RE: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight

[Larry Stansifer]

And we are lucky to get more than about 12% humidity most of the year.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 8:38 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight


This is an indoor loft. He is screwing plywood down onto 2 by 10 joists!

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Ron Yearns 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 8:42 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight


  Ah did I hear someone say something about using drywall screws on this
deck? One should only use the proper coated deck screws for treated lumber
or galvanized. Even the old c c a takes a different head and coating than
the newer c b a lumber. Anyway dry wall screws used on even redwood will
rust real quick as they have no coating.
  Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 2:48 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight

  one could drill through the bottom leaf, with the intended bit, and have a

  bit guide. fully centered. Place that angle on a larger square of metal, 
  affix it as you like,weld, solder, pox, drill through again; and you can 
  pop pop your pilots all over those boards.
  The dry wall screws are a great idea as well.
  They seem to have a great amount of strength for their size, and cut well;

  so you don't have to drill quite as deep.
  1.75 for 3/4.

  On Sat, 12 Jan 2008, David W Wood wrote:

  > A simple way is to use a simple 90 degree angle bracket, about an inch
wide
  > with, say, 2 inch leaves.
  >
  > if you place this on the surface of the work piece, then you can use it
to
  > true the drill bit by firming it into the concave angle of the bracket.
  > simple, rough but effective.
  >
  > David
  >
  > - Original Message -
  > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: 
  > Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 3:09 PM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight
  >
  >
  >> Larry,
  >>
  >> First, 3 inch screws are too long for holding down a plywood deck. even
2
  >> inch is probably a little too long.
  >>
  >> The screws won't pull the plywood laterally. If the sheet is down on
the
  >> joist you can drive the screw at any angle pretty well, it will bridge
the
  >> interface where the sheet meets the joist but because they are in
contact
  >> the screw will only hold them together at that point. I sometimes very
  >> deliberately run screws or more often nails at opposite angles to each
  >> other so they spread in direction to make them a way more difficult to
  >> pull apart. No matter how you pull at least one will not be pulling out
  >> straight.
  >>
  >> In general though you will go pretty straight just by holding the screw
or
  >> the drill bit and judging vertical. Going a little sideways might run
the
  >> screw out through one side or other of the joist and this would reduce
  >> strength a little and isn't so pretty. I don't see that so much with
  >> screws but quite often see it where builders drive nails crooked like
  >> that.
  >>
  >> Now one solution I have used in the past where really square alignment
  >> matters is to take a piece of timber and cut a slight groove in it
  >> perpendicular to the surface I will place against the flat surface. It
  >> must be thick enough to guide but thin enough to allow the drill or
screw
  >> to get well into the surface. Just place the block with the groove
ending
  >> where you want the hole or screw then line the drill resting just in
the
  >> groove and drill it in. If there is three inches of drill exposed and
the
  >> groove is across the edge of a block of 2 by stock you will be in an
inch
  >> and a half before the chuck contacts the block, just slide the block
away
  >> and continue on down to the end of your three inches.
  >>
  >> Hope this is helpful.
  >>
  >> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >> Skype DaleLeavens
  >> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
  >>
  >>
  >> - Original Message -
  >> From: Larry Stansifer
  >> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  >> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:22 AM
  >> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight
  >>
  >>
  >> Well guys, the subject line pretty much says it all.
  >> I need some ideas on how to start all of these screws straight. Working
  >> with
  >> metal, I can't ever remember having to place fasteners every 16" on
  >> center
  >> at 1 foot intervals. My guess is if you don't get that screw or pilot
  >> hole
  >> damn close to straight it will tweak the work out of square.
  >> This begs the question, how 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Re: cordless tools

[Peawee]

I, agree. It's always been confusion, the life of the battery or the life of
the user. I prefer my life to the battery. Who to say what the life of the
battery. A year or two years or more or months. That would be set by the
mfg. If it is my life that could be a few seconds to 100 years old depending
on the age and shape and health of the user. I would think it would usually
be longer than the life of the battery. I guesses you need to read that fine
print. Just my thoughts.

Peawee
[EMAIL PROTECTED]




-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jewel Blanch
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 9:54 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: cordless tools

This lifetime guarantee has always mystified me! Whose life: mine or the
tool/battery? If it is the tool/battery: it's hard to argue with them on
that one! If that is not a self-fulfilling guarantee: I guess I've never
seen one!

Jewel

- Original Message -
From: Bob Kennedy
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: cordless tools

When they guaranty the battery for life that's hard to beat. 
- Original Message -
From: GLENN PERMAR
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 4:35 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: cordless tools

I have had and still have several Craftsman drills that ranged from 14.4 to
19.2 volts. I also had an 18 volt Milwaukee that was a very good drill. I
now have a Rigid 18 volt that is so much better than the others that I can't
believe that it is either equal or less power. I have driven many three inch
screws with it and if I don't set the clutch or stop the drill it will
either drive the screw head out of sight or wring it off. Rigid also has the
best warranty of any power tools that I have found.
Thanks, Glenn
- Original Message -
From: Gil Laster
To: Post to Blind Handyman
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:16 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: cordless tools

I have an 18-volt Craftsman drill, that was on sale for $80 with 2-batteries
and charger. I have yet to stall it driving 3-inch deck screws except when
the battery is weak. The price was less than replacing 2 batteries for my
previous Ryobi 9.6-volt drill. The Craftsman is now 3-years-old and the
batteries (nickel-cadmium) do not hold much charge anymore. I am watching
for another sale. It is unfortunate that some drills can be made disposable
by the cost of a pair of replacement batteries.

- Gil Laster
Charlotte, NC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[BlindHandyMan] more cordless tools

[Lenny McHugh]

Well, yesterday I did receive a $43 refund on the Skil 14.4V drill. I then 
strolled through tool world to see if there was anything that wanted to 
follow me home. There are manytools on reduced prices and clearance. One 
tool that intreged me was the Skill cordless wrench which was on sale for 
$50. It is a LI battery rachet with 7 sockets. It has 400 in pounds of 
torque. It is a pretty hefty unit. I didn't buy it since I can't remember 
the last time I used my socket set.

Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources. 



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Transfer switch

[Ron Yearns]

Glad to be of help.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 9:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Transfer switch


  Ron,

  With your post and what I found on the net, I am about ready to install a 
transfer switch with the help of my sighted wife.

  Thanks again for the help.
  RJ

  - Original Message - 
  From: Ron Yearns 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 20:38
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Transfer switch

  Well took a little time, but found the full load amperage chart in the code 
it is 440--148 in the 96 NEC. Anyway a one horse at 230 volt calls for 8 amps 
and I took the liberty of looking at one forth and one third horspower motors 
at 120 volt and they are 5 and 7 amps. Guessing fridges, freezers, sump pumps 
and furnance motors to not be larger than one third each I think a 30 amp 
switch will work. If you split the four 120 volt motors and just estimate a 
little high at 7 amps each plus the 8 amps of the pump you get a total of 22 
amps per leg. The generator is capable of producing 26 amps per leg. yes watts 
is volts times amps. So with a 5700 total watts at 220 volts you get a amps of 
26. 5700 divided by 220. I doubt if all of these motors will ever run at the 
same time or more importantly start at the same. Instat starting on some motors 
can be as much as three times the running current. I myself would put them all 
on together and see what happens. 
  For breakers in the six circuit panel. A two pole for the well pump and a 
single pole for each of the other items and a two pole 30 amp can sub feed this 
during regular times. This is providing you are not running other outlets with 
any of these appliances are heavy lighting loads are with these motors.
  Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:14 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Transfer switch

