Re: [BlindHandyMan] Estimating Appliance and Home Electronic Energy Use
It's fine to discuss such a thing on here. David Ferrin List owner www.jaws-users.com - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 12:35 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Estimating Appliance and Home Electronic Energy Use I didn't mean to start an off topic thread. But, it's really true. it is thirty-two cents here on the Big Island of Hawaii in the town of Hilo. At 06:28 PM 1/19/2008, you wrote: it's .13 here in Phila. But hawaii is an island chain, I'd not be surprised if it's .32 there. On Fri, 18 Jan 2008, Jerry Richer wrote: $0.32 per KilowattHour sounds awfully high. I pay 2.64 cents per KilowattHour. What I pay is amongst the lowest in the United States but it comes through some deal that the municipalities here were offered a hundred years ago. My town and three or four others are the only ones who took the deal. The power company is owned by the village and they get the power from National Grid. Five miles away they pay 16 cents per KilowattHour. I am in Tupper Lake, Northern New York State. The power here is so cheap that most people even heat through our long cold Winters with electricity. Jerry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Save Energy, Eliminate Phantom Loads
this is all absolutely true, but being me, I have one possible caviat. some things like T.V.s might just loose there memories when turned off, particularly older units. Most modern stuff should store chanels, favorites and the like in flash memory that requires no backup power, but I have seen equipment that lost its settings when unplugged and had no battery backup. Not fatal but could be annoying Feel them wall warts, if they're warm when the device is off, you're making heat you may not want to pay for. Tom
[BlindHandyMan] Cleaning with Vinegar
Source: http://www.vinegartips.com/cleaning/ To shine chrome sink fixtures that have a lime buildup, use a paste made of 2 tablespoons salt and 1 teaspoon white distilled vinegar. Make your own scouring cleanser by combining 1/4 cup baking soda with 1 tablespoon liquid detergent. Add just enough white distilled vinegar to give it a thick but creamy texture. Clean counter tops and make them smell sweet again with a cloth soaked in undiluted white distilled vinegar. Clean and deodorize a drain by pouring in 1 cup baking soda, then one cup hot white distilled vinegar. Let this sit for 5 minutes or so then run hot water down the drain. Deodorize the garbage disposal by pouring in 1/2 cup baking soda and 1/2 cup hot white distilled vinegar. Let sit for 5 minutes then run hot water down the disposal. Deodorize and clean the garbage disposal with white distilled vinegar ice cubes. Make them by freezing full-strength white distilled vinegar in an ice cube tray. Run several cubes down the disposal while flushing with cold water. Clean the microwave by mixing 1/2 cup white distilled vinegar and 1/2 cup water in a microwave-safe bowl. Bring it to a rolling boil inside the microwave. Baked-on food will be loosened, and odors will disappear. Wipe clean. Clean the shelves and walls of the refrigerator with a half-and-half solution of water and white distilled vinegar. Cut the grime on the top of the refrigerator with a paper towel or cloth and full-strength white distilled vinegar. Avoid the bad smell when you heat up a newly cleaned oven by using a sponge soaked in diluted white distilled vinegar for the final rinse. To clean a grease splattered oven door window, saturate it with full-strength white distilled vinegar. Keep the door open for 10 to 15 minutes before wiping with a sponge. Remove soap buildup and odors from the dishwasher by pouring a cup of white distilled vinegar inside the empty machine and running it through a whole cycle. Do monthly. To prevent good glassware from getting etched by minerals, wash then spray with full-strength white distilled vinegar. Give the glasses a hot water rinse before letting them dry or drying them with a towel. For cloudy glassware, soak paper towels or a cloth in full-strength white distilled vinegar and wrap around the inside and outside of the glass. Let sit awhile before rinsing clean. Get rid of lime deposits in a tea kettle by adding 1/2 cup white distilled vinegar to the water and letting it sit overnight. If more drastic action is needed, boil full-strength white distilled vinegar in the kettle a few minutes, let cool and rinse with plain water. Remove mineral deposits from coffee makers with white distilled vinegar. Fill the water reservoir with 1 cup or more of white distilled vinegar and run it through a whole cycle. Run it once or twice more with plain water to rinse clean. (Check the owners' manual first.) Remove stains from coffee and teacups by scrubbing them gently with equal parts of salt (or baking soda) and white distilled vinegar. Rinse clean. For stained and smelly plastic food containers, wipe them with a cloth dampened with white distilled vinegar. Remove odors from a lunch box by placing inside a slice of bread that has been soaked in white distilled vinegar. Leave overnight. Remove ugly film in narrow-necked glass