Re: [beagleboard] Re: USB and ethernet ports are not working - D14 led not powered

[MHE 何海宇]

Hi,
 I experience exact same issue on the 3.14.20 linux kernel, u-boot detect 
ethernet port, load the omap3-beagle-xm.dtb after linux kernel loaded, the led 
is off, nothing never happens again nor usb, nor ethernet, seems the part is 
incompatible with the kernel.. what matters is the fb device not working too.. 
I suspect these things linked to same root cause.

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Re: [beagleboard] Beaglebone Black does not flash from Micro SD, only 2 LEDs remain lit (D0,D1)

[Jerry Vargas]

Yeah, a charger 5V, 2A

2017-11-17 17:31 GMT-05:00 evilwulfie :

> and you have a GOOD power supply ?
>
> On 11/17/2017 1:55 PM, Jerry Vargas wrote:
>
> I'm a newbie in this kind of stuff, recently i got the bbb, so i'm trying
> to flash the debian image into the bbb (Debian 9.2 2017-10-10 4GB SD IoT
> )
> (I had already installed this image a month ago successfully, but i
> formatted the sdcard, also i lost that one , I am working on a new micro
> sdcard) following the next steps:
> "
>
>1. You should perform this process with *only* a single 5V 2A power
>supply plugged into the DC jack. Alternatively, you can use a USB adapter
>for power. *Disconnect the Ethernet cable and remove any shields and
>USB peripherals*.
>2. Power off your BBB by physically disconnecting the USB/power cable.
>3. Plug the micro-SD card into the BBB’s micro-SD card slot.
>4. Hold the Boot Button (S2) on the top right (near the SD card slot)
>and, *while holding this button*, insert the USB/power lead to connect
>the power. *Keep holding the button until the LEDs start to flash.* The
>blue on-board LEDs should light in sequence and then continue to flash for
>the next 5–25 minutes (depending on the distribution used and the speed of
>the SD card). The latest distribution flashes in a Cylon/Knightrider
>pattern.
>5. Wait until the LEDs stop blinking and all 4 LEDs are fully lit as
>in Figure 2 (the latest image then powers the board down). This process can
>take 5-25 minutes depending on the image used. If the flashing procedure
>fails—for example, no LEDs flash, or it keeps running for more than 45
>minutes —then disconnect the power and try restarting the BBB with the S2
>button pressed.
>
> "
> But while i'm holding S2, the LEDs lit in this secuense "S0,S1,S2", after
> that only S0 and S1 stay lit ( i did this 7 times, and one time i waited
> like 10 hours to boot)
>  The sdcard is a kingston 8gb class 10 (like the first one that  worked)
>
>
>
> El contenido de este mensaje y sus anexos son únicamente para el uso del
> destinatario y pueden contener información  clasificada o reservada. Si
> usted no es el destinatario intencional, absténgase de cualquier uso,
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Re: [beagleboard] Beaglebone Black does not flash from Micro SD, only 2 LEDs remain lit (D0,D1)

[evilwulfie]

and you have a GOOD power supply ?

On 11/17/2017 1:55 PM, Jerry Vargas wrote:
> I'm a newbie in this kind of stuff, recently i got the bbb, so i'm
> trying to flash the debian image into the bbb
> (Debian 9.2 2017-10-10 4GB SD IoT 
> )
> (I had already installed this image a month ago successfully, but i
> formatted the sdcard, also i lost that one , I am working on a new
> micro sdcard) following the next steps:
> "
>
>  1. You should perform this process with *only* a single 5V 2A power
> supply plugged into the DC jack. Alternatively, you can use a USB
> adapter for power. *Disconnect the Ethernet cable and remove any
> shields and USB peripherals*.
>  2. Power off your BBB by physically disconnecting the USB/power cable.
>  3. Plug the micro-SD card into the BBB’s micro-SD card slot.
>  4. Hold the Boot Button (S2) on the top right (near the SD card slot)
> and, *while holding this button*, insert the USB/power lead to
> connect the power. /Keep holding the button until the LEDs start
> to flash./ The blue on-board LEDs should light in sequence and
> then continue to flash for the next 5–25 minutes (depending on the
> distribution used and the speed of the SD card). The latest
> distribution flashes in a Cylon/Knightrider pattern.
>  5. Wait until the LEDs stop blinking and all 4 LEDs are fully lit as
> in Figure 2 (the latest image then powers the board down). This
> process can take 5-25 minutes depending on the image used. If the
> flashing procedure fails—for example, no LEDs flash, or it keeps
> running for more than 45 minutes —then disconnect the power and
> try restarting the BBB with the S2 button pressed.
>
> "
> But while i'm holding S2, the LEDs lit in this secuense "S0,S1,S2",
> after that only S0 and S1 stay lit ( i did this 7 times, and one time
> i waited like 10 hours to boot)
>  The sdcard is a kingston 8gb class 10 (like the first one that  worked)
>
>
>
> El contenido de este mensaje y sus anexos son únicamente para el uso
> del destinatario y pueden contener información  clasificada o
> reservada. Si usted no es el destinatario intencional, absténgase de
> cualquier uso, difusión, distribución o copia de esta comunicación. --
> For more options, visit http://beagleboard.org/discuss
> ---
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Re: [beagleboard] Beaglebone Black does not flash from Micro SD, only 2 LEDs remain lit (D0,D1)

