Re: Buying-selling BD products / Associative trade
Greetings Juan and all, One thing that is an alternative to the the typical commerce transactions is "Community Supported Agriculture" - CSA's. Here the producer sells shares (ideally to cover the financial needs for the whole year) then each shareholder gets his share's portion of the ongoing harvest. You may request more information from the CSA toll free hotline of the biodynamic association of America Chef Jem - .--- El Manantial <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi, > > As there is biodynamic agriculture as an alternative > way of relating to > nature and producing, is there also in terms of > trade an alternative way of > commerce, like associative commerce or something > like this?... > Anybody could offer some advice? > > Thanks! Juan Escobar > El Manantial > P. O. Box 17-07-9300 > Quito, Ecuador > [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
FW: Selling the Kill
Title: FW: Selling the Kill Next stride? L*L Markess -- Yo Folks, If you haven't read the news on the latest DNR wrinkle, hear is the link to their multi-level marketing scheme to sell Deer Slaughter to our neighbors and town government: http://www.madison.com/captimes/news/local/28095.php I hope I have time before vacation to put something on this up on the web site. Those DNR imaginations continue to amaze. This is super material for a send up! Ross Ross Reinhold 3487 Bohn Road Mt. Horeb, WI 53572 608-437-5069 Internet Marketing & Business Development www.PersonalityPathways.com/Marketing
Re: Fwd: Re: Root Aphids
Mycorrhizae are not honeydew. Mycorrhizae are fungi that grow in the rhizosphere and form a symbiotic relationship with plants. Honeydew is a sugar excretion by aphids that serves as a food source to ants (and also atttracts lacewings and ladybirds who are predators of aphids). That's why ants are known to look after aphids. Regards, Christiane [EMAIL PROTECTED] on 27/06/2002 00:33:56 Please respond to [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] cc:(bcc: Christiane Jaeger/NRE) Subject: Fwd: Re: Root Aphids >Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 05:32:35 -0700 (PDT) >From: Michael Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: Root Aphids >To: Allan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Allan, > >Please Fwd: > >I remember reading an article years ago, which I >followed up with naked-eye observations in the field. >The article stated that aphids were feeding on >something called "honey dew"; a black sweet dew that >forms on plants. This is easily observable developing >on field peas during humid periods; a good reason to >use 508 on the plants. > >Anyway, if mycorrhyzae is the technical term for honey >dew, I would say Hugh is right on the money. What I >would watch out for is its' appearance above the soil >line; it limits the health of the plant. > >Michael >>Ant and aphids on roots is just about always a good >>sign. Ants cultivate the mycorrhyzae so there is a >>surplus for the aphids. >> >>Best, >>Hugh > >things, indicated poor soil structure. It seems so >degenerate, aphids on the roots (I don't recall seeing >ants, myself). > >(Moving right along) Are you saying that the aphids >are only feeding on exudates and not on the plant >itself? > >-Allan> > > > >__ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup >http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
RE: Dinshah colours
Hugh, We do a lot of dowsing in our work to narrow down all kinds of approaches we use. We've looked at the "official" Dinshah guide some, but mostly we just do it intuitively; that is, change the colour aimed at the extraction process until it responds on the subtle levels. Frequently, the right colour changes at different time of the process, and probably in response to external conditions as well. What I was wondering about your work was if you use the Dinshah light directly on any plants, to boost growth, combat disease, etc. It seems like that would be an interesting study, whether you were growing food or medicine plants, since they all operate by the same natural principles. Strength & Wisdom, Micah Al-Qemi- Alchemical & Spagyric products for healing body, spirit & soul. Visit us on the web at: www.al-qemi.com
Re: Dinshah colours
Hugh, Your recent post about rain & the various techniques & instruments you use to help it form was interesting, & I am wondering if you use the Dinshah work for other ends in your farming? I have an old Dinshah projector which I direct to the alchemical herbal extracts we make, and I have often felt that some plants might benefit from its coloured light as well, seeing as plants eat light. Any ideas? Strength & Wisdom, Micah Al-Qemi- Alchemical & Spagyric products for healing body, spirit & soul. Visit us on the web at: www.al-qemi.com Dear Micah, I don't doubt certain herbs benefit from certain colors. But I don't know much about which, each. Do you dowse? Often this is a good way to get quick information about what to do for each circumstance. Best, Hugh Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
