Re: Corn == Soil Improvement Crop
Hugh, Thank you for your feed back. I think you are right on. We both know that we are closer in our thinking than the mean of the list, but still have some different view points. I think in the interest of the greater whole, we should fire away on an open discussion of rain making and the finner points of broadcasting, with the right to not put in the public domain the very latest, as it is on that, which at least you income is to some degrere reliant. So if we are prepared to talk in terms of one or two year old tecnology, let us share with the list Gil Hugh Lovel wrote: I envy those with the climate to grow un-irrigated corn. We are at the harvest end of the corn season and have had 48 days straight with no rain and about nine points in 85 days. This is our dry season, but for a lot of important parts of Oz it is their rainy season and many on this list are very short of rain. Gil Port Lincoln Dear Gil, You may not be out of the box. Here in Georgia I've found dry years are preferable for my corn yields. I've had several years where I got six weeks (42 days) of no rain and gotten killer corn crops with no irrigation. I know farmers all around me were complaining, and the forests were on fire on one occasion, but my corn wasn't twisting. Instead it was filling out to the ends of the ears. I actually prefer dry years, especially early dry, because in early dry years the weeds don't get off to much of a start and the corn takes everything. I think the secret is getting the moisture to tie up inside the cell membranes of living organisms in the soil. Then it doesn't evaporate or sink, just is there. As the protozoans dine off the azotobacters, baccilli, etc. the moisture is released at the corn roots and the plants suck it up, despite no rain. As long as corn gets its nutrients as the next thing to protoplasm it doesn't have to waste moisture in transpiration. The leaves aren't doing the protein chemistry, which requires water, only the sugar chemistry which runs off of absorption of CO2. Then they need a lot less moisture and their protoplasm is turgid and complete. 48 days is a lot of time without rain. But I think maybe I could handle it with a broadcaster and horn clay, horn silica and horn manure. We get dry here, but six weeks is not uncommon and that has made my best corn crops. But I guess I'm a little short of sunshine being in a narrow mountain valley. But in your situation I don't think I'd give up hope. We're kind of at the antipodes--almost like you but six months different. Making rain is another topic. Maybe my rain making is why after six weeks and I get anxious about rain I've turned to rain making and gotten rain instead of seven or eight weeks without any. I've gotten the impression this list is skeptical about my rain making procedure. Believe me 501 really is an essential ingredient in making rain, contrary to the Podolinsky wisdom. I like to do it radionically, so not everyone can duplicate it, not having instruments. I don't find sequential spraying quite as effective and it's much more work, though done rightly it can be close to as good. I've used my irrigation once in the past 12 years, many of which have been state-wide droughts in Georgia, so I might just know something. Anyone interested in a run down? Best, Hugh Best, Hugh Lovel
Re: What Brewer are You using? was Re: BD 508 equesetum
Hi All, Elaine is in Tauranga N.Z. bringing us up to speed on the latest in soil biology, compost and compost tea makers. Peter. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 8:08 AM Subject: Re: What Brewer are You using? was Re: BD 508 equesetum In a message dated 3/11/02 1:09:30 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I am making my own, finally using my BS in marine biology.SStorch wanna talk about it? What are you using as a compost bag? No compost bag, I let it fee flow with the water. I build an upwelling pipe and lift the water with air. What are you using for aeration? I use a really high grade aquarium pump For pumping? There is no pumping, I move the liquid exclusively with air and gravity feed into the spray tank. For a tank? I have a variety of cylindrical tanks, cone bottom tanks and aqua-culture tanks. (Did I leave anything out?) If you want to put it on the schedule for the fall I will bring the newest stirring machine and a compost tea brewer to the fall conference SStorch thanks
Re: Watering the garden
Don't need to worry about upsetting us Kiwis. we sympathise with you as we have an of shore island somewhere out west and I think it is called Australia!! Peter. You will upset my kiwi cousins referring to it as my South Island. I am in Port Lincoln, South Australia. They also get upset when we talk of the outer islands.
