Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help!

2007-03-06 Thread Lenny McHugh
Gerry,
Do you have a wet/dry shop vac?
If so this has worked for me many times. Get some wet rags or paper towels 
and hold them tight around the shop vac hose and the sink drain. The suction 
should pull the clog out and into the vac.
If not a small plunger can also help. Most people do not use a plunger the 
proper way. They push down hard. This only helps to compact and pack the 
blockage. To use the plunger with a little standing water slowly push it 
down. Then pull up fast. This will make a vaccume effect pulling the clog 
back.
Personally I like the shop vac method.

You could also remove the trap and clean it out. Most likely this is where 
the blockage occured.

- Original Message - 
From: Gerry Mack [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help!


I've really, really got to unstoop a sink.  It's a laundry-room sink.  We
own two guide dogs and I think the drain is stopped with Labrador hair.  The
pipes are the older variety.  You know--the metal pipes.  Not the Pvc pipes.
How do I unstop this pipe and get this sink back in circulation?

Gerry




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[BlindHandyMan] Sliding screen door rollers

2007-03-06 Thread Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
Aloha all,
Well, I guess it's time to do something about the screen on our 
sliding door. It runs off the track every other month...

I looked to see if I could find a screw to take the rollers out so 
that I could take them to the hardware store, but can't seem to find 
anything that looks like a screw, a button to push, a slot to fit a 
screwdriver... Any ideas?
Betsy




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Sliding screen door rollers

2007-03-06 Thread Robert J. Moore
Are the rollers on the top and the bottom rides in a track with no rollers?
If this is the case you may have a bent track at the top.  If the rollers at
the top are bad you may need to lift up on the door to pull the bottom out
of the track and when you lift up on the door the rollers should clear the
track this may expose the screws to remove or adjust the rollers. If the
track at the top is bent you can try to reform it with a pair of plyers. I
have done this before with some success but you should take care not to make
too big of adjustments at a time. IF you cause a bend or creese in the track
you could have a mess on your hands.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 11:27 AM
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sliding screen door rollers

Aloha all,
Well, I guess it's time to do something about the screen on our
sliding door. It runs off the track every other month...

I looked to see if I could find a screw to take the rollers out so
that I could take them to the hardware store, but can't seem to find
anything that looks like a screw, a button to push, a slot to fit a
screwdriver... Any ideas?
Betsy



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[BlindHandyMan] wd40 is interesting stouf

2007-03-06 Thread carl
i hav hear a list of 2000 uses for wd40 not meny of them are official but 
thing's people have found it useful for  for exhampel 
1. Use to loosen rusty nuts and screws, clean garden tools

2. Cleans piano keys

3. Keeps wicker chairs from squeaking

4. Lubricates small rolling toys

5. Keeps garden tools rust-free

6. Cleans patio door glide strip

an meny mor if anyone want's a coppy send me an email with the subjeckt of wd40 
rrequest

skype carlf16 email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
tell 01914066462


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[BlindHandyMan] Duct Tape

2007-03-06 Thread Robert J. Moore
Duct tape is another one of those infinatly versatile products. Most of you
may already know this but as the name implies it was developed for duct
work.
What is interesting is that it will work to hold together almost any thing
but duct work. Reason is that the warm dry air eventually drys out the
adhesive and it simply comes unglued

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of carl
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 12:18 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wd40 is interesting stouf

i hav hear a list of 2000 uses for wd40 not meny of them are official but
thing's people have found it useful for for exhampel
1. Use to loosen rusty nuts and screws, clean garden tools

2. Cleans piano keys

3. Keeps wicker chairs from squeaking

4. Lubricates small rolling toys

5. Keeps garden tools rust-free

6. Cleans patio door glide strip

an meny mor if anyone want's a coppy send me an email with the subjeckt of
wd40 rrequest

skype carlf16 email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
mailto:carlf23%40blueyonder.co.uk
tell 01914066462

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[BlindHandyMan] Duck tape.

