RE: [BlindHandyMan] Blind Mechanics list

[David Engebretson]

It's actually a blank email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

 
sorry boot that!
 
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of robert moore
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 6:51 PM
To: Blind Handyman
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Blind Mechanics list



Blind Mechanics list
Try this link
You can subscribe by sending a blank email to:
blindmechanics@ 
soundandscience.com

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Don
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 10:38 PM
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] looking for group list

Not sure, but I think some of the car guys on this list, might have started
a auto repair list.. Regards Don
- Original Message -
From: Otis Blue
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]  ps.com
Cc: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 7:15 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] looking for group list

Hi everyone,

Could someone tell me if there's a blind auto mechanic group list or a
regular auto mechanic group list? If so, how can I join it?

Otis Blue
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  net

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] thermastat

[Jennifer Jackson]

So how hard is it to install a new thermostat?  Not anything fancy, just the 
basic model.  The one in my hallway was just knocked off for what appears to be 
the final time.  The case is broken and there are wires loose.  We are still 
getting air, but I am not sure it has any temperature set to it.

Also, why do people install them at shoulder height in the main hallway?


Jennifer


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cube within a cube.

[Victor Gouveia]

Hi Max,

What the hell is a cube within a cube, and what is it used for?

Sorry if I'm a bit naive, but I really don't know.

Victor Gouveia

[BlindHandyMan] magnetic recovery tool

[Lenny McHugh]

Hi All,
I had a fantastic magnetic recovery tool. this tool had a long thin magnet on 
the end of a fairly long spring. At the other end of the spring was a hollow 
threaded fitting. There is an extension rod that slipped inside of the spring 
and was screwed on the end of the spring for storage. When needed it was taken 
out and screwed on the end making a long  handle.
This evening I needed it to recover a dropped screw. Well, I remembered that I 
lent it to a friend and he has no idea where it is.
This tool is about 40 years old. Any ideas what the correct name is for it and 
where I can find a replacement?
My wife got the screw out using some gum and a long thin piece of scrap wood.

Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Blind Mechanics list

[robert moore]

Blind Mechanics list
Try this link
You can subscribe by sending a blank email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Don
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 10:38 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] looking for group list

Not sure, but I think some of the car guys on this list, might have started
a auto repair list.. Regards Don
- Original Message -
From: Otis Blue
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 7:15 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] looking for group list

Hi everyone,

Could someone tell me if there's a blind auto mechanic group list or a
regular auto mechanic group list? If so, how can I join it?

Otis Blue
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measures

[Loren Buntemeyer]

My tape measure was doing the same thing and I sent it back and there was no 
charge.  I had to pay for shipping there, but nothing back.  Now, it works 
great.

Loren
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 4:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measures


  My Cobalt talking tape measure is going to go back to England I think. 
  This weekend it was driving me crazy. It was actually giving consistently 
  wrong measurements. Then it would start giving me the crazy measurements 
  like 2792 inches. A battery change didn't seem to help it much. It also 
  has a loose connection from a drop, so often when I am trying to take a 
  measurement it will reset itself just by moving the case around.

  A hundred bucks for this is insane, but we don't have many options.

  TOM! TOM! TOM! What can we do? How much are encoder wheels these days?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] gas tank fill pipes

[Shane Hecker]

My parents had a cutlass that had the gas tank filler under the license plate 
in the back. I know it was a 1980's car, but don't remember what specific year.

Shane

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 8:48 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] gas tank fill pipes




  does anyone remember when Chevy and others had the gas tank fillup for 
  cars under the rear license plates? I'm thinking the late 60's but a 
  friend is saying it was much earlier.Lee

  -- 
  "A mind is a terrible thing to have leaking out your ears."
  -- The League of Sadistic Telepaths


   


--


  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.8/940 - Release Date: 8/6/2007 4:53 
PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measures

[Dale Leavens]

Bill,

It is correct.

A tape is pulled out of a case as in any other tape measure. The tape has holes 
in it, they are apparently counted as they pass a sensor, I suspect optical.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Gallik 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 8:54 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measures


  Exactly how do these talking tape measures function?

  Is there actually a "tape measure" that's drawn out of the case like any
  ordinary tape measure? If so I'd assume that the tape itself is somehow
  marked so the case can identify how much of the tape has been withdrawn, is
  this correct?
  