RE: Nettle tea for insect repellent
Has anybody tried the "bright yellow or blue plastic basin filled with water" routine for Japanese beetles? If yours are like ours, the commit Hari Kiri (spelling!) by dive-bombing into the water! Tompkins and Bird in Secrets of the Soil provide the plausible explanation that the wavelengths emitted by the yellow or blue attract the insects. Whatever - it works well. Only problem, it seems to attract my dogs who think that they are wonderful drinking bowls! Best wishes Stephen Barrow -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Allan Balliett Sent: 24 June 2002 04:31 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Nettle tea for insect repellant >I'm having problems not only with flea beetles but japanese beetles. Robert - Mine arrived today. Yesterday, a couple. Today, droves. I should have put up lures, but, of course, Japanese beetles caused me no problems last year..nor did potato beetles
Re: Fwd: Re: Root Aphids
>>Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 05:32:35 -0700 (PDT) >>From: Michael Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>Subject: Re: Root Aphids >>To: Allan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> >>Allan, >> >>Please Fwd: >> >>I remember reading an article years ago, which I >>followed up with naked-eye observations in the field. >>The article stated that aphids were feeding on >>something called "honey dew"; a black sweet dew that >>forms on plants. This is easily observable developing >>on field peas during humid periods; a good reason to >>use 508 on the plants. Yes! This is a must time to use l508 >> >>Anyway, if mycorrhyzae is the technical term for honey >>dew, I would say Hugh is right on the money. Ah, but mycorrhyzae is not a technical term for honey dew. Mycor (fungus) rhyzae (root) is a technical term for a class of fungi that colonize the fine feeder roots of plants, taking over the job of root hairs on the hairy roots. Where root hairs extent out into the soil an almost imperceptible fraction of an inch (really only visible under a microscope) mycorrhyzae are easily seen as a fuzz on the hairy roots. These symbiotic fungi do live off the sugary sap (honey dew if you please) in the plant but they are NOT the honey dew itself. They can increase the nutrient uptake of the plant, as I previously stated, by a factor of ten or more since their hyphae (another technical term for the vessicles or strings of cells) can extend out into the soil as much as a quarter inch or more from the roots they colonize. I've heard of a half an inch. Cultivation disturbs these. Water logging from heavy rains also ruins these hyphae. They have to have plenty of oxygen. Fungus in general needs air. You never get any fungus on cheese, for example, unless air gets to it. So these symbiotic fungi need air. They seem to also need such trace elements as copper and boron, as they do not seem to get going well in soils deficient in these two elements, and perhaps others. Their further symbiotes, azotobacters, need manganese, cobalt and molybdenum to say nothing of plenty of calcium if they are to fix nitrogen in symbiosis with the mycorrhyzae. That's another story. Enough for now. Mycorrhyzae are not honey dew, they eat honey dew. Best, Hugh What I >>would watch out for is its' appearance above the soil >>line; it limits the health of the plant. >> >>Michael >>>Ant and aphids on roots is just about always a good >>>sign. Ants cultivate the mycorrhyzae so there is a >>>surplus for the aphids. >>> >>>Best, >>>Hugh >> >>>things, indicated poor soil structure. It seems so >>degenerate, aphids on the roots (I don't recall seeing >>ants, myself). >> >>(Moving right along) Are you saying that the aphids >>are only feeding on exudates and not on the plant >>itself? >> >>-Allan> >> >> >> >>__ >>Do You Yahoo!? >>Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup >>http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Buying-selling BD products / Associative trade
Hi, As there is biodynamic agriculture as an alternative way of relating to nature and producing, is there also in terms of trade an alternative way of commerce, like associative commerce or something like this? I mean, in selling to distributors of BD products, is there a way of associative purchaisng-selling, or only the usual buying-selling to best prices as in the traditional way of making business? Anybody could offer some advice? Thanks! Juan Escobar El Manantial P. O. Box 17-07-9300 Quito, Ecuador [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
BD Calla Lilies
Hi, I am growing biodynamic calla lilies in Ecuador. Have some 20.000 plants and will be producing regularly towards the end of the year. DEMETER certification will come in the future. I wonder whether someone could help me in the process of setting up the price structure for BD callas exporting. Since commercial organic flower production and marketing is something quite new, there is not much experience in this area, and no "historical" prices to look at. Anybody knows how to go along? How much can one sell BD Callas in the US market for? Thanks! Juan Escobar El Manantial P. O. Box 17-07-9300 Quito, Ecuador [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