2007-03-06 Thread Dan Rossi
One of the more interesting things about duct tape, is that, in fact, it 
was actually called duck d u c k tape.  It was originally developed as an 
all-purpose, somewhat water resistant, adhesive for the military.  It was 
named for the cotton duck fabric backing.  After WW II HVAC guys started 
using it to seal duct work and it then became known as duct d u c t tape.

so those people who mispronounce it as duck tape are actually calling it 
by it's original name.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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[BlindHandyMan] garden tool tip

2007-03-06 Thread Lenny McHugh
The wd40 mention protecting garden tools reminded me of a great tip.
When I was a kid my next door neighbor had a lot of garden tools and they 
always looked like new.
He had a large bucket filled with sand and poured used motor oil in with the 
sand.
When he was done with the tools he plunged them into the sand/oil mixture. The 
sand acted as a cleaning agent and the oil coated the tools preventing rust. 
That was done in the late 1950s and early 1960s when I helped him.
Funny how the mention of one thing can bring back a fond memory.

Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

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[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review

2007-03-06 Thread Ray Boyce
Hi Everyone
Porter-Cable 893PK Fixed Base  Plunge Base Router Kit

The Bottom Line
The Porter-Cable 893PK Fixed Base  Plunge Base Router Kit is a very 
well-engineered woodworking tool. There are numerous touches that obviously 
were inspired
by woodworkers, such as the dual-position switch, that allows the unit to be 
turned on and off near the handle and also at the top of the motor. I was
also very impressed with the fine height adjustment on the fixed base, as it 
was quite accurate and very easy to use. The router is much quieter than 
most,
starts smoothly, and bit changes are easy.

This is a fantastic router, one that I would highly recommend adding to any 
woodworking shop.
Pros
. The motor is much quieter than most router motors
. Spindle-lock allows for bit changes with only one wrench
. Dual-position switch is very easy to operate when using router by hand or 
in a router table
. Long power cord is a nice touch
Cons
. The map-style owner's manual can be frustrating to use

Description
. The fixed base height adjustment is quite accurate,  the quick release 
makes removing the router a simple task.
. The built-in dust collection in the plunge base is quite effective with 
small bits, but limited on large-diameter bits.
. On some router tables, the collet can be extended high enough to allow 
above-the-table bit changes.
. Ten-foot long power cord is a very nice touch.
. Single-wrench bit changes made possible by a push-button spindle lock. 
This makes bit changes very easy.
. The map-style owner's manual can be frustrating to use, as text isn't next 
to the pictures to which they refer.
. The speed adjustment dial allows speed adjustments between 10,000-23,000 
RPM.

Guide Review - Porter-Cable 893PK Fixed Base  Plunge Base Router Kit
For years, Porter-Cable has enjoyed a reputation among professional 
contractors and woodworkers for quality, well-engineered tools. At the very 
least, the
Porter-Cable 893PK Multi-Base Router Kit lives up to that reputation. In 
this case, I really think they've gone above and beyond. This is a top-notch 
router
kit, one that other manufacturers should aspire to emulate.

Holding the unit in my hands and starting the motor the first time was a bit 
of a surprise. While the soft-start motor takes more than a second to get up
to full speed, it does it so smoothly and quietly that I wondered if the 
router was really functioning properly. (Note: Keep this soft start in mind 
when
using this router, as you should not start cutting until the router is fully 
running at the chosen speed.)

I used the router with a number of different sizes of bits, and the 2-1/4 HP 
motor handled the load with ease when using the
appropriate speed for the bits.
When plunging the router with the plunge base, the thumb lock mechanism was 
easy to reach and did not lose it's grip while routing. The six-position 
depth
stop was smooth, yet has a solid feel, much more so than a lot of other 
routers in it's class.

The height adjustment knob on the fixed base allows very accurate height 
adjustments as small as 1/128, yet the quick release lets the woodworker 
make
major changes to the bit height quickly.

There are a couple of minor tweaks that Porter-Cable could address. For 
instance, the screws on the fixed base are #10-24 with a Phillips head, 
while the
screws on the plunge base are #8-32 using a Flathead/Torx head. This means 
you need two tools to change the base plates, and must keep track of two 
separate
sets of screws. This is not a major problem, but a minor issue that I wonder 
if Porter-Cable engineers may have overlooked. 



