Re: more info:Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

2008-02-15 Thread Bob Kennedy
If both need to be shortened I would think about making a drill guide from 
wood.  Using your drill press, drill a hole through a piece of wood with the 
hole having the same diameter as the bolt already used.  Cut the length of wood 
so that it lines up with a reference point you can repeat.  Like the top of the 
platform after shortening or the end of the handle tube after you decide how 
much to remove.  Using a thicker piece like 2 by 2 will keep the drill bit 
straight while drilling with a hand held drill.  If you aren't sure about the 
length to make the guide, you can drill a smaller hole to use as a pilot hole 
to ease through the metal for the first hole.   Then you can use a combination 
square to set the reference length.  That way the square can be set at one 
distance and locked so you don't have to keep measuring.  The flange on the 
square can be placed at the end of the handle, the guide can be laid over the 
handle tube so the drill bit just touches the end of the rule from the square.  
Then you can drill your first hole.  Just repeat on all other pilot holes and 
then you can free hand the remaining sizes of holes until the bolt fits again.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 11:33 PM
  Subject: Re: more info:Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool


  both the handle and legs must be shortened. The handle goes down to about 
  one inch from the floor and I need to take about 3 inches off the legs.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 10:12 PM
  Subject: Re: more info:Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

  So are you looking to shorten the leg to make it easier to step on for your 
  mom? If that is the plan, you could take the handle off completely and use 
  the hole through the handle as a guide so a hand held drill would stay 
  straight. If I'm understanding the design right. I haven't looked at many 
  stools in the doctor's office other than the neat tools on the table...

  Does it have legs you could take a couple inches off the bottom and replace 
  the feet? Or maybe you could put s midway step on the front made of wood 
  and screwed to the stool to keep it steady.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 8:32 PM
  Subject: more info:Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

  Bob,
  I thought that a 1x2.5 U-bolt would be strong enough to hold the handle to
  the leg. I was just looking for a way to prevent the U-bolt from possibly
  slipping. The stool has bent steel tubing for the legs and the handle is
  also bent steel tubing bolted to the legs.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

  I use epoxy a lot but I'd sure feel safer if it was welded. A pop rivet is
  OK in most cases but we're talking about your mom's safety and if she lost
  her balance she could bend a rivet to the point she would fall off along
  with the handle.

  Are you shortening the handle or the whole stool? If the handle is a tube
  that has been bent around in a U shape and you can take it off you could
  drill through the side of the tube and run a bolt through and put a nut on
  the underneath part of the platform. I'm just having trouble picturing the
  style you have in my head.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: Handyman-Blind
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:04 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

  My mother, age 87, needed a step stool to reach her kitchen cabinet. I
  purchased one like in a doctor's office that is a platform with a support
  handle on the end. This stool is a little too high for to step on. It is a
  little over 9 inches high. She would like it lowered to about 6.5 inches.
  Looking at it I really can't just cut it off because the way that the 
  handle
  is affixed. The bottom bolt would end up being removed. The way that it is
  constructed I don't think I can get it under my drill press to make new
  holes.
  I think that I could use some u-bolts to hold it together. To keep the
  U-bolts from sliding I thought about:
  1. plumbers epoxy
  2. drill a hole in the flat part of the U-bolt then drill the leg and use
  a pop rivet
  3. have a friend weld the handle to the stool's leg
  What would be the best recommendation?
  Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
  It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  

Re: [BlindHandyMan] 30 Greatest Movie Cars

2008-02-15 Thread Bob Kennedy
You're right some of their choices are hard to explain.  I've worked on some of 
the same cars so my choices would be different.  I built a few Dodge 
Challengers with 340 engines, worked on the Charger with that 426 hemi, and the 
first Back to the Future car I ever worked on was embarrassing.  For those that 
can't see, the doors don't open like normal doors.  When I opened the driver 
door I didn't know what to think.  Touched the handle and the door pops and 
starts rotating.  I jumped so far backwards because I didn't know where it was 
going I fell over the lift arm.  The whole shop had a laugh on me for that 
display of grace and balance...  BTW the original had a V6 Buick engine in them 
and the body was made of stainless steel instead of aluminum.

And if you ever get a chance to ride the hill where Bullet was filmed in San 
Francisco it's a rush.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: Blind Handyman Listserv 
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 11:49 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] 30 Greatest Movie Cars


  Hi All,

  I just watched a 2 hour special with audio description from England which 
detailed the 30 greatest movie cars of all time, as voted online by people in 
the U. K.

  I have written out the choices below, along with their rank in the show.

  In some cases, I simply listed the movie title, as there were too many cars 
in the movie to note, although I did mention one or two of the cars that were 
in the movie in a few instances.

  In any case, check out the rank and choices below, and it would be 
interesting to see what some of you think.

  Having had sight just under 6 years ago, I know each and everyone of these 
cars, as I have watched each and everyone of these movies they speak of with 
sight, so I had a chance to watch the cars they are talking about in action.

  I do have to say, I question some of the choices they made, especially the 
Mini-coops in the Italian Job, but hey, the Brits always had a quirky sense of 
humour, right?

  Anyway, without further ado, here are the 30 top movie cars of all time.