Re: Corn == Soil Improvement Crop
Hugh - I would appreciate a step-by-step rundown. We moved into drought conditions last year and had the driest winter just about on record. Looks like being able to make rain could really come in handy. Best, Essie At 11:55 PM 3/16/02 -0500, Hugh wrote: I envy those with the climate to grow un-irrigated corn. We are at the harvest end of the corn season and have had 48 days straight with no rain and about nine points in 85 days. This is our dry season, but for a lot of important parts of Oz it is their rainy season and many on this list are very short of rain. Gil Port Lincoln Dear Gil, You may not be out of the box. Here in Georgia I've found dry years are preferable for my corn yields. I've had several years where I got six weeks (42 days) of no rain and gotten killer corn crops with no irrigation. I know farmers all around me were complaining, and the forests were on fire on one occasion, but my corn wasn't twisting. Instead it was filling out to the ends of the ears. I actually prefer dry years, especially early dry, because in early dry years the weeds don't get off to much of a start and the corn takes everything. I think the secret is getting the moisture to tie up inside the cell membranes of living organisms in the soil. Then it doesn't evaporate or sink, just is there. As the protozoans dine off the azotobacters, baccilli, etc. the moisture is released at the corn roots and the plants suck it up, despite no rain. As long as corn gets its nutrients as the next thing to protoplasm it doesn't have to waste moisture in transpiration. The leaves aren't doing the protein chemistry, which requires water, only the sugar chemistry which runs off of absorption of CO2. Then they need a lot less moisture and their protoplasm is turgid and complete. 48 days is a lot of time without rain. But I think maybe I could handle it with a broadcaster and horn clay, horn silica and horn manure. We get dry here, but six weeks is not uncommon and that has made my best corn crops. But I guess I'm a little short of sunshine being in a narrow mountain valley. But in your situation I don't think I'd give up hope. We're kind of at the antipodes--almost like you but six months different. Making rain is another topic. Maybe my rain making is why after six weeks and I get anxious about rain I've turned to rain making and gotten rain instead of seven or eight weeks without any. I've gotten the impression this list is skeptical about my rain making procedure. Believe me 501 really is an essential ingredient in making rain, contrary to the Podolinsky wisdom. I like to do it radionically, so not everyone can duplicate it, not having instruments. I don't find sequential spraying quite as effective and it's much more work, though done rightly it can be close to as good. I've used my irrigation once in the past 12 years, many of which have been state-wide droughts in Georgia, so I might just know something. Anyone interested in a run down? Best, Hugh Best, Hugh Lovel
Re: Watering the garden
Gil - Apologies to any participating Kiwis; I took your recent reference to the 'land of the long white cloud' to indicate that you live there. Yes, I live quite near Llanrhidian. Milford Haven is quite similar to the Fal estuary - of which, incidentally, I've also done an ecological survey. I love the Cornish coast, but then so do too many other people! The Pembrokeshire coast is comparable and not quite so heavily touristic - if you manage to visit Wales, I'd suggest that you base yourself somewhere on that south-western corner. Thanks, Thomas, for the endorsement - I'm sure that the Wales Tourist Board would be most grateful. Iechyd da! Tony N-S.
How to Grow Corn as a Soil Improvement Crop--ASK HUGH
Wayne, et. al., How to Grow Corn as a Soil Improvement Crop Corn makes a lot of organic matter. It sucks in a lot of carbon dioxide and turns it into sugars, starches, cellulose, etc. Ideally corn feeds the soil microbes profusely from the breakdown of its cotyledon even before its leaf sworl breaks the surface. It seems to do this better when the soil is dryer at planting than if it is wet. Ideally one should plant several days after a rain rather than before a rain. Ever see where three, four or more corn seeds sprout close together? Usually the middle one or ones will be the most robust, even though it might seem they ought to be competing for nutrients and the middle one(s) should be short changed. But check it out. This is not the case because the soil food web is what really feeds the corn best and it will be cooking best in the middle of the cluster where the concentration of root exudates is highest. Which suggests it is a good idea to plant corn at a density of three to four seeds per foot rather than further apart if you want the corn to really get off to a killer start. Corn is set for how much it will make by about the time the sixth leaf node develops. That's still pretty small, probably under a foot high for almost all corns. So corn really has to get off to a good start if it is to make well. For sure it doesn't need any weed competition when it is just emerging, so again it does better in dryer plantings than where the moisture gets the weeds really going. But what can happen, and has happened frequently (not always) for me is the corn starts feeding the azotobacters (Pfeiffer isolated 54 strains in a sample he studied of horn manure) before it ever breaks the surface. The key is all those root exudates. If you sprout corn you have to rinse it about 5 times a day to keep it from souring. But in good soil the root exudates feed the soil food web, and right away