Re: [AMRadio] THE VIKING II AND FRIED HAM

2007-03-28 Thread DOXEMF
Hello,
 The Antenna relay socket is a simple crystal socket in my VKII's. I just took 
a useless metal xtal, unsoldered the shell and made an opening for a grommet 
and zip cord to go to the relay. Then resoldered and injected silicone glue 
past the cord.
  One of those things you do when it is needed.
  But when I get around to rebuilding the VK's will place a small 24 volt 
transformer or a relay inside and put pin jack 
sockets or whatever connector will mount in the holes without modification.

 Definitely a dangerous spot for hot AC line voltage!!
Can't imagine what EFJ was thinking there! A simple AC socket like on stereo 
amps would have been fine.

 Of course the line cord must be 3 wire polarized and properly fused.

73's
 Bill
KB3DKS/1
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Re: [AMRadio] THE VIKING II AND FRIED HAM

2007-03-28 Thread David McClafferty
Not sure about the Viking II, but in the Valiant, the internal fuse is only in 
the primary of the HV xfmr. The line plug fuses protect evertything else. I 
replaced the single internal fuseholder with a double one and used the second 
holder for a single fuse in the hot side of the line only and replaced the line 
cord with a 3 conductor and 3 prong prang.

Dave, VE1ADH

- Original Message 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: amradio@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL 
PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 11:41:07 AM
Subject: [AMRadio] THE VIKING II AND FRIED HAM


Hi Ed,

You are correct and I noticed that after I posted.  In the Viking II, there 
is an additional fuse in the primary circuit which is mounted in a holder on 
the chassis.  Not so in the Ranger where the fuses are in that infamous fused 
plug.  My original
V II came with the fused plug and the internal fuse.  The only possible 
reason I can see for this was to protect the antenna relay socket regardless of 
which way the line cord was plugged into the wall outlet.  Seems like the 
engineers would have just put the hot side of the socket on the other side of 
the 
fuse and one problem would have been solved.

Thanks for your comments,

73,

John,  W4AWM






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Re: [AMRadio] THE VIKING II AND FRIED HAM

2007-03-28 Thread W4AWM
The internal fuse in the Viking II is in line with the low and high voltage 
transformer primaries and protects both.  As stated before, there is no 
prorection for the antenna relay socket unless the original fused line plug is 
used.  
This is not a good idea and it should be replaced as you said, with internal 
fuses. If wired correctly, only one additional fuse would be needed to protect 
both sides of the line and the lead to the relay socket should be moved ahead 
of the fuse to protect that outlet.

73, 

 John,  W4AWM

  I replaced the single internal fuseholder with a double one and used the 
second holder for a single fuse in the hot side of the line only and replaced 
the line cord with a 3 conductor and 3 prong prang. 



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Re: [AMRadio] THE VIKING II AND FRIED HAM ++CORRECTION++

2007-03-28 Thread W4AWM
In a message dated 3/28/2007 17:52:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL 
PROTECTED] 
writes:

 the lead to the relay socket should be moved ahead 
 of the fuse to protect that outlet.
 

CORRECTION:  Sorry, that should read after the fuse!

73,  

John,  W4AWM


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RE: [AMRadio] THE VIKING II AND FRIED HAM

2007-03-28 Thread Gary Schafer
It is a good idea to use a separate fuse for the high voltage and the low
voltage. With one fuse only you can have a short on the low voltage and it
will cook the low voltage transformer and never blow the fuse. BTDT.

73
Gary  K4FMX

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:amradio-
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 5:52 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Cc: amradio@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [AMRadio] THE VIKING II AND FRIED HAM
 
 The internal fuse in the Viking II is in line with the low and high
 voltage
 transformer primaries and protects both.  As stated before, there is no
 prorection for the antenna relay socket unless the original fused line
 plug is used.
 This is not a good idea and it should be replaced as you said, with
 internal
 fuses. If wired correctly, only one additional fuse would be needed to
 protect
 both sides of the line and the lead to the relay socket should be moved
 ahead
 of the fuse to protect that outlet.
 
 73,
 
  John,  W4AWM
 
   I replaced the single internal fuseholder with a double one and used
 the
 second holder for a single fuse in the hot side of the line only and
 replaced
 the line cord with a 3 conductor and 3 prong prang. 
 
 
 
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Re: [AMRadio] THE VIKING II AND FRIED HAM

2007-03-28 Thread gkb
And, if you do cook that low voltage tranny, shoot me an email. I have two
new rewinds setting on the shelf, ready to bolt in.
Regards,
Gary...WZ1M
- Original Message - 
From: Gary Schafer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service'
amradio@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 5:48 PM
Subject: RE: [AMRadio] THE VIKING II AND FRIED HAM


 It is a good idea to use a separate fuse for the high voltage and the low
 voltage. With one fuse only you can have a short on the low voltage and it
 will cook the low voltage transformer and never blow the fuse. BTDT.

 73
 Gary  K4FMX

  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:amradio-
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 5:52 PM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Cc: amradio@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [AMRadio] THE VIKING II AND FRIED HAM
 
  The internal fuse in the Viking II is in line with the low and high
  voltage
  transformer primaries and protects both.  As stated before, there is no
  prorection for the antenna relay socket unless the original fused line
  plug is used.
  This is not a good idea and it should be replaced as you said, with
  internal
  fuses. If wired correctly, only one additional fuse would be needed to
  protect
  both sides of the line and the lead to the relay socket should be moved
  ahead
  of the fuse to protect that outlet.
 
  73,
 
   John,  W4AWM
 
I replaced the single internal fuseholder with a double one and used
  the
  second holder for a single fuse in the hot side of the line only and
  replaced
  the line cord with a 3 conductor and 3 prong prang. 
 
