Re: SD>NEVER Buy Fel-Pro story (was Another boring question)
For our turbo cars yes Fel-Pro gaskets are horrible, but don't blame the company, for big blocks people swear by them and are one of the best gaskets to get. Like all companies they make good products as well as bad ones. Just ask any Hemi or 440 owner what gasket they prefer. - Original Message - From: "Duane Watters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "sdml" Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 11:13 PM Subject: Re: SD>NEVER Buy Fel-Pro story (was Another boring question) > > Aftermarket manufacturers are going to stop making 2, 3 or 4 gaskets for the > > same engine once the engine is out of production for some period of time > > (unless it is some specialty engine/head). > > > > The last Fel-Pro gasket I saw (a couple months ago), looked very similar to > > the Mopar Performance gasket I put on my car, if not exactly the same. Same > > thickness, same amount of metal around the cylinders, etc. I would not doubt > > that a 2005 Fel-Pro gasket would be fine, but, I know, for $20 ... why not get > > the MP one? > > Let me tell you a story so to say, > > I was working on a brand X and purchased a Fel-Pro head gasket set. I > installed the part and gaskets. The vehicle ran for 3 days before it started > puking oil and Anti on the ground. Tore it back down to find a terrible > sight. The intake gasket had failed and filled the motor full on antifreeze, > and ruined the motor. The worst part is that it was a friends vehicle, and > he is not mechanically inclined. > > I compared the factory gasket to the Fel-Pro one and they were really > different. The factory gasket had built in intake end seals the Fel-Pro did > not and they expected a 3/8 of an inch bead the seal the ends on the intake > manifold. When I called them on it they said the gasket had to be installed > wrong, because their gaskets were as good as the factory gaskets. > > The moral to the story is I will never buy Fel-Pro gaskets again, The best > gaskets are the factory gakets. > > ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING > Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ > > To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> RE: Fel Pro Gaskets
I haven't had the need to replace a head gasket yet on my Turbo Dodge but I've used nothing but Fel Pro's on my 340 Duster for years. Not one single problem. Why would they work so well on V8s and so poorly on turbo cars? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Re: Camshafts, 89 vs Taft vs S60
I think I would recalibrate or get a different computer and if all else fails paint the valve white. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> headgaskets
i am running a fel pro 9296PT with steel shim built right into it on the block side on my o ringed 2.2 T ll . i used spray hylomar on both sides of the gasket and used ARP head bolts. i feel this gasket is good for the o ringed applications. i believe i was recommended this gasket by Gary Donovan. i feel this to be a really good headgasket for o ringed applications. now my 87 turbo beater lebaron with T l non o ringed block is using a MP 005 headgasket. the head has been welded and resurfaced. 7K miles on this one and no problems yet. i have no experiences with the cometic headgaskets so i will not comment on those. a big part is making sure both surfaces are smooth and flat, making sure both mating surfaces are clean and dry. using a thread chaser on all the headbolt holes to make sure the new headbolts will tighten easily and not bind up giving you a false or lower reading on your torque wrench. i use some 30W oil on my new MP headbolt threads so they dont thread in dry. and dont forget once you tighten every headbolt to spec in foot pounds in pattern with your replacement headbolts you will need to tighten the headbolts an additional 1/4 turn tighter in pattern to get the stretch on the bolt. (ARP head studs do not get additional 1/4 turn) i have used felpro and MP headgaskets in several 2.2 buildups, and repairs. never had one of em pop yet. just my .02 and some experience mat ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> re: another boring question