  Bill Gallik
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - "In our civilization, and under our republican form of government,
  intelligence is so highly honored that it is rewarded by exemption from the
  cares of office."
  - Ambrose Bierce



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measures

[Bill Gallik]

Exactly how do these talking tape measures function?

Is there actually a "tape measure" that's drawn out of the case like any
ordinary tape measure? If so I'd assume that the tape itself is somehow
marked so the case can identify how much of the tape has been withdrawn, is
this correct?

Bill Gallik
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
- "In our civilization, and under our republican form of government,
intelligence is so highly honored that it is rewarded by exemption from the
cares of office."
- Ambrose Bierce

[BlindHandyMan] Cube within a cube.

[Max Robinson]

The article in American Woodworker number 130 titled Cube within a cube on 
page 63 is something I'm actually going to try.   I already have an idea for 
an improvement to the method of fabrication.  There seems to be a problem 
with cutting away the last little bit of wood between the inner and outer 
cubes.  If you use wooden dowels a little smaller than the holes to support 
the inner cube I don't think this will be as critical an issue.  Place one 
underneath to take the down force of the bit on the inner cube and use two 
more on opposite sides to hold the inner cube from rotating as you drill the 
last of the wood fibers away.  It should make for much less cleaning up.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.

[Max Robinson]

What is the power source for this nailer?

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message - 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.


> Say Dan,
>
> Did you buy the nailer from a local store? Seems to me there wasn't enough 
> time to get it off the Web.
>
> How did the price compare?
>
> Your brother is a lucky fellow! While I don't have any immediate use for 
> that nailer I would love to own one. My wife doesn't have the faintest 
> idea why I have those urges (and a couple of others either).
>
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
>  - Original Message - 
>  From: Dan Rossi
>  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:49 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
>
>
>  I have been struggling with a summer cold for the last few days, but 
> still
>  managed to get some progress on the deck on Saturday.
>
>  The main support beam is now aloft, resting in notches atop four posts.
>  Total length of the beam is 205 inches. I didn't want to have to purchase
>  and transport 18 foot lengths of 2X10 so I built up the beam in four
>  over-lapping pieces. The splits landing at the middle of the notches on
>  posts 2 and 3. IE, I have a 2X10 that goes from post 1 to the middle of
>  post three, and a piece that goes from the middle of post three to the 
> end
>  of post four. Then a piece that goes from post 1 to the middle of post 2,
>  and a piece that goes from there to the end of post four.
>
>  All pieces were laid crown up and then a mess O nailing tied them
>  together. Since everything was crown up, the beam doesn't sit down into
>  the notches on posts 2 and 3. I ran a single bolt through posts 1 and 4,
>  and through the beam. This will keep the beam on top of the posts but
>  will allow the beam to sag into place as I weight it up with the rest of
>  the joists and framing. Then I will Run three bolts through each post and
>  beam joint.
>
>  Post five, which is out at the end of the ledger board which sticks out
>  beyond the back of the house by about 3.5 feet, is none too perfect. It
>  got cut short by an inch. I can go out and purchase a new six by six,
>  drag it up all the stairs, cut it, notch it, blah blah blah. Or, I could
>  cut a one inch thick shim to put in the notch that the end of the ledger
>  will sit on. I know what the right thing to do is, and if this had been
>  one of the four main supporting posts, I would have gotten a new six by
>  six. But I cut the shim.
>
>  I also purchased that Bostitch MCN 150 that Dale taunted me with. I've
>  promised it to my brother-in-law when I am done with it. I haven't tried
>  it out yet, but it looks very usable. You load it with 1.5 inch nails
>  that come in an angled strip, held together by paper. The points of the
>  first three nails are exposed and the tip of the first one is exposed
>  quite a bit, so you can actually fit the point of the nail into the hole
>  in the joist hangar and then shoot. It's going to make that part of the
>  deal a lot easier.
>
>  The guys doing all the brick work have ripped out all the bricks below 
> the
>  dining room window and relayed the bottom course for me. The doorway is
>  in place. Now I just need a door.
>
>  They had left there scaffolding there which came in handy at times, but I
>  had to remove the top section because I would have had to thread the
>  joists through the scaffolding and then disassemble the scaffolding 
> around
>  the joists.
>
>  So, the base structure, posts, beam, and ledger are done. Next weekend I
>  am pretty sure I will get the joists and blocking in place. Possibly even
>  the railing supports. Then I have to go purchase and lug up, the deck
>  boards. Then hopefully I can take a few days off work here and there and
>  do that part. I haven't settled on a railing design yet. Like everything
>  I do, the design I came up with in my head is rather difficult to pull
>  off. I will probably end up going with a simpler design just to get it
>  done so I can use the damn deck before it snows on it.
>
>  Well, just a heads up.
>
>  --
>  Blue skies.
>  Dan Rossi
>  Carnegie Mellon University.
>  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>  Tel: (412) 268-9081
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man