nitrogen gets fixed and feeds amino acids to all the other microorganisms in the soil. This actually works best when soluble nitrogen levels are low in the soil, so if you expect this to work you sure don't want raw manure or tankage and you don't even want much if any compost. Azotobacters depend on adequate calcium levels, to say nothing of molybdenum and some of the other trace metals. And the soil should have good structure so it gets air but also has enough cation exchange capacity (mainly provided by clay and humus) to supply the necessary minerals for nitrogen fixation to occur robustly. If your soil isn't there yet you may have to grow a legume like soybeans first. In fact, I normally plant soybeans in the offsets between corn rows as insurance for poorer areas. As long as the corn plant keeps making sugars and translocating them to the soil (the role of boron and aluminum in clay) and shedding these carbonaceous root exudates into the soil food web feasting at its roots it will get a large proportion of its nitrogen requirement as amino acids excreted by the protozoans feasting on the nitrogen fixers and their kin. Because these excreta are right there along the roots and easily absorbed the plant has a strong tendency to take them up before they can oxidize to nitrates. Then the corn's protoplasm is rich and turgid instead of salty and watery, and the corn plant grows more robustly than it would be able to if was fed nitrogen fertilizers. And the corn quality is superb. The corn plant assembles this rich diet of amino acids directly into protein in its growing parts and builds its peptides, duplicates its DNA, grows like gangbusters and makes the soil rich without the application of fertilizers. I've estimated a robust, high population, open-pollenated corn/soybean planting of 12 feet height can add as much as half a percent organic matter to the soil in a single season. Of course, you want to have rich organizational patterns of energy in both the soil and atmosphere if you want this to work like gangbusters. (See my website, www.unionag.org for pictures.) In particular using the horn clay patterns in my broadcasters seems to have been the missing ingredient for this situation to occur. Since I started using horn clay the soil patterns of horn manure and the atmosphere patterns of horn silica have joined together to really turn corn into a high octane grower like a dragster running on aviation fuel. Great stuff. I'd sure like to see others duplicate my success with this. Horn clay seems to have made my bamboo stand go nuts and double its size and growth rate too. It may do something similar for grapes and various other crops. Like I say, it can be a bit finicky getting corn off to a bang of a start in wetter soils where weeds may give it early competition and the nutrients the soil food web generates at the corn roots disperse more widely. I've had my best yields in drought years. But since I first started farming just seeing how the corn seedlings in the middle of a cluster consistantly were the most robust
RE: Corn == Soil Improvement Crop
Dear Hugh, You wrote: I think the secret is getting the moisture to tie up inside the cell membranes of living organisms in the soil. Then it doesn't evaporate or sink, just is there. A fascinating concept which I've never heard of before. Is this your (valid) theory Hugh, or have you done trials etc to quantify this? It obviously ties in with increased soil moisture through increased soil organic matter Thanks Stephen Barrow
RE: Planting Spuds - How do you do it?
Dear Hugh, You wrote: My experience is give them a good solid boost from the chunk of potato behind them and you can rely on getting a good yield...And I can't afford hauling out compost Hugh, are you farming on moderate to high clay % soil? I am growing in sandy soil (15 - 20%) and am finding that the quality of my potatoes suffers if I don't use lots of compost - both physical quality and health - without compost at planting, the skins are rough, flesh not as creamy and potato scab and marbling (misshapen potatoes, some with large round bumps - apparently caused by nematodes) are becoming more common. On top of that, I don't cut the potatoes - use whole, small seed potatoes at each planting. And there may be other things that would help. (In your post on peroxide.) A leading statement - so the question, such as what? I am doing everything by hand in soil which has a well aerated A horizon (20 - 30 cm) and soft plinthite for the B horizon (good water holding for the deeper rooted crops). I plan to use alot more Effective Micro-organisms (EM) (Kyusei Nature Farming) through irrigation, than in the past, which will improve the aeration of the soil. Also, I assume that a peroxide bath will have a similar effect when planting onion sets? You mention than you use peroxide and BD 500 on the potatoes. I assume the sequence is the peroxide bath is first, then allow the spuds to dry, then the BD 500 bath. Other way round, the peroxide would kill the microbes in the BD 500 - not so? I have started bathing my seed potatoes in EM with the current planting, and wish to combine this with the peroxide treatment with my next planting (later this week). Thanks for your posts on the subject. By the way, what is a spading machine? Stephen Barrow
Re: Frank Moody