The best gasket to get is a multi-layer steel (MLS a.k.a. "cometic" head gasket). Its the ultimate in durability. Lots of engines' designs are not engineered to properly utilize an MLS gasket reliably and i'm sure when our 2.2 / 2.5's were developed, and MLS gasket was not taken into consideration. Doesn't mean it won't work though. It could be coincidental that the design will work perfectly fine with it. I've been asking around various lists to see if anyone has put 10's of thousands of miles on an MLS gasket with a 2.2 / 2.5 but it doesn't seem that anyone has, at least they haven't gotten back to me. It takes lots of thermal cycles and miles to finally make one fail... such as a daily driver. IN race applications it'll last seemingly forever. I'm sure that I'll be one of the first to put such miles on one of these if I can get this car road-worthy again this spring. Now, more importantly, the machine work to surface the head and block needs to be different than what is acceptable for a generic gasket. There are different "smoothnesses" that can be machined into the surface and its measured in AU's or something. I'm fuzzy on that. The MLS gasket requires a "smoother" surface to be installed on. Say you were to buy a brand new short block and brand new head from mopar that has been surfaced installing an MLS gasket in that setup is not a good idea. The "rough" surface machined into the head and block will literally tear the gasket apart in time. The same thing happens to generic gaskets if installed on too rough of a surface. Both Ford and Chrysler have been using MLS gaskets extensively now. They say, that if a head's surface were to become warped, or scratched, etc you need to REPLACE it, not re-machine it. Its both bogus and true because most machine shops (especially back yard ones) are not capable of producing the smooth surface necessary for the MLS gasket to slide around properly on and will result in gasket failure. But its bogus in that SOME modern shops CAN re-produce the proper surface with the proper equipment and there's no reason the head cannot be re-used. That, and you can re-machine it at the back yard machine shop and use an aftermarket composite gasket without troubles. How long will it take for a backyard shops' surfacing techniques to cause an MLS gasket to fail? It could be 5,000 miles could be 50,000. I don't know. Just a little nasty food for thought. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> wheel polisher
i finally got off my dead A$$ this weekend and started work on making my aluminum wheel polisher for TD wheels and anyhing else that fits a 5 bolt 100MM circle. i had most of the parts scrounged up to do this as freebies. i did have to spend some money though. i had to get a 1/2 fan belt, some nuts and bolts, a can of spray paint, electric cord, 4" diameter pulley for the motor, and a rheostat to adjust the wheel speed. for the stuff i needed to buy i spent about $35.00. this thing will be portable so it can be stored when not being used. i know some of you jack up your cars and let the wheel spin while the car is running to polish up the aluminum. i feel this is dangerous for many reasons. i will have some pictures of this polisher soon for those of you who may want them to make a variation of it for yourselves. mat ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Flywheels
Hi everyone, A quick question about flywheels both standard and automatic. I know that there are 6 bolt and 8 bolt cranks and flywheels. Do 2.2's and 2.5's flywheels interchange? Thanks Bob 87' Shelby Lancer 87' Turbo Shadow 87' 2.5 LeBaron GTS 92' 2.5 Shadow 94' 2.2 Shadow ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> revision to parts for sale
I dug alittle deeper and came up with some more parts 2.2-2.5 1 new chrome valve cover w/end seals 50.00 1 new G-head still in the box 400.00 (bare) or can assm. w/all new parts ,choice of cam 650.00 new "670" 36.8mm (G-head)stainless exhaust valves 5.00ea new "794"36.8mm +1mm(swirl-head)stainless exhaust valves 5.00ea 1 new 87-88 steel 2.2 T2 crank 300.00 (never installed) 2 new destroke 2.0 billet cranks 500.00 ea. 1 masi. steel crank 150.00 many cast cranks most std/std 50.00 and up blocks just ask many used G-heads comp. wo/cam 75.00 and up new oil deflectors for turbo engines 4.00ea (under oil cap on head) 2.2-2.5 oil pans new and used,stock or baffled 20.00 and up new and used logic modules,smecs,&sbecs 50.00 and up new cam blanks 50.00 ea (have ground and hardened to your specs,wil last a lot longer than a re grind) 1 new DC shark tail for charger 75.00 1 new DC whale tail 200.00 (fits stock spoiler mounting holes) 2 16" pumpers 1lt&1rt 1never mounted 1mounted alittle dirty(dismounted now) 80.00pr 1pr 88 shadow es front seats alittle dirty but no wear (grey w/red pin striping)75.00pr litureture-sales brouchers,owners manuals,sdac art work etc.ask 5.00 and up new charger lock knobs 15.00pr new chrome turn signal arms and wiper knobs 25.00 set Neon 1new B&M shifter 65.00 1 new set stainless valves(DOHC) 1mm larger 130.00 SRT-4 MP blow off convertion 50.00ea SRT-4 shift knobs and boots 50.00set 1 new Quaife 95-99 800.00 1 new 14x6" alum. polished wheel 60.00 1 new volant cold air intake (under master cylinder) 75.00 misc 2momo seats from aliance gta 75.00pr (great side bolsters) bill 99 dak R/T,97 integra gsr (wifes), 93 acclaim, 91 spirit R/T, 90 spirit es, 88 newyorker 2.5 t2, 88 csx-t, 87 glhs #709,86 sc,85 sc , 85 sc mas, 85 glh road racer, 85 turismo 'ugly',3-79 little red exress's, ) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Shelby Wheels
