Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.

[Bill Gallik]

Since we're on the subject of pouring concrete I have a project that could
use an informed tip.  The sidewalk section that butts up to the bottom of my
concrete steps into the house is badly shifted and I want to replace it with
a newly poured section.

The shifted section is 36" by 24" and of course there are two adjacent
sections of sidewalk as well as the steps.  I was hoping I could just put a
board where the "naked" side of this sidewalk section is and pour new
concrete, but I'm not sure what I should do about the neighboring concrete;
the two pre-existing sidewalk sections and the bottom of the steps.

Can I pour the new concrete so it's in contact with the three older items or
do I need to put some type of separating material between them?  If I need
to put some type of separating material between the new concrete and the old
what would be best to use and how thick would it need to be? I would imagine
that if I need some type of separator the thinner the better (to a point of
course)?

Bill Gallik
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
God made man before woman so as to give him time to think of an answer for
her first question.
* * * * * * *
- "The secret of a good sermon is to have a good beginning and a good
ending; and to have the two as close together as possible."
- George Burns




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Monkey wrench

[Jewel Blanch]

Lee!  That is not the squealing of your reel winding off at high speed that you 
can hear!  No it is the cries of the young lady who you have hooked.
Your technique may not be perfect in the eyes of the dedicated angler, but for 
reeling in young ladies:  well, it just cain't be beat!!!

   Jewel

- Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 12:09 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Monkey wrench



  Does anyone know where the name Monkey wrench came from? thanksLee

  -- 
  I'm pretending I'm pulling in a TROUT! Am I doing it correctly??


   


--


  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.7/816 - Release Date: 23/05/07 3:59 
p.m.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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[BlindHandyMan] safely digging holes, was How To Install a Basket Ball Hoop

[Jennifer Jackson]

So what is the best way to know where it is safe to dig holes in the yard?  We 
supposedly have this free service in Oklahoma that marks them.  However, when 
you actually call them, they do not do the actual property, just the public 
areas like from the street to the sidewalk.

Is this something you need to worry about when planting a garden?  


Jennifer


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.

[Dale Leavens]

Mostly cement work in my experience is physically hard work. If your 
preparation is thorough it isn't anything more skilled than icing a cake. if 
your preparation is not thorough the mess can be quite spectacular.

Mostly I rather enjoy working with concrete. It is quite satisfying. I would 
have liked to form up some curbs for edging my gardens but decided I would 
require some pretty good equipment for moving them about and gave up on it. 
There is too much else to do anyway.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: GenePoole 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 10:04 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.


  I suspect this is probably oversimplified, but I have heard that if you can 
frost a cake you can do cement work. What do yall think?
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 5:59 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.

  OK Dan,

  About troweling.

  I have three trowls I use, I will have to replace two next job if it is of 
any size, the third one is more commonly used for sticking mortar onto cement 
blocks or bricks. I will describe them.

  The mortar one is a flat steel plate roughly triangular in shape about 14 
inches long from heel to toe shaped more or less like a linin iron. The handle 
comes off the top surface toward the rear sticking back. It is useful for 
working down along the form to get voids and bubbles out of the cement but it 
also works well as a small float or to pat the surface to help work up the 
cream. This tool isn't often used by cement workers, more commonly by brick and 
block layers but because I have one I often use it with cement as well.

  The more commonly used trowel is a rectangular piece of steel with a handle 
welded to one surface. These come in different sizes too. Mine is out in the 
shed just now but I guess it is about 12 inches by four inches. With the handle 
right over the center it is pretty good for tamping but the edge can be worked 
under things like the form for stair risers and it can be used as a float to.

  Finally there is the edging tool. This is about 6 inches long and about two 
and a half wide maybe three. It is rolled down on one edge and the ends are 
gently turned up. there is a handle across the non-working surface and it is 
used sliding lengthways to form a round over on the edge of concrete. Another 
common edging tool is a similar dimension but with a square bar running the 
length of the middle of the working surface. This is often used to form an edge 
on mating ends of sidewalk slabs while the round-over is more usually used to 
form the edges of the sidewalk slabs or the leading edges of stair treads.

  Another tool I and many other cement workers use is a length of board about 
thirty to thirty-six inches long and approaching four inches wide, a length of 
2 by 4 will work fine but more usually one uses a bit of three quarter inch 
plywood, I am not sure why except maybe for the weight. You form a handle at 
right angles to one surface, usually people seem to form a "D" handle also of 
wood. This tool is usually the first one selected for tamping and screeding the 
surface flat. These seem to be home made tools, quite possibly there are 
commercial ones available but I have never seen one but I have seen many 
professional and amateur builders use them.

  Now in a big project the cement is first leveled with a bull float, a large 
flat think on a long arm handle. This is how they usually begin leveling 
something like a slab or basement floor, they may walk out on parts of it using 
plywood or something else to bear weight but usually they try not to do so. 
Once the slab begins to set up it is usual for commercial builders to get out 
on it with a power trowel which is something like a big floor polisher but with 
ceiling fan like paddles under it. Once the cement will hold a man without 
leaving significant prints this tool is worked over and over and over the floor 
along with gentle dampening which is how they get that wonderful smooth 
surface. It can be done by hand of course but it is murder on the back and 
knees and much slower.

  So, take your wooden trowel to firmly pat the concrete down and because of 
it's length to screed the surface reasonably level and flat by working it back 
and forth across the surface then take your rectangular trowel and similarly 
float it gently over the surface at first to get a feel for flat and level and 
as you work you will be polishing and bringing up the water with the light 
aggregate (the cream). this I always rather enjoy though it is murder on knees 
and back and hands.

  You may wish to repeat this step as the cement cures, it is remarkable how 
you can work up even more water

fingers Re: [BlindHandyMan] Safety Tips When Using a Vice

[Lenny McHugh]

Ray,
I was a little disappointed. I really expected that the tip would be not to 
hold the piece with your fingers in the jaws when tightening.
Seriously it is a good read.
Lenny
- Original Message - 
From: "Boyce, Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 11:03 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Safety Tips When Using a Vice


Hi All
Vices Safety Tips

 Always be sure to wear eye protection when hammering an object being
held by a vice.
 Worn jaw inserts and bent sliding cross pin handles should be replaced.
 Never use an extension cheater handle or hammer on the handle of a vice
for extra clamping pressure.
 If there is any possibility of marring the work, use jaw liners with a
vice.
 Discard any vice that shows even the slightest hairline fracture.
 Use bolts in all the holes in the base of the vice and use lock washers
under the nuts.
 When work is held in the vice for sawing, be sure to saw as close to
the jaws as possible.
 When clamping long work pieces in a vice, always make sure the end of
the work is properly supported.

Different types of Vices

Bench Vice

 Tool that mounts on a workbench or table to hold work pieces securely
in place between two flat jaws.
 Generally used in light-duty applications.
 Available in both stationary and swivel models to hold work at various
angles and positions.
 A threaded spindle opens and closes the jaws of the vice to hold and
release work piece.
 Generally has jaws ranging in length from 3" to 8".
 Jaw opening ranges from 4" to 12" in different models.

Woodworking Vice

 Has jaws made of wooden pads to hold work piece securely in place
without marring surface of work piece.
 Generally mounted to the side of a workbench
 Some woodworking vices have a fast-acting screw arrangement for the
rapid positioning of the movable jaw prior to clamping.
 Smaller vices have continuous screws and are light and easy to clamp on
a workbench or sawhorse.

Utility Vice

 Similar to a bench vice.
 Generally has jaws ranging in length from 3" to 6".
 Better models feature swivel bases so the vice may be turned to the
best angle for each particular job.
 Some utility vices either have cast-in pipe jaws or permit special
curved-face pipe jaws to be inserted between the regular jaws to add
versatility

Angle Vice

 Contains marked adjustments to permit clamping at different angles.
 Can also be adjusted to a flat position and used as a regular vice.
 Can be locked into any position with a thumb screw, and bolts can be
tightened for permanent positioning.

Clamp Vice

 Is a combination fixed and portable vice, featuring a bottom clamp for
easy attachment to workbenches, sawhorses or tables.
 The best choice for portable use.

Drill Press Vice

 Great for holding work piece still when drilling, tapping and reaming
on a drill press.
 Most models have grooves machined on both sides for mounting to machine
table.
 Used for 90-degree machining of side bodies

Vacuum Vice

 Light-duty vice that has a lever-operated suction cup on the bottom to
secure to tabletop or other work surface.
Pipe Vice
 This Has a vee shaped jaws to hold the outside diameter of the pipe
securely while threading or cutting off to length.
These can also come in different sorts of chains  which wrap around the
pipe and is locked in by a turning adjusting screw.
Many others for different applications.



**
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
e-mail and delete the e-mail.

Any content of this message and its attachments which
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Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
**



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/

Re: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!

[spiro]

This is why I mentioned that all but
the sending address
and the line "if you dispute this' vs
"see the details of this trans" were different. I did study the two of 
them after I found that it wasn't listed in my paypal account history.
I was surprised that i could be taken and marveled at the *line count 
similarity.
yes, thank you, I don't study headers, bt hat is one level deper as well.
Again thanks


On Wed, 23 May 2007, Steve wrote:

> Spiro,
>
> What you need to know is Paypal will never send a message like that to you.
>
> Second, it is easy to spoof or fake an e-mail address.
>
> You can view the header of the message.  If you did, you'd notice that the IP
> address was overseas mail.  There are sites where you can lookup a numeric IP
> address and verify if it was truly from Paypal.  In this case, you would 
> notice
> that it is not.
>
> Steve
> Lansing, Mi
> - Original Message -
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 3:26 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!
>
>
> We have talked about fraud before, on list;  I think.
> I mention this for the awareness of other online shoppers and paypal
> users.
> Please read.
>
> I received an email
> from [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> The subject line was either "You have sent a payment" or "electronic funds
> transfer".
> it said I had just sent a given amoutn to an email.
> It said that if I didn't approve this transaction, to "click here".
> It stated that since I used my bank account that the funds were sent
> without delay.
> The rest of the email was as one would expect.
> Of course I flipped as I didn't recognize the email address and it didn't
> come close to any of the dozen I have used recently or regularly.
> So I logued in and checked my account, by typing the paypal into a new
> brouser window. The trans wasn't on my account.
> So I looked at a recent "electronic funds transfer" email from paypal and
> found this:
> First, the real email will say "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" as sender.
> Secondly it says "to view transaction details click here" and after that
> the two emails, real and fraudulent were exactly the same.
> So since it concerned me, a rather *jaded privacy and security freak! I
> figured I'd hopefully give valid warning to anyone wise enough to read
> this.
> sorry if it's concise, but I'm tight for time.
> Read it through, I think it's all there.
>
>
>
>


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!