Dinshah colours
Hugh, Your recent post about rain & the various techniques & instruments you use to help it form was interesting, & I am wondering if you use the Dinshah work for other ends in your farming? I have an old Dinshah projector which I direct to the alchemical herbal extracts we make, and I have often felt that some plants might benefit from its coloured light as well, seeing as plants eat light. Any ideas? Strength & Wisdom, Micah Al-Qemi- Alchemical & Spagyric products for healing body, spirit & soul. Visit us on the web at: www.al-qemi.com
Re: Refractometer
Dear Daniel, Boron deficiencies may be related to lack of VAM, as boron deficiencies may CAUSE a lack of VAM, or a lack of VAM may exacerbate boron deficiencies. Best, Hugh Thanks Hugh, I'm also begging to explore mycroryzia fungi. Does anyone have expierence with inoculating fields and maintaining viable communities of VAM in fields. If so what are your expierences. I heard somewhere that boron defiency may actually be lack of VAM. Has anyone else heard this? Thanks, Daniel - Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 7:54 PM Subject: Re: Refractometer Hi All, I'm new to the concept of measuring brix with a refractometer. I was wondering how valuable a tool people considered it and how accurately it measures produce quality. Thanks, Daniel Dear D, I have a refractometer and I use it from time to time. But what am I?--from the old school? When I took chemistry my freshman Chem major's prof pointed out, as his opening statement in the course, that we carry around with us the two best methods of chemical analysis that have ever been developed, Taste and Smell. Time and again it proves true. The refractometer measures (roughly) the percent of dissolved solids. Well, a plant is either salty and watery and thus weak, or it is chock full of sugars and dissolved solids. Naturally we want to eat the latter, while (interestingly) insects prey on the former. Since sugars, both simple and complex, are ordinarily such a high percentage of plant sap, brix commonly is taken to mean sugar content. It ain't. But that's close. One of the troubles is that complexity of plant sap is NOT measured by brix. So you've measured your percent dissolved solids by the refractometer and it's high? Great! But how complex is it? The tongue is a better indicator of complexity. If you get that strong, harsh, sap that puckers the tongue and rasps the throat, you can bet your can-tush that it is complex, and the insect pests aren't going to have anything to do with that plant. It has immunity by virtue of its complexity, which is a measure of its organization, and organization is the basis of life--so you've measured its vitality. Like I say, I use my refractometer. It's a good instrument. People don't argue with it, where they might argue with my taste. But it's grammar school stuff. ( I wish they taught it in grammar school!) But, if I might venture an opinion from the old school, learn to use your senses, particularly taste and smell. Human senses are just a jigger in the great spectrum of vibrations, but they are--in aces and trumps--what is most important to human life. Back in the BDnow archives is another post I wrote about the refractometer. It was about high brix in the morning indicating boron deficiency. You might look it up. Good luck with your refractometer. It is probably accurate, very useful, and can be lots of fun. It can help enormously to educate your taste and smell, which you should learn to use above all else. Best, Hugh Lovel Visit our website at: www.unionag.org Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Fwd: Re: Root Aphids
>Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 05:32:35 -0700 (PDT) >From: Michael Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: Root Aphids >To: Allan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Allan, > >Please Fwd: > >I remember reading an article years ago, which I >followed up with naked-eye observations in the field. >The article stated that aphids were feeding on >something called "honey dew"; a black sweet dew that >forms on plants. This is easily observable developing >on field peas during humid periods; a good reason to >use 508 on the plants. > >Anyway, if mycorrhyzae is the technical term for honey >dew, I would say Hugh is right on the money. What I >would watch out for is its' appearance above the soil >line; it limits the health of the plant. > >Michael >>Ant and aphids on roots is just about always a good >>sign. Ants cultivate the mycorrhyzae so there is a >>surplus for the aphids. >> >>Best, >>Hugh > >things, indicated poor soil structure. It seems so >degenerate, aphids on the roots (I don't recall seeing >ants, myself). > >(Moving right along) Are you saying that the aphids >are only feeding on exudates and not on the plant >itself? > >-Allan> > > > >__ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup >http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
