is just turn the Zapper on at night when the mice
  are more active... There is a little light on the top of the ZAPPER and when
  you first turn it on the light will blink on then off. When there is a mouse
  in it the light will keep blinking on and off I use a light probe to check
  the light it works just find...
  ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Glenn Lemacher 
  To: handyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 9:34 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rat Zapper

  Hello, my understanding is that the so called Rat Zapper really works. A 
  fellow was telling me that it uses four double A batteries and he said that 
  they don't last long and one must replace them often.I want to use it in our

  basement just in case there are any mice down there and I'm wondering if it 
  will work well for mice only. Also might anyone know just what type of 
  material this devise is made of?
  Thanks for any help. 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rat Zapper

[Rob Monitor]

HI well the way I check the batteries is when I turn it on I listen to how the 
light probe sounds when I put it by the light  and you can tell about how good 
the batteries are it takes a little practice but you can do it...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA.
  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 2:16 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rat Zapper


  Thanks Rob, yeah, you'd think mice would be leary of dead mice, but I don't
  know if they really are or not. I assume (perhaps wrongly), that this thing
  has a bunch of capacitors in it and that's how it builds up enough juice to
  zap. Do you check the battery levels, or is there a light you can read with
  a probe to tell you when to replace them?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Rob Monitor
  Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 12:12 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rat Zapper

  Well I really don't know if you could get more then one mouse at a time..
  Thinking you could but it would use up the batteries faster.. The ZAPPER
  works like a stun gun but the mice can't take the electric shock like a
  human can so if there was more then one mouse in the zapper it would use
  more electric power I think... Really don't know but the manual said that to
  keep the zapper clean so the mice don't see dead ones in it I suppose they
  will not like to see there friends that way... Also I forgot to say that you
  use a piece of dry dog food for bate... 
  ROB FROM MINNESOTA- Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 11:33 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rat Zapper

  Rob:

  Can you catch more than one mouse in one of these without emptying the trap
  first? Or does it have to be rearmed?

  Thanks.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
  <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Rob Monitor
  Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 11:06 AM
  To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rat Zapper

  Hi, yes I have the RAT ZAPPER and its works great... the ZAPPER is about 10
  inches long and about 3 inches square and made out of plastic as far as the
  batteries go it depends on how many mice you get... Think I can get about 6
  or 8 mice on one set of batteries so they last for a wile unless you have a
  lot of mice... What I do is just turn the Zapper on at night when the mice
  are more active... There is a little light on the top of the ZAPPER and when
  you first turn it on the light will blink on then off. When there is a mouse
  in it the light will keep blinking on and off I use a light probe to check
  the light it works just find...
  ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Glenn Lemacher 
  To: handyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 9:34 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rat Zapper

  Hello, my understanding is that the so called Rat Zapper really works. A 
  fellow was telling me that it uses four double A batteries and he said that 
  they don't last long and one must replace them often.I want to use it in our

  basement just in case there are any mice down there and I'm wondering if it 
  will work well for mice only. Also might anyone know just what type of 
  material this devise is made of?
  Thanks for any help. 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[BlindHandyMan] popular mechanics

[Rob Monitor]

HI GUYS, Does any one know where a guy or woman, can get the POPULAR MECHANICS 
Magazine on line or so that you can down load it like a e-book or book for the 
stream??? Hope this makes sense to you... There web site is not the best as far 
as I can till...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 10:16 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Finding the centers


  You've gotten good advice so far. One thing you could try for locating 
  the joists when you go to screw down the plywood. First, lay out the 
  plywood. Then, from underneath, stick some lines of tape on the plywood 
  on either side of the joists. Then flip the plywood over end over end, 
  making sure the left side stays on the left side and the right on the 
  right. Now just screw between the tape lines.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Temporary Work-around!

[Rob Monitor]

HI, You also could use a wet dry vacuum if you have one to get the water out of 
the sink...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 8:39 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Temporary Work-around!


  Is there any chance of purchasing a small immersible pump and pumping the 
  laundry sink either out a window or into another drain? Not a perminent 
  solution, but for a few bucks you could reduce that three or four hours to 
  probably under a half hour.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Little mor on Smart Strips

[Rob Monitor]

HI, if I remember right allot of power strips will not protect your electronics 
if it is turn off...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 1:18 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Little mor on Smart Strips


  Did I miss something? what's wrong with a regular old switched stirp
  except you have to power down the computer first then remember to turn off
  the strip. That's what i do here. doesn't solve the
  battery powered synthesizers though.

  The smart strip is a problems since even when the computer goes "offf" it 
  isn't really off and the smart strip has to know to ignore the minimum
  current drawn by the box in standby.

  Tom



   

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[BlindHandyMan] shour heads

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I was wondering if there is a shower head that would control the flow of 
the hot and cold water... What I mean is when I'm taking a shower and my well 
pump comes on there is a  change in the flow of the water and the shower can 
turn a little cooler  for a minute... Before any one tells me about the what 
you call it thing that you can put in for doing this  by the faucet head the 
reason I'm asking about a shower head is that it is almost impossible to get to 
the plumbing for the   faucet with out taking out a wall good planning on the 
builder of this house... Just trying to do it the most  easiest way I can...
THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] shour heads

[Rob Monitor]

holy SHIT I could tare out the wall for less then that  but thanks for the 
information...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA- Original Message - 
  From: chiliblindman 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 2:14 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] shour heads


  I checked on line at home depot for temperature controlled shower head. Yep! 
One is listed at $471.00. Control temp separate of water volume.
  .bob

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] shower heads

[Rob Monitor]

  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 3:51 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] shour heads


  It's been a long time since I was on a pump but adding a pressure 
  tank before the pump does work.
  Betsy
  At 10:03 AM 1/31/2008, you wrote:
  >the shower head isn't going to change the temp as what it is getting is
  >already mixed by then.
  >They say you can add a second tank before the hot water, and supposedly it
  >will help keep pressure.
  >I get this in my place too!
  >
  >On Thu, 31 Jan 2008, Rob Monitor wrote:
  >
  > > HI, I was wondering if there is a shower head that would control 
  > the flow of the hot and cold water... What I mean is when I'm 
  > taking a shower and my well pump comes on there is a change in the 
  > flow of the water and the shower can turn a little cooler for a 
  > minute... Before any one tells me about the what you call it thing 
  > that you can put in for doing this by the faucet head the reason 
  > I'm asking about a shower head is that it is almost impossible to 
  > get to the plumbing for the faucet with out taking out a wall 
  > good planning on the builder of this house... Just trying to do it 
  > the most easiest way I can...
  > > THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  > >
  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > >
  > >
  >
  >
  >To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  >or
  >ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  >The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  >http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  >Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
  >Various List Members At The Following address:
  >http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
  >
  >Visit the archives page at the following address
  >http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  >
  >If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the 
  >following address for more information:
  >http://www.jaws-users.com/
  >For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy 
  >Man list just send a blank message to:
  >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >Yahoo! Groups Links
  >
  >
  >



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] New and questions about an oil gage

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I was wondering if there was some kind of gage that us blind guys could use 
to read a propane gas tank???
THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA
P.S. I'M TALKING A BIG 500 GALLON TYPE TANK- Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 1:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New and questions about an oil gage


  Tom,

  I didn't forget about you. He just wants to make a suggestion to possibly 
look into it. He is afraid of the cost factor. They are just trying to break 
into the market and the unit is I think $105. If he calls me back I will have 
him contact you. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 1:18 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New and questions about an oil gage

  If the engineer wants practical suggestions about building in speech, I'd be
  happey to help, please don't hesitate to provide him with my contact
  info, this is what I am supposed to do for a living.

  Tom Fowle
  Embedded Systems Developer/ Rehab engineer
  Rehabilitation Engineering Research Center
  The Smith-Kettlewell Eye Research Institute
  2318 Fillmore St.
  San Francisco, CA 94115
  415-345-2123 (Voice)
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Propane a Way of KnowinggHow Much is Left in Tankk

[Rob Monitor]

Well that idea would be a little hard with a 500 lb. tank...
THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ray Boyce 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 3:31 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Propane a Way of KnowinggHow Much is Left in Tankk


  Hi Rob

  While looking around for an article, I was thinking how I could measure the 
  amount left in my tank
  If you had a set of talking bathroom scales and weighed your bottle empty 
  then measured it full and noted the difference.
  Then by your usage over time you could know when it is getting time to 
  refill.
  What do you think.
  We have to adapt what is available to suit our needs.
  Ray 



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Propane a Way of KnowinggHow Much is Left in Tankk

[Rob Monitor]

I to have a 500 gallon LP tank in my yard.. There is a gage on it for telling 
how much gas is there is in it  but being a blind guy it don't do me any good. 
Also I heat my house mostly with wood but I have the gas for when I'm not home 
so I just call the gas CO. when I need gas that is why it would be nice if I 
could read the tank gage myself I live way out in the country and I seem to 
always forget to ask some one when they are here...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 5:36 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Propane a Way of KnowinggHow Much is Left in 
Tankk


  Hello,
  When i bought my house, I wondered to on how to know how much propane we
  have left in our tank. We have a 500 gallon tank that sits in our back
  yard. 
  I do not know if it is a Nebraska thing, that is where I live, or something
  else. My propane provider has a route they do every 4-6 weeks during the
  winter months and top everyone's tank off no matter what. the last fill is
  in late April early may, and they start the route in October. I know this
  wasn't helpful for knowing what is left, but it is nice I do not have to
  worry about calling them when i need propane. 
  Michael



  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Propane a Way of KnowinggHow Much is Left in Tankk

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I don't think a guy could take off the lens off the gage and beside that 
the gas CO. most likely wouldn't let me do it for safety reasons... 
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 3:08 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Propane a Way of KnowinggHow Much is Left in 
Tankk


  Rob, what's the gauge like? Would it be possitle to remove the lenz and
  feel the needle (assuming that's how it's read)? 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Rob Monitor
  Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 18:02
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Propane a Way of KnowinggHow Much is Left in
  Tankk

  I to have a 500 gallon LP tank in my yard.. There is a gage on it for
  telling how much gas is there is in it but being a blind guy it don't do me
  any good. Also I heat my house mostly with wood but I have the gas for when
  I'm not home so I just call the gas CO. when I need gas that is why it would
  be nice if I could read the tank gage myself I live way out in the country
  and I seem to always forget to ask some one when they are here...
  ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 5:36 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Propane a Way of KnowinggHow Much is Left in
  Tankk

  Hello,
  When i bought my house, I wondered to on how to know how much propane we
  have left in our tank. We have a 500 gallon tank that sits in our back
  yard. 
  I do not know if it is a Nebraska thing, that is where I live, or something
  else. My propane provider has a route they do every 4-6 weeks during the
  winter months and top everyone's tank off no matter what. the last fill is
  in late April early may, and they start the route in October. I know this
  wasn't helpful for knowing what is left, but it is nice I do not have to
  worry about calling them when i need propane. 
  Michael

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] find home

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Well with both of my dogs from Leader dog I put a little radio in the 
window on loud enough just so  I could hear it  from the street. after about 5 
or 6 times of coming home with the radio on my dogs new where to go... 
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Matt 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 7:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] find home


  Hah!
  I heard that story about the camra phone, and it was a girl when I heard it.
  If I am pretty sure but not quite sure I am in front of my house and I don't 
want to appear stupid, sometimes I will use my garage door opener on my key 
chain to open the garage.
  Now, if it ever opens one of the neighbor's garages?
  Then I might get in trouble.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 7:11 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] find home

  The comment about a guide dog not finding home but every home in the block 
  prompted me to post this. Incidentally my new guide Micah who I sometimes 
  call clueless can't find home.
  A friend recently had to retire her guide. Where she lives she has a major 
  problem finding her home. She knew that she was on the correct street but a 
  very long sidewalk around the development gave no clue to her home. Her 
  husband purchased a wireless door bell that has a fairly long range. When 
  she thinks that she is near her home the doorbell on the porch guides her 
  home.
  As forgetting lost I read on a list that one guy was quite ingenious. He has 
  a good friend who is a cab driver. Being a cab driver he is familiar with 
  every part of town. When this guy gets lost he uses his camera phone to take 
  some pictures and emails them to the cabby. The guy then calls his friend 
  and tells him where he is and how to get back. Don't know if anyone on list 
  can use these ideas but it is something to ponder over.
  Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
  It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources. 

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 

  If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
address for more information:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Yahoo! Groups Links

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Here is the time when you should get out the wood working tools and build a 
new step stool out of wood. This mite be a good place for people to see what 
kind ideas they can come up with for it...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 10:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool


  I thought about that but thought that the U-bolt would be stronger. At least 
  the stool is now in my home where she can't try to climb up on it.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 9:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

  How about binding the bottom of the handle tube to the leg tube after you 
  cut away the bottom bolt with a good stout hose clamp?
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 8:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

  I am shorting both. the handle parallels the leg and has two 1/4 stainless
  bolts holding the handle. The bottom bolt is 2 inches from the bottom so
  cutting the leg and handle the bottom bolt is lost.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Bob Kennedy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

  I use epoxy a lot but I'd sure feel safer if it was welded. A pop rivet is
  OK in most cases but we're talking about your mom's safety and if she lost
  her balance she could bend a rivet to the point she would fall off along
  with the handle.

  Are you shortening the handle or the whole stool? If the handle is a tube
  that has been bent around in a U shape and you can take it off you could
  drill through the side of the tube and run a bolt through and put a nut on
  the underneath part of the platform. I'm just having trouble picturing the
  style you have in my head.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: Handyman-Blind
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:04 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

  My mother, age 87, needed a step stool to reach her kitchen cabinet. I
  purchased one like in a doctor's office that is a platform with a support
  handle on the end. This stool is a little too high for to step on. It is a
  little over 9 inches high. She would like it lowered to about 6.5 inches.
  Looking at it I really can't just cut it off because the way that the 
  handle
  is affixed. The bottom bolt would end up being removed. The way that it is
  constructed I don't think I can get it under my drill press to make new
  holes.
  I think that I could use some u-bolts to hold it together. To keep the
  U-bolts from sliding I thought about:
  1. plumbers epoxy
  2. drill a hole in the flat part of the U-bolt then drill the leg and use
  a pop rivet
  3. have a friend weld the handle to the stool's leg
  What would be the best recommendation?
  Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
  It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

  If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
  address for more information:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
  list
  just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Yahoo! Groups Links

  --

  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.5/1278 - Release Date: 2/14/2008 
  10:28 AM

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

  If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, the

[BlindHandyMan] plasma power generators

[Rob Monitor]

HI GUYS, Here's good question for all of you. What in the hell is a plasma 
power generator??? Well if any of you guys know what this is please let me know 
just the short version...
THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking tape measure

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I have two different kinds of the talking tape measures. One has the 9 volt 
battery and the other one has the AA battery. The AA battery one is I think the 
better of the two. My 9 volt one does all kinds of wild things and eats up 
batteries really bad... Can not remember the names of them right now and would 
have to do a lot of looking to find the names...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 5:08 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] talking tape measure


  I purchased mine from there as well. Even though it was sent from the UK to
  California, it was cheaper than where I could buy it Stateside. However,
  that was before the dollar plunged.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
  Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 2:35 PM
  To: Handyman-Blind
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] talking tape measure

  I don't remember who was asking about the talking tape measure. I had a
  computer crash and lostmail for the last few days. I purchased mine from:
  http://www.cobolt.co.uk/  

  Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
   
  It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources.

