[AMRadio] Loading antenna with BC 610 E

2008-01-17 Thread John King
I am thrilled to report that I have my RRd BC 610 E
putting out lots of RF (about 370 watts) into a 50 ohm
Cantenna dummy load.

I am experiencing some slight spitting and arcing at
built in antenna relay. I speculate that that spitting
is due to inadequate loading or RF transfer from the
final tank coil to the dummy load. I am feeding the
dummy load directly through coax connected to the two
feed through insulators on the output.

I would appreciate recommendations regarding a
loading device to help transfer RF from the tank
coil to the antenna. Will installing a C2 from output
to ground tune the reactance out of the feed line and
facilitate loading the dummy load better or loading
the Coax feedline to the antenna??

I would appreciate the benefit of your actual
experience or knowledge to assist me in interfacing
this BC 610 E to a feedline. Thanks and 73, John, K5PGW


  

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Re: [AMRadio] Loading antenna with BC 610 E

2008-01-17 Thread ne1s
- Original Message -
Subject: [AMRadio] Loading antenna with BC 610 E
Date: Thu, January 17, 2008 11:32
From: John King [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 I would appreciate recommendations regarding a
 loading device to help transfer RF from the tank
 coil to the antenna. Will installing a C2 from output
 to ground tune the reactance out of the feed line and
 facilitate loading the dummy load better or loading
 the Coax feedline to the antenna??


Hi John,

I believe what you want to do is put a variable capacitance in series with
the output link to resonate it. This should be connected such that the
rotor of the capacitor is grounded/connected to the coax braid, and the
stator connects to one end of the link. The coax center conductor gets
connected to the opposite end of the link. About 1200pF maximum should be
adequate for all bands except 160M. If you operate 160M you can put a
large 1000pF transmitting mica in parallel with the variable capacitor
when you operate there.

I don't have experience with an actual BC-610, but know folks that do, and
use the above method (W1CKI, for one). Also, I have a homebrew rig that
operates up to 300W output and uses BC-610 coils with the above method. I
use the three-section ganged air variable from a late 1920s-era TRF
broadcast radio. The spacing between rotor  stator seems adequate for
this power level with this vintage capacitor. More modern broadcast air
variables may not be. All three stators, ~400pF each, are connected in
parallel.

GL,
-Larry/NE1S
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[AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations

2008-01-17 Thread geoff
In a balanced push-pull Class C RF Final with plug-in coils, I've seen
things done a couple of different ways.

One is, to split the B+ so that the potential is fed with the BW HDVL
jack-bar to the inside of the two coil's.  The outside of the coils is
then connected to the tubes.  That's the way the home-brewed 250TH final
I'm running was done, back in the mid '50's.  There was also a couple of
finger-stock pieces across the BW butterfly tuning condenser to
facilitate adding a vaccuum capacitor across it for allowing the circuit
to resonate on a lower frequency (like 75, or 160m).

I understand that the circuit would no longer be 'balanced' were that
condition to occur.  It would go back to being balanced if a pair of
capacitors at half the required value were used, and where the two meet
in the middle were tied to the stator of the Butterfly.  THAT would keep
it balanced.  That's the reason for the split-stator capacitor across
the final, now.  But, that's not my question...

I recently picked up another home-brew 250TH final that has had more RFI
considerations involved in it's construction (than the one in current
operation) as it was built sometime in the '60's.  Screen and mesh
aluminum, etc... It's nice and hopefully will keep me out of the
neighbors TV's, microwaves, blenders, etc... (grin) But the plug in coil
is what prompted me to this question:

Is there a difference in feeding each of the inside sockets on the
jack-bar with B+ from the top of the RF plate choke, vs having the two
coils tied together, in the middle, and feeding B+ there?

I understand that the potential is the same, but for the sake of having
less stray capacitance and a 'cleaner' RF environment, which would be
better, and please... tell me why?

Thanks!

