Re: [lace] bobbin holders
When I first learned bobbin lace (20 years ago) I was taught to use a working cloth underneath the bobbins for a particular element. When that element was finished I just lifted a working cloth with both hands, keeping the bobbins flat and the cloth taught, and lifted it to the side of my work. Eventually there could be half a dozen cloths stacked with bobbins quite neatly. When they were needed I just lifted the next layer and started to work them again. I have to admit to using the 'flats' now to move bobbins around but again, extra working cloths make life so much easier. Cheers, Shirley T. - Adelaide, South Australia where the cool change has arrived and we're hoping for some rain. Other parts of Oz have been inundated but our fair city is still lacking rain. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] bobbin holders
My favorite holders for continental (Swiss) bobbins is a U made of wood. John Aebi is one of the makers of these. I know there's a Belgian gizmo that's like a large U with a spike at the bottom, but these are different. The wood is thinner and there's no spike. Instead there are two fine holes drilled through the wood. One hole goes through the tips of the U and the other goes through the solid part of at the base. The narrow part of the bobbins fits between the arms of the U, about 9-10 pairs. A pin through the tips keeps them in, and it plus another pin through the base hold the holder in place. With long pins (like divider pins), I can stack several of these U's and their bobbins. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA robinl...@socal.rr.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] bobbin holders
With spangled Midland bobbins, I use the knitting stitch holders that look like large safety pins. For most of my other bobbins, I use tongue depressors with the corners notched, and elastic bands stretched from one end to the other. With either holder, I can stack the fastened groups of bobbins on either side of my pillow while working. For transporting, I stack them together in the middle of the pillow, fold the work cloth up from the bottom and in from each side. Using a sturdy ribbon or cord or crocheted cord, I fasten the cord over the bundle by zigzagging it, and pinning each zigzag with a large pin on each side. When finished, the bobbins cannot move an inch... even if dropped upside down. If it's a large bundle, sometimes I pin it well, all around, before fastening it down with the cord. I have some commercial slats with elastic bands that I don't like as well as the tongue depressors. The commercial ones are thicker and don't stack as well. The crocheted bobbin holders are nice, but I'm too impatient to insert 100 bobbins in them, and I frequently have patterns with lots of bobbins. I like the tongue depressor holders because they are inexpensive, and easy to get a large pile of them. With several projects on the go, I can use a large number of them at any one time. Alice in Oregon ... with weather continued cold and frosty. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Bobbin holders
I prefer the holders that zip around 3 sides, but when I want to see or display my bobbins, I use the sheets that are made to store strips of film negatives. (I don't know if they're still available but if they are, it's a lot easier than making your own sheets.) They're made to go into 3 ring binders, are clear plastic, and are divided horizontally into 7 sections. Each section is open on the left and right, so that the strips of negatives can slide in. I staple one end shut. And each is wide enough to take a pair of spangled bobbins, head to head. Like this : O--- ---O Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada Visit the Seaspray Guild of Lacemakers web site: http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/quinbot - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Bobbin holders
I made a bobbin holder several years ago with net pockets. It was specifically made to hold my inscribed antique bobbins so that I can see the inscriptions without removing a bobbin from its pocket. I don't have anywhere to display them because of DHs various collections on display in cabinets and on the walls - keeps him happy :-D Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
RE: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - Short
Thank you, Noelene, for that suggestion! I've purchased a couple of pairs of 27" long shoelaces, and tried them out. They are wonderful! It's a little scary seeing all those bobbins and threads jumbled together, and kind of amazing when you untie the bow and straighten the shoelace to see all the bobbins lined up perfectly on the pillow. The thing I like best about this method is that you can remove bobbins from either end of the shoelace, then just tie it back up and place it out of the way again. Now if I could just fine something as easy, quick and versatile for my continental bobbins! Barbara Snoqualmie, WA USA > > RE: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - Short > > Noelene Lafferty > Thu, 25 Jan 2007 13:22:52 -0800 > > So far no-one seems to have mentioned my favourite bobbin holder for my > spangled bobbins - shoe laces. They have a little bit of metal or plastic > crimped to each end, making them easy to thread through the spangles. The > bundles can be piled one on top of the other, bobbins can be pulled off > either end, etc., etc. > > The only trouble these days, with the preponderance of sneakers, is finding > short shoe laces. I've been forced to buy long sneaker laces, cut them in > half, and tie an overhand knot on the raw end. > > Noelene in Cooma - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] bobbin holders - aglets