  That sure was a typo. And yes, I am planning on using a manual transfer 
switch. I also know that the generator isn't large enough to run every thing 
and will have to pick and choose. The freezer, refrigerator, and sump pump 
isn't a problem, but the well pump might be. If my memory serves me right, one 
figures out the watts by amps times volts. The well pump is a 1 horse and I 
can't remember how to figure watts by horse power.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ron Yearns 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 19:43
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Transfer switch

  Do you have a horsepower rating or the full run amperage on that 220 volt 
well pump. The same for the sump pump. Are you going to manually turn the 
individual breakers on as needed during this time? By the way a 5.7 kw 
generator puts out 5,700 watts not the 55 thousand, but maybe that was a typo.
  Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: Handyman 
  Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 1:44 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Transfer switch

  I am planning on putting in a transfer switch and sub-panel for my generator 
  that is a 5.7 K or running at 55700 watts. Should I put in a 30 amp or 
  forty amp transfer switch with a 6 circuit panel. What I will be placing in 
  the sub-panel is a circuit for each of the following. refrigerator, freezer, 
  sump pump, furnace, and a 220 well pump. I am not planning on running all 
  the above at one time, while running the generator. I will be placing a 
  circuit breaker in the main to hook up the transfer switch and removing the 
  above circuits for the appliances from the main box and placing them in the 
  sub-panel.
  RJ 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight

[Ron Yearns]

Good deal.  The only drywall screws sold around here are the black ones.  They 
call the galvanized ones deck screws.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan H. 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 9:21 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight


  I buy galvanized drywall screws all the time and they work fine.
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Ron Yearns
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 7:43 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight

  Ah did I hear someone say something about using drywall screws on this deck?
  One should only use the proper coated deck screws for treated lumber or
  galvanized. Even the old c c a takes a different head and coating than the
  newer c b a lumber. Anyway dry wall screws used on even redwood will rust
  real quick as they have no coating.
  Ron
  - Original Message -
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 2:48 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight

  one could drill through the bottom leaf, with the intended bit, and have a
  bit guide. fully centered. Place that angle on a larger square of metal,
  affix it as you like,weld, solder, pox, drill through again; and you can
  pop pop your pilots all over those boards.
  The dry wall screws are a great idea as well.
  They seem to have a great amount of strength for their size, and cut well;
  so you don't have to drill quite as deep.
  1.75 for 3/4.

  On Sat, 12 Jan 2008, David W Wood wrote:

  > A simple way is to use a simple 90 degree angle bracket, about an inch
  wide
  > with, say, 2 inch leaves.
  >
  > if you place this on the surface of the work piece, then you can use it to
  > true the drill bit by firming it into the concave angle of the bracket.
  > simple, rough but effective.
  >
  > David
  >
  > - Original Message -
  > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: 
  > Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 3:09 PM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight
  >
  >
  >> Larry,
  >>
  >> First, 3 inch screws are too long for holding down a plywood deck. even 2
  >> inch is probably a little too long.
  >>
  >> The screws won't pull the plywood laterally. If the sheet is down on the
  >> joist you can drive the screw at any angle pretty well, it will bridge
  the
  >> interface where the sheet meets the joist but because they are in contact
  >> the screw will only hold them together at that point. I sometimes very
  >> deliberately run screws or more often nails at opposite angles to each
  >> other so they spread in direction to make them a way more difficult to
  >> pull apart. No matter how you pull at least one will not be pulling out
  >> straight.
  >>
  >> In general though you will go pretty straight just by holding the screw
  or
  >> the drill bit and judging vertical. Going a little sideways might run the
  >> screw out through one side or other of the joist and this would reduce
  >> strength a little and isn't so pretty. I don't see that so much with
  >> screws but quite often see it where builders drive nails crooked like
  >> that.
  >>
  >> Now one solution I have used in the past where really square alignment
  >> matters is to take a piece of timber and cut a slight groove in it
  >> perpendicular to the surface I will place against the flat surface. It
  >> must be thick enough to guide but thin enough to allow the drill or screw
  >> to get well into the surface. Just place the block with the groove ending
  >> where you want the hole or screw then line the drill resting just in the
  >> groove and drill it in. If there is three inches of drill exposed and the
  >> groove is across the edge of a block of 2 by stock you will be in an inch
  >> and a half before the chuck contacts the block, just slide the block away
  >> and continue on down to the end of your three inches.
  >>
  >> Hope this is helpful.
  >>
  >> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >> Skype DaleLeavens
  >> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
  >>
  >>
  >> - Original Message -
  >> From: Larry Stansifer
  >> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  >> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:22 AM
  >> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight
  >>
  >>
  >> Well guys, the subject line pretty much says it all.
  >> I need some ideas on how to start all of these screws straight. Working
  >> with
  >> metal, I can't ever remember having to place fasteners every 16" on
  >> center
  >> at 1 foot intervals. My guess is if you don't get that screw or pilot
  >> hole
  >> damn close to straight it will tweak the work out of square.
  >> This begs the question, how does a blind guy drill about a bazillion
  >> straight pilot holes? When working in metal I

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wattage calculator

[Ron Yearns]

Well it is good to see the amperage in the Electric Codebook and this chart 
agrees.  Not down to th exact watt, but close enough to be the same.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: Handyman 
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 8:18 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Wattage calculator


  Here is a web site for a wattage calculator that I came across.

  
http://www.generatorsales.com/calculator_GOOGLE.ASP?gclid=CIiakJSu85ACFReQGgodJx1l0g.



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

[David Ferrin]

The question is who if anybody likes plumbing actually. Oh the joys of 
owning a home.
David Ferrin
 www.jaws-users.com
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 1:39 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!


This weekend was spent in battle with the pipes. The war was waged on two
fronts, the kitchen faucet, and an unused toilet in the basement.

the faucet had the upper hand for a while, but it now lays in many pieces
at the bottom of my trash. Score one for the blind guy!

This was an old faucet with three separate mountings, one each for the two
taps, and one for the faucet itself. I spent a lot of time under the sink
with the mother of all basin wrenches trying to get the nuts off the taps
to no avail. I tried taking them out from above, but there was no way to
grab onto the little collars, which also happened to be puttied to the
sink surface. Much to Teresa's dismay, I, screaming that I would exact my
vengeance on the faucet, ran to the basement and retrieved my Dremel.
Several broken cutting disks later, after much prying, cursing and
snarling, the taps and faucet were removed from the sink and the sink
surface was not marred from the Dremel.

Of course, after I slid the new faucet in place, the flex tubes attached
to the faucet were not long enough to reach the shut-offs under the sink.
That meant, not surprisingly, another trip to the store, but that had to
wait until Sunday.

Sunday morning I took a closer look at the toilet in the basement. This
is a cruddy old toilet stuck in the corner of the basement with a plywood
wall on none side and a partial plywood door. These are very common in
Pittsburgh. The guts of the tank were completely rusted and broken and
since the shut-off to the toilet didn't actually shut the water off, there
had been a paint can wedged into the tank to keep the fill valve closed.
I had upgraded the paint can to a 20 pound dumbell but figured I should
probably fix the shut-off and take care of the tank guts while I was at
it.

Off to the store. We found some flexible tubes to extend the faucet lines
and I installed them as soon as we got home. Had a lot of trouble getting
the sprayer attachment threaded onto the under-side of the faucet, but
Teresa eventually got her hands in there and got it tightened down. New
faucet, with a single handle, works fine, of course, the brand new, $108
faucet has an itty bitty drip.

Back down to the basement to lead the attack on the toilet.

