RE: [BlindHandyMan] Maybe ergent help request

2006-10-29 Thread Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
I just need to ask if you are sure it is in the vent? I had a mouse 
in the wall in my kitchen and thought it was in the stove vent pipe 
that goes to the roof. It was just lookin' for a home. Had nothing to 
do with the roof. A little snadk of peanot butter on a lovely wooden 
slab solved it.
Betsy
At 03:23 PM 10/28/2006, you wrote:
>Lol. Ok. Sounds cool when I flush. I'll eat and drink a lot and enjoy the
>flush with the added scratching behind my wall untill it is dead and
>hopefully he will just wash away since he had to come down from the rough
>and is only in the vent part anyway and just hope for the best. If things
>start backing up well we'll cross that bridge when it is time and if he does
>it will be war on the things that walk across my rough. I'll sit in the
>rooms and shoot at the noises I hear above me.
>Should make for some added venting and maybe I can put in a sky light if I
>get enough leaks.
>
>Thanks.
>
>-Original Message-
>From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
>Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 7:33 PM
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Maybe ergent help request
>
>In spite of what you may have been told or understand, sewer gas is rarely
>dangerous. Occasionally some twit dumps something nasty including gasoline,
>several years ago a railroad car dribbled gasoline into the storm sewers of
>Timmins near here which eventually produced somewhat spectacular explosions
>and fountains of flames out of the man hole and grills in the streets and
>roads. That notwithstanding, the gas can be unpleasant.
>
>That though isn't a major concern, blocking the drain is probably more
>worrying. You probably do have a bird, I think I would be inclined to try to
>
>flush him on through, there isn't any reasonable way you are likely to
>rescue him anyway unless maybe by removing the toilet and perhaps dragging
>it out with your hand well gloved and assuming your hand will fit. Mine just
>
>barely fits into the standard three inch sewer pipe and I am a small man. He
>
>will bite you if he can so you will want a substantial glove, I doubt your
>elbow will make it around the various bends and so on.
>
>There may be a cleaning eye near where the critter is but how likely is
>that.
>
>If the creature isn't dying of sewer gas, neither will you.
>
>Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Skype DaleLeavens
>Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
>- Original Message -
>From: "Jim Ruby" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: 
>Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 8:06 PM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Maybe ergent help request
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > Today I noticed a bird or something that sounds like he can scratch very
> > well behind my toilet.
> > What is behind there?
> > My plumbing vent on the rough. So he must of fell down there.
> > Now since it is the weekend I can not get no help.
> >
> > What can I do other then not go to the bathroom or run water in there?
> > When I do it starts scratching like mad for a little bit.
> >
> > How likely could he plug that pipe up and cause methane gas or suer gas to
> > enter the rome and maybe cause a health problem?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Maybe I should keep running water or flushing until he scratches himself
> > to
> > death, but can he do damage to the pipe or anything inside there?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> > To listen to the show archives go to link
> > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> > or
> > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
> >
> > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
> >
> > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
> >
> > Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
> > Various List Members At The Following Address:
> > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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> > list just send a blank message to:
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> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.17/505 - Release Date:
> > 27/10/2006
> >
>
>
>
>To listen to the show archives go to link
>  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>or
>ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
>The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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>
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>
>Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
>Various List Members At The Following Address:
>http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>Vis

Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing air from heating system

2006-10-29 Thread Geoff Eden
Good morning, quite a number of years ago I had automatic bleeders installed on 
the heating system in the building I was managing.  They used a kind of felt to 
let air out, which would swell when it was wet and reseal the system when air 
was purged.  You should note that when introducing new water into a system it 
has plenty of gases dissolved in it.  Hence, it takes a while after new water 
is added to purge the gas.  The other problem in hot water heating is pipe 
scale.  You may have to undo a joint or two where there is no heat and blow air 
through to see if there is some blockage.  While this defies logic in a single 
loop, one could speculate safely that if the blockage is toward the end of the 
return, one could get heat on the output side and far less of it beyond the 
blockage point.

Good luck.


- Original Message - 
From: mark 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing air from heating system


it seems to be about a 30 year old system it has 1 zone as i said which 
after the pump
takes a bunch of y's to several differant rooms in the home
i had this also confirmed by someone who is sited just incase i was missing 
the valves in the road map of pipes
the system is a black iron pipe from the stoker to the heating units the 
black pipe goes to the floor then there is a inch and a quarter fitting from 
black pipe to 3 quarter copper for the base board and stays black pipe to 
all radiators
it seems to have had all radiator heat at some time because i had found the 
holes in the hard wood flooring that would have served for radiators seems 
like at some point the system may have frose and bursted the lower level 
radiators then the system of base board was added
radiators are like gold in my area and very costly to replace
when i open all the bleeder valves on the second floor i get a steady stream 
of hot watter had these open for quite a while with several people and many 
5 gallon buckets catching the water in hope of getting some air out not sure 
what else to try need some thoughts  thanks  mark
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing air from heating system