[BlindHandyMan] Shows this week

[Dale Leavens]

Would someone send me the shows Blind Handyman and Blind Like Me from this week 
please?

Mediafire doesn't like my browser cookie settings, I can understand why, 
several adde sites want to set cookies.

Thanks.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measures

[Rob Monitor]

HI, Just got my new talking tape from LSS PRODUCTS today... Well it seem to be 
built a lot better then the other one I got it feels a little smaller and just 
more sturdier. The buttons are little different but easy to learn. Have not 
dropped it yet so can't say how it will hold up to that.
ROB from Minnesota
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 4:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measures


  My Cobalt talking tape measure is going to go back to England I think. 
  This weekend it was driving me crazy. It was actually giving consistently 
  wrong measurements. Then it would start giving me the crazy measurements 
  like 2792 inches. A battery change didn't seem to help it much. It also 
  has a loose connection from a drop, so often when I am trying to take a 
  measurement it will reset itself just by moving the case around.

  A hundred bucks for this is insane, but we don't have many options.

  TOM! TOM! TOM! What can we do? How much are encoder wheels these days?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking tape measures

[Dan Rossi]

My Cobalt talking tape measure is going to go back to England I think. 
This weekend it was driving me crazy.  It was actually giving consistently 
wrong measurements.  Then it would start giving me the crazy measurements 
like 2792 inches.  A battery change didn't seem to help it much.  It also 
has a loose connection from a drop, so often when I am trying to take a 
measurement it will reset itself just by moving the case around.

A hundred bucks for this is insane, but we don't have many options.

TOM! TOM! TOM!  What can we do?  How much are encoder wheels these days?


-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081

[BlindHandyMan] Nissan repairs

[Lee A. Stone]

I know someone on this list told us they owned a Nissan. maybe a ZNissan 
quest. My question would be if  someone is able to  do any kind of 
service  on these type of veichles as a totally blind veichle. one more 
question . is there a web site that  devotes itself to the kind of newer   
car-truck-van not to buy? thanks.Lee



-- 
"A mind is a terrible thing to have leaking out your ears."
-- The League of Sadistic Telepaths

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.

[Dan Rossi]

Dale,

I got the joist nailer from Lowes.  It was about 40 bucks cheaper at Lowes 
than house of tools.  $219 U.S. at Lowes.

I would love to hang onto this tool, but I will only have limited use for 
it.  Tommy can get more use out of it and I can always borrow it back from 
him at any time.

  -- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.

[Dale Leavens]

Say Dan,

Did you buy the nailer from a local store? Seems to me there wasn't enough time 
to get it off the Web.

How did the price compare?

Your brother is a lucky fellow! While I don't have any immediate use for that 
nailer I would love to own one. My wife doesn't have the faintest idea why I 
have those urges (and a couple of others either).


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:49 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.


  I have been struggling with a summer cold for the last few days, but still 
  managed to get some progress on the deck on Saturday.

  The main support beam is now aloft, resting in notches atop four posts. 
  Total length of the beam is 205 inches. I didn't want to have to purchase 
  and transport 18 foot lengths of 2X10 so I built up the beam in four 
  over-lapping pieces. The splits landing at the middle of the notches on 
  posts 2 and 3. IE, I have a 2X10 that goes from post 1 to the middle of 
  post three, and a piece that goes from the middle of post three to the end 
  of post four. Then a piece that goes from post 1 to the middle of post 2, 
  and a piece that goes from there to the end of post four.