  30. Vanishing Point - 1970 - Dodge Challenger

  29. Grease 1978 - Grease Lightning 

  28. Ronin Peugeot 406

  27. Pretty Woman Lotus Esprit

  26. The Car - 1969 Mark 3 Lincoln

  25. The Rock - Ferrari versus Hummer on the Streets of San Francisco

  24. Ghostbusters 1959 Cadillac Ambulance

  23. Triple X Starring Vin Diesel

  22. American Graffiti 1956 White Ford Thunderbird and the 1932 Ford 

  21. The Fast and The Furious

  20. The Living Daylights - Timothy Dalton - Aston Martin V8 with Skis and 
Rocket Booster

  19. Stephen King's Christine - 1958 Dodge Fury

  18. Ferris Beuller's Day Off - Ferrari 250 GT California Spider

  17. Chitti Chitti Bang Bang

  16. Thelma and Louise - Ford Thunderbird

  15. Blues Brothers -Bluesmobile - 'Nuff Said!!!

  14. Austen Powers: International Man of Mystery - The Shaguar

  13. The Spy Who Loved Me - Lotus Esprit Submarine Car Driven by Roger Moore

  12. Starsky and Hutch - Grand Torino

  11. Mad Max - 1973 Ford Falcon XBGT Coupe Also Known As The Interceptor

  10. Walt Disney's Herbie - Volkswagen Beetle

  9. Cannonball Run - Lamborghini Countach Driven by Adrienne Barbeau in a 
leather jump suit...Can't say enough about it

  8. Batman - 1989 Batmobile, as envisioned by Tim Burton

  7. Smokey and the Bandit - Pontiac Firebird Trans-am

  6. Too Fast Too Furious 1970 Dodge Charger with 426 Hemi and Honda S 2000 
with Nitrous Oxide

  5. The Italian Job - Mini-cooper S Driven by a then Michael Caine without a 
license at the time

  4. Gone in 60 Seconds - Eleanor 1967 Ford Shelby Mustang GT 500 with 7 
Litre Engine, 390 horsepower, 420 cubic Inch Engine and gun metal paint job

  3. Goldfinger - 1965 Aston Martin DB5 with Ejector Seat...Bond: Ejector 
Seat?...You're Joking... Q: I never joke about my work double-O seven

  2. Back to the Future - The Delorean Time Machine...Need I say More?

  And the number one Movie car to be voted on by people in the United Kingdom?

  1. Bullit - Steve McQueen in a 1968 Ford Mustang Fastback, 390 GT

  Victor Gouveia

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Talking torque wrench

2008-02-15 Thread Bob Kennedy
For those that are interested, I found this site.  The company is Compusult web 
site is compusult.net and here is their ad.  No price info without calling...

 - The Talking Torque Wrench
Overview

Compusult's SpeakFAST provides access to FAST Technologies Sensor System 1000 
torque wrench for blind and visually impaired users. SpeakFAST is a compact, 
unobtrusive system that captures data from the System 1000 torque wrench and 
converts it to equivalent speech output. 

The SpeakFAST unit is used in conjunction with a modified FAST Technology 
Series 1000 torque meter and sensor to provide speech output of torque readings 
for visually impaired users. The two units are connected together and mated 
into one unit. The picture below shows the SpeakFAST unit connected to the FAST 
Technology torque meter. The unit is fully portable and provides speech output 
through a headphone interface.

 
The SpeakFAST Unit and FAST Technology Torque Meter

Features:

  a.. Simple and elegant speech solution. 
  b.. Works with either headphones or amplified speakers. 
  c.. Economical, easy to install and maintain. 
  d.. Powered by a single 9 volt alkaline battery. 
  e.. Over 20 voice responses. 
  f.. Increases safety and independence for visually impaired employees. 
Features and specifications of the FAST Technology Sensor System Series 1000

  a.. Turns ordinary wrench into precision torque setting system 
  b.. Excellent price performance ratio 
  c.. Compact ergonomic portable design 
  d.. Instantaneous measurement through digital meter 
  e.. 1/2 Square Drive 
  f.. Measurement range: ± 150 Nm (111 Lb.ft) und ± 200 Nm (150 Lb.ft) 
  g.. Rotary shaft 
  h.. Digital meter with LCD display 
  i.. Target mode with acoustic alarm 
  j.. Peak value hold 
  k.. Operating temperature range from +5 °C to +50°C 
  l.. Precision  3% 


please send e-mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Car repair.

2008-02-15 Thread Rhonda Steve
i use head phones when its to loud 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 9:12 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Car repair.


  Yeah, I am sure you can't hear much in the pits, but for my own shop,
  rebuilding engines, torquing my tires after rotating etc, a talking torque
  wrench would be great.
  Michael


  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:28 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Car repair.

  Many times especially when working in the pit area I would much rather have
  something I can feel rather than depend on a quiet minute to torque wheels
  or reset four-links.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 6:24 PM
  To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Car repair.

  Seriously?
  What's the brand and model?
  Michael

  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Rhonda  Steve
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 5:18 PM
  To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Car repair.

  yes i do mine talks cool huh
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 5:57 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Car repair.