on 17/3/02 11:45 PM, Wayne and Sharon McEachern at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Gil Robertson wrote: Would I be understating the bloody obvious, if I said that in the interest of the environment in which we live, we have an obligation to get the concepts of RS beyond the believing faithful and out into the real world. While we argue between our selves about my bugs and better mannered bugs than your bugs, the real world is crying out for our knowledge. Why can we not work together and with Nature to get the message out there and get chemicals out of the system for all time? Gil, I think that most of us (including yourself) already know the answer. Do we not live in a world which is greed driven and centered around oil usage and production despite our planet crying out We have had enough! Same thing with Ag.. Money drives the greater system. Corps. are bottom line sales. This money system will need retraining. Trying to change the Ag. environment to something that we (on this list) will embrace may very well come down to consciousness rising and new understandings coming about (that have always existed) surrounding our false reality. What does this mean? If one goes to one of the most read books in the world (Holy Bible), and reads closely, one might read that All things are [first created] in Spirit. If one then really understands and accepts this premise, we can then more easily accept how energetic applications with Radionics, Homeopathics, and BD preps can make such a powerful impact on farming, our environment, and on existence here in our false reality. Best. Wayne *~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~* Sharon and Wayne McEachern http://www.LightExpression.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] A Divine Program for Healing and Transformation and Expressing the Light A Ministry Dedicated to the Divine Process *~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~* Greetings all,( my apologies, still can't find where to snip messages) Agree whole heartedly with you Gil, we must try and get it out there, hence being part of the Eco-ag. looking forward to having consciousness as one of my topics I deliver. (would appreciate any titles to help inspire, those who have not considered such energies) Wayne it is not only greed, but understanding where the link with the land died, and that seems to stem (with no surprises) from Christianity, and Judaism. This thinking also ran parallel with classical thinking of Rome and Greece. In the thinking that we are superior, the earth is here for humans, that which we have domain over. It is this thinking that seems to have led to greed, as opposed to a self-sustaining way of thinking. Other religions hold themselves as a small part of the whole, inclusion in the web of life, not superior to. For any who may turn their noses up or away to those persuing this in the academic field, please try and understand, we do want to get it out there, and if that means to prove in scientific methods, we must find a way. Our aim is the same, only that we are trying to move it from our backyard into everyones back yard. Love Liz
Re: Corn == Soil Improvement Crop
Hugh, Thank you for your feed back. I think you are right on. We both know that we are closer in our thinking than the mean of the list, but still have some different view points. I think in the interest of the greater whole, we should fire away on an open discussion of rain making and the finner points of broadcasting, with the right to not put in the public domain the very latest, as it is on that, which at least you income is to some degrere reliant. So if we are prepared to talk in terms of one or two year old tecnology, let us share with the list Gil Dear Gil, et. al., I don't mind sharing all the latest. Unlike many others I know I don't keep proprietary knowledge in the hopes I will make money on it. That doesn't make sense to me because I believe what I'm best at selling is my expertise rather than some minor application of it. The more I share my expertise the more I seem to be in demand to teach and share more of my expertise. So rainmaking? I've had good success, but I don't suppose we are all that challenged here in the mountains of North Georgia. I'm sure it would be another story in, say, the Nevada desert. But, hey! The Nevada desert is rather a toxic place compared to North Georgia, and I'm sure the disorganizational effects of toxicity have profound effects on the weather. After all, rain only occurs when the moisture in the atmosphere becomes organized and condenses enough that clouds and rains occur. You might say organization is the basis of life, and toxicity is anti-organizational. Reich, pioneering psychologist and great genius though he was, had a penchant for making up terms almost as great as L. Ron Hubbard had. Hence we have his terms of Orgone, Oranur and DOR, along with cloudbuster and DOR-buster. I think I prefer the use of terms already long in use, such as organizational energy as compared to orgone energy. But what the heck. We could use chi or ki if we spoke Chinese or Japanese I suppose. I rather like Steiner's use of the term ether as in the warmth ether, light ether, chemical ether, life ether. Steiner uses this term entirely differently from the way James Clerk Maxwell did. Steiner's usage of the term ether is more along the lines of Paul Dirac's abstract, immaterial pattern medium or ether that gives rise to the wave/particle (or wavicle) nature of manifest things. Yet Dirac tended to view the ether as a completely abstract mathematical foundation for phenomena to exist rather than a fluctuating ether that could be enriched, depleted, stagnated, poisoned or cleaned up. Both Reich and Steiner, to say nothing of oriental Qi masters, are clear that plants and animals have etheric bodies that can be enriched, depleted, etc. And in the general environment our atmosphere, oceans and soils are permeated with etheric fields