Re: malcollm rae cards
Dear Michael, These are magneto-geometric cards. Their ink is slightly magnetic and inside the instrument there is a doughnut shaped magnet attached to the circuit that reads the card. As I understand it the cards are made by a dowsing process that goes around a 360 degree wheel seven times, determining appropriate marking points. I haven't seen it done. Essie asked if the cards could be used in other radionic instruments. No doubt they can, even though the Malcolm Rae instrument is the only one I know of designed with a magnetic reader. But the pattern of the card is still unique and some connection with the original material that produced that pattern will be picked up by other instruments. I'd say it was a more tenuous connection, but some operators get by with that. Also the Malcolm Rae equipment is made with a variable resistor that can be dialed from 0 to 999. The relationship between these resistances and homeopathic potencies has been determined and by setting the dial one can make most useful potencies whether they are x, c, m or mm potencies. This feature also is lost when the cards are used in other instruments. The Rae cards are wonderful for making homeopathic remedies that are standard and reliable, though this does not involve use of the interrupter. For treatment of a person or place the interrupter is very helpful. Best, Hugh Dear Hugh, What are Malcolm Rae cards? How are they made? M. Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Insect peppers
Dear Essie, A quantity the size of a garden pea is approximately a gram. Ziplocs will ship to England better. Best, Hugh Of course, Hugh. I'd be happy to send you samples. Would vials be better than zip-locks? Just let me know. It'll be the weekend before I can get to it. Also, each of my vials is about 1/3 full of pepper. How much is that in grams, would you say? Essie At 08:12 AM 06/25/02 -0400, you wrote: Dear Essie, Would it be possible to get a sample of each of your peppers? A gram or two in a tiny ziploc bag would do. And can you determine what species(s) of slug you have? I take it there are several. I would like to send them off to England and have Malcolm Rae cards made. That way we can make up potencies as appropriate to each location. I gather you are using the straight pepper in your broadcaster without potentization. I guess we'll see how that works, but I have a feeling potencies are safer and will work better. Also, it is my belief that you do NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some of the original carbon framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of course, you want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture. As for fungus on strawberries, the old one--two punch involves tieing up the nitrates in the soil with an evening time drench of oak bark (505) and then spraying the foliage with the equisetum the next morning. The oak bark holds back the nitrates from the lime side so the plant is less salty and watery, while the horsetail draws in warmth from the silica side and hardens the plant. Best, Hugh At 09:40 PM 6/24/02 -0400, Allan wrote: Essie - would you mind including a little more 'how to' info on your pepper making? What's your track record like? -Allan Allan - Here's the procedure, as I've done it. Collect as many specimens as you feel necessary. I collected a good 100 slugs, most adolescent, a couple of adults. All in one pass through the potatoes. Probably 50 potato beetles (dead), and maybe 70 potato beetle larvae (from lilies). The count is not exact. First I cooked the slugs. Put them in a small glass saucepan with cover (turned on the stove fan), and cooked them slowly until they were blackened. Then I crunched them up and cooked them some more until they were mostly (not entirely, however - I didn't have quite enough patience) white ash. Then cooled them a bit and put the ash into a small glass vial and put vial into bottom well of field broadcaster (slugs crawl rather than fly - hence bottom well). I followed the same process with the adult potato beetles, but put that vial into the upper well (since they fly). I followed the same process with the larvae, putting that vial into the bottom well. The larvae were shredding my Casa Blanca lilies (no others), and the shredded leaves were covered with what clearly was excrement, with larvae in the middle of the excrement. They definitely eat where they shit. And vice versa. Now, I've previously only peppered with slugs. Five years ago, I did it once and had (truly) an 80 percent reduction in two weeks. The next year I did it again and had an 80-85 percent reduction. Until this year, I was virtually slug-free since then. But this year the potatoes were innundated, with both slugs and adult potato beetles. The lilies were shredded by potato beetle larvae, and I've never had that problem before, ever. My area is low and wet, easily prone to slugs. Also, I used a great deal of leaf mulch this year