jars, flower vases, and bottles by letting undiluted white distilled vinegar sit in them for a few hours. Add a little rice or sand and shake vigorously to loosen stubborn stains. Repeat if necessary. To clean tarnished brass, copper, and pewter, use a paste with equal amounts of white distilled vinegar and table salt. Make a metal cleanser by adding enough white distilled vinegar to 2 tablespoons of cream of tartar to make a paste. Rub it on and let it dry on the surface. Wash it off and dry with a soft cloth. Polish brass and copper with a mixture of 2 tablespoons of ketchup and 1 tablespoon white distilled vinegar. Rub it on with a clean cloth until dry and shiny. Remove dark stains on an aluminum pot by boiling a mixture of 1 cup white distilled vinegar and 1 cup hot water. Discourage ants by spraying undiluted white distilled vinegar outside doorways and windowsills, around appliances and wherever you find the pests coming in. Get rid of fruit flies by setting out a small dish of undiluted white distilled vinegar. Clean the wheel of a can opener using white distilled vinegar and an old toothbrush. Remove the smell of spoiled food from a refrigerator by first rinsing the area with soap and water. Spray surfaces with full-strength white distilled vinegar and wipe them down with a damp cloth or sponge. Fill some containers with baking soda and place inside. Close the door and leave for a few days. Wipe grease off exhaust fan grids, the inside of your oven, or anywhere grease gathers with a sponge soaked in white distilled vinegar. To make cleaning the grill easier, spray a
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Estimating Appliance and Home Electronic Energy Use
Jerry, as young kids Geno and I lived Northeast of you in Malone,NY and I now live downstate from you just outside Hudson,NY we hafve the same power company National Grid out of the UK and we are heading close to that 16 cents per K. Hour are Natural gas rates vary from week to week but they seem to stick it to us for the electric. We have a sister who lives outside Hamden,NY and she is paying a rate similar to yours. Lee -- We are now enjoying total mutual interaction in an imaginary hot tub ... Do you Jabber? I do. My JID is: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[BlindHandyMan] Just have a seat
Knowing my luck I would push the red emergency button by mistake if ever in this toilet lol. Enter When The Light Is Green. What's green?! Somehow I don't think that they took in consideration the visually chalanged community. I believe that only about 10% of blind people use Braille. I also don't remember who on list was building a new bathroom but maybe you could get a few ideas here. FACILITIES REVIEW. Greetings, Earthlings. Your New Restroom Is Ready.. NY Times Metropolitan Desk2008-01-11 By MICHAEL WILSON. When New York City's open-armed embrace of tourists finally extends beyond the boundaries of Earth to creatures from outer space, these visitors will find themselves right at home in Madison Square Park's sleek, shiny new public toilet. Indeed, the toilet calls to mind not a port-o-let, but rather the sort of room one imagines adjoined the personal quarters of Capt. James T. Kirk on the Starship Enterprise. It is a 25-cent journey to the future -- and, almost secondarily, a not unpleasant restroom. The restroom was unveiled on Thursday, the first of 20 planned for the city after more than 30 years of false starts and frustrations. It faces Madison Avenue just north of 23rd Street, and at first glance looks like a bus stop shelter. There are two architectural flourishes, both on the roof: a small pyramid of glass, like a little model of the Louvre, and an anachronistic metal stovepipe, reminiscent of a cozy shanty or an old outhouse with a crescent moon carved into the door. But no one goes to a bathroom to look at it. When the green light marked 'vacant' is lit, 25 cents -- coins only, no bills -- starts the visit. What follows is possibly the longest and most awkward 20 to 30 seconds of a person's day. The door slips open like an elevator, but then it stays open, to accommodate those who need extra time getting in. Meanwhile, men and women in suits walk past. It is very difficult to look inconspicuous in a bathroom on a sidewalk in New York with the door open. There is just nothing to do but stand there. And the delay will not please those who are in distress. Finally, the door closes, and the first surprise is the quiet. The walls are padded to dampen street noise, leaving just the hum of a little fan overhead. Six little lights and the skylight in the pyramid cast a neutral glow over the user's home for the next 15 minutes, the maximum time limit. This toilet, which cost more than $100,000, is very spacious, large enough to accommodate a wheelchair. One cannot touch the side walls with arms outstretched. The floor is rubber and, more strikingly, very wet, but not in a bus-station-men's-room way. There is an antiseptic, fresh smell to the place. Sadly, these little surprises are forgotten with the first look at the toilet itself, an imposing, metal, cold-looking receptacle in the corner. There is no little