  All pieces were laid crown up and then a mess O nailing tied them 
  together. Since everything was crown up, the beam doesn't sit down into 
  the notches on posts 2 and 3. I ran a single bolt through posts 1 and 4, 
  and through the beam. This will keep the beam on top of the posts but 
  will allow the beam to sag into place as I weight it up with the rest of 
  the joists and framing. Then I will Run three bolts through each post and 
  beam joint.

  Post five, which is out at the end of the ledger board which sticks out 
  beyond the back of the house by about 3.5 feet, is none too perfect. It 
  got cut short by an inch. I can go out and purchase a new six by six, 
  drag it up all the stairs, cut it, notch it, blah blah blah. Or, I could 
  cut a one inch thick shim to put in the notch that the end of the ledger 
  will sit on. I know what the right thing to do is, and if this had been 
  one of the four main supporting posts, I would have gotten a new six by 
  six. But I cut the shim.

  I also purchased that Bostitch MCN 150 that Dale taunted me with. I've 
  promised it to my brother-in-law when I am done with it. I haven't tried 
  it out yet, but it looks very usable. You load it with 1.5 inch nails 
  that come in an angled strip, held together by paper. The points of the 
  first three nails are exposed and the tip of the first one is exposed 
  quite a bit, so you can actually fit the point of the nail into the hole 
  in the joist hangar and then shoot. It's going to make that part of the 
  deal a lot easier.

  The guys doing all the brick work have ripped out all the bricks below the 
  dining room window and relayed the bottom course for me. The doorway is 
  in place. Now I just need a door.

  They had left there scaffolding there which came in handy at times, but I 
  had to remove the top section because I would have had to thread the 
  joists through the scaffolding and then disassemble the scaffolding around 
  the joists.

  So, the base structure, posts, beam, and ledger are done. Next weekend I 
  am pretty sure I will get the joists and blocking in place. Possibly even 
  the railing supports. Then I have to go purchase and lug up, the deck 
  boards. Then hopefully I can take a few days off work here and there and 
  do that part. I haven't settled on a railing design yet. Like everything 
  I do, the design I came up with in my head is rather difficult to pull 
  off. I will probably end up going with a simpler design just to get it 
  done so I can use the damn deck before it snows on it.

  Well, just a heads up.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.

[Larry Stansifer]

Nicely done Dan...
My storage loft hasn't even made it out of the beer and
drawing stage yet.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan
Rossi
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 10:49 AM
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.


I have been struggling with a summer cold for the last few
days, but still 
managed to get some progress on the deck on Saturday.

The main support beam is now aloft, resting in notches atop
four posts. 
Total length of the beam is 205 inches.  I didn't want to
have to purchase 
and transport 18 foot lengths of 2X10 so I built up the beam
in four 
over-lapping pieces.  The splits landing at the middle of
the notches on 
posts 2 and 3.  IE, I have a 2X10 that goes from post 1 to
the middle of 
post three, and a piece that goes from the middle of post
three to the end 
of post four.  Then a piece that goes from post 1 to the
middle of post 2, 
and a piece that goes from there to the end of post four.

All pieces were laid crown up and then a mess O nailing tied
them 
together.  Since everything was crown up, the beam doesn't
sit down into 
the notches on posts 2 and 3.  I ran a single bolt through
posts 1 and 4, 
and through the beam.  This will keep the beam on top of the
posts but 
will allow the beam to sag into place as I weight it up with
the rest of 
the joists and framing.  Then I will Run three bolts through
each post and 
beam joint.

Post five, which is out at the end of the ledger board which
sticks out 
beyond the back of the house by about 3.5 feet, is none too
perfect.  It 
got cut short by an inch.  I can go out and purchase a new
six by six, 
drag it up all the stairs, cut it, notch it, blah blah blah.
Or, I could 
cut a one inch thick shim to put in the notch that the end
of the ledger 
will sit on.  I know what the right thing to do is, and if
this had been 
one of the four main supporting posts, I would have gotten a
new six by 
six.  But I cut the shim.

I also purchased that Bostitch MCN 150 that Dale taunted me
with.  I've 
promised it to my brother-in-law when I am done with it.  I
haven't tried 
it out yet, but it looks very usable.  You load it with 1.5
inch nails 
that come in an angled strip, held together by paper.  The
points of the 
first three nails are exposed and the tip of the first one
is exposed 
quite a bit, so you can actually fit the point of the nail
into the hole 
in the joist hangar and then shoot.  It's going to make that
part of the 
deal a lot easier.