as well - which apparently served as a "Y'all come" to the slug legions. Now, I made all peppers yesterday. Tonight, on patrol, I found two slugs, one beetle larva, and 11 adult beetles (10 of them copulating, two by two. The odd duck was doing something that could've been self-stimulating, but it was dark, the flashlight was weak, and I felt that the least I could do was to respect his/her privacy before squashing him/her. We've had a drastic change in weather since yesterday - from days of rain and drizzle to high pressure with some strong breezes and sun. The weather change definitely could influence the change in population. Stay tuned. I'll report on population levels every few days. Now, I also do have flea beetles and no stinging nettle to make a tea. They are too small to catch and pepper, or, believe me, I'd do that. Just to tack on a marginally related question - would application of equisetum tea be a good preventative for fungus on strawberries? Putting plants into tub with bubblers for a couple of days and then diluting a bit (how much?)? Best, Essie "CIA stands for Capitalism's Invisible Army" Buckminster Fuller Visit our website at: www.unionag.org Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Nettle tea for insect repellant
>>Also, has anyone tried kaolin on flea beetles? This finely powdered clay >>can be sprayed onto the foliage and it seems to foil a lwide variety of >>insects. It's non-toxic and can be incorporated into compost tea foliar >>sprays. Anyone try it? > >Hugh, in the form of kaolin spray that was perfected at the USDA >station in Kearneysville and 'premiered' at the Mid-Atlantic >Conference a few years back, it is said that it will stop flea beetle >damage to eggplant, which says a lot. The last time I talked to those >folks, annual crops were not an approved use for the commercial >product (Surround?), but I believe I saw ads in ACRES recently that >might indicate otherwise. (Besides, who among us still eats eggplant >leaves?) > >-Allan Dear Allan, Thanks. I was there and I thought I heard this more or less out of the corner of my ear. On Mark Fulford's tomatoes the end of last August in Maine he was using kaolin in his compost tea and I saw no flea beetle damage on even the lowest leaves (which were still in great shape!). But I didn't know whether he might otherwise have had flea beetles. As we move further and further into an age of government regulation it should be clear that any new thing introduced into the growing system has to go through a lengthy approval process for each different kind of use. Doesn't matter how harmless it is. The Kearneysville researchers were using kaolin on fruit trees so they only went through this complicated process with fruit trees/bushes. I know of growers who use a tablespoon of sodium bicarbonate in their foliars to conteract the effects of acid rain. Works fine, is non-toxic, cheap, etc. I don't think it has ever been approved. Who would pay to walk it through the approval process? As a kid back when nearly all rural roads were gravel in South Louisiana I used to notice the blackberries near the road where the dust settled were always robust and immaculate, their foliage lasting in fine fettle until frost. But unless a heavy rain had just occurred you had to wash the berries--a small price to pay. Would clay dust vaporized by auto and truck traffic be an approved input? Of course not, but any damn fool kid could see where to pick the best berries. Of course, we didn't think much about how much lead might be in the berries by the roadside. That was definitely not an approved input either. But was it any better to pick on the canal banks where chemical toxins might (probably) have been greater? Remember, this was Louiaiana, the most polluted state in the nation. KInd of goes to show the inainity of these approval and certification processes. They tend to create a false sense of security along with paperwork and wheel spinning, both of which raise the CO2 levels. Oh well, Hugh Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Root Aphids
Dear Daniel, et. al., Yes, at first it seems counter-intuitive that the plants with aphids sucking on their juices at the roots would be the healthiest, most robust specimens. When we tap sugar maples I don't think that makes them more robust. But the secret here lies in the ants. Ants are more practical soil microbiologists than people. Maybe they know more too. They commonly culture 30 or 40 different species of microbes in their ant colonies, and they can do a marvelous job of aerating plant roots (including in soils where structure is a problem) and planting the appropriate species of mycorrhyzae there. With the appropriate mycorrhyzae a plant may have its nutrient uptake of such things as phosphorus, potassium, calcium, etc. improved by a factor of ten. Plus the plant is no longer dependent on nutrient solubility. This means the mycorrhyzael hyphae can suck up nutrients in more complex forms. For example they will uptake nitrogen compounds as amino acids rather than urea, nitrates or other