> Do you have the circulating pump running? If so the air should eventually
> end up at the highest point, hard to imagine how it could be avoided.
>
> Does anything come out of the bleeders?
>
> Could there be another valve maybe installed when the copper upgrade was
> made which is either bypassing or otherwise isolating parts of the system?
>
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "mark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 10:41 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing air from heating system
>
>
>> here is the problem
>> it is a single zone system and there is no perging valve as you described
>> there is only a spicket to drain the entire system
>> i have tried opening all the bleeder valves on the cast radiators  and 
>> had
>> several people sitting there with buckets to catch all the water but no
>> luck
>> i always thought the air would rise to the highest point but it seems 
>> like
>> this thought is wrong
>> this is a home i had purchased a few months ago and have been fixing
>> things
>> as i go now the heating season is here and can not figure out this air
>> bound
>> problem
>> can anyone tell me if there is such a thing as a self piercing bleeder
>> valve
>> i can hook up to the copper baseboard to enable me to bleed the air
>> this is only going to be a temp. fix because i am changing the heating
>> system in the next few months and will be adding zones when the change is
>> made
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: "rj" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: 
>> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 6:21 PM
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing air from heating system
>>
>>
>>> Mark,
>>>
>>> What you are describing is a close system. If you look above the pump 
>>> you
>>> will feel the feed  for your water system from the water supply, just
>>> above
>>> that you will feel a 1 1/4 inch shut off valve. Turn it off.  just above
>>> the
>>> turn off valve you will see a faucet connected to the same return line.
>>> I
>>> don't know how many loops you have in your house, I have three. If I 
>>> want
>>> to
>>> bleed one of the three zones, I will block the two I don't want to bleed
>>> and
>>> leave the one open I am bleeding the air out of. In my case it is as
>>> simple
>>> as turning down the two thermostats controlling the two zones I don't
>>> want
>>> to bleed. Once the zones are blocked and the zone you wish to bleed is
>>> open,
>>> turn on the faucet and force the air out of that zone.
>>>
>>> Hope I made myself clear. Any further questions, please

Re: [BlindHandyMan] building up an engine

2006-10-29 Thread Geoff Eden
If you are replacing the cam, you must replace the lifters.  Your existing 
lifters will have mated with your current cam and have irregularities in their 
surface.  If you use them your new cam will wear "you regularly" running the 
risk of breaching the case hardening and destroying the cam.  (Never mind 
filling the engine with metal debris)

Geoff
- Original Message - 
From: Robert J. Moore 
To: Blind Handyman 
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 5:40 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] building up an engine


I have an extra 4.3 v6 which runns fine.
I would like to build it up and put it in my s10
I don't really want to go to extreems.  I am not looking to over size the
cilenders because of the extra cost of having them board out and the cost of
new pistons and rings.
A couple of things I am thinking about are going to a an  Edel brock  intake
and switching to a carborator. Probably a quadrojet because unlike the Holly
once it is set up it is pretty low maintanence.
other thing I am thinking is an over sized cam. What all else needs to be
changed when you put in an over sized cam, if any thing. .

what about headers? Will they give me any thing more than a lighter wallet?
What else have i overlooked?



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keeping track of plug wires

2006-10-29 Thread Geoff Eden
Another way to do this is to use some cheap iron wire to make up a holder for 
your wires in their current positions.  Then you can extract them from the, 
pull your distributor, do your maintenance, drop your distributor back in, 
install your new, and plug the wires in the way they came out.

Geoff
- Original Message - 
From: Robert J. Moore 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 12:34 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Keeping track of plug wires


Ron
That actually is probably the safest way to insure the proper sequence. only
trouble is rethreading the wires can be a bit of a pain. Last time I changed
plug wires I think it took me about 20 minutes. Well thanks all for your
good suggestions. Unless some one has any more really good ideas I will put
this thread to bed.
I am going to chew on this one for a while. When I come up with the perfect
salution I will let you all know.




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keeping track of plug wires

2006-10-29 Thread Geoff Eden
The very best way to do this is to take note of the firing order of your 
engine, for example, the General Motors V-8 18654372.  Take special note of 
where number one is, and you cannot go wrong, as all distributor caps, 
including replacements, will only fit one way.

You want to be very careful to move or bend the wires as little as possible, as 
they do not have an ordinary wire core, and their innards can be fractured 
easily.

Geoff
- Original Message - 
From: Robert J. Moore 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 8:16 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Keeping track of plug wires


those are good ideas I do use braille and I like the dimo tape idea. I think
I can make some tags that I can twist tie on the wires.
Now what do I do for the cap?  I suppose I could cut some boots off an old
set of wires and tie or glue a braille tag on each one.
unless any one has a better idea.
thanks
Robert




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] On sale at Crappy Tire

2006-10-29 Thread Geoff Eden
Dale, I'm sure my wife could hate you for this.  She dreads it when I get my 
hands on the weekly flyer.  Now, you know darn well where I'm going to be 
tomorrow.  I just cannot seem to walk out of that store without something in 
the basket.

Geoff
- Original Message - 
From: Dale Leavens 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 9:09 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] On sale at Crappy Tire


Good evening,

Our Canadian subscribers might be interested in the following items lifted from 
the Canadian Tire flyer.

There are of course a load of other items.

So far as I can tell the rip fence is just a much improved version of the 
little ones which often come with a circular saw except that it will extend up 
to 24 inches and follows the edge of the sheet as you cut along.

Another item I saw this week is a Wolf brand strap clamp. My son bought me one 
a couple of years ago, it is an inch wide fabric strap 13 feet long, don't 
think mine is that long, it has four corner brackets made of plastic which 
slide along the strap allowing you to very securely clamp frames or boxes or 
drawers. They can be slid off to be used as a standard strap clamp. half price 
for ten bucks. I really love mine, works well.