[Robert Nelson]

On Fri, Nov 17, 2017 at 2:55 PM, Jerry Vargas  wrote:
> I'm a newbie in this kind of stuff, recently i got the bbb, so i'm trying to
> flash the debian image into the bbb (Debian 9.2 2017-10-10 4GB SD IoT ) (I
> had already installed this image a month ago successfully, but i formatted
> the sdcard, also i lost that one , I am working on a new micro sdcard)
> following the next steps:
> "
>
> You should perform this process with only a single 5V 2A power supply
> plugged into the DC jack. Alternatively, you can use a USB adapter for
> power. Disconnect the Ethernet cable and remove any shields and USB
> peripherals.
> Power off your BBB by physically disconnecting the USB/power cable.
> Plug the micro-SD card into the BBB’s micro-SD card slot.
> Hold the Boot Button (S2) on the top right (near the SD card slot) and,
> while holding this button, insert the USB/power lead to connect the power.
> Keep holding the button until the LEDs start to flash. The blue on-board
> LEDs should light in sequence and then continue to flash for the next 5–25
> minutes (depending on the distribution used and the speed of the SD card).
> The latest distribution flashes in a Cylon/Knightrider pattern.
> Wait until the LEDs stop blinking and all 4 LEDs are fully lit as in Figure
> 2 (the latest image then powers the board down). This process can take 5-25
> minutes depending on the image used. If the flashing procedure fails—for
> example, no LEDs flash, or it keeps running for more than 45 minutes —then
> disconnect the power and try restarting the BBB with the S2 button pressed.
>
> "
> But while i'm holding S2, the LEDs lit in this secuense "S0,S1,S2", after
> that only S0 and S1 stay lit ( i did this 7 times, and one time i waited
> like 10 hours to boot)
>  The sdcard is a kingston 8gb class 10 (like the first one that  worked)

That's because the image you installed to the microSD isn't setup by
default to flash the eMMC, you need to make one change to it..

https://elinux.org/Beagleboard:BeagleBoneBlack_Debian#Flashing_eMMC

Regards,

-- 
Robert Nelson
https://rcn-ee.com/

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[beagleboard] Re: PocketBeagle USB1 Question

[will]

Graham --

I figured that's probably what USB1_EN is for. Most of the USB power 
switches have an enable pin (the 4- or 5-legged ICs), but a couple of them 
don't (the 3-legged ICs). Thanks again for the advice!