crude salts. This so vastly improves the chemistry of the plant--since it hasn't nearly so much nitrogen salt burden--that photosynthesis is markedly improved, as are many other plant functions. Ants herd aphids and milk them for latex which they use in many of their cultures and preparations. Since the plants would never do so well without the ants, the percentage of surplus sap the aphids drain away from a plant is a small price to pay. Check it out. I first noticed this with lettuce and with beans. In tilling up a lettuce patch after harvest I found all the hugest roots shared three factors in common--great mycorrhyzae, aphids and ants. In fact they had a fourth characteristic. You could smell the delecate, cleaner-than-lemon smell of the formic acid left behind by the ants. In pulling up bush beans in large quantities and sitting in the shade picking off the beans I would come on plants with twice or even more of the number of perfect beans. Always these plants had great mycorrhyzae, aphids, ants, and that wonderful formic acid smell. It bears investigating what Steiner had to say about ants and formic acid. Best, Hugh >>Dear Daniel, >> >>Ant and aphids on roots is just about always a good sign. Ants >>cultivate the mycorrhyzae so there is a surplus for the aphids. >> >>Best, >>Hugh > >Hugh - I thought ants on the roots, among other things, indicated >poor soil structure. It seems so degenerate, aphids on the roots (I >don't recall seeing ants, myself). > >(Moving right along) Are you saying that the aphids are only feeding >on exudates and not on the plant itself? > >-Allan Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Making Rain
Dear Gil, No doubt the interrupter is a great boost to treatment. For making potencies it is not used, but when treating it makes a huge difference to have several hundred treatments a minute instead of one treatment over an hour or more. Considering the principle involved--a microscopic change at a point can effect large scale changes in the medium--it sure helps to have thousands of microscopic changes instead of just one. Best, Hugh Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Insect peppers
Dear Gil, It is hard to burn completely to ash. In some of your successful efforts you may have had a little charcoal left, eh? But I commonly enough burn an intent with my peppers too. How can it hurt? Best, Hugh >Hi! Hugh, >I am very interested in your comment:- "Also, it is my belief that you do >NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some of the original carbon >framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of course, you >want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture." Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Insect peppers
Of course, Hugh. I'd be happy to send you samples. Would vials be better than zip-locks? Just let me know. It'll be the weekend before I can get to it. Also, each of my vials is about 1/3 full of pepper. How much is that in grams, would you say? Essie At 08:12 AM 06/25/02 -0400, you wrote: Dear Essie, Would it be possible to get a sample of each of your peppers? A gram or two in a tiny ziploc bag would do. And can you determine what species(s) of slug you have? I take it there are several. I would like to send them off to England and have Malcolm Rae cards made. That way we can make up potencies as appropriate to each location. I gather you are using the straight pepper in your broadcaster without potentization. I guess we'll see how that works, but I have a feeling potencies are safer and will work better. Also, it is my belief that you do NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some of the original carbon framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of course, you want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture. As for fungus on strawberries, the old one--two punch involves tieing up the nitrates in the soil with an evening time drench of oak bark (505) and then spraying the foliage with the equisetum the next morning. The oak bark holds back the nitrates from the lime side so the plant is less salty and watery, while the horsetail draws in warmth from the silica side and hardens the plant. Best, Hugh At 09:40 PM 6/24/02 -0400, Allan wrote: Essie - would you mind including a little more 'how to' info on your pepper making? What's your track record like? -Allan Allan - Here's the procedure, as I've done it. Collect as many specimens as you feel necessary. I collected a good 100 slugs, most adolescent, a couple of adults. All in one pass through the potatoes. Probably 50 potato beetles (dead), and maybe 70 potato beetle larvae (from lilies). The count is not exact. First I cooked the slugs. Put them in a small glass saucepan with cover (turned on the stove fan), and cooked them slowly until they were blackened. Then I crunched them up and cooked them some more until they were mostly (not entirely, however - I didn't have quite enough patience) white ash. Then cooled them a bit and put the ash into a small glass vial and put vial into bottom well of