Turns out that the water connection to the tank was pretty clugy. Check
this out, step by step:

Long Copper pipe literally hangs down from the ceiling joists,
threaded fitting sweated onto end of Copper pipe,
shut-off screwed onto fitting,
short, threaded, black iron pipe screwed into shut-off,
elbow screwed into black iron,
horizontal copper sweated into elbow,
elbow sweated into other end of horizontal Copper,
Some kind of fitting, possibly compression, bodged onto elbow,
finally into tank.

I managed to get the shut-off replaced with a ball valve without too much
trouble. I managed to get the guts of the tank changed with a lot of
work, having to cut and tare out some of the old parts. I could not get
the funky assembly described above to go back into the new tank connection
without leaking rather impressively. So, we are at a draw at the moment,
but I intend on replacing most of that assembly with a flexible hose.

Nearly panicked when in an attempt to identify what branch of my house
plumbing has a slow leak, I turned off a shut-off and it proceeded to gush
water like a hose. I got the main valve for the house shut and messed
around with the shut-off for a while and cranked it open again and it
seems to be happy for the time being. I'm starting to contemplate
replacing all my shut-offs with ball valves. Replacing everything with
PEX actually sounds very good at the moment, although I think Teresa might
hang me with the PEX if I attempt a job like that. Certainly not before
the deck railings are done.

I hate plumbing!

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: (412) 268-9081


 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

[Dan Rossi]

This weekend was spent in battle with the pipes.  The war was waged on two 
fronts, the kitchen faucet, and an unused toilet in the basement.

the faucet had the upper hand for a while, but it now lays in many pieces 
at the bottom of my trash.  Score one for the blind guy!

This was an old faucet with three separate mountings, one each for the two 
taps, and one for the faucet itself.  I spent a lot of time under the sink 
with the mother of all basin wrenches trying to get the nuts off the taps 
to no avail.  I tried taking them out from above, but there was no way to 
grab onto the little collars, which also happened to be puttied to the 
sink surface.  Much to Teresa's dismay, I, screaming that I would exact my 
vengeance on the faucet, ran to the basement and retrieved my Dremel. 
Several broken cutting disks later, after much prying, cursing and 
snarling, the taps and faucet were removed from the sink and the sink 
surface was not marred from the Dremel.

Of course, after I slid the new faucet in place, the flex tubes attached 
to the faucet were not long enough to reach the shut-offs under the sink. 
That meant, not surprisingly, another trip to the store, but that had to 
wait until Sunday.

Sunday morning I took a closer look at the toilet in the basement.  This 
is a cruddy old toilet stuck in the corner of the basement with a plywood 
wall on none side and a partial plywood door.  These are very common in 
Pittsburgh.  The guts of the tank were completely rusted and broken and 
since the shut-off to the toilet didn't actually shut the water off, there 
had been a paint can wedged into the tank to keep the fill valve closed. 
I had upgraded the paint can to a 20 pound dumbell but figured I should 
probably fix the shut-off and take care of the tank guts while I was at 
it.

Off to the store.  We found some flexible tubes to extend the faucet lines 
and I installed them as soon as we got home.  Had a lot of trouble getting 
the sprayer attachment threaded onto the under-side of the faucet, but 
Teresa eventually got her hands in there and got it tightened down.  New 
faucet, with a single handle, works fine, of course, the brand new, $108 
faucet has an itty bitty drip.

Back down to the basement to lead the attack on the toilet.

Turns out that the water connection to the tank was pretty clugy.  Check 
this out, step by step:

Long Copper pipe literally hangs down from the ceiling joists,
threaded fitting sweated onto end of Copper pipe,
shut-off screwed onto fitting,
short, threaded, black iron pipe screwed into shut-off,
elbow screwed into black iron,
horizontal copper sweated into elbow,
elbow sweated into other end of horizontal Copper,
Some kind of fitting, possibly compression, bodged onto elbow,
finally into tank.

I managed to get the shut-off replaced with a ball valve without too much 
trouble.  I managed to get the guts of the tank changed with a lot of 
work, having to cut and tare out some of the old parts.  I could not get 
the funky assembly described above to go back into the new tank connection 
without leaking rather impressively.  So, we are at a draw at the moment, 
but I intend on replacing most of that assembly with a flexible hose.

Nearly panicked when in an attempt to identify what branch of my house 
plumbing has a slow leak, I turned off a shut-off and it proceeded to gush 
water like a hose.  I got the main valve for the house shut and messed 
around with the shut-off for a while and cranked it open again and it 
seems to be happy for the time being.  I'm starting to contemplate 
replacing all my shut-offs with ball valves.  Replacing everything with 
PEX actually sounds very good at the moment, although I think Teresa might 
hang me with the PEX if I attempt a job like that.  Certainly not before 
the deck railings are done.

I hate plumbing!

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081

Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

[RJ]

It  

sounds as you didn't have to go out for your 
entertainment this weekend.
Smile,
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 13:39
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!


  This weekend was spent in battle with the pipes. The war was waged on two 
  fronts, the kitchen faucet, and an unused toilet in the basement.

  the faucet had the upper hand for a while, but it now lays in many pieces 
  at the bottom of my trash. Score one for the blind guy!

  This was an old faucet with three separate mountings, one each for the two 
  taps, and one for the faucet itself. I spent a lot of time under the sink 
  with the mother of all basin wrenches trying to get the nuts off the taps 
  to no avail. I tried taking them out from above, but there was no way to 
  grab onto the little collars, which also happened to be puttied to the 
  sink surface. Much to Teresa's dismay, I, screaming that I would exact my 
  vengeance on the faucet, ran to the basement and retrieved my Dremel. 
  Several broken cutting disks later, after much prying, cursing and 
  snarling, the taps and faucet were removed from the sink and the sink 
  surface was not marred from the Dremel.

  Of course, after I slid the new faucet in place, the flex tubes attached 
  to the faucet were not long enough to reach the shut-offs under the sink. 
  That meant, not surprisingly, another trip to the store, but that had to 
  wait until Sunday.

  Sunday morning I took a closer look at the toilet in the basement. This 
  is a cruddy old toilet stuck in the corner of the basement with a plywood 
  wall on none side and a partial plywood door. These are very common in 
  Pittsburgh. The guts of the tank were completely rusted and broken and 
  since the shut-off to the toilet didn't actually shut the water off, there 
  had been a paint can wedged into the tank to keep the fill valve closed. 
  I had upgraded the paint can to a 20 pound dumbell but figured I should 
  probably fix the shut-off and take care of the tank guts while I was at 
  it.

  Off to the store. We found some flexible tubes to extend the faucet lines 
  and I installed them as soon as we got home. Had a lot of trouble getting 
  the sprayer attachment threaded onto the under-side of the faucet, but 
  Teresa eventually got her hands in there and got it tightened down. New 
  faucet, with a single handle, works fine, of course, the brand new, $108 
  faucet has an itty bitty drip.

  Back down to the basement to lead the attack on the toilet.

  Turns out that the water connection to the tank was pretty clugy. Check 
  this out, step by step:

  Long Copper pipe literally hangs down from the ceiling joists,
  threaded fitting sweated onto end of Copper pipe,
  shut-off screwed onto fitting,
  short, threaded, black iron pipe screwed into shut-off,
  elbow screwed into black iron,
  horizontal copper sweated into elbow,
  elbow sweated into other end of horizontal Copper,
  Some kind of fitting, possibly compression, bodged onto elbow,
  finally into tank.

  I managed to get the shut-off replaced with a ball valve without too much 
  trouble. I managed to get the guts of the tank changed with a lot of 
  work, having to cut and tare out some of the old parts. I could not get 
  the funky assembly described above to go back into the new tank connection 
  without leaking rather impressively. So, we are at a draw at the moment, 
  but I intend on replacing most of that assembly with a flexible hose.