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Duck tape.

2007-03-06 Thread rj
Call it what you may, but my wife has more use for duck or duct tape than any 
person I know.
RJ
  - Original

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Duck tape.

2007-03-06 Thread Robert J. Moore
Interesting. I did not know that.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 1:01 PM
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Duck tape.

One of the more interesting things about duct tape, is that, in fact, it
was actually called duck d u c k tape. It was originally developed as an
all-purpose, somewhat water resistant, adhesive for the military. It was
named for the cotton duck fabric backing. After WW II HVAC guys started
using it to seal duct work and it then became known as duct d u c t tape.

so those people who mispronounce it as duck tape are actually calling it
by it's original name.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Duck tape.

2007-03-06 Thread Donnie Parrett
As long as I've got some duct, or duck, tape and some velkro, I think I can fix 
about anything!

See ya,
Scooter



Contact me at:
Donnie Parrett
1956 Asa Flat Road
Annville, KY  40402
Home #  606-364-3321
Cell #  606-438-2557
Church #  606-364-PRAY
Email  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of rj
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 2:15 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Duck tape.


Call it what you may, but my wife has more use for duck or duct tape than any 
person I know.
RJ
  - Original

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help!

2007-03-06 Thread spiro
places like McMaster Carr will answe the phone and send you some rather 
strong enzimes to put down there, that will not hurt pipes but really do 
eat protein. Works for me.


On Mon, 5 Mar 2007, Gerry Mack wrote:

 I've really, really got to unstoop a sink.  It's a laundry-room sink.  We
 own two guide dogs and I think the drain is stopped with Labrador hair.  The
 pipes are the older variety.  You know--the metal pipes.  Not the Pvc pipes.
 How do I unstop this pipe and get this sink back in circulation?

 Gerry




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help!

2007-03-06 Thread spiro
I forgot about this. I like this idea. Too bad for me, when I tried it, I 
found I had a crack in the bin and it leaked allover the place. That and 
the larger hose of the vac was too big to get down the toilet, but I know 
I'd have done well if I could have gotten a 1 inch hose down there.
A wash cloth blocked the toilet and removal broke the toilet as the toilet 
was old and didn't like being lifted.


On Tue, 6 Mar 2007, Lenny  McHugh wrote:

 Gerry,
 Do you have a wet/dry shop vac?
 If so this has worked for me many times. Get some wet rags or paper towels
 and hold them tight around the shop vac hose and the sink drain. The suction
 should pull the clog out and into the vac.
 If not a small plunger can also help. Most people do not use a plunger the
 proper way. They push down hard. This only helps to compact and pack the
 blockage. To use the plunger with a little standing water slowly push it
 down. Then pull up fast. This will make a vaccume effect pulling the clog
 back.
 Personally I like the shop vac method.

 You could also remove the trap and clean it out. Most likely this is where
 the blockage occured.

 - Original Message -
 From: Gerry Mack [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 11:56 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help!


 I've really, really got to unstoop a sink.  It's a laundry-room sink.  We
 own two guide dogs and I think the drain is stopped with Labrador hair.  The
 pipes are the older variety.  You know--the metal pipes.  Not the Pvc pipes.
 How do I unstop this pipe and get this sink back in circulation?

 Gerry




 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help!

2007-03-06 Thread Jennifer Jackson
I do not know the details, but there are compressed air cans for plumbing.  You 
have to cover the overflow valve, and then blow it out.

As I do not have one of those, I would try removing the trap and the shop vac 
method.  I have all of those tools.


Jennifer


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Sliding screen door rollers

2007-03-06 Thread Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
Aloha Robert,
I did see that post but it is about the sliding glass doors. My 
problem is with the sliding screen door.
Betsy
At 08:11 AM 3/6/2007, you wrote:

Betsy
If you go to the files page there is an article about patio doors it is
article 193

-Original Message-
From: 
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 11:27 AM
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sliding screen door rollers

Aloha all,
Well, I guess it's time to do something about the screen on our
sliding door. It runs off the track every other month...