[spiro]

I completely forgot this forwarding address. Thanks.
I buy handyman type thing with it, Dave; so I hope it will help.


On Wed, 23 May 2007, Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press wrote:

> Aloha listers,
> One of the clues is that any email from PayPal that is real will have
> your name in it,. I know this is off topic but I had to respond. The
> address to send such emails to is:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Betsy
> At 09:26 AM 5/23/2007, you wrote:
>
>> We have talked about fraud before, on list; I think.
>> I mention this for the awareness of other online shoppers and paypal
>> users.
>> Please read.
>>
>> I received an email
>> from [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> The subject line was either "You have sent a payment" or "electronic funds
>> transfer".
>> it said I had just sent a given amoutn to an email.
>> It said that if I didn't approve this transaction, to "click here".
>> It stated that since I used my bank account that the funds were sent
>> without delay.
>> The rest of the email was as one would expect.
>> Of course I flipped as I didn't recognize the email address and it didn't
>> come close to any of the dozen I have used recently or regularly.
>> So I logued in and checked my account, by typing the paypal into a new
>> brouser window. The trans wasn't on my account.
>> So I looked at a recent "electronic funds transfer" email from paypal and
>> found this:
>> First, the real email will say "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" as sender.
>> Secondly it says "to view transaction details click here" and after that
>> the two emails, real and fraudulent were exactly the same.
>> So since it concerned me, a rather *jaded privacy and security freak! I
>> figured I'd hopefully give valid warning to anyone wise enough to read
>> this.
>> sorry if it's concise, but I'm tight for time.
>> Read it through, I think it's all there.
>>
>>
>
>
>


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
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[BlindHandyMan] Safety Tips When Using a Vice

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi All
Vices Safety Tips

 Always be sure to wear eye protection when hammering an object being
held by a vice.
 Worn jaw inserts and bent sliding cross pin handles should be replaced.
 Never use an extension cheater handle or hammer on the handle of a vice
for extra clamping pressure.
 If there is any possibility of marring the work, use jaw liners with a
vice.
 Discard any vice that shows even the slightest hairline fracture.
 Use bolts in all the holes in the base of the vice and use lock washers
under the nuts.
 When work is held in the vice for sawing, be sure to saw as close to
the jaws as possible.
 When clamping long work pieces in a vice, always make sure the end of
the work is properly supported.

Different types of Vices

Bench Vice

 Tool that mounts on a workbench or table to hold work pieces securely
in place between two flat jaws.
 Generally used in light-duty applications.
 Available in both stationary and swivel models to hold work at various
angles and positions.
 A threaded spindle opens and closes the jaws of the vice to hold and
release work piece.
 Generally has jaws ranging in length from 3" to 8".
 Jaw opening ranges from 4" to 12" in different models.

Woodworking Vice

 Has jaws made of wooden pads to hold work piece securely in place
without marring surface of work piece.
 Generally mounted to the side of a workbench
 Some woodworking vices have a fast-acting screw arrangement for the
rapid positioning of the movable jaw prior to clamping.
 Smaller vices have continuous screws and are light and easy to clamp on
a workbench or sawhorse.

Utility Vice

 Similar to a bench vice.
 Generally has jaws ranging in length from 3" to 6".
 Better models feature swivel bases so the vice may be turned to the
best angle for each particular job.
 Some utility vices either have cast-in pipe jaws or permit special
curved-face pipe jaws to be inserted between the regular jaws to add
versatility

Angle Vice

 Contains marked adjustments to permit clamping at different angles.
 Can also be adjusted to a flat position and used as a regular vice.
 Can be locked into any position with a thumb screw, and bolts can be
tightened for permanent positioning.

Clamp Vice

 Is a combination fixed and portable vice, featuring a bottom clamp for
easy attachment to workbenches, sawhorses or tables.
 The best choice for portable use.

Drill Press Vice

 Great for holding work piece still when drilling, tapping and reaming
on a drill press.
 Most models have grooves machined on both sides for mounting to machine
table.
 Used for 90-degree machining of side bodies

Vacuum Vice

 Light-duty vice that has a lever-operated suction cup on the bottom to
secure to tabletop or other work surface.
Pipe Vice
 This Has a vee shaped jaws to hold the outside diameter of the pipe
securely while threading or cutting off to length.
These can also come in different sorts of chains  which wrap around the
pipe and is locked in by a turning adjusting screw.
Many others for different applications. 



**
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
e-mail and delete the e-mail.

Any content of this message and its attachments which
does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
**



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Measuring Water Chemistry

[spiro]

yeah, understood, but was thinking of those litmus strips. Sorry.


On Tue, 22 May 2007, Don wrote:

> I agree with your post.  I have been doing this water thing for a few years 
> now.  Looked in to several things.  really haven't found any thing worth 
> while.  except a good eye ball..  Don
>  - Original Message -
>  From: M. Terblanche
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Monday, May 21, 2007 11:54 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Measuring Water Chemistry
>
>
>  Hi, not to be a damp cloth here, but this wont work. Water chemistry is
>  a precise science and require precise measurements. I researched this
>  for the last two years and haven't find a affordable tool that blind
>  pool owners can use. The only electronic instruments out there capable
>  of doing some of the required measurements are damn expensive, and don't
>  do all that's needed, so my personal advice is to understand your pool,
>  get the water 100% right, with sighted help, and then do the basics to
>  keep it well maintained. If the ph, alkalinity, stabilizer levels and
>  chloreen is right to start off with, you'll learn quickly what to do to
>  keep it there. If it is not in the right parameters to start with, and
>  you go about it the wrong way to fix it, you'll spend the whole year
>  keeping on adding all sorts of chemicals without ever getting it right,
>  so start off by reading everything you can get on how water chemistry
>  works, and why certain things need to be done certain ways.
>  I'll look if I can get good references to post to the list, but first
>  I'm off to work.
>  Cheers,
>  Matthys.
>
>  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>  >
>  > Hi,
>  > What we do with the larger windows for intake on those is put it against
>  > your hand or white paper. Or white, non shiney back drop.
>  > Maybe not as drastic a diff between red and black for wiring, but if it
>  > says something that is a darker combination, (my skin with a black wire
>  > gets me a maroon read out, and with a white wire gets me something really
>  > light)
>  > So you can dry and cup the test strip in your hand and see what it says.
>  > Thus with a
>  > color #1 known, you get read out A
>  > with color #2 you get read out B
>  > not a fine differentiation but at least an
>  > a or b
>  >
>  > On Sun, 20 May 2007, Steve wrote:
>  >
>  > > I thought about that, Rob, but my Cobolt one's aperture is too
>  > large. If the Brightec one is smaller, it might e possible.
>  > >
>  > > I'll try to get my hands on one of those and if it works, it would
>  > certainly be nice.
>  > >
>  > > - Original Message -
>  > > From: Rob Monitor
>  > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  > 
>  > > Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 5:18 PM
>  > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Measuring Water Chemistry
>  > >
>  > >
>  > > Hi, This just a question since I never owned a spa or a pool. These
>  > test strips that you use to test the water do they turn different
>  > colors and if so could you use a color identifier to do the
>  > testing???- Original Message -
>  > > From: Don
>  > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  > 
>  > > Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 5:12 PM
>  > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Measuring Water Chemistry
>  > >
>  > > If there is a really good way to do this as a blind person, I would
>  > sure like too know the answer. The short answer, get a sited person
>  > too look at the test strips. regards Don
>  > > - Original Message -
>  > > From: Steve
>  > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  > 
>  > > Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 1:30 PM
>  > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Measuring Water Chemistry
>  > >
>  > > Anybody know of a way to independently assess water chemistry in a
>  > spa or pool?
>  > >
>  > > Don't worry about what people think; they don't do it very often.
>  > >
>  > > Steve, K8SP
>  > >
>  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  > >
>  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  > >
>  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  > >
>  > >
>  > >
>  > >
>  > >
>  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  > >
>  > >
>  >
>  >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install a Basket Ball Hoop

[Victor Gouveia]

Hmmm, I stand corrected.  My apologies guys, I don't know why I thought 12 
feet was the standard height.

Must be on drugs or something.  Oh wait, I am on drugs.  Damn I hate being a 
diabetic.  Smile.

Victor Gouveia 



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.

[Art Rizzino]

Dan Have you looked in to precast modular cement steps?  I have not used them 
or know of anyone who has used them.
Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 1:26 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.


  Anyone ever poured a set of cement stairs? One future project for me 
  might be to rip out my front steps up to my porch. They are cement but in 
  pretty bad shape. Many people in the neighborhood have had their's 
  patched, but within a couple of years, they are in just as bad condition. 
  The patches just don't hold up. So, I was thinking about just starting 
  over.

  So, do you build a form that just has the sides and risers there, but no 
  treads so that you can use a float or trowel to smooth over the tread? If 
  so, doesn't the weight of the cement from the riser above force the cement 
  in the lower tread to overflow? Or is cement thick enough to resist the 
  pressure? Or, is this not how you do it at all?

  There are four steps up to my front porch. There are sloping cheek walls 
  on either side of the steps.

  I assume that the cement itself is not solid all the way threw to the 
  ground, but poured over rubble? Is that correct?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.

[GenePoole]

I suspect this is probably oversimplified, but I have heard that if you can 
frost a cake you can do cement work. What do yall think?
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 5:59 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.


  OK Dan,

  About troweling.

  I have three trowls I use, I will have to replace two next job if it is of 
any size, the third one is more commonly used for sticking mortar onto cement 
blocks or bricks. I will describe them.