Hi everyone and Joy Thankyou for the several tips on dealing with 'tips' of the cords we use to tie down our bobbins. Double thanks, Joy, for inserting the term 'aglet' - because right away as I read the message I was trying to remember the precise name of that little deal! > Try twisting the end then dipping the end in nail polish ... > > Another trick is to thread a piece of shrink tubing onto the > lace, shrink it, and then cut the tubing in half, creating a > neat aglet on each half of the lace. > > > In a pinch, you can use Magic Tape, scotch tape, or masking tape to stop the ends from fraying. A small piece is all that is needed, 'pinched' (heh heh) at the ends of the shoelace. -- Bev in Sooke BC (on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) who remembers frantically putting on shoes with worn laces, on 3 small boys, before they could run to catch the school bus. Praise Velcro. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - long
People have often asked me where I got my bobbin holders from - 1 inch wide elastic with a button sewn on each end which securely ties down with a berry pin in each of the holes at both ends I will let you all into the secret they came from packets of incontinence pads that I got for my mother when she was very elderly and sick they really are just the thing but please don’t tell anyone where I got them. Sue M Harvey Norfolk UK -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Carol Adkinson Sent: 25 January 2007 18:55 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - long Hi All, I would agree with most of the suggestions, apart from the fact that I don't think I would recommend that my students put the tongue depressors - or anything else! - across the threads. This may well work for fairly sturdy threads, but it still runs the risk of rubbing them, and eventually they may well break. And as we all know, when threads break, it is *always* at the most inconvenient times and places.I use a piece of half-inch wide elastic, held down over the bobbins, with berry pins (the large pins with coloured heads) holding the elastic taut, with the bobbins unable to jiggle about. Carol - in Suffolk UK - Original Message - From: "Patsy A. Goodman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I also, sometimes do one added thing to > secure the threads down good. I have used a tongue depressor or a > nice piece of wood with small holes drilled in each end, that I lay > across my threads up next to the pins, and pin down on the pillow. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.12/653 - Release Date: 26/01/2007 11:11 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.12/653 - Release Date: 26/01/2007 11:11 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - Short
On 1/25/07 6:49 PM, Helen Ward wrote: Try twisting the end then dipping the end in nail polish Noeline. I used to do it years ago when the crimped ends came off my boys school shoe laces. Worked every time. Another trick is to thread a piece of shrink tubing onto the lace, shrink it, and then cut the tubing in half, creating a neat aglet on each half of the lace. -- Joy Beeson http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/ http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange http://www.timeswrsw.com/craig/cam/ (local weather) west of Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A. where - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - Short
Try twisting the end then dipping the end in nail polish Noeline. I used to do it years ago when the crimped ends came off my boys school shoe laces. Worked every time. Helen in OZ So far no-one seems to have mentioned my favourite bobbin holder for my spangled bobbins - shoe laces. They have a little bit of metal or plastic crimped to each end, making them easy to thread through the spangles. The bundles can be piled one on top of the other, bobbins can be pulled off either end, etc., etc. The only trouble these days, with the preponderance of sneakers, is finding short shoe laces. I've been forced to buy long sneaker laces, cut them in half, and tie an overhand knot on the raw end. Noelene in Cooma - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - Short
So far no-one seems to have mentioned my favourite bobbin holder for my spangled bobbins - shoe laces. They have a little bit of metal or plastic crimped to each end, making them easy to thread through the spangles. The bundles can be piled one on top of the other, bobbins can be pulled off either end, etc., etc. The only trouble these days, with the preponderance of sneakers, is finding short shoe laces. I've been forced to buy long sneaker laces, cut them in half, and tie an overhand knot on the raw end. Noelene in Cooma [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - Long