I looked to see if I could find a screw to take the rollers out so
that I could take them to the hardware store, but can't seem to find
anything that looks like a screw, a button to push, a slot to fit a
screwdriver... Any ideas?
Betsy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Re: [BlindHandyMan] (hi marks) Flexible Pattern Braille cells

2007-03-06 Thread Lenny McHugh
Thanks for the information, I will have to call more of these places. So far 
I have ordered three hi-marks and ended up with textured fabric paint.
I believe that the old hi-marks is no longer made and many of these sites 
are substituting the fabric paint. Since I want to have my table saw marked 
the fabric paint is not acceptable for me. I do plan to look at the 
different type of glue that is packaged in a tube. Something like the old 
model airplane glue container.
Lenny
- Original Message - 
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] (hi marks) Flexible Pattern Braille cells


Lenny,
I remember reading somewhere that this is now available in a clear
substance as well as the bright orange. When I googled Hi Marks it
took me to several places including American Foundation for the
Blind. I saw references to Hi Marks on their website, but couldn't
find anywhere to get an item number for it. Their number is:
800-232-5463

Also, the American Printinghouse for the Blind had references to it
on their site but I again couldn't find it. Their number is:
800-223-1839
Betsy
At 02:16 AM 3/2/2007, you wrote:

Does anyone know where I can purchase Hi Marks in the Us? In the past I 
used
and really liked this product. For some reason I can no longer locate the
product. So far I have ordered it from three different sources and what I 
am
sent is fabric paint. The Hi Marks that I used in the past came in a tube
that had a very small end that the glue like stuff came out. I want to mark
my table saw at a few tilt positions.

Please send me the information off list.Thanks
Lenny mailto:lmchugh%40verizon.net[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: martin webster
mailto:webstermartin%40yahoo.com[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 3:41 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Flexible Pattern Braille cells

Hi John,
I use a product called high mark and more recently millyput. A sighted
person has to use the high mark which comes in a tube and takes a great
amout of skill to apply, but the results are very great. I have seen lathes
and milling machines marked with this stuff. Millyput is two sticks of what
all most feels like hard plastersene
whish you mix in equal amouts and need together until they are thuraly
mixed. I have good results with these to, products. I can produce braille
dots for mocrowaves washers dryers cookers and so on. It is even possible
to produce very readable braille, It's very fiddly, but It gets results.
The more time you are prepared to work with these two products the better
the results. Hope this helps. High mark is abailable from the RNIB in
england, and millyput is available from any good hardware/ironmounger shop.
Regards
Martin Webster

mailto:woodworkingfortheblind%40comcast.net[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Two ideas,

1 - would it make any sense to take a fine stylus, dip the end in glue,
andapply a tiny glue drop to the surface?

2 - would it make any sense to use a thin metal strip on its reverse side
whre you would take a pointed metal punch and tap the surface of the metal
strip so that a depression is made on the back side and a raised impression
on the face side?

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

-- Original message --
From: John Freiss mailto:jmfreiss%40verizon.net[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  I need to find a product and this list seems to have good ideas. I need
a
  flexible peace of metal with two rows of braille dots drilled out in it.
I am
  trying to glue dots on different items and none have regular flat
surfaces. I
  know I could use dymo tape but it won't work because I need it not to be
seen by
  sighted individuals. What I have come up with is to use half beads and
glue
  dots. It works well but now I need to get my spacing down. This
flexible peace
  of metal needs to go around cylinders, cones, ovals and any other shape
in
  between. I need it to last as well.
 
  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Especially if there is an
off the
  shelf item someone knows about.
 
  Thanks
 
  John
 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

-
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food  Drink QA.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help!

2007-03-06 Thread Tom Fowle
I'm opposed to using force, like compressed air and pressure water to remove
clogs unless you have good newish plumbing.

Try drain cleaners first, with great care of course, they're all nasty.