  The mortar one is a flat steel plate roughly triangular in shape about 14 
inches long from heel to toe shaped more or less like a linin iron. The handle 
comes off the top surface toward the rear sticking back. It is useful for 
working down along the form to get voids and bubbles out of the cement but it 
also works well as a small float or to pat the surface to help work up the 
cream. This tool isn't often used by cement workers, more commonly by brick and 
block layers but because I have one I often use it with cement as well.

  The more commonly used trowel is a rectangular piece of steel with a handle 
welded to one surface. These come in different sizes too. Mine is out in the 
shed just now but I guess it is about 12 inches by four inches. With the handle 
right over the center it is pretty good for tamping but the edge can be worked 
under things like the form for stair risers and it can be used as a float to.

  Finally there is the edging tool. This is about 6 inches long and about two 
and a half wide maybe three. It is rolled down on one edge and the ends are 
gently turned up. there is a handle across the non-working surface and it is 
used sliding lengthways to form a round over on the edge of concrete. Another 
common edging tool is a similar dimension but with a square bar running the 
length of the middle of the working surface. This is often used to form an edge 
on mating ends of sidewalk slabs while the round-over is more usually used to 
form the edges of the sidewalk slabs or the leading edges of stair treads.

  Another tool I and many other cement workers use is a length of board about 
thirty to thirty-six inches long and approaching four inches wide, a length of 
2 by 4 will work fine but more usually one uses a bit of three quarter inch 
plywood, I am not sure why except maybe for the weight. You form a handle at 
right angles to one surface, usually people seem to form a "D" handle also of 
wood. This tool is usually the first one selected for tamping and screeding the 
surface flat. These seem to be home made tools, quite possibly there are 
commercial ones available but I have never seen one but I have seen many 
professional and amateur builders use them.

  Now in a big project the cement is first leveled with a bull float, a large 
flat think on a long arm handle. This is how they usually begin leveling 
something like a slab or basement floor, they may walk out on parts of it using 
plywood or something else to bear weight but usually they try not to do so. 
Once the slab begins to set up it is usual for commercial builders to get out 
on it with a power trowel which is something like a big floor polisher but with 
ceiling fan like paddles under it. Once the cement will hold a man without 
leaving significant prints this tool is worked over and over and over the floor 
along with gentle dampening which is how they get that wonderful smooth 
surface. It can be done by hand of course but it is murder on the back and 
knees and much slower.

  So, take your wooden trowel to firmly pat the concrete down and because of 
it's length to screed the surface reasonably level and flat by working it back 
and forth across the surface then take your rectangular trowel and similarly 
float it gently over the surface at first to get a feel for flat and level and 
as you work you will be polishing and bringing up the water with the light 
aggregate (the cream). this I always rather enjoy though it is murder on knees 
and back and hands.

  You may wish to repeat this step as the cement cures, it is remarkable how 
you can work up even more water when the surface feels really quite dry. That 
is often about the time to begin the edge treatment if you plan to do edge 
treatment, I recommend it as it really does add finish.

  Now for your sloping edges, if I understand you, this is an edge wall to the 
steps which begins ascending with a vertical face then slopes toward the middle 
for some distance before again ascending vertically. This would have to be 
formed up. It is nothing more than a design or decorative feature. One set of 
stairs I poured I formed up the sides thicker at top and bottom by applying a 
board top and bottom to the outside of the form which stepped it out about an 
inch for a height I think of four inches at the top and the bottom for 
decorative purposes mainly but to reinforce the side wall of the form. In your 
case it 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.

[Dale Leavens]

OK Dan,

About troweling.

I have three trowls I use, I will have to replace two next job if it is of any 
size, the third one is more commonly used for sticking mortar onto cement 
blocks or bricks. I will describe them.

The mortar one is a flat steel plate roughly triangular in shape about 14 
inches long from heel to toe shaped more or less like a linin iron. The handle 
comes off the top surface toward the rear sticking back. It is useful for 
working down along the form to get voids and bubbles out of the cement but it 
also works well as a small float or to pat the surface to help work up the 
cream. This tool isn't often used by cement workers, more commonly by brick and 
block layers but because I have one I often use it with cement as well.

The more commonly used trowel is a rectangular piece of steel with a handle 
welded to one surface. These come in different sizes too. Mine is out in the 
shed just now but I guess it is about 12 inches by four inches. With the handle 
right over the center it is pretty good for tamping but the edge can be worked 
under things like the form for stair risers and it can be used as a float to.

Finally there is the edging tool. This is about 6 inches long and about two and 
a half wide maybe three. It is rolled down on one edge and the ends are gently 
turned up. there is a handle across the non-working surface and it is used 
sliding lengthways to form a round over on the edge of concrete. Another common 
edging tool is a similar dimension but with a square bar running the length of 
the middle of the working surface. This is often used to form an edge on mating 
ends of sidewalk slabs while the round-over is more usually used to form the 
edges of the sidewalk slabs or the leading edges of stair treads.

Another tool I and many other cement workers use is a length of board about 
thirty to thirty-six inches long and approaching four inches wide, a length of 
2 by 4 will work fine but more usually one uses a bit of three quarter inch 
plywood, I am not sure why except maybe for the weight. You form a handle at 
right angles to one surface, usually people seem to form a "D" handle also of 
wood. This tool is usually the first one selected for tamping and screeding the 
surface flat. These seem to be home made tools, quite possibly there are 
commercial ones available but I have never seen one but I have seen many 
professional and amateur builders use them.

Now in a big project the cement is first leveled with a bull float, a large 
flat think on a long arm handle. This is how they usually begin leveling 
something like a slab or basement floor, they may walk out on parts of it using 
plywood or something else to bear weight but usually they try not to do so. 
Once the slab begins to set up it is usual for commercial builders to get out 
on it with a power trowel which is something like a big floor polisher but with 
ceiling fan like paddles under it. Once the cement will hold a man without 
leaving significant prints this tool is worked over and over and over the floor 
along with gentle dampening which is how they get that wonderful smooth 
surface. It can be done by hand of course but it is murder on the back and 
knees and much slower.

So, take your wooden trowel to firmly pat the concrete down and because of it's 
length to screed the surface reasonably level and flat by working it back and 
forth across the surface then take your rectangular trowel and similarly float 
it gently over the surface at first to get a feel for flat and level and as you 
work you will be polishing and bringing up the water with the light aggregate 
(the cream). this I always rather enjoy though it is murder on knees and back 
and hands.

You may wish to repeat this step as the cement cures, it is remarkable how you 
can work up even more water when the surface feels really quite dry. That is 
often about the time to begin the edge treatment if you plan to do edge 
treatment, I recommend it as it really does add finish.

Now for your sloping edges, if I understand you, this is an edge wall to the 
steps which begins ascending with a vertical face then slopes toward the middle 
for some distance before again ascending vertically. This would have to be 
formed up. It is nothing more than a design or decorative feature. One set of 
stairs I poured I formed up the sides thicker at top and bottom by applying a 
board top and bottom to the outside of the form which stepped it out about an 
inch for a height I think of four inches at the top and the bottom for 
decorative purposes mainly but to reinforce the side wall of the form. In your 
case it might also have been used to reduce the volume of cement required.

I am not so sure bricks are a good filler material. Bricks are usually fired 
clay and might disintegrate embedded in concrete but cement block and rock and 
boulders and old scrap steel all work well.

I suppose the old plywood box would ultimately rot and disappear I don't

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Re: [BlindHandyMan} article about wire:

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi Tom
I am in the process of making a winch mount to winch in my Van into the
back shed.
What I found was very little information on breaking strain on wire rope
from a large warehouse, that sold rope by the foot
So I decided to use my boat winch but needed to take of the old rope and
replace it with a larger diameter rope and also longer.
I used rope clamps and a shackle and bolted the support frame I made to
the floor this has a two inch square tube which is vertical  and then
bolted my winch at the height of the draw bar.
I replaced my jockey wheel with a ten inch wheel so it would run more
easily over  grass.
I am going to pull it in this time draw bar first but as soon as I get a
bumper bar made for the rear I am going to pull it in backwards.
This then will allow us to hook it straight up to the towing vehicle.
As this is over a ton the easier it is the better.
 
Regards
Ray
 
 



From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Fowle
Sent: Thursday, 24 May 2007 09:20
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: [BlindHandyMan} article about wire:



Hey Ray,
This was a great article, more than any of us need to know
about wire, very interesting

Everything I see on sail boats these days is stainless and so far as I
know
wire cored. Mostly swedge fittings although I know one guy with old
fashioned
ideas who uses spliced eyes in his standing rigging and does his own 
repairs him self with a rigging vice and a fid.

Thanks
tom



 

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[BlindHandyMan] Laying Down Natural Flagstone

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi All
Laying Down Natural Flagstone

Q. Building patio 16 feet x 20 feet with covered roof and need a procedure for 
laying down the natural flagstone. What is the best procedure?

A.There are a few options for flag patios. You can either set it on sand; 
limestone or trap rock screenings and leveling layer or set it in mortar. A lot
will depend on if you expect the ground to heave during freeze or thaw and the 
look that you want.
You will also have to decide if you want to use rectangular, square flag pieces 
or random and which type of flagstone you want to use. The softer sandstone
flag is the easiest to cut with a hammer and chisel, but be prepared for at 
least 20 percent will be wasted if you have not done this before. You could
also use a wet saw or worm driven saw to cut the pieces to the appropriate size 
and shape. If you are going to be using granite or shale, you should consider
using a saw for your cuts. They are too brittle to get an accurate cut with 
chisels unless very experienced.
First step in laying your patio is to excavate at least six inches and then 
compact the subsoil. Put in a leveling layer of screenings or sharp sand about
three inch deep and compact again. Depending on the thickness of the flag, you 
should add another layer of sand or screenings to allow for the stones to
be leveled if using the dry joint method or to create a base of concrete if 
mortar joints to be used.
For sand, dry joint, use a straight board or line from one edge of the patio to 
the opposite edge. This will be the level of the top of the stones. Remember
to add a slight slope away from your house for drainage if the patio is butting 
against it. Put each piece of stone in place and with a rubber mallet or
the handle of a hammer, push sand under each edge of the stone until it is 
level or even with the line. Continue laying stones, matching contours or edges
to allow a bit of space ¼-inch - ½-inch, between each stone. If using random, 
you can place large pieces first and then look thru the rest of the pieces
for something that matches the spaces or cut to fit. Rectangular, matching 
pieces to fit is usually a bit easier. In either case, try not to have joints
creating an "X" pattern where four stones match up in the same joint. The 
pieces tend not to lock together when this type of junction occurs.
 For mortar joints, you should pour a concrete pad that will allow at least 
¼-inch of mortar plus the depth of the paving pieces to the final grade. After
this pad has cured, you can mix small batches of mortar and using a straight 
board or string as your guide, set each piece of your patio in place. After
the patio has set up, you can use mortar as grout between the stones, sponging 
off excess before it sets up to keep things neater.
Seems like a long, drawn out process, but if you take things a step at a time, 
you should be able to create something that you will be able to proudly say
you did yourself.
Or
Crushed Rock a Great Choice for Outdoor Projects

For a wide variety of outdoor projects, from paths and parking areas to weed 
and fire control, gravel and crushed rock can be just what you need to get
the job done. There are a surprising number of options available, including 
many different sizes, colors and types of rock, so there's bound to be something
out there that's just right for whatever area you want to cover.