Accu-Rip® Circular Saw Guide
Product #54-1007-2
Make accurate rip cuts in any material you would normally cut with a circular 
saw
Sale: $19.99
Reg :$49.99
Save 60%


Mastercraft Maximum Grab-IT 4-piece Set
Product #54-3838-2
Titanium-tipped Power Driven Extractor
Sale: $19.99
Reg :$29.99
Save 30%




Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] building up an engine

2006-10-29 Thread Trouble
Sense you don't want to go the ring bore way. How about shave the 
heads. You get the same result but cheaper. The cam is good idea. All 
needed there is a reset of the valves. The headers are another good 
shot at increasing the blow back pressure. On that intake see if you 
can get a tall one. The more clean air to fuel mix can also beef up a 
bit. Just remember that when you beef that mileage goes out the 
window to how far you go.

At 05:40 PM 10/28/2006, you wrote:
>I have an extra 4.3 v6 which runns fine.
>I would like to build it up and put it in my s10
>I don't really want to go to extreems.  I am not looking to over size the
>cilenders because of the extra cost of having them board out and the cost of
>new pistons and rings.
>A couple of things I am thinking about are going to a an  Edel brock  intake
>and switching to a carborator. Probably a quadrojet because unlike the Holly
>once it is set up it is pretty low maintanence.
>other thing I am thinking is an over sized cam. What all else needs to be
>changed when you put in an over sized cam, if any thing. .
>
>what about headers? Will they give me any thing more than a lighter wallet?
>What else have i overlooked?
>
>
>
>To listen to the show archives go to link
>  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>or
>ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
>The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
>The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
>http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
>Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions 
> From Various List Members At The Following Address:
>http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>Visit the new archives page at the following address
>http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy 
>Man list just send a blank message to:
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Tim
trouble
Blindeudora list owner.
To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora   




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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House

2006-10-29 Thread Trouble
Most of the time when they did cloth wrapped wire it ran in single 
strand and had the house as ground by way of plumbing pipes on cold water side.
Going threw the walls won't be easy or in some places pretty.
When I did my dads house. I went with the base board. It was easy to 
get at and same to replace if gave problems. Most of them old houses 
have a good 8 to 10 inch base board so lots of work room.
If you don't redo the fuse box. Just make sure you do have a good 
ground. Cold water pipes work, but can also let you know how much when using.
Most house wiring goes with code at 14/3 ground wire, but for safety 
I would go with 12/3 ground. Its cheaper and will hold a load a lot better.

At 02:25 PM 10/28/2006, you wrote:
>My house is a old one, Plaster and clap board.
>I have colth wrap wire, when I move it the insulation breaks.
>I was hoping that I could new wire to old and pull it throw the wall? I
>don't think that will work, because the wire is not in a pipe.
>Need suggestion
>
>
>
>
>To listen to the show archives go to link
>  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>or
>ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
>The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
>The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
>http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
>Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions 
> From Various List Members At The Following Address:
>http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>Visit the new archives page at the following address
>http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy 
>Man list just send a blank message to:
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Tim
trouble
Blindeudora list owner.
To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora   




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blown out valve covers

2006-10-29 Thread Trouble
That black smoke you refer to on a diesel is raw fuel not burned and 
means the person that worked on that engine can't tune worth a crap! 
All the big rigs I have worked on ran at 2100 rpm and the torque was 
given up by there many gear ranges. The most easiest engines I found 
to work on where the Detroit, easy tune and rebuild. As for Cummins 
they where pain in tuning dial indicator.

At 02:13 PM 10/28/2006, you wrote:
>Robert,you wrote
>"offul sounding stink boms you call an engine"  Must times when a diesel is
>running out of time they produce black smoke and stink as you put it.
>The louder sound is caused by the injection of the diesel fuel.  The
>compression is higher in a diesel than a gas engine.  The fuel is injected
>with high pressures.
>I for the most part like your choice of word "superior" HaHaHa.
>You also said "by and large I believe have more torck" yes they do have more
>toque.
>In many diesel applications they run at lower RPMs than a gas engine.
>Over the years I have worked on many gas and diesel engines.  Growing up in
>a family owned small business you work on whatever comes your way.
>Art
>- Original Message -
>From: "Robert J. Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: 
>Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 2:19 AM
>Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Blown out valve covers
>
>
> > Read to the end for my answers
> >
> > Hello Robert and list readers,
> > Robert you did not mention a year for this Chevy v6 that you were working
> > on.
> > I would assume that it is a vehicle with an electronic fuel pump because
>you
> > wrote "forgot to hook up the fuel lines to the throttle body".  The
>turning
> > on of the key would activate the electronic fuel pump and gas could have
> > probably flowed in to the engine.
> > Now other questions are how much gas might have got inside the engine and
> > did it get on to both heads?  What actually sparked the gas to cause the
> > explosions?  I am guessing that the gas did not ignite in the oil pan
>since
> > you did not mention bending of the oil pan.  So the question is what
>ignited
> > the gas under each valve cover in a relatively close time frame to cause
> > consecutive back fires?
> > Could moving valve train engine parts to cause sparks to ignite the gas?
> > What is the probability of that happening consecutively on opposite sides
>of
> > the engine?
> > Does this particular engine have crank case vents on both valve covers?
>If
> > so, could a out of time spark plug sparked at a time when a valve was open
> > while gas vapors were starting to be sucked through the tubes leading from
> > the valve covers?
> > Why play with gas engines?  See we don't have these kind of problems with
> > diesel engines.  I am only trying to kid you.  I guess you can tell that I
> > am partial to diesel engines.
> >
> > It will be interesting to read any other replies that you get on this one.
> >
> > Art
> > This is a 1989  s10  with a 4.3 v6
> > yes it has an electric fuel pump.
> > Most of the gas went on top of the intake manifold and we mopped that up
>the
> > best we could but I am sure some got into the valve train but probably not
> > much.
> > I am guessing that the spark came through an open valve since at that time
> > we were no where close to having it timed. matter of fact we were 180
> > degrees off and we were out of sequence.
> > there are vent wholes on both valve covers.
> > I know that those offul sounding stink boms you call an engine are far
> > superior in regards to longevity and by and large I believe have more
>torck.
> > but I like my little gas engine that could.
> > Now if I could only get my little 4.3 to grow 2 more cilenders I would
>have
> > the 350 that I would rather have. but oh well  its only an s10.
> > Ha Ha
> >
> > If I open a shop up here I would offer jobs to Art
> > Mickey
> > Larry
> > Lewis
> > and ah umm  who did I miss.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To listen to the show archives go to link
> >  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> > or
> > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
> >
> > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
> >
> > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
> >
> > Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
>Various List Members At The Following Address:
> > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
> > Visit the new archives page at the following address
> > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>list just send a blank message to:
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>To listen to the show archives go to link
>  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>or
>ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
>The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturd

Re: [BlindHandyMan] On sale at Crappy Tire

2006-10-29 Thread Dale Leavens
Actually Canadian Tire have a few interesting items on sale this week. I am 
becoming a little disappointed with some of the quality though. I have a 
number of bar clamps I bought on sale about a year ago which I have 
successfully broken by squeezing too hard and as you know, I am not a big 
man. That is an under statement, I am a small man.

I did pick up the Accu-rip saw guide on my way home from the barber shop 
yesterday, probably really good value at $19.95 but at 50 bucks probably a 
little too much.

I had hoped to do a little cutting for the carcass of the router table today 
but it is still snowing and although not a lot below freezing the wind is 
blowing like mad. very difficult on bare fingers and metal tools. I'll have 
to go out and pick up a few things still in the yard, my chipper is out 
there filling up with snow and I haven't put my little water feature to bed 
yet and I have a roller full of water which I hope hasn't frozen through too 
much to drain a substantial amount of the water out of.

I expect we will get a bit of a thaw yet, I don't remember ever having to do 
trick-or-treat in the snow, I do remember sleet coming down and very cold . 
We don't usually get snow that stays before Remembrance day but the plows 
are out this morning so this year might be an exception. Right now there is 
probably 4 inches of snow laying on the ground. So much for global warming 
and the "greenhouse effect".

I went up town yesterday in my cowboy boots, they do have rubber on the 
souls but that was only marginally better than leather, there wasn't a lot 
of snow but wet enough to be really slippery. I will probably wear them down 
to Houston just to be "in the spirit" of the city but I will have to bring 
the winter boots up from the basement today and give them a good coat of 
Dubin for the leather, silicone spray for Janet's suede.

I really like low leather boots with sheepskin lining. Most however have 
zippers up the side which generally fail after a season or two and it is 
getting hard to find a shoe repair to mend them. They are expensive enough 
that I hate to discard them and generally they wear really well. The sheep 
fleece is wonderful stuff compared with synthetic and even when I visit the 
city where it is warm your feet don't get wet with sweat.

The Australians and New Zealanders make pretty good boots and I will 
probably order some Ugg boots, I found a supplier in Quebec just the other 
day. Only thing with them is that they use the hide alone which has a suede 
sort of finish. This is fine in the cold weather but in the spring when 
things get  wet and buddy a little difficult to keep nice and I am not one 
to spend too much time working on things like that. They don't have zippers 
though which is a good thing, one thing less to fail and the price looks 
pretty good, about a hundred bucks. I also like sheepskin mitts, they keep 
your hands really warm and when you push them into a pocket form a good deep 
pocket for a folded cane thus preserving the inside lining of the jacket 
pocket. Some day I am going to have a leather or heavy canvas pocket made up 
specifically for holding folding canes which can be zipped or hooked or 
pinned onto or into jackets and coats. I continuously destroy pockets with 
my canes.

A few years ago I found and bought Janet a purse in England which had a 
pocket under it for keeping an umbrella. Worked wonderfully for sliding a 
cane into instead of the umbrella and more secure too, no risk of something 
falling out of your purse when withdrawing a cane.

Good to see you posting again Geoff, haven't heard from you in a long time.

Sorry, I sort of drifted from the handyman theme.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "Geoff Eden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] On sale at Crappy Tire


Dale, I'm sure my wife could hate you for this.  She dreads it when I get my 
hands on the weekly flyer.  Now, you know darn well where I'm going to be 
tomorrow.  I just cannot seem to walk out of that store without something in 
the basket.

Geoff
- Original Message - 
From: Dale Leavens
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 9:09 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] On sale at Crappy Tire


Good evening,

Our Canadian subscribers might be interested in the following items lifted 
from the Canadian Tire flyer.

There are of course a load of other items.

So far as I can tell the rip fence is just a much improved version of the 
little ones which often come with a circular saw except that it will extend 
up to 24 inches and follows the edge of the sheet as you cut along.