Dear Lacemakers, When I knew I wanted to learn to make lace, I began to put together sets of color-coordinated pillow, pin cushion, carrying tote bag, etc. for various types of laces. It is more fun to work on a surface that is a color you love. Sometimes, I added "pets" toward the back of the pillow that would catch the attention of children - a small Easter bunny, angel, that sort of thing. These were secured in place with corsage pins, as was a pin cushion. It is quite easy to break threads - and bobbins - if you use too firm a material to hold threads/bobbins on a pillow while in transit. There needs to be a little flexibility. And there are many who do not do woodworking and do not care to start accumulating tools that will require storage from time to time. In the beginning, I bought hatpins, then stopped using them because very often the pins were large and chewed up the pillow top. Other pin systems were not very attractive, and took a long time to set up, as did the crocheted ladders. And spangles would move around to the top bar of those large knitting safety pins. -- Recipe to consider, but not for experienced lacemakers using many bobbins on large pillows! You may have supplies at home to substitute for the following: A. A small package of pearl-headed corsage pins from a craft shop. B. For a small pillow, one yard or so of a pretty *non-slippery* ribbon that coordinates well with your pillow color or theme. Flat gold braids will work, and are elegant. Or, substitute old heming tape or something like that. You'll need more ribbon or braid for a large pillow. See way below for how to determine length of ribbon to buy. - 1. Cut the ribbon/braid ends with pinking scissors or cut a V, so there is less chance of ravelling. 2. When you insert corsage pins throughout this process, slant each toward the center of the pillow (not straight down). Push them all the way in to pillow. 3. Think of the letter "Z". At Northwest of "Z", secure beginning end with a corsage pin, where threads coming off your lace meet pillow and need to be held in place. The long tail of ribbon should be pointing East. 4. Bring the ribbon tail across the pillow and over the threads (like top bar of a "Z") to Northeast, fold it at an angle to point down to the next part of a "Z" (Southwest) and secure with a corsage pin. 5. Ribbon should travel diagonally across your bobbins to lower left.bobbin. Decide where across the bobbins you want to secure them. It depends on the style of the bobbins. You should still have 1/2 of your ribbon length to finish. Pin. 6. Bring the ribbon across the bobbins (East) to make the bottom bar of the "Z". Fold so tail points Northwest and pin. 7. Bring ribbon back to beginning and secure. 8. If you want the bobbins and thread more secure, buy a longer ribbon/braid and fill in across the middle. This process takes very little time! Cover your pillow with a pillow cover, and pin that in place at four corners. When you are ready to make lace, remove corsage pins, which you can now use to keep bobbins organized (grouped) on your pillow. You only have one lightweight ribbon/braid to put away. If you like this system, I recommend you take a piece of ordinary string or an extra-long measuring tape and determine just how much ribbon/braid you need for your individual project, because bobbins and pillows vary greatly. Newbies: When you put your lace pillow in a tote bag, be careful not to pile instruction books, a lamp, magnifier, your purse, or other heavy items on top of the bobbins, even after they have been secured and a cover cloth has been pinned over all. Bobbins are fragile, and can easily break from this type of pressure. It is not fun to glue bobbins back together. Repaired bobbins are never as pretty as in original condition. Most of my tote bags are made of pre-quilted materials that you can buy in a fabric shop. If weather is bad, I put tote in a large plastic trash bag. If walk is long or difficult (as it is if you are going to demonstrate in costume with a long skirt), the folding two-wheeled carts that people in cities take to grocery stores are a wonderful way to get around with all lace supplies. Line with a large dark plastic trash bag with drawstring top, so nothing will fall out and everything is protected from weather, dust, puddles, pickpockets, etc. These carts normally have room for two large bags of groceries. Therefore, they have room for purse, a small folding stool, magnifier, spare trash bag, towel to wipe up water, etc. Your lace pillow should be last thing you put in, with nothing piled on top of it. Tie securely, and position the gathered top to face downward. In the other hand you can carry a small folding work table. These folding carts are engineered to navigate sidewalk curbs and stairs in cities, and I think a
Re: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - long