--
73 = Best Regards,
-Geoff/W5OMR
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RE: [AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations

2008-01-17 Thread John Coleman
Hi Geoff:
In my opinion, the coils should be tied together in the middle as
close to the coils as possible, either on the male bar or on the female bar.
RF current flows on the wires between the coils so it is imperative that the
wire be capable of handling the skin effect and current of the RF which is
much greater than the DC/audio connection from the top of the RF choke. So
rather than making two connections to the RF choke, where you would need to
make large wire and have RF flowing though it, just make one connection with
flexible wire and join the coils together at the coils.

John, WA5BXO 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of geoff
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 11:49 AM
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
Subject: [AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations

In a balanced push-pull Class C RF Final with plug-in coils, I've seen
things done a couple of different ways.

One is, to split the B+ so that the potential is fed with the BW HDVL
jack-bar to the inside of the two coil's.  The outside of the coils is
then connected to the tubes.  That's the way the home-brewed 250TH final
I'm running was done, back in the mid '50's.  There was also a couple of
finger-stock pieces across the BW butterfly tuning condenser to
facilitate adding a vaccuum capacitor across it for allowing the circuit
to resonate on a lower frequency (like 75, or 160m).

I understand that the circuit would no longer be 'balanced' were that
condition to occur.  It would go back to being balanced if a pair of
capacitors at half the required value were used, and where the two meet
in the middle were tied to the stator of the Butterfly.  THAT would keep
it balanced.  That's the reason for the split-stator capacitor across
the final, now.  But, that's not my question...

I recently picked up another home-brew 250TH final that has had more RFI
considerations involved in it's construction (than the one in current
operation) as it was built sometime in the '60's.  Screen and mesh
aluminum, etc... It's nice and hopefully will keep me out of the
neighbors TV's, microwaves, blenders, etc... (grin) But the plug in coil
is what prompted me to this question:

Is there a difference in feeding each of the inside sockets on the
jack-bar with B+ from the top of the RF plate choke, vs having the two
coils tied together, in the middle, and feeding B+ there?

I understand that the potential is the same, but for the sake of having
less stray capacitance and a 'cleaner' RF environment, which would be
better, and please... tell me why?

Thanks!

--
73 = Best Regards,
-Geoff/W5OMR
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Re: [AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations

2008-01-17 Thread geoff
John Coleman wrote:
 Hi Geoff:
   In my opinion, the coils should be tied together in the middle as
 close to the coils as possible, either on the male bar or on the female bar.
 RF current flows on the wires between the coils so it is imperative that the
 wire be capable of handling the skin effect and current of the RF which is
 much greater than the DC/audio connection from the top of the RF choke. So
 rather than making two connections to the RF choke, where you would need to
 make large wire and have RF flowing though it, just make one connection with
 flexible wire and join the coils together at the coils.
   

So, just to be crystal clear, a piece of wire between the coil halves
-on the coil assembly itself- would be better.
I could just add another pin in the middle of the coil assembly then add
a socket which would be connected directly to the top of the RF choke.

Thanks, John.

Hopefully, one of these days, the 'moderation bit' will be lifted off my
AM Reflector account, and mail will get to the list a bit quicker.

--
73 = Best Regards,
-Geoff/W5OMR

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Re: [AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations

2008-01-17 Thread ne1s
- Original Message -
Subject: [AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations
Date: Thu, January 17, 2008 12:49
From: geoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 In a balanced push-pull Class C RF Final with plug-in coils, I've seen
 things done a couple of different ways.

 One is, to split the B+ so that the potential is fed with the Bamp;W HDVL
 jack-bar to the inside of the two coil's.  The outside of the coils is
 then connected to the tubes.  That's the way the home-brewed 250TH final
 I'm running was done, back in the mid '50's.  There was also a couple of
 finger-stock pieces across the Bamp;W butterfly tuning condenser to
 facilitate adding a vaccuum capacitor across it for allowing the circuit
 to resonate on a lower frequency (like 75, or 160m).

 I understand that the circuit would no longer be 'balanced' were that
 condition to occur.  It would go back to being balanced if a pair of
 capacitors at half the required value were used, and where the two meet
 in the middle were tied to the stator of the Butterfly.  THAT would keep
 it balanced.  That's the reason for the split-stator capacitor across
 the final, now.  But, that's not my question...


Hi Geoff, how ya' been?