The guys doing all the brick work have ripped out all the
bricks below the 
dining room window and relayed the bottom course for me.
The doorway is 
in place.  Now I just need a door.

They had left there scaffolding there which came in handy at
times, but I 
had to remove the top section because I would have had to
thread the 
joists through the scaffolding and then disassemble the
scaffolding around 
the joists.

So, the base structure, posts, beam, and ledger are done.
Next weekend I 
am pretty sure I will get the joists and blocking in place.
Possibly even 
the railing supports.  Then I have to go purchase and lug
up, the deck 
boards.  Then hopefully I can take a few days off work here
and there and 
do that part.  I haven't settled on a railing design yet.
Like everything 
I do, the design I came up with in my head is rather
difficult to pull 
off.  I will probably end up going with a simpler design
just to get it 
done so I can use the damn deck before it snows on it.

Well, just a heads up.

  --
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions
>From Various List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then
visit the following address for more information:
http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-
users.com

For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the
Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to:
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Yahoo! Groups Links





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70a2ccf1&c=f
--
END-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.

[Lee A. Stone]

I like the idea you are using  maybe some carriage bolts Dan not sure  
what it is called but when we did the decks we bought a long shank drill 
bit  which in  the end had a screw type starter and then the flat 
cutting blade for the size carriage bolts. do not rush  the project for 
winter. get David over there from Johnstown to  help you cut some 2 by 
6's for that top rail and  router or belt sand the edges. Cut back on 
the beer for this job and wait until all done to kick back and enjoy a 
cold one or two. Lee



-- 
"A mind is a terrible thing to have leaking out your ears."
-- The League of Sadistic Telepaths

Re: [BlindHandyMan] new fire pit

[Lee A. Stone]

Clifford, well now, a back hoe attack ? probably no firepit would be 
backhoe proof. I'll have the Mrs. check again the dimensions of that 
metal unit and maybe if it fits on our current   concrete slab  that 
might be the way to go. problem is  I want to save those old  
cinderblocks behind the shed" just in case we need them of course"   
back there I have some rolled chicken wire and nice  metal poles at one 
time used for a chain link fence. before my pain in the  tail neighbor 
passed he had said several times thit looked like  back there . so I 
just politely suggested he tried being blind .Lee



-- 
"A mind is a terrible thing to have leaking out your ears."
-- The League of Sadistic Telepaths

Re: An anecdote; [BlindHandyMan] gas tank fill pipes

[Lee A. Stone]

Let that woman not feel bad about the rust hole fill up Dale. We had a 
blonde male  neighbor who in the later 70's put the gas  on a slow feed 
while they still as you say , wash the windows and check the oil. all 
that gas was in the parking lot of a Shell station. it was found out 
later that the fill  pipe was somehow disconnect from the  gas tank. 
thank  God  gas at that time was something like 49 cents a gallon.Lee



-- 
"A mind is a terrible thing to have leaking out your ears."
-- The League of Sadistic Telepaths

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Your thoughts on saving money while driving a car-truck-van

[Lee A. Stone]

Cy, you are correct at loading up that roof rack. when we did more 
family camping we had one of those   I call" hamburger " box's  we 
bought used and it was a Sears product. it held all the  tents, sleeping 
bags, etc.   it mounted so there was an air flow under and  over it. Lee



-- 
"A mind is a terrible thing to have leaking out your ears."
-- The League of Sadistic Telepaths

[BlindHandyMan] Deck update.

[Dan Rossi]

I have been struggling with a summer cold for the last few days, but still 
managed to get some progress on the deck on Saturday.

The main support beam is now aloft, resting in notches atop four posts. 
Total length of the beam is 205 inches.  I didn't want to have to purchase 
and transport 18 foot lengths of 2X10 so I built up the beam in four 
over-lapping pieces.  The splits landing at the middle of the notches on 
posts 2 and 3.  IE, I have a 2X10 that goes from post 1 to the middle of 
post three, and a piece that goes from the middle of post three to the end 
of post four.  Then a piece that goes from post 1 to the middle of post 2, 
and a piece that goes from there to the end of post four.