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[BlindHandyMan] weed eaters

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I have a old weed eater that some one gave me not sure what kind it is but 
it's a cheep one. What I would like to find out is the flywheel on a weed eater 
heavy enough to run the motor with out the shaft on it?? Like most smaller lawn 
mowers have to have the blade on it to run does a weed eater have to  have the  
shaft with the string on it??
THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] snap together flooring

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Another thing with the laminate flooring is there is electric pads the you 
can put under the flooring instead of regular padding and that way you can heat 
the room. Although I think for the electric pad you have to be putting the 
floor on a concrete floor.
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 1:00 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] snap together flooring


  i am finding this thread very interesting, and informative. We are trying
  to decide what type of floor to use in our basement bedrooms. We do not
  want carpet, tile, or sheet vinyl. that leaves hard wood, engineered
  hardwood, and laminate, which I think is the same as this snap together
  flooring that is being discussed. I am leaning towards the laminate. And
  with Home Depot having 20% off some of the flooring, makes it seem like a
  good weekend to buy it.
  Michael


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] lime away

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Well I have found that works toilet bowl  cleaner works the best on hard 
water and iron stains. You still mite want to ware gloves but it really 
works... When I lived in a different house then where I live now I had really 
bad iron water and I used works toilet bowl cleaner on all the sinks and bath 
tub and oh YA even the toilet...
ROB FROM MINNESOTAOriginal Message - 
  From: Eugene Baroni 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 8:59 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] lime away


  Are there any better hard water deposit removers than lime away> Hopefully 
  something that doesn't require gloves. 



   

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[BlindHandyMan] water softeners

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I have a sears water softener and it seem to be working all right but the 
salt in it is all hard like a big peace of cement. Also it has not needed any 
salt for over 6 months now so I really wonder if it is really working right. 
Just to let you know I have a  well here do you guys think I should chop up all 
the salt and get it out of the softener and put new salt in it???
THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] water softeners

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Well I just got done chipping all the old  salt out of my softener it took 
me two hours. Now a friend of mine  is bringing me some new salt. Should I put 
some bleach or some thing in the tank before putting the new salt in???
THANKS A LOT ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 4:05 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] water softeners


  Hi Rob,

  I've got a water softener in my house and every year I have someone come in
  to service the unit. Part of this job includes cleaning the brine bucket.
  I get the same very solid block of stuff at the bottom of the bucket that
  needs to be broken up and disposed of. The block is simply impurities from
  the salt that build up over the year. The best way I've found to break-up
  the block is to use an old screwdriver or chisel and a rubber mallet. It
  takes a little time but it's not difficult. Good luck.

  Take care,

  Ed Przybylek

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Rob Monitor
  Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 1:29 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] water softeners

  HI, I have a sears water softener and it seem to be working all right but
  the salt in it is all hard like a big peace of cement. Also it has not
  needed any salt for over 6 months now so I really wonder if it is really
  working right. Just to let you know I have a well here do you guys think I
  should chop up all the salt and get it out of the softener and put new salt
  in it???
  THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

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  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
  database 3090 (20080509) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] water softeners

[Rob Monitor]

hi, Well I read the softener manual it took me all day to find it you no how 
that is. Well in the manual it said to use a little bleach in the softener to 
clean it out after cleaning out all the old salt. You put about 3 gallons of 
water and just a little bleach in the softener then start the regenerating 
cycle. So now I know all about water softeners HA HA... Not only did I have to 
find the manual but then I had to sit and scan it all with my Kurzweil 11.2 
thank god for all this neat stuff us blind guys got now...
THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 9:28 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water softeners


  I have a Sears softener and found it uses very little salt. The thing is not 
to fill the salt up to the salt line or full. My wife just fills our up to the 
number 2. Or about 1/3 of it capacity. 
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 13:28
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] water softeners

  HI, I have a sears water softener and it seem to be working all right but the 
salt in it is all hard like a big peace of cement. Also it has not needed any 
salt for over 6 months now so I really wonder if it is really working right. 
Just to let you know I have a well here do you guys think I should chop up all 
the salt and get it out of the softener and put new salt in it???
  THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Robotic vacuums

[Rob Monitor]

HI, What brand of vacuum do you have and does it have a beater brush on it??? 
Also if I'm may ask about how much did it cost you?? 
THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jeff Balek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 4:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Robotic vacuums


  Hi Jennifer! Actually I have somebody help me charge it up, and then we let 
it run, and it just goes all over my apartment, and there is no downstairs to 
my apartment, so my robotic vacuum goes all over the apartment. 
  Jeff

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 5:25 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Robotic vacuums

  Now is it just the original set up that needs sighted assistance? After that 
do you just charge it up and let the little guy run? Will one set up do both 
carpet and hard surfaces? What about moving it from upstairs to down?

  Jennifer

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jeff Balek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 1:51 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Robotic vacuums

  have a robotic vacuum and I love it. I set it up to vacuum my whole apartment 
whenever I go out of my apartment for grocery shopping or something. My sister 
helps me set it up, because it's kind of tricky. I really like the blind handy 
man show a lot. Sometimes I help my sister Jenny do yard work, and when I move 
into a condo probably next year, I won't have to do any yard work because there 
are professionals who do yard work in condos. Like I said earlier in this post, 
I love the coverage on the blind handyman show and I'm very proud to be a part 
of this list. 
  Jeff Balek from Charlotte North Carolina

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Installing vinyl in my bathroom

[Rob Monitor]

Hi I used carpet tape to put down vinyl and it works really nice you don't need 
to worry about getting all the sticky stuff  all over the place...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Steve 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 4:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Installing vinyl in my bathroom


  I don't know Larry. The hardest thing will be cutting the vinyl around 
  cabinets, toilet, etc.

  When I had my vinyl floor put in, they laid down some kind of sticky glue 
first.

  - Original Message - 
  From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 4:50 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Installing vinyl in my bathroom

  Hi folks,

  I have a small guest bathroom that is in need of a floor
  make-over. I really don't want to put the money into ceramic
  tile or that wazoo composite wood stuff. This means that
  good old sheet vinyl is at the top of the list.
  Is something like this feasible for a blind guy to do? What
  do I need to be aware of? and what part of the job can
  genuinely bite me in the ass?

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer

  Keep your friends close and your enemies closer.

  Sun Tzu.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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[BlindHandyMan] drum sanders for a drill press

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, Does any one have a good idea for a drum sander for a drill press?? The 
drum sander kit that came with my drill press is a piece of junk and I would 
really like to get a good one...
THANKS ROB  from Minnesota

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders

[Rob Monitor]

Yes a wile ago early one Sunday morning I was flipping around the TV channels 
and there was one of those info commercial on the little big latter or what 
ever its call. But Didn't watch it but I'm sure  you could find it some early 
morning if you are up...
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 3:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Little Giant ladders


  oh yes! This is what I didn't have when my height and a mop couldn't clean 
  the walls and ceiling of the stairwell from smelling like dust a month 
  ago. I am not longer willing to stand one foot on the railing and the rest 
  of me out over the middle of the flight of stairs.
  Thees is so good!

  On Mon, 4 Jun 2007, Dan Rossi wrote:

  > If I might expand on what Dave has explained about the Little Giant
  > ladder. It has multiple sections of ladder that are hinged together and
  > can lock into multiple positions. Thus, you can unfold the ladder
  > completely and make a single long ladder. You can have it fold in the
  > middle to make like an a frame step ladder. You can have say three
  > sections on one side and one section on the other so that you can stand it
  > on stairs or a hill. You can have the end sections vertical and the two
  > middle sections horizontal and make a tressel or scaffold.
  >
  > Hope that explains it.
  >
  > -- 
  > Blue skies.
  > Dan Rossi
  > Carnegie Mellon University.
  > E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Tel: (412) 268-9081
  >


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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Re: 45/410 Re: [BlindHandyMan] shotguns in the home

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, Well here in Minnesota you have to get a hand gun permit to carry a hand 
gun. Well I'm thinking of going and seeing about getting a permit to carry 
wondering how much krap they will give me  for being blind...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 8:30 AM
  Subject: 45/410 Re: [BlindHandyMan] shotguns in the home


  An old friend had an interesting piece for home protection. It is a small 
  hand gun that takes either a 45 cal or a 410 shotgun shell. It has about a 
  4" barrel It had a leathal range of about 15 feet. It was a great point and 
  shoot weapon. Since he passed away I wonder where it ended up.
  He had an awsum gun collection but that was his favorite piece for home 
  protection. He kept it ready to go in his bedroom night stand. Downstairs 
  was his 357 also ready to go.
  Chet was sighted but often stated that I would have no problem using that 
  45/410 in the home. He also had it where his wife could quickly access since 
  as he said it was a point and shoot weapon. That was the only time I saw 
  such a gun.
  Lenny

  - Original Message - 
  From: "William Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 8:43 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] shotguns in the home

  My experience was completely different regarding accuracy. The best
  shooting I ever did was with a little .38 Smith with a two inch barrel. I
  did sraw-point-and-shoot, and when I actually tried to aim, my results
  deteriorated significantly.

  Presumably, this is because a short barrel mimics finger pointing, which is
  something we all can do. And, most of the time, you're going to be within
  ten feet of whoever you're shooting at, this is particularly and hopefully
  true for a blind person.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of GenePoole
  Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 12:08 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] shotguns in the home

  I'm not sure if this point was made, however, a small semi automatic like,
  say, a .38, is not very accurate beyond a range of around 10 feet due to the
  fact that most of them have real short barrels. Your best bet is to get
  something like a 9mm glock or a .44, though the latter ones are kind of hard
  to get hold of. Shot guns are not good in home defense weapons. It's like
  smashing a butterfly with a hammer. A good 9mm pistol is a much better
  defense weapon than a shot gun, for the following reasons. One, loading
  time. You have to break open the shot gun, put in the shells, put it back
  together, aim, then fire. A process which takes anywhere from 15 to 30
  seconds, even a minute if you don't know what you're doing. Two,
  maneuvreability. Also contrary to popular belief, it's almost impossible to
  get a good shot off from the hip and hit somebody with any degree of
  certainty. That kind of shot only looks good in the movies. You'll also be
  doing a lot of collateral , and unnecessary, damage. Yes, shotguns are
  really awesome weapons. But they don't belong in the home. Use a shot gun as
  a perimeter defense, not a close range weapon.
  - Original Message - 
  From: clifford
  To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 6:47 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] shotguns in the home

  Dear List members:
  Shotguns are among the deadliest of weapons at close range, and make no
  mistake, a twelve gage with any type of shot will take out a sheetrock wall
  and do damage to a person on the other side.
  I live 20 miles from the sheriff's office and I feel that it is necessary to
  keep a firearm around for home defense, in case some person decides to break
  in to our home at night. I am not a marksman, but with seven shots of double
  ought buck shot, I can be assured of covering a rather large area.
  One problem which I have found with revolvers is the noise from the blast.
  With a short barreled revolver, the crack hurts my ears, and I could not
  hear to tell what is taking place after the first shot. With an automatic
  pistol and a similar length barrel, the noise is a good deal less and I for
  that reason prefer the Simi-automatic pistols.
  A Simi-automatic 22 rifle is also a fairly quiet gun, and they can achieve
  rapid fire with larger clips.
  I truly hope to never fire a weapon against anyone, but if the choice is to
  allow someone to break in or to shoot them, then they are toast.
  One of the difficulties which we face is trying to anticipate the future,
  and to what extent we will all find it necessary to defend our homes. Home
  intrusions are becoming more common, and the meth heads are becoming more
  brazen. Hopefully, this is a spike in that type of activity, but if it
  doubles or triples in the next decade, I will be glad that we acquired fire
  arms in 

[BlindHandyMan] refrigerator

[Rob Monitor]

ALL RIGHT HANDY PEOPLE, Thanks for all your ideas on my refrigerator. Well the 
other day I told you all what I did but sure enough the next day there was 
water in the bottom of the refrigerator again... So today I really did it. 
First I took all the food out of it and on plugged it. Next I took off the back 
panel again then in the freezer there was just two screws that hold down the 
bottom plate of the freezer so I took that out too. Well low and behold under 
that in the back just a little right of the center is a little drain  hole.. So 
sure it was plugged up with ice and other crap I cleaned that out and blew it 
out with my air compressor again and now with a little luck it will work...
THANKS ROB from Minnesota


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Good luck on your new tape measure. Also you mite want to take out the 
battery when you are not using it I found that the battery will last longer 
that way. 
ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 10:00 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery in talking tape measure question


  There is an L-shaped cover located on the opposite end from the opening
  where the tape comes out. If you are facing the back or speaker side of
  the unit with the tape port to the left, press on the ridged area along the
  right edge and pull away from the unit. It fits very tight and there is
  not much clearance when the battery is in the compartment. Good luck.

  Paul Carver



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I would like to hear a little more about that xricon audible liquid level I 
went on google but they didn't have  any thing about it that I could see..
THANKS ROB from Minnesota   
  - Original Message - 
  From: Boyce, Ray 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 4:24 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.


  Hi Dan

  Gee it's fun doing home renovations, I am glad Teresa has got you away
  from the Jack Daniels.
  If you had gone down any deeper you might have come out over here .
  Anyhow I am pleased to see the deck finally starting.
  Keep us posted on it's progress.
  Ray

  

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Wednesday, 20 June 2007 03:49
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

  Well, on Saturday, Teresa's brother came down to help me bore some
  rather 
  large holes in my backyard for the deck footers.

  Teresa and I had already put up all the string lines, leveled them, 
  squared them, made sure they were parallel and perpendicular to the
  house, 
  sprinkled magic powder and danced around them in an effort to ward off
  the 
  almost right gremlins.

  We got up early on Saturday and were out the door to Home Depot by 7:00 
  AM. I picked up a Xircon audible liquid level. This is a set of tubes 
  that you connect to either end of a garden hose. Then you fill the hose 
  with water. When the water in both tubes is at the same level you hear a

  steady tone. Great for eventually marking the height of the posts 
  relative to the ledger board.

  We went to the rental desk and got us a 12 inch diameter, three foot
  long 
  auger, the eighteen inch long extention bar, and the engine to drive the

  whole thing. Then we found we couldn't get it into the car. So we 
  brought it back in and called Teresa's brother who was on his way down
  to 
  our house. He picked up the gear and was able to get it into his truck.

  After lugging the damn thing up the infamous four flights of stairs and 
  back to the house, we took a quick break. We then assembled the rig and 
  started it up for a test. We could not keep the thing running. It's idle

  was set so low, it would immediately stall when you took your hand off
  the 
  throttle. We messed with the choke. We messed with the idle. We checked 
  the fuel filter. We checked the oil. We sent Teresa out to purchase a 
  new spark plug. No joy. So Tommy and I got to work despite the damn 
  thing.

  Tom is a big guy, I am not. I gave him the throttle side, but that left 
  me with pull starting the damn thing, probably 50 or 60 times through
  the 
  entire process. It was very very hard work. However, it was a lot easier

  than I expected. I fully expected to be thrown around, have my shoulders

  wrenched, and possibly get a knee or ankle smashed. Nothing like that 
  happened.