and flows even though these are not embodied in what we know of as living organisms. When he introduced the remedies sometimes called the BD preps, Steiner indicated that without introducing a new impulse to revitalize the earth it would become uninhabitable and die. That is, it WAS dying. The horn humus and horn silica remedies imparted such new impulses for the soil and the atmosphere. To link the two there should also be a horn clay remedy, and in my rainmaking as well as my field broadcaster I use such a remedy. You might say these remedies, and the others Steiner introduced to support these, can be used to enrich and clean up the ether fields on our planet. What Hugh Courtney found out was if we applied these remedies in a morning and evening sequence during a drought they tended to bring in rain. Another way of looking at it is they cleared up atmospheric stagnation, restoring organization to the atmosphere so that moisture clumped up in clouds and rain occurred. What my field broadcasting taught me was we didn't have to apply these remedies singly in tedious sequencing. We could combine them into an atmospheric complex and a soil complex and use these complexes in a morning and evening rhythm. This ended up working the best of all methods and could be applied to an area drawn on a map and treated with a radionic instrument such as a Hieronymus analyser or a Malcolm Rae extended range potentizer with interrupter. I can take my reagents out of the wells of my broadcaster and copy them on a water vial (labeled) with my Hieronymus analyser by putting the vial on the plate and the reagents in the well with the dials set on zero-zero. Then I can use the vial in the well of my Malcolm Rae along with a map of my farm's boundaries and treat in the early morning with horn silica, summer horn clay, horsetail, dandelion, valerian and nettle remedies. then again in the late afternoon I will do another treatment with horn manure, winter horn clay, yarrow, chamomile, oak bark and nettle remedies. I can repeat this procedure for as many days as I wish. And I can shine color slides in the well on the map and use lemon to break up atmospheric
RE: Corn == Soil Improvement Crop
Dear Hugh, You wrote: I think the secret is getting the moisture to tie up inside the cell membranes of living organisms in the soil. Then it doesn't evaporate or sink, just is there. A fascinating concept which I've never heard of before. Is this your (valid) theory Hugh, or have you done trials etc to quantify this? It obviously ties in with increased soil moisture through increased soil organic matter Thanks Stephen Barrow Dear Stephen, I don't have that kind of research budget or the time required, but I'm pretty sure there must be something to it. My soil is very much alive, and it holds on to moisture amazingly well. Much better than I can account for by clay and humus. I know there are a lot of active microbes in it, and it seems to make sense. I'm baffled if no one out there has looked into this more deeply. Best, Hugh
RE: Planting Spuds - How do you do it?
Stephen, Yes, I'm growing on clay. Great stuff once you get some life into it. Compost needn't be much on these soils any more, though once I was using huge quantities of it like you seem to be. Best, Hugh Dear Hugh, You wrote: My experience is give them a good solid boost from the chunk of potato behind them and you can rely on getting a good yield...And I can't afford hauling out compost Hugh, are you farming on moderate to high clay % soil? I am growing in sandy soil (15 - 20%) and am finding that the quality of my potatoes suffers if I don't use lots of compost - both physical quality and health - without compost at planting, the skins are rough, flesh not as creamy and potato scab and marbling (misshapen potatoes, some with large round bumps - apparently caused by nematodes) are becoming more common. On top of that, I don't cut the potatoes - use whole, small seed potatoes at each planting. And there may be other things that would help. (In your post on peroxide.) A leading statement - so the question, such as what? I am doing everything by hand in soil which has a well aerated A horizon (20 - 30 cm) and soft plinthite for the B horizon (good water holding for the deeper rooted crops). I plan to use alot more Effective Micro-organisms (EM) (Kyusei Nature Farming) through irrigation, than in the past, which will improve the aeration of the soil. Also, I assume that a peroxide bath will have a similar effect when planting onion sets? You mention than you use peroxide and BD 500 on the potatoes. I assume the sequence is the peroxide bath is first, then allow the spuds to dry, then the BD 500 bath. Other way round, the peroxide would kill the microbes in the BD 500 - not so? I have started bathing my seed potatoes in EM with the current planting, and wish to combine this with the peroxide treatment with my next planting (later this week). Thanks for your posts on the subject. By the way, what is a spading machine? Stephen Barrow
RE: Corn == Soil Improvement Crop