  Do either one of you have any experience with Snap-on's digital torque
  wrench? My old click type is just about ready for social security and I'm
  thinking one of those new digital ones would be handy.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
  Rhonda  Steve
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 3:46 PM
  To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Car repair.

  now that sounds like something my help would say lol

  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 8:18 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Car repair.

  Well my day job is a paid day off. My computer blew up and I'm off until
  they find me a new one... Not a bad way to make a living if you can find it.

  Lucky for me today is the day for the Snap-On man to be in the neighborhood
  and I am replacing my air ratchet today. Talk to ya later

  - Original Message - 
  From: Rhonda  Steve 
  To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:41 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Car repair.

  nice car they don't make them like they use to huh
  that's about how fast my vet runs
  the way i look at it if some one don't like what i'm saying well don't
  listen have a good day off to work 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 6:31 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Car repair.

  One thing you don't have to worry about is being offensive. I've been around
  a long time and I don't take much personally any longer. But there are
  people on the list that will jump on something just to have something to
  say. 

  I used to have a drag car about 30 years back. Never got into the alcohol
  side though. I had a 68 Camaro with a 427 30 over with lots and lots of time
  and money it it. That's going way back and it would run a high 9 to 10
  second quarter. Seems like a turtle compared to today. But top fuel was only
  running 6 to 6.2 then too...

  Getting ready for work right now but we'll talk more...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rhonda  Steve 
  To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 10:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Car repair.

  nice now we are getting some where I have a 1967 Shelby GT500, tubbed tube
  chassis. I have a 540 alcohol-blown Chevy motor. *grin* I've been into the
  building  racing thing for quite some time now. I currently work as an auto
  tech. It's nice to see other totally blind folks doing the same thing, no
  offense intended.

  Steve

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@ 

[BlindHandyMan] universal remote

2008-02-15 Thread Michael Baldwin
Hi,
Looking for suggestions for a good universal remote.  I am tired of having 5
different remotes around.  A few I have are kind of universal, but they will
not control everything.  I looked at the Logitech Harmony remotes, but those
seem kind of spendy, and I do not need to control 15 different things.
Thanks for your advice.
Michael
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] 30 Greatest Movie Cars

2008-02-15 Thread Rhonda Steve
yes to days cars suck if you ask me
i shirr do miss those days when you could go in to a dealer and have a car set 
up the way you wanted
i say bring them back if you can't afford to drive them well its simple stay 
home
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 6:10 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] 30 Greatest Movie Cars


  You're right some of their choices are hard to explain. I've worked on some 
of the same cars so my choices would be different. I built a few Dodge 
Challengers with 340 engines, worked on the Charger with that 426 hemi, and the 
first Back to the Future car I ever worked on was embarrassing. For those that 
can't see, the doors don't open like normal doors. When I opened the driver 
door I didn't know what to think. Touched the handle and the door pops and 
starts rotating. I jumped so far backwards because I didn't know where it was 
going I fell over the lift arm. The whole shop had a laugh on me for that 
display of grace and balance... BTW the original had a V6 Buick engine in them 
and the body was made of stainless steel instead of aluminum.

  And if you ever get a chance to ride the hill where Bullet was filmed in San 
Francisco it's a rush.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: Blind Handyman Listserv 
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 11:49 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] 30 Greatest Movie Cars

  Hi All,

  I just watched a 2 hour special with audio description from England which 
detailed the 30 greatest movie cars of all time, as voted online by people in 
the U. K.

  I have written out the choices below, along with their rank in the show.

  In some cases, I simply listed the movie title, as there were too many cars 
in the movie to note, although I did mention one or two of the cars that were 
in the movie in a few instances.

  In any case, check out the rank and choices below, and it would be 
interesting to see what some of you think.

  Having had sight just under 6 years ago, I know each and everyone of these 
cars, as I have watched each and everyone of these movies they speak of with 
sight, so I had a chance to watch the cars they are talking about in action.

  I do have to say, I question some of the choices they made, especially the 
Mini-coops in the Italian Job, but hey, the Brits always had a quirky sense of 
humour, right?

  Anyway, without further ado, here are the 30 top movie cars of all time.