  We would drill down six or eight or ten inches, then pull the auger up
  and 
  clear the dirt from the bit. Of course, the engine would stall and I 
  would have to restart it after we lowered it back in the hole.

  Now, the bit weighed about 40+ pounds. The engine about 50+ pounds. and 
  an auger full of dirt weighed, well, it weighed a hell of a lot. At
  first 
  it wasn't too bad. As we got deeper, it became harder to haul the damn 
  thing up from ground level to high enough to clear the hole and off to
  one 
  side so we could clear the dirt.

  After drilling all the holes down to three feet, Tommy was not very
  happy 
  with the conditions of the bottoms of the holes. We were still in 
  relatively loose, soft dirt and gravel. He convinced me to put the 
  eighteen inch extension bar on and drill until we hit clay or something 
  hard. Well, I now have five four and a half foot deep holes in the yard.

  We got down to clay or sand stone in two out of the five holes. I am 
  hoping we are close to that in the other three holes.

  Now, imagine hauling a hundred and fifty pounds of auger, engine, and
  dirt 
  from ground level up to your shoulders in a nice smooth motion. And
  doing 
  it over and over until all the holes were cleared of loose dirt. I was 
  one sore puppy on Sunday. I have some nice raw spots on the flesh
  between 
  my thumb and forefinger from blisters that broke.

  As an aside, a guy I see in the gym locker room regularly, put in a deck

  last year. We have been sharing stories about decks for a while. I 
  hadn't seen him for a couple of weeks. I saw him Monday morning. We 
  chatted for a bit, then he saw my hands and said "What the hell did you
  do 
  to your .. HEY! You drilled your post holes didn't you?" He had the 
  same exact wounds when he did his.

  We covered the holes with plastic and lumber to keep the plastic from 
  blowing off. I called the inspector today and he will inspect my holes 
  this afternoon. I 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

[Rob Monitor]

ater in tube overnight to reduce mineral 
buildup. Disconnect the longer length of working hose, connector, and clamps
  from the unit. Wet the tube-cleaning brush (included in the package) with 
water. Insert fully into the short sensor tube. Rotate the bristles gently to
  clean the contacts, remove brush, and then rinse. Reattach the working hose 
and the level is ready for use.

  When quitting work for a short time, you can leave the water inside the hose. 
Lock the clamps at each end of the hose, and carefully coil the hose. To prevent
  corrosion when not in use, unclamp the hose at both ends and drain the water 
from the long end of the hose. Store unit with clamps open in a dry place.
  Cleaning the water level

  Addtional Hosing is Available

  Stores that sell this product usually sell or can order additional hosing in 
25' lengths. The hose interior diameter is 5/16" and comes with an additional
  connector to allow you to extend your working length. 

  ----- Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 23:58
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

  HI, I would like to hear a little more about that xricon audible liquid level 
I went on google but they didn't have any thing about it that I could see..
  THANKS ROB from Minnesota 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Boyce, Ray 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 4:24 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

  Hi Dan

  Gee it's fun doing home renovations, I am glad Teresa has got you away
  from the Jack Daniels.
  If you had gone down any deeper you might have come out over here .
  Anyhow I am pleased to see the deck finally starting.
  Keep us posted on it's progress.
  Ray

  

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Wednesday, 20 June 2007 03:49
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

  Well, on Saturday, Teresa's brother came down to help me bore some
  rather 
  large holes in my backyard for the deck footers.

  Teresa and I had already put up all the string lines, leveled them, 
  squared them, made sure they were parallel and perpendicular to the
  house, 
  sprinkled magic powder and danced around them in an effort to ward off
  the 
  almost right gremlins.

  We got up early on Saturday and were out the door to Home Depot by 7:00 
  AM. I picked up a Xircon audible liquid level. This is a set of tubes 
  that you connect to either end of a garden hose. Then you fill the hose 
  with water. When the water in both tubes is at the same level you hear a

  steady tone. Great for eventually marking the height of the posts 
  relative to the ledger board.

  We went to the rental desk and got us a 12 inch diameter, three foot
  long 
  auger, the eighteen inch long extention bar, and the engine to drive the

  whole thing. Then we found we couldn't get it into the car. So we 
  brought it back in and called Teresa's brother who was on his way down
  to 
  our house. He picked up the gear and was able to get it into his truck.

  After lugging the damn thing up the infamous four flights of stairs and 
  back to the house, we took a quick break. We then assembled the rig and 
  started it up for a test. We could not keep the thing running. It's idle

  was set so low, it would immediately stall when you took your hand off
  the 
  throttle. We messed with the choke. We messed with the idle. We checked 
  the fuel filter. We checked the oil. We sent Teresa out to purchase a 
  new spark plug. No joy. So Tommy and I got to work despite the damn 
  thing.

  Tom is a big guy, I am not. I gave him the throttle side, but that left 
  me with pull starting the damn thing, probably 50 or 60 times through
  the 
  entire process. It was very very hard work. However, it was a lot easier

  than I expected. I fully expected to be thrown around, have my shoulders

  wrenched, and possibly get a knee or ankle smashed. Nothing like that 
  happened.

  We would drill down six or eight or ten inches, then pull the auger up
  and 
  clear the dirt from the bit. Of course, the engine would stall and I 
  would have to restart it after we lowered it back in the hole.

  Now, the bit weighed about 40+ pounds. The engine about 50+ pounds. and 
  an auger full of dirt weighed, well, it weighed a hell of a lot. At
  first 
  it wasn't too bad. As we got deeper, it became harder to haul the damn 
  thing up from ground level to high enough to clear the hole and off to
  one 
  side so we could clear the dirt.

  After drilling all the holes down to three feet, Tommy was not very
  happy 
  with the conditions of the bottoms of the holes. We were still in 
  relatively loose, soft dirt and gravel. He convinced me to put the 
  eighteen i

[BlindHandyMan] pop rivets

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, could some one till me how much a pop rivet gun would cost and how hard are 
they to use?? Also how thick of metal can they rivet together??
THANKS ROB

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] cutting a hole

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Thinks for all the information on the pop rivet gun... Now I need any ideas 
on how to cut a 6-inch round hole in a peace of sheet metal.. Y ears ago I 
worked in a  Plumbing and heating place and if I remember right one of the guys 
used a thing where you drilled a hole in the center of what you wanted to cut 
the hole and this tool had a pin that you put in the hole and there was a rod 
type thing and on the other end you could mount a drill this was adjustable so 
you could move the drill back and fore so you could get the different size 
hole. Now as far as I know you used just a regular drill bit and just turned on 
the drill and turned it around and cut out the hole... Now does this  sound 
like it would work  or am I thinking of some thing else???
THANKS ROB from Minnesota

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting a hole

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, it's me Rob, I do have a router  could I use that any way  to cut out this 
hole??
THANKS Rob
  - Original Message - 
  From: Shane Hecker 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:08 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting a hole


  I don't know about cutting sheet metal, but they do have a whole saw that 
will cut through metal. I know because I used one to cut a disk out of a piece 
of quarter inch thick metal plating. Did this in a metal shop class in high 
school bout 12 years ago and I still have that saw today.

  Shane

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 8:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting a hole

  Are you speaking of cutting sheet metal in this way?

  I don't think a standard hole saw is the tool for that job unless there is 
some sort I am unaware of which is quite possible.
  .

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Gallik 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 6:59 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting a hole

  Rob,

  I believe what you're referring to is a cutting tool arm. This is an arbor
  with an "arm" attached that holds a lathe-type cutting tool on the end. The
  arbor serves to hold the drill bit and also allows the "arm" to be adjusted
  in radius to permit differing size holes to be cut. I would think you would
  need to use a drill press with this configuration because it would be so
  difficult to keep the drill bit standing perpendicular to the stock being
  cut to ensure a perfectly round hole. And even with a drill press a lot of
  care is needed to make sure only an even and equal amount of stock is being
  removed with each revolution of this set up.

  I have one of these and as you bore down with the drill press extreme care
  and delicacy must be in play. A much easier way to cut a 6" diameter hole
  is to buy or rent a 6" hole saw -- but these are expensive. I bought a
  Vermont American 6" hole saw and it cost over $40.00.
  
  Bill Gallik
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - "Nothing changes your opinion of a friend so surely as success - yours or
  his."
  - Franklin P. Jones

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  --

  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.10/875 - Release Date: 6/27/2007 
9:08 PM

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Circles in Sheet Metal

[Rob Monitor]

This is Rob again, Ray what I'm cutting the hole in is a 55 gallon oil drum 
top. Do you think this nail cutting thing would work for that?? Also I do have 
a router and could there be any way I could use that??
THANKS ROB
  - Original Message - 
  From: Boyce, Ray 
  To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.Com 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:34 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Circles in Sheet Metal


  Hi Rob

  The cheapest form of a circle cutting jig is just a piece of wood with a
  hole drilled as the centre point with a screw and nut to lock it in
  position and a nail driven through at the desired diameter with the
  point of the nail used as a cutting edge. 
  Just revolve it around until you cut through the metal if it becomes
  dull use another sharp nail.
  You can get metal cutting blades for a Jig Saw and circle cutting tin
  snips also nibblers if you have a compressor.
  Also there are things called trammels which have points both ends which
  boiler makers use for marking out circles.
  But for a one off cut try the wood and nail trick.
  What you did not say is how thick this sheet metal is you are trying to
  cut.
  If it is really thin like sheet copper you could use scissors.
  HTH

  Ray 

  **
  This message and its attachments may contain legally
  privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
  intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
  information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
  in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
  e-mail and delete the e-mail.

  Any content of this message and its attachments which
  does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
  must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
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  **

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Circles in Sheet Metal

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, yes Know all about putting water and a little dish soap in the drum before 
cutting into it... Got about 60 55 gallon drums from a friend of mine that had 
a paint shop and paint and other stuff came in the drums.. He tolled me all 
about the hazard..
THANKS ROB-- Original Message - 
  From: Bill Gallik 
  To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.Com 
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 3:16 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Circles in Sheet Metal


  Rob,

  Be VERY CAREFUL when cutting that hole. What did the drum contain? Is there
  any possibility of fumes that could explode when heated? You might want to
  consider filling the drum with water before cutting the hole to eliminate
  the possibility of a disastrous outcome.

  When I was about 10 years old a 27 year old neighbor was killed while trying
  to use a cutting torch on a storage drum. He left behind a pregnant wife
  and a young family, what a pitiful situation that was.
  
  Bill Gallik
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - "Nothing changes your opinion of a friend so surely as success - yours or
  his."
  - Franklin P. Jones
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Rob Monitor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:26 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Circles in Sheet Metal

  This is Rob again, Ray what I'm cutting the hole in is a 55 gallon oil drum
  top. Do you think this nail cutting thing would work for that?? Also I do
  have a router and could there be any way I could use that??
  THANKS ROB
  - Original Message - 
  From: Boyce, Ray
  To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.Com
  Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:34 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Circles in Sheet Metal

  Hi Rob

  The cheapest form of a circle cutting jig is just a piece of wood with a
  hole drilled as the centre point with a screw and nut to lock it in
  position and a nail driven through at the desired diameter with the
  point of the nail used as a cutting edge.
  Just revolve it around until you cut through the metal if it becomes
  dull use another sharp nail.
  You can get metal cutting blades for a Jig Saw and circle cutting tin
  snips also nibblers if you have a compressor.
  Also there are things called trammels which have points both ends which
  boiler makers use for marking out circles.
  But for a one off cut try the wood and nail trick.
  What you did not say is how thick this sheet metal is you are trying to
  cut.
  If it is really thin like sheet copper you could use scissors.
  HTH

  Ray

  **
  This message and its attachments may contain legally
  privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
  intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
  information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
  in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
  e-mail and delete the e-mail.

  Any content of this message and its attachments which
  does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
  must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
  Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
  attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
  **

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Circles in Sheet Metal

[Rob Monitor]

Well I fill the drum  about half way and then add a little dish soap that is to 
neutralize any thing in the drum. Then I put the plug back in and turn it on 
it's side and roll it around. OK now about cutting the hole today I made a 
little guide for my saber saw. Just a old paint stick it was just the right 
thickness well I drilled a hole on one end and then measured 3 inches and 
drilled another hole  and mounted it to my saber saw by taking off the plate on 
the bottom of the saw it had only one screw and screwed the stick to the saw. 
Now I can drill a hole in the drum and put a bolt threw the stick into the drum 
and drill another hole to start the blade of the saber saw and cut and turn it 
around on the stick and hope I get a 6 inch hole out it. Now tomorrow I got to 
go the hardware store and get some metal cutting blades for my saw... 
THANKS FOR ALL THE IDEAS 
ROB from Minnesota  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel Blanch 
  To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.Com 
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Circles in Sheet Metal


  Do you fill the drum to the top with water to push the fumes out? and why the 
dish wash?

  Jewel
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.Com 
  Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 3:00 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Circles in Sheet Metal

  Hi, yes Know all about putting water and a little dish soap in the drum 
before cutting into it... Got about 60 55 gallon drums from a friend of mine 
that had a paint shop and paint and other stuff came in the drums.. He tolled 
me all about the hazard..
  THANKS ROB -- Original Message - 
  From: Bill Gallik 
  To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.Com 
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 3:16 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Circles in Sheet Metal

  Rob,

  Be VERY CAREFUL when cutting that hole. What did the drum contain? Is there
  any possibility of fumes that could explode when heated? You might want to
  consider filling the drum with water before cutting the hole to eliminate
  the possibility of a disastrous outcome.

  When I was about 10 years old a 27 year old neighbor was killed while trying
  to use a cutting torch on a storage drum. He left behind a pregnant wife
  and a young family, what a pitiful situation that was.
  
  Bill Gallik
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - "Nothing changes your opinion of a friend so surely as success - yours or
  his."
  - Franklin P. Jones
  - Original Message ----- 
  From: "Rob Monitor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:26 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Circles in Sheet Metal

  This is Rob again, Ray what I'm cutting the hole in is a 55 gallon oil drum
  top. Do you think this nail cutting thing would work for that?? Also I do
  have a router and could there be any way I could use that??
  THANKS ROB
  - Original Message - 
  From: Boyce, Ray
  To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.Com
  Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:34 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Circles in Sheet Metal

  Hi Rob

  The cheapest form of a circle cutting jig is just a piece of wood with a
  hole drilled as the centre point with a screw and nut to lock it in
  position and a nail driven through at the desired diameter with the
  point of the nail used as a cutting edge.
  Just revolve it around until you cut through the metal if it becomes
  dull use another sharp nail.
  You can get metal cutting blades for a Jig Saw and circle cutting tin
  snips also nibblers if you have a compressor.
  Also there are things called trammels which have points both ends which
  boiler makers use for marking out circles.
  But for a one off cut try the wood and nail trick.
  What you did not say is how thick this sheet metal is you are trying to
  cut.
  If it is really thin like sheet copper you could use scissors.
  HTH

  Ray

  **
  This message and its attachments may contain legally
  privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
  intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
  information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
  in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
  e-mail and delete the e-mail.