Stephen, I believe I can affect a 5 mile radius up to about a 250 mile radius depending on various factors. Treatments ameliorate drought and flood. Just consider that there is more moisture in the atmosphere than ever before in modern history because with global warming there's more evaporation from the oceans. It has to fall somewhere, so if there is a drought in Somalia there also ends up being floods in Tanzania. If there is a drought in the Ganges watershed this may result in floods in the Yangtze. Cloud seeding is notoriously risky as it is done with little or no appreciation for the organizational forces at work in the atmosphere. Planting trees and greening the environment is well known for causing more precipitation, just as laying pavement and erecting buildings is widely acknowledged for driving rain away. Check it out. Think how hard it would be for a cloud drifting in over the Sahara to cool down and drop rain. Clouds evaporate and disappear under those conditions and the moisture migrates toward rain forests where it can cool off and condense. Best, Hugh Hugh, Lloyd and Gil - let's hear about your rainmaking magic. First questions, what size geographical area do your methods affect, how do you ensure that it will rain where and when you want it to do so, what are the long term impacts on the weather, and how can you be sure that there is no negative environmental impact? The authorities in the Lowveld area of South Africa entered into a large project of cloud seeding from small jets in the late 1970's and early 80's, with very little beneficial effect. One of their biggest problems was not being able to manipulate the clouds so that it rained where they wanted it. There have also been long term negative environmental affects, which together with heavy atmospheric pollution from coal fired power stations, has had a detrimental impact on the weather patterns. The role of the cloud seeding in these changes is obviously difficult to quantify, but is always mentioned as a factor. There was a time when farmers used to fire silver nitrate rockets into the clouds, but also with the effect of causing precipitation on neighbours' properties and not their own. Haven't heard of that for many years. On the other hand, I have visited a farmer in the dry, rocky Karoo, an arid / desert area in South Africa, who was convinced that the planting of 5 Ha of olive trees, wind breaks and a small dam have had a positive impact on the rainfall patterns and volumes in a short three year period, using Bill Mollison's arguments! I may be foolish, but I was sceptical of that one. So, it will be very interesting to hear about your methods and the results thereof. It appears that you work with different energies (and not silver nitrate), so it is reasonable to anticipate different results. Stephen Barrow
Re: Frank Moody
liz davis wrote: Snip Wayne it is not only greed, but understanding where the link with the land died, and that seems to stem (with no surprises) from Christianity, and Judaism. This thinking also ran parallel with classical thinking of Rome and Greece. In the thinking that we are superior, the earth is here for humans, that which we have domain over. Snip If you also include Islam and draw a map showing they spread of these three religions over time, you will find a close correlation with desertification I note they are all strongly patriarchal and wonder if the rise of interest in matriarchal beliefs that seems to happening, will have some helpful effect on the land? Gil
Re: Planting Spuds - what is a spader?
Stephen : A spading machine is a PTO -driven implement designed to approximate the effect of proven smaller-scale hand double-digging for the purpose of deeper aeration, and effective integration of organic matter. These are built as walk-behind driven machines or to attach behind the tractor. It is like a horizontal, above-ground external crankshaft , 3 -12 ft. wide, with spades on the connecting rods (where pistons would be on an internal combustion engine) plunging rotationally, sequentially, downwards into the soil. It is claimed that their action subtly aerates/fractures the subsoil twice the depth of the stroke of the spades. This action does not homogenise the soil strata/microlife as a churning roto tiller would do. Nor does it create the hardpan condition which a ro-tiller tends to do with its uniform chafing,smearing, glazing action. Their use usually results in fewer passes over the field for questionably comparable results with conventional equipment. In some models, there is a beater bar driven at the rear which gives a finer seedbed than most chunkier results without it. But, the speed/rpm is variable for a suitable seedbed if the tractor is so equipped. An alternative is to run a tiller over afterwards, set very shallow, to make the appropriate seed bed. Most are made in Europe. Falc, Imants, others. manfred - Original Message - From: Stephen Barrow [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 10:25 AM Subject: RE: Planting Spuds - How do you do it? By the way, what is a spading machine? Stephen Barrow
Re: Corn == Soil Improvement Crop
- Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel Dear Gil, et. al., I don't mind sharing all the latest. What Hugh Courtney found out was if we applied these remedies in a morning and evening sequence during a drought they tended to bring in rain. Another way of looking at it is they cleared up atmospheric stagnation, restoring organization to the atmosphere so that moisture clumped up in clouds and rain occurred. What my field broadcasting taught me was we didn't have to apply these remedies singly in tedious sequencing. We could combine them into an atmospheric complex and a soil complex and use these complexes in a morning and evening rhythm. This ended up working the best of all methods and could be applied to an area drawn on a map and treated with a radionic instrument such as a Hieronymus analyser or a Malcolm Rae extended range potentizer with interrupter. I can take my reagents out of the wells of my broadcaster and copy them on a water vial (labeled) with my Hieronymus analyser by putting the vial on the plate and the reagents in the well with the dials set on zero-zero. Then