  Nearly panicked when in an attempt to identify what branch of my house 
  plumbing has a slow leak, I turned off a shut-off and it proceeded to gush 
  water like a hose. I got the main valve for the house shut and messed 
  around with the shut-off for a while and cranked it open again and it 
  seems to be happy for the time being. I'm starting to contemplate 
  replacing all my shut-offs with ball valves. Replacing everything with 
  PEX actually sounds very good at the moment, although I think Teresa might 
  hang me with the PEX if I attempt a job like that. Certainly not before 
  the deck railings are done.

  I hate plumbing!

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] sort of vice grips

[Peter Mikochik]

hi gang

my wife just gave me a late christmas present.  she saw it on tv and 
bought it.
they look like vice grips but not only have the loc release at the end of 
the bottom arm but also squeeze together near the jaws.  kind of like  a 
sliding adjustable wrench and vice grip. wierd, but pretty well made.
anyone know these?

pete

[BlindHandyMan] Compressed Air on A Tool Belt

[Boyce, Ray]

Compressed Air on a Tool Belt

 something new in the world of pneumatic tools. Lowe's and Rhino Power
have teamed up to offer
a portable new Kobalt CO2 Regulator. The Regulator is compact and
lightweight, and equipped with a standard universal connector to power
most pneumatic
tools-brad nailers, staplers, roofing guns, inflators, caulking guns,
etc. It comes with a 10-foot extendible air hose and CO2 tank. The tank
and regulator,
which have a combined weight of less than 5 pounds, are designed to clip
to your tool belt; just hook the pneumatic tool to the connector and go
to work.

According to Lowe's, carbon dioxide is nearly 500-percent more efficient
than traditional air compressors. The company estimates that a full
9-ounce CO2
tank will yield 675 shots with a brad gun, 338 with a brad/stapler and
270 with a caulking gun. And unlike battery power, CO2 will provide full
power right
to the last shot.

The Kobalt Portable Compressed CO2 Regulator will soon be available
exclusively at Lowe's at a retail price of $99. A spare 9-ounce Rhino
Power CO2 tank
has an MSRP of $23.97, or you can exchange an emtpy tank for a full one
at Lowe's, which costs only $5.97. Twenty-ounce tanks are also
available.
http://ww2.bluerhino.com/eprise/main/RhinoPower/AirTools/index.html


**
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
e-mail and delete the e-mail.

Any content of this message and its attachments which
does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
**



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Compressed Air on A Tool Belt

[Brice Mijares]

This sounds a mite dangerous.  I'd hate to have this on my back and for some 
damn reason it explodes.
- Original Message - 
From: "Boyce, Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:34 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Compressed Air on A Tool Belt


> Compressed Air on a Tool Belt
>
> something new in the world of pneumatic tools. Lowe's and Rhino Power
> have teamed up to offer
> a portable new Kobalt CO2 Regulator. The Regulator is compact and
> lightweight, and equipped with a standard universal connector to power
> most pneumatic
> tools-brad nailers, staplers, roofing guns, inflators, caulking guns,
> etc. It comes with a 10-foot extendible air hose and CO2 tank. The tank
> and regulator,
> which have a combined weight of less than 5 pounds, are designed to clip
> to your tool belt; just hook the pneumatic tool to the connector and go
> to work.
>
> According to Lowe's, carbon dioxide is nearly 500-percent more efficient
> than traditional air compressors. The company estimates that a full
> 9-ounce CO2
> tank will yield 675 shots with a brad gun, 338 with a brad/stapler and
> 270 with a caulking gun. And unlike battery power, CO2 will provide full
> power right
> to the last shot.
>
> The Kobalt Portable Compressed CO2 Regulator will soon be available
> exclusively at Lowe's at a retail price of $99. A spare 9-ounce Rhino
> Power CO2 tank
> has an MSRP of $23.97, or you can exchange an emtpy tank for a full one
> at Lowe's, which costs only $5.97. Twenty-ounce tanks are also
> available.
> http://ww2.bluerhino.com/eprise/main/RhinoPower/AirTools/index.html
>
>
> **
> This message and its attachments may contain legally
> privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
> intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
> information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
> in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
> e-mail and delete the e-mail.
>
> Any content of this message and its attachments which
> does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
> must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
> Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
> attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
> **
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

[Bob Kennedy]

Always the odd ball, I like plumbing.  It has gotten a bit harder to solder 
since they have done away with led in the solder but I can still sweat a pipe 
together.  

For those that don't like risking a fire in the house, they now make a 
solderless compound for copper pipes.  It is much like the C A form of epoxy I 
use to build golf clubs with.  It comes in a can and you brush it on like the 
stuff used with PVC.  Great idea for places where a torch is dangerous.  I'll 
find the link and send it along later.


  - Original Message - 
  From: David Ferrin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 1:45 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!


  The question is who if anybody likes plumbing actually. Oh the joys of 
  owning a home.
  David Ferrin
  www.jaws-users.com
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 1:39 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

  This weekend was spent in battle with the pipes. The war was waged on two
  fronts, the kitchen faucet, and an unused toilet in the basement.

  the faucet had the upper hand for a while, but it now lays in many pieces
  at the bottom of my trash. Score one for the blind guy!

  This was an old faucet with three separate mountings, one each for the two
  taps, and one for the faucet itself. I spent a lot of time under the sink
  with the mother of all basin wrenches trying to get the nuts off the taps
  to no avail. I tried taking them out from above, but there was no way to
  grab onto the little collars, which also happened to be puttied to the
  sink surface. Much to Teresa's dismay, I, screaming that I would exact my
  vengeance on the faucet, ran to the basement and retrieved my Dremel.
  Several broken cutting disks later, after much prying, cursing and
  snarling, the taps and faucet were removed from the sink and the sink
  surface was not marred from the Dremel.

  Of course, after I slid the new faucet in place, the flex tubes attached
  to the faucet were not long enough to reach the shut-offs under the sink.
  That meant, not surprisingly, another trip to the store, but that had to
  wait until Sunday.

  Sunday morning I took a closer look at the toilet in the basement. This
  is a cruddy old toilet stuck in the corner of the basement with a plywood
  wall on none side and a partial plywood door. These are very common in
  Pittsburgh. The guts of the tank were completely rusted and broken and
  since the shut-off to the toilet didn't actually shut the water off, there
  had been a paint can wedged into the tank to keep the fill valve closed.
  I had upgraded the paint can to a 20 pound dumbell but figured I should
  probably fix the shut-off and take care of the tank guts while I was at
  it.

  Off to the store. We found some flexible tubes to extend the faucet lines
  and I installed them as soon as we got home. Had a lot of trouble getting
  the sprayer attachment threaded onto the under-side of the faucet, but
  Teresa eventually got her hands in there and got it tightened down. New
  faucet, with a single handle, works fine, of course, the brand new, $108
  faucet has an itty bitty drip.

  Back down to the basement to lead the attack on the toilet.

  Turns out that the water connection to the tank was pretty clugy. Check
  this out, step by step:

  Long Copper pipe literally hangs down from the ceiling joists,
  threaded fitting sweated onto end of Copper pipe,
  shut-off screwed onto fitting,
  short, threaded, black iron pipe screwed into shut-off,
  elbow screwed into black iron,
  horizontal copper sweated into elbow,
  elbow sweated into other end of horizontal Copper,
  Some kind of fitting, possibly compression, bodged onto elbow,
  finally into tank.

  I managed to get the shut-off replaced with a ball valve without too much
  trouble. I managed to get the guts of the tank changed with a lot of
  work, having to cut and tare out some of the old parts. I could not get
  the funky assembly described above to go back into the new tank connection
  without leaking rather impressively. So, we are at a draw at the moment,
  but I intend on replacing most of that assembly with a flexible hose.