  Any content of this message and its attachments which
  does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
  must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
  Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
  attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
  **

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  --

  No virus found in

Re: [BlindHandyMan] quiet air conditioner

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, some where I herd about a air conditioner that comes in two parts. The 
compressor sets outside and all you put in your window is the fan and cooling 
coil and that makes it a lot quieter. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Eugene Baroni 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:11 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] quiet air conditioner


  I have to buy a new 25000 b.t.u. airconditioner and since I depend a lot on 
my hearing, I wanted to know if anyone can recommend a brand that is quiet. 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] cock roaches cock roaches and more cock roaches

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, This is one good reason to live in a climate where you have cold weather 
where I live in northern Minnesota I don't think a roach would come around..
ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: Linda 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 1:59 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cock roaches cock roaches and more cock roaches


  Boric acid really works well. We sprinkled it around the edges of the walls, 
under the sink, etc. They can be a real problem in some cities. My husband says 
you can find it in a dollar store. It might be called Roach Powder or insect 
powder, but make sure the main ingredient is boric acid. When we lived in 
Florida we rented a house for a while and the walls had wormwood from the ship 
they got it from. We only lived there until we got our own house six months 
later and the problem really diminished. In Florida one has to be very careful 
about crumbs, dirty dishes, etc., as they will attract things. When we lived in 
Chattanooga I heard a welcome speech for all the teachers' wives and the 
speaker called Chattanooga roach city. 
  Linda

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] home buying

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Yes your right on that damn title insurance and stuff.. My cousin down in 
Texas owns his own title insurance company and he is one rich S.O.B.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 12:20 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] home buying


  Cliff,

  You just touched on a sore spot for me. At least in Pennsylvania, title 
  search and title insurance are required. OK, so I can understand why I 
  need a title search done. I find it a bit frustrating to also have to 
  insure myself against the title searching company not doing their job. 
  What is truly frustrating is that even when I refinance a house I own, I 
  still have to pay for title search and insurance again.

  So, my folks have a house built from scratch, they pay title search and 
  insurance. I purchase the house from them, there have been no owners 
  other than my parents, I have to pay title search and insurance. Now I am 
  refinancing the house and have to pay for title search and insurance. 
  Looks like a money making deal to me. Think I might go into the search 
  and insurance game.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] brazing

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, does any one know any thing about brazing?? So far I have got some MAP gas 
for my hand torch it's the same one that I have used for soldering. Also got 
some brazing rods now what I need to know do you more or less do the brazing 
the same as soldering???
THANKS ROB from Minnesota 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing

[Rob Monitor]

zing". Mills and Boon Limited: London, 1971.
  . P.M.Roberts, "Industrial Brazing Practice" CRC Press, Boca Raton, Florida, 
2004.
  list end

  [
  edit]
  See also
  List of 2 items
  . Welding
  . Soldering
  list end

  [
  edit]
  External links
  List of 5 items
  . The Brazing Guide -
  Information on industrial brazing procedures, atmospheres, alloys and 
equipment
  . The Brazing Book -
  A manual also available in print
  . American Welding Society, publishers of industry standards on brazing
  . AWS Brazing and soldering forum
  . European Association for Brazing and Soldering -
  A detailed technical library and information about brazing services.
  list end

  Blacksmith_anvil_hammer.svg/25px-Blacksmith_anvil_hammer.svg
  Metalworking
  Welding
  Arc welding:
  Shielded metal (MMA) |
  Gas metal (MIG) |
  Flux-cored |
  Submerged |
  Gas tungsten (TIG) |
  Plasma
  Other processes:
  Oxyfuel |
  Resistance |
  Spot |
  Forge |
  Ultrasonic |
  Electron beam |
  Laser beam

  Equipment:
  Power supply |
  Electrode |
  Filler metal |
  Shielding gas |
  Robot |
  Helmet

  Related:
  Heat-affected zone |
  Weldability |
  Residual stress |
  Arc eye |
  Underwater welding

  See also: Brazing |
  Soldering |
  Metalworking |
  Fabrication |
  Casting |
  Machining |
  Metallurgy |
  Jewelry
  Retrieved from "
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brazing";

  Categories:
  Welding |
  Soldering

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  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 4:18 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] brazing

  Hi, does any one know any thing about brazing?? So far I have got some MAP 
gas for my hand torch it's the same one that I have used for soldering. Also 
got some brazing rods now what I need to know do you more or less do the 
brazing the same as soldering???
  THANKS ROB from Minnesota 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, What I'm going to be brazing  is some plumbing parts to a old oil drum. 
Hoping that this MAP gas is going to be hot enough. 
ROB from Minnesota- Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 4:56 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing


  Hi Rob,

  It may be but you are going to have to get the steel you are joining up to 
over 800F all along the seam in order to get the brazing to flow and to get 
sucked into the joint. That is a load of heat.

  Still, it may be possible. Thin sheet metal is a likely candidate I would 
think, what is it you intend to braze?

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 5:34 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing

  Hi, Well from what I was told from a guy down the road is that the MAP gas 
burns a lot hotter then the regular propane gas... That's why I was told that I 
could use my torch... 
  THANKS ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 4:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing

  Hello Rob,

  I lifted the below from Wikipedia. My guess is that you won't get anything 
like enough heat out of a soldering torch to do any significant brazing. I have 
never attempted brazing myself, I would like to be able to do a little welding, 
enough to tack angle iron and tubing but so far haven't had any opportunity to 
learn.

  Good luck and keep us informed. Hope this helps.
  Brazing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
  Your
  continued donations
  keep Wikipedia running!

  Brazing

  From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
  Jump to:
  navigation,
  search
  This article is about the metal joining process. For the cooking technique, 
see
  braising.

  Brazing is a joining process whereby a non-
  ferrous
  filler metal
  or
  alloy
  is heated to melting temperature above 450
  °C
  (842°F), or, by the traditional definition that has been used in the United 
States, above 800°F (425)
  °C
  and distributed between two or more close-fitting parts by
  capillary action.
  At its liquid temperature, the molten filler metal and
  flux
  interacts with a thin layer of the base metal, cooling to form an 
exceptionally strong, sealed joint due to grain structure interaction. With 
certain metals,
  such as Nitinol (Nickel Titanium) and Niobium, a low temperature
  eutectic
  can form. This leads to the bonding of the two metals at a point that can be 
substantially lower than their respective melting temperatures. The brazed
  joint becomes a sandwich of different layers, each
  metallurgically
  linked to the adjacent layers. Common brazements are about 1/3 as strong as 
the materials they join because the metals partially dissolve each other at
  the interface and usually the grain structure and joint alloy is 
uncontrolled. To create high-strength brazes, sometimes a brazement can be
  annealed,
  or cooled at a controlled rate, so that the joint's grain structure and 
alloying is controlled. It is also at 1/3 strength because the metal used to 
braze
  is usually weaker than the substrate metal because it melts at a lower 
temperature, ensuring the substrate does not melt.

  Contents
  [
  hide]
  List of 8 items (contains 2 nested lists)
  . 1 Common Techniques
  List of 4 items nesting level 1
  . 1.1 Silver brazing
  . 1.2 Braze welding
  . 1.3 Cast iron "welding"
  . 1.4 Vacuum brazing
  list end nesting level 1
  . 2 Brazing Fundamentals
  List of 3 items nesting level 1
  . 2.1 Flux
  . 2.2 Brazing strength/Joint geometry
  . 2.3 Filler materials
  list end nesting level 1
  . 3 Advantages of brazing
  . 4 Possible problems
  . 5 Brazing processes
  . 6 Further reading
  . 7 See also
  . 8 External links
  list end

  [
  edit]
  Common Techniques

  [
  edit]
  Silver brazing

  If silver alloy is used, brazing can be referred to as 'silver brazing'. 
Colloquially, the inaccurate terms "silver soldering" or "hard soldering" are 
used,
  to distinguish from the process of low temperature
  soldering
  that is done with solder having a melting point below 450
  °C
  (842
  °F),
  or, as traditionally defined in the United States, having a melting point 
below 800°F or 425
  °C.
  Silver brazing is similar to soldering but higher temperatures are used and 
the filler metal has a significantly different composition and higher melting
  point than
  solder.
  Likewise, silver brazing often requires the prior machining of parts to be 
joined to very close tolerances prior to joining them, to establish a joint gap
  distance of a few micrometres or
  mils
  for proper capillary action during jo

Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes

[Rob Monitor]

HI, This is Rob from Minnesota yes we have some of the biggest mosquitoes in 
the world. What I do is avoid being outside at don and dusk that seems to be 
time that they are the worst. Also I build a big screen porch on my house and 
that's the best way of being outside and not being bothered by them...
ROB from Minnesota - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 10:33 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes


  Yes, bats and purple martins. Special apartment like bird houses are 
apparently their preference.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Chanting Monks 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 8:54 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes

  You could put a bat roost up in a tree on the fringes of the property, or 
where the concentration of bugs is the most noticeable. Bats love mosquitoes 
and other flying insects. If there is shallow/standing water due to poor 
drainage, that can be a breeding ground for mosquitoes, so you might want to 
look into whether or not you have a low-lieing patch of ground where water is 
building up, or if there is such a spot nearby which is contributing to your 
skeeter problem.

  Best,
  Joe Monks

  Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off...

  Chanting Monks Press
  http://www.chantingmonks.com

  Sight Unseen Pictures
  http://www.sightunseenpictures.com
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 9:16 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes

  Ok, I have found a house that might work. it is not the best location, nor 
the best house, but it is a good compromise between the two. We are still 
looking around though. The think I noticed is that the yard, especially in the 
back, is swarming with mosquitoes and other bugs. There is a wooded area on the 
other side of the back fence and I think the source may lye back there. Will 
there be anything I will be able to do about the mosquitoes if I buy the house?

  Jennifer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] spiral saws

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, I'm wondering if you can use a spiral saw to cut holes in a oil drum and is 
so what bits would you use??
THANKS ROB from Minnesota

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Brazing Explained.

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Thanks Ray for this good information on brazing... This helps me out a lot. 
Now maybe I can try some brazing and hope it will work..
THANKS ROB from Minnesota- Original Message - 
  From: Ray Boyce 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2007 5:24 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Brazing Explained.


  Hi Everyone
  Brazing is a joining process whereby a non-
  ferrous
  filler metal
  or
  alloy
  is heated to melting temperature above 450
  °C
  (842°F), or, by the traditional definition that has been used in the United 
  States, above 800°F (425)
  °C
  and distributed between two or more close-fitting parts by
  capillary action.
  At its liquid temperature, the molten filler metal and
  flux
  interacts with a thin layer of the base metal, cooling to form an 
  exceptionally strong, sealed joint due to grain structure interaction. With 
  certain metals,
  such as Nitinol (Nickel Titanium) and Niobium, a low temperature
  eutectic
  can form. This leads to the bonding of the two metals at a point that can be 
  substantially lower than their respective melting temperatures. The brazed
  joint becomes a sandwich of different layers, each
  metallurgically
  linked to the adjacent layers. Common brazements are about 1/3 as strong as 
  the materials they join because the metals partially dissolve each other at
  the interface and usually the grain structure and joint alloy is 
  uncontrolled. To create high-strength brazes, sometimes a brazement can be
  annealed,
  or cooled at a controlled rate, so that the joint's grain structure and 
  alloying is controlled. It is also at 1/3 strength because the metal used to 
  braze
  is usually weaker than the substrate metal because it melts at a lower 
  temperature, ensuring the substrate does not melt.
  Common Techniques

  Silver brazing

  If silver alloy is used, brazing can be referred to as 'silver brazing'. 
  Colloquially, the inaccurate terms "silver soldering" or "hard soldering" 
  are used,
  to distinguish from the process of low temperature
  soldering
  that is done with solder having a melting point below 450
  °C
  (842
  °F),
  or, as traditionally defined in the United States, having a melting point 
  below 800°F or 425
  °C.
  Silver brazing is similar to soldering but higher temperatures are used and 
  the filler metal has a significantly different composition and higher 
  melting
  point than
  solder.
  Likewise, silver brazing often requires the prior machining of parts to be 
  joined to very close tolerances prior to joining them, to establish a joint 
  gap
  distance of a few micrometres or
  mils
  for proper capillary action during joining of parts, whereas soldering does 
  not require gap distances that are nearly this small for successful joining
  of parts. Silver brazing works especially well for joining tubular 
  thick-walled metal pipes, provided the proper fit-up is done prior to 
  joining the parts.

  Braze welding

  In another similar usage, brazing is the use of a
  bronze
  or
  brass
  filler rod coated with flux together with an
  oxyacetylene
  torch, to join pieces of
  steel.
  The American Welding Society prefers to use the term Braze Welding for this 
  process, as capillary attraction is not involved, unlike the prior silver 
  brazing
  example. Braze welding takes place at the melting temperature of the filler 
  (e.g., 870 °C to 980 °C or 1600 °F to 1800 °F for bronze alloys) which is 
  often
  considerably lower than the melting point of the base material (e.g., 1600 
  °C (2900 °F) for mild steel).
  In Braze Welding or Fillet Brazing, a bead of filler material reinforces the 
  joint. A braze-welded tee joint is shown here.
  In Braze Welding or
  Fillet
  Brazing, a bead of filler material reinforces the joint. A braze-welded tee 
  joint is shown here.

  Cast iron "welding"

  The "welding" of
  cast iron
  is usually a brazing operation, with a filler rod made chiefly of
  nickel
  being used although true welding with cast iron rods is also available.

  Vacuum brazing

  Vacuum brazing is another materials joining technique, one that offers 
  extremely clean, superior, flux-free braze joints while providing high 
  integrity
  and strength. The process can be expensive because it is performed inside a 
  vacuum chamber vessel; however, the advantages are significant. For example,
  furnace operating temperatures, when using specialized vacuum vessels, can 
  reach temperatures of 2400 °C. Other high temperature vacuum furnaces are 
  available
  ranging from 1500 °C and up at a much lesser cost. Temperature uniformity is 
  maintained on the work piece when heating in a vacuum, greatly reducing 
  residual
  stresses because of slow heating and cooling cycles. This, in turn, can have 
  a significant impact on the thermal and mechanical properties of the 
  material,
  thus providing unique heat treatment capabilities. One such capability is 
  heat

[BlindHandyMan] car help

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, a friend of mine has a 1984 Dodge 600. The car was given to him for the 
reason that when you start it up the engine has a miss in it. But when you 
drive it and get it up to about 30-40 miles a hour the miss stops. Well he 
replace the plugs and wires cap and roader also did a compression test on it 
and 1 cylinder had 90 psi and the other 3 had 120 psi. Also he put in a new air 
filter and it still has the miss does any one have any ideas??? 
ROB from Minnesota

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator collecting water

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I just had  this with my refrigerator.. What I fond was in the back of the 
refrigerator at the bottom  was a panel that I had to on screw and in there I 
found a drip tube that ran up in the wall of the refrigerator to the freezer. 
But yours is a side by side you mite still find a tube . Well what I had to do 
was take off the bottom of the freezer on the inside of the cabinet there was 
only two screws... Then I found the drain and it was clog up with ice and other 
stuff. Don't know if this will help but good luck...
ROB from Minnesota.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Patterson 
  To: Blind HandyMan 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2007 5:12 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator collecting water


  I have a side by side Refrigerator, about 7 years old now.
  It leaks water on the floor and when this happens I find that the bottom of
  the Refrigerator under the meat drawer has filled with water and is now
  frozen.
  There is no drainage hole what so ever in the bottom of this fridge. The
  only hole I can find is on the side wall and leads to the freezer. This
  hole has a sliding door and we have tried it open and closed and can not
  tell a difference.
  I have cleaned the coils? under the front, and vacuumed everything I could
  on the back. I can not find any drip pan for this thing.
  It does have a filter for the water/ice, which we have to change every
  couple of months, never a problem and the water does not seem to be coming
  from it.
  Just baffled on this, and trying to save a one hundred dollar service call.
  Any ideas?