I can use the vial in the well of my Malcolm Rae along with a map of my farm's boundaries and treat in the early morning with horn silica, summer horn clay, horsetail, dandelion, valerian and nettle remedies. then again in the late afternoon I will do another treatment with horn manure, winter horn clay, yarrow, chamomile, oak bark and nettle remedies. I can repeat this procedure for as many days as I wish. And I can shine color slides in the well on the map and use lemon to break up atmospheric congestion, red to expand and blue to contract, indigo for shock and green to restore the atmosphere's equivalent of its immune system etc. Plus I can add remedies for planets, constellations, stars, etc. The Rae instrument can be varied in its blinking on and off. Each blink is a microscopic change at a point that can effect large scale changes in the medium. A couple hundred per minute makes a very effective treatment. Best, Hugh Dear Hugh Thanks for this post I have a couple of further questions 1. I have been up til now using my field broadcaster pipes (four of them) to put out the sequential treatments. I also have a good potentiser instrument but not with the interruptor. and recently aquired a Mattioda analyser. given access to these three instruments which would you use for best effect to treat for rain?? 2.. I have so far followed the Hugh Courtney line and only worked the sequence in leaf periods on the BD calendar. His writings indicated a drying effect from treatments in fruit period ( fire signs) Is this overcome by your more broad spectrum of preps ?? Do we still need to take account of planetary influences or is your system counteracting those as part of the treatment? (you mention remedies for planets constellations etc ) We are over 300 miles inland and our frontal systems travel across the whole continent landmass to get to us - I believe the planetary influences to be quite strong here and observation of plant growth patterns supports that - but my knowledge is very sparse on this. 3. Where is the downside? What detrimental results will appear if we do this wrong?? Thanks again Lloyd Charles
Re: Rain
- Original Message - From: Stephen Barrow Hugh, Lloyd and Gil - let's hear about your rainmaking magic. First questions, what size geographical area do your methods affect, how do you ensure that it will rain where and when you want it to do so, what are the long term impacts on the weather, and how can you be sure that there is no negative environmental impact? Whoa there Stephen Lets keep our sense of balance here ! First . Anything I have done in this department is 5 year old (at least) Hugh Lovel technology so I would really like Hugh to give us the latest on how and what to do and his explanation of what is happening in the atmosphere. I will give some of my reasoning as to why I strongly believe this is a do able thing and also some personal thoughts on the ethics of it (thats a poor phrase for what I meant but bear with me) Why I think it works? This will be longish but I'll get there Some background -- We have lived on this farm for 25 years and I think I am more observant than the average person (I still like to go in the bush and track animals to see if I can do it, as a habit I read the tyre tracks in the yard every time I come home to see who visited) Dumb stuff to some but I like to try and figure out whats going on. Our farm is in central / southern NSW about 350 miles inland (west) from sydney, the rainfall is winter dominant 19 inches but we do get a reasonable amount of storm rain scattered over summer - tho not enough to grow viable summer crops and the late summer early autumn is pretty unreliable. we are always looking for good rains to start our cropping season. This has been a mixed farming area - legume pasture rotated with cropping cereal grains - and the practice has been to burn the cereal stubbles for recropping - added to that there is a large flood irrigated area to the west of us where the rotation goes rice - matches -wheat - matches - rice - matches - you get the idea? these boys make a lot of smoke!! Now for many years I have watched the following scenario through February - March and into April. 1. Its been dry and now theres a nice promising weather front approaching from the west , the forecasters think its ok , the farmers hope it will rain and as the change moves across the inland this is looking real good for rain 2 . every second lunatic about the place with a box of matches goes out and burns off stubble - grass patches - along chanel banks - the works! ( the logic here is these guys are convinced its gonna rain so they better do their burn off so they can get a good clean burn = black paddock which then means an easy job of cultivation and a hassle free seeding operation) -all this smoke discharges in front of our approaching weather front and guess what? the clouds disperse - the promising change and hopes of rain - dissipates - and no rain 3 . most years this pattern of events will be repeated several times until all of the burning is completed. (there are exceptions of course and sometimes it does rain) 4. we wait for three or four weeks or more for the atmosphere to clear and finally in late April or early May (if we are lucky) we get our seasonal break rains and everything kicks into gear 1 to 4 above would have been the pattern here for a hundred years and so is regarded as normal and the rainfall records beyond that time are not good enough to help either way I may have exaggerated but this is my observation over many years and I am CONVINCED, and have been for years that the above is having a definite affect on