stall around it, and so it looks exposed, like the facilities available in many prisons. It, too, is quite damp, for perfectly good reasons explained later, but the image first evokes a dungeon or a scene from one of the 'Saw' pictures. There is no seat to raise or lower, just the wide rim of the bowl, with covers made of tissue available in a dispenser to the side. Sitting down is a leap of faith, like falling backwards into a stranger's arms at a corporate team-building retreat. Turns out, it is cold. But once settled, the visitor finds the seat the perfect place to take in the room's other amenities. There seem to be as many buttons as on Captain Kirk's bridge. Red buttons, blue buttons, yellow buttons, black and green buttons. The red ones near the door and toilet call the company for help in an emergency. The yellow calls for 'assistance,' presumably something less dire than an emergency, but nonetheless, a situation. Blue flushes. Black dispenses toilet paper. One will quickly familiarize oneself with that button, because the designers have deigned a little 16-inch strip the standard helping of paper. A word to the wise: There is a maximum of just three helpings. Another tip: Do not tarry. A grim yellow light turns on when there are just three minutes remaining, and after that, the door will open. The sink is across the room. The big shocker here is the soap dispenser, which actually emits not a little squirt of soap, but a jet of warm water, with the soap already mixed in. Everything is motion-activated. No knobs anywhere. The warm-air hand dryer seems somewhat slow and weak, especially with that yellow light blinking by the door. Assuming one finishes before the 15 minutes are up, the big green button opens the door. The horns and sirens and chatter of the city return, jarringly. When the visitor steps out, the door shuts again, but the 'occupied' light stays lit. Strange hisses and spraying sounds come from within -- did someone slip past? No, actually, the room is cleaning itself. A robotic arm swings out over the toilet bowl and hits it with disinfectant, while similar jets
[BlindHandyMan] Southern Pine Span Tables for Joists Rafters
Hi All Southern Pine Span Tables for Joists Rafters Below is the Url http://www.southernpine.com/spantables.shtml ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning with Vinegar
These are really great! Thanks for taking the time to forward. I have several handy hints. If anyone would like them, let me know. They are too varied to list here. Betsy At 10:09 AM 1/20/2008, you wrote: Source: http://www.vinegartips.com/cleaning/ To shine chrome sink fixtures that have a lime buildup, use a paste made of 2 tablespoons salt and 1 teaspoon white distilled vinegar. Make your own scouring cleanser by combining 1/4 cup baking soda with 1 tablespoon liquid detergent. Add just enough white distilled vinegar to give it a thick but creamy texture. Clean counter tops and make them smell sweet again with a cloth soaked in undiluted white distilled vinegar. Clean and deodorize a drain by pouring in 1 cup baking soda, then one cup hot white distilled vinegar. Let this sit for 5 minutes or so then run hot water down the drain. Deodorize the garbage disposal by pouring in 1/2 cup baking soda and 1/2 cup hot white distilled vinegar. Let sit for 5 minutes then run hot water down the disposal. Deodorize and clean the garbage disposal with white distilled vinegar ice cubes. Make them by freezing full-strength white distilled vinegar in an ice cube tray. Run several cubes down the disposal while flushing with cold water. Clean the microwave by mixing 1/2 cup white distilled vinegar and 1/2 cup water in a microwave-safe bowl. Bring it to a rolling boil inside the microwave. Baked-on food will be loosened, and odors will disappear. Wipe clean. Clean the shelves and walls of the refrigerator with a half-and-half solution of water and white distilled vinegar. Cut the grime on the top of the refrigerator with a paper towel or cloth and full-strength white distilled vinegar. Avoid the bad smell when you heat up a newly cleaned oven by using a sponge soaked in diluted white distilled vinegar for the final rinse. To clean a grease splattered oven door window, saturate it with full-strength white distilled vinegar. Keep the door open for 10 to 15 minutes before wiping with a sponge. Remove soap buildup and odors from the dishwasher by pouring a cup of white distilled vinegar inside the empty machine and running it through a whole cycle. Do monthly. To prevent good glassware from getting etched by minerals, wash then spray with full-strength white distilled vinegar. Give the glasses a hot water rinse before letting them dry or drying them with a towel. For cloudy glassware, soak paper towels or a cloth in full-strength white distilled vinegar and wrap around the inside and outside of the glass. Let sit awhile before rinsing clean. Get rid of lime deposits in a tea kettle by adding 1/2 cup white distilled vinegar to the water and letting it sit overnight. If more drastic action is needed, boil full-strength white distilled vinegar in the kettle a few minutes, let cool and rinse with plain