  Keith Patterson
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Plumbing Supplies, Pipe Fittings, Valves right here at Plumbing Fittings Direct!

[Rob Monitor]

Hi guys and gals, Can any one figure how to get this web site to work so I 
could order some things from them?
THANKS ROB from Minnesota
http://www.plumbingfittingsdirect.com/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plumbing Supplies, Pipe Fittings, Valves right here at Plumbing Fittings Direct!

[Rob Monitor]

YES YOU GUYS I went back into the web site and got it working. Just think it 
was me I didn't know how to use the site at first...
THANKS ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Gallik 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 3:44 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plumbing Supplies, Pipe Fittings, Valves right 
here at Plumbing Fittings Direct!


  I'm using JAWS 7.0 and IE 6.xxx; had no difficulties navigating the site
  neither.
  
  Bill Gallik
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - "What others think of us would be of little moment did it not, when known,
  so deeply tinge what we think of ourselves."
  - Paul Valery
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Mike Rusk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 6:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plumbing Supplies, Pipe Fittings, Valves right
  here at Plumbing Fittings Direct!

  I went, no problem going through the links. I am using Window-eyes 6.1 and
  IE7.
  Looks like you can by a single item or bulk.

  ----- Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 12:17 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Plumbing Supplies, Pipe Fittings, Valves right
  here at Plumbing Fittings Direct!

  Hi guys and gals, Can any one figure how to get this web site to work so I
  could order some things from them?
  THANKS ROB from Minnesota
  http://www.plumbingfittingsdirect.com/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Idea seeking

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, you mite try JB WATERWELD it's made for using in water you can get it at 
most auto parts stores...
  - Original Message - 
  From: rs_denis 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 4:19 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Idea seeking


  would epoxy putty work to close a hole in the water tank? Ron Denis 


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] oiling air-tools

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I'm wondering if a guy could use  a little 3 in 1 oil to oil air-tools?? 
Seems that I lost my air-tool oil and need to oil one of them and wont be going 
 to town for a wile or if any ideas on any other type of oil to use...
THANKS ROB from Minnesota

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] air nibbler

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Well just yesterday I got my new AIR NIBBLER by good old UPS... Hope some 
one here knows some thing about the air nibblers. What happen to me is that I 
made about 6 cuts with this thing and it stopped cutting. Now does any one how 
a air nibbler works and maybe what is wrong with it the place I bought it from 
is closed till Monday and I would like to see if I can get it working before 
then...
THANKS ROB from Minnesota

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] air nibbler

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, Air nibbler is a air tool for cutting sheet metal and other type material. 
The air nibbler that I have will cut up to 16 gage metal and other stuff. OH YA 
I got my air nibbler to work today don't really know what I did but now it 
works just one of those things that we will never know why...
ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: Cy Selfridge 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 3:40 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] air nibbler


  Okay, what on Earth is an Air Nibbler?
  Cy, the Ancient Okie... 

  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Rob Monitor
  Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 3:02 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] air nibbler

  HI, Well just yesterday I got my new AIR NIBBLER by good old UPS... Hope
  some one here knows some thing about the air nibblers. What happen to me is
  that I made about 6 cuts with this thing and it stopped cutting. Now does
  any one how a air nibbler works and maybe what is wrong with it the place I
  bought it from is closed till Monday and I would like to see if I can get it
  working before then...
  THANKS ROB from Minnesota

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007
  3:50 PM

  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007
  3:50 PM


  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: question Rob, Re: [BlindHandyMan] air nibbler

[Rob Monitor]

YES, I do believe that it is the same. Because I was curious  about that same 
thing and took a peace of 18 gage wire and held it next to a 18 gage peace of 
sheet metal and it looked about the same thickness..
ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 8:26 PM
  Subject: question Rob, Re: [BlindHandyMan] air nibbler


  Is 16 guage sheet stock the same as a 16 AWg wire?
  Always wondered if it was the same scale or different just to confuse us 
  :)

  On Sun, 29 Jul 2007, Rob Monitor wrote:

  > Hi, Air nibbler is a air tool for cutting sheet metal and other type 
material. The air nibbler that I have will cut up to 16 gage metal and other 
stuff. OH YA I got my air nibbler to work today don't really know what I did 
but now it works just one of those things that we will never know why...
  > ROB from Minnesota
  > - Original Message -
  > From: Cy Selfridge
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 3:40 PM
  > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] air nibbler
  >
  >
  > Okay, what on Earth is an Air Nibbler?
  > Cy, the Ancient Okie...
  >
  > _
  >
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > On Behalf Of Rob Monitor
  > Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 3:02 PM
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] air nibbler
  >
  > HI, Well just yesterday I got my new AIR NIBBLER by good old UPS... Hope
  > some one here knows some thing about the air nibblers. What happen to me is
  > that I made about 6 cuts with this thing and it stopped cutting. Now does
  > any one how a air nibbler works and maybe what is wrong with it the place I
  > bought it from is closed till Monday and I would like to see if I can get it
  > working before then...
  > THANKS ROB from Minnesota
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  > No virus found in this incoming message.
  > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007
  > 3:50 PM
  >
  > No virus found in this outgoing message.
  > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007
  > 3:50 PM
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loft

[Rob Monitor]

HI GUYS, At one time I was looking at  web sites for the blind type stuff  some 
thing to do one raining day. Well some where I seen a talking tape that used AA 
batteries instead of the 9 volt type but like ever thing else I don't remember 
which one it was... But if you find it maybe it would not be  so much of a 
battery hog I have the same thing with mine its eats batteries up real fast...
ROB from Minnesota- Original Message - 
  From: NLG 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 9:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loft


  I bought mine from Cobolt Systems in the UK but I also see it on ILA's web 
site.

  ILA's web site is:

  http://www.independentliving.com

  Information for Colbolt Systems is:

  Cobolt Systems Ltd

  The Old Mill House,
  Mill Road, Reedham,
  Norwich, Norfolk, NR13 3TL,
  England
  Telephone : U.K. 01493-700172
  Telephone : Overseas (44) 1493-700172
  Fax : U.K. 01493-701037
  Fax : Overseas (44) 1493-701037
  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Web site: http://www.cobolt.co.uk

  Hope this helps.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 07:27
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Loft

  Any idea where you might have purchased your talking tape
  from?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NLG
  Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 9:25 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loft

  I am on my second talking tape measure. The first one
  literally took a hit. That is I dropped it off the third
  story roof onto a concrete sidewalk. Although it survived
  in one piece, it no longer would talk. I packaged it up and
  sent it back across the pond to the place I purchased it
  asking them to repair it if possible. A few days later I
  got a brand new one back and to my amazement there was no
  charge!

  In my opinion they are battery hogs. I find that when the
  battery gets low they also act flaky, stuttering or some
  times just keep talking nonsense even when the tape is fully
  retracted. Having said this, I have found that replacing the
  battery has always resolved this problem.

  Like you, I have also heard others talking about issues they
  have with them but I can honestly say I have had no other
  problems and if mine quits working, I would buy another. 

  P.S. I can't tell you for certain, how long I have had
  mine, but I guess it has been at least 5 years or so.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 20:07
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Loft

  Well said my friend...
  The project is going to be inside my shop on my property
  behind my 6 foot chainlink fence that is topped off with
  my
  barbed wire and unless we now have wood police in my
  little
  corner of paradise I will probably be ok.
  We don't get frost within 200 miles of where I am however,
  I
  will probably consult my engineer friend on that part of
  it
  because I damn sure don't want my project to come down
  around my ears.
  What is your take on these talking tape measures? I have
  heard both good and bad about them. 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NLG
  Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 6:20 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loft

  First of all, if this project has to be inspected, it
  matters not what I, you or anyone else on this list
  suggests. The only thing you can do is go by what the
  government appointed inspector tells you what has to be.
  In
  most cases, this little piss head is some recently college
  grad that knows absolutely nothing about the real world
  and
  goes only by what he read in a book, written by another
  piss
  head that never hammered a nail, let alone built anything.

  That being said: If you can do this without inspections,
  your plan should work.

  A couple of observations/suggestions I have for you are:
  Instead of using a 4 inch by 24 foot ledger bolted to the
  outside wall, you would be better off building this out of
  2
  inch by 8 inch what ever it takes to span the 24 foot,
  bolting it securely to the wall, then putting another
  layer
  of 2 bys on top of it, staggering the seems to complete
  the
  ledger. (the less distance the bolts stick out from the
  block wall the better).

  I also would go with 16 inch centers on the joysts, giving
  you more stability and load capacity, (you never know what
  you might store up there) if you are like me.

  For the beam, I would also build it out of 2inch by 8 inch
  , staggering the seems. This should be strong enough to
  skin
  a deer on, but I wouldn't want to pull an engine on it.

  For the supports, I would use 3 inch pipe with a flange on
  it to place beneath the beam. and I surely wouldn't dig

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Tape Measures | Measuring Tapes - Talking Tape Measure

[Rob Monitor]

HI GUYS, Well I just ordered one of the talking tape that uses the A type 
battery. Will let you all know how it works when I get it..
ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 9:20 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Tape Measures | Measuring Tapes - Talking 
Tape Measure


  This site has the talking tape measure that uses the a battery.
  When/if I replace mine I will go this route as opposed to the 9 volt.

  http://www.lssproducts.com/product/4120/talking-tape-measure

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measures

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Just got my new talking tape from LSS PRODUCTS today... Well it seem to be 
built a lot better then the other one I got it feels a little smaller and just 
more sturdier. The buttons are little different but easy to learn. Have not 
dropped it yet so can't say how it will hold up to that.
ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 4:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measures


  My Cobalt talking tape measure is going to go back to England I think. 
  This weekend it was driving me crazy. It was actually giving consistently 
  wrong measurements. Then it would start giving me the crazy measurements 
  like 2792 inches. A battery change didn't seem to help it much. It also 
  has a loose connection from a drop, so often when I am trying to take a 
  measurement it will reset itself just by moving the case around.

  A hundred bucks for this is insane, but we don't have many options.

  TOM! TOM! TOM! What can we do? How much are encoder wheels these days?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] What Do You Want Information ON?

[Rob Monitor]

HI, a wile back Ray had sent a thing on how gas refrigerators work could you 
send that again I lost it some how... The article talked about ammonia is used 
for cooling...
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 4:18 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] What Do You Want Information ON?


  what are some forms of electric resistance heating?

  On Mon, 27 Aug 2007, Max Robinson wrote:

  > Electric resistance heating is 100 percent efficient. All of the electric
  > energy is converted into heat. It's the only 100 percent efficient thing we
  > have.
  >
  > Regards.
  >
  > Max. K 4 O D S.
  >
  > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >
  > Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  > Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
  > Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
  >
  > To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >
  > - Original Message -
  > From: "Geoff Eden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: 
  > Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 9:29 PM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] What Do You Want Information ON?
  >
  >
  >> It's probably useful to take a broad look at the efficiency of electric
  >> heat. Considering that running a coal generator is only slightly above
  >> 30%
  >> efficiency, hence throwing away 70%. Then considering the line loss
  >> between
  >> the generator plant and your home, which is often discussed as around 10%.
  >> Then to further discuss the inefficiency of electrical resistance heating,
  >> which, I understand is only about 35%, then the whole picture of
  >> electrical
  >> heating fuel waste comes into perspective.
  >>
  >> Geoff
  >> - Original Message -
  >> From: "Scott Howell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  >> To: 
  >> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 6:16 PM
  >> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] What Do You Want Information ON?
  >>
  >>
  >> So, lets add anothr question to this. Does it make sense to lower the
  >> temp at night in the home or leave it set at the same temp day and
  >> night? The thought is by lowering it 3 to 4 degrees at night while
  >> your asleep, it would run less, but then if the heatpump has to fire
  >> up the backup heat source which is likely electric itself and run at
  >> the same time to raise the temp up the 3 to 4 degrees, have you really
  >> saved anything.
  >>
  >> Scott
  >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >>
  >>
  >>
  >> On Aug 27, 2007, at 11:21 AM, Dan Rossi wrote:
  >>
  >>> Actually, I think that a heat pump is supposed to be more efficient
  >>> than
  >>> just straight electric heat, but not exactly sure how it works out
  >>> that
  >>> way.
  >>>
  >>> --
  >>> Blue skies.
  >>> Dan Rossi
  >>> Carnegie Mellon University.
  >>> E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >>> Tel: (412) 268-9081
  >>>
  >>>
  >>
  >>
  >>
  >> To listen to the show archives go to link
  >> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  >> or
  >> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >>
  >> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  >> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >>
  >> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  >> List Members At The Following address:
  >> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  >>
  >> Visit the archives page at the following address
  >> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  >>
  >> If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the
  >> following
  >> address for more information:
  >> http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com
  >>
  >> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  >> list
  >> just send a blank message to:
  >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >> Yahoo! Groups Links
  >>
  >>
  >>
  >>
  >>
  >> To listen to the show archives go to link
  >> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  >> or
  >> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >>
  >> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  >> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >>
  >> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  >> List Members At The Following address:
  >> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  >>
  >> Visit the archives page at the following address
  >> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  >>
  >> If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the
  >> following address for more information:
  >> http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com
  >>
  >> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  >> list just send a blank message to:
  >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >> Yahoo! Groups Links
  >>
  >>
  >>
  >>
  >>
  >>
  >> --
  >> No virus found in this incoming message.
  >> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  >> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.9/975 - Release Date: 8/26/2007
  >> 9:34 PM
  >>
  >>
  >
  >
  >
  > 

[BlindHandyMan] here is a nail gun for you

[Rob Monitor]

- Original Message - 
From: Boyce, Ray 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 6:27 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review


Hi Everyone
GMC Website -
http://www.gmcompany.com

GMC 18v Magnesium Strike Allnailer
Review

So you have a nail to drive... what are your options? Naturally, the first that 
probably comes to mind is the trusty old hammer (in its many variations).
Next on the list is probably the pneumatic nail gun (and its many variations). 
But what comes after that? Suddenly the options become extremely limited.

Well, Global Machinery Company (GMC) is attempting to add yet another nail 
driving tool variant to the list of possibilities with their new Magnesium 
Allnailer
tool. It promises to offer all the ease of a power tool but without the 
restriction of expensive or hard to find nails for pneumatic tools. Plus, it's
a world's first in terms of nailer design! Let's see how it works, and whether 
it does the job it is designed to do well.

GMC Magnesium Allnailer
When I first saw and heard about the Allnailer, I immediately thought... "here 
we go, another cordless nail gun that is probably not powerful enough to
drive anything more than brads into softwoods", like many other cordless nail 
guns and bradders flooding the market. When one purchases such a tool, they
often end up having to buy a pneumatic nail gun and compressor because they 
discover the cordless nailers are just not up to scratch for most tasks. So
what makes the Allnailer different to these other cordless nailers?