field broadcaster (slugs crawl rather than fly - hence bottom well). I followed the same process with the adult potato beetles, but put that vial into the upper well (since they fly). I followed the same process with the larvae, putting that vial into the bottom well. The larvae were shredding my Casa Blanca lilies (no others), and the shredded leaves were covered with what clearly was excrement, with larvae in the middle of the excrement. They definitely eat where they shit. And vice versa. Now, I've previously only peppered with slugs. Five years ago, I did it once and had (truly) an 80 percent reduction in two weeks. The next year I did it again and had an 80-85 percent reduction. Until this year, I was virtually slug-free since then. But this year the potatoes were innundated, with both slugs and adult potato beetles. The lilies were shredded by potato beetle larvae, and I've never had that problem before, ever. My area is low and wet, easily prone to slugs. Also, I used a great deal of leaf mulch this year as well - which apparently served as a "Y'all come" to the slug legions. Now, I made all peppers yesterday. Tonight, on patrol, I found two slugs, one beetle larva, and 11 adult beetles (10 of them copulating, two by two. The odd duck was doing something that could've been self-stimulating, but it was dark, the flashlight was weak, and I felt that the least I could do was to respect his/her privacy before squashing him/her. We've had a drastic change in weather since yesterday - from days of rain and drizzle to high pressure with some strong breezes and sun. The weather change definitely could influence the change in population. Stay tuned. I'll report on population levels every few days. Now, I also do have flea beetles and no stinging nettle to make a tea. They are too small to catch and pepper, or, believe me, I'd do that. Just to tack on a marginally related question - would application of equisetum tea be a good preventative for fungus on strawberries? Putting plants into tub with bubblers for a couple of days and then diluting a bit (how much?)? Best, Essie "CIA stands for Capitalism's Invisible Army" Buckminster Fuller Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Insect peppers
Dear Gil, What potency did you use on your Brown Snails, and in what signs did you burn it. Also could you look through your records and give me a date that you burnt it. Regards James. - Original Message - From: "Gil Robertson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 10:35 AM Subject: Re: Insect peppers > Hi! Hugh, > I am very interested in your comment:- "Also, it is my belief that you do NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some of the original carbon framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of course, you want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture." > > I am working in a remote area with no one to drop by and help, so in things like making peppers, I am only able to learn that which I can from books and the likes of this list. > > I have had mixed results with peppers. Some are straight Steiner, some are traditional Homoeopathic potencies, some are potenised with a Rae, Pot to Pot instrument and in some cases I have made Rae Cards. My results has been mixed. Some have worked spectacularly, some not at all, while one for Brown Snail actually attracts them and they will eat anything I spray with it. I have been doing the full cremation and there is definitely no carbon present. SO that may be my mistake!! > > My most successful effort was against the Australian Plague Locust. I had a single specimen in Brandy and a couple of photos in a Fact sheet. I made the Rae card with the intent of having the Locust not eat and suffer the consequence. A great contrast to the brown Snail effort. > > Gil > > Hugh Lovel wrote: > > > Dear Essie, > > > > Would it be possible to get a sample of each of your peppers? A gram or two in a tiny ziploc bag would do. And can you determine what species(s) of slug you have? I take it there are several. I would like to send them off to England and have Malcolm Rae cards made. That way we can make up potencies as appropriate to each location. I gather you are using the straight pepper in your broadcaster without potentization. I guess we'll see how that works, but I have a feeling potencies are safer and will work better. > > > > Also, it is my belief that you do NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some of the original carbon framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of course, you want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture. > > > > As for fungus on strawberries, the old one--two punch involves tieing up the nitrates in the soil with an evening time drench of oak bark (505) and then spraying the foliage with the equisetum the next morning. The oak bark holds back the nitrates from the lime side so the plant is less salty and watery, while the horsetail draws in warmth from the silica side and hardens the plant. > > > > Best, > > Hugh > >
Re: Insect peppers