Another item I saw this week is a Wolf brand strap clamp. My son bought me 
one a couple of years ago, it is an inch wide fabric strap 13 feet long, 
don't think mine is t

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House

2006-10-29 Thread R & S Enterprises
Well Dale I am not sure what you mean by a bayonet fetting.  The one that 
comes to my mind is the two screws that clamp a semi flat piece of steel 
against the back and the two screws are only accessible from outside the 
box.  The fitting then fits into a 1/2 inch knock out and is held in with a 
locknut.  Some times you can snake a slim screwdriver along side the box, 
but not if the screws are away from you.  Last resort pry the box away from 
the stud slightly and saw the nails off with a sawsall,metal cutting jigsaw 
or a hand hacksaw blade and remove the box from the wall.  They can be 
reused by drilling holes in the side of the box next to the stud and 
installing a couple of screws.  Code doesn't reqquire stapling to the stud 
when fishing in voids.
And as someone said this is nothing but hot dirty nasty work.  By the way if 
it was done correct originally only one lath was totally cut out the one at 
the and bottom was only notched or at least if it was installed after the 
lath.  Of course if the lath was installed after the wire and box anything 
could have been done.  I guess the notched lath was more for a new box being 
installed in an existing lath and plaster wall.  Lots of ways to do things 
and every box may be different in his house.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:03 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House


>I have done a lot of that here, mostly though I was able to open a wall and
> recover it with drywall. Cutting plaster & lath is hard to do without 
> making
> a mess of it and it destroys saws.
>
> I would like to know though how you pull cable into an existing box. The 
> old
> ones usually have a sort of bayonet fitting with a pinch screw arrangement
> into the box and are inaccessible from inside the box.
>
> Anyway, a lot of it is just damn hard and dirty work and tough on the 
> hands.
>
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House
>
>
>> As one person has mentioned the surface raceway is one solution.  Let's
>> look
>> at traditional methods.   Some things to consider.  Is there insulation 
>> in
>> the exterior walls?  Is the attic accessible?  Is this a one story house?
>> Is there a unfinished basement or workable crawl space?  If there is
>> workable spaces new holes can be drilled and romex ran.  You didn't
>> mention
>> is there were metal switch and outlet boxees or are the devices mounted 
>> to
>> the lath?  Answers to these will allow a better suggestion.
>> Ron
>> I remember doing a lot of these old house rewires back in the seventys in
>> the middle of summer.
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: "Milton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: 
>> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 2:25 PM
>> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House
>>
>>
>>> My house is a old one, Plaster and clap board.
>>> I have colth wrap wire, when I move it the insulation breaks.
>>> I was hoping that I could new wire to old and pull it throw the wall? I
>>> don't think that will work, because the wire is not in a pipe.
>>> Need suggestion
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>>> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>>> or
>>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>>
>>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>>
>>> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
>>> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>>>
>>> Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
>>> Various List Members At The Following Address:
>>> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>>> Visit the new archives page at the following address
>>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>>> list just send a blank message to:
>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>> or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
>> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>>
>> Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
>> Various List Members At The Following Address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>> Visit the new archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keeping track of plug wires

2006-10-29 Thread Mickey Fixsen
You can use labelled spring clothespins, or make tag labels by putting Braille 
on thin aluminum or dymo tape and soft copper wire or twist ties.  These can be 
attached to either end of the wires, themselves.

As for the cap:  All you really need to know is the firing order and the number 
1 plug position.  You can either put a piece of tape on the cap at the number 1 
position, or make a legible scratch mark on it at this position.  You can 
figure out the firing order by checking the wires before you remove them.  
Another way would be to use old wire boots from an old set of wires and wire on 
Brailled tags.  You could also make Braille tags to wire on the caps that use 
male terminals or attach Braille labels to golf tees to insert into female cap 
terminals.

Hope this gives you several option ideas.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 6:45 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Keeping track of plug wires


  What is the best way to mark the plug wires and distributor cap to
  insure they go back together the same way they came apart.
  When I change the cap I just move them one at a time and it is not a problem
  but if I need to remove the distributor that is a different story.

  Messing up the firing order is a night mare to say the least.



   


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House

2006-10-29 Thread Dale Leavens
Ok,

I was hoping you had a better way than I for rewiring these old houses. I 
thought maybe you had a method of getting new wire into old fixtures which 
did not require removing them, I sure haven't figured a way. Even installing 
new stuff into old plaster & lath sucks and is why I haven't yet installed 
the last of my smoke alarms.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 3:05 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House


> Well Dale I am not sure what you mean by a bayonet fetting.  The one that
> comes to my mind is the two screws that clamp a semi flat piece of steel
> against the back and the two screws are only accessible from outside the
> box.  The fitting then fits into a 1/2 inch knock out and is held in with 
> a
> locknut.  Some times you can snake a slim screwdriver along side the box,
> but not if the screws are away from you.  Last resort pry the box away 
> from
> the stud slightly and saw the nails off with a sawsall,metal cutting 
> jigsaw
> or a hand hacksaw blade and remove the box from the wall.  They can be
> reused by drilling holes in the side of the box next to the stud and
> installing a couple of screws.  Code doesn't reqquire stapling to the stud
> when fishing in voids.
> And as someone said this is nothing but hot dirty nasty work.  By the way 
> if
> it was done correct originally only one lath was totally cut out the one 
> at
> the and bottom was only notched or at least if it was installed after the
> lath.  Of course if the lath was installed after the wire and box anything
> could have been done.  I guess the notched lath was more for a new box 
> being
> installed in an existing lath and plaster wall.  Lots of ways to do things
> and every box may be different in his house.
> Ron
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House
>
>
>>I have done a lot of that here, mostly though I was able to open a wall 
>>and
>> recover it with drywall. Cutting plaster & lath is hard to do without
>> making
>> a mess of it and it destroys saws.
>>
>> I would like to know though how you pull cable into an existing box. The
>> old
>> ones usually have a sort of bayonet fitting with a pinch screw 
>> arrangement
>> into the box and are inaccessible from inside the box.
>>
>> Anyway, a lot of it is just damn hard and dirty work and tough on the
>> hands.
>>
>>
>> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Skype DaleLeavens
>> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>>
>>
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: 
>> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:29 PM
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House
>>
>>
>>> As one person has mentioned the surface raceway is one solution.  Let's
>>> look
>>> at traditional methods.   Some things to consider.  Is there insulation
>>> in
>>> the exterior walls?  Is the attic accessible?  Is this a one story 
>>> house?
>>> Is there a unfinished basement or workable crawl space?  If there is
>>> workable spaces new holes can be drilled and romex ran.  You didn't
>>> mention
>>> is there were metal switch and outlet boxees or are the devices mounted
>>> to
>>> the lath?  Answers to these will allow a better suggestion.
>>> Ron
>>> I remember doing a lot of these old house rewires back in the seventys 
>>> in
>>> the middle of summer.
>>> - Original Message - 
>>> From: "Milton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> To: 
>>> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 2:25 PM
>>> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House
>>>
>>>
 My house is a old one, Plaster and clap board.
 I have colth wrap wire, when I move it the insulation breaks.
 I was hoping that I could new wire to old and pull it throw the wall? I
 don't think that will work, because the wire is not in a pipe.
 Need suggestion