  30. Vanishing Point - 1970 - Dodge Challenger

  29. Grease 1978 - Grease Lightning 

  28. Ronin Peugeot 406

  27. Pretty Woman Lotus Esprit

  26. The Car - 1969 Mark 3 Lincoln

  25. The Rock - Ferrari versus Hummer on the Streets of San Francisco

  24. Ghostbusters 1959 Cadillac Ambulance

  23. Triple X Starring Vin Diesel

  22. American Graffiti 1956 White Ford Thunderbird and the 1932 Ford 

  21. The Fast and The Furious

  20. The Living Daylights - Timothy Dalton - Aston Martin V8 with Skis and 
Rocket Booster

  19. Stephen King's Christine - 1958 Dodge Fury

  18. Ferris Beuller's Day Off - Ferrari 250 GT California Spider

  17. Chitti Chitti Bang Bang

  16. Thelma and Louise - Ford Thunderbird

  15. Blues Brothers -Bluesmobile - 'Nuff Said!!!

  14. Austen Powers: International Man of Mystery - The Shaguar

  13. The Spy Who Loved Me - Lotus Esprit Submarine Car Driven by Roger Moore

  12. Starsky and Hutch - Grand Torino

  11. Mad Max - 1973 Ford Falcon XBGT Coupe Also Known As The Interceptor

  10. Walt Disney's Herbie - Volkswagen Beetle

  9. Cannonball Run - Lamborghini Countach Driven by Adrienne Barbeau in a 
leather jump suit...Can't say enough about it

  8. Batman - 1989 Batmobile, as envisioned by Tim Burton

  7. Smokey and the Bandit - Pontiac Firebird Trans-am

  6. Too Fast Too Furious 1970 Dodge Charger with 426 Hemi and Honda S 2000 
with Nitrous Oxide

  5. The Italian Job - Mini-cooper S Driven by a then Michael Caine without a 
license at the time

  4. Gone in 60 Seconds - Eleanor 1967 Ford Shelby Mustang GT 500 with 7 
Litre Engine, 390 horsepower, 420 cubic Inch Engine and gun metal paint job

  3. Goldfinger - 1965 Aston Martin DB5 with Ejector Seat...Bond: Ejector 
Seat?...You're Joking... Q: I never joke about my work double-O seven

  2. Back to the Future - The Delorean Time Machine...Need I say More?

  And the number one Movie car to be voted on by people in the United Kingdom?

  1. Bullit - Steve McQueen in a 1968 Ford Mustang Fastback, 390 GT

  Victor Gouveia

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Speaker wiring (fwd)

2008-02-15 Thread spiro

there's another idea.
if in case you are using separate amps for the front, back, center etc; you can 
buy a cheap mixer from places like
zzounds.com
I would suggest a 4 channel Behringer.
What you will do at that point is take the back channel leads from receiver to 
back channel amp, and the leads from computer leads and blend them to your 
liking before going out of the mixer to the back channel amp.
this will put less load on your sound card, avoid buying another amp, and be 
less strain on all gear in case of a mistake.
You can always do either
a. mono out of computer and nto mixer, blending computer to one or both sides.
b. stereo out of computer split into left and right, or blended both into mono, 
or into one side.
or you might choose to do this with only one side of the rear signal. However, 
that last option, though maybe simpler, will change the sound of one rear 
speaker when listening to the big movie sound as one back channel is going 
through extra gear and the other is not.
How much farther did you get with it?
I'll follow the thread to help.


On Thu, 7 Feb 2008, Dan Rossi wrote:

  I see Roger,

  You want to hear them at the same time.  Listen to what Spiro had to say.
  Mostly, your computer sound card won't have the juice to power any big
  speakers.  If you go with the switchbox thing, you may have to put an amp
  inline from the computer.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081



[BlindHandyMan] How do you rework an old electric guitar?

2008-02-15 Thread Matt
Mine is not an old guitar in my opinion.
It's a Japanese knock off of the fender stradacaster which I bought when I was 
16 or so and I am now 37, so it's old, but not pre plastic or anything ya know?
hahaha,
My question is, could I possibley rework it myself?
Replace wiring and such if necessary, or should I just finally invest in a new 
guitar?

Thanks,

Matt

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Electrolysis

2008-02-15 Thread Gil Laster
A few weeks ago an article about using electrolysis to clean corroded metals 
was posted.  I was unaware that a car battery and patience could render 
terrific results.

I have a 30-year-old garden tiller with a tine hub that has been frozen onto 
the power axel for over 10-years.  I decided to clean up the machine and I was 
going to get that stubborn hub off.  My first attempt with a 6-inch wheel 
puller broke the puller.  With a new puller I then tried penetrating oil, 
hammering and heat.  That did not work either.  Then I tried the electrolysis.  
After 6-days of the hub/axel brewing I finally pulled it apart today.

Thank you for that post about electrolysis.

- Gil Laster
Charlotte, NC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Alkaline Batteries?

2008-02-15 Thread spiro
there are extremely slow chargers that can do this, you get maybe another 
full use but it's a diminishing return each time you charge them you get 
less.
but hey, it's better than a one shot deal.

On Thu, 14 Feb 2008, Claudia wrote:

 Hi,

 For those of you who are battery experts out there, can alkaline batteries
 be recharged?  I just purchased some, to get me through the immediate
 problem I had of not having enough batteries for a particular toy, but I was
 told that alkalines can be recharged?

 If this is the case, I found a battery charger at Walmart that charges all
 types, except the 9-volt ones, I think?
 Thanks.


 Claudia

 Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while
 the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Alkaline Batteries?

2008-02-15 Thread spiro
industrial batteries will not leak in this way.

On Thu, 14 Feb 2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 these batteries can only be topped up not completely recharged and require a 
 special charger and can only be topped up a few times before the seals start 
 leaking more trouble than its worth so buy proper rechargeables  and save 
 money
  - Original Message -
  From: Claudia
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 10:55 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Alkaline Batteries?


  Hi,

  For those of you who are battery experts out there, can alkaline batteries
  be recharged? I just purchased some, to get me through the immediate
  problem I had of not having enough batteries for a particular toy, but I was
  told that alkalines can be recharged?