water. Remove mineral deposits from coffee makers with white distilled vinegar. Fill the water reservoir with 1 cup or more of white distilled vinegar and run it through a whole cycle. Run it once or twice more with plain water to rinse clean. (Check the owners' manual first.) Remove stains from coffee and teacups by scrubbing them gently with equal parts of salt (or baking soda) and white distilled vinegar. Rinse clean. For stained and smelly plastic food containers, wipe them with a cloth dampened with white distilled vinegar. Remove odors from a lunch box by placing inside a slice of bread that has been soaked in white distilled vinegar. Leave overnight. Remove ugly film in narrow-necked glass jars, flower vases, and bottles by letting undiluted white distilled vinegar sit in them for a few hours. Add a little rice or sand and shake vigorously to loosen stubborn stains. Repeat if necessary. To clean tarnished brass, copper, and pewter, use a paste with equal amounts of white distilled vinegar and table salt. Make a metal cleanser by adding enough white distilled vinegar to 2 tablespoons of cream of tartar to make a paste. Rub it on and let it dry on the surface. Wash it off and dry with a soft cloth. Polish brass and copper with a mixture of 2 tablespoons of ketchup and 1 tablespoon white distilled vinegar. Rub it on with a clean cloth until dry and shiny. Remove dark stains on an aluminum pot by boiling a mixture of 1 cup white distilled vinegar and 1 cup hot water. Discourage ants by spraying undiluted white distilled vinegar outside doorways and windowsills, around appliances and wherever you find the pests coming in. Get rid of fruit flies by setting out a small dish of undiluted white distilled vinegar. Clean the wheel of a can opener using white distilled vinegar and an old toothbrush. Remove the smell of spoiled food from a refrigerator by first rinsing the area with soap and water. Spray surfaces with full-strength white distilled vinegar and wipe them down with a damp cloth or sponge. Fill some containers with baking soda and place inside.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Just have a seat
I've seen these in san francisco about 10 years ago... - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: Blind Handyman Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 6:23 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Just have a seat Knowing my luck I would push the red emergency button by mistake if ever in this toilet lol. Enter When The Light Is Green. What's green?! Somehow I don't think that they took in consideration the visually chalanged community. I believe that only about 10% of blind people use Braille. I also don't remember who on list was building a new bathroom but maybe you could get a few ideas here. FACILITIES REVIEW. Greetings, Earthlings. Your New Restroom Is Ready.. NY Times Metropolitan Desk2008-01-11 By MICHAEL WILSON. When New York City's open-armed embrace of tourists finally extends beyond the boundaries of Earth to creatures from outer space, these visitors will find themselves right at home in Madison Square Park's sleek, shiny new public toilet. Indeed, the toilet calls to mind not a port-o-let, but rather the sort of room one imagines adjoined the personal quarters of Capt. James T. Kirk on the Starship Enterprise. It is a 25-cent journey to the future -- and, almost secondarily, a not unpleasant restroom. The restroom was unveiled on Thursday, the first of 20 planned for the city after more than 30 years of false starts and frustrations. It faces Madison Avenue just north of 23rd Street, and at first glance looks like a bus stop shelter. There are two architectural flourishes, both on the roof: a small pyramid of glass, like a little model of the Louvre, and an anachronistic metal stovepipe, reminiscent of a cozy shanty or an old outhouse with a crescent moon carved into the door. But no one goes to a bathroom to look at it. When the green light marked 'vacant' is lit, 25 cents -- coins only, no bills -- starts the visit. What follows is possibly the longest and most awkward 20 to 30 seconds of a person's day. The door slips open like an elevator, but then it stays open, to accommodate those who need extra time getting in. Meanwhile, men and women in suits walk past. It is very difficult to look inconspicuous in a bathroom on a sidewalk in New York with the door open. There is just nothing to do but stand there. And the delay will not please those who are in distress. Finally, the door closes, and the first surprise is the quiet. The walls are padded to dampen street noise, leaving just the hum of a little fan overhead. Six little lights and the skylight in the pyramid cast a neutral glow over the user's home for the next 15 minutes, the maximum time limit. This toilet, which cost more than $100,000, is very spacious, large enough to accommodate a wheelchair. One cannot touch the side walls with arms outstretched. The floor is rubber and, more strikingly, very wet, but not in a bus-station-men's-room way. There is an antiseptic, fresh smell to the place. Sadly, these little surprises are forgotten with the first look at the toilet itself, an