I understand it's not your question, but if I understand you correctly, I
beg to differ on a few things you stated above:

1) A single capacitor plate-to-plate wound probably not upset the balance
appreciably - in fact if the cap, and connections to it, were totally
symmetric it wouldn't at all. The fixed vacuum caps I've seen have an
outside and an inside cylinder, so stray capacitance to the surroundings
from the outside cylinder would probably be larger than the strays to the
inside cylinder. However, as long as the cap was reasonably spaced from
surrounding stuff, I don't think it would be of any practical consequence
on the lower bands where you'd be using the auxiliary fixed cap anyway.

2)If you were to use two caps, with a common connection tied to the rotor
of the butterfly cap (you said stator - did you mean rotor?), their values
would need to be double (not half) the value of a single cap, because they
are effectively in series.

-SNIP-

 Is there a difference in feeding each of the inside sockets on the
 jack-bar with B+ from the top of the RF plate choke, vs having the two
 coils tied together, in the middle, and feeding B+ there?

 I understand that the potential is the same, but for the sake of having
 less stray capacitance and a 'cleaner' RF environment, which would be
 better, and please... tell me why?

 Thanks!


John already answered this, so I won't bother.

Good luck with the new RF deck - are you replacing the old one, or
completely different/new transmitter?

73,
-Larry/NE1S
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Re: [AMRadio] Manual

2008-01-17 Thread Todd, KA1KAQ
On Jan 17, 2008 2:50 PM, Rick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Would anyone on the list happen to have a manual for the HP-410B voltmeter?
 Mine went south on me recently and I'd like to get it up and running.

I think there are copies available online for download, Rick. If you
don't locate one, let me know and I'll check with Mike W1RC to see if
he has any copies left.

~ Todd,  KA1KAQ
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[AMRadio] Re: AMRadio Digest, Vol 48, Issue 25 (posting replies)

2008-01-17 Thread D. Chester

That discussion should have been kept off the list Ed, sorry.  I had
hoped one of the two parties would have told us the mistake so we
would know what was going on.  This is like beating a dead horse for
me, over and over again  Advertise your stuff on the list, buy
your stuff from the seller, but PLEASE do not use the list to conduct
your transactions, shipping questions, etc.  400+ members do not need
to know all that information.  Remember, this is not an online web
forum, it's an email list.  Each and every message you post goes to
someones email account.


And PLEASE^2, when  replying to a message, if you quote the original, snip 
out everything but what is relevant to the message at hand.  Many of the 
posted messages quote the entire thread leading up to that message, headers 
and all.  Out of self-defence, I use the Digest Mode, and sometimes it goes 
on page after page, a mixed mess, mostly previous messages quoted in their 
entirety.  This makes it difficult to find and sort out the real messages 
and wastes far too much storage space on the server. It takes about 10 extra 
seconds to highlight and delete the irrelevant text.


Don k4kyv 


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[AMRadio] Manual

2008-01-17 Thread Rick
Would anyone on the list happen to have a manual for the HP-410B voltmeter?
Mine went south on me recently and I'd like to get it up and running.

Thanks,
Rick/K5IAR

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Re: [AMRadio] Manual

2008-01-17 Thread ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW

I try to avoid BAMA if possible.

Try this.
http://manoman.sqhill.com/hp/index.htm
410B is 30.8 meg and I haven't downloaded it to know the quality.


K7DFW


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Re: [AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations

2008-01-17 Thread jeremy-ca
Have you considered rebuilding for parallel operation and use a relay 
switched toroid input and a pi-net out? There are 6 band circuit boards 
available.


It makes band changing a lot easier when the deck is shielded. Im converting 
a similar era deck that way. A further benefit is a coax fed antenna to 
further minimize stray RF radiation.


There should be no problem getting to 15M with a standard air variable based 
upon the tube output C, the cap minimum and strays. I'll be using a vacuum 
variable and coverage will be 160-10M.


With the tubes enclosed you will also need some fan assisted air exhausting.

Have fun, 250TH decks seem to be everywhere lately.

Carl
KM1H


- Original Message - 
From: geoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service 
amradio@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 12:49 PM
Subject: [AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations



In a balanced push-pull Class C RF Final with plug-in coils, I've seen
things done a couple of different ways.