  If this is the case, I found a battery charger at Walmart that charges all
  types, except the 9-volt ones, I think?
  Thanks.

  Claudia

  Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while
  the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]





 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking torque wrench

2008-02-15 Thread Don
Go0od info here, thanks for sending it along.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 6:08 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking torque wrench


  For those that are interested, I found this site. The company is Compusult 
web site is compusult.net and here is their ad. No price info without calling...

  - The Talking Torque Wrench
  Overview

  Compusult's SpeakFAST provides access to FAST Technologies Sensor System 1000 
torque wrench for blind and visually impaired users. SpeakFAST is a compact, 
unobtrusive system that captures data from the System 1000 torque wrench and 
converts it to equivalent speech output. 

  The SpeakFAST unit is used in conjunction with a modified FAST Technology 
Series 1000 torque meter and sensor to provide speech output of torque readings 
for visually impaired users. The two units are connected together and mated 
into one unit. The picture below shows the SpeakFAST unit connected to the FAST 
Technology torque meter. The unit is fully portable and provides speech output 
through a headphone interface.

  The SpeakFAST Unit and FAST Technology Torque Meter

  Features:

  a.. Simple and elegant speech solution. 
  b.. Works with either headphones or amplified speakers. 
  c.. Economical, easy to install and maintain. 
  d.. Powered by a single 9 volt alkaline battery. 
  e.. Over 20 voice responses. 
  f.. Increases safety and independence for visually impaired employees. 
  Features and specifications of the FAST Technology Sensor System Series 1000

  a.. Turns ordinary wrench into precision torque setting system 
  b.. Excellent price performance ratio 
  c.. Compact ergonomic portable design 
  d.. Instantaneous measurement through digital meter 
  e.. 1/2 Square Drive 
  f.. Measurement range: ± 150 Nm (111 Lb.ft) und ± 200 Nm (150 Lb.ft) 
  g.. Rotary shaft 
  h.. Digital meter with LCD display 
  i.. Target mode with acoustic alarm 
  j.. Peak value hold 
  k.. Operating temperature range from +5 °C to +50°C 
  l.. Precision  3% 

  please send e-mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED]


  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] universal remote

2008-02-15 Thread Ray Boyce
Hi Michael

Check this site out where they review many universal remotes and pick the 
one which does the job for you.
http://www.remotecentral.com/
- Original Message - 
From: Michael Baldwin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 3:37 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] universal remote


 Hi,
 Looking for suggestions for a good universal remote.  I am tired of having 
 5
 different remotes around.  A few I have are kind of universal, but they 
 will
 not control everything.  I looked at the Logitech Harmony remotes, but 
 those
 seem kind of spendy, and I do not need to control 15 different things.
 Thanks for your advice.
 Michael



 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.5/1279 - Release Date: 2/14/2008 
6:35 PM



Re: [BlindHandyMan] How do you rework an old electric guitar?

2008-02-15 Thread Scott Howell
Matt, I'd have to say that it really depends upon what's wrong with  
it. I imagine replacing the pickups etc. would not be entirely  
impossible provided your handy with a soldering iron. There is a lot  
if your talking about all the various pots and pickup selector  
switches etc. If you have a real attachment to the instrument and not  
sure you want to dig into the gus, you can find a local shop to do the  
work or even if your just interested in putting some new electronics  
into it. Of course I'd probably muck about with it if I had a spare  
instrument, but currently all my basses work and I'm not taking any  
apaart at this point.:) Good luck, I am curious if it's not working or  
what.

On Feb 15, 2008, at 1:32 PM, Matt wrote:

 Mine is not an old guitar in my opinion.
 It's a Japanese knock off of the fender stradacaster which I bought  
 when I was 16 or so and I am now 37, so it's old, but not pre  
 plastic or anything ya know?
 hahaha,
 My question is, could I possibley rework it myself?
 Replace wiring and such if necessary, or should I just finally  
 invest in a new guitar?

 Thanks,

 Matt

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 

Scott Howell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Almost show time again.

2008-02-15 Thread Don
OK, here we go, a little info on this weeks shows.  On the handy man show, this 
week  Tom Houston reads, and we talk  about some list mail.
Then we talk with a guest that is  a new list member on the handy man list.  
Steve Scott.
Steve is a car guy,  he does  every thing  from, auto repair, to building 
dragsters.  And every thing in between.   We are glad to have another car guy 
on the list.
We can't have too many of those guys, when we need a little advice, when we 
have a car problem, 
Tune in and listen too the things Steve tells us about his life, and what's 
happening. 
On the blind like me show this week,  Phil talks with a young Lady named Sylvia 
Lopez.
She will be talking some about her life, and some of the things she has going 
on.  Second show guests this week Phil talks with both Suzy Barns,, and Bruce 
rittle, about a brand new  happening,   voice chat sight that is just now 
getting up and running.  Tune in and find out all the details about that.
show download links follow.