imposing, metal, cold-looking receptacle in the corner. There is no little stall around it, and so it looks exposed, like the facilities available in many prisons. It, too, is quite damp, for perfectly good reasons explained later, but the image first evokes a dungeon or a scene from one of the 'Saw' pictures. There is no seat to raise or lower, just the wide rim of the bowl, with covers made of tissue available in a dispenser to the side. Sitting down is a leap of faith, like falling backwards into a stranger's arms at a corporate team-building retreat. Turns out, it is cold. But once settled, the visitor finds the seat the perfect place to take in the room's other amenities. There seem to be as many buttons as on Captain Kirk's bridge. Red buttons, blue buttons, yellow buttons, black and green buttons. The red ones near the door and toilet call the company for help in an emergency. The yellow calls for 'assistance,' presumably something less dire than an emergency, but nonetheless, a situation. Blue flushes. Black dispenses toilet paper. One will quickly familiarize oneself with that button, because the designers have deigned a little 16-inch strip the standard helping of paper. A word to the wise: There is a maximum of just three helpings. Another tip: Do not tarry. A grim yellow light turns on when there are just three minutes remaining, and after that, the door will open. The sink is across the room. The big shocker here is the soap dispenser, which actually emits not a little squirt of soap, but a jet of warm water, with the soap already mixed in. Everything is motion-activated. No knobs anywhere. The warm-air hand dryer seems somewhat slow and weak, especially with that yellow light blinking by the door. Assuming one finishes before the 15 minutes are up, the big green button opens the door. The
[BlindHandyMan] Installing a Drywall Access Panel
Sometimes there is a need to have access to pipes or other things that hide within our homes walls. The easiest way to provide a clean looking solution is to install a plastic access panel. They come in a variety of sizes. Install with only a few simple tools. Can be painted to match your wall. In our example we are building a basement wall. Behind the wall is our waste line clean-out. To be able to access the pipe at a later time we find the smallest access panel we can. Before we installed the piece of drywall covering the pipe we took measurements from the floor up and from the wall on the right side to the center of the pipe fitting. With a drywall saw cut a small opening just to check that the pipe is found. Place the frame of the access panel on the wall and draw a line around the inside of the opening. You will need to cut the opening slightly larger then the line you draw so the frame will fit into the drywall. Now just cut out the drywall. Give the frame a test fit to make sure the opening in the drywall is large enough. Apply Construction adhesive on the back of the frame. Press the frame into place then remove it so you can make sure that adhesive is contacting all around the opening. It is important to have a good glue bond all around the opening because when you use the access panel later the glue will need to withstand the prying needed to get the cover off. Now that we have checked the glue and the panel seems to fit ok insert the frame and then insert the panel cover. You can use a few pieces of tape to hold the cover in place until the construction adhesive drys overnight. Check the directions for your access panel to see how latex paint should be applied. You may not need to use a primer on the plastic so when you prime your wall you should stay away from the access panel. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Installing a Sillcock - Outside Faucet
Most homes will have an outside faucet to hook up your hose in the front and back of your house but sometimes the faucet is not in a good location for watering your garden or washing your car. Here we will cover the steps needed to install a Sillcock. You should have a good understanding of basic plumbing. If you feel this job is outside your basic abilities then you may want to ask a friend to help or have a plumber perform the work. Leaks from plumbing are the most common reason for insurance payments. Most often it is a leaky clothes washer hose or a water heater but if you install a pipe yourself you may need an inspection and you may need to notify your insurance agent. You will need the following tools to complete the job. Copper Pipe Cutter PVC Pipe Cutter or Hack Saw Propane Torch Kit Solder, Plumbers Flux, Sand Paper Pliers Teflon Tape and PVC Glue 1/2? Drill and assorted Drill Bits Rags Eye Protection The first thing we should cover is the difference between a Hose Bib and a Sillcock. The first thing we should cover is the difference between a Hose Bib and a Sillcock. Although they do look some what the same you will notice that the Sillcock has an extended pipe that enters deep into the home. Sillcocks can come in 6? to 12? lengths and you should always pick the longest reasonable size. The reason they are so long is because unlike a Hose Bib where the valve that