-- Will


On Friday, November 17, 2017 at 12:18:27 PM UTC-7, Graham wrote:
>
> If your USB power switch requires an On/Off enable control input, that is 
> what pin P1-03 is for.
> --- Graham
>
>
>
> On Friday, November 17, 2017 at 12:11:59 PM UTC-6, wi...@geomonkey.com 
> wrote:
>>
>> Graham --
>>
>> Thanks for the advice! That totally makes sense. I now intend to try this 
>> configuration to get the added USB1 working in host mode (e.g., to control 
>> a Sony camera using the gphoto2 library):
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> These USB power switch ICs (e.g., Diodes Incorporated AP2822AKATR-G1, 
>> Richtek RT9711CGB, 
>> Richtek RT9742JNGV) limit current, prevent reverse current, etc., and 
>> cost less than a dollar. I'll report back about whether this ends up 
>> working okay.
>>
>> -- Will
>>  
>>
>> On Thursday, November 16, 2017 at 5:10:48 PM UTC-7, Graham wrote:
>>>
>>> Your first connection does not work, because you are trying to power the 
>>> USB1 from the USB_VIN, but since the is no power going into USB_VIN on 
>>> USB-0, there is no power to come out USB-1.
>>> This only works when the board is powered from USB-0
>>> The schematic does not tell you, but USB_VIN, USB0_VIN and USB1_VIN are 
>>> all connected together.
>>>
>>> VIN is a totally separate power supply input
>>>
>>> Since you are powering the board from VIN (P1-01) you need to hook the 
>>> 5V line on your Micro-USB board to P1-01 and P1-05.
>>>
>>> In this case, it will work, although you have no current limit 
>>> protection from a short on the 5V line in a downstream USB device, which is 
>>> required by the USB spec.
>>> So, only plug in USB devices and cables you trust.
>>>
>>> I would not power the USB-5V-VBUS from the SYS-VOUT, because SYS-VOUT is 
>>> limited to 0.2 A or so, and many USB devices draw more current than this 
>>> (USB-2 devices are allowed to draw up to 0.9 A)
>>>
>>> --- Graham
>>>
>>> ==
>>>
>>> On Thursday, November 16, 2017 at 5:11:52 PM UTC-6, wi...@geomonkey.com 
>>> wrote:

 I, too, am wondering about the best way to provide power to the board 
 and to a device connected to USB1 as host. Here is how I learned to hook 
 up 
 a micro-b breakout to USB1 and also how I intend to provide power to the 
 board. The problem is that there is no measured voltage at USB1:


 

 I was wondering if I could just power the USB1 device from P1_24 SYS 
 VOUT (which does have power when board is supplied by P1_01 SYS VIN) like 
 this:


 
 Would it be harmful to do it this way? Are there better ways to 
 accomplish this? Thanks!

 -- Will Bain


 On Sunday, November 5, 2017 at 6:59:39 PM UTC-7, Graham wrote:
>
> Further research, looking at the Eagle board and schematic files for 
> the PB, it appears that USB0.VIN and USB1.VIN are both directly connected 
> to VIN.USB
> Which explains why I had no power on my USB1 host port when connected 
> like the Fritzing diagram, since I am powering from VIN currently.
>
> So the question becomes,,,
> What is the best way to power USB1 VBUS as a host if I don't know in 
> advance whether the customer application will run from VIN or VIN.USB?
>
> --- Graham
>
> ==
>
> On Sunday, November 5, 2017 at 6:58:06 PM UTC-6, Graham wrote:
>>
>> I note that there is a PocketBeagle pin P1-7 named USB1-VIN.
>>
>> I don't find any connection on the PB schematic, other than to P1-7.
>>
>> It was connected externally in all of the USB1 host discussions and 
>> Fritzing diagrams.
>>
>> The name would imply that it is a way to deliver power to the board 
>> when USB1 has an external 5 Volt power source.
>>
>> I guess the basic question is whether this needs to be used/connected 
>> when USB1 is functioning as a host.
>>
>> --- Graham
>>
>> ==
>>
>

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[beagleboard] Beaglebone Black does not flash from Micro SD, only 2 LEDs remain lit (D0,D1)

[Jerry Vargas]

I'm a newbie in this kind of stuff, recently i got the bbb, so i'm trying 
to flash the debian image into the bbb (Debian 9.2 2017-10-10 4GB SD IoT  
)
 
(I had already installed this image a month ago successfully, but i 
formatted the sdcard, also i lost that one , I am working on a new micro 
sdcard) following the next steps:
"

   1. You should perform this process with *only* a single 5V 2A power 
   supply plugged into the DC jack. Alternatively, you can use a USB adapter 
   for power. *Disconnect the Ethernet cable and remove any shields and USB 
   peripherals*.
   2. Power off your BBB by physically disconnecting the USB/power cable.
   3. Plug the micro-SD card into the BBB’s micro-SD card slot.
   4. Hold the Boot Button (S2) on the top right (near the SD card slot) 
   and, *while holding this button*, insert the USB/power lead to connect 
   the power. *Keep holding the button until the LEDs start to flash.* The 
   blue on-board LEDs should light in sequence and then continue to flash for 
   the next 5–25 minutes (depending on the distribution used and the speed of 
   the SD card). The latest distribution flashes in a Cylon/Knightrider 
   pattern.
   5. Wait until the LEDs stop blinking and all 4 LEDs are fully lit as in 
   Figure 2 (the latest image then powers the board down). This process can 
   take 5-25 minutes depending on the image used. If the flashing procedure 
   fails—for example, no LEDs flash, or it keeps running for more than 45 
   minutes —then disconnect the power and try restarting the BBB with the S2 
   button pressed.