One is, to split the B+ so that the potential is fed with the BW HDVL
jack-bar to the inside of the two coil's.  The outside of the coils is
then connected to the tubes.  That's the way the home-brewed 250TH final
I'm running was done, back in the mid '50's.  There was also a couple of
finger-stock pieces across the BW butterfly tuning condenser to
facilitate adding a vaccuum capacitor across it for allowing the circuit
to resonate on a lower frequency (like 75, or 160m).

I understand that the circuit would no longer be 'balanced' were that
condition to occur.  It would go back to being balanced if a pair of
capacitors at half the required value were used, and where the two meet
in the middle were tied to the stator of the Butterfly.  THAT would keep
it balanced.  That's the reason for the split-stator capacitor across
the final, now.  But, that's not my question...

I recently picked up another home-brew 250TH final that has had more RFI
considerations involved in it's construction (than the one in current
operation) as it was built sometime in the '60's.  Screen and mesh
aluminum, etc... It's nice and hopefully will keep me out of the
neighbors TV's, microwaves, blenders, etc... (grin) But the plug in coil
is what prompted me to this question:

Is there a difference in feeding each of the inside sockets on the
jack-bar with B+ from the top of the RF plate choke, vs having the two
coils tied together, in the middle, and feeding B+ there?

I understand that the potential is the same, but for the sake of having
less stray capacitance and a 'cleaner' RF environment, which would be
better, and please... tell me why?

Thanks!

--
73 = Best Regards,
-Geoff/W5OMR
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Re: [AMRadio] Manual

2008-01-17 Thread rbethman

Bama has the 410B and the 410C.

Bob - N0DGN



On Jan 17, 2008 2:50 PM, Rick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  

Would anyone on the list happen to have a manual for the HP-410B voltmeter?
Mine went south on me recently and I'd like to get it up and running.



I think there are copies available online for download, Rick. If you
don't locate one, let me know and I'll check with Mike W1RC to see if
he has any copies left.

~ Todd,  KA1KAQ


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RE: [AMRadio] Manual

2008-01-17 Thread Rick
Thanks for all the replies.  I got the manual from both BAMA and the
manoman site.  I must admit, the second site has a beautiful copy with all
illustrations perfectly viewable as well as all pages neat and straight.

Thanks again, guys..
Rick/K5IAR
I try to avoid BAMA if possible.




Try this.
http://manoman.sqhill.com/hp/index.htm
410B is 30.8 meg and I haven't downloaded it to know the quality.


K7DFW



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[AMRadio] plug in coils for push pull

2008-01-17 Thread John Coleman
You could modify the assembly, but I don't think it is that critical. Just a
good healthy strap at the socket works well.

John, WA5BXO

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RE: [AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations

2008-01-17 Thread John Coleman
Larry you are correct about the theory and if two capacitors are used they
must be balanced also.  I have generally found that balance is not always
what it seems and if secondary single or double fixed capacitor can be
avoided then that is best but it sometimes is not avoidable. And stray
capacitance from a bad layout can really through you off.  It is just one of
those things that has to be dealt with on a individual basis.

John, WA5BXO  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 1:41 PM
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations

SNIP:

1) A single capacitor plate-to-plate wound probably not upset the balance
appreciably - in fact if the cap, and connections to it, were totally
symmetric it wouldn't at all. The fixed vacuum caps I've seen have an
outside and an inside cylinder, so stray capacitance to the surroundings
from the outside cylinder would probably be larger than the strays to the
inside cylinder. However, as long as the cap was reasonably spaced from
surrounding stuff, I don't think it would be of any practical consequence
on the lower bands where you'd be using the auxiliary fixed cap anyway.

2)If you were to use two caps, with a common connection tied to the rotor
of the butterfly cap (you said stator - did you mean rotor?), their values
would need to be double (not half) the value of a single cap, because they
are effectively in series.


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Re: [AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations

2008-01-17 Thread geoff
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I understand that the circuit would no longer be 'balanced' were that
 condition to occur.  It would go back to being balanced if a pair of
 capacitors at half the required value were used, and where the two meet
 in the middle were tied to the stator of the Butterfly.  THAT would keep
 it balanced.  That's the reason for the split-stator capacitor across
 the final, now.  But, that's not my question...