Handy manhttp://www.sendspace.com/file/ret8cl

Blind like me  http://www.sendspace.com/file/e16xq7

Or you can listen on ACB radio this week end, are you can listen to the show on 
one of your favorite reading radio services, around the States, and Canada,  at 
various times over this week end.
Have a fine week.
Don

 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Cold air falls and warm air rises. Why

2008-02-15 Thread Ray Boyce
Many of us experience the effects of falling cold air and rising warm air on 
a regular basis. It is happening all the time in the air above and around us
and is one of the components in our weather systems. You may notice that 
when there is no heating or air conditioning operating in your house, the 
rooms
upstairs are slightly warmer than those downstairs. Another example is the 
hot air balloon that works precisely to this principle. By heating the air 
inside
the balloon, the craft will be lighter than the surrounding air and will 
rise. This is actually the result of cold air gushing downwards around the 
balloon
at the same time as it is rising.

So why does cold air fall? That is simple: it is heavier than warm air. And 
why is it heavier? That is slightly less simple, but only slightly. As with
any gas, the air (a generic term for the mixture of the gasses in our 
atmosphere), contains molecules that move (or agitate). This movement (or 
agitation)
is greater as the temperature rises. The molecules move in ever greater 
orbits, taking up more space. This causes the mass of the air to expand. 
Although
the total mass of a lump of air has not changed, the mass is more spread out 
and so any given cubic area of it will be lighter. An analogy is found with
popcorn. A half pound of popcorn before being popped may fit into a cup. 
After popping, the same corn would fill a large saucepan. Its total weight 
will
be more or less the same half pound that it always was, but if you filled up 
the original cup with the popped corn, it would weigh less than the unpopped
corn as the rest of it would no longer fit into the cup. Expanding hot air 
is similar. A cup of cold air would weigh more than a cup of hot air.

As we are playing the why game, let's continue. Why do the molecules move 
about more when it is warmer? They absorb energy through electro-magnetic 
waves
that smash into the molecules. In short, this is energy transfer by 
radiation. So we have a collection (several trillion, lets say) of molecules 
that are
very agitated and another collection which are far less agitated. The 
agitated collection is spread out and thus light. The collection that are 
less agitated
is heavier. The heavier stuff falls downwards, while the light stuff rises.

As well as being the main process behind hot air balloons, the movement of 
air according to its temperature is a critical factor with the weather. 
Forecasters
must ensure that these movements are factored into their modelling systems 
in order to produce a decent weather forecast. Air conditioning designers 
and
must also take these factors into account as must architects. In order to 
preserve valuable heat, warm air must be prevented from escaping through the
top of a building. As well as conserving heat, the movement of colder air 
downwards must also be considered when designing refrigerators and 
refrigeration
systems.

If you have a few minutes, try this experiment. Firstly make sure nothing 
has been put into your refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Then, leave a 
thermometer
inside the refrigerator, making sure it is placed at the bottom and then 
close the door. After 10 minutes, open the door and straight away and note 
the
reading on the thermometer. Then place the thermometer on the top shelf and 
close the door. After 10 minutes, take the reading as soon as you open the
door. You will notice a difference - perhaps as much as 1 to 2 degrees. This 
may not be such a big issue for us at home most of the time. For commercial
kitchens, however, this difference maybe critical when ensuring food is kept 
at an optimum temperature. Commercial fridges are often fitted with a fan
that evens out the colder and warmer air, thus negating the tendency for 
cold air to fall and warmer air to rise.

If you take large freezer stores - the ones that hold thousands of boxes of 
stock - the movement of air around the facility is an extremely important 
factor.
The fans that blow frozen air into the store are always situated near to the 
ceiling, allowing it to diffuse downwards. Eventually, of course, the goods
in the freezer store will need to be taken out and moved to another 
location, typically loaded onto a truck. If frozen goods are loaded onto a 
frozen truck
this is no problem. Occasionally though, only a small quantity of frozen 
goods may be needed and the use of a large truck whose temperature is set at 
a
frozen temperature would be wasteful if only a few boxes were being 
despatched. This is where insulated pallet shrouds or roll cage covers come 
into play.
These enclose the pallet or roll cage, protecting frozen goods for up to 8 
hours within an ambient environment (they also protect ambient goods such 
bakery
products and bananas in a chilled or frozen environment). When a roll cage 
is used, the insulated roll cage cover works at its best when the cage is 
full
of products. When it is half full then - you guessed it - the cold air falls 
to the 

[BlindHandyMan] Spray Foam Saves Energy

2008-02-15 Thread Ray Boyce
Every homeowner wants a cozy, comfortable home. And every homeowner wants 
the ability to maintain that comfort at a reasonable cost. That's why all 
building
codes require minimum insulation R-values for specific climate zones. These 
days there are a handful of insulation applications that meet these 
R-values,
but the frontrunner in energy efficiency is the use of spray polyurethane 
foam (SPF).

In fact, there's a lot more to insulation than its R-value. The R-values 
refer to the K-factor of a material. The K factor is the thermal 
conductivity
for a unit thickness of material. However, other factors also affect the 
thermal performance of roof and insulation systems. These other factors 
include
thermal drift, thermal gaps created by mechanical fasteners, poorly 
installed decking, and the effects of air movement on energy usage and 
moisture retention
in roofs. Because an insulation material's R-value represents dry materials 
that are not affected by airflow or moisture, it doesn't take into account
the other aspects of energy performance. For example, fiberglass batt 
insulation may be rated with an adequate R-value, but as the material 
retains moisture
it loses its insulating qualities. In a real world environment, you can 
expect as much as a 30-percent reduction of labeled R-value for thermal 
insulation
materials that are permeable to moisture.