Well, to begin with, the Allnailer functions a little differently to most nail 
guns. Instead of a single, rapid burst of air that is used to thrust a driver
on conventional pneumatic nailers, the Allnailer uses somewhat of a continuous 
hammering action, much like you would experience with an air hammer chisel,
or a jackhammer. So the nail is driven in with successive blows rather than one 
single burst of power. This alone offers benefits over other nail gun types
which we will see later. But for now, lets take a look at the features of the 
Allnailer from the outside.

Packaging and Contents
The Allnailer ships in a plastic molded case. It offers great protection during 
shipping, and when transporting the tool around. As a result, the tool arrived
free of dings, dents or other shipping damage. Inside the case you will find 
the Allnailer itself, two 18v batteries, and a user manual. Naturally, being
a "new" tool in terms of design, every new owner should read the instruction 
guides. This nailer works differently to pneumatic nailers, and hence, requires
different steps and technique to drive nails. The full color product manual 
will provide all the instruction you will need to operate the tool correctly
and safely.

The Power Packs + Charger
The Allnailer ships with two 18v Nickel Cadmium (NiCad) cordless batteries. 
Each has a 1.5Ah capacity, which is probably average for a reasonably good 
quality
power tool. The batteries connect to the bottom of the Allnailer handle via 
standard battery clips that are secure, but easy to remove when you need to
switch a battery or charge one up. The batteries actually slide onto the bottom 
of the tool and then click in place to secure them. Naturally, a mains
charger is included in the kit for restoring battery charge levels. In the 
marketing blurb it states the charger is a 1-hour rapid charger. I have been
skeptical of these claims with other product reviews in the past because the 
batteries end up taking anywhere between 2 to 4 hours to charge. The 1 hour
charger in this kit however does indeed seem to rate to the one hour mark. I 
timed the first charge cycle of the batteries and it came in at around 1 hour
15 minutes, but it could have actually finished charging 5 minutes prior to 
this as I was only really checking it every 5 minutes or so. Bear in mind that
charge cycle time will likely decrease with future recharges, likely bringing 
charge time down to the one hour mark, and in some cases, even less.

The charger itself features 2 LED lights to display charge status. The battery 
is fully charged when the green ("charge complete") light is illuminated.
If the red light is on, the battery is still in the charging cycle. Nothing 
complicated here, but it works just fine. The battery mounts on the charger
at an angle to one side. This is pretty insignificant however. Of course, with 
two batteries in the kit, you should always have one charged and ready to
go. One can be in use while the second is charging. Each battery has a rubber 
protective coating around the base. I guess it helps protect the edges if
you knock it around a bit, or at least protect your work surfaces or benches 
from casing scratches.

Battery Life
Battery life seems pretty good. While I haven't yet needed the tool for an 
all-day nailing task, I have managed to use the tool successfully for framing
three interior walls from scratch and there was n

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Do you have $900 to spend on a door lock

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I really don't have any thing in my house that is worth $900 really I do 
but I also have insurance.- Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 10:10 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Do you have $900 to spend on a door lock


  My new laptop has a fingerprint lock on it. It is a pain in the ass. I 
  have to swipe my finger multiple times before it recognizes me. For some 
  reason it refuses to recognize me after recovering from hibernate mode.

  Having this on your house would mean a power source, and battery backup. 
  Sure, I assume you would also have to have a physical key backup, but if 
  you get used to the fingerprint thing, you probably would stop carrying 
  the key. Why else would you have the finger print thingee.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] rolling storage/workshop.

[Rob Monitor]

HI, As far as the tires go you could just put some jack stands under it by 
the four corners. The door you could take off the out side skin and it should 
be a 2 by 2  frame and you just have to  put in a header and frame a hole for 
the door and then you could use some plywood on the outside around the door.
ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: Roger Bachelder 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 3:13 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] rolling storage/workshop.


  Hi Robert,

  I would think you could pour some concrete slabs and rest the frame on them.
  assuming that it will be there for quite some time. Or you could build some
  kind of supports from some 2 by 10's or even bigger if you wanted . Just a
  thought.

  Roger C Bachelder 3rd
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]


  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of robert moore
  Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 2:03 PM
  To: Blind Handyman
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] rolling storage/workshop.

  My Wife and I rent an old farmhouse and there is a lot of room out here.
  Since we don't own I am not going to put up a structure. I am giving some
  thought to finding a retired 40 foot closed trailor. Any one know where I
  might look for such a beast? If I do find one I wonder how one would go
  about putting in a service door. I thought some thing like a 30 or 32 inch
  house door would do the trick. I would rather not use the big roll up door
  in the back to get in every time If I could set up a more handy access. Then
  I would just need to set up a set of temporary set of steps to the door.
  This is of cource providing I am allowed by my Land Lord to do this.
  By the way there is a cement pad out here that is more than big enough to
  store this on.
  Last thought I had on this topic is what happens when the tires start to go
  flat? I am sure even if it had good tires, this is bound to happen. If I
  lost too much on one side or the other I think it might start to lean a bit
  too much.

  Any ideas.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] storing a car

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, I just went to the blind handy  man web page and went threw all 400 and 
some thing  like that. But I could not find the article about storing a car for 
the winter. The article talked about what kinds of  things to do to your car 
for long time storage. Like how to keep out bugs and mice and things like that. 
Well if any one can remember the article could you  please put it up here
THANKS ROB from MINNESOTA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Winterizing Your Super Coupe and Your Other Toys

[Rob Monitor]

THANKS this the article that I was looking for. Just could not remember 
what it was called...
THANKS ROB from MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ray Boyce 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 5:49 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Winterizing Your Super Coupe and Your Other Toys


  Before you put your car away for the season give it a good wash and wax job. 
  It is VERY IMPORTANT to always store your car clean. Don't forget to wash 
  off
  the undercarriage. After all, that's were most of the rust starts. A good 
  coat of wax on the car will protect the finish against stains if something 
  happens
  to get on it during the time it is being stored.
  If you use a car cover, put it on while the car is clean and dry to protect 
  against dirt, dust and possible scratches. DO NOT cover your car with 
  plastic
  or one of those blue tarps that you can get at the hardware store. It only 
  traps moisture, and trapping moisture between the finish and a piece of 
  plastic
  will make the paint bubble and rust will begin to form.
  Take your vehicle for a drive and get everything warmed up before you park 
  it. By getting your car up to operating temperature it helps to burn off 
  contaminants
  in the oil and it also gets rid of moisture in the crankcase and the exhaust 
  system. NOTE: Don't start your car during the winter unless you plan to 
  drive
  it or allow it to get up to normal operating temperatures. "Short running" 
  the engine will allow moisture to build up in the crankcase and exhaust 
  system.
  Change your oil and oil filter. Fresh oil will protect the internal parts of 
  your engine better because there are less hydro-carbons and other 
  contaminates
  in fresh oil. If you would rather change your oil in the spring, be sure to 
  do it as soon as possible after you get the car out of storage.
  Check and fill all major fluids, including brake fluid, clutch fluid 
  reservoir (5-speed owners) and supercharger oil (On SC's). Also be sure your 
  antifreeze
  is clean and fresh to avoid the cooling system from freezing or possible 
  corrosion.
  Fill the gas tank just before you park the car for the winter. (This will 
  help prevent moisture from condensing inside the tank). Remember, premium 
  unleaded
  gasoline without alcohol is the only thing you should use in your SC's. If 
  you are not planning to visit your car during the winter, be sure to add a 
  good
  fuel stabilizer.
  Remove the battery and keep it charged. When storing a battery you should 
  keep at as close to room temperature as possible and it should be kept off 
  of
  the floor so that it doesn't discharge. Store it on a wooden shelf or on a 
  large block of wood (a piece of 4x4) several inches off of the floor to keep
  it from discharging.
  Put steel wool or rolled up scotch-brite pads in the tailpipes and also in 
  the air-intake openings to keep mice from using your car as a food pantry.
  But remember to remove them before trying to Start.
  On cars with 4 and 5-speed transmissions you can place a board on the clutch 
  pedal rod to partially depress it, that helps to avoid the risk of the 
  clutch
  and flywheel rusting together. (If you are only storing the car for a few 
  months this really shouldn't be necessary).
  Never set the parking brake. The brake shoes or pads could stick to the 
  drums or rotors or the cables could rust or freeze up during storage.
  If you store your car off of the ground, (on jack stands), the stands should 
  be under the suspension. If not, damage to the shocks and other suspension
  parts can occur.
  If you store your car on the ground be sure to over-inflate the tires 
  slightly. Five to 15 pounds should be enough. Even tires that are new or in 
  good condition
  can lose around one or two pounds of pressure per month. When you get your 
  car back out in the spring, re-check the pressures to insure against tire 
  damage.
  Put a moisture-absorber, like baking soda, inside the car to keep mildew 
  from starting inside the cars interior. (From mildew come mold, from mold 
  comes
  a new interior). If you store your car inside a heated area leave the 
  windows opened about 1/4 to 1/2 inch to allow the air to circulate.
  Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar) products before 
  storing your car. They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can 
  encourage
  mildew and mold. (I did the dash on my Chevelle one time before I stored it 
  and it took all of the next summer to get that musty smell out of the car).
  Mouse traps or poisons placed around the car is also a good idea, BUT be 
  sure that your dogs and cats can't get to it. Place them around the car 
  every several
  feet. Leave your sun visors down so it is more difficult for mice to get 
  into the headliner if they do get into the car. NOTE* Mothballs will repel 
  some
  pests, but the smell stays in the car for a long time

Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical cord

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, why don't you take a plug and light switch and box and a outlet and box and 
make your own... OH YA don't forget the cord... Why I say this is because I 
just make one like it but I put it  on a pole with a base it also has   a light 
on it to for the sited people. This thing is nice for working on cars and 
things where you need a outlet for power tools and the sited help need a 
light 
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 8:45 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical cord


  I have not seen switched electrical sockets in North America though it is 
common in the UK and possibly other European countries. You could change out 
the box for a double box with a switch in one side wired to the plug on the 
other side, this is of course almost a very small rewiring job.

  Another satisfactory solution might be to make up your own supplementary 
short extension cord of very heavy duty extension cord (assuming your 
compressor is a high amperage machine) with a plug, inline switch and a socket. 
You could even buy a suitable length cord of sufficient gauge with moulded ends 
and cut it at a suitable point and insert an inline switch. Sometimes finding a 
satisfactory inline switch can be a challenge, something with big enough 
orifices to receive the heavy cable. I suppose you could use one of those 
plastic electrical boxes and a standard light switch, it wouldn't look quite so 
elegant.

  I did this some years ago to an extension cord for the Christmas tree since I 
always seemed to be crawling on my belly under the darn tree to plug it in or 
unplug it.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: robert moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 8:37 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electrical cord

  This thread got me thinking.
  Does any one make what looks like a standard outlet like the ones that we
  see all over our house that you can put into a standard outlet with some
  type of on off switch on the side or bottome. I have my air compressor
  unplugged and I have to plug it in every time I want to use it. Not a huge
  deel but it would be nice to just flip the switch and turn it on and I don't
  intend on doing or having any one do any wiring in the garage.
  I could use a power strip I suppose but I was kind of thinking some thing
  like a power strip only more like a power block.
  I have seen ones that you plug into a 2 socket outlet that has six sockets
  but never one with a power on off switch.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Larry Stansifer
  Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 3:05 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com; blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical cord

  Bill,

  You might also try craft or hobby shops. I have a collection of 1/18th
  scale formula one cars in a couple of show cases and they use somewhat the
  same setup to back light the displays.

  At 02:07 PM 10/18/2007 -0500, Bill Benson wrote:
  >Dear List members,
  >
  >I have an electrical cord probably six feet long with a standard two prong
  >plug on one end, an on-off wheel switch in the middle, and a socket on the
  >other end into which you can screw a night light 7 watt bulb. This is to
  >put inside various figurines, etc. that then light up. Would anyone know
  >where I could find such a cord? I don't think Home Depot has them, though
  >one would think they would. Hope someone can maybe help.
  >Bill Benson
  >e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  >
  >To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html 
  >or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  
  >
  >The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  
  >
  >Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  >List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ 
  >
  >Visit the archives page at the following address
  > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  
  >
  >If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the
  >following address for more information:
  > http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com
  
  >
  >For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  >list 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] I am done with the roof.

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Yes the roof thing can be lots of fun. Well I heat my house about 90 
percent of the time with wood. So about every two months or so I go up on the 
roof and clean my chimney with a chimney brush. That was not to bad tell two 
years ago I had a metal roof put on and now in the winter it can be really 
slippery.. 
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Boop 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:09 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] I am done with the roof.


  Hey Dale,
  I still have enough vision to be dangerous, and I still
  do the "butt walk". Whatever makes you feel and stay safe.

  Boop

  Walking around on the roof being a total. I think I will stick
  to scooting my large buttocks around foot by foot.

  Dale



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] nail gun

[Rob Monitor]

- Original Message - 
From: Boyce, Ray 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 6:27 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review


Hi Everyone
GMC Website -
http://www.gmcompany.com

GMC 18v Magnesium Strike Allnailer
Review

So you have a nail to drive... what are your options? Naturally, the first that 
probably comes to mind is the trusty old hammer (in its many variations).
Next on the list is probably the pneumatic nail gun (and its many variations). 
But what comes after that? Suddenly the options become extremely limited.

Well, Global Machinery Company (GMC) is attempting to add yet another nail 
driving tool variant to the list of possibilities with their new Magnesium 
Allnailer
tool. It promises to offer all the ease of a power tool but without the 
restriction of expensive or hard to find nails for pneumatic tools. Plus, it's
a world's first in terms of nailer design! Let's see how it works, and whether 
it does the job it is designed to do well.

GMC Magnesium Allnailer
When I first saw and heard about the Allnailer, I immediately thought... "here 
we go, another cordless nail gun that is probably not powerful enough to
drive anything more than brads into softwoods", like many other cordless nail 
guns and bradders flooding the market. When one purchases such a tool, they
often end up having to buy a pneumatic nail gun and compressor because they 
discover the cordless nailers are just not up to scratch for most tasks. So
what makes the Allnailer different to these other cordless nailers?

Well, to begin with, the Allnailer functions a little differently to most nail 
guns. Instead of a single, rapid burst of air that is used to thrust a driver
on conventional pneumatic nailers, the Allnailer uses somewhat of a continuous 
hammering action, much like you would experience with an air hammer chisel,
or a jackhammer. So the nail is driven in with successive blows rather than one 
single burst of power. This alone offers benefits over other nail gun types
which we will see later. But for now, lets take a look at the features of the 
Allnailer from the outside.

Packaging and Contents
The Allnailer ships in a plastic molded case. It offers great protection during 
shipping, and when transporting the tool around. As a result, the tool arrived
free of dings, dents or other shipping damage. Inside the case you will find 
the Allnailer itself, two 18v batteries, and a user manual. Naturally, being
a "new" tool in terms of design, every new owner should read the instruction 
guides. This nailer works differently to pneumatic nailers, and hence, requires
different steps and technique to drive nails. The full color product manual 
will provide all the instruction you will need to operate the tool correctly
and safely.