Hi All, I would agree with most of the suggestions, apart from the fact that I don't think I would recommend that my students put the tongue depressors - or anything else! - across the threads. This may well work for fairly sturdy threads, but it still runs the risk of rubbing them, and eventually they may well break. And as we all know, when threads break, it is *always* at the most inconvenient times and places.I use a piece of half-inch wide elastic, held down over the bobbins, with berry pins (the large pins with coloured heads) holding the elastic taut, with the bobbins unable to jiggle about. Carol - in Suffolk UK - Original Message - From: "Patsy A. Goodman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I also, sometimes do one added thing to > secure the threads down good. I have used a tongue depressor or a nice > piece of wood with small holes drilled in each end, that I lay across my > threads up next to the pins, and pin down on the pillow. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - long
Brilliant idea, I have just bought some on ebay. Thanks for the tip. Agnes Boddington - Elloughton UK Shere'e wrote: I do something similar when I am leaving my pillow (I have cats who think that playing with bobbins is GREAT FUN!!!) I got U pins. They are commonly used for hanging jewelery chains on flat display boards. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] bobbin holders
On Wednesday, January 24, 2007, at 07:19 PM, Malvary J Cole wrote: Last year when I was making my tangram piece for the Lace Guild competition, I had lots of bobbins in a fairly small space and didn't have enough holders to keep the bobbins I wasn't using out of the way. I've had this problem and found that the normal holders (knitting stitch/tongue depressors) take too much room. So I've had fun buying antique hat pins in flea markets. I run them through the spangles and stack them up vertically. Takes no room at all on your pillow, but you have to be using spangled bobbins. Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada Visit the Seaspray Guild of Lacemakers web site: http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/quinbot/seaspray/SeasprayLaceGuild.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - long
Another tip if you are making tongue depressor holders. Drill a small hole at each end, then you can pin them down, or hold them out of the way when working. However I've found that they tend to crack after a while. Last year when I was making my tangram piece for the Lace Guild competition, I had lots of bobbins in a fairly small space and didn't have enough holders to keep the bobbins I wasn't using out of the way. I did have a number of new paint stirrers (given away free with cans of paint). I cut them in half and made them in exactly the same way as the tongue depressors. I did have to sand the end into a wedge so that it would slip under the bobbins easily. I love them, they are a little longer than the tongue depressor and are very strong. Malvary in Ottawa (the Nation's capital), Canada - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - long
I also have a device to keep the threads in control, a little tab of quilted fabric that is pinned firmly over the threads above the bobbin heads. Has saved a headache or two when unbundling the works. On 1/24/07, Patsy A. Goodman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > I have used a tongue depressor or a nice > piece of wood with small holes drilled in each end, that I lay across my > threads up next to the pins, and pin down on the pillow. > -- Bev in Sooke BC (on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) Cdn. floral bobbins www.woodhavenbobbins.com blogging lace at www.looonglace.blogspot.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - long
I do something similar when I am leaving my pillow (I have cats who think that playing with bobbins is GREAT FUN!!!) I got U pins. They are commonly used for hanging jewelery chains on flat display boards. They are shaped in a U with both open ends being sharp. I just place them over the thread against the head of each pair of bobbins and even if my pillow gets knocked over in a kitten race the bobbins stay nice and secure. I got a handful from a lady at a craft fair and fell in love with them. I have seen them at lots of bead shows and I have been told you can get them from display showrooms but I have not tried there yet. Shere'e Seattle, WA, USA On 1/24/07, Patsy A. Goodman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hi, If you don't mind I'd like to add one other suggestion to yours, Alice. Besides all the great suggestions on securing the bobbins, which I have used most of the ideas, all great. I also, sometimes do one added thing to secure the threads down good. I have used a tongue depressor or a nice piece of wood with small holes drilled in each end, that I lay across my threads up next to the pins, and pin down on the pillow. Just as an added precaution. I also do this when I'm just going to leave my pillow for a few minutes and don't want to bundle up my bobbins. Just a precaution in case the pillow gets bump. Patsy A. Goodman Chula Vista, CA, USA - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - long