Buying Gravel

Gravel and crushed rock is available in small bags at many home centers, and in 
bulk through rock and masonry dealers, landscaping suppliers, nurseries,
concrete suppliers and other sources. Most bulk dealers have yards that are 
open to the public, so you can look at different types of gravel side by side
and compare.

Other than in the small bags, which are convenient for very small projects but 
cumbersome and prohibitively expensive for larger jobs, gravel and crushed
rock are sold by the cubic yard, often abbreviated to just "yard." One cubic 
yard is equal to the size of a cube 3 feet wide, 3 feet long, and 3 feet high,
or 27 cubic feet. Since it's pretty unlikely that you're going to need gravel 3 
feet thick, converting a cubic yard into actual coverage can be a little
confusing. To simplify things, the following chart shows approximately how much 
area one cubic yard will cover at different depths:

* 160 square feet at 2 inches deep
* 108 square feet at 3 inches deep
* 80 square feet at 4 inches deep
* 54 square feet at 6 inches deep

If you have a truck or a trailer, you can haul the rock yourself - the dealer 
will load it for you - and save the cost of delivery. For larger loads, you're
better off having the dealer just deliver it for you directly to your site. 
There is typically a small per-yard charge for delivery, which is often waived
if you buy a large enough amount. If your site is accessible, most dealers will 
also drop the rock off the truck so that it spreads out, rather than just
dumping it in a pile - an added benefit that can save you a

[BlindHandyMan] Monkey wrench

[Lee A. Stone]

Does anyone know where the name Monkey wrench came from? thanksLee



-- 
I'm pretending I'm pulling in a TROUT!  Am I doing it correctly??


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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[BlindHandyMan] Re: [BlindHandyMan} article about wire:

[Tom Fowle]

Hey Ray,
This was a great article, more than any of us need to know
about wire, very interesting

Everything I see on sail boats these days is stainless and so far as I know
wire cored.  Mostly swedge fittings although I know one guy with old fashioned
ideas who uses spliced eyes in his standing rigging and does his own 
repairs him self with a rigging vice and a fid.

Thanks
tom



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install a Basket Ball Hoop

[David Ferrin]

He's on the job again, good man.
David Ferrin
Personal Email Address
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: "Boyce, Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 6:16 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install a Basket Ball Hoop


Hi All
Improve your basketball skills at home with your own practice basketball
hoop. Here are instructions for installing the freestanding kind.

Instructions
Difficulty: Moderate

Steps
1

Step One
Choose a location near the surface you plan to use as the court.
Driveways and patios work well.
2

Step Two
Purchase a post-mount basketball goal kit from a sporting goods store,
home improvement center or lumberyard. The kit should include the
backboard, rim,
net, post mounting bracket and possibly the mounting post. (In some
cases you'll have to purchase the post separately. If so, obtain the
specifics for
the size of the post from the instructions provided with the goal kit.)
3

Step Three
Buy four 80-lb. bags of sack-crete (concrete) from a lumberyard.
4

Step Four
Dig a hole adjacent to the playing surface at least 36 inches deep and
18 inches in diameter.
5

Step Five
Place the base of the post into the hole. You'll need guide wires,
wooden bracing or a friend to help hold the post in a vertical position
while working.
Use a level to check its position often.
6

Step Six
Mix the sack-crete according to the instructions on the bags. (Remember
to keep the mix fairly dry. It will dry more quickly and will help
support the post
better as it dries.)
7

Step Seven
Fill the hole gently and evenly with the concrete mix to a level about 4
to 6 inches below ground level.
8

Step Eight
Allow cement to dry for at least 48 hours.
9

Step Nine
Fill the rest of the hole with dirt and pack it in tightly.
10

Step Ten
Attach the backboard to the post according to the instructions provided
with the goal kit, then mount the rim to the backboard.
11

Step Eleven
Hang the net and you're ready to play.

Tips & Warnings
List of 3 items
Mobile basketball hoops are a fantastic, less permanent alternative.
These units, which can be moved around on their wheeled bases, require
little assembly
and cost a bit more than standard poles.
Retractable poles are available; they allow easy adjustment of basket
height for different skill levels.
Some of the materials are fairly heavy and awkward. This is a project
that might be a good two-person job.
A key basketball court dimension for installation purposes is the
distance from the baseline to the face of the backboard.  In a setting
where sanction
play will occur the dimension from the baseline to the face of the
backboard will be 4'.  Obviously if your goal is to insert a pole type
basketball system
in a residential setting this option could significantly lessen the
playing area of the court.  As mentioned above 4' is the rule for
sanctioned play but
in a residential setting the closer you can get to this dimension
without significantly diminishing the playing area is preferred.

The basketball hoop height shall be 10' from the playing surface to the
top of the goal.

When evaluating a wall mount basketball system the main dimension
information necessary to select a system is the distance from the
baseline of the court
to the mounting wall plus 4'.  Most wall mount systems offered by
manufacturers are cut to order so this measurement is crucial in
selecting a wall mount
system.  Basketball-Goals.com offers three major manufacturers of wall
mount systems;
Draper ,
BPI
and
First Team .
Of the three manufacturers only First Team offers telescoping mounting
structures enabling them to be adjusted at time of installation.  Their
wall mount
systems mounting structures come in three different telescoping lengths
between
4 and 6 feet,
between
6 and 8 feet,
and between
8 and 10'.
Both BPI and Draper cut their wall mount mounting structures to the
exact size the customer requests.

Another key dimension for NBA/NCAA approved portable stanchion systems
is at least an 8' runnout.  This is the distance from the front of the
base of the
unit to the face of the backboard. For this reason only selected
stanchions meeting this criteria are acceptable for these purposes.
Basketball-Goals.com
offers
Spalding Hydra-Rb
Gared
and
Schelde
Models that meet these guidelines. If your facility does'nt conduct
sanction tournament play then check out our other less costly models
from
First Team,
Schutt,
Gared,
&
Spalding Hydra-Rib

**
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
e-mail and delete the e-mail.

Any content of this message and its attachments which
does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
must be taken not to have been sent or 

[BlindHandyMan] How To Install a Basket Ball Hoop

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi All
Improve your basketball skills at home with your own practice basketball
hoop. Here are instructions for installing the freestanding kind.

Instructions
Difficulty: Moderate

Steps
1

Step One
Choose a location near the surface you plan to use as the court.
Driveways and patios work well.
2

Step Two
Purchase a post-mount basketball goal kit from a sporting goods store,
home improvement center or lumberyard. The kit should include the
backboard, rim,
net, post mounting bracket and possibly the mounting post. (In some
cases you'll have to purchase the post separately. If so, obtain the
specifics for
the size of the post from the instructions provided with the goal kit.)
3

Step Three
Buy four 80-lb. bags of sack-crete (concrete) from a lumberyard.
4

Step Four
Dig a hole adjacent to the playing surface at least 36 inches deep and
18 inches in diameter.
5

Step Five
Place the base of the post into the hole. You'll need guide wires,
wooden bracing or a friend to help hold the post in a vertical position
while working.
Use a level to check its position often.
6

Step Six
Mix the sack-crete according to the instructions on the bags. (Remember
to keep the mix fairly dry. It will dry more quickly and will help
support the post
better as it dries.)
7

Step Seven
Fill the hole gently and evenly with the concrete mix to a level about 4
to 6 inches below ground level.
8

Step Eight
Allow cement to dry for at least 48 hours.
9

Step Nine
Fill the rest of the hole with dirt and pack it in tightly.
10

Step Ten
Attach the backboard to the post according to the instructions provided
with the goal kit, then mount the rim to the backboard.
11

Step Eleven
Hang the net and you're ready to play.

Tips & Warnings
List of 3 items
Mobile basketball hoops are a fantastic, less permanent alternative.
These units, which can be moved around on their wheeled bases, require
little assembly
and cost a bit more than standard poles.
Retractable poles are available; they allow easy adjustment of basket
height for different skill levels.
Some of the materials are fairly heavy and awkward. This is a project
that might be a good two-person job.
A key basketball court dimension for installation purposes is the
distance from the baseline to the face of the backboard.  In a setting
where sanction
play will occur the dimension from the baseline to the face of the
backboard will be 4'.  Obviously if your goal is to insert a pole type
basketball system
in a residential setting this option could significantly lessen the
playing area of the court.  As mentioned above 4' is the rule for
sanctioned play but
in a residential setting the closer you can get to this dimension
without significantly diminishing the playing area is preferred.

The basketball hoop height shall be 10' from the playing surface to the
top of the goal.

When evaluating a wall mount basketball system the main dimension
information necessary to select a system is the distance from the
baseline of the court
to the mounting wall plus 4'.  Most wall mount systems offered by
manufacturers are cut to order so this measurement is crucial in
selecting a wall mount
system.  Basketball-Goals.com offers three major manufacturers of wall
mount systems;
Draper ,
BPI
and
First Team .
Of the three manufacturers only First Team offers telescoping mounting
structures enabling them to be adjusted at time of installation.  Their
wall mount
systems mounting structures come in three different telescoping lengths
between
4 and 6 feet,
between
6 and 8 feet,
and between
8 and 10'.
Both BPI and Draper cut their wall mount mounting structures to the
exact size the customer requests.