 
 Hi Geoff, how ya' been?
   

Having a ball playing radio, can ya tell? ;-)

 I understand it's not your question, but if I understand you correctly, I
 beg to differ on a few things you stated above:

 1) A single capacitor plate-to-plate wound probably not upset the balance
 appreciably - in fact if the cap, and connections to it, were totally
 symmetric it wouldn't at all. The fixed vacuum caps I've seen have an
 outside and an inside cylinder, so stray capacitance to the surroundings
 from the outside cylinder would probably be larger than the strays to the
 inside cylinder. However, as long as the cap was reasonably spaced from
 surrounding stuff, I don't think it would be of any practical consequence
 on the lower bands where you'd be using the auxiliary fixed cap anyway.
   

I wouldn't have thought so either if it had been anyone else who made
that recommendation.  But, it's hard to argue with a ham who's 'been
there, done that' and has built up -many- kW rigs, always paying
particular attention to minute details.

If John/WA5BXO says it, I believe it. 

 2)If you were to use two caps, with a common connection tied to the rotor
 of the butterfly cap (you said stator - did you mean rotor?)
No, I meant the part that doesn't rotate.  The 'frame', if you will. 

 , their values would need to be double (not half) the value of a single cap, 
 because they are effectively in series.
   

I want to add enough capacitance across each side of the butterfly,
equally.  I'm pretty sure I want half of the values.
 If (for example) the total capacitance that's used across the entire
tuning capacitor is 50uuf, then each side has to be 25uuf, with the
single mounting point on the frame of the capacitor... the part that
doesn't rotate.  Is it not called the 'stator'?  Common sense tells me
'rotor' is the part that -moves- ;-)

 Good luck with the new RF deck - are you replacing the old one, or
 completely different/new transmitter?

It'll be in addition to.  I believe what I'm gonna do, is use the
double-connected racks to house,
2 power supplies, the 250TH modulator and the original RF deck, on one side.
1 power supply the new RF deck, a 19 rack of (4) 6-position coax
switches and an R-274 receiver on the other side.

The coax switches will be used to select exciters and finals.  With a
totally adjustable bias supply for the new (to me) final, it would do
fine in either Class B, for a linear (being driven by a rice-box), or
Class C for high-level plate modulation, driven by the Viking II.

I've still got a lot of thoughts in my head... this is just the
preliminary thinking.
Bottom line, I'm trying to conserve space in the shack. ;-)


--
73

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[AMRadio] Mit Romoney disses Ham Radio

2008-01-17 Thread geoff
I know it's not particularly pertinant to AM operations in Ham Radio,
but it affects Ham radio, in general, and worth the read.

We hams have it bad enough, when we try to get support for our hobby
from those that regulate it.  To have an aspiring politician (I don't
care if he's running on the one-eyed, purple polka-dotted people eater
ticket, he's still a politician) who's trying to become president of
this nation, utter such a sentence, would certainly be a blow to ham-dom
and the entire 'needed' community in case of a disaster.

http://ema.arrl.org/article.php?sid=802

--
-Geoff/W5OMR

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Re: [AMRadio] Loading antenna with BC 610 E

2008-01-17 Thread Warren Elly
What my BC-610I has is an so239 mounted in the sidepanel just below  
the feed thrus.

its connected to the feedthrus...
i have a dowkey antenna relay hung off of it, and feed 375 watts out  
all day long into 50 ohms. I also pretune into a dummy load the same  
way.
I use a tuner rated at 3k watts to tune 470 ohm feeders on a full wave  
loop on 75. using a 5kv 4 to 1 ballun to

bring the coax into the shack.
73 warren w1gud

On Jan 17, 2008, at 12:48 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


- Original Message -
Subject: [AMRadio] Loading antenna with BC 610 E
Date: Thu, January 17, 2008 11:32
From: John King [EMAIL PROTECTED]


I would appreciate recommendations regarding a
loading device to help transfer RF from the tank
coil to the antenna. Will installing a C2 from output
to ground tune the reactance out of the feed line and
facilitate loading the dummy load better or loading
the Coax feedline to the antenna??