 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
 Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 Visit the new archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
 list just send a blank message to:
 [EMAIL PROT

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Maybe ergent help request

2006-10-29 Thread Jim Ruby
I am almost sure it was in the vent because they move around and I only
heard it scratch behind the wall when the toilet flushed or ran the water in
the sink. And it sounded like actually large scratching not like a rat or
mouse unless it was very large. "shivering," at that thought.

 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 2:59 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Maybe ergent help request

I just need to ask if you are sure it is in the vent? I had a mouse 
in the wall in my kitchen and thought it was in the stove vent pipe 
that goes to the roof. It was just lookin' for a home. Had nothing to 
do with the roof. A little snadk of peanot butter on a lovely wooden 
slab solved it.
Betsy
At 03:23 PM 10/28/2006, you wrote:
>Lol. Ok. Sounds cool when I flush. I'll eat and drink a lot and enjoy the
>flush with the added scratching behind my wall untill it is dead and
>hopefully he will just wash away since he had to come down from the rough
>and is only in the vent part anyway and just hope for the best. If things
>start backing up well we'll cross that bridge when it is time and if he
does
>it will be war on the things that walk across my rough. I'll sit in the
>rooms and shoot at the noises I hear above me.
>Should make for some added venting and maybe I can put in a sky light if I
>get enough leaks.
>
>Thanks.
>
>-Original Message-
>From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
>Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 7:33 PM
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Maybe ergent help request
>
>In spite of what you may have been told or understand, sewer gas is rarely
>dangerous. Occasionally some twit dumps something nasty including gasoline,
>several years ago a railroad car dribbled gasoline into the storm sewers of
>Timmins near here which eventually produced somewhat spectacular explosions
>and fountains of flames out of the man hole and grills in the streets and
>roads. That notwithstanding, the gas can be unpleasant.
>
>That though isn't a major concern, blocking the drain is probably more
>worrying. You probably do have a bird, I think I would be inclined to try
to
>
>flush him on through, there isn't any reasonable way you are likely to
>rescue him anyway unless maybe by removing the toilet and perhaps dragging
>it out with your hand well gloved and assuming your hand will fit. Mine
just
>
>barely fits into the standard three inch sewer pipe and I am a small man.
He
>
>will bite you if he can so you will want a substantial glove, I doubt your
>elbow will make it around the various bends and so on.
>
>There may be a cleaning eye near where the critter is but how likely is
>that.
>
>If the creature isn't dying of sewer gas, neither will you.
>
>Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Skype DaleLeavens
>Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
>- Original Message -
>From: "Jim Ruby" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: 
>Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 8:06 PM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Maybe ergent help request
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > Today I noticed a bird or something that sounds like he can scratch very
> > well behind my toilet.
> > What is behind there?
> > My plumbing vent on the rough. So he must of fell down there.
> > Now since it is the weekend I can not get no help.
> >
> > What can I do other then not go to the bathroom or run water in there?
> > When I do it starts scratching like mad for a little bit.
> >
> > How likely could he plug that pipe up and cause methane gas or suer gas
to
> > enter the rome and maybe cause a health problem?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Maybe I should keep running water or flushing until he scratches himself
> > to
> > death, but can he do damage to the pipe or anything inside there?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> > To listen to the show archives go to link
> > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> > or
> > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
> >
> > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
> >
> > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
> >
> > Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
> > Various List Members At The Following Address:
> > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
> > Visit the new archives page at the following address
> > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
> > list just send a blank message to:
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.17/505 - Release Date

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House

2006-10-29 Thread R & S Enterprises
Well if the clamps are on the inside or you can pry out another knockout the 
use of afish tape might work.  Sometimes taking out the box is quicker in 
the longrun.  If one is working in a wall dropping a small chain from above 
and a second person fishing with a single wire hook can produce results. 
Smoke alarms??? In the ceiling I guess.  Mount what is called a ceiling pan 
on the surface.  Did I understand correctly you already had the cable ran? 
A ceiling pan is a round junction box that is only 1/2 inch in depth.  If 
you carefully cut chisel out the plaster you can then mount it  to the lath 
without cutting them.  The box is flush with the finished plaster.  If the 
canopy of the new fixture/smoke alarm is deep enough the ceiling pan is 
totally covered even if mounted on top of the plaster.  They usually come in 
a 3 or 3 1/2 inch diameter.  Seems like maybe even a 4 inch.  Probably 
depends onn the brand.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House