The Power Packs + Charger
The Allnailer ships with two 18v Nickel Cadmium (NiCad) cordless batteries. 
Each has a 1.5Ah capacity, which is probably average for a reasonably good 
quality
power tool. The batteries connect to the bottom of the Allnailer handle via 
standard battery clips that are secure, but easy to remove when you need to
switch a battery or charge one up. The batteries actually slide onto the bottom 
of the tool and then click in place to secure them. Naturally, a mains
charger is included in the kit for restoring battery charge levels. In the 
marketing blurb it states the charger is a 1-hour rapid charger. I have been
skeptical of these claims with other product reviews in the past because the 
batteries end up taking anywhere between 2 to 4 hours to charge. The 1 hour
charger in this kit however does indeed seem to rate to the one hour mark. I 
timed the first charge cycle of the batteries and it came in at around 1 hour
15 minutes, but it could have actually finished charging 5 minutes prior to 
this as I was only really checking it every 5 minutes or so. Bear in mind that
charge cycle time will likely decrease with future recharges, likely bringing 
charge time down to the one hour mark, and in some cases, even less.

The charger itself features 2 LED lights to display charge status. The battery 
is fully charged when the green ("charge complete") light is illuminated.
If the red light is on, the battery is still in the charging cycle. Nothing 
complicated here, but it works just fine. The battery mounts on the charger
at an angle to one side. This is pretty insignificant however. Of course, with 
two batteries in the kit, you should always have one charged and ready to
go. One can be in use while the second is charging. Each battery has a rubber 
protective coating around the base. I guess it helps protect the edges if
you knock it around a bit, or at least protect your work surfaces or benches 
from casing scratches.

Battery Life
Battery life seems pretty good. While I haven't yet needed the tool for an 
all-day nailing task, I have managed to use the tool successfully for framing
three interior walls from scratch and there was n

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rats, Rats and Rats??

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Here is a could example of a place that the RAT ZAPPER would be a good way 
of getting this pesky guy. You could just put the ZAPPER right by where he is 
chewing threw the hose and I bet you would get him...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Max Robinson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rats, Rats and Rats??


  The flex hose transitions to metal tubing below the floor. It's only inside 
  the living part of the house. You must be right.

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  - Original Message - 
  From: "Victor Gouveia" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:00 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rats, Rats and Rats??

  > Hi Max,
  >
  > Does a portion of the hose sit on the outside of the house?
  >
  > If it doesn't, I think it's safe to assume that puppy is coming from 
  > inside
  > the house and drilling out.
  >
  > Like I said, if the screen is hole free, and there are no parts of the 
  > hose
  > that sit on the outside of the house, that's the only conclusion I can 
  > think
  > of.
  >
  > Victor
  >
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  > or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  >
  > Visit the archives page at the following address
  > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  >
  > If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the 
  > following address for more information:
  > http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com
  >
  > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
  > list just send a blank message to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Yahoo! Groups Links
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > -- 
  > No virus found in this incoming message.
  > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.10/1091 - Release Date: 
  > 10/24/2007 2:31 PM
  >
  > 



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I have a circular saw for cutting plywood and large things like that. My 
son got me a circular saw guide from sears with clamps that hook  on the saw 
and you can cut up to 2 foot with it. Works really good...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 7:12 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table


  Wow! Great post Dale, thanks for taking the time to explain. And, I truly
  did have problems holding everything together while trying to set the depth
  on a circ saw, maybe it's time for a table saw like John has.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 6:51 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table

  There are a couple of ways to perform dado cuts with a table saw. The very
  best way is with a stacked dado head. This is a pair of saw blades separated
  by a suitable number of what are called chippers. A chipper is a somewhat
  'S' shaped bit of metal wider in the middle with a hole through it to slide
  over the arbor on the table saw. At the tips of the 'S' the metal of the
  chipper is widened. These days this is usually done with a piece of carbide.
  The thickness of the chippers varies and there are washers otherwise called
  shims which can also be fitted between the blades and chippers or between
  the chippers. You add chippers and shims between the blades until you get
  the width you require for your dado cut.

  A second way uses a dado blade also often referred to as a wobble blade.
  This is a blade mounted against an angled, I don't know how else to describe
  it. It forms a sort of wedge in such a way that you can turn this device to
  alter the amount of wedge that the wobble blade rests against. This has the
  effect of tilting the blade so when it turns it wobbles from side-to-side
  thereby cutting a wide groove as it passes. the width can be adjusted by
  adjusting the shape of that wedge and thus the displacement of the wobble.

  There are issues with this approach, perhaps the most significant one being
  that the floor of the groove will not be absolutely flat but rather slightly
  arced.

  The third way that comes to mind and the one I often use for a single
  application mostly because I am lazy is to set the edge of the blade to one
  edge of the desired location of the dado and lock in the rip fence then push
  the board through. You may set it a little short then move the fence in very
  small increments to accurately locate the one edge. You then just keep
  moving the fence about the width of the saw blade and sequentially run the
  board through until you have traveled the fence the required distance for
  the width of the dado you want.

  This has the disadvantage that often the floor of the dado will be a little
  like corduroy which I argue leaves a place for excess glu to inhabit. It is
  also fairly easy to get your groove just a little wider than you wanted.

  All of these methods require that the saw is free of a blade guard of
  course. The real dado sets also require a table insert with a wider hole for
  the blade to protrude through. Usually dado sets are smaller, 6 or 8 inch
  diameter. The stacked head saws the two outer edges while the chippers
  chisel out the middle something like a planer would do.

  Setting the depth of the dado is generally easiest using a table saw because
  of the size of the table. My favorite method uses a step gauge one of my
  daughters sent to me a couple of Christmases ago. This is a flat bar of
  aluminium more or less trapezoidal in shape. Each sloped end has a series of
  quarter inch steps cut in it, at one end they are offset by an eighth of an
  inch so on one end the steps are 8th inch, 3 8th inch, 5 8th inch and so on.
  The opposite end are quarter inch, half, three quarters and so on. I figure
  usually 3 8ths depth in 3/4ths inch panels so I set the gauge on the table
  top and raise the blade until it is just touching the appropriate step. I
  spin the blade by hand listening for the evidence of it just barely skimming
  the appropriate step then lock that height in. I don't and never have owned
  a wobble blade I expect it might be a little tougher to set that way. I also
  use my step gauge to set router bit height.

  You cannot or rather you should not ever attempt to mount a dado style
  cutter into a hand held circular saw.

  This leaves you with one or two variations on my lazy man's dado done on the
  table saw. You can and do however continue to use the blade guard on your
  circular saw.

  Cutting a dado with a circular saw can be done in at least a couple of ways.

  Using a pencil mark of course is the traditional way, both sides of the dado
  are marked and you saw between the marks in several passes. Few of us can

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: audible level

[Rob Monitor]

hi, what is rnib and do they have a web site??? I would be interested in one 
of the ball-bearing level...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA- Original Message - 
From: "David W Wood" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 5:19 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Re: audible level


> Hi all:
>
> I too have one of the RNIB  ball-bearing type of levels.
> Likewise, the ball has made a bid for freedom from time to time but has
> returned.
> The track also has occasionally acquired the odd little burr, but has been
> milled out by a friend with metal shop facilities.
> The audible one which I have was also bought from the RNIB, although it is
> about 2 feet long and should therefore give greater accuracy, the
> connections in the bubble are a little suspect.
>
> The best one which I have is a piece of aluminium U with a vertical stop 
> at
> each end, onto which I place a ball bearing - this  is about 4 feet long 
> and
> useful for levelling battons for lean-to roves, kitchen and workshop 
> benches
> etc.
>
> BTW: I have a wood working workshop with large lathe, pillar drills,
> thicknessing planer, large and small band saws, planer, circular saw - and
> more electric equipment, and masses of hand tools - mainly old and 
> inherited
> or bought at boot sales.
>
> David
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
> Sent: 05 November 2007 23:14
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: audible level
>
> Gee, somehow I missed the original post. I have the level and although it
> gets very little use it works great for me. It has a low pitch and a high
> pitch and when level no sound.
> When I leveled the washer and dryer it was fantastic. I just set it on the
> top and  toyed with the leveling feet until no sound.
> I don't remember from where it was purchased. I have had it for several
> years.
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 4:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: audible level
>
>
> No,
>
> He is talking about an audible spirit level. I have never had one so don't
> have anything to say about them. I do have a ball bearing on a track I
> bought from the RNIB way back in about 1971 for seven or eight quid which
> has served me well and proved to be remarkably robust even over 
> significant
> falls. I worry I'll loose the bearing and it has taken a few independent
> trips but always seems to find it's way back.
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
>  - Original Message - 
>  From: chiliblindman
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 4:28 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: audible level
>
>
>  I would love to give you an answer; but, I have no idea what audible 
> level
>
> you could be talking about. I set mine to what suits me, not others. So I
> don't have a glue as to what you mean. Is it a piece of equipment called
> audible level you hook up to your computer or what? Input level? Output
> level?
>  ...bob
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the 
> following
>
> address for more information:
> http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com
>
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list
>
> just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the 
> following
> address for more information:
> http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com

[BlindHandyMan] Emailing: MaxiAids.com - VIP Talking Thermostat For The Blind or Low Vision.htm

[Rob Monitor]

MaxiAids.com - VIP Talking Thermostat For The Blind or Low Vision
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  "For Use With Single Stage Heat / Cool" 




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Product Description  

  Features
  . Comfort solutions for seniors and persons 
who are blind, visually impaired or disabled
  . Announces day, time, room temperature and 
temperature setting
  . Audio instructions for setting up program
  . For 2.4 volt gas or electric heat with or 
without air conditioning
  . Free lifetime warranty

The VIP Series is the first digital thermostat 
with audio playback of day, time, indoor temperature, temperature setting and 
programming instructions so blind and visually impaired users can precisely and 
easily manage their indoor comfort. 

Yes, the VIP "talks" to you! When you press the 
day/time, weekend or weekday schedule buttons, you are voic

[BlindHandyMan] series or parallel

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Here is a question for you guys that know about wiring. Here it goes if you 
had two 12 volt batteries and wanted to wired them so you could charge them 
both at the same time and keep them 12 volt  would you run the liars from 
positive to positive and negative to negative?? Also is  this called series or 
parallel??
THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quartz Heater VS. Propane Heater

[Rob Monitor]

YES, that's why here in the northland of Minnesota I use a good old wood 
burning stove in the work shop and also in my house... There also is propane 
heat in the shop and house but I don't use the propane much last year I think 
used less then a haft of a tank of gas...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA 
  - Original Message - 
  From: cheetah 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 2:39 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quartz Heater VS. Propane Heater


  it depends on what you can afford.
  here in minnesota propain is $2.16 a gallon
  jim
  At 11:04 AM 11/10/2007, you wrote:

  >Hi all,
  >
  >I'm looking for a heater to heat my garage when I'm working out there. I'm
  >currently looking at a quartz heater that claims to be able to heat 1000
  >square feet and a LP heater that claims 700 square feet. The gas heater is
  >rated for indoor use. Does anyone have any opinion as to which might be a
  >better way to go? As always, any help greatly appreciated.
  >
  >Take care,
  >Ed Przybylek
  >
  >
  >
  >No virus found in this incoming message.
  >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1123 - Release Date: 
  >11/10/2007 3:47 PM



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quartz Heater VS. Propane Heater

[Rob Monitor]

Well my insurance guy said as long as my work shop had a wall between the work 
shop and garage it was all right... So my work shop is about  20 by  28 and the 
garage is about the same there is a big double doors between the garage and 
work shop that I can open to let the heat in to the garage what ever works
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: cheetah 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 5:57 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quartz Heater VS. Propane Heater


  hi rob well my insurance co told me the wood stove was totaly out.
  it was a nice air tight stove in the garage but sence they think gas 
  in your car would explode it had to go.
  so much for renuable heat sorces.
  jim
  At 02:57 PM 11/10/2007, you wrote:

  >YES, that's why here in the northland of Minnesota I use a good old 
  >wood burning stove in the work shop and also in my house... There 
  >also is propane heat in the shop and house but I don't use the 
  >propane much last year I think used less then a haft of a tank of gas...
  >ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  >- Original Message -
  >From: cheetah
  >To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  >Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 2:39 PM
  >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quartz Heater VS. Propane Heater
  >
  >it depends on what you can afford.
  >here in minnesota propain is $2.16 a gallon
  >jim
  >At 11:04 AM 11/10/2007, you wrote:
  >
  > >Hi all,
  > >
  > >I'm looking for a heater to heat my garage when I'm working out there. I'm
  > >currently looking at a quartz heater that claims to be able to heat 1000
  > >square feet and a LP heater that claims 700 square feet. The gas heater is
  > >rated for indoor use. Does anyone have any opinion as to which might be a
  > >better way to go? As always, any help greatly appreciated.
  > >
  > >Take care,
  > >Ed Przybylek
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >No virus found in this incoming message.
  > >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  > >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1123 - Release Date:
  > >11/10/2007 3:47 PM
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >No virus found in this incoming message.
  >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1123 - Release Date: 
  >11/10/2007 3:47 PM



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] series or parallel

[Rob Monitor]

What I'm asking this for is years ago I new a person the had a pickup truck 
with two batteries in it for starting in the winter in northern Minnesota when 
it gets 30-50 below zero... Just was wondering how you would hook the batteries 
up for that... Now here is another one for you if you took the batteries and 
hook them by positive to positive  and negative to negative then put a wire 
between the positive and the negative of each battery  what would that do???
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 10:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] series or parallel


  Hi Tom,

  Is that correct? I don't know myself but intuition would suggest to me that 
if the batteries were connected in parallel without the charger they would soon 
about balance each other. Once the charger is introduced the same conditions 
would apply, that is the weaker of the batteries would acquire charge faster 
than the other then together they would come up about equivalently wouldn't 
they?

  I think I would be concerned about the load on the charger though. Most would 
have a safety overload of some sort wouldn't they
  ? I haven't much experience with charging wet cells, as a kid we used to have 
to top up the battery in a couple of our boats that didn't have their own 
charging systems but that was about it. Oh yes, sometimes in the winter dad 
would put a charger on the car battery on those real cold nights to improve the 
chances it would start in the morning.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 11:00 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] series or parallel

  rob,
  You'd do as you said, and that's parallel, but don't do it.

  If, as is very likely the batteries aren't exactly identically
  charged or discharged when you start, the current from the
  charger will be unevenly distributed between the batteries. This
  will almost certainly lead to uneven charging of the
  batteries, and if perhaps one battery is much more charged when
  you start than the other, you can get a very high current flow
  between the batteries and
  some pretty hot wires and batteries.

  there is no reason to even try this as even if it worked it would
  take twice as long to do the job, so you may as well charge the
  batteries seperaately and be safe.