Hi John,

I believe what you want to do is put a variable capacitance in  
series with

the output link to resonate it. This should be connected such that the
rotor of the capacitor is grounded/connected to the coax braid, and  
the

stator connects to one end of the link. The coax center conductor gets
connected to the opposite end of the link. About 1200pF maximum  
should be

adequate for all bands except 160M. If you operate 160M you can put a
large 1000pF transmitting mica in parallel with the variable capacitor
when you operate there.

I don't have experience with an actual BC-610, but know folks that  
do, and
use the above method (W1CKI, for one). Also, I have a homebrew rig  
that
operates up to 300W output and uses BC-610 coils with the above  
method. I

use the three-section ganged air variable from a late 1920s-era TRF
broadcast radio. The spacing between rotor  stator seems adequate for
this power level with this vintage capacitor. More modern broadcast  
air

variables may not be. All three stators, ~400pF each, are connected in
parallel.

GL,
-Larry/NE1S
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[AMRadio] T-368 FS on QTH

2008-01-17 Thread Joe Crawford
W5DPP has his T-368 for sale on QTH.com. Ad #641748. Usual disclaimers apply.
Joe W4AAB
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Re: [AMRadio] Mit Romoney disses Ham Radio

2008-01-17 Thread Peter Markavage
Read the date; old news; topic beat to death several years ago; heard he
loves ham now.

Pete, wa2cwa

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:57:41 -0600 geoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 I know it's not particularly pertinant to AM operations in Ham 
 Radio,
 but it affects Ham radio, in general, and worth the read.
 
 We hams have it bad enough, when we try to get support for our 
 hobby
 from those that regulate it.  To have an aspiring politician (I 
 don't
 care if he's running on the one-eyed, purple polka-dotted people 
 eater
 ticket, he's still a politician) who's trying to become president 
 of
 this nation, utter such a sentence, would certainly be a blow to 
 ham-dom
 and the entire 'needed' community in case of a disaster.
 
 http://ema.arrl.org/article.php?sid=802
 
 --
 -Geoff/W5OMR
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Re: [AMRadio] Loading antenna with BC 610 E (Long-ish)

2008-01-17 Thread James M. Walker


- Original Message - 
From: John King [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: amradio@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 11:32 AM
Subject: [AMRadio] Loading antenna with BC 610 E



I am thrilled to report that I have my RRd BC 610 E
putting out lots of RF (about 370 watts) into a 50 ohm
Cantenna dummy load.


Good show, but be advised, BC-610s are NOT regular transmitters!
First off, the relay you are speaking of is NOT an antenna switching relay,
it is a grounding relay for the output section of the plate coil, when the
transmitter is in standby. when the transmitter is placed in transmit the
relay un-shorts the link of the coil, which should already be connected to
the dual insulators for open wire, and the SO-239 connector if you are
using coax.


I am experiencing some slight spitting and arcing at
built in antenna relay. I speculate that that spitting
is due to inadequate loading or RF transfer from the
final tank coil to the dummy load. I am feeding the
dummy load directly through coax connected to the two
feed through insulators on the output.



The E model had a MWO, that applied the SO-239 connector to the
same plate that the two feed-thru insulators are mounted on. Check the
schematic for proper connections, as the relay contacts should NOT have
RF on them unless activated, Ie; in transmit mode, relay closes, and the
short across the output link is removed.


I would appreciate recommendations regarding a
loading device to help transfer RF from the tank
coil to the antenna. Will installing a C2 from output
to ground tune the reactance out of the feed line and
facilitate loading the dummy load better or loading
the Coax feedline to the antenna??


In the manual, for all models, it says, with a load, either antenna, or 
dummy

load connected to the proper terminals, (NOTE: when using coax ensure
the shield goes to the chassis ground in/on the RF deck.