All pieces were laid crown up and then a mess O nailing tied them 
together.  Since everything was crown up, the beam doesn't sit down into 
the notches on posts 2 and 3.  I ran a single bolt through posts 1 and 4, 
and through the beam.  This will keep the beam on top of the posts but 
will allow the beam to sag into place as I weight it up with the rest of 
the joists and framing.  Then I will Run three bolts through each post and 
beam joint.

Post five, which is out at the end of the ledger board which sticks out 
beyond the back of the house by about 3.5 feet, is none too perfect.  It 
got cut short by an inch.  I can go out and purchase a new six by six, 
drag it up all the stairs, cut it, notch it, blah blah blah.  Or, I could 
cut a one inch thick shim to put in the notch that the end of the ledger 
will sit on.  I know what the right thing to do is, and if this had been 
one of the four main supporting posts, I would have gotten a new six by 
six.  But I cut the shim.

I also purchased that Bostitch MCN 150 that Dale taunted me with.  I've 
promised it to my brother-in-law when I am done with it.  I haven't tried 
it out yet, but it looks very usable.  You load it with 1.5 inch nails 
that come in an angled strip, held together by paper.  The points of the 
first three nails are exposed and the tip of the first one is exposed 
quite a bit, so you can actually fit the point of the nail into the hole 
in the joist hangar and then shoot.  It's going to make that part of the 
deal a lot easier.

The guys doing all the brick work have ripped out all the bricks below the 
dining room window and relayed the bottom course for me.  The doorway is 
in place.  Now I just need a door.

They had left there scaffolding there which came in handy at times, but I 
had to remove the top section because I would have had to thread the 
joists through the scaffolding and then disassemble the scaffolding around 
the joists.

So, the base structure, posts, beam, and ledger are done.  Next weekend I 
am pretty sure I will get the joists and blocking in place.  Possibly even 
the railing supports.  Then I have to go purchase and lug up, the deck 
boards.  Then hopefully I can take a few days off work here and there and 
do that part.  I haven't settled on a railing design yet.  Like everything 
I do, the design I came up with in my head is rather difficult to pull 
off.  I will probably end up going with a simpler design just to get it 
done so I can use the damn deck before it snows on it.

Well, just a heads up.

  --
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081

[BlindHandyMan] new fire pit

[cliffwilson]

Dear Lee:
I constructed an outdoor incinerator 
which 
was 
 on a concrete slab, but above ground.  I used fire brick for the walls, and 
until it was struck with a backhoe, it held up nicely.  These fire bricks were 
solid, and therefore there were no places for water to collect and then freeze. 
 The fire brick hold up well to heat, unlike block and concrete.
An all steel unit might work well, but you would need to make sure that it 
would be protected from water and moisture from the soil, or you would end up 
with a lot of rust.

Yours Truly,

Clifford Wilson 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Building an outdoor fire pit

[Lee A. Stone]

 About 5 years ago our family built an outdoor fire pit. first by 
piouring a concrete slab four inches thick  I think this slab is about 
four feet by six feet. the rreason for that we learned  as Scouters 
about fire traveling underground via the rizones. I think.  Okay here is 
the problem.  we used standard cinderblocks for the actuall fire pit 
with a small hole in the back for air to come thru. Now keep in mind we 
have seen these type of firepits in state parks. the problem has occured 
that many cracks have appeared both along our cement  lines between the 
blocks and in a few of the cinder/ concrete blocks.
 this fall we will build a new one and I am looking for ideas.  the 
other side of this family for 32 years has found a fire pit at Walmart. 
apparently a heavy guage  stell  and that fire pit sold for $250 and can 
now be bought for $100 as they prepare for inventory. any suggestions 
would be appreciated. thanks. Lee



-- 
"A mind is a terrible thing to have leaking out your ears."
-- The League of Sadistic Telepaths

[BlindHandyMan] Anatomy of a Gas Tank Water Heater

[Ray Boyce]

Components of the Gas Hot Water Heater
The standard "tank type" water heater is found in most homes and with just a 
little maintenance, provides years of trouble free operation. Unlike
tankless water heaters
which have no storage stank, the tank type water heater heats cold water and 
stores the hot water until it is needed. This tutorial will give you a clear
understanding of the components which make up the tank type gas water 
heater.