We've not found the enzimes work except for perhaps helping to keep drains
clean.

follow bottle instructions on the cleaners and keep them off your skin.

You have your choice of disasters that can happen with any of these methods,
chemical messes with drain cleaners, or blown pipes with the
mechanicals.

Don't go for the foaming cleaners, they can boil up and get all over 
everything

The reason you get so many opinions is that there are so many ways
to do it, and none of them is always best.

tom Fowle



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Sliding screen door rollers

2007-03-06 Thread Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
No, there are rollers on top and bottom and both have a track.
The track does not seem to be bent. I do think the rollers need to be 
replaced, but cannot see how to get the rollers out of the frame.
Betsy
At 07:53 AM 3/6/2007, you wrote:

Are the rollers on the top and the bottom rides in a track with no rollers?
If this is the case you may have a bent track at the top. If the rollers at
the top are bad you may need to lift up on the door to pull the bottom out
of the track and when you lift up on the door the rollers should clear the
track this may expose the screws to remove or adjust the rollers. If the
track at the top is bent you can try to reform it with a pair of plyers. I
have done this before with some success but you should take care not to make
too big of adjustments at a time. IF you cause a bend or creese in the track
you could have a mess on your hands.

-Original Message-
From: 
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 11:27 AM
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sliding screen door rollers

Aloha all,
Well, I guess it's time to do something about the screen on our
sliding door. It runs off the track every other month...

I looked to see if I could find a screw to take the rollers out so
that I could take them to the hardware store, but can't seem to find
anything that looks like a screw, a button to push, a slot to fit a
screwdriver... Any ideas?
Betsy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help!

2007-03-06 Thread Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
Gerry,
If the pipes are old, be careful with the compressed air. My friend 
was trying to clear a kitchen drain with one of those things and the 
drain pipe broke inside the wall.


At 11:45 AM 3/6/2007, you wrote:

I do not know the details, but there are compressed air cans for 
plumbing. You have to cover the overflow valve, and then blow it out.

As I do not have one of those, I would try removing the trap and the 
shop vac method. I have all of those tools.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sliding screen door rollers

2007-03-06 Thread Ray Boyce
Hi Betsy
Do you know who manufactured your door, if so ring and ask them do they have 
replacement rollers for that make of door.While on the phone ask how to 
remove them.
If you do not know the manufacture then lift off the door and stand it up 
against a chair so you can inspect how the rollers are held in.
As these are made to replace during the door's lifetime, they are either 
held in by screws or have been pop riveted in.
I have had door rollers which I can remove by placing a screw driver under 
the roller and just easing it out leaving the bracket in place.
HTH
Ray
- Original Message - 
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 8:03 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Sliding screen door rollers


 No, there are rollers on top and bottom and both have a track.
 The track does not seem to be bent. I do think the rollers need to be
 replaced, but cannot see how to get the rollers out of the frame.
 Betsy
 At 07:53 AM 3/6/2007, you wrote:

Are the rollers on the top and the bottom rides in a track with no 
rollers?
If this is the case you may have a bent track at the top. If the rollers 
at
the top are bad you may need to lift up on the door to pull the bottom out
of the track and when you lift up on the door the rollers should clear the
track this may expose the screws to remove or adjust the rollers. If the
track at the top is bent you can try to reform it with a pair of plyers. I
have done this before with some success but you should take care not to 
make
too big of adjustments at a time. IF you cause a bend or creese in the 
track
you could have a mess on your hands.

-Original Message-
From:
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 11:27 AM
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sliding screen door rollers

Aloha all,
Well, I guess it's time to do something about the screen on our
sliding door. It runs off the track every other month...

I looked to see if I could find a screw to take the rollers out so
that I could take them to the hardware store, but can't seem to find
anything that looks like a screw, a button to push, a slot to fit a
screwdriver... Any ideas?
Betsy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




 



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[BlindHandyMan] Product Recalls

2007-03-06 Thread Ray Boyce
Hi Everyone
One World Technologies Recalls Throat Plates Sold with Ryobi Router
Tables Due to Laceration Hazard

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in
cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary
recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using
recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.