Another key dimension for NBA/NCAA approved portable stanchion systems
is at least an 8' runnout.  This is the distance from the front of the
base of the
unit to the face of the backboard. For this reason only selected
stanchions meeting this criteria are acceptable for these purposes.
Basketball-Goals.com
offers
Spalding Hydra-Rb
Gared
and
Schelde
Models that meet these guidelines. If your facility does'nt conduct
sanction tournament play then check out our other less costly models
from
First Team,
Schutt,
Gared,
&
Spalding Hydra-Rib

**
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
e-mail and delete the e-mail.

Any content of this message and its attachments which
does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
**



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To

Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.

[William Stephan]

Dale, this is a keeper.

Dan, we used to rent conveyers and schutes for concrete work.  I think the 
conveyors wer 28 feet and the schutes in ten foot sections.  If you're going 
uphill, the conveyor might be worth thinking about if you're having the 
concrete delivered.


 Bill Stephan
Kansas City, MO
(816)803-2469
William Stephan


-Original Message-
.From: "Dale Leavens"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.Sent: 5/23/07 2:27:54 PM
.To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
.Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.
.
.Hi Dan,
.
.Mostly your assumptions are correct.
.
.I have poured steps both solid and hollow. I have never sloped the cheeks but 
I have considered sloping the risers back at the bottom as an alternative to 
making a nose overhang on the tread. This reduces the chance of chipping or 
cracking some of the nose off.
.
.When I poured a hollow set I just made a hollow box more or less like the 
stairs but allowing something like five or six inches space around all sides 
between the box and the inside finished form. Mostly I did that because I was 
mixing the cement with a small rented mixer and wanted to reduce the work by 
reducing the volume of cement I needed to make. I probably should have included 
some rebar at least in the landing and stair treads but I didn't and so far as 
I know they are still there since 1975.
.
.These outside basement stairs are solid I think there are 9 of them. I was 
able to use one inch factory grade plywood I bought locally for the forms 
heavily reinforced with 2 by 4 including cross bracing over the top and at 
intervals I pulled steel wire through the plywood form twisting it tight to 
keep it from spreading under the weight of the cement.
.
.You won't need forms quite that rigid but do not under estimate the weight and 
force of that weight when forming for concrete.
.
.When assembling the forms I try to join the members in such a way as they 
reinforce each other. That is, the form for the front of the riser nails to the 
edge of the side form to help reinforce the sides not spreading. If forming a 
nose on the step then a narrower board for the riser nailed through the side 
wall into the end of the riser then complete the height of the riser with 
another board nailed to the outer face of the riser and nailed into the edge of 
the side wall form so that there is an inch and a half or more space at the top 
of the riser to the top of this applied board to form the nose of the step. 
Bevel the top of the riser so you have half a chance of getting the darn thing 
out once the cement is cured. by nailing in this way you get nails at right 
angles to each other to help lock things tighter.
.
.Like I said, probably a better way is to lean the riser out on a slight angle 
so you don't have any potentially delicate edges to break off. You would be 
well to bevel the edges of those riser boards too so they don't leave an angled 
impression in the step below and you have a better reference for floating the 
step tread surface above. I don't think I have ever poured that way but I do 
remember a neighbour doing so. He also ran a board up the middle of the risers 
on edge with bracing fixed to the middle of the riser form boards to help keep 
them from bowing. 
.
.I think that pouring over rubble might pose some problems. It is not unusual 
to embed rubble such as boulders in concrete to make up volume though. Often it 
is added to the mix when you mix it yourself. It makes destroying the concrete 
a bear but each cubic foot of stone is a cubic foot of concrete you don't have 
to mix. You could add rubble as you pour making sure to work it well into the 
cement and keeping well away from the edges as you pour. Pouring directly over 
rubble though might result in an unstable mess with the portland draining 
through with the water and leaving the rest less consistent. There are people 
who could probably give you better advice about that.
.
.A mass like that shouldn't probably need any steel in it particularly if you 
have a truck deliver. Your particular situation may not lend itself well to 
that, depends on what sort of delivery is available. They have pretty long 
shoots on those trucks but yours is an up hill as well. The basement steps took 
nearly a truck load and one option was to have air added. I think they also add 
a detergent agent, the result is a more porous cement which is said to be 
better in frost conditions. They can also add fiber to the mix, I didn't have 
that but I did mix some with my brother-in-law for a cement floor in an animal 
shelter and we found that the fiber rose with the cream as we floated and 
troweled, something we didn't want the animals to be ingesting.I decided I 
didn't want to be shaving my stairs so I didn't include it.
.
.These days they can also deliver through a hose under pressure. I don't know 
if they expect you to wrestle with the hose though, the only time I ever saw it 
done it appeared to take much strength and not a

[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi Everyone
Torquata MJ-823
Circle Cutting Guide
Review

As the saying goes, there are many ways to skin a cat. Well, to be
honest, I'm not sure where that saying came from or what it was based
on. Regardless,
the saying remains true in terms of cutting circles in wood; there are
many ways to do it. You can either use a hand saw, a jigsaw, a bandsaw,
a router
or even a table saw, and I am sure there are even more ways too!
Naturally, some methods may require further sanding or work to bring the
cut piece to
a true circular shape.

When trying to cut a circle using a power tool or stationary machine
however, often a circle cutting jig is needed. These can be either shop
made, or commercially
purchased jigs. Having a need to cut a few circles myself recently for a
project, I grabbed a Torquata circle cutting guide to help assist with
the cutting
process.

Torquata Circle Cutting Guide
The Torquata guide is really a simple kit system, based pretty much on
the same adjustable pin system you could make yourself as a jig in the
workshop,
but if you are like me and prefer the commercial made jigs, then this
one is ready to use, and quite flexible, as it can be used on several
different machines,
whereas many shop-made designs might only be made for a specific tool
and cannot be readily converted for use on another. This particular
guide is designed
for use on stationary saws such as the bandsaw, radial arm saw and table
saw. I don't own a radial arm saw, so I tested it and based this review
on using
the jig on my bandsaw and table saw.

The Circle Cutter is designed to cut circles from 3 inches up to 4 feet
in diameter. If you want to cut larger circles, you will need to make
your own circle
cutting jig as this one reaches its limit at the 4 foot mark out of the
box.

Assembly is quick and painless, and basically involves tapping a few
connector pieces into the steel channel sections, and adding a hex nut
into one channel
to attach the pivot pin. A base clamp is also included, as are
instructions for assembling it, but mine came pre-assembled out of the
box, so setup time
was only about 5 minutes in total. A bag of assorted screws,
double-sided tape and other bits and pieces are included and used for
special mounting situations
(which I will outline shortly).

How Does It Work?
Long time woodworkers can probably figure out its operation just by
looking at the jig assembled. Everything is pretty straight forward
actually. I'll start
by explaining the process of cutting a circle out using the table saw
and the circle cutting jig.

Whoa! Hold your horses! Cutting a circle on a table saw! Are you crazy?
Despite some common "myths" (I guess you could call them), cutting
circles on a
table saw is indeed possible, and can be done safely too with the right
procedure and appropriate jig.

To set the jig up on the table saw, you firstly place the base clamp in
the miter slot of the saw, and align it with the arbor of the table saw.
The base
clamp fits into position via a hex head screw which screws outward from
the base clamps edge to lock in place against the edge of the miter
slot. It is
designed to fit standard 3/4" x 3/8" miter slots but there is some
tolerance either way for slightly smaller or wider miter slots. The main
channel (which
is the longer piece of channel) then slides into the groove in the top
of the base clamp, and is secured by two screw and washer assemblies on
either side
of the channel with the support arm channel (the shorter of the channel
lengths - which is actually made up of two joined channels) situated
close to the
blade. Perhaps one of my criticisms of the base clamp is that it can be
difficult to lock it firmly enough in place, as the adjustment screw
sits under
the clamp, and when mounted in the miter slot, the adjustment screw is
not really accessible. The best you can get is a solid friction fit, and
for most
tasks, this should suffice. However, if you have a couple of miter slot
stops which can be secured into the miter slot on either side of the
base clamp,
you can really lock the base clamp and jig into the slot very securely.

Now, depending on what diameter circle you wish to cut the procedure to
use with the jig differs. For circles up to 12" in diameter, the pivot
pin (located
in the main channel) is secured as close to the support arm channel as
possible and secured in place. The main channel then slides on the base
clamp left
or right (closer or further) from the blade to adjust the radius of the
circle being cut. For circles larger than 12" in diameter, the support
arm is moved
and positioned as close to the base clamp as possible (i.e. away from
the blade) and secured. The pivot pin is then moved along the main
channel to set
the desired radius for the jig. There are special support situations for
circles less than 6" in diameter (where a special nylon knob is attached
to the
workpiece to keep fingers away from the blade, and for circles larger
than 24" in diameter where a supp

Re: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!

[Max Robinson]

How do you make the IP address show in outlook express.  I knew once but 
have forgotten.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message - 
From: "Steve" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!


> Spiro,
>
> What you need to know is Paypal will never send a message like that to 
> you.
>
> Second, it is easy to spoof or fake an e-mail address.
>
> You can view the header of the message.  If you did, you'd notice that the 
> IP
> address was overseas mail.  There are sites where you can lookup a numeric 
> IP
> address and verify if it was truly from Paypal.  In this case, you would 
> notice
> that it is not.
>
> Steve
> Lansing, Mi
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 3:26 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!
>
>
> We have talked about fraud before, on list;  I think.
> I mention this for the awareness of other online shoppers and paypal
> users.
> Please read.
>
> I received an email
> from [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> The subject line was either "You have sent a payment" or "electronic funds
> transfer".
> it said I had just sent a given amoutn to an email.
> It said that if I didn't approve this transaction, to "click here".
> It stated that since I used my bank account that the funds were sent
> without delay.
> The rest of the email was as one would expect.
> Of course I flipped as I didn't recognize the email address and it didn't
> come close to any of the dozen I have used recently or regularly.
> So I logued in and checked my account, by typing the paypal into a new
> brouser window. The trans wasn't on my account.
> So I looked at a recent "electronic funds transfer" email from paypal and
> found this:
> First, the real email will say "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" as sender.
> Secondly it says "to view transaction details click here" and after that
> the two emails, real and fraudulent were exactly the same.
> So since it concerned me, a rather *jaded privacy and security freak! I
> figured I'd hopefully give valid warning to anyone wise enough to read
> this.
> sorry if it's concise, but I'm tight for time.
> Read it through, I think it's all there.
>
>
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.7/816 - Release Date: 5/23/2007 
> 3:59 PM
>
> 



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

[BlindHandyMan] building forms cement steps

[Lenny McHugh]

Dan,
There is one other thing that I just remembered. He always used scaffolding 
nails. These nails have two heads about 1/4" inch apart. The first is driven 
tight to hold the form together. When it is time to take down the forms the 
second head is easy to grab with a nail puller. 
Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.