Brousing Ebay and found these, anyone know what they were for? Also interesting to note that the box they came in has what looks like the Shelby Lancer Wheel on it, but the Lancer wasn't out for another 2 years. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4523728373 &category=34209 Robert Meier Shelby Lancer 249 2001 Neon R/T 1985 GLH T ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> WTB - 1989 (G-body) Daytona Shelby coil-over strut kit
Had this information once before and lost it... can someone please send the vendor again... thanxs in advance Michael J. Weary AMSOIL dealer ZO505009 1989 Daytona Shelby 1989 Shelby Dakota #315 _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> T1 Woes
H. Fuel filter clogged? Bad HEP? --- Home <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > beatrice_email_stationaryI have Lebaron w/ a T1 > that has developed a wierd > problem. > > It starts fine then runs for about 10 minutes and > the sputters and dies. If > I try to restart it just cranks. If I let it sit > for a couple of hours, it > will start and repeat the same process. > > THe only code I am getting is 12. > > > ThanksTim > > ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING > Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ > > To be removed, visit > http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Shelby Wheels
Shelby was a sourch of aftermarket wheels back in the late 70s and early 80s. I'd bet those are for a Pinto, or Vega. I know the Vegas (H body) and the HS body (Monza,Sunbird,Starfire,Skyhawk) had 4x4" pattern. But the offset looks like a FWD application. I have heard of people using 4x4" on 4x100mm. but I NEVER would. The custom wheels I had on my 1980 Sunbird had oval offset washers and slotted holes in the rim, so they would work with 100mm or 4". What is weird is that they are standard patterened wheels, but he has metric lugnuts. Back then I would assume that anything US would have had standard studs. - Original Message - From: "Robert Meier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 5:41 PM Subject: SD> Shelby Wheels Brousing Ebay and found these, anyone know what they were for? Also interesting to note that the box they came in has what looks like the Shelby Lancer Wheel on it, but the Lancer wasn't out for another 2 years. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4523728373 &category=34209 Robert Meier Shelby Lancer 249 2001 Neon R/T 1985 GLH T ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD> Shelby Wheels
Carroll Shelby Wheels sold several different kinds of wheels, many of them for Chrysler products. The wheels in the auction are the Reversed Daytona model. They were sold by Direction Connection (now Mopar Performance) in the 1980's. Here's a scan from a Direct Connection catalog and another picture of one wheel: http://users.waymark.net/superdave/ForSale/NOSShelbyWheels2.jpg http://users.waymark.net/superdave/ForSale/NOSShelbyWheels1.jpg I thought it was funny that the auction states, in all caps, that you will never see another set of these wheels. I also have a brand new set just like that complete with hub caps and lug nuts. I bought them many years ago because I thought they were really cool. I'll probably never user these wheels and am tired of stepping over them. If you are interested in a set please let me know! Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert Meier Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 4:42 PM To: shelby-dodge@sdml.org Subject: SD> Shelby Wheels Brousing Ebay and found these, anyone know what they were for? Also interesting to note that the box they came in has what looks like the Shelby Lancer Wheel on it, but the Lancer wasn't out for another 2 years. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4523728373 Robert Meier Shelby Lancer 249 2001 Neon R/T 1985 GLH T ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Shelby Wheels
I have a set of these same style wheels... Mine are 4 lug, 14"x 6 and they also are brand new,in the box. They are a slick looking wheel in person...I bought them to go on my 85' 600 ES Convertible,although I think at this point I'm probably leave the pizza's on it. Anybody interested in them? Robert, I too thought the wheel on the box looked like a Lancer wheel... Chryguy Robert Meier <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Brousing Ebay and found these, anyone know what they were for? Also interesting to note that the box they came in has what looks like the Shelby Lancer Wheel on it, but the Lancer wasn't out for another 2 years. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4523728373 &category=34209 Robert Meier Shelby Lancer 249 2001 Neon R/T 1985 GLH T ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Grief can take care of itself, but to get the full value of a joy you must have somebody to divide it with. Mark Twain - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Search presents - Jib Jab's 'Second Term' ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD> Shelby Wheels