The gas water heater works by a law of physics called convection which 
loosely paraphrased, states that heat rises. Now please don't run off just 
because
I said "physics". Heat rising and convection is a simple rule that you live 
with everyday and a hot water tank is no exception. Cold water is supplied
to the tank and injected at the bottom of the tank through a dip tube. The 
denser cold water stays there and is heated by the gas burner. As the water
heats up, it naturally rises (physics again...) and is drawn off by the hot 
water discharge pipe.
You'll notice in the diagram above that the hot water
pipe is much shorter than the cold water pipe. This ensures that only the 
hottest water is being used from the tank. The hot water heater has simple 
parts
and some safety features.

Let's take a look at each major component of the hot water tank.

1. Gas Hot Water Heater Anatomy
2. Water Supply and Discharge
3. Tank Construction
4. Gas Burner Control and Burner Assembly
5. Exhaust Flue
6. Pressure Relief Valve
7. Drain Valve
Water Supply and Discharge
Cold Water Supply
Cold water is provided to the tank by a cold water supply line and 
controlled by a shutoff valve. It is important to know where the water 
supply shut off
valve is located so maintenance can be performed on the tank.

Hot Water Discharge
This is the business end of the hot water heater and the hot water line is 
what supplies all your sinks, tubs, showers and appliance needing hot water.
Construction of the Hot Water Tank
The tank jacket itself is made of steel and encloses a pressure tested water 
storage tank. Between the storage tank and the tank jacket is insulation to
reduce heat loss of the heated water. It is a good idea to supplement the 
insulation by adding a
fiberglass insulation tank jacket
to the outside of the hot water heater. These are inexpensive and easy to 
install.

Inside the tank you will see a dip tube. The dip tube is where the cold 
water supply enters the tank to be heated by the gas burner. Since cold air 
and
cold water is denser than hot air or hot water, the cold water sets at the 
bottom of the tank until it is warmed by the burner and heated enough to 
rise
(through convection) to the top of the tank where the hot water hangs out.
tank, usually magnesium or aluminum) called a
sacrificial anode.
The anode rod is bolted and fastened to the top of the tank and extends deep 
into the tank. It's purpose is to draw corrosion to itself instead of the 
metal
tank. Some models do not have a separate anode but combine the function of 
the anode with the hot outlet. Plastic lines tanks do not have an anode
Gas Burner Control Module
The natural gas or propane is supplied by a pipe having its own gas shutoff 
valve. Just like you need to know where the water supply shutoff valve is 
located,
you need to know where the gas line shutoff is located too. The gas line 
fees into a gas burner control module that serves as a kind of thermostat 
for
the water heater. It also controls the ignition of the
pilot light.

>From the control module we now proceed to the gas burner assembly. This 
includes the
pilot light
and gas burner itself. The pilot light and burner adjustment are key to 
proper and energy efficient operation of the water heater. The gas flame 
should
about 1/2 inch in height and should have blue tips.
Gas Combustion Exhaust Flue
The exhaust flue serves two purposes. It exhausts combustion gasses from the 
burner and it serves as a type of heat exchanger helping to heat the water
in the storage tank. The flue must be properly exhausted to the outside and 
there are specific code requirements for the type of flue construction and
acceptable details.
Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve
A safety feature of the hot water heater includes the pressure relief valve 
and discharge pipe. It operates like the radiator cap on your car. The 
purpose
of this valve is to relieve excessive temperature or pressure build up 
inside the tank if it approaches the limits of the tank's safe design range. 
This
valve is located on top of the tank and often is threaded directly into the 
tank top itself. To test the valve lift up on the handle slightly and hot 
water
should discharge out of the overflow pipe.
Tank Drain Valve
The hot water tank can build up sediments in the bottom of the tank if left 
unmaintained and by draining the tank using the tank drain valve these 
sediments
cannot build up. And if you don't have sedimentation then that helps to 
prolong the life of your tank and improve you

[BlindHandyMan] Miter Saw Explained plus Miter Saw Review.