[Dan Rossi]

Thanks guys.  I knew I could count on you.  This is a future project, so I 
have some time to learn and do some experimenting.

So Dale, I can build a hollow box and pour the steps over that?  Will the 
wood eventually rot and the concrete will be strong enough to maintain 
it's structure?

The side walls on my steps have this sloped section in the middle.  The 
walls are about 14 inches wide.  The walls have a flat spot at the top, a 
flat spot at the bottom, and this sloped section connecting the upper and 
lower plateau.  Will the concrete be stiff enough to maintain that sloped 
surface, or would that have to be covered with the form?

As far as the rubble.  So I can just throw in anything rock-like into the 
wet concrete?  Will cement blocks and old bricks be OK?  As long as it 
stays well away from the edges.

Now, here is the really nieve question.  When you talk about troweling and 
really working the trowel, what does that mean exactly?  Are you just 
moving the trowel back and forth smoothing over the surface?  Are you 
tapping and patting the surface as well as moving back and forth across 
it?  Are you plunging the edge of the trowel repeatedly into the surface 
to push down the aggregate and get the cream to float to the top?

I think I might try making a few stepping stones before I try my hand at 
anything larger.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!

[Dan Rossi]

I get messages like this all the time.  Typically they were pretty poor 
reproductions of PayPal or EBay emails, often with poor English or 
misspellings.  Recently, they have been getting better though.

I recently received a block of emails from buzcard.com saying that someone 
has sent me a buz card and I could retrieve it by clicking on the 
following link.  It showed the http://www.buzcard.com blah blah blah 
address.  The email was well crafted and looked pretty authentic.  I 
didn't believe it for a moment though.  Since I am on UNIX, I have the 
ability to click on the link, but before actually following the link, I 
can see and edit it.  Well, clicking on the link showed me that the 
actual URL was not buzcard.com.

I have also seen in some of the PayPal and EBay spoofs that the URL is 
something like something.ebay.com.

You can never be too careful.  I miss out on a lot of supposedly funny 
stuff because people will forward a link and say, click on this it is 
really funny.  No thanks.

  -- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!

[Steve]

Spiro,

What you need to know is Paypal will never send a message like that to you.

Second, it is easy to spoof or fake an e-mail address.

You can view the header of the message.  If you did, you'd notice that the IP 
address was overseas mail.  There are sites where you can lookup a numeric IP 
address and verify if it was truly from Paypal.  In this case, you would notice 
that it is not.

Steve
Lansing, Mi
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 3:26 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!


We have talked about fraud before, on list;  I think.
I mention this for the awareness of other online shoppers and paypal
users.
Please read.

I received an email
from [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The subject line was either "You have sent a payment" or "electronic funds
transfer".
it said I had just sent a given amoutn to an email.
It said that if I didn't approve this transaction, to "click here".
It stated that since I used my bank account that the funds were sent
without delay.
The rest of the email was as one would expect.
Of course I flipped as I didn't recognize the email address and it didn't
come close to any of the dozen I have used recently or regularly.
So I logued in and checked my account, by typing the paypal into a new
brouser window. The trans wasn't on my account.
So I looked at a recent "electronic funds transfer" email from paypal and
found this:
First, the real email will say "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" as sender.
Secondly it says "to view transaction details click here" and after that
the two emails, real and fraudulent were exactly the same.
So since it concerned me, a rather *jaded privacy and security freak! I
figured I'd hopefully give valid warning to anyone wise enough to read
this.
sorry if it's concise, but I'm tight for time.
Read it through, I think it's all there.





To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!

[cheetah]

hi when you get an email like this that you don't recognise you can 
forward the whole thing to

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

also if you get something that don't look right from ebay they have 
the same thing.
just use
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

jim
At 02:39 PM 5/23/2007, you wrote:


>I suppose that this is information that we need, so I say thank you.
>David Ferrin
>Personal Email Address
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>- Original Message -
>From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 3:26 PM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!
>
>We have talked about fraud before, on list; I think.
>I mention this for the awareness of other online shoppers and paypal
>users.
>Please read.
>
>I received an email
>from [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>The subject line was either "You have sent a payment" or "electronic funds
>transfer".
>it said I had just sent a given amoutn to an email.
>It said that if I didn't approve this transaction, to "click here".
>It stated that since I used my bank account that the funds were sent
>without delay.
>The rest of the email was as one would expect.
>Of course I flipped as I didn't recognize the email address and it didn't
>come close to any of the dozen I have used recently or regularly.
>So I logued in and checked my account, by typing the paypal into a new
>brouser window. The trans wasn't on my account.
>So I looked at a recent "electronic funds transfer" email from paypal and
>found this:
>First, the real email will say "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" as sender.
>Secondly it says "to view transaction details click here" and after that
>the two emails, real and fraudulent were exactly the same.
>So since it concerned me, a rather *jaded privacy and security freak! I
>figured I'd hopefully give valid warning to anyone wise enough to read
>this.
>sorry if it's concise, but I'm tight for time.
>Read it through, I think it's all there.
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.7/816 - Release Date: 
>5/23/2007 3:59 PM



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!

[Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press]

Aloha listers,
One of the clues is that any email from PayPal that is real will have 
your name in it,. I know this is off topic but I had to respond. The 
address to send such emails to is:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Betsy
At 09:26 AM 5/23/2007, you wrote:

>We have talked about fraud before, on list; I think.
>I mention this for the awareness of other online shoppers and paypal
>users.
>Please read.
>
>I received an email
>from [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>The subject line was either "You have sent a payment" or "electronic funds
>transfer".
>it said I had just sent a given amoutn to an email.
>It said that if I didn't approve this transaction, to "click here".
>It stated that since I used my bank account that the funds were sent
>without delay.
>The rest of the email was as one would expect.
>Of course I flipped as I didn't recognize the email address and it didn't
>come close to any of the dozen I have used recently or regularly.
>So I logued in and checked my account, by typing the paypal into a new
>brouser window. The trans wasn't on my account.
>So I looked at a recent "electronic funds transfer" email from paypal and
>found this:
>First, the real email will say "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" as sender.
>Secondly it says "to view transaction details click here" and after that
>the two emails, real and fraudulent were exactly the same.
>So since it concerned me, a rather *jaded privacy and security freak! I
>figured I'd hopefully give valid warning to anyone wise enough to read
>this.
>sorry if it's concise, but I'm tight for time.
>Read it through, I think it's all there.
>
>




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] regulation height of a basketball hoop

[Dale Leavens]

That sounds right. I remember us going to a lot of trouble to discover the 
regulation height remembering that this was before your vice president invented 
the Internet.



Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 1:36 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] regulation height of a basketball hoop


  According to multiple sources, after consulting google, the regulation 
  height of a basketball hoop is 10 feet to the top edge of the rim.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!

[David Ferrin]

I suppose that this is information that we need, so I say thank you.
David Ferrin
Personal Email Address
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 3:26 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!


We have talked about fraud before, on list;  I think.
I mention this for the awareness of other online shoppers and paypal 
users.
Please read.

I received an email
from [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The subject line was either "You have sent a payment" or "electronic funds 
transfer".
it said I had just sent a given amoutn to an email.
It said that if I didn't approve this transaction, to "click here".
It stated that since I used my bank account that the funds were sent 
without delay.
The rest of the email was as one would expect.
Of course I flipped as I didn't recognize the email address and it didn't 
come close to any of the dozen I have used recently or regularly.
So I logued in and checked my account, by typing the paypal into a new 
brouser window. The trans wasn't on my account.
So I looked at a recent "electronic funds transfer" email from paypal and 
found this:
First, the real email will say "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" as sender.
Secondly it says "to view transaction details click here" and after that 
the two emails, real and fraudulent were exactly the same.
So since it concerned me, a rather *jaded privacy and security freak! I 
figured I'd hopefully give valid warning to anyone wise enough to read 
this.
sorry if it's concise, but I'm tight for time.
Read it through, I think it's all there.




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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<*> Your email settings:
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(Yahoo! ID required)

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<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.

[Dale Leavens]

Hi Dan,

Mostly your assumptions are correct.

I have poured steps both solid and hollow. I have never sloped the cheeks but I 
have considered sloping the risers back at the bottom as an alternative to 
making a nose overhang on the tread. This reduces the chance of chipping or 
cracking some of the nose off.

When I poured a hollow set I just made a hollow box more or less like the 
stairs but allowing something like five or six inches space around all sides 
between the box and the inside finished form. Mostly I did that because I was 
mixing the cement with a small rented mixer and wanted to reduce the work by 
reducing the volume of cement I needed to make. I probably should have included 
some rebar at least in the landing and stair treads but I didn't and so far as 
I know they are still there since 1975.

These outside basement stairs are solid I think there are 9 of them. I was able 
to use one inch factory grade plywood I bought locally for the forms heavily 
reinforced with 2 by 4 including cross bracing over the top and at intervals I 
pulled steel wire through the plywood form twisting it tight to keep it from 
spreading under the weight of the cement.

You won't need forms quite that rigid but do not under estimate the weight and 
force of that weight when forming for concrete.

When assembling the forms I try to join the members in such a way as they 
reinforce each other. That is, the form for the front of the riser nails to the 
edge of the side form to help reinforce the sides not spreading. If forming a 
nose on the step then a narrower board for the riser nailed through the side 
wall into the end of the riser then complete the height of the riser with 
another board nailed to the outer face of the riser and nailed into the edge of 
the side wall form so that there is an inch and a half or more space at the top 
of the riser to the top of this applied board to form the nose of the step. 
Bevel the top of the riser so you have half a chance of getting the darn thing 
out once the cement is cured. by nailing in this way you get nails at right 
angles to each other to help lock things tighter.