Hi, If you don't mind I'd like to add one other suggestion to yours, Alice. Besides all the great suggestions on securing the bobbins, which I have used most of the ideas, all great. I also, sometimes do one added thing to secure the threads down good. I have used a tongue depressor or a nice piece of wood with small holes drilled in each end, that I lay across my threads up next to the pins, and pin down on the pillow. Just as an added precaution. I also do this when I'm just going to leave my pillow for a few minutes and don't want to bundle up my bobbins. Just a precaution in case the pillow gets bump. Patsy A. Goodman Chula Vista, CA, USA - Original Message - From: "Alice Howell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Sue Duckles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 1:39 PM Subject: Re: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - long Hi Sue, To transport a pillow, all the bobbins etc have to secured to the pillow, then no matter how it's carried, nothing will move or break. I have dealt with various cookie or flattish pillows, not bolsters, so that's where my experience lies. Here's some ideas that I, and my friends, use. Ribbon: Lay a strip of ribbon or braid across the bobbins, and pin between the bobbins. Suggest using large headed pins for this purpose..easier to insert and remove. Also, slant alternating pins up or down to make in very difficult for the pins to pull out by accident. Crocheted strip: A strip of crochet that looks like a narrow ladder is easy to make. Insert the bulb of a bobbin in each hole, or alternate holes. Pin down the strip in several places. This is good only for bobbins without spangles. Knitting stitch holder: This large safety-pin type of holder is good for spangled bobbins. Insert the pin through the spangles. Pin down each end of the holder. Tongue depresser: Inexpensive holders can be made with the flat sticks called tongue depressers (in a drug store) or craft sticks (in a hobby shop). As mentioned before, elastic thread can be attached through holes in one end, and looped over notches in the other end. Method two - tongue depresser: Using wire clippers, snip off the corners of the stick so there is a stub in the center of each end. Slide stick under a group of bobbins and loop a large elastic band over the stubs. Method three - tongue depresser: Get some little wooden wheels from the craft store, the same width as the tongue depressers. Glue a wheel to the very end of one stick, and glue a second stick on top. Drill a small hole through the other end of the sticks-- the open end. Slide a group of bobbins inside the two sticks and put a large pin through the end holes to secure the bunch to the pillow. Another wooden holder: In northern Europe, a holder is made from a stick about 5mm thick, 18mm wide and 18cm long. A 7mm wide slot was cut out of the center of the flat side of the stick, to about an inch from the other end. This make a very long, skinny "U" shaped stick -- sort of like a long tweezer. The outer edges of the cut ends were trimmed on a slant to make it easier to slide under the bobbins. A pinhole is drilled through the cut ends, sideways. This holder is intended for bobbins with a narrow shaft and a bulb at the end. Platform holder: My friend wanted wider holders than tongue depressers. She found some sections of flat plastic picket fence about 4 x 5 inches in a craft store, intended for doll houses or some such thing. The horizontal supports stuck out enough to put two elastic bands from end to end. The small square bobbins she uses lay neatly on the fence sections, fastened top and bottom with the bands. They could be moved without wiggling. To get more of them, she got sheets of very thin board (intended for doll house construction), cut it into pieces about 4 x 5 inches, drilled holes in one end for two sets of elastic cord, and put notches on the other end for the cord loops. Cloth holder: Use a work cloth to lay over the bobbins, or fold over the edges of the cloth on the pillow. Pin all sides and in between some of the bobbins. This works for small quantities of bobbins. Stacks of bobbins in holders can be held down with a braid or ribbon criss-crossing the pile and pinned securely on each side. The bigger the stack, the more braid used. A work cloth can be put over the pile before using the ribbon if desired. Once the bobbins are securely fastened down to the pillow, it should be possible to turn the pillow upsidedown without anything moving. At this point, you can put the pillow in any kind of bag for transport safely. Suggestion -- cover the pins and lace with a cloth so the pins cannot snag on the bag and pull out. Just pin the cloth on four corners to hold it in place. Carry Cloth: An easy short-transport carrier is a 45" square of fabric. Put your pillow (p
Re: [lace] bobbin holders and bags - long
Hi Sue, To transport a pillow, all the bobbins etc have to secured to the pillow, then no matter how it's carried, nothing will move or break. I have dealt with various cookie or flattish pillows, not bolsters, so that's where my experience lies. Here's some ideas that I, and my friends, use. Ribbon: Lay a strip of ribbon or braid across the bobbins, and pin between the bobbins. Suggest using large headed pins for this purpose..easier to insert and remove. Also, slant alternating pins up or down to make in very difficult for the pins to pull out by accident. Crocheted strip: A strip of crochet that looks like a narrow ladder is easy to make. Insert the bulb of a bobbin in each hole, or alternate holes. Pin down the strip in several places. This is good only for bobbins without spangles. Knitting stitch holder: This large safety-pin type of holder is good for spangled bobbins. Insert the pin through the spangles. Pin down each end of the