[Ray Boyce]

When you need to make a precise, compound angle cut on the end of a piece of 
stock, few tools are as easy to use as a compound miter saw. A compound 
miter
saw is basically nothing more than a circular saw placed on the end of a 
lever. The stock is placed on a flat base against a fence, and the saw is 
lowered
into the stock. However, the ability to precisely angle and bevel the saw 
before cutting into the wood gives the compound miter saw its versatility.
The Miter Gauge: A compound miter saw can be angled up to 45-degrees either 
to the left or right. A quality compound miter saw should have a clearly 
marked
miter gauge (which can be easily adjusted when necessary), and hard stops at 
0, 15, 22.5, 30 and 45-degrees in both directions. The woodworker should 
also
be able to lock the saw to any specific miter angle they need.
The Bevel: The "compound" part of the name comes from the saw's ability to 
tilt the saw in addition to setting the miter angle. Some saws will only 
bevel
in one direction where others will bevel up to 45-degrees either left or 
right. This is especially helpful when the woodworker needs to cut two 
angles
on the same cut. Installing crown molding, for instance, becomes a much 
simpler procedure when two precise angles can be cut at the same time.

10" or 12" blade models. Most users find the 10" model perfectly adequate, 
as the 8" is just not large
enough to cut angles on a 6" piece of stock on a 45-degree miter, nor tall 
enough to accommodate the stock on edge. Conversely, a 12" model may be a 
bit
exorbitant price-wise. However, if you can afford a quality 12" model, 
you'll definitely appreciate the larger blade size.
Sliding Compound Miter Saws: Some miter saws have an additional slide 
feature where, after sinking the saw into the material, the blade may be 
pushed or
pulled through the wood, allowing the woodworker to cut larger pieces of 
stock than would be otherwise possible. The additional motion gives this 
type
of saw a radial-arm feel. While this is a very handy feature, it can add 
considerably to the price of the saw.
A Handy Option: Some companies sell a laser light that can be installed onto 
your miter saw that will show exactly where the saw will cut. This takes any
guess work out of cutting compound angles. Simply mark the spot for the cut, 
set the miter and bevel, place the stock firmly against the fence, line up
the mark with the laser line and make the cut. It couldn't be any easier.
Except if you are blind , then the laser line is no use.
Miter Saw Review.
Craftsman Professional Laser Trac 12-inch Compound Miter Saw Review
The Craftsman Professional Laser Trac 12-inch Compound Miter Saw was a very 
pleasant surprise to work with. This woodworking tool comes with numerous 
extras
that are optional accessories on most of its competitors. The saw cuts 
compound angles cleanly and accurately, is easy to adjust between cuts and 
can saw
quickly through 2x8s and 4x4s at a 90-degree angle. The fact that the price, 
including extras, is about a hundred dollars less than many comparable 
competitor's
models only makes this saw an even better value. This is one tool that would 
be very productive in my shop.
Pros
. Includes numerous extras, such as extension bars, roller support, 
crown-molding stop and more
. 15-amp motor is strong enough to cut heavy, dense hardwood stock with ease
. Includes zero clearance throat plate and stop for cutting crown molding
. Also includes Laser Trac guide to assist in lining up cuts
Cons
. Trigger is quite touchy - be sure to fully depress trigger when saw is in 
use
. Blade guard could use slatted perforations all the way up to help sighting 
cuts

Description
. As laser line is hard to see when working outdoors, added slots in blade 
guard to improve sight lines would be welcome
. Roller support has one height adjustment - a second height adjustment 
would add stability
. Fitted with a 2-1/2" dust collection port - can be used with dust bag 
(included) or woodworking vacuum

My initial impression of the Craftsman Professional Laser Trac 12-inch 
Compound Miter Saw 21235 was one of a solid-looking tool with a lot of 
extras for
a decent price. Looking at all of those extras, my first concern was that 
the extras were going to mask some serious deficiencies with the tool.

It didn't take long for that concern to be forgotten. The model 21235 is a 
very hearty woodworking tool. It handled every cut that I threw at it with 
ease,
accurately and without a difficult setup.

That isn't to say that the saw can't be improved. In my opinion, there are 
two things I'd like to see addressed:

The trigger works fine as long as you remember to fully depress it for every 
cut. Unfortunately, I have worked with another miter saw for so long, and I
had developed the bad habit of not squeezing the trigger fully on every cut. 
As a result, when working with this unit, I often didn't notice that I was
only depressing the trigger part of the way.