  Nearly panicked when in an attempt to identify what branch of my house
  plumbing has a slow leak, I turned off a shut-off and it proceeded to gush
  water like a hose. I got the main valve for the house shut and messed
  around with the shut-off for a while and cranked it open again and it
  seems to be happy for the time being. I'm starting to contemplate
  replacing all my shut-offs with ball valves. Replacing everything with
  PEX actually sounds very good at the moment, although I think Teresa might
  hang me with the PEX if I attempt a job like that. Certainly not before
  the deck railings are done.

  I hate plumbing!

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PRO

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Compressed Air on A Tool Belt

[Larry Stansifer]

Bryce,

We have been using compressed CO2 in racing pits to power air-tools, clean
parts and spin air starters for a number of years with no mishaps. Far more
efficient than the old school method of setting up your portable generator
and firing up your air compressor with all of the necessary power cords and
air hoses.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 4:46 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Compressed Air on A Tool Belt


This sounds a mite dangerous.  I'd hate to have this on my back and for some

damn reason it explodes.
- Original Message - 
From: "Boyce, Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:34 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Compressed Air on A Tool Belt


> Compressed Air on a Tool Belt
>
> something new in the world of pneumatic tools. Lowe's and Rhino Power 
> have teamed up to offer a portable new Kobalt CO2 Regulator. The 
> Regulator is compact and lightweight, and equipped with a standard 
> universal connector to power most pneumatic
> tools-brad nailers, staplers, roofing guns, inflators, caulking guns,
> etc. It comes with a 10-foot extendible air hose and CO2 tank. The tank
> and regulator,
> which have a combined weight of less than 5 pounds, are designed to clip
> to your tool belt; just hook the pneumatic tool to the connector and go
> to work.
>
> According to Lowe's, carbon dioxide is nearly 500-percent more 
> efficient than traditional air compressors. The company estimates that 
> a full 9-ounce CO2 tank will yield 675 shots with a brad gun, 338 with 
> a brad/stapler and 270 with a caulking gun. And unlike battery power, 
> CO2 will provide full power right
> to the last shot.
>
> The Kobalt Portable Compressed CO2 Regulator will soon be available 
> exclusively at Lowe's at a retail price of $99. A spare 9-ounce Rhino 
> Power CO2 tank has an MSRP of $23.97, or you can exchange an emtpy 
> tank for a full one at Lowe's, which costs only $5.97. Twenty-ounce 
> tanks are also available.
> http://ww2.bluerhino.com/eprise/main/RhinoPower/AirTools/index.html
>
>
> **
> This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or 
> confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you 
> must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have 
> received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by 
> return e-mail and delete the e-mail.
>
> Any content of this message and its attachments which
> does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be 
> taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty 
> is made that the e-mail or
> attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
> **
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link 
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. 
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
> Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address 
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the 
> following
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>



To listen to the show archives go to link  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list
of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links





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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

[William Stephan]

Yeah Dale, I've thought about it, but it would mean building patricians
since the basement is just one big open space.

 

Also, for info sake, I looked at Harbor Freight today, and it looks to me
like what they call a chop saw and what they call a compound miter saw are
two very different animals.  I had thought they were the same.  Can someone
clue me in on what I'm missing?

 

Thanks.

 

 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 9:41 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

 

Just a thought but you might be willing to isolate the laundry by lining the
partitions with poly. You can also hang a good dust filter. They are pretty
expensive though but it is remarkable how much dust they can take out of the
air.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  net
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

- Original Message - 
From: William Stephan 
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 9:02 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

Thanks Bob and Dale. Yeah, it's a real dilemma for me. My wife has her
laundry plant in the basement, and the basement's really the only place it's
convenient for me to do work. We have an old garage, but there's no
electrical service, and it's just not a pleasant place to work. Maybe if I
get a chop saw, which I think would actually be adequate, it'll just have to
live out in the garage on extension cords during the warmer months, though
having a good positive dust collection system without having to run a noisey
vac would sure be nice in the basement.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 5:25 PM
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

So far as I know these saws are about as bad as it gets for dust control. I
suppose with enough vacuum anything is possible but the overhead nature of
the saw means that the teeth lift dust arcing into the air. Some actually
does make it's way into the dust bags but much of it flies all over the
place, mostly away from the operator.

I built a cabinet with a hemicircular sort of baffle with a 4 inch hole in
the bottom and a 1100 cu.ft. dust collector behind that as well as a tube
from the dust port on the saw into that hole and it still doesn't collect
all the dust.It does contain it so I can blow or brush much of it toward the
extraction hole at intervals. Maybe a tent over the lot with a sleeve to
accept the operators arm I don't know.

The main disadvantage to a chop saw is the depth and width of cut, the
capacity. If that meets your needs though they are quite cost effective.

Now that dust control is becoming more of interest they may begin adding
direct powered dust extraction right at the blade but I am not aware of that
on any units yet.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  net
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

- Original Message - 
From: William Stephan 
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 3:44 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

All:

The time has come again to think about some kind of stationary saw. So, I'm
thinking a chop saw might do pretty much all I need. I have some memories
of these, but this is 25 plus years ago. My recollection is that these were
made with a sort of tub you actually did your cutting in. And, if that's
right, it would seem you could control dust easier with that kind of set up
than with a normal table saw.

Am I remembering this right? And, is it in fact easier to control dust with
one of these?

Thanks.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]  com
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 2:33 AM
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] miter boxes

I need to replace mine. I don't see chop-saw money here anytime soon.
The one I have is actually plasticand has served for just under 10 years.
Are there some that are especially worth paying considerably more? 
Something metal, with adjustments?
Curious.

On Sat, 12 Jan 2008, Bob Kennedy wrote:

> They are fine as a guide. Although you can get away without one, you need
to use a back sa

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Compressed Air on A Tool Belt

[Bob Kennedy]

It's no more likely to explode than the air compressor in the shop.  The 
canister holds a specific amount of pressure and by law it is regulated very 
closely.  It would be similar to running a hose from a propane cylinder that 
you run a small torch off.  Only a lot safer than propane.  Think of carrying a 
mini fire extinguisher on your belt.  CO2 fire extinguishers have been around 
for many years and I haven't heard of any exploding.  I've discharged one in my 
shop before and dried ice pellets sprayed out, but an extinguisher doesn't have 
the regulator in place to stop that.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Brice Mijares 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 6:46 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Compressed Air on A Tool Belt


  This sounds a mite dangerous. I'd hate to have this on my back and for some 
  damn reason it explodes.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Boyce, Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:34 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Compressed Air on A Tool Belt

  > Compressed Air on a Tool Belt
  >
  > something new in the world of pneumatic tools. Lowe's and Rhino Power
  > have teamed up to offer
  > a portable new Kobalt CO2 Regulator. The Regulator is compact and
  > lightweight, and equipped with a standard universal connector to power
  > most pneumatic
  > tools-brad nailers, staplers, roofing guns, inflators, caulking guns,
  > etc. It comes with a 10-foot extendible air hose and CO2 tank. The tank
  > and regulator,
  > which have a combined weight of less than 5 pounds, are designed to clip
  > to your tool belt; just hook the pneumatic tool to the connector and go
  > to work.
  >
  > According to Lowe's, carbon dioxide is nearly 500-percent more efficient
  > than traditional air compressors. The company estimates that a full
  > 9-ounce CO2
  > tank will yield 675 shots with a brad gun, 338 with a brad/stapler and
  > 270 with a caulking gun. And unlike battery power, CO2 will provide full
  > power right
  > to the last shot.
  >
  > The Kobalt Portable Compressed CO2 Regulator will soon be available
  > exclusively at Lowe's at a retail price of $99. A spare 9-ounce Rhino
  > Power CO2 tank
  > has an MSRP of $23.97, or you can exchange an emtpy tank for a full one
  > at Lowe's, which costs only $5.97. Twenty-ounce tanks are also
  > available.
  > http://ww2.bluerhino.com/eprise/main/RhinoPower/AirTools/index.html
  >
  >
  > **
  > This message and its attachments may contain legally
  > privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
  > intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
  > information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
  > in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
  > e-mail and delete the e-mail.
  >
  > Any content of this message and its attachments which
  > does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
  > must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
  > Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
  > attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
  > **
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  > or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
  >
  > Visit the archives page at the following address
  > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  >
  > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
  > address for more information:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/
  > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
  > list just send a blank message to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Yahoo! Groups Links
  >
  >
  >