controls the water is exposed to the outside elements. The Sillcock places the valve at the end of the long pipe. This is so in the winter the valve is protected from freezing. If you own an older home and find that you are constantly repairing your Hose Bibs it might be a good idea to install the longer Sillcock. And for practical reasons Hose Bibs should be reserved for heated areas of your home like a utility hose connection in the basement or on a hot water heater. Ok now we can get started. First we need to find the place on the outside of the home where we want to place the Sillcock. You will want to locate the Sillcock at least a foot in from the corners of the home and away from door openings and not under windows. Our Sillcock will be placed on the front wall of the garage to make it easy to wash the car. At this time the inside of the Garage has not been drywalled so it is a perfect time to run our lines. We are also lucky to have a Utility Sink in the garage so we can tap off of the cold water feed to the sink. Our original lines are CPVC but where the Sillcock enters the garage we will use Copper Pipe because it can withstand the vibration and abuses of connecting and disconnecting a hose. We have selected a 6? Sillcock that will extend out of our 2×4 wall inside the house. This will allow us to cross our corner outside of the wall without need to cut into the framing of the house. First make a hole in the OSB Sheathing from the inside of the house. Press your bit into the siding that covers the outside of the house just far enough that it makes a hole with the centering part of the paddle bit. Then go outside and complete the hole by drilling through the siding. You can now place the Sillcock in the hole and get a better idea how it will sit. We place a 2×4 up against the OSB and toe nail it into the studs on either side. then we to to the outside of the wall and drill back through the 2×4 so the Sillcock can run through it. It is important to properly support the Sillcock so we add a second 2×6 piece under the 2×4 and use it as a ledge. We will anchor our Sillcock and copper pipe to this board. When we are finished this area will be boxed in and drywalled over while still allowing a removable access plate in case we need to service the Sillcock. Here you can see we are prepping the Copper pipe that will connect to the Sillcock. First we cut the pipe to length using a tubing cutter. A hack saw will also work but it is better if you use a Tube Cutter as the cuts will be perpendicular and straight and they will not have the jagged edge that a hack saw leaves. All the parts are cut to size and test fitted. Each piece of copper that is joined, both the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting must be prepped. We use black emery cloth sand paper to remove the oxidation on the area that we want to solder. Just rub the sand paper on the pipe until about 1 inch is clean and bright. Now we have to add some Flux to the areas we want to accept Solder. Flux will let the solder run smoothly on the pipes surface and it will insure that impurities are not introduced when you are soldering. Basically any place you put the flux will get solder on it so use it sparingly but apply it to all parts just like you did with the sand paper. Wires can be soldered with a soldering iron but to join pipe you have to use a propane torch. Read the instructions for your torch before you begin. The Blue Cone inside of the outer yellow orange flame is where
[BlindHandyMan] How to Paint Wood Doors
With proper maintenance a wood door can last as long as metal alternatives. As with any other painting project prep work is 70% of the job. The actual painting of the door will not take long but you should follow a few basic steps to get the best finish. First you must decide if you can remove the door. This is the best option because it will give you easy access to sand and paint. A door placed horizontally will also have less chance of paint runs. If you can not remove the door to paint it because of security or other reasons you should take care to let others know you are painting and that the paint will be wet for some time after you finish your work. Interior doors are very easy to remove. First open the door and remove the lock set and knob. To remove the knob you will need a philips head screw driver. First remove the plate covering the throw. Next on the locking side of the door remove the two long screws that hold the knobs in place. Remove one side of the knob and carefully inspect how the knob assembly is installed. Make notes or a diagram if needed. This is a relatively easy process but if you have never done this it is good to take notice. Now with a chisel or large flat head screwdriver remove the pins that hold the hinges on. Since the hinge side that is attached to the door may become lose if you remove the screws that hold the plate to the door it is not suggested that you remove this part but you can use masking tape to protect it from sanding and painting. Now that the door is removed you should inspect and repair the door jam. It is important to have the jam finished before the door so you