Name of product: Ryobi Router Table Throat Plates.

Units: About 100,000.

Manufacturer: One World Technologies Inc., of Anderson, S.C.

Hazard: The throat plates do not securely snap into the router's table
top bit opening. The throat plate can come loose during operation and be
ejected from the table top, posing a laceration hazard to consumers.

Incidents/Injuries: One World Technologies has received three reports of
throat plates coming loose during use. Two consumers were struck on the
nose by the throat plate and received a minor cut and bruising.

Description: The recall involves Ryobi-brand router tables, with model
number RT101, which is written on the table's data plate, located on its
front leg. These tables were sold as part of the Ryobi combo kits with
model numbers R161RTA and R162RTA. The combo kit model number is written
on the packaging. A router table holds the router underneath the table.
Instead of moving the router over the wood, the table allows the user to
guide the wood for cutting. The throat plates are components of the
table that consist of five yellow plastic rings. They serve as a guide
for the router bit and provide a stable surface around the bit.

Sold Exclusively at: Home Depot stores nationwide between May 2004 and
January 2007 for about $100 for the combo kits that include the router,
router table and throat plates.

Manufactured in: China

Remedy: Consumers should immediately check their router tables to ensure
that the throat plates securely snap into the router bit opening. If any
throat plates do not securely snap into the table top, consumers should
stop using the router table immediately and contact One Word
Technologies for a free replacement set of throat plates.

Consumer Contact: For more information, consumers can call One World
Technologies Inc. at (800) 525-2579 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. ET Monday
through Friday, or go to the firm's Web site at
www.ryobitools.com
Next Recall
Weber-Stephen Products Recalls Gas Grills Due to Fire Hazard

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in
cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary
recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using
recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.

Name of product: Weber(r) Genesis(r) 320(tm) Series Gas Grills

Units: About 14,000

Manufacturer: Weber-Stephen Products Co., of Palatine, Ill.

Hazard: The gas hose attached to the side burner of the grill can crack
or break off during shipping, causing it to leak gas when in use, which
poses a fire hazard to consumers.

Incidents/Injuries: Weber has received 49 reports of hose damage or gas
leaks. No injuries have been reported.

Description: This recall involves the Weber(r) Genesis(r) 320(tm) Series
gas grills which are designed to be used with either natural gas or with
liquid propane gas tanks, and are equipped with a flush-mounted side
burner accessory. The gas hose is made of stainless steel. The grills
are sold in stainless steel and in black, blue or green porcelain
enamel. All serial numbers begin with the prefix DI. The model and
serial number are located on the tank blocker/drip pan holder located
inside the storage cart.

Only the following product names and model numbers are included in this
recall:

Product Name: Model Numbers
Genesis(r) E-320(tm): 3751001; 3757001; 3758001; 3851001
Genesis(r) S-320(tm): 3780001; 3880001
Genesis(r) EP-320(tm): 3751301; 3752301; 3757301; 3758301; 3851301
Genesis(r) ESP-320(tm): 3750101; 3750201; 3850101
Genesis(r) CEP-320(tm): (Sold in Canada Only), 3751701; 3752701; 3851701

Sold at: Home Depot, Ace Hardware and Home Centers, Tru-Serve, Do-It
Best, and other home improvement and hardware stores nationwide from
November 2006 through February 2007 for between $450 to $770.

Manufactured in: United States

Remedy: Consumers should stop using the gas grill immediately and
contact Weber-Stephen to obtain a free replacement gas hose and schedule
a free installation.