our rainfall in that period ( say late February to May) We get these moisture laden fronts coming in, good cloud formations , with an associated low pressure band, all thats needed is a trigger and we go and do the opposite thing So when Hugh Lovel pops up with some so called crazy ideas about how we can clear this gunk out of the atmosphere and reverse the situation I am all ears!! This makes a lot of sense to me and the question is not can we do it but how to! If our stupidity, greed and ignorance can force things one way, why not use our intellect and good intent to move in the other direction?? First questions, what size geographical area do your methods affect, A. when it works here I am guessing about 5 to10 miles wide by 15 to 25 long in the direction of the movement of weather pattern how do you ensure that it will rain where and when you want it to do so, A. This is a hard chemistry type of statement that I am not comfortable with. We really are only trying to clear the way to allow Mother Nature to do what she was trying to do in the first place. That weather front was MEANT to bring rain to the area that it moved over and we have obstructed it by pumping crap out into the atmosphere. Hugh Lovels conditions are different but I think the same rules operate everywhere, he has a high rainfall / high humidity situation so if he treated into an active frontal system would
Re: Frank Moody
Gil, we receive about 12 to 13 inches on average here, though less than 10 last year. Our soils can be very alkaline as you can imagine. The nearby high forest can have over 30 inches, mostly in the form of snow and much of the soil there is acidic. Here at lower elevations (6000 to 7000 feet) most of precipitation comes in the form of late summer thunder storms which brew almost daily over the mountains. Most of our snow is so dry that it brings little real moisture at this elevation, but does an important job of feeding the high watershed (8000 to 12000 feet) from which we eventually get our irrigation water. Thanks Tom, I think New Mexico may be like our conditions. We get twenty inches - 500 mm, between April/ May and October. The rain just stops in our spring and our grain g crops die not ripen. I was in England in their Autumn and could not get over the headers on the paddock with green flag on the grain. They are using dryers and we are wishing for rain to finish the crop. The actual rainfall is not that much different, but the evaporation is, we have six to nine feet of evaporation. Our soils are mainly highly alkaline, but mine are slightly acid. I think the largest area of Pinus radiata forests is in South Australia. All our housing here is built from it. It grows much better here than at home.
Re: Corn == Soil Improvement Crop
Lloyd writess: Dear Hugh Thanks for this post I have a couple of further questions 1. I have been up til now using my field broadcaster pipes (four of them) to put out the sequential treatments. I also have a good potentiser instrument but not with the interruptor. and recently aquired a Mattioda analyser. given access to these three instruments which would you use for best effect to treat for rain?? 2.. I have so far followed the Hugh Courtney line and only worked the sequence in leaf periods on the BD calendar. His writings indicated a drying effect from treatments in fruit period ( fire signs) Is this overcome by your more broad spectrum of preps ?? Do we still need to take account of planetary influences or is your system counteracting those as part of the treatment? (you mention remedies for planets constellations etc ) We are over 300 miles inland and our frontal systems travel across the whole continent landmass to get to us - I believe the planetary influences to be quite strong here and observation of plant growth patterns supports that - but my knowledge is very sparse on this. 3. Where is the downside? What detrimental results will appear if we do this wrong?? Thanks again Lloyd Charles Dear Lloyd, You'll have to experiment and see which are best. On the Mattioda instrument you can scan for rates to treat on along with using the BD remedies as reagents. Since normal rain occurs most easily when conditions are healthy and balanced you don't want to do sequential treatments since these emphasize one remedy at a time instead of the whole complex appropriate to the soil or the atmosphere. We used to think sequential was so good because it was far closer toward achieving balance than using 500 by itself and coming back months later with 501. That was really unbalanced. If you were cutting hay and it looked like it might get rained on, try taking the reagents out of the bottom wells of the broadcasters. This will create an imbalance and usually stops rain from occurring. But if you don't want a drought be sure to put the reagents back in as soon as you get your hay up so as to restore the balance. The most likely time to get it to rain with treatments is to treat in water constellations just prior to or on Full Moon. If there's too much rain and you want to dry things up try fire constellations near New Moon. Well-aspected Moons, particularly conjunctions with other planets, undoubtedly can influence what kind of rain you get. Jupiter aspects would bring full, abundant rain, while Mars might be more stormy, etc. I think Peter Bacchus could tell us some things here. As for detrimental effects? The BD remedies can be pretty safe, considering they are basically organizational. Cloudbusting and cloud seeding are no doubt more dangerous. Still, throwing things out of balance can be a real problem unless you want drought instead of rain. Best, Hugh