> Ok,
>
> I was hoping you had a better way than I for rewiring these old houses. I
> thought maybe you had a method of getting new wire into old fixtures which
> did not require removing them, I sure haven't figured a way. Even 
> installing
> new stuff into old plaster & lath sucks and is why I haven't yet installed
> the last of my smoke alarms.
>
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 3:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House
>
>
>> Well Dale I am not sure what you mean by a bayonet fetting.  The one that
>> comes to my mind is the two screws that clamp a semi flat piece of steel
>> against the back and the two screws are only accessible from outside the
>> box.  The fitting then fits into a 1/2 inch knock out and is held in with
>> a
>> locknut.  Some times you can snake a slim screwdriver along side the box,
>> but not if the screws are away from you.  Last resort pry the box away
>> from
>> the stud slightly and saw the nails off with a sawsall,metal cutting
>> jigsaw
>> or a hand hacksaw blade and remove the box from the wall.  They can be
>> reused by drilling holes in the side of the box next to the stud and
>> installing a couple of screws.  Code doesn't reqquire stapling to the 
>> stud
>> when fishing in voids.
>> And as someone said this is nothing but hot dirty nasty work.  By the way
>> if
>> it was done correct originally only one lath was totally cut out the one
>> at
>> the and bottom was only notched or at least if it was installed after the
>> lath.  Of course if the lath was installed after the wire and box 
>> anything
>> could have been done.  I guess the notched lath was more for a new box
>> being
>> installed in an existing lath and plaster wall.  Lots of ways to do 
>> things
>> and every box may be different in his house.
>> Ron
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: 
>> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:03 PM
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House
>>
>>
>>>I have done a lot of that here, mostly though I was able to open a wall
>>>and
>>> recover it with drywall. Cutting plaster & lath is hard to do without
>>> making
>>> a mess of it and it destroys saws.
>>>
>>> I would like to know though how you pull cable into an existing box. The
>>> old
>>> ones usually have a sort of bayonet fitting with a pinch screw
>>> arrangement
>>> into the box and are inaccessible from inside the box.
>>>
>>> Anyway, a lot of it is just damn hard and dirty work and tough on the
>>> hands.
>>>
>>>
>>> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> Skype DaleLeavens
>>> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>>>
>>>
>>> - Original Message - 
>>> From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> To: 
>>> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:29 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House
>>>
>>>
 As one person has mentioned the surface raceway is one solution.  Let's
 look
 at traditional methods.   Some things to consider.  Is there insulation
 in
 the exterior walls?  Is the attic accessible?  Is this a one story
 house?
 Is there a unfinished basement or workable crawl space?  If there is
 workable spaces new holes can be drilled and romex ran.  You didn't
 mention
 is there were metal switch and outlet boxees or are the devices mounted
 to
 the lath?  Answers to these will allow a better suggestion.
 Ron
 I remember doing a lot of these old house rewires back in the seventys
 in
 the middle of summer.
 - Original Message - 
 From: "Milton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 To: 
 Sent: S

Re: [BlindHandyMan] door stopper

2006-10-29 Thread brice mijares
It would slam only when a breeze was blowing.  I live in central California, 
and we get a delta breeze.
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 7:04 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] door stopper


> why do you think it was slamming due to the garage door?
>
>
> On Sat, 28 Oct 2006, brice mijares wrote:
>
>> For a couple of bucks, I went to home depot and bought me a door stopper
>> that I screwed to the bottom of the door.  This way I couldn't lose it. 
>> The
>> door leading out the side of the garage to the back has a metal security
>> door, so I leave the inter door open all the time.  But before I put the
>> door stopper, every time we'd open the automatic garage door the side 
>> door
>> would slam shut, and scare the hell out of me.  Where that side door is, 
>> is
>> where my  Ham Shack is, and my bar.  I spend allot of time in there, so 
>> the
>> door is open most of the time, even during winter
>>
>>
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>> or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
>> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>>
>> Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
>> Various List Members At The Following Address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>> Visit the new archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
>> list just send a blank message to:
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
> Various List Members At The Following Address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House

2006-10-29 Thread Dale Leavens
I'll look for one of those, thanks. it is really hard to cut the lath 
without loosening it at least or cracking the plaster. I did get one on this 
level and eventually I'll get the second one up stairs, for now though we 
meet the new fire code requirements.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House