"
But while i'm holding S2, the LEDs lit in this secuense "S0,S1,S2", after 
that only S0 and S1 stay lit ( i did this 7 times, and one time i waited 
like 10 hours to boot)
 The sdcard is a kingston 8gb class 10 (like the first one that  worked)



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[beagleboard] Re: PocketBeagle USB1 Question

[Graham]

If your USB power switch requires an On/Off enable control input, that is 
what pin P1-03 is for.
--- Graham



On Friday, November 17, 2017 at 12:11:59 PM UTC-6, wi...@geomonkey.com 
wrote:
>
> Graham --
>
> Thanks for the advice! That totally makes sense. I now intend to try this 
> configuration to get the added USB1 working in host mode (e.g., to control 
> a Sony camera using the gphoto2 library):
>
>
> 
>
> These USB power switch ICs (e.g., Diodes Incorporated AP2822AKATR-G1, Richtek 
> RT9711CGB, 
> Richtek RT9742JNGV) limit current, prevent reverse current, etc., and 
> cost less than a dollar. I'll report back about whether this ends up 
> working okay.
>
> -- Will
>  
>
> On Thursday, November 16, 2017 at 5:10:48 PM UTC-7, Graham wrote:
>>
>> Your first connection does not work, because you are trying to power the 
>> USB1 from the USB_VIN, but since the is no power going into USB_VIN on 
>> USB-0, there is no power to come out USB-1.
>> This only works when the board is powered from USB-0
>> The schematic does not tell you, but USB_VIN, USB0_VIN and USB1_VIN are 
>> all connected together.
>>
>> VIN is a totally separate power supply input
>>
>> Since you are powering the board from VIN (P1-01) you need to hook the 5V 
>> line on your Micro-USB board to P1-01 and P1-05.
>>
>> In this case, it will work, although you have no current limit protection 
>> from a short on the 5V line in a downstream USB device, which is required 
>> by the USB spec.
>> So, only plug in USB devices and cables you trust.
>>
>> I would not power the USB-5V-VBUS from the SYS-VOUT, because SYS-VOUT is 
>> limited to 0.2 A or so, and many USB devices draw more current than this 
>> (USB-2 devices are allowed to draw up to 0.9 A)
>>
>> --- Graham
>>
>> ==
>>
>> On Thursday, November 16, 2017 at 5:11:52 PM UTC-6, wi...@geomonkey.com 
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I, too, am wondering about the best way to provide power to the board 
>>> and to a device connected to USB1 as host. Here is how I learned to hook up 
>>> a micro-b breakout to USB1 and also how I intend to provide power to the 
>>> board. The problem is that there is no measured voltage at USB1:
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> I was wondering if I could just power the USB1 device from P1_24 SYS 
>>> VOUT (which does have power when board is supplied by P1_01 SYS VIN) like 
>>> this:
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>> Would it be harmful to do it this way? Are there better ways to 
>>> accomplish this? Thanks!
>>>
>>> -- Will Bain
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 5, 2017 at 6:59:39 PM UTC-7, Graham wrote:

 Further research, looking at the Eagle board and schematic files for 
 the PB, it appears that USB0.VIN and USB1.VIN are both directly connected 
 to VIN.USB
 Which explains why I had no power on my USB1 host port when connected 
 like the Fritzing diagram, since I am powering from VIN currently.

 So the question becomes,,,
 What is the best way to power USB1 VBUS as a host if I don't know in 
 advance whether the customer application will run from VIN or VIN.USB?