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

[Bob Kennedy]

A compound miter means you can turn the blade to an angle just like you can do 
with a chop saw.  A compound miter means you can turn the blade to an angle 
plus you can tilt the blade to the side at the same time.  A chop saw doesn't 
do that as far as I know.  The compound miter saw is better suited for picture 
framing and very exact crosscuts.  The chop saw, if changed to a wood cutting 
blade will do very nice crosscuts and miter cuts.  But if you want to get real 
fancy as in shadow boxes like many picture framers do, then you will have to 
opt for the compound miter.  

It really depends on what you would be using it for.  If you research this just 
a bit further you'll also see sliding compound miter saws.  If you haven't seen 
one of these before it is much like the radial arm saw except that your blade 
raises up and you have to pull down on the motor to contact the wood.  

A radial arm saw was once thought so dangerous because you could pull the blade 
across your hand.  I tend to think it would be just as easy with a sliding 
miter to do the same amount of damage to a hand.  

There are a lot of choices to check out before buying a saw.  And you can go 
from 7 and a quarter up to 12 inches with the most popular models.  You can go 
up to a 16 inch or more if you want to hand over a bunch of money.


  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 9:45 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes


  Yeah Dale, I've thought about it, but it would mean building patricians
  since the basement is just one big open space.

  Also, for info sake, I looked at Harbor Freight today, and it looks to me
  like what they call a chop saw and what they call a compound miter saw are
  two very different animals. I had thought they were the same. Can someone
  clue me in on what I'm missing?

  Thanks.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 9:41 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

  Just a thought but you might be willing to isolate the laundry by lining the
  partitions with poly. You can also hang a good dust filter. They are pretty
  expensive though but it is remarkable how much dust they can take out of the
  air.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  net
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 9:02 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

  Thanks Bob and Dale. Yeah, it's a real dilemma for me. My wife has her
  laundry plant in the basement, and the basement's really the only place it's
  convenient for me to do work. We have an old garage, but there's no
  electrical service, and it's just not a pleasant place to work. Maybe if I
  get a chop saw, which I think would actually be adequate, it'll just have to
  live out in the garage on extension cords during the warmer months, though
  having a good positive dust collection system without having to run a noisey
  vac would sure be nice in the basement.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@ 
  yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
   yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 5:25 PM
  To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

  So far as I know these saws are about as bad as it gets for dust control. I
  suppose with enough vacuum anything is possible but the overhead nature of
  the saw means that the teeth lift dust arcing into the air. Some actually
  does make it's way into the dust bags but much of it flies all over the
  place, mostly away from the operator.

  I built a cabinet with a hemicircular sort of baffle with a 4 inch hole in
  the bottom and a 1100 cu.ft. dust collector behind that as well as a tube
  from the dust port on the saw into that hole and it still doesn't collect
  all the dust.It does contain it so I can blow or brush much of it toward the
  extraction hole at intervals. Maybe a tent over the lot with a sleeve to
  accept the operators arm I don't know.

  The main disadvantage to a chop saw is the depth and width of cut, the
  capacity. If that meets your needs though they are quite cost effective.

  Now that dust control is becoming more of interest they may begin adding
  direct powered dust extraction right at the blade but I am not aware of that
  on any units yet.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] more cordless tools

[clifford]

Dear Lenny:
I have been searching for a cordless ratchet, since my old one of ten 
years ago gave up the ghost. The old one I had was constructed like a fat 
ratchet and when the last tightening or breaking loose a tight nut were 
involved, the tool could be used as a hand ratchet, but when things got a 
bit easier, the battery would turn the head in the desired direction.
Does this description come close to the Skill cordless ratchet you 
nearly adopted?

Yours Truly,

Clifford Wilson
- Original Message - 
From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 7:59 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] more cordless tools


Well, yesterday I did receive a $43 refund on the Skil 14.4V drill. I then
strolled through tool world to see if there was anything that wanted to
follow me home. There are manytools on reduced prices and clearance. One
tool that intreged me was the Skill cordless wrench which was on sale for
$50. It is a LI battery rachet with 7 sockets. It has 400 in pounds of
torque. It is a pretty hefty unit. I didn't buy it since I can't remember
the last time I used my socket set.

Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources.



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yahoo! Groups Links




__ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature 
database 2791 (20080114) __

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

[Dale Alton]

It sounds like that is the reason they make really big hammers.  Plumbing is 
about the last thing I like to do.  I would rather mud.
Dale
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 12:28 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!


  It sounds as you didn't have to go out for your entertainment this weekend.
  Smile,
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 13:39
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

  This weekend was spent in battle with the pipes. The war was waged on two 
  fronts, the kitchen faucet, and an unused toilet in the basement.

  the faucet had the upper hand for a while, but it now lays in many pieces 
  at the bottom of my trash. Score one for the blind guy!

  This was an old faucet with three separate mountings, one each for the two 
  taps, and one for the faucet itself. I spent a lot of time under the sink 
  with the mother of all basin wrenches trying to get the nuts off the taps 
  to no avail. I tried taking them out from above, but there was no way to 
  grab onto the little collars, which also happened to be puttied to the 
  sink surface. Much to Teresa's dismay, I, screaming that I would exact my 
  vengeance on the faucet, ran to the basement and retrieved my Dremel. 
  Several broken cutting disks later, after much prying, cursing and 
  snarling, the taps and faucet were removed from the sink and the sink 
  surface was not marred from the Dremel.

  Of course, after I slid the new faucet in place, the flex tubes attached 
  to the faucet were not long enough to reach the shut-offs under the sink. 
  That meant, not surprisingly, another trip to the store, but that had to 
  wait until Sunday.

  Sunday morning I took a closer look at the toilet in the basement. This 
  is a cruddy old toilet stuck in the corner of the basement with a plywood 
  wall on none side and a partial plywood door. These are very common in 
  Pittsburgh. The guts of the tank were completely rusted and broken and 
  since the shut-off to the toilet didn't actually shut the water off, there 
  had been a paint can wedged into the tank to keep the fill valve closed. 
  I had upgraded the paint can to a 20 pound dumbell but figured I should 
  probably fix the shut-off and take care of the tank guts while I was at 
  it.

  Off to the store. We found some flexible tubes to extend the faucet lines 
  and I installed them as soon as we got home. Had a lot of trouble getting 
  the sprayer attachment threaded onto the under-side of the faucet, but 
  Teresa eventually got her hands in there and got it tightened down. New 
  faucet, with a single handle, works fine, of course, the brand new, $108 
  faucet has an itty bitty drip.

  Back down to the basement to lead the attack on the toilet.

  Turns out that the water connection to the tank was pretty clugy. Check 
  this out, step by step:

  Long Copper pipe literally hangs down from the ceiling joists,
  threaded fitting sweated onto end of Copper pipe,
  shut-off screwed onto fitting,
  short, threaded, black iron pipe screwed into shut-off,
  elbow screwed into black iron,
  horizontal copper sweated into elbow,
  elbow sweated into other end of horizontal Copper,
  Some kind of fitting, possibly compression, bodged onto elbow,
  finally into tank.