As for loading into 50 ohms, first I must say the cantenna is fine for 
checking

out smaller output radios, but again be advised the resistance of the dummy
load changes as the temperature in the can goes up, they used to have on
the side of the can a chart that could be related to the temperature, and 
then
the actual resistance. for a true test, and this depends on what liquid you 
are
using in the can, check the resistance of the load cold, then transmit into 
it

for about 3 minutes, remove power and check the resistance again, with an
accurate meter across the connector of the load, that will tell you what you 
are

dealing with. For a reasonablely reliable load might I suggest the ME-165,
which once calibrated holds true to accuracy if the instructions for it are
followed. Also it is rated for 600W continuous for a period in the manual.

If you want an antenna Switch might I suggest the E.F. Johnson TR-Switch?
I use them here and have experienced no problems with their operation, 
except
when I forget to turn down the audio from whatever receiver I am listening 
with!

Feedback, is my punishment for forgetting, not into the receiver, out of the
speaker from the receiver. Also as most of the BA type receivers have 
inputs

ranging from 50 - 300 ohms, you can taylor the receiver connection on the
unit to provide a better match to your receiver.

As for power output, Both of the units I run (E  I) models will provide
400 watts of carrier output into a dummy load. This requires some terms
however, first the unit MUST be running properly, next the tubes should be
of good quality, starting with the Oscillator and going to the PA output.

One last word set it up JUST LIKE the manual says it will run forever,
allowing for the vagarieties of older equipment. Also the output link is
optimized for 50 ohms, you increase or decrease the loading to the
output device by adjusting the coupling to the plate coil. If you can NOT
get proper loading then either the load is not 50 ohms or the tube is 
question-

able or dare I say it, you are doing it wrong.

As with all things radio, YMMV, enjoy the rig, I love mine!



I would appreciate the benefit of your actual
experience or knowledge to assist me in interfacing
this BC 610 E to a feedline. Thanks and 73, John, K5PGW




Jim
WB2FCN
Real Radios weigh 400+ pounds, have handles, and that makes them
PORTABLE
http://eshop1.chem.buffalo.edu


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Re: [AMRadio] T-368 FS on QTH

2008-01-17 Thread geoff
Joe Crawford wrote:

 W5DPP has his T-368 for sale on QTH.com. Ad #641748. Usual disclaimers apply.

Which one, I wonder?  He's got -at least- 2, but I -think- 3 of 'em.

--
73

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Re: [AMRadio] Mit Romoney disses Ham Radio

2008-01-17 Thread geoff
Peter Markavage wrote:
 Read the date; old news; topic beat to death several years ago; heard he
 loves ham now.

My apologies, ya'll.  Apparently, someone wanted people to think this
had something to do with the current election mess.  Guilty as charged.

--
73

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Re: [AMRadio] Loading antenna with BC 610 E

2008-01-17 Thread James M. Walker

Ola Gang,
The setup here is as follows:
BC-610(*) output SO-239 to PL-259 coax run, to PL-259
to TX connector on E.F. Johnson TR-Switch. Antenna connector
PL-259 to N connector.
N Connector goes to the input of the ME-165 SWR/Wattmeter.
N COnnector to output side of ME-165, coax run goes to input
of E.F. Johnson 1 KW Matchbox through the directional coupler.
The feed-line is homebrew open wire feeders to center fed dipole
cut for the Low end of 80 meters, same antenna tunes 80-40-20 meters
for the BC-610(*) transmitters.

Works great, YMMV
Jim
WB2FCN

- Original Message - 
From: Warren Elly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service 
amradio@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Loading antenna with BC 610 E


What my BC-610I has is an so239 mounted in the sidepanel just below  the 
feed thrus.

its connected to the feedthrus...
i have a dowkey antenna relay hung off of it, and feed 375 watts out  all 
day long into 50 ohms. I also pretune into a dummy load the same  way.
I use a tuner rated at 3k watts to tune 470 ohm feeders on a full wave 
loop on 75. using a 5kv 4 to 1 ballun to

bring the coax into the shack.
73 warren w1gud



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Re: [AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations

2008-01-17 Thread D. Chester

Is there a difference in feeding each of the inside sockets on the
jack-bar with B+ from the top of the RF plate choke, vs having the two
coils tied together, in the middle, and feeding B+ there?

I understand that the potential is the same, but for the sake of having
less stray capacitance and a 'cleaner' RF environment, which would be
better, and please... tell me why?



