[BAROQUE-LUTE] Re: Adirondack spruce

2009-09-16 Thread Edward Martin

Anthony,

Knowledge of various top woods is an area of 
which I have little knowledge, so I dare not make 
public statements in these areas.


Concensus does state that Adirondack is a 
fantastic top wood, and the proof will be in the playing!


ed

At 02:29 AM 9/16/2009, Anthony Hind wrote:

Ed
I didn't know anything either, but thought I should try to find
some basic knowledge to be able to discuss with lutemakers.
I feel sure that lute players of the past had far more knowledge than
we have today about woods and lute structure and how these
affect the sound that they were wanting to achieve. Indeed, some
luteplayers, such as Jacques Gautier appear to have been lutemakers,
or at least lute designers themselves (he is described as maker of
lutes for masques in the "programme" for one masque of the time).

As I understand it Sitka spruce is not equivalent to Bear Claw, but
Bear Claw is quite prevalent in that particular species. It seems
rather that Bear claw Sika is close in hardness to Adirondak. I have
no idea if Adirondak can also have Bear claw, but from what others
say, it seems most of it is quite young, in which case this is rather
unlikely.

Here is an example of Bear Claw, for those who have probably seen it,
but know it by another name:
Horizontal Bear claw
http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m215/ag-no3phile/lute%20playing/ 
soundboard/?action=view¤t=BearClaw1.jpg

Vertical Bear Claw
http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m215/ag-no3phile/lute%20playing/ 
soundboard/?action=view¤t=BearClaw2.jpg

Bear Claw on guitar table
http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m215/ag-no3phile/lute%20playing/ 
soundboard/?action=view¤t=BearClaw6.png


I know a Baroque Gamba that was made out of the wood of an ancient
destroyed Chinese building (while making new roads).
The table shows superb Bear claw marks, and one would presume that
this would have been from a far eastern variety, so probably not Sitka.

I am looking forward to hearing about how it sounds, and actually
just hearing it, on your next CD!

Anthony


Le 15 sept. 09 à 15:19, Edward Martin a écrit :


Anthony,

Thank you for your reply.  The subject of top woods is very
interesting, and it is something of which I have little knowledge.I
have also read the forums on this subject.  I had not known that
Sitka spruce is also known as bear claw.

Whether the lute will sound rich immediately is not known, but I
ought to discover it soon!

ed



At 04:44 AM 9/15/2009, Anthony Hind wrote:

Dear Ed
   I had a look at what guitar sites said about Adirondack, and
it seems "that the chief benefit of using Adirondak Spruce as a top
is its stiffness to weight ratio."
http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/ t-51636.html

Presumably this makes it possible to cut the table thinner, and so
its reactions should become faster (similar to what happens with
carbon).
This is also what Mimmo tells me about spruce treated with salts. The
wood becomes much harder, and can be cut thinner.

That is also why, Martin Haycock told me he liked to use Bird's eye
maple for backs; because it is relatively hard, he can cut it thinner
than Sycamore.

Incidentally, on the guitar page, there is a tendancy to associate
Bearclaw  Sitka, with Adirondak, for the same reason.

"the qualities of Bearclaw Sitka allow it to be worked to achieve
better tone. Due to it's superior stiffness the top can be
dimensioned a little thinner (perhaps this isn't done by the
"factory" guitar makers?). This should translate into a faster attack
transient (an essential characteristic for clean, fast flat picking).
If that is what you are looking for, then that would be better."

(However, I was also told, "The rather unusual 'bear claw' figure
seems to be an irregularity of
the annual rings themselves, and as you have seen for yourself, can
be very
variable. Wood showing this figure seems generally to be stiff and
acoustically good, although I do not think especially better than
normal
wood, and I would rather use it for its decorative qualities, and not
assume
it wil be superior acoustically."

Now, presumably, if Adirondak (or Bear claw Sika) were used as though
it were regular European Spruce, it would need far longer running-in.
It would presumably show higher resistance to vibration.

On the other hand, I read somewhere on a violin page that you do need
to accept a fairly long playing-in time; that it is quite easy to
make a top that can be run-in quickly, by making it too thin, but
then it tends to die early too.

However I am sure Daniel will make you a superb Adirondak
top,
although I rather agree with David, that this does not mean that many
lutemakers will swap over to it. I don't think that the very
successful experiments with salts loaded spruce tops has lead many
lutemakers to try it.

The main thing is that you will soon be back playing 11c music, and
perhaps we will have another excellent recording like your recent
Conradi - Kelner record.