can reinstall the door without problems. If needed apply any wood filler to repair dents, glue, caulk and fasten any loose moldings. Sand the jam for paint using a 220 sand paper and apply the thinest coat of paint that you can while providing full coverage. If you have many layers of old paint on the door you may want to use a liquid stripper to remove the paint. Be careful when removing or sanding paint that you know to be older then 1975 because there is a good chance that it may contain lead. Now that the door jam is done and drying lets get to work on the door. The first thing you need to do is inspect the door for damage. If it is an exterior door check the bottom for rot. Check the hinges, If they are lose then you may need to remove the hinge bracket and repair the wood. Small dents can be repaired with wood filler. Larger damage may require that you cut in a new piece of wood. Auto body filler is also a good product for repairing rot. Filler with Fiberglass fibers will add toughness. Once you have repaired the structure of the door you can begin sanding. Start with a 220 grit sand paper and feather all paint to an even surface. Remove the dust with a dry towel, brush and vacuum cleaner. Begin by painting the deepest portion of any raised panel inserts Wipe away any drips then work on the center of the panels and the rails and styles If you are painting many doors you may want to setup a production line you can use a roller that has been washed to remove any lose fibers to apply paint to the door then follow up with a lightly loaded brush to give the wood a finished look. It is important to cover all of the edges of the door with paint so that moisture won't enter the door and cause it to warp and swell. High humidity in the summer months will cause doors to stick on their jams. Now we haven't covered painting around glass in doors. If you have a door with glass you have 2 options either you can mask the glass off or you can paint and cleanup later. New doors will come with a plastic protective covering on the glass that you can leave in place then remove after painting. But on older doors the easiest method is to use a small half inch brush to paint the mutton dividers and expect that a small amount will get on the glass. Allow the paint to dry and come back with a sharp razor blade held at an angle to the glass and scrape away the paint. It is also good practice to have a little bit of paint cover the gap between the glass and the wood or caulking. This way you get a good seal. You don't want too much paint on the glass about a 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch is more then enough. To findout about paint choices check our other howtos but it is best practice to paint your doors with a gloss paint to improve wear. And Exterior doors will require exterior paint. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have
[BlindHandyMan] Intro and question.
For a lot of you this will be a re-introduction. My name is Alan Wheeler and I live in Lincoln, Nebraska where I am currently attending the University of Nebraska Lincoln. Now for my question: Am I recalling correctly that there is this adhesive sheeting you can put in cupboards that deters little critters from making a home inside them? Alan D Wheeler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Messenger: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype: redwheel1 http://alan-wheeler.blogspot.com/ http://reporter-guy.livejournal.com/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Intro and question.
What do you do if it is ants or roaches? Alan D Wheeler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Messenger: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype: redwheel1 http://alan-wheeler.blogspot.com/ http://reporter-guy.livejournal.com/ _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 10:40 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Intro and question. Allen, Welcome. What kind of critters are you trying to keep out? If it is ants or roaches, the answer is differnet than mice. At 05:06 PM 1/20/2008, you wrote: For a lot of you this will be a re-introduction. My name is Alan Wheeler and I live in Lincoln, Nebraska where I am currently attending the University of Nebraska Lincoln. Now for my question: Am I recalling correctly that there is this adhesive sheeting you can put in cupboards that deters little critters from making a home inside them? Alan D Wheeler [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:awheeler%40neb.rr.com rr.com Messenger: awheeler1965@ mailto:awheeler1965%40sbcglobal.net sbcglobal.net Skype: redwheel1 http://alan- http://alan-wheeler.blogspot.com/ wheeler.blogspot.com/ http://reporter- http://reporter-guy.livejournal.com/ guy.livejournal.com/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio. http://acbradio.org/handyman.html org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio. ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday .org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail- http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/ users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Intro and question.