Carroll Shelby Wheels sold several different kinds of wheels, many of them for Chrysler products. The wheels in the auction are the Reversed Daytona model. They were sold by Direction Connection (now Mopar Performance) in the 1980's. Here's a scan from a Direct Connection catalog and another picture of one wheel: http://users.waymark.net/superdave/ForSale/NOSShelbyWheels2.jpg http://users.waymark.net/superdave/ForSale/NOSShelbyWheels1.jpg I thought it was funny that the auction states, in all caps, that you will never see another set of these wheels. I also have a brand new set just like that complete with hub caps and lug nuts. I bought them many years ago because I thought they were really cool. I'll probably never user these wheels and am tired of stepping over them. If you are interested in a set please let me know! Dave ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD> Shelby Wheels
For some reason this isn't making it through the filters so I'll split it in two to see which half is causing it... Carroll Shelby Wheels sold several different kinds of wheels, many of them for Chrysler products. The wheels in the auction are the Reversed Daytona model. They were sold by Direction Connection (now Mopar Performance) in the 1980's. Here's a scan from a Direct Connection catalog and another picture of one wheel: http://users.waymark.net/superdave/ForSale/NOSShelbyWheels2.jpg http://users.waymark.net/superdave/ForSale/NOSShelbyWheels1.jpg ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD> Shelby Wheels
Those could be 4x100 made for a Chrysler FWD vehicle. My set is... Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ed Nickl Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 5:46 PM To: Robert Meier; shelby-dodge@sdml.org Subject: Re: SD> Shelby Wheels Shelby was a sourch of aftermarket wheels back in the late 70s and early 80s. I'd bet those are for a Pinto, or Vega. I know the Vegas (H body) and the HS body (Monza,Sunbird,Starfire,Skyhawk) had 4x4" pattern. But the offset looks like a FWD application. I have heard of people using 4x4" on 4x100mm. but I NEVER would. The custom wheels I had on my 1980 Sunbird had oval offset washers and slotted holes in the rim, so they would work with 100mm or 4". What is weird is that they are standard patterened wheels, but he has metric lugnuts. Back then I would assume that anything US would have had standard studs. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Code 13, why???
Strange problem here... My Daytona is popping up an error 13. Map sensor problem. Seems to be BARO related, as I put a meter on the baro solenoid, and it never dips. Seems like the problem happens right when the computer would be checking the baro. Start it up, run for a minute, maybe less, and then the computer triggers the error and the light comes on. I know I should get a code 37 not a 13 with a baro problem, but the map sensor is reading just fine. I can backprobe the pins on the SMEC connector. The map sensor voltage is exactly what it should be. And the baro voltage never drops like it should when the computer checks, not even when first turning on the key. Suggestions? Or just tell me like it is.. It's a smoked transistor on the SMEC and that SMEC is dead unless I can miraculously figure out which one it is. -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD>Another boring question
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2005 16:49:47 -0600 From: "Ryan Lada" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: SD>Another boring question I just used a fel-pro gasket on my van. I have a question relating to head gaskets: has anyone ever used a Victor head gasket? The machine shop I used when I lived in Raleigh swore by them. I used one of their 2.0 head gaskets when the one on my Stratus was letting oil ooze down the back of the block and it was a slick 2-piece steel sandwhich design that let the head and block expand at different rates without causing leaks. I have a leftover 2.2L Victor head gasket in the garage (I used the Mopar Performance one when I last had the head off) and was wondering if it would work for when I pop the head to re-ring the pistons and put on some decent turbo oil and cooling lines. http://engineparts.com/products/ghome.htm Anyone familiar with these? -Ed ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Code 13, why???