Best wishes
Anthony


Le 1

[BAROQUE-LUTE] Re: Adirondack spruce

2009-09-16 Thread Anthony Hind

Dear Martyn
Le 15 sept. 09 à 16:51, Martyn Hodgson a écrit :


Dear Anthony,

I don't know if you are aware of the pioneering work on treatment  
of violin wood which Joseph Michelman undertook in the US during  
the 1940s: his work was published (VIOLIN VARNISH) in 1946.


No, I heard of the more recent work relating to salt loading of  
Strads by the Hungarian, Nagyvary

http://www.newscientist.com/article.ns?id=dn10686
http://tinyurl.com/62juy9
Presumably, he was basing his research on the ideas of Michelman.

Mimmo also carried out similar research, noting that metallic salts  
replace the sap compounds in the wood and make it as hard as stone.
The earliest reference, I believe to treating instruments with salts,  
is in a work by Bernard Palissy.


Thank you for telling me about this work by Michelman, I would indeed  
be interested in reading it.
I seem to remember when I was a child that cricket bats were soaked  
in linseed oil, and that if this was not done
they would crack almost immediately. I just assumed that the oils  
somehow made the wood more supple (less brittle), but I didn't think  
harder,
but presumably, if the process is similar to that discussed by  
Michelman, it should result both in a more flexibilty and a harder wood.


Could this process be attempted on a completed lute (similarly to the  
cricket bat)? I am not suggesting one should try, just wondering.


In the case of the salts, I think the wood becomes more dense, and so  
this allows it to be cut thinner, while it sounds as though linseed
might simply make the wood lighter (whatever its thickness), but  
perhaps I have not completely grasped the concept.


I will certainly have to read Michelman before liberally applying the  
linseed!

Anthony







I believe Michelman was a chemist and certainly his book  
demonstrates a rigourous appoach to violin varnish and belly  
treatments than many earlier works. What may be on interest in the  
context of salt loading of sounboards
is that he reported on what he believed the early makers used to  
permanently reduce the unecessary weight of the sounboard and  
improve stifness. In his case he conducted trials and concluded  
that linseed oil  was used which replaced the heavier water content  
much, perhaps, in the same way as salt loading may do. Michelman  
also described work with 'metal soaps' which are produced when  
water soluble salts react with fatty acids in the wood - I presume  
this is also linked to salt loading outcomes.

In short, well worth a read if you're interested in the subject

Martyn


--- On Tue, 15/9/09, Anthony Hind  wrote:


From: Anthony Hind 
Subject: [BAROQUE-LUTE] Re: Adirondack spruce
To: baroque-lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
Date: Tuesday, 15 September, 2009, 10:45 AM
Dear Ed
   I had a look at what guitar
sites said about Adirondack, and it seems "that the chief
benefit of using Adirondak Spruce as a top is its stiffness
to weight ratio."
http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/ 
t-51636.html


Presumably this makes it possible to cut the table thinner,
and so its reactions should become faster (similar to what
happens with carbon).
This is also what Mimmo tells me about spruce treated with
salts. The wood becomes much harder, and can be cut
thinner.

That is also why, Martin Haycock told me he liked to use
Bird's eye maple for backs; because it is relatively hard,
he can cut it thinner than Sycamore.

Incidentally, on the guitar page, there is a tendancy to
associate Bearclaw  Sitka, with Adirondak, for the same
reason.

"the qualities of Bearclaw Sitka allow it to be worked to
achieve better tone. Due to it's superior stiffness the top
can be dimensioned a little thinner (perhaps this isn't done
by the "factory" guitar makers?). This should translate into
a faster attack transient (an essential characteristic for
clean, fast flat picking). If that is what you are looking
for, then that would be better."

(However, I was also told, "The rather unusual 'bear claw'
figure seems to be an irregularity of
the annual rings themselves, and as you have seen for
yourself, can be very
variable. Wood showing this figure seems generally to be
stiff and
acoustically good, although I do not think especially
better than normal
wood, and I would rather use it for its decorative
qualities, and not assume
it wil be superior acoustically."

Now, presumably, if Adirondak (or Bear claw Sika) were used
as though it were regular European Spruce, it would need far
longer running-in.
It would presumably show higher resistance to vibration.

On the other hand, I read somewhere on a violin page that
you do need to accept a fairly long playing-in time; that it
is quite easy to make a top that can be run-in quickly, by
making it too thin, but then it tends to die early too.