Dear Hugh and others, We have found after much experimenting that the decomposition method at this stage seems to be the most effective. The decomposition method overcomes the old chestnut of what is the best time to burn. You will find that slugs and snails are the easiest to do. Insect peppers are the easiest to prepare, while the vertebrates are full of contradictions even if burned during Venus in Scorpio. Maybe someone who understands can explain to me the possible effects of Mercury in retrograde. We have had some funny experiences using peppers of vertebrates during Mercury in retrograde. Our long term trials with ashing of serrated tussock has shown that the seed loses it's viability if the peppers are sprayed out on the tussock just before the seed starts to form, and then followed up with another two sprays in close proximity to each other. The use of peppers, without having an elementary skill in dowsing is a recipe for hit or miss use of radionics. The potency used for distribution of a pepper can vary from day to day. Hence the need to dowse the most effective potency. Sincere regards James. From: Hugh Lovel To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 10:12 PM Subject: Re: Insect peppers Dear Essie,Would it be possible to get a sample of each of your peppers? A gram or two in a tiny ziploc bag would do. And can you determine what species(s) of slug you have? I take it there are several. I would like to send them off to England and have Malcolm Rae cards made. That way we can make up potencies as appropriate to each location. I gather you are using the straight pepper in your broadcaster without potentization. I guess we'll see how that works, but I have a feeling potencies are safer and will work better.Also, it is my belief that you do NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some of the original carbon framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of course, you want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture.As for fungus on strawberries, the old one--two punch involves tieing up the nitrates in the soil with an evening time drench of oak bark (505) and then spraying the foliage with the equisetum the next morning. The oak bark holds back the nitrates from the lime side so the plant is less salty and watery, while the horsetail draws in warmth from the silica side and hardens the plant.Best,Hugh At 09:40 PM 6/24/02 -0400, Allan wrote: Essie - would you mind including a little more 'how to' info on your pepper making?What's your track record like?-AllanAllan -Here's the procedure, as I've done it.Collect as many specimens as you feel necessary. I collected a good 100 slugs, most adolescent, a couple of adults. All in one pass through the potatoes. Probably 50 potato beetles (dead), and maybe 70 potato beetle larvae (from lilies). The count is not exact. First I cooked the slugs. Put them in a small glass saucepan with cover (turned on the stove fan), and cooked them slowly until they were blackened. Then I crunched them up and cooked them some more until they were mostly (not entirely, however - I didn't have quite enough patience) white ash. Then cooled them a bit and put the ash into a small glass vial and put vial into bottom well of field broadcaster (slugs crawl rather than fly - hence bottom well).I followed the same process with the adult potato beetles, but put that vial into the upper well (since they fly).I followed the same process with the larvae, putting that vial into the bottom well. The larvae were shredding my Casa Blanca lilies (no others), and the shredded leaves were covered with what clearly was excrement, with larvae in the middle of the excrement. They definitely eat where they shit. And vice versa.Now, I've previously only peppered with slugs. Five years ago, I did it once and had (truly) an 80 percent reduction in two weeks. The next year I did it again and had an 80-85 percent reduction. Until this year, I was virtually slug-free since then. But this year the potatoes were innundated, with both slugs and adult potato beetles. The lilies were shredded by potato beetle larvae, and I've never had that problem before, ever. My area is low and wet, easily prone to slugs. Also, I used a great deal of leaf mulch this year as well - which apparently served as a "Y'all come" to the slug legions.Now, I made all peppers yesterday. Tonight, on patrol, I found two slugs, one beetle larva, and 11 adult beetles (10 of them copulating, two by two. The odd duck was doing something that could've been self-stimulating, but it was dark, the flashlight was weak, and I felt that the least I could do was to respect his/her privacy before squashing him/her. We've had a drastic change i
re root aphids
Phylloxera is a root aphid that can kill grapevines. There are other root feeding aphids on herbaceous plants that are harmful to the plant, because they suck the sap out of the roots. There are a few websites on aphids; here are two examples. http://ctr.uvm.edu/ctr/el/el60.htm; http://entowww.tamu.edu/extension/bulletins/uc/uc-031.html Regards, Christiane