 
 
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[AMRadio] THE VIKING II AND FRIED HAM

2007-03-27 Thread W4AWM
There has been a lot of talk tonight about a matching connector for the 
Viking II rear panel antenna changeover relay socket. The Ranger has a similar 
socket. In the case of the Viking II, one side of this socket is connected 
directly to one side of the line cord. If the external double fused plug has 
been 
removed and replaced with a standard 2 wire AC plug, there is no fuse between 
one 
side of the connector and the line.  In the Ranger, the same situation 
exists. To prevent disaster, the first thing that users of these transmitters 
should 
to is remove the fused plug and replace the line cord with a properly wired 3 
conductor line cord set. The antenna relay connector should be wired to the 
neutral side if the new line cord.

The original matching connector is a dangerous thing. It is all but 
impossible to get shrink tubing to stick to the pins and electrical tape around 
the 
whole connector will eventually dry up and come off. I have no connection with 
Glen, but his connector is a very safe way to access the antenna relay socket 
on 
both rigs.

Many hams, myself included, either mount the antenna changeover relay on the 
rear of the Viking or on the receiver rear panel. Some others simply use a 
double male SO-239 connector. My point here is that the terminals on the relay 
coil need to be insulated, too. Back in the 50s when I built my Viking II, I 
remember trying to get tape to stick to the supplied plug, but I don't recall 
ever insulating the terminals on the relay coil.  How I kept from being fried 
with this arrangement is a wonder to me. I guess being a fresh new ham, I never 
thought too much about it. All the cautions back in those days from my Elmer 
were to be wary of HV. I guess nobody gave line voltage a second thought and if 
they did, it was not talked about very much. 

Remember, it is not the voltage that kills, it's the current. An electrical 
current flowing through the body is looking to find a ground. When it does the 
body reacts by contracting muscle tissue. When this happens and you happen to 
be holding on to something, you can't let go. If nobody is there to stop the 
flow of current, ventricular fibrillation occurs when electrical signals from 
the brain to the heart are interrupted. The result is that the heart begins to 
beat in an irregular rhythm and is unable to pump blood properly. Unless the 
victim received proper and immediate first aid, death follows shortly. You have 
heard the phrase from old timers: Keep one hand in your pocket while working 
around voltage sources. The idea here is to keep you from having current 
flow across your chest and through your heart.

I am not a doctor, nor a medical practioner of any sort, but many first aid 
courses, electrical safety seminars and a few nasty bites have taught me to 
respect all sources of voltage be they LV, HV Line voltage or even batteries. 
Switch to safety and install 3 wire cord sets on all your boatanchors. Being 
able to probe around in much of the solid state gear has caused many to become 
complacent about shock. Don't let your guard down.

73 and stay safe,

John,  W4AWM



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Re: [AMRadio] THE VIKING II AND FRIED HAM

2007-03-27 Thread Mike Sawyer
When I was in the Navy, I was taught that the most dangerous voltage is 120 
VAC. Because we take it for granted and don't give it the respect that it 
truly deserves.
Mod-U-Lator,
Mike(y)
W3SLK
---

There has been a lot of talk tonight about a matching connector for the
Viking II rear panel antenna changeover relay socket. The Ranger has a 
similar
socket. In the case of the Viking II, one side of this socket is connected
directly to one side of the line cord. If the external double fused plug has 
been
removed and replaced with a standard 2 wire AC plug, there is no fuse 
between one
side of the connector and the line.  In the Ranger, the same situation
exists. To prevent disaster, the first thing that users of these 
transmitters should
to is remove the fused plug and replace the line cord with a properly wired 
3
conductor line cord set. The antenna relay connector should be wired to the
neutral side if the new line cord.

The original matching connector is a dangerous thing. It is all but
impossible to get shrink tubing to stick to the pins and electrical tape 
around the
whole connector will eventually dry up and come off. I have no connection 
with
Glen, but his connector is a very safe way to access the antenna relay 
socket on
both rigs.

Many hams, myself included, either mount the antenna changeover relay on the
rear of the Viking or on the receiver rear panel. Some others simply use a
double male SO-239 connector. My point here is that the terminals on the 
relay
coil need to be insulated, too. Back in the 50s when I built my Viking II, I
remember trying to get tape to stick to the supplied plug, but I don't 
recall
ever insulating the terminals on the relay coil.  How I kept from being 
fried
with this arrangement is a wonder to me. I guess being a fresh new ham, I 
never
thought too much about it. All the cautions back in those days from my Elmer
were to be wary of HV. I guess nobody gave line voltage a second thought and 
if
they did, it was not talked about very much.

Remember, it is not the voltage that kills, it's the current. An electrical
current flowing through the body is looking to find a ground. When it does 
the
body reacts by contracting muscle tissue. When this happens and you happen 
to
be holding on to something, you can't let go. If nobody is there to stop the
flow of current, ventricular fibrillation occurs when electrical signals 
from
the brain to the heart are interrupted. The result is that the heart begins 
to
beat in an irregular rhythm and is unable to pump blood properly. Unless the
victim received proper and immediate first aid, death follows shortly. You 
have
heard the phrase from old timers: Keep one hand in your pocket while 
working
around voltage sources. The idea here is to keep you from having current
flow across your chest and through your heart.

I am not a doctor, nor a medical practioner of any sort, but many first aid
courses, electrical safety seminars and a few nasty bites have taught me to
respect all sources of voltage be they LV, HV Line voltage or even 
batteries.
Switch to safety and install 3 wire cord sets on all your boatanchors. 
Being
able to probe around in much of the solid state gear has caused many to 
become
complacent about shock. Don't let your guard down.

73 and stay safe,

John,  W4AWM




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