  I managed to get the shut-off replaced with a ball valve without too much 
  trouble. I managed to get the guts of the tank changed with a lot of 
  work, having to cut and tare out some of the old parts. I could not get 
  the funky assembly described above to go back into the new tank connection 
  without leaking rather impressively. So, we are at a draw at the moment, 
  but I intend on replacing most of that assembly with a flexible hose.

  Nearly panicked when in an attempt to identify what branch of my house 
  plumbing has a slow leak, I turned off a shut-off and it proceeded to gush 
  water like a hose. I got the main valve for the house shut and messed 
  around with the shut-off for a while and cranked it open again and it 
  seems to be happy for the time being. I'm starting to contemplate 
  replacing all my shut-offs with ball valves. Replacing everything with 
  PEX actually sounds very good at the moment, although I think Teresa might 
  hang me with the PEX if I attempt a job like that. Certainly not before 
  the deck railings are done.

  I hate plumbing!

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


--


  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
  Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1224 - Release Date: 1/14/2008 
5:39 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been

[BlindHandyMan] Solderless plumbing

[Bob Kennedy]

Here is a link in case anyone is interested in working with copper pipes 
without having to fire up the torch...  You will probably have to copy and 
paste the link as it is huge but  I copied and pasted it in my browser and it 
works.


https://commerce.vertex.net/justforcopper/product_detail.asp?
sku=HSB001&catID=&sID=F236N391N41X8GNEL5F0XU4RHE1587G2

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: digital compliant TVs

[Max Robinson]

The dark strips on the edges tell you that you are not seeing a true high 
definition program.  When such a program is received, the picture gets much 
wider and fills in the gaps.  The fix is to watch nothing but high 
definition programs.  Grin.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 2:30 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: digital compliant TVs


> Hi,
> Today, I let my bro-in-law see what cannels are already up in digital.
> All but the Public broadcasting channel.
> But there is a 1 to 1.5 inch black border on either side of the picture.
> 27 inch is down to 24 maximum.
> anyone have a fix for this?
> I think it's rather cool as with the TV having two tunors we can leave on
> on digital for the channels that do not seem to come in well in analog. I
> can't explain that, but it is what it is.
> thanks
>
>
> On Sat, 12 Jan 2008, Curtis Delzer wrote:
>
>> Well that is what I initially thought, and many a thousand less 
>> likelihood of errors since it is either all or nothing, only potentially 
>> gaps in the transmission for distances or fluttering from aircraft, etc. 
>> :)
>>
>>
>> Curtis Delzer
>> W B 6 H E F
>> Fessenden, North Dakota; 58438-7300
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Tom Fowle
>> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 2:41 PM
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: digital compliant TVs
>>
>>
>> From what I understand from my broadcast engineer friend,
>> the digital xmissions take somewhat less bandwidth than analog and
>> can be packed closer together. You don't have to skip chanels to get
>> the coverage you want as you often did with analog chanel assignments 
>> because
>> the stronger digital signal overrides the weaker one always.
>>
>> You'll never get a bad picture, either all or nothing. I guess that's an
>> improvement.
>>
>> Tom WA6IVG
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1222 - Release Date: 1/13/2008 
> 12:23 PM
>
> 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

[Dale Leavens]

Actually they are different though often the terms are used interchangeably. A 
chop saw and a compound miter saw are similar in that the saw is on a pivot and 
gets lowered into the cut however a chop saw is more commonly used to refer to 
one with a carborundum or other abrasive wheel as a blade. I have used these 
blades on my sliding compound miter saw too for scoring or cutting cement lock 
stone but don't much like the dust so now I more usually just split them with a 
masonry chisel and a 4 lb. mallet.

The chop saw is more usually used for cutting metal. The significance you are 
probably more interested in is the difference between a compound miter saw ans 
a sliding compound miter saw. The simple compound miter saw is quite a bit 
cheaper but otherwise works as well as a sliding compound saw except for 
capacity. A 10 inch sliding saw will usually have a capacity of 12 inches at 90 
degrees 0 bevel where as a non-sliding one will have about 8 inches capacity. 
You can get smaller ones 7 and a quarter inch blades with a capacity of about 4 
inches I think, maybe 5 and they cost only around a hundred and fifty bucks. I 
was suggesting that for someone on here earlier last week-end I think. You 
don't get a lot more for going to a 12 inch fixed or sliding compound miter 
saw, a small additional capacity but a big jump again in price. I am seeing 
some 10 inches sliding saws for a little better than 600 bucks though the 
better ones are still getting close to 800 bucks.

sorry for the confusion, just that the action of a downward stroke is what 
typifies the name. Most of the time I don't do anything more than that same 
downward stroke on my sliding saw though there are times I am really glad for 
the extra capacity the slide allows when I need it.

Hope this clarifies and again I am sorry about the loose use of terms. 

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 9:45 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes


  Yeah Dale, I've thought about it, but it would mean building patricians
  since the basement is just one big open space.

  Also, for info sake, I looked at Harbor Freight today, and it looks to me
  like what they call a chop saw and what they call a compound miter saw are
  two very different animals. I had thought they were the same. Can someone
  clue me in on what I'm missing?

  Thanks.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 9:41 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

  Just a thought but you might be willing to isolate the laundry by lining the
  partitions with poly. You can also hang a good dust filter. They are pretty
  expensive though but it is remarkable how much dust they can take out of the
  air.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  net
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 9:02 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

  Thanks Bob and Dale. Yeah, it's a real dilemma for me. My wife has her
  laundry plant in the basement, and the basement's really the only place it's
  convenient for me to do work. We have an old garage, but there's no
  electrical service, and it's just not a pleasant place to work. Maybe if I
  get a chop saw, which I think would actually be adequate, it'll just have to
  live out in the garage on extension cords during the warmer months, though
  having a good positive dust collection system without having to run a noisey
  vac would sure be nice in the basement.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@ 
  yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
   yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 5:25 PM
  To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saws was: miter boxes

  So far as I know these saws are about as bad as it gets for dust control. I
  suppose with enough vacuum anything is possible but the overhead nature of
  the saw means that the teeth lift dust arcing into the air. Some actually
  does make it's way into the dust bags but much of it flies all over the
  place, mostly away from the operator.

  I built a cabinet with a hemicircular sort of baffle with a 4 inch hole in
  the bottom and a 1100 cu.ft. dust collector behind that as well as a tube
  from 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

[Edward Przybylek]

Hi Bob,
 
The solderless compound sounds very interesting.  The web page makes it
sound very useful for those of us who have had very little success with
solder.  Have you ever used it?  How were the results?  Thanks.
 
Take care,
Ed
 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 6:57 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!



Always the odd ball, I like plumbing. It has gotten a bit harder to solder
since they have done away with led in the solder but I can still sweat a
pipe together. 

For those that don't like risking a fire in the house, they now make a
solderless compound for copper pipes. It is much like the C A form of epoxy
I use to build golf clubs with. It comes in a can and you brush it on like
the stuff used with PVC. Great idea for places where a torch is dangerous.
I'll find the link and send it along later.

- Original Message - 
From: David Ferrin 
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

The question is who if anybody likes plumbing actually. Oh the joys of 
owning a home.
David Ferrin
www.jaws-users.com
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi
To: BlindHandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 1:39 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

This weekend was spent in battle with the pipes. The war was waged on two
fronts, the kitchen faucet, and an unused toilet in the basement.

the faucet had the upper hand for a while, but it now lays in many pieces
at the bottom of my trash. Score one for the blind guy!