Consumer Contact: Call Weber-Stephen toll-free at (866) 249-3237 between
7 a.m. and 11 p.m. CT Monday through Friday, or visit the company's
recall web site at
http://www.weberrecall.com



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] (hi marks) Flexible Pattern Braille cells

2007-03-06 Thread Mick
Lenny,

You can use Dymo tape and make a Braille letter l.  Cut this out and you will 
have a line that you can stick on anything that does not get too hot.  You can 
then label this line with another Braille label.  This works great on table saw 
bevel scales.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 4:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] (hi marks) Flexible Pattern Braille cells


  Thanks for the information, I will have to call more of these places. So far 
  I have ordered three hi-marks and ended up with textured fabric paint.
  I believe that the old hi-marks is no longer made and many of these sites 
  are substituting the fabric paint. Since I want to have my table saw marked 
  the fabric paint is not acceptable for me. I do plan to look at the 
  different type of glue that is packaged in a tube. Something like the old 
  model airplane glue container.
  Lenny
  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 12:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] (hi marks) Flexible Pattern Braille cells

  Lenny,
  I remember reading somewhere that this is now available in a clear
  substance as well as the bright orange. When I googled Hi Marks it
  took me to several places including American Foundation for the
  Blind. I saw references to Hi Marks on their website, but couldn't
  find anywhere to get an item number for it. Their number is:
  800-232-5463

  Also, the American Printinghouse for the Blind had references to it
  on their site but I again couldn't find it. Their number is:
  800-223-1839
  Betsy
  At 02:16 AM 3/2/2007, you wrote:

  Does anyone know where I can purchase Hi Marks in the Us? In the past I 
  used
  and really liked this product. For some reason I can no longer locate the
  product. So far I have ordered it from three different sources and what I 
  am
  sent is fabric paint. The Hi Marks that I used in the past came in a tube
  that had a very small end that the glue like stuff came out. I want to mark
  my table saw at a few tilt positions.
  
  Please send me the information off list.Thanks
  Lenny mailto:lmchugh%40verizon.net[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - Original Message -
  From: martin webster
  mailto:webstermartin%40yahoo.com[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 3:41 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Flexible Pattern Braille cells
  
  Hi John,
  I use a product called high mark and more recently millyput. A sighted
  person has to use the high mark which comes in a tube and takes a great
  amout of skill to apply, but the results are very great. I have seen lathes
  and milling machines marked with this stuff. Millyput is two sticks of what
  all most feels like hard plastersene
  whish you mix in equal amouts and need together until they are thuraly
  mixed. I have good results with these to, products. I can produce braille
  dots for mocrowaves washers dryers cookers and so on. It is even possible
  to produce very readable braille, It's very fiddly, but It gets results.
  The more time you are prepared to work with these two products the better
  the results. Hope this helps. High mark is abailable from the RNIB in
  england, and millyput is available from any good hardware/ironmounger shop.
  Regards
  Martin Webster
  
  mailto:woodworkingfortheblind%40comcast.net[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  wrote:
  Two ideas,
  
  1 - would it make any sense to take a fine stylus, dip the end in glue,
  andapply a tiny glue drop to the surface?
  
  2 - would it make any sense to use a thin metal strip on its reverse side
  whre you would take a pointed metal punch and tap the surface of the metal
  strip so that a depression is made on the back side and a raised impression
  on the face side?
  
  --
  Larry Martin
  Woodworking for the Blind
  --joining the world of blind wood workers
  
  -- Original message --
  From: John Freiss mailto:jmfreiss%40verizon.net[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I need to find a product and this list seems to have good ideas. I need
  a
flexible peace of metal with two rows of braille dots drilled out in it.
  I am
trying to glue dots on different items and none have regular flat
  surfaces. I
know I could use dymo tape but it won't work because I need it not to be
  seen by
sighted individuals. What I have come up with is to use half beads and
  glue
dots. It works well but now I need to get my spacing down. This
  flexible peace
of metal needs to go around cylinders, cones, ovals and any other shape
  in
between. I need it to last as well.
   
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Especially if there is an
  off the
shelf item someone knows about.
   
Thanks
   
John
   
  
  [Non-text portions of this message have 

[BlindHandyMan] Creating A Super Strong Wood Joint

2007-03-06 Thread Ray Boyce
Hi Everyone
Creating Super Wood Joints
By Monte Burch

A variety of wood joints are used in furniture and cabinetry construction. 
They can vary in strength, depending on the joint and the design of the 
piece.
Some traditional methods have been used in the past to create super strong 
wood joints. Today newer products and techniques have also developed. 
Following
are some basic super-strong wood joints, both traditional and modern, and 
instructions on how to make them.

