ll off...
That one got held back on with a zip tie so I could make it home. All the
others were ready to fall off.
-Curt
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 00:49:01 -0800
From: "kevin kraly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] replacing fuel return lines
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
t; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] replacing fuel return lines
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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I did have a time with a couple of them on my 300D and
Allan
a pair of 45 degree angle needle nose pliers is what I use. Kind of use a
grip, left and right spin, and pull move. When they pop off try not to have
the spaz reaction pliers kick back and hit the little beveled ends o the
injector nozzle. Also check that your 17 mm nuts (?) of your
I did have a time with a couple of them on my 300D and 300CD. The 'cD had
the worst ones which were TOTALLY dried out and broke into pieces at the
slightest tug, of course, right at the barb! I picked at them gently with a
knife which did the trick. There's no Diesel smell under the hood of t
Slice through the fabric, but not all the way through the rubber line
- twist a lot, pull, etc. -
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there."
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Take a pair of good needle nosed pliers a grip the line off-center so
that it will tear off the nipple as you crush the part between the
jaws. A bit harder to describe than do, but what you want is to grab
enough of the hose beside the nipple to cause it to fail without
gouging into the nipple
seemed to be acting like a chinese finger handcuff -- tightening as I
pulled. Do I need to cut off the old line, or is there some secret
technique to removing it? Or just pull harder?
Brute force. Just be sure not to nick or mar the hose fittings
when you do finally take pliers or a knife to