Like I said, probably a better way is to lean the riser out on a slight angle 
so you don't have any potentially delicate edges to break off. You would be 
well to bevel the edges of those riser boards too so they don't leave an angled 
impression in the step below and you have a better reference for floating the 
step tread surface above. I don't think I have ever poured that way but I do 
remember a neighbour doing so. He also ran a board up the middle of the risers 
on edge with bracing fixed to the middle of the riser form boards to help keep 
them from bowing. 

I think that pouring over rubble might pose some problems. It is not unusual to 
embed rubble such as boulders in concrete to make up volume though. Often it is 
added to the mix when you mix it yourself. It makes destroying the concrete a 
bear but each cubic foot of stone is a cubic foot of concrete you don't have to 
mix. You could add rubble as you pour making sure to work it well into the 
cement and keeping well away from the edges as you pour. Pouring directly over 
rubble though might result in an unstable mess with the portland draining 
through with the water and leaving the rest less consistent. There are people 
who could probably give you better advice about that.

A mass like that shouldn't probably need any steel in it particularly if you 
have a truck deliver. Your particular situation may not lend itself well to 
that, depends on what sort of delivery is available. They have pretty long 
shoots on those trucks but yours is an up hill as well. The basement steps took 
nearly a truck load and one option was to have air added. I think they also add 
a detergent agent, the result is a more porous cement which is said to be 
better in frost conditions. They can also add fiber to the mix, I didn't have 
that but I did mix some with my brother-in-law for a cement floor in an animal 
shelter and we found that the fiber rose with the cream as we floated and 
troweled, something we didn't want the animals to be ingesting.I decided I 
didn't want to be shaving my stairs so I didn't include it.

These days they can also deliver through a hose under pressure. I don't know if 
they expect you to wrestle with the hose though, the only time I ever saw it 
done it appeared to take much strength and not a little skill.

With enough friends and enough beer you might barrow the cement into place.

As you fill the form the trick is to use a thin shovel or even a stick of 
plywood three or four inches wide to puddle the cement down into the form 
working along the walls and the back of the risers. this keeps the cement from 
forming voids and helps to distribute the cream for a nicer finish. To the 
extent you can, working the flat trowel back and forth along the wall just 
below the surface of the concrete as it is being poured can also hel

[BlindHandyMan] fraud is close to real, attention please!

[spiro]

We have talked about fraud before, on list;  I think.
I mention this for the awareness of other online shoppers and paypal 
users.
Please read.

I received an email
from [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The subject line was either "You have sent a payment" or "electronic funds 
transfer".
it said I had just sent a given amoutn to an email.
It said that if I didn't approve this transaction, to "click here".
It stated that since I used my bank account that the funds were sent 
without delay.
The rest of the email was as one would expect.
Of course I flipped as I didn't recognize the email address and it didn't 
come close to any of the dozen I have used recently or regularly.
So I logued in and checked my account, by typing the paypal into a new 
brouser window. The trans wasn't on my account.
So I looked at a recent "electronic funds transfer" email from paypal and 
found this:
First, the real email will say "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" as sender.
Secondly it says "to view transaction details click here" and after that 
the two emails, real and fraudulent were exactly the same.
So since it concerned me, a rather *jaded privacy and security freak! I 
figured I'd hopefully give valid warning to anyone wise enough to read 
this.
sorry if it's concise, but I'm tight for time.
Read it through, I think it's all there.



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.

[Lenny McHugh]

My late father-in-law was a plasterer, stone mason and cement finisher. He 
had a file box of recipes for different applications. There is one set of 
church steps in town that he patched about 25 years ago and they still are 
holding up.
Anyway I helped him a few times with steps. The one trick that I learned was 
to cut a 45 degree  along the bottom of the riser. That allows you to 
totally finish the top of each step. If you don't when you remove the forms 
you have a 1.5 " area along the back of each step to try and rub out.
The concrete is thick enough not to totally flow out from under each riser. 
Just make sure that the form is secured well enough. A few hundred pounds of 
wet cement can make an ugly mess if it gets away. He told me a few horror 
stories.
When we did my back steps he used 3/4" plywood for the sides and 2"x8" for 
the risers and countless 2"x4" side braces.
Lenny

- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Rossi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 1:26 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.


Anyone ever poured a set of cement stairs?  One future project for me
might be to rip out my front steps up to my porch.  They are cement but in
pretty bad shape.  Many people in the neighborhood have had their's
patched, but within a couple of years, they are in just as bad condition.
The patches just don't hold up.  So, I was thinking about just starting
over.

So, do you build a form that just has the sides and risers there, but no
treads so that you can use a float or trowel to smooth over the tread?  If
so, doesn't the weight of the cement from the riser above force the cement
in the lower tread to overflow?  Or is cement thick enough to resist the
pressure?  Or, is this not how you do it at all?

There are four steps up to my front porch.  There are sloping cheek walls
on either side of the steps.

I assume that the cement itself is not solid all the way threw to the
ground, but poured over rubble?  Is that correct?

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: (412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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Yahoo! Groups Links






To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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[BlindHandyMan] Emailing: Bosch aquastar 250 SX tankless water heater, Bosch aquastar 240 FX, Bosch 125FX, Bosch 125 HX, Bosch 125B, powerstar, powerstream, ariston.htm

[Rob Monitor]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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[BlindHandyMan] regulation height of a basketball hoop

[Dan Rossi]

According to multiple sources, after consulting google, the regulation 
height of a basketball hoop is 10 feet to the top edge of the rim.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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[BlindHandyMan] pouring cement stairs.

[Dan Rossi]

Anyone ever poured a set of cement stairs?  One future project for me 
might be to rip out my front steps up to my porch.  They are cement but in 
pretty bad shape.  Many people in the neighborhood have had their's 
patched, but within a couple of years, they are in just as bad condition. 
The patches just don't hold up.  So, I was thinking about just starting 
over.

So, do you build a form that just has the sides and risers there, but no 
treads so that you can use a float or trowel to smooth over the tread?  If 
so, doesn't the weight of the cement from the riser above force the cement 
in the lower tread to overflow?  Or is cement thick enough to resist the 
pressure?  Or, is this not how you do it at all?

There are four steps up to my front porch.  There are sloping cheek walls 
on either side of the steps.

I assume that the cement itself is not solid all the way threw to the 
ground, but poured over rubble?  Is that correct?

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
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<*> To change settings online go to:
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(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
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mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

Re: Installing basketball net [was] Re: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install an Exterior Light

[David Ferrin]

In the U.S. it's 10 feet I believe.
David Ferrin
Personal Email Address
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: "Victor Gouveia" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: Installing basketball net [was] Re: [BlindHandyMan] How To 
Install an Exterior Light


I think the regulation height is about 12 feet, isn't it?

Victor Gouveia



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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<*> Your email settings:
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<*> To change settings online go to:
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<*> To change settings via email:
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mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

Re: Installing basketball net [was] Re: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install an Exterior Light

[Victor Gouveia]

I think the regulation height is about 12 feet, isn't it?

Victor Gouveia


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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<*> Your email settings:
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<*> To change settings online go to:
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(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
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mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
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Re: Installing basketball net [was] Re: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install an Exterior Light

[David Ferrin]

Yes sir it sure does. I'm not doing it, this is just research for the files 
page and I thank you very much.
David Ferrin
Personal Email Address
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 12:50 PM
Subject: Installing basketball net [was] Re: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install 
an Exterior Light


Been there, done that.

You dig a hole about a cubic foot and make at least a 12 inch square form 
probably just a little below grade. You fill that with cement and set the 
lower half of the hollow pipe pole into it. Square the post up to vertical 
then begin filling it up with cement tamping it thoroughly. As you approach 
the top of the bottom half you fit the upper half and continue tamping 
cement until the entire post is filled and apply the cap.

Attaching the bracket to hold the basket and back board requires only 
installing two 'U' bolts.

If memory serves, regulation height is 10 feet 4 inches but that may be 
incorrect.

The net I have here has three adjustment heights. We adjusted it to be 
regulation height at full height to permit lowering it for service and the 
use of little kids.

This post has been up about 12 or 14 years now. Paint is beginning to flake 
off of it where the two lengths meed but otherwise it remains rigid.

Hope this helps.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: David Ferrin
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 11:38 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install an Exterior Light


  Ray, since we're on the subject of exterior installations how about 
finding
  something on installing a basket ball poll with a hoop for the kids.
  David Ferrin
  Personal Email Address
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Boyce, Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 11:58 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install an Exterior Light

  Hi Everyone
  Take some time to read the following tips and instructions on how to 
install
  outdoor wiring. These instructions can help you save time and effort, 
while
  ensuring a safe and satisfying installation. In this document you will 
find
  information about:

  * Basic Rules for Outdoor Lighting Installations
  * Weatherproof Switches and Outlets
  * Underground Installation From the House
  * Attaching Lighting Fixtures & Outlets to Buried Cable
  * Installing Post Lantern Yard Lights
  * Proper Grounding of Outdoor Fixtures
  * Installing Timer Switches in Outdoor Lighting

  BASIC RULES FOR OUTDOOR LIGHTING INSTALLATIONS

  * Your first step should be to check local codes regarding outdoor 
lighting.
  Be sure to follow these code requirements carefully.

  * Always use type UF cable for installations requiring underground wiring.
  The UF implies that there must be a fuse or breaker inside the house at 
the
  starting
  point of the underground wiring installation.

  * For your outdoor lighting project, use only those materials that have an
  Underwriter's Laboratory (UL) approval.

  * Cable used for underground installations must contain a grounding
  conductor. Outdoor fixtures must be grounded for complete safety.

  * Use conduit to protect the cable where it is exposed above ground and
  where bends are made below ground.

  * Some local codes may require you to cover the entire cable with conduit.

  * Many local codes now require outdoor circuits to be protected with GFIs,
  Ground Fault Interrupters. There are two basic types of GFIs. One is
  designed
  to be installed in a circuit breaker box. The other is designed to fit 
into
  outlet boxes. Check your local code.