The physical properties of SPF insulation protects against this problem. 
Furthermore, the liquid application of the spray foam requires no fasteners, 
which
means no thermal breaks at the fastener locations.

The bottom line is this: Spray foam insulation addresses R-values, airflow 
and moisture resistance better than other types of insulation. The result is
a savings of up to 60 percent in heating and cooling costs.

Shown is a peek inside the SPF installer's truck, and a look at the 
specialized equipment required to apply the insulation systems.

A Better Thermal Envelope

SPF roofing systems have been around for more than 40 years, but there is 
still a significant lack of knowledge among consumers, as well as many 
roofing
professionals on how to install or maintain these systems. For example, in 
the Birmingham metro area, hometown of Extreme How-To, only two companies 
offer
SPF installation. We recently met with one such company, Thermetix, A 
licensed dealer of Foametix insulation, to check out a whole-house 
installation and
get the first-hand scoop on the benefits of SPF.

While there is a higher upfront cost for the installation of the foam, SPF 
can really cut down on energy bills in the long run, says Ron Brown, 
co-owner
of Thermetix, the company that installs Foametix SPF systems throughout 
Alabama. Although the initial cost of installation could be 3 to 4 times the 
cost
of installing standard fiberglass batts, in as few as five years the 
homeowner can recoup their investment and enjoy lowered utility bills 
throughout the
life of the house. The rigid foam insulation, which is sprayed as a liquid 
and immediately hardens in place, does not settle or sag over time, losing 
its
R-value like fiberglass or cellulose. SPF also has no food value to attract 
insects or rodents.

The rigid SPF insulation is sprayed as a liquid that immediately hardens in 
place.

SPF can expand to about 100 times its original volume to fill air gaps 
between the framing studs in the walls and attic. By conforming to cavity 
shapes
and sealing around wall features, SPF reduces air infiltration much better 
than standard fiberglass batts or reflective barriers. That's a big benefit,
considering that government energy reports estimate 40 to 50 percent of a 
home's heating and cooling loss results from air flowing through the 
building
envelope. Spray foam insulation is also non-toxic and usually has a lifetime 
guarantee. And, as the house expands and contracts over time, so does the
foam insulation. This eliminates cracks and spaces for warm air to escape.

Spray foam is also helpful for people who suffer from allergies, says 
Brown, explaining that the seamless and monolithic layer of insulation 
provides
superb air quality and pathogen growth. Unlike traditional roofing systems 
that require vents in the attic, SPF systems utilize unvented attics. This 
results
in conditioned attic space because the air-impermeable insulation acts as a 
barrier to prevent moisture condensation on the underside of roof decks. 
Vented
attics minimize condensation by allowing the escape of moisture to the 
exterior by air flow. But with this airflow come outdoor allergens and 
pollutants-a
non-issue with an unvented attic in an SPF system.

The most commonly used SPF products are medium-density (2 pound) foam, 
shown right, and low-density (1/2 pound) foam, shown below.

Which Spray Foam is Right for You?

The two most commonly used spray foam products are low-density, open-cell 
SPF (nominally referred to as 1/2 pound) and medium-density, closed-cell 
foam
(2 pound). 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Electrolysis

2008-02-15 Thread Larry Stansifer
Lenny,

If you still have that information, could you send it to me at:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
The original must have gotten hung up in my spam program.

TNX

Larry

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 5:13 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electrolysis


Hi Gil,
I am glad that it helped someone else. The old tool that I had cleaned looks

like new.
It is amazing how science can do the hard work while you sit back and watch.

- Original Message - 
From: Gil Laster [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Post to Blind Handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 3:08 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electrolysis


A few weeks ago an article about using electrolysis to clean corroded metals

was posted.  I was unaware that a car battery and patience could render 
terrific results.

I have a 30-year-old garden tiller with a tine hub that has been frozen onto

the power axel for over 10-years.  I decided to clean up the machine and I 
was going to get that stubborn hub off.  My first attempt with a 6-inch 
wheel puller broke the puller.  With a new puller I then tried penetrating 
oil, hammering and heat.  That did not work either.  Then I tried the 
electrolysis.  After 6-days of the hub/axel brewing I finally pulled it 
apart today.

Thank you for that post about electrolysis.

- Gil Laster
Charlotte, NC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list

just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yahoo! Groups Links






To listen to the show archives go to link  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list
of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links





-- 
BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS
--

Teach InfoWest Spam Trap if this mail (ID 157456864) is spam:
Spam:
https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157456864m=0de5a7501075c=s
Not spam:
https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157456864m=0de5a7501075c=n
Forget vote:
https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157456864m=0de5a7501075c=f
--
END-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS



RE: [Bulk] RE: [BlindHandyMan] Electrolysis

2008-02-15 Thread tunecollector
How about just reposting it instead.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 4:55 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Bulk] RE: [BlindHandyMan] Electrolysis

Lenny,

If you still have that information, could you send it to me at:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:larrys%40infowest.com 
The original must have gotten hung up in my spam program.