-Geoff/W5OMR


I don't think it makes much difference, particularly on 160-40m and I have 
seen it done both ways.  Actually, tying the two halves of the coil together 
in the middle would introduce less stray capacitance and inductance to the 
coil.  I think the reason for the split coil and separate connectors for 
each half is to give you the option of  metering each tube separately with 
the series fed circuit in which the coil is hot with HV and carries the DC 
plate current to the final.  Also,  those coils can be used in a  link 
coupled antenna tuner, and the split coil gives the option of series feed 
using a conventional split stator capacitor.


As for the vacuum capacitor, the tank should still remain balanced if care 
is taken with the layout.  I suspect it would be more sensitive to unbalance 
due to stray capacitance and differences in lead length, than with all the 
capacitance in a split capacitor.


Don k4kyv 


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[AMRadio] NO POLITICS

2008-01-17 Thread A.R.S. - WA5AM
No discussions of politics are allowed on this email list people

That rule has been in place since the very beginning.

Thanks.
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RE: [AMRadio] Mit Romoney disses Ham Radio

2008-01-17 Thread Ed Sieb
The article was posted on Wednesday 16 November 2005.  Over two years go.
It is irrelevant today.

Ed, VA3ES

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Re: [AMRadio] Home-brewing construction considerations

2008-01-17 Thread geoff
D. Chester wrote:

 I don't think it makes much difference, particularly on 160-40m and I
 have seen it done both ways.  

Having these two 250TH rf decks, side-by-side, allows me to see how
things are done, both ways.  The RF deck in what has been affectionately
dubbed the 'Titanic' by K5SWK (I was a Johnny novice, experimenting and
playing, and it was down more than it was up) has a metal bar that
screws into the inside HDVL sockets, and the top of the RF choke screws
into the center of that bar.  B+ from the RF choke is applied to each of
the two coils evenly.

The new (to me) 250TH RF deck, built by Mike Spaan/W5IMF has a
home-brewed HDVL spaced jack-bar, but the coil has only three banana
plugs on the bottom side, and the inside of the two coils are tied together.

 Actually, tying the two halves of the coil together in the middle
 would introduce less stray capacitance and inductance to the coil.  I
 think the reason for the split coil and separate connectors for each
 half is to give you the option of  metering each tube separately with
 the series fed circuit in which the coil is hot with HV and carries
 the DC plate current to the final.

It would seem, at first glance, that dual plate meters would certainly
help in neutralizing the final.

 As for the vacuum capacitor, the tank should still remain balanced if
 care is taken with the layout.  I suspect it would be more sensitive
 to unbalance due to stray capacitance and differences in lead length,
 than with all the capacitance in a split capacitor.

The plug-in coil for this rig, with 3-pins on the bottom side of the
jack-bar, also has a 50uuf vacuum capacitor across the entire coil,
presumably for  resonating on 75m.   Each side is identical in construction.

I'll take pictures, and put 'em somewhere.  It's sometimes difficult to
grasp the correct/proper words for description purposes.

As an aside, I wired the thing up, and had it producing RF this
evening.   Even plate modulated the final, and made a good contact with
Steve/WA1QIX there in Massachusetts.   HE said the thing sounded fine,
and audio was good, clean and clear.  What concerned me was that the
grid meter was dropping on voice peaks.  Now, to be fair I was driving
that final with a rice-box (TS-450S) at around 30w.  It drove the grids
to around 125mA.  I never had a problem with the Viking II driving the
other rig, using the same modulator.  I also didn't hear the modulation
transformer talk-back when I'm on the original rig, like I heard this
evening.   Was only running 200w.

I'll do some more checking, tomorrow.

Good night Mr and Mrs Ship and all the Americans at sea.
from radio station KA5THB... no wait.. wrong call ;-)

--
73 de W5OMR
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Re: [AMRadio] Mit Romoney disses Ham Radio

2008-01-17 Thread W4AWM
I found that out AFTER I wrote a nasty but respectful note to his campaign! 
The moderator is right on. No politics here!  Enough!

73,  

John,  W4AWM


**
Start the year off right.  Easy ways to stay in 
shape.
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