  * Always bury any underground cable at least 18" deep, but 24" is
  preferable. Cables buried at least 24" deep are less likely to be bothered
  by spading
  forks and other tools commonly used around the yard.

  * For any outside wiring installation, always use weatherproof equipment,
  such as boxes, receptacles, etc.

  * Remember to shut off the electrical current at the main switch before
  starting any underground wiring tie-in.

  Conduit must be used to cover lead cable where it is exposed or where it
  bends underground.

  WEATHERPROOF SWITCHES AND OUTLETS

  * Weatherproof switches and outlet boxes are available in both flush-mount
  or surface-mount styles.

  * Figure shows a flush-mounted switch and a flush-mounted receptacle. 
These
  must always be installed in a weatherproof metal switch or outlet box.

  * Figure shows a surface-mounted switch and outlet. These are contained in
  their own weatherproof boxes and can be mounted directly to any flat
  surface.

  * Figure shows a weatherproof box. These boxes can be mounted on posts or
  conduit when you're installing any switch or receptacle, other than the
  surface-mounted
  type.

  * The flush-mounted 

Installing basketball net [was] Re: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install an Exterior Light

[Dale Leavens]

Been there, done that.

You dig a hole about a cubic foot and make at least a 12 inch square form 
probably just a little below grade. You fill that with cement and set the lower 
half of the hollow pipe pole into it. Square the post up to vertical then begin 
filling it up with cement tamping it thoroughly. As you approach the top of the 
bottom half you fit the upper half and continue tamping cement until the entire 
post is filled and apply the cap.

Attaching the bracket to hold the basket and back board requires only 
installing two 'U' bolts.

If memory serves, regulation height is 10 feet 4 inches but that may be 
incorrect.

The net I have here has three adjustment heights. We adjusted it to be 
regulation height at full height to permit lowering it for service and the use 
of little kids.

This post has been up about 12 or 14 years now. Paint is beginning to flake off 
of it where the two lengths meed but otherwise it remains rigid.

Hope this helps.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: David Ferrin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 11:38 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install an Exterior Light


  Ray, since we're on the subject of exterior installations how about finding 
  something on installing a basket ball poll with a hoop for the kids.
  David Ferrin
  Personal Email Address
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Boyce, Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 11:58 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install an Exterior Light

  Hi Everyone
  Take some time to read the following tips and instructions on how to install 
  outdoor wiring. These instructions can help you save time and effort, while
  ensuring a safe and satisfying installation. In this document you will find 
  information about:

  * Basic Rules for Outdoor Lighting Installations
  * Weatherproof Switches and Outlets
  * Underground Installation From the House
  * Attaching Lighting Fixtures & Outlets to Buried Cable
  * Installing Post Lantern Yard Lights
  * Proper Grounding of Outdoor Fixtures
  * Installing Timer Switches in Outdoor Lighting

  BASIC RULES FOR OUTDOOR LIGHTING INSTALLATIONS

  * Your first step should be to check local codes regarding outdoor lighting. 
  Be sure to follow these code requirements carefully.

  * Always use type UF cable for installations requiring underground wiring. 
  The UF implies that there must be a fuse or breaker inside the house at the 
  starting
  point of the underground wiring installation.

  * For your outdoor lighting project, use only those materials that have an 
  Underwriter's Laboratory (UL) approval.

  * Cable used for underground installations must contain a grounding 
  conductor. Outdoor fixtures must be grounded for complete safety.

  * Use conduit to protect the cable where it is exposed above ground and 
  where bends are made below ground.

  * Some local codes may require you to cover the entire cable with conduit.

  * Many local codes now require outdoor circuits to be protected with GFIs, 
  Ground Fault Interrupters. There are two basic types of GFIs. One is 
  designed
  to be installed in a circuit breaker box. The other is designed to fit into 
  outlet boxes. Check your local code.

  * Always bury any underground cable at least 18" deep, but 24" is 
  preferable. Cables buried at least 24" deep are less likely to be bothered 
  by spading
  forks and other tools commonly used around the yard.

  * For any outside wiring installation, always use weatherproof equipment, 
  such as boxes, receptacles, etc.

  * Remember to shut off the electrical current at the main switch before 
  starting any underground wiring tie-in.

  Conduit must be used to cover lead cable where it is exposed or where it 
  bends underground.

  WEATHERPROOF SWITCHES AND OUTLETS

  * Weatherproof switches and outlet boxes are available in both flush-mount 
  or surface-mount styles.

  * Figure shows a flush-mounted switch and a flush-mounted receptacle. These 
  must always be installed in a weatherproof metal switch or outlet box.

  * Figure shows a surface-mounted switch and outlet. These are contained in 
  their own weatherproof boxes and can be mounted directly to any flat 
  surface.

  * Figure shows a weatherproof box. These boxes can be mounted on posts or 
  conduit when you're installing any switch or receptacle, other than the 
  surface-mounted
  type.

  * The flush-mounted and surface-mounted switches and receptacles are 
  designed to be completely weather resistant when they are installed 
  correctly.

  Flush-Mounted Switch (on left) and Flush-Mounted Receptacle (on right)

  Surface-Mounted Switch (on left), Surface-Mounted Receptacle (on right).

  Weatherproof Box.

  UNDERGROUND INSTALLATION FROM THE HOUSE

  * Befor

Re: [BlindHandyMan] water heaters.

[Lee A. Stone]

Not to drag this subject line out forever but.  a long time ago on one 
of those home fix it shows. it was shown that by running the outside 
water supply, be it a well or street water thru many feet of pipe of any 
size . thru the basement prior to entering  any hot water heater, would 
end up over a couple of years paying for extra pipe because that water   
running thru many feet of pipe would warm more to room temp whatever 
that would be.. I am told the average temp of our street water is 
something between 53 and 57 degrees if that sounds correct. Lee



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install an Exterior Light

[David Ferrin]

Ray, since we're on the subject of exterior installations how about finding 
something on installing a basket ball poll with a hoop for the kids.
David Ferrin
Personal Email Address
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: "Boyce, Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 11:58 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How To Install an Exterior Light


Hi Everyone
Take some time to read the following tips and instructions on how to install 
outdoor wiring. These instructions can help you save time and effort, while
ensuring a safe and satisfying installation. In this document you will find 
information about:

* Basic Rules for Outdoor Lighting Installations
* Weatherproof Switches and Outlets
* Underground Installation From the House
* Attaching Lighting Fixtures & Outlets to Buried Cable
* Installing Post Lantern Yard Lights
* Proper Grounding of Outdoor Fixtures
* Installing Timer Switches in Outdoor Lighting

BASIC RULES FOR OUTDOOR LIGHTING INSTALLATIONS

* Your first step should be to check local codes regarding outdoor lighting. 
Be sure to follow these code requirements carefully.

* Always use type UF cable for installations requiring underground wiring. 
The UF implies that there must be a fuse or breaker inside the house at the 
starting
point of the underground wiring installation.

* For your outdoor lighting project, use only those materials that have an 
Underwriter's Laboratory (UL) approval.

* Cable used for underground installations must contain a grounding 
conductor. Outdoor fixtures must be grounded for complete safety.

* Use conduit to protect the cable where it is exposed above ground and 
where bends are made below ground.

* Some local codes may require you to cover the entire cable with conduit.

* Many local codes now require outdoor circuits to be protected with GFIs, 
Ground Fault Interrupters. There are two basic types of GFIs. One is 
designed
to be installed in a circuit breaker box. The other is designed to fit into 
outlet boxes. Check your local code.

* Always bury any underground cable at least 18" deep, but 24" is 
preferable. Cables buried at least 24" deep are less likely to be bothered 
by spading
forks and other tools commonly used around the yard.

* For any outside wiring installation, always use weatherproof equipment, 
such as boxes, receptacles, etc.

* Remember to shut off the electrical current at the main switch before 
starting any underground wiring tie-in.

Conduit must be used to cover lead cable where it is exposed or where it 
bends underground.

WEATHERPROOF SWITCHES AND OUTLETS

* Weatherproof switches and outlet boxes are available in both flush-mount 
or surface-mount styles.

* Figure shows a flush-mounted switch and a flush-mounted receptacle. These 
must always be installed in a weatherproof metal switch or outlet box.

* Figure shows a surface-mounted switch and outlet. These are contained in 
their own weatherproof boxes and can be mounted directly to any flat 
surface.

* Figure shows a weatherproof box. These boxes can be mounted on posts or 
conduit when you're installing any switch or receptacle, other than the 
surface-mounted
type.

* The flush-mounted and surface-mounted switches and receptacles are 
designed to be completely weather resistant when they are installed 
correctly.

Flush-Mounted Switch (on left) and Flush-Mounted Receptacle (on right)

Surface-Mounted Switch (on left), Surface-Mounted Receptacle (on right).

Weatherproof Box.

UNDERGROUND INSTALLATION FROM THE HOUSE

* Before you begin, shut off the electrical current at the main switch box.

* For an underground wiring installation, mount a breaker or a fuse box in a 
location similar to that illustrated. The breaker box should start the 
installation
no matter what type of cable you are using.

* Run conduit from the breaker box through the wall to where the 
weatherproof elbow will be mounted on the outside wall.

* Continue the conduit down from the weatherproof elbow to where it bends, 
18" to 24" below ground. Remember, conduit is generally required where the 
cable
bends underground.

* Mount the conduit to the building foundation with conduit connectors.

* Figure shows the components for wiring with conduits. (A) shows the 
conduit itself. (B) illustrates an adapter for attaching thin-walled conduit 
to rigid
conduit. (C) is a coupling for connecting two pieces of conduit. (D) shows 
the connector used for attaching a piece of conduit to a weatherproof box. 
(E)
is the pipe strap you should use to fasten the conduit to the wall about 
every 6' on exposed runs and about every 10' on concealed runs.

* Your local code may require that the entire underground cable be covered 
with conduit. The main purpose of the conduit is to protect the cable from 
spading
tools used in the yard.

* Figure shows a conduit bender and the proper method for inserting and 
bending thin-walled conduit. With care and practice, you will learn to bend 
conduit
easily.