This was an old faucet with three separate mountings, one each for the two
taps, and one for the faucet itself. I spent a lot of time under the sink
with the mother of all basin wrenches trying to get the nuts off the taps
to no avail. I tried taking them out from above, but there was no way to
grab onto the little collars, which also happened to be puttied to the
sink surface. Much to Teresa's dismay, I, screaming that I would exact my
vengeance on the faucet, ran to the basement and retrieved my Dremel.
Several broken cutting disks later, after much prying, cursing and
snarling, the taps and faucet were removed from the sink and the sink
surface was not marred from the Dremel.

Of course, after I slid the new faucet in place, the flex tubes attached
to the faucet were not long enough to reach the shut-offs under the sink.
That meant, not surprisingly, another trip to the store, but that had to
wait until Sunday.

Sunday morning I took a closer look at the toilet in the basement. This
is a cruddy old toilet stuck in the corner of the basement with a plywood
wall on none side and a partial plywood door. These are very common in
Pittsburgh. The guts of the tank were completely rusted and broken and
since the shut-off to the toilet didn't actually shut the water off, there
had been a paint can wedged into the tank to keep the fill valve closed.
I had upgraded the paint can to a 20 pound dumbell but figured I should
probably fix the shut-off and take care of the tank guts while I was at
it.

Off to the store. We found some flexible tubes to extend the faucet lines
and I installed them as soon as we got home. Had a lot of trouble getting
the sprayer attachment threaded onto the under-side of the faucet, but
Teresa eventually got her hands in there and got it tightened down. New
faucet, with a single handle, works fine, of course, the brand new, $108
faucet has an itty bitty drip.

Back down to the basement to lead the attack on the toilet.

Turns out that the water connection to the tank was pretty clugy. Check
this out, step by step:

Long Copper pipe literally hangs down from the ceiling joists,
threaded fitting sweated onto end of Copper pipe,
shut-off screwed onto fitting,
short, threaded, black iron pipe screwed into shut-off,
elbow screwed into black iron,
horizontal copper sweated into elbow,
elbow sweated into other end of horizontal Copper,
Some kind of fitting, possibly compression, bodged onto elbow,
finally into tank.

I managed to get the shut-off replaced with a ball valve without too much
trouble. I managed to get the guts of the tank changed with a lot of
work, having to cut and tare out some of the old parts. I could not get
the funky assembly described above to go back into the new tank connection
without leaking rather impressively. So, we are at a draw at the moment,
but I intend on replacing most of that assembly with a flexible hose.

Nearly panicked when in an attempt to identify what branch of my house
plumbing has a slow leak, I turned off a shut-off and it proceeded to gush
water like a hose. I got the main valve for the house shut and messed
around with the shut-off for a while and cranked it open again and it
seems to be happy for the time being

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Solderless plumbing

[Lenny McHugh]

Sounds pretty good, just wonder how you would un-solder the fitting if need be.
- Original Message - 
From: Bob Kennedy 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:19 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Solderless plumbing


Here is a link in case anyone is interested in working with copper pipes 
without having to fire up the torch... You will probably have to copy and paste 
the link as it is huge but I copied and pasted it in my browser and it works.

https://commerce.vertex.net/justforcopper/product_detail.asp?
sku=HSB001&catID=&sID=F236N391N41X8GNEL5F0XU4RHE1587G2

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

[David W Wood]

Hi Bob:

I enjoy plumbing also.

as the name is derived from the latin word for Lead (plumbum) I find it odd 
that they have removed lead from solder!

i find the lead-free solder difficult to use, so where possible use either 
compression or push fittings.

David

- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Kennedy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:57 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!


> Always the odd ball, I like plumbing.  It has gotten a bit harder to 
> solder since they have done away with led in the solder but I can still 
> sweat a pipe together.
>
> For those that don't like risking a fire in the house, they now make a 
> solderless compound for copper pipes.  It is much like the C A form of 
> epoxy I use to build golf clubs with.  It comes in a can and you brush it 
> on like the stuff used with PVC.  Great idea for places where a torch is 
> dangerous.  I'll find the link and send it along later.
>
>
>  - Original Message - 
>  From: David Ferrin
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 1:45 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!
>
>
>  The question is who if anybody likes plumbing actually. Oh the joys of
>  owning a home.
>  David Ferrin
>  www.jaws-users.com
>  - Original Message - 
>  From: Dan Rossi
>  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 1:39 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!
>
>  This weekend was spent in battle with the pipes. The war was waged on two
>  fronts, the kitchen faucet, and an unused toilet in the basement.
>
>  the faucet had the upper hand for a while, but it now lays in many pieces
>  at the bottom of my trash. Score one for the blind guy!
>
>  This was an old faucet with three separate mountings, one each for the 
> two
>  taps, and one for the faucet itself. I spent a lot of time under the sink
>  with the mother of all basin wrenches trying to get the nuts off the taps
>  to no avail. I tried taking them out from above, but there was no way to
>  grab onto the little collars, which also happened to be puttied to the
>  sink surface. Much to Teresa's dismay, I, screaming that I would exact my
>  vengeance on the faucet, ran to the basement and retrieved my Dremel.
>  Several broken cutting disks later, after much prying, cursing and
>  snarling, the taps and faucet were removed from the sink and the sink
>  surface was not marred from the Dremel.
>
>  Of course, after I slid the new faucet in place, the flex tubes attached
>  to the faucet were not long enough to reach the shut-offs under the sink.
>  That meant, not surprisingly, another trip to the store, but that had to
>  wait until Sunday.
>
>  Sunday morning I took a closer look at the toilet in the basement. This
>  is a cruddy old toilet stuck in the corner of the basement with a plywood
>  wall on none side and a partial plywood door. These are very common in
>  Pittsburgh. The guts of the tank were completely rusted and broken and
>  since the shut-off to the toilet didn't actually shut the water off, 
> there
>  had been a paint can wedged into the tank to keep the fill valve closed.
>  I had upgraded the paint can to a 20 pound dumbell but figured I should
>  probably fix the shut-off and take care of the tank guts while I was at
>  it.
>
>  Off to the store. We found some flexible tubes to extend the faucet lines
>  and I installed them as soon as we got home. Had a lot of trouble getting
>  the sprayer attachment threaded onto the under-side of the faucet, but
>  Teresa eventually got her hands in there and got it tightened down. New
>  faucet, with a single handle, works fine, of course, the brand new, $108
>  faucet has an itty bitty drip.
>
>  Back down to the basement to lead the attack on the toilet.
>
>  Turns out that the water connection to the tank was pretty clugy. Check
>  this out, step by step:
>
>  Long Copper pipe literally hangs down from the ceiling joists,
>  threaded fitting sweated onto end of Copper pipe,
>  shut-off screwed onto fitting,
>  short, threaded, black iron pipe screwed into shut-off,
>  elbow screwed into black iron,
>  horizontal copper sweated into elbow,
>  elbow sweated into other end of horizontal Copper,
>  Some kind of fitting, possibly compression, bodged onto elbow,
>  finally into tank.
>
>  I managed to get the shut-off replaced with a ball valve without too much
>  trouble. I managed to get the guts of the tank changed with a lot of
>  work, having to cut and tare out some of the old parts. I could not get
>  the funky assembly described above to go back into the new tank 
> connection
>  without leaking rather impressively. So, we are at a draw at the moment,
>  but I intend on replacing most of that assembly with a flexible hose.
>
>  Nearly panicked when in an attempt to identify what branch of my house
>  plumbing has a slow leak, I turned off a shut-off and it proceeded to 
> gush
>  water like a hose. I got the ma