  Again, charging two batteries from a charger designed for a single
  battery can be dangerous and has no advantage, so please
  don't do it.

  with led acid or similar batteries it is O.K. to parallel them
  for normal operation, re: running stuff as long as they're both
  charged properly seperately. It's not a good idea to parallel
  cells with nicad or nimh batteries either.

  tom Fowle

  Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] more batteries questions

[Rob Monitor]

Just for the hell of ithere is another question about batteries.. Well if 
you had two 12 volt batteries and wanted to get 24 volts out of them would you 
hook the negative of one battery to a ground and the positive to the negative 
of the other battery and then would there be 24 volt coming out of the second 
battery??
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 10:12 PM
  Subject: Re: inverters [BlindHandyMan] battery aC


  I am not sure, I haven't used an inverter for over 30 years.
  - Original Message - 
  From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 8:57 PM
  Subject: Re: inverters [BlindHandyMan] battery aC

  I wasn't exactly sure but think so.
  What would be the benefits of getting a 24v verses a 12v, if not obvious?
  Also what benefit of getting the wave form feature?

  Thanks

  On Sat, 10 Nov 2007, Lenny McHugh wrote:

  >
  > This may be what you are looking for.
  > Inverters w/Built in Charger (12V DC to 110/120V AC)
  > http://www.topsalesdepot.com/poinwinchfu2.html
  > - Original Message -
  > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: 
  > Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 9:40 PM
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] battery aC
  >
  >
  > Hi, Someone told me that at advance auto parts shops they have a battery
  > charging system.
  > It is said to be a system that charges a battery and then allows for that
  > battery to then provide AC for powering consumer products.
  > Can anyone find out if they were just blowing smoke?
  > I'm very interested.
  > Thanks
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  > or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  >
  > Visit the archives page at the following address
  > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  >
  > If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the 
  > following
  > address for more information:
  > http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com
  >
  > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
  > list
  > just send a blank message to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Yahoo! Groups Links
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

  If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following 
  address for more information:
  http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com

  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
  just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Yahoo! Groups Links



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] DARPA Urban Grand Challenge

[Rob Monitor]

LOOK OUT HERE COMES us BLIND GUYS... Just think in a few years if we are still 
here we could be cruising around in are own vehicles... NO more weighting 
around for rides and be able to go and come when we like what a concept...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel Blanch 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 5:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] DARPA Urban Grand Challenge


  Thumbs up for CMU!

  WELL DONE CHAPS!, not forgetting, of course, the psychochaps!

  Jewel

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 11:02 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] DARPA Urban Grand Challenge

  Just a short note to let folks know that the DARPA Urban Grand Challenge 
  was won by my own Carnegie Mellon University.

  Six robots finished the race. It was sixty miles of urban driving where 
  bots had to negotiate four-way stops with each other, pass each other, 
  merge, obey all traffic laws, stop lights, dot dot dot.

  Stanford came in second with Virginia Tech in third place and M.I.T. 
  taking fourth.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  --

  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.32/1131 - Release Date: 14/11/07 
4:54 p.m.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driving sleds

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Years ago when I could still see a little bit I had a  old sled. Well I 
rode it on some trails that I new at that tine where old logging trails and as 
a kid I use to walk them a lot. When I took out the sled I would try to keep it 
in the middle
 of the trail but some times a dam tree would just jump right in front of me... 
My folks had a  old cabin on a lake and that was the best for driving a sled 
because you could open them up and go like a bat out of hell.. The only thing I 
had look out for was a fish house now and then...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA- Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 5:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driving sleds


  It's a pretty rough ride at those speeds. I know of a couple times when kids 
were going that fast and they weren't paying attention to where they were 
going. They were racing across some farm fields and both kids ran through a 
barbed wire fence. What a mess. My friend was working on the ambulance that 
picked up the pieces... 
  - Original Message - 
  From: robert moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 10:25 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Driving sleds

  I did that too but I had just enough sight to see the tail lights on the 2
  sleds ahead of me I told the guys nhot to go too fasnt and I would stay
  behind and in between their sleds. Well not too fast turned out to be 70
  MPH.
  Would not do it again but wow what a ride.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 3:07 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric heaters

  I had a Polaris dealership for a couple years. But more fun was being able
  to build them to race. Only a couple times did I ever feel silly enough to
  open one of them up. Some of the clutches had stall speeds of 6 to 9000 RPMs
  and you can't imagine the snap you get when a clutch kicks in at 6000 RPMs.

  I tried to follow the sound of the other sleds when I drove. Not very
  accurate but I'm still around so obviously it worked...
  - Original Message -
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 11:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric heaters

  I was about 16 when I first went snowmobiling. This old guy who spoke in
  great wisdom, said to me "it's bad luck if you hit a bush."
  I've heard lots of guys talk about "luck."
  Well the guys were calling out to me the directions to go as they thought
  it was as fun as a video game. guys in college used to do this too, when
  directing me to a seat in class.
  Then I didn't "something" enough and hit a bush. No big deal.
  Till... I ... warmed... up!!! I was a striped hoppin numbass! that'ssome
  bad luck! hahaha
  But that Sariniac Black and Tan, if it's still made,it's worth the time to
  find it.
  On Mon, 19 Nov 2007, Bob Kennedy wrote:

  > I went to Old Forge I think that's the town Jerry was talking about. I had
  a shop outside of Buffalo and I also rented U-Haul trucks. A group of us
  took snow mobiles up there for a weekend and I've never been so cold in my
  life. I was going to ride along and at the end of the driveway I got off my
  sled and told the guys I'd keep the fire going so it would be warm when they
  came back. I'm not sure but I think I froze some parts of me off up there...
  > - Original Message -
  > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  > Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 10:42 PM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric heaters
  >
  >
  > oh the home of the best black and tan available wide scale!
  >
  > On Sat, 17 Nov 2007, Jerry Richer wrote:
  >
  > > I live in Northern New York State. Saranac Lake, twenty miles to the
  East is often reported on the Today Show as the coldest spot in the United
  States. In Saranac Lake they pay twelve cents per Kilowatt Hour. We mostly
  heat with electric because our municipal owned power supply only costs two
  cents per Kilowatt Hour. It's suppose to be about the most inexpensive power
  in the United States.
  > >
  > > Jerry
  > >
  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > >
  > >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] radio direction finding project

[Rob Monitor]

How about some kind of a GPS system like they use for tracking cars and trucks..
rob from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 5:01 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] radio direction finding project


  How about the very low tech bell? I know of one person who clips a very 
  small cowbell on the dog when he is not working. Or to get a little higher 
  tech a remote control alarm of some type. I don't think that the radio 
  receivers would work. The receivers would be too close together to 
  accurately identify the direction.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "David Sexton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 5:49 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] radio direction finding project

  I'm working on a project for a friend. She wants to be able to train dogs 
  off leash and she has to be able to know where the dog is.
  My idea is a belt with eight tactile feedback units spaced equally around a 
  belt and A radio transmitter for the dog to wear.
  Some sort of direction finding antanna.
  Maybe each of the eight units could be receivers and a micro processor could 
  determine which one is receiving the stronger signal.
  Any ideas at all?
  How could I go about developing something like this. What are good sources 
  for parts, etc.
  David

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] palm sander

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I have a old black & Decker sander and it came with a plait type thing that 
after you put on the sand paper you take this plait thing and put it over the 
sand paper and push on it and it makes   little holes in the sand paper so it 
can go into   the sander and out the  dust port...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 3:54 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] palm sander


  Hi All,
  What is a good 1/4 sheet palm sander? It needs very good dust collection 
capability. I would like to use a 1/4" shop vac hose.
  For Christmas my wife bought me a Dewalt machine, all of the reviews were 
very good on this model. ( I don't remember the model number.
  Anyway the first problem that I had was the design I could not hook up my 
shop vac hose so I purchased a $10 vac adaptor. Today I was finally able to 
hook it up and guess what, absolutely no dust collection. I had Karen look at 
and the way it is assembled the dust collection holes are covered by the pad. I 
wonder how this got by inspection.
  I am obviously returning the machine I don't think I should take it apart and 
fix the problem. 
  I am also not sure if I want another Dewalt with their manufacturing 
inspections, or lack there of.
  I have a Porter Cable that I am equally disappointed. I have this machine 
past warranty time and only about 10 operating hours. A problem has developed 
that it vibrates so bad that you can not hold it on a board. It jumps about a 
1/2 " inch in the air.
  I do not normally purchase extended warranties but wish I would have on this 
Porter Cable machine.
  Karen did purchase a 2 year warranty for $5.00 on the Dewalt.
  Haven't made up my mind on what to do. Any suggestions?
  Thanks

  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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[BlindHandyMan] Fw: Recall on DeWalt cordless reciprocating saws

[Rob Monitor]

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Carl Hickson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Rob Monitor" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Tom Huhn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Dean Tuttle" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Robert Ptacek" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mickey 
Fixsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Gil Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
"Frank Chennells" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Robert Eley" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elaine Skinner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
"Armando Del Gobbo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Bob Kennedy" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Keith Christian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
"Glenn Permar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Vernon Bergfalk" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Gary Zaborniak" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Keith 
Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Ralph Supernaw" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Jim Tosh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mike 
Goldberg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Jim Samanich" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Ron Faulkner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Max 
Hearn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "John Sherrer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "David 
Albrektson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Larry Martin" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Gordon Mitchell" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Louis Scrivani" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 4:56 PM
Subject: FW: Recall on DeWalt cordless reciprocating saws


> Here is a notice of a safety recall on a DeWalt reciprocating saw sent by 
> one of our members.
>
> --
> Larry Martin
> Woodworking for the Blind
>--joining the world of blind wood workers
>
> -- Forwarded Message: --
> From: "louis scrivani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Recall on DeWalt cordless reciprocating saws
> Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2007 16:41:30 +
>>
>>
>> Hi all,
>> I just found out about this recall and thought I'd pass it along incase 
>> any of
>> you own one of these cordless reciprocating saws. These saws have a 
>> faulty
>> switch that can cause it to burst into flames. Even if you don't have one 
>> if
>> these saws please pass this along to the other people on your email list, 
>> you
>> may just save someone's home or life.
>>
>> This is a link to the recall on the Consumer Product Safety Commission 
>> site
>> http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml07/07068.html
>>
>> You can also check the DeWalt site for this, as well as their other 
>> recalls
>> (their are a few)
>> http://www.dewalt.com/us/search/search_results.asp?Site=cordless. Even if 
>> you
>> don't own any DeWalt tools it's a good idea to check out the Consumer 
>> Product
>> Safety Commission site or the web site of your tool manufacturer to see 
>> if any
>> of the tools you do own have been recalled.
>>
>> Ralph
>
>
> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

[Rob Monitor]

Hi, Why don't you get one of the light sockets that screws into the light 
socket that has plugs in it then plug a radio into it leave it on just enough 
so you can hear it..
- Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 11:53 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off


  Hi All,
  I am looking for a simple solution to the problem of knowing if the basement 
lights are on or off.
  Some days I can detect if the light is on but not all of the time.
  Years ago I had a neat smoke detector that screwed into a light socket and 
the bulb then screwed into this detector. The unit had rechargeable batteries. 
Whenever you turned on the light the unit would beep letting you know it was 
charging. I haven't seen any of them in years. Is there some alarm that will 
beep when the lights are turned on?

  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measure

[Rob Monitor]

hi, My talking tape measure does this, what I do is just let  it shut it self  
off then turn it back on and it seams to work but shirr you clear it first...
ROB
  - Original Message - 
  From: Loren buntemeyer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 2:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measure


  Wouldn't you loose the memory when the battery was changed? It had no battery 
over night.

  Loren
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 11:46 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measure

  You're probably stuck in memory mode or you're hitting the memory button

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Loren buntemeyer
  Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 4:46 AM
  To: Blind Handyman
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measure

  I have one of those talking tape measurers that has gone crazy. When I pull
  out the tape a few inches, it says 2,083 inches. I have changed the battery
  but it's the same. What is wrong? I purchased it from NFB. 

  Loren Buntemeyer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

[Rob Monitor]

hi, I had a whiny truck but I just divorced her...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 9:28 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck


  I think I figured out what you ment. 261 cubic inch displacement with a
  throttle body injection.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Robert J. Moore
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 9:24 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  Are you sure it was not a 4.3 not a 4.6?
  Also just curious, what is
  261 cid tbi,
  Just FYI
  The body is fair and I am hoping to kick this thing down the road to an even
  quarter million miles. Just a personal goal. If it does not make it it does
  not make it. I am already looking for a replacement for it before I have to
  put her out to pasture.
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]On
  Behalf Of NLG
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 9:03 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  lol! I would say that at 220,000 miles is getting close to being worn out,
  however, I have had a 1989 s10 blazer with the 4.6 261 cid tbi, that I had
  312,000 + miles on that still ran fine but the body wouldn't pass Pa.
  inspection because of the rust, that I had to retire. I am a firm believer
  in following the manufacturer's suggestions on fluid changes etc. , even
  more often on engine oil than recommended. I change oil every 3000 miles or
  6 months which ever comes first.

  Only you know just how good of shape your truck is in. If it is starting to
  nickle and dime you to death, you might want to try babying it along until
  you can get a replacement. In that case I might add the rearend oil that
  Lary recommended, just remember that worn parts will never be repaired by
  oil. but fresh oils will prevent ware.

  Again, only you know how good of shape your truck is in. If the body is
  exceptionally good you could replace the entire drive train with a used or
  new one. Most reputable selvage yardswill tell you the mileage on the drive
  train parts that you purchase.

  Again,
  Good luck :)

  - Original Message -
  From: Robert J. Moore
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 17:07
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  You say high milage. Well this truck has 220,000 miles on it and I don't
  know the history back further than 198,000 when I baught it. You think that
  would qualify for high milage?
  LOL

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  
  [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  
   ]On
  Behalf Of NLG
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 1:50 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  OK, usually a differential will make noise under excelleration but then
  quiet down when coasting. I would check the fluid level in the rearend to
  make sure it is full. If it is not, I would pull the cover and check for
  metal shavings. I would also change the filter and oil in the automatic
  transmission. I would not however, flush the transmission, especially if it
  is a high milage situation.

  Good luck :)

  - Original Message -
  From: Robert J. Moore
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  
  
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 14:39
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  I an not sure of the speed but I think this happens during exeloration
  around 20 to 50 MPH.
  It does not do this in park. As I said it is not coming from the engine
  compartment. I can tell you for sure that it is some where between the fly
  wheel and the back tires.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  
  
  [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  
  
   ]On
  Behalf Of NLG
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 1:30 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  
  
  Subj

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

[Rob Monitor]

hi, I have a electric tankless water heater it's the smallest one they make. 
Got it at home depot it's just fine for me because I live alone now. But be 
sure that you have enough power to run it the one I have needs 80 amps for the 
two electric coils that are in it but I still save about $20 a month...
  - Original Message - 
  From: rj 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 6:49 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


  Yes, I had two of the tankless tanks over the years and both were the mid 
size model and everything from the unit was within thirty feet. Planning, once 
this new tanks gives out in our new house going back to the tankless.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:20 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  So were you able to run the washer and take a shower at the same time?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of rj
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:05 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  I used and installed the tankless hot water heater in my old house. I can
  say they are very energy efficient and the unit lasted for 8 years. The cost
  was about $1000, but I believe I got my money back in 5 years or less.
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 6:58 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  I vaguely remember someone telling me that these types of water heaters are
  more corrosive on water pipes. Then again, I may be thinking of those
  instant hot water models.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]
  On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:12 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article 
  is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these 
  heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are 
  cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit 
  that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a 
  power hookup for that.

  I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't 
  think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of 
  these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance 
  around it.

  Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
   
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  __ NOD32 2046 (20070208) Information __

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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