 --- Graham

 ==

 On Sunday, November 5, 2017 at 6:58:06 PM UTC-6, Graham wrote:
>
> I note that there is a PocketBeagle pin P1-7 named USB1-VIN.
>
> I don't find any connection on the PB schematic, other than to P1-7.
>
> It was connected externally in all of the USB1 host discussions and 
> Fritzing diagrams.
>
> The name would imply that it is a way to deliver power to the board 
> when USB1 has an external 5 Volt power source.
>
> I guess the basic question is whether this needs to be used/connected 
> when USB1 is functioning as a host.
>
> --- Graham
>
> ==
>


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[beagleboard] Re: PocketBeagle USB1 Question

[will]

Graham --

Thanks for the advice! That totally makes sense. I now intend to try this 
configuration to get the added USB1 working in host mode (e.g., to control 
a Sony camera using the gphoto2 library):



These USB power switch ICs (e.g., Diodes Incorporated AP2822AKATR-G1, Richtek 
RT9711CGB, 
Richtek RT9742JNGV) limit current, prevent reverse current, etc., and cost 
less than a dollar. I'll report back about whether this ends up working 
okay.

-- Will
 

On Thursday, November 16, 2017 at 5:10:48 PM UTC-7, Graham wrote:
>
> Your first connection does not work, because you are trying to power the 
> USB1 from the USB_VIN, but since the is no power going into USB_VIN on 
> USB-0, there is no power to come out USB-1.
> This only works when the board is powered from USB-0
> The schematic does not tell you, but USB_VIN, USB0_VIN and USB1_VIN are 
> all connected together.
>
> VIN is a totally separate power supply input
>
> Since you are powering the board from VIN (P1-01) you need to hook the 5V 
> line on your Micro-USB board to P1-01 and P1-05.
>
> In this case, it will work, although you have no current limit protection 
> from a short on the 5V line in a downstream USB device, which is required 
> by the USB spec.
> So, only plug in USB devices and cables you trust.
>
> I would not power the USB-5V-VBUS from the SYS-VOUT, because SYS-VOUT is 
> limited to 0.2 A or so, and many USB devices draw more current than this 
> (USB-2 devices are allowed to draw up to 0.9 A)
>
> --- Graham
>
> ==
>
> On Thursday, November 16, 2017 at 5:11:52 PM UTC-6, wi...@geomonkey.com 
> wrote:
>>
>> I, too, am wondering about the best way to provide power to the board and 
>> to a device connected to USB1 as host. Here is how I learned to hook up a 
>> micro-b breakout to USB1 and also how I intend to provide power to the 
>> board. The problem is that there is no measured voltage at USB1:
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> I was wondering if I could just power the USB1 device from P1_24 SYS VOUT 
>> (which does have power when board is supplied by P1_01 SYS VIN) like this:
>>
>>
>> 
>> Would it be harmful to do it this way? Are there better ways to 
>> accomplish this? Thanks!
>>
>> -- Will Bain
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, November 5, 2017 at 6:59:39 PM UTC-7, Graham wrote:
>>>
>>> Further research, looking at the Eagle board and schematic files for the 
>>> PB, it appears that USB0.VIN and USB1.VIN are both directly connected to 
>>> VIN.USB
>>> Which explains why I had no power on my USB1 host port when connected 
>>> like the Fritzing diagram, since I am powering from VIN currently.
>>>
>>> So the question becomes,,,
>>> What is the best way to power USB1 VBUS as a host if I don't know in 
>>> advance whether the customer application will run from VIN or VIN.USB?
>>>
>>> --- Graham
>>>
>>> ==
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 5, 2017 at 6:58:06 PM UTC-6, Graham wrote:

 I note that there is a PocketBeagle pin P1-7 named USB1-VIN.

 I don't find any connection on the PB schematic, other than to P1-7.

 It was connected externally in all of the USB1 host discussions and 
 Fritzing diagrams.

 The name would imply that it is a way to deliver power to the board 
 when USB1 has an external 5 Volt power source.

 I guess the basic question is whether this needs to be used/connected 
 when USB1 is functioning as a host.

 --- Graham

 ==

>>>

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[beagleboard] Re: Possible for Beaglebone Blue to support a non-wireless Ethernet connection?

[Adam Saenz]

You can also get a Robotics Cape for your BBB and it will give you all the 
features of the BBBlue except for the WiFi.  You'll then maintain your 
Ethernet interface.

By the way, the BBBlue uses a PRU for the 4th encoder.  It may be possible 
to use the Robotics Cape software without a Robotics Cape and use the 
appropriate pins on the BBB headers for the 4 channels of encoder (3 
hardware, 1 PRU).  You'll just need to do some level shifting if your 
encoders are higher than 3.3V logic.