Allen, Welcome. What kind of critters are you trying to keep out? If it is ants or roaches, the answer is differnet than mice. At 05:06 PM 1/20/2008, you wrote: For a lot of you this will be a re-introduction. My name is Alan Wheeler and I live in Lincoln, Nebraska where I am currently attending the University of Nebraska Lincoln. Now for my question: Am I recalling correctly that there is this adhesive sheeting you can put in cupboards that deters little critters from making a home inside them? Alan D Wheeler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Messenger: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype: redwheel1 http://alan-wheeler.blogspot.com/ http://reporter-guy.livejournal.com/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Little mor on Smart Strips
I just did some searching looking for the product. Several sites have discontinued the product. The Amazon reviews turned me off, no pun intended. It seams that when it works it is great but often you need to tweak it in order for it to turn off other peripherals. I would have no idea if these things actually turned off or not. I have a surge protector with a master switch that I will continue to use. - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 2:45 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Little mor on Smart Strips The public has a vast amount of computer peripherals available to them. Most computer systems now have at least a monitor, scanner, printer, DSL/Cable modem and a USB hub. While the computer is turned off, each peripheral still draws an idle current of 50 mA to 400 mA per hour. Multiply that by the number of peripherals you have, and the number of hours you leave them plugged in (usually 24 hours a day, 7 days a week), and you can see how that 'idle current' can really add up on your bill! Just a printer and a monitor can draw as much in idle current as a 60-watt light that is on 24/7. Would you leave a 60W or greater lamp on 24 hours a day? ...you shut everything off: If you shut everything off, you will enjoy the benefits of the Smart Strip even more. 1. No more waiting for the computer to turn off. 2. No more bending over to turn off your power strip. 3. All those peripherals that do not have a power switch can now also be turned off. 4. Did you know that all those plug in transformers have a leakage current? Even if the device that they are attached to is turned off, a transformer has a leakage current of more than 4 watts. The Smart Strip stops leakage current. The only surge protector that pays for itself. The Smart Strip Power Strip is the only surge protector on the market today with energy saving electronics. The amount you save depends on your usage patterns and your computer. Tests conducted by an independent computer consulting company showed that the Smart Strip Power Strip can save enough energy to pay for itself in as little as six weeks. It also showed that it can save up to $20.00 per month on your electric bill. Use it to control your computer or TV entertainment system -- and the Smart Strip Power Strip will PAY FOR ITSELF in energy savings over time. The only power strip that helps environment. ENERGY STAR studies show that if every home office replaced all their the computer equipment with ENERGY STAR labeled computer equipment, it would save 219 billion pounds of greenhouse gases. While ENERGY STAR does not have a category for energy saving power strips, by using the Smart Strip Power Strip on your existing computer system, you will save more than just energy and greenhouse gases. You will be keeping more computers out of the landfills. Consider the fact the office computers far out number home computers and that most offices leave their computers on 24/7 and this simple solution when used on all computers equates to being a BIG part of the solution for the Energy Crisis. It's cheaper then a standard surge protector. Our power strip costs less than most of the top-end surge protectors (1250 joules or more). This translates into you getting the energy savings electronics for free and still paying a lower price for the Smart Strip's top-end surge protector. Top of the line surge protection. Most surge protectors come with 1250 joules or less of surge protection. Smart Strip comes with 2225 joules, almost double the industry average. All Surge protectors have 1 fuse, Smart Strip has 4 different fuses. Each one responsible for a different Task. Then using one simple indicator Smart Strip monitors the status of the entire surge protector and the ground. This means your computer is protected twice as much as the average surge protector on the market. Best noise filtering on the market. The Smart Strip Power Strip is the only surge protector that uses noise filtering chokes that other companies leave it out because they consider it too expensive. The chokes eliminate high frequency spikes that film capacitors in standard surge protector do not catch. This adds a second layer of protection for your equipment, as well as optimizing the strip's performance. More outlets, more power, more space. Our power strip has ten outlets, including 4 transformer outlets. This give you plenty of room to plug in ALL of those gadgets that you have for your computer or home entertainment system. 15 amps of continous power handling means that anything your standard wall outlet can handle, our power strip can handle. Smart design is full of features. The intelligent design for the Smart Strip isn't limited to its internal circuitry. The strip itself was designed especially for ease of use: List of 3 items . Simple red status indicator light clearly indicates when Smart Switching