holder. Tongue depresser: Inexpensive holders can be made with the flat sticks called tongue depressers (in a drug store) or craft sticks (in a hobby shop). As mentioned before, elastic thread can be attached through holes in one end, and looped over notches in the other end. Method two - tongue depresser: Using wire clippers, snip off the corners of the stick so there is a stub in the center of each end. Slide stick under a group of bobbins and loop a large elastic band over the stubs. Method three - tongue depresser: Get some little wooden wheels from the craft store, the same width as the tongue depressers. Glue a wheel to the very end of one stick, and glue a second stick on top. Drill a small hole through the other end of the sticks-- the open end. Slide a group of bobbins inside the two sticks and put a large pin through the end holes to secure the bunch to the pillow. Another wooden holder: In northern Europe, a holder is made from a stick about 5mm thick, 18mm wide and 18cm long. A 7mm wide slot was cut out of the center of the flat side of the stick, to about an inch from the other end. This make a very long, skinny "U" shaped stick -- sort of like a long tweezer. The outer edges of the cut ends were trimmed on a slant to make it easier to slide under the bobbins. A pinhole is drilled through the cut ends, sideways. This holder is intended for bobbins with a narrow shaft and a bulb at the end. Platform holder: My friend wanted wider holders than tongue depressers. She found some sections of flat plastic picket fence about 4 x 5 inches in a craft store, intended for doll houses or some such thing. The horizontal supports stuck out enough to put two elastic bands from end to end. The small square bobbins she uses lay neatly on the fence sections, fastened top and bottom with the bands. They could be moved without wiggling. To get more of them, she got sheets of very thin board (intended for doll house construction), cut it into pieces about 4 x 5 inches, drilled holes in one end for two sets of elastic cord, and put notches on the other end for the cord loops. Cloth holder: Use a work cloth to lay over the bobbins, or fold over the edges of the cloth on the pillow. Pin all sides and in between some of the bobbins. This works for small quantities of bobbins. Stacks of bobbins in holders can be held down with a braid or ribbon criss-crossing the pile and pinned securely on each side. The bigger the stack, the more braid used. A work cloth can be put over the pile before using the ribbon if desired. Once the bobbins are securely fastened down to the pillow, it should be possible to turn the pillow upsidedown without anything moving. At this point, you can put the pillow in any kind of bag for transport safely. Suggestion -- cover the pins and lace with a cloth so the pins cannot snag on the bag and pull out. Just pin the cloth on four corners to hold it in place. Carry Cloth: An easy short-transport carrier is a 45" square of fabric. Put your pillow (pattern, tools) in the middle of the square. Tie opposite corners. Pick up by the knots and go. This is a horizontal carry method but does need a hand to carry it. Bags: As mentioned by someone else, I prefer a vertical bag with a large handle so I can put it over my arm and still have a hand free to open doors or carry something else. A large totebag with adequate handles will suffice. Special zipped bags can be made or bought, but a simple totebag works well. If the weather is really nasty, slip your pillow in a plastic trash bag before putting it in the totebag. The new XL size ziplock bags work very well. Even the plastic/nylon wreath bags discussed previously will protectg a pillow. Of course, you can make special bags to fit a pillow. They can be made of waterproof fabric, or have a plastic inner lining, for weather protection. You can even put two handles on it -- one long one for the shoulder, and a short one for the hand/arm. In short -- fasten down th
[lace] Bobbin holders on ebay
Thanks for the explanation. At least the bit of the bobbin that goes in the slot would have to be very thin, and these holders wouldn't be any use on modern thin foam pillows, as I assume the pin part goes down into the pillow. Jean i Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] bobbin holders
<<< For projects where you choose to use "Thumpers", or continental bobbins which don't have spangles, most lace vendors carry a bobbin holder that is wood and has an elastic cord that holds the bobbins in place - and in order. >>> Why spend so much money? Craft shops may sell flat wooden sticks, cut a < on both tips. Elastic rubber bands can sit in the <'s. If you can't find fitting rubber bands: knot some cheap elastic string or how should I call that in English. An alternative: fold spokes of bycicle wheels more or less like safety pins: (T The space between both parts should be just wide enough for the smaller part of the stumpers handles. _ (_o_o_o_o_o_o_o_o_T Some simply stack the bobbins by putting handerchiefs or other pieces of cloth between the layers of bobbins. Pins at strategic positions through the cloth and your pillow is ready for transport or more layers. happy stacking! Jo Falkink http://www.xs4all.nl/~falkink/lace/intro-EN.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