However I am sure Daniel will make you a
superb Adirondak top, although I rather agree with David,
that this does not mean that many lutemakers will swap over
to it. I don't think

[BAROQUE-LUTE] Re: Adirondack spruce

2009-09-16 Thread Anthony Hind

Ed
I didn't know anything either, but thought I should try to find  
some basic knowledge to be able to discuss with lutemakers.
I feel sure that lute players of the past had far more knowledge than  
we have today about woods and lute structure and how these
affect the sound that they were wanting to achieve. Indeed, some  
luteplayers, such as Jacques Gautier appear to have been lutemakers,
or at least lute designers themselves (he is described as maker of  
lutes for masques in the "programme" for one masque of the time).


As I understand it Sitka spruce is not equivalent to Bear Claw, but  
Bear Claw is quite prevalent in that particular species. It seems  
rather that Bear claw Sika is close in hardness to Adirondak. I have  
no idea if Adirondak can also have Bear claw, but from what others  
say, it seems most of it is quite young, in which case this is rather  
unlikely.


Here is an example of Bear Claw, for those who have probably seen it,  
but know it by another name:

Horizontal Bear claw
http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m215/ag-no3phile/lute%20playing/ 
soundboard/?action=view¤t=BearClaw1.jpg

Vertical Bear Claw
http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m215/ag-no3phile/lute%20playing/ 
soundboard/?action=view¤t=BearClaw2.jpg

Bear Claw on guitar table
http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m215/ag-no3phile/lute%20playing/ 
soundboard/?action=view¤t=BearClaw6.png


I know a Baroque Gamba that was made out of the wood of an ancient  
destroyed Chinese building (while making new roads).
The table shows superb Bear claw marks, and one would presume that  
this would have been from a far eastern variety, so probably not Sitka.


I am looking forward to hearing about how it sounds, and actually  
just hearing it, on your next CD!


Anthony


Le 15 sept. 09 à 15:19, Edward Martin a écrit :


Anthony,

Thank you for your reply.  The subject of top woods is very  
interesting, and it is something of which I have little knowledge.I  
have also read the forums on this subject.  I had not known that  
Sitka spruce is also known as bear claw.


Whether the lute will sound rich immediately is not known, but I  
ought to discover it soon!


ed



At 04:44 AM 9/15/2009, Anthony Hind wrote:

Dear Ed
   I had a look at what guitar sites said about Adirondack, and
it seems "that the chief benefit of using Adirondak Spruce as a top
is its stiffness to weight ratio."
http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/ 
t-51636.html


Presumably this makes it possible to cut the table thinner, and so
its reactions should become faster (similar to what happens with
carbon).
This is also what Mimmo tells me about spruce treated with salts. The
wood becomes much harder, and can be cut thinner.

That is also why, Martin Haycock told me he liked to use Bird's eye
maple for backs; because it is relatively hard, he can cut it thinner
than Sycamore.

Incidentally, on the guitar page, there is a tendancy to associate
Bearclaw  Sitka, with Adirondak, for the same reason.

"the qualities of Bearclaw Sitka allow it to be worked to achieve
better tone. Due to it's superior stiffness the top can be
dimensioned a little thinner (perhaps this isn't done by the
"factory" guitar makers?). This should translate into a faster attack
transient (an essential characteristic for clean, fast flat picking).
If that is what you are looking for, then that would be better."

(However, I was also told, "The rather unusual 'bear claw' figure
seems to be an irregularity of
the annual rings themselves, and as you have seen for yourself, can
be very
variable. Wood showing this figure seems generally to be stiff and
acoustically good, although I do not think especially better than  
normal

wood, and I would rather use it for its decorative qualities, and not
assume
it wil be superior acoustically."

Now, presumably, if Adirondak (or Bear claw Sika) were used as though
it were regular European Spruce, it would need far longer running-in.
It would presumably show higher resistance to vibration.

On the other hand, I read somewhere on a violin page that you do need
to accept a fairly long playing-in time; that it is quite easy to
make a top that can be run-in quickly, by making it too thin, but
then it tends to die early too.

However I am sure Daniel will make you a superb Adirondak  
top,

although I rather agree with David, that this does not mean that many
lutemakers will swap over to it. I don't think that the very
successful experiments with salts loaded spruce tops has lead many
lutemakers to try it.

The main thing is that you will soon be back playing 11c music, and
perhaps we will have another excellent recording like your recent
Conradi - Kelner record.

Best wishes
Anthony


Le 15 sept. 09 à 05:45, Edward Martin a écrit :


Thanks, David.

I fully understand that a new lute (i.e. top, in my case) will not
sound as seasoned as an older one, but in this case, I had no  
option,

due to the damage.

I have heard that "righ