The illustration shows a standard half-lap joint.

A glued butt joint is the weakest, a half-lap joint is stronger and adding 
screws creates an even stronger joint. But traditionally, the strongest wood
joint has been a mortise-and-tenon, including both a blind tenon and a 
through tenon. These joints may be used to create frames for 
frame-and-panel doors,
for dust webs, or drawer supports, and even in basic furniture framing, such 
as legs and rails for tables and chairs. These joints may be created in 
several
ways. Tenons can be cut using a table saw, band saw or by hand. A tenoning 
jig makes the chore easier and more precise. Mortises can be cut using a 
mortising
machine, a mortising accessory in a drill press, or by drilling a series of 
holes with a drill press and cleaning up the cuts with a chisel. Adding a 
peg
to the mortise and tenon joint creates an even stronger joint-one that is 
used to join timbers in timber-frame construction.

Above and Below: Mortise and tenon.


Dado

A dado joint is stronger than nailing and gluing cross members together, 
such as for shelving in a bookcase or cabinet. A sliding dovetail joint is 
stronger
than a dado joint. A dado joint can be cut with a dado head in a table or 
radial arm saw. Sliding dovetail joints are cut using a router and a 
straight
edge guide board.

Sliding Dovetail

Splined miter

The ends, fronts and backs of boxes, as used with cabinetry construction, 
are joined in a variety of ways. Glued miters are sometimes used; a splined 
miter
joint is stronger. The miters are cut, and then a dado head is used to cut 
slots in the joints. Splines are cut to match and hold the pieces together.

Finger joint

Another common joint for boxes and some cabinetry, including drawers, is a 
finger joint. This consists of fingers of wood interjoining and creates a 
fairly
sturdy joint, much better than nailing and gluing. Finger joints can be cut 
using a jig and table saw, or with a router and finger-joint jig.

A router used with a dovetail jig makes to easy to

create traditional dovetail joints.

Dovetail joint

A stronger joint for these applications, and also a very traditional joint 
is the dovetail. These can be hand-cut, or cut with a dovetail jig and 
router
with dovetail bit. Dovetails may also be through, which means you can see 
both ends of the stock, or stopped. The latter is often used on drawers 
where
a more economical wood is used on the sides with a finer wood for the front.

Dowel

Another traditional joint is the dowel joint. This may be used to join 
boards edge-to-edge to create wider stock, or in framing as well. A doweling 
jig,
drill and bits are used to bore precisely located holes to align the stock. 
Glue is used with the dowels to add strength.

Edge-joined boards can also be joined using tongue-and-groove. This is often 
a method used to create backs for cupboards, not gluing the boards together,
but holding them in a frame. This allows for the natural expansion and 
contraction of the wood.

A biscuit cutter and wood biscuits can also add strength

to joints.

A more modern approach to edge-gluing is the use of small wooden biscuits 
and a biscuit cutter. The technique, however, is not limited to edge gluing. 
Inset
panels between legs such as on nightstands, desks and others can be joined 
with this tactic. And, biscuits can be used as splines for 45-degree miter 
joints
as well.

Pocket-hole joints are extremely strong, quick and

easy to make using the Kreg Pocket Hole tools.

One of the newest joints is the pocket-hole joint. This utilizes screws 
fitted into angled holes in the stock to create extremely sturdy joints. 
Glue may
or may not be used, depending on the joint and design of the project. 
Pocket-hole joints can be used for almost any woodworking application. The 
Kreg Jig
K3 Master System is the ultimate kit for pocket-hole joinery. It features an 
interchangeable drill guide block with 1/8-inch adjustments for 1/2- to 
1-1/2-inch
thick material. Front side clamping speeds the drilling process, and a dust 
collector keeps things tidy. The K3 Master System makes it quick and easy to
create a super-strong wood joint.



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