On Thursday, November 16, 2017 at 3:11:39 PM UTC-8, n feehan wrote:
>
> Hi, I'm looking at buying the Beaglebone Blue, after prototyping with the 
> Beaglebone Black. I'm making this change because my application needs 
> hardware support for four quadrature encoders and not three.
>
> However, my application streams this encoder data as fast as possible over 
> UDP as an OSC message - when I use a wireless connection anywhere in my OSC 
> path, I see the data rate reduce drastically, to the point where it's not 
> suitable for my application.
>
> My questions are:
> * Does the Beaglebone Green support four quadrature encoder channels?
> * Is there a way to get wired Ethernet (ie, cat5 cable) out of the 
> Beaglebone Blue?
>
> Thanks for any help / info you may be able to provide!
>
> AKA
>

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[beagleboard] Re: Is it possible to make work the BBB C program code without installing any operating systems?

[Graham]

There are TCP/IP Ethernet stacks that are designed to run without on OS.
My personal experience is with the PIC32MX and PIC32MZ, using the Ethernet 
stack included in their 'Harmony' software support package.

There are likely Ethernet stacks for the high end ARM processors that have 
GMII interfaces, but I have not used them.

If you are going to be doing any sophisticated TCP/IP interaction, you may 
want to consider keeping the OS on the Sitara, and do a hardware design 
that isolates the realtime counter portion of the design from the OS timing 
issues.

As TJF suggested, use one or both PRUs for the real time stuff, and keep 
the OS for the things it does well.

Or use some of the counter capability in the Sitara peripherals.

--- Graham

==

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[beagleboard] Re: Is it possible to make work the BBB C program code without installing any operating systems?

[andrew . rzhannikov]

Oh thank you very very dear TJF! it is the new and useful idea for me

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[beagleboard] Re: QNX image for BBB

[acheesehead]

I have installed on several versions of BBB.

On Friday, November 17, 2017 at 2:46:23 AM UTC-7, AVR wrote:
>
> Please can you tell me for what revision BBB your QNX image?
>

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[beagleboard] Re: Is it possible to make work the BBB C program code without installing any operating systems?

[TJF]

Hi!

Am Donnerstag, 16. November 2017 04:40:05 UTC+1 schrieb AVR:
>
> In other words I'd like to make work the BeagleBone Black on the base C 
> program code without any operating systems. 
> My task is simple enough - frequency meter 0...100 KHz, DI/DO simple logic 
> and data exchange accross TCP/IP.
>

You can run a small C programm (up to 2000 ASM instructions) on the PRU, 
loading from init RD very early in the boot sequence. Then use TCP/IP when 
network is ready. When using both PRUSS, up to 4000 instructions are 
possible.

Regards

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Re: [beagleboard] Possible for Beaglebone Blue to support a non-wireless Ethernet connection?

[Przemek Klosowski]

On Thu, Nov 16, 2017 at 1:02 PM, n feehan  wrote:
>
> However, my application streams this encoder data as fast as possible over
> UDP as an OSC message - when I use a wireless connection anywhere in my OSC
> path, I see the data rate reduce drastically, to the point where it's not
> suitable for my application.
>
> My questions are:
> * Does the Beaglebone Green support four quadrature encoder channels?
>
What resolution and speed do you need? I think you are asking about the
available QIP(?) pins but you can do quadrature decoding in software,
perhaps on PRUs, so you have three choices, ordered in decreasing
performance: hardware decoder, PRU-based software decoder, ARM-based GPIO
software decoder.


>
>
* Is there a way to get wired Ethernet (ie, cat5 cable) out of the
> Beaglebone Blue?
>
You can use USB ethernet dongles---will be slower than built-in but
probably less latency and jitter than wireless

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[beagleboard] Re: SDL2 with opengles 2.0 sgx530 on BBB

[stephan]

Hi Pier,

I too would be very interested in trying you port. Please let us know if 
you could push the form to Github.

Thanks

On Wednesday, February 15, 2017 at 6:00:26 PM UTC+2, Pier wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> in the last days I have tried to port the SDL2 2.0.5 to BBB/BBBW using the 
> opengles 2.0 in framebuffer mode,
> seems that works at all.
>
> the code is a little wired at now,  but if anyone is interested update me 
> that I could clean up the code a push a fork/repo for the BBB community on 
> github,
>
> thanks,
> Pier
>
>
>

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[beagleboard] Re: QNX image for BBB

['AVR' via BeagleBoard]

Please can you tell me for what revision BBB your QNX image?

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