> Well if the clamps are on the inside or you can pry out another knockout 
> the
> use of afish tape might work.  Sometimes taking out the box is quicker in
> the longrun.  If one is working in a wall dropping a small chain from 
> above
> and a second person fishing with a single wire hook can produce results.
> Smoke alarms??? In the ceiling I guess.  Mount what is called a ceiling 
> pan
> on the surface.  Did I understand correctly you already had the cable ran?
> A ceiling pan is a round junction box that is only 1/2 inch in depth.  If
> you carefully cut chisel out the plaster you can then mount it  to the 
> lath
> without cutting them.  The box is flush with the finished plaster.  If the
> canopy of the new fixture/smoke alarm is deep enough the ceiling pan is
> totally covered even if mounted on top of the plaster.  They usually come 
> in
> a 3 or 3 1/2 inch diameter.  Seems like maybe even a 4 inch.  Probably
> depends onn the brand.
> Ron
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 2:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House
>
>
>> Ok,
>>
>> I was hoping you had a better way than I for rewiring these old houses. I
>> thought maybe you had a method of getting new wire into old fixtures 
>> which
>> did not require removing them, I sure haven't figured a way. Even
>> installing
>> new stuff into old plaster & lath sucks and is why I haven't yet 
>> installed
>> the last of my smoke alarms.
>>
>>
>> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Skype DaleLeavens
>> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>>
>>
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: 
>> Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 3:05 PM
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House
>>
>>
>>> Well Dale I am not sure what you mean by a bayonet fetting.  The one 
>>> that
>>> comes to my mind is the two screws that clamp a semi flat piece of steel
>>> against the back and the two screws are only accessible from outside the
>>> box.  The fitting then fits into a 1/2 inch knock out and is held in 
>>> with
>>> a
>>> locknut.  Some times you can snake a slim screwdriver along side the 
>>> box,
>>> but not if the screws are away from you.  Last resort pry the box away
>>> from
>>> the stud slightly and saw the nails off with a sawsall,metal cutting
>>> jigsaw
>>> or a hand hacksaw blade and remove the box from the wall.  They can be
>>> reused by drilling holes in the side of the box next to the stud and
>>> installing a couple of screws.  Code doesn't reqquire stapling to the
>>> stud
>>> when fishing in voids.
>>> And as someone said this is nothing but hot dirty nasty work.  By the 
>>> way
>>> if
>>> it was done correct originally only one lath was totally cut out the one
>>> at
>>> the and bottom was only notched or at least if it was installed after 
>>> the
>>> lath.  Of course if the lath was installed after the wire and box
>>> anything
>>> could have been done.  I guess the notched lath was more for a new box
>>> being
>>> installed in an existing lath and plaster wall.  Lots of ways to do
>>> things
>>> and every box may be different in his house.
>>> Ron
>>> - Original Message - 
>>> From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> To: 
>>> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:03 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House
>>>
>>>
I have done a lot of that here, mostly though I was able to open a wall
and
 recover it with drywall. Cutting plaster & lath is hard to do without
 making
 a mess of it and it destroys saws.

 I would like to know though how you pull cable into an existing box. 
 The
 old
 ones usually have a sort of bayonet fitting with a pinch screw
 arrangement
 into the box and are inaccessible from inside the box.

 Anyway, a lot of it is just damn hard and dirty work and tough on the
 hands.


 Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Skype DaleLeavens
 Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


 - Original Message - 
 From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 To: 
 Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:29 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House


> As one person has mentioned the surfac

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keeping track of plug wires

2006-10-29 Thread Guillermo ZÁRATE M.
Do not forget to be sure about the distributor rotation direction, and, 
also, cylender count direction.

At 09:50 a.m. 29/10/2006, you wrote:
>The very best way to do this is to take note of the firing order of your 
>engine, for example, the General Motors V-8 18654372.  Take special note 
>of where number one is, and you cannot go wrong, as all distributor caps, 
>including replacements, will only fit one way.
>
>You want to be very careful to move or bend the wires as little as 
>possible, as they do not have an ordinary wire core, and their innards can 
>be fractured easily.
>
>Geoff
>- Original Message -
>From: Robert J. Moore
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 8:16 PM
>Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Keeping track of plug wires
>
>
>those are good ideas I do use braille and I like the dimo tape idea. I think
>I can make some tags that I can twist tie on the wires.
>Now what do I do for the cap?  I suppose I could cut some boots off an old
>set of wires and tie or glue a braille tag on each one.
>unless any one has a better idea.
>thanks
>Robert
>
>
>
>
>To listen to the show archives go to link
>  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>or
>ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
>The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
>The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
>http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
>Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
>Various List Members At The Following Address:
>http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>Visit the new archives page at the following address
>http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
>list just send a blank message to:
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To listen to the show archives go to link
>  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>or
>ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
>The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
>The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
>http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
>Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
>Various List Members At The Following Address:
>http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>Visit the new archives page at the following address
>http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
>list just send a blank message to:
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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[BlindHandyMan] bonding idea needed

2006-10-29 Thread tunecollector
I am trying to affix a plastic sliding shower door guide onto an aluminum
rail.  I have tried a plethora of glues but none of them work.  Drilling in
screws will not work because they will impede the sliding of the doors.
Net, I need something that will glue a flat plastic piece onto a flat
aluminum surface.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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<*> To change settings online go to:
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] identifying black and white wires etc.

2006-10-29 Thread Tony Thurman

Found this on www.ccrane.com.  Sounds like it might be useful.

Tony
NON-CONTACT AC DETECTOR

$0.95 Was $14.95

Item # ACD

This plastic pen-type AC detector locates live outlets and AC voltage
without touching or connecting to the wire circuit. Has a red blinking light
and audible
alarm. Detailed instructions make it safe and easy to use. Runs on two
included "AAA" size batteries, and comes with a small screwdriver to open
the battery
compartment. Weight: 1 oz. Size: 5.9" L x 1" Dia.



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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] bonding idea needed

2006-10-29 Thread R & S Enterprises
I am guessing you have tried a epoxy mix.  I know it doesn't work on all 
plastics.  Is there room perhaps with counter boring to install a pop or 
normal rivet?
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: "tunecollector" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 5:27 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] bonding idea needed


>I am trying to affix a plastic sliding shower door guide onto an aluminum
> rail.  I have tried a plethora of glues but none of them work.  Drilling 
> in
> screws will not work because they will impede the sliding of the doors.
> Net, I need something that will glue a flat plastic piece onto a flat
> aluminum surface.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
> Various List Members At The Following Address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Keeping track of plug wires

2006-10-29 Thread Robert J. Moore
Mickey
I like the clothes pin idea.
I don't know the firing order but that would be easy enough to figure out.
Thanks




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Blown out valve covers

2006-10-29 Thread Robert J. Moore
When I talk about the noisy deasle engines  The cummins that they put in the
full sized Dodge pickups are I think the worst for nois.
Now I do like the sound of the deetroit 2 cycle when they get really cranked
up like at a truck pull.





To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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