Solved it, stupid mistake. Future note.. When you plumb the wastegate directly into the manifold without a restrictor, find another line besides the one that goes to the MAP.. The wastegate can was dampening the signal enough that the computer was having issues with it. I just had to do some more troubleshooting. :) On Sat, 5 Feb 2005 17:17:05 -0800, Brian Schulteis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Strange problem here... My Daytona is popping up an error 13. Map > sensor problem. Seems to be BARO related, as I put a meter on the baro > solenoid, and it never dips. Seems like the problem happens right when > the computer would be checking the baro. Start it up, run for a > minute, maybe less, and then the computer triggers the error and the > light comes on. I know I should get a code 37 not a 13 with a baro > problem, but the map sensor is reading just fine. I can backprobe the > pins on the SMEC connector. The map sensor voltage is exactly what it > should be. And the baro voltage never drops like it should when the > computer checks, not even when first turning on the key. > Suggestions? Or just tell me like it is.. It's a smoked transistor on > the SMEC and that SMEC is dead unless I can miraculously figure out > which one it is. > > -- > Brian J. Schulteis > Bremerton, Washington > '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) > '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) > '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) > > ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING > Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ > > To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html > -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Hurst shifter for L body
These are not very easy to find. I have one and have been pondering selling it. shoot me an email if you are interested In a message dated 2/4/2005 19:02:18 Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Writes: Guys, Does any one know where I can find a Hurst stick for an L body? I read in a Dodge Performance book for the 2.2 engines that there was such a shifter (P4120970). There was a Mopar Performance Shift linkage kit (P4349051) too. These are very old parts - would anyone know if somebody might still have these Collecting dust on shelves somewhere? Also, would JUST a stick to a 79-80 Omni fit on a 86 Omni? Mike D'Antonio - 86 Omni GLH, 91 Spirit RT ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Hurst shifter for L body
Whats the difference in it and the standard shifter? I didnt know there was a Hurst shifter for L-Bodies... [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: These are not very easy to find. I have one and have been pondering selling it. shoot me an email if you are interested In a message dated 2/4/2005 19:02:18 Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Writes: Guys, Does any one know where I can find a Hurst stick for an L body? I read in a Dodge Performance book for the 2.2 engines that there was such a shifter (P4120970). There was a Mopar Performance Shift linkage kit (P4349051) too. These are very old parts - would anyone know if somebody might still have these Collecting dust on shelves somewhere? Also, would JUST a stick to a 79-80 Omni fit on a 86 Omni? Mike D'Antonio - 86 Omni GLH, 91 Spirit RT ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD>Which Throttle cable to use?
Ok, one more T1 to T2 conversion question. What throttle cable should I use on my 85 SC when doing my conversion? Do I need a GLHS cable, or will a Daytona or similar cable work? Thanks! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD>Which Throttle cable to use?
I used a Daytona cable on my '83 SC. Worked fine. I had a friend that used a GLHS cable on her car and the cable (not the sheething) was WAY too long. Luckily I tracked down a throttle bracket from a 2piece TB, and it spaced the cable farther (the proper distance) from the throttle. :) -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebaron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 22:35:28 -0600, Mike Fisher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Ok, one more T1 to T2 conversion question. What throttle cable should I > use on my 85 SC when doing my conversion? Do I need a GLHS cable, or > will a Daytona or similar cable work? Thanks! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Re: Another Boring question
I have used the Felpro gaskets on my turbo minivan and my 86 Glhs turbo that is also O ringed. Because of the metal backing it works really well with O rings. It also has cross drilled holes too wich my Omni has . It may not be as strong as the COMETIC or what ever it's called gasket , but I think of the gasket as a fusable link of sorts as I would much rather the head gasket to blow first before a piston,,rod bearing etc. Sato Subject: Re: SD>Another boring question I just used a fel-pro gasket on my van. It appears different then the previous fel-pro gaskets I have seen. This new style has a gasket type material on top and a metal material on the bottom, Not like the previous silver gaskets I have seen in the past from fel-pro. I used it because I could get it the day I needed it instead of waiting 2 days for the dealer. Ryan Lada ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> T1 Woes
I'd put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what it does as it runs. I'd bet it gets lower and lower until it quits. Just a thought. Home wrote: beatrice_email_stationaryI have Lebaron w/ a T1 that has developed a wierd problem. It starts fine then runs for about 10 minutes and the sputters and dies. If I try to restart it just cranks. If I let it sit for a couple of hours, it will start and repeat the same process. THe only code I am getting is 12. ThanksTim ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Code 13, why???
Check for vac hose leaks? Also ground wires? --- Brian Schulteis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Strange problem here... My Daytona is popping up an > error 13. Map > sensor problem. Seems to be BARO related, as I put a > meter on the baro > solenoid, and it never dips. Seems like the problem > happens right when > the computer would be checking the baro. Start it > up, run for a > minute, maybe less, and then the computer triggers > the error and the > light comes on. I know I should get a code 37 not a > 13 with a baro > problem, but the map sensor is reading just fine. I > can backprobe the > pins on the SMEC connector. The map sensor voltage > is exactly what it > should be. And the baro voltage never drops like it > should when the > computer checks, not even when first turning on the > key. > Suggestions? Or just tell me like it is.. It's a > smoked transistor on > the SMEC and that SMEC is dead unless I can > miraculously figure out > which one it is. > > -- > Brian J. Schulteis > Bremerton, Washington > '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) > '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) > '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) > > ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING > Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ > > To be removed, visit > http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