TNX

Larry

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 5:13 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electrolysis

Hi Gil,
I am glad that it helped someone else. The old tool that I had cleaned looks

like new.
It is amazing how science can do the hard work while you sit back and watch.

- Original Message - 
From: Gil Laster [EMAIL PROTECTED]
mailto:glaster%40carolina.rr.com 
To: Post to Blind Handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 3:08 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electrolysis

A few weeks ago an article about using electrolysis to clean corroded metals

was posted. I was unaware that a car battery and patience could render 
terrific results.

I have a 30-year-old garden tiller with a tine hub that has been frozen onto

the power axel for over 10-years. I decided to clean up the machine and I 
was going to get that stubborn hub off. My first attempt with a 6-inch 
wheel puller broke the puller. With a new puller I then tried penetrating 
oil, hammering and heat. That did not work either. Then I tried the 
electrolysis. After 6-days of the hub/axel brewing I finally pulled it 
apart today.

Thank you for that post about electrolysis.

- Gil Laster
Charlotte, NC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
http://acbradio.org/handyman.html 
or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ 

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday 

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ 

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/ http://www.jaws-users.com/ 
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list

just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.com 
Yahoo! Groups Links

To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
http://acbradio.org/handyman.html 
or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ 

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday 

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ 

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/
http://www.jaws-users.com/  For a complete list
of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.com  
Yahoo! Groups Links

-- 
BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS
--

Teach InfoWest Spam Trap if this mail (ID 157456864) is spam:
Spam:
https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157456864m=0de5a7501075c=s
https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157456864m=0de5a7501075c=s 
Not spam:
https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157456864m=0de5a7501075c=n
https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157456864m=0de5a7501075c=n 
Forget vote:
https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157456864m=0de5a7501075c=f
https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157456864m=0de5a7501075c=f 
--
END-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS



 



RE: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

2008-02-15 Thread spiro
a U bolt, held to a cross piece by an adjustable washer/clamp?


On Thu, 14 Feb 2008, Larry Stansifer wrote:

 Lenny,

 Is there any way you can clamp up the handle in its new position and drill
 it free-hand?
 Depending on the alloy that stool is constructed from somebody should be
 having a really good day to safely and successfully weld that material for
 you.
 I know that I for one would want a couple of practice pieces before I
 tackled Mom's stool.

 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
 Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 6:25 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool


 I am shorting both. the handle parallels the leg and has two 1/4 stainless
 bolts holding the handle. The bottom bolt is 2 inches from the bottom so
 cutting the leg and handle the bottom bolt is lost.
 - Original Message -
 From: Bob Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:35 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool


 I use epoxy a lot but I'd sure feel safer if it was welded.  A pop rivet is
 OK in most cases but we're talking about your mom's safety and if she lost
 her balance she could bend a rivet to the point she would fall off along
 with the handle.

 Are you shortening the handle or the whole stool?  If the handle is a tube
 that has been bent around in a U shape and you can take it off you could
 drill through the side of the tube and run a bolt through and put a nut on
 the underneath part of the platform.  I'm just having trouble picturing the
 style you have in my head.


  - Original Message -
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: Handyman-Blind
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:04 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool


  My mother, age 87, needed a step stool to reach her kitchen cabinet. I
 purchased one like in a doctor's office that is a platform with a support
 handle on the end. This stool is a little too high for to step on. It is a
 little over 9 inches high. She would like it lowered to about 6.5 inches.
 Looking at it I really can't just cut it off because the way that the handle

 is affixed. The bottom bolt would end up being removed. The way that it is
 constructed I don't think I can get it under my drill press to make new
 holes.
  I think that I could use some u-bolts to hold it together. To keep the
 U-bolts from sliding I thought about:
  1. plumbers epoxy
  2. drill a hole in the flat part of the U-bolt then drill the leg and use
 a pop rivet
  3. have a friend weld the handle to the stool's leg
  What would be the best recommendation?
  Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
  It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 To listen to the show archives go to link  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
 List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

 Visit the archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

 If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
 address for more information:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/
 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list

 just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Yahoo! Groups Links






 To listen to the show archives go to link  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
 List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

 Visit the archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

 If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
 address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list
 of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
 message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Yahoo! Groups Links





 -- 
 BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS
 --

 Teach InfoWest Spam Trap if this mail (ID 157255992) is spam:
 Spam:
 https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157255992m=33a1a0cfcb80c=s
 Not spam:
 https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157255992m=33a1a0cfcb80c=n
 Forget vote:
 https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157255992m=33a1a0cfcb80c=f
 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

2008-02-15 Thread spiro
I wonder if a hose clamp, or adjustable clamp wouldn't make a very good 
dril guide.
Tighten it up on that pipe. and take a tiny drill bit to that pipe.
Those clamps have notches and even if you ust one out, you're already in a 
trough and you can line up with the far side when you are through, then 
that first pipe will line you up for the second pipe.
Can this thing be placed on it's side securely? if not, um, never mind.

On Thu, 14 Feb 2008, Rob Monitor wrote:

 HI, Here is the time when you should get out the wood working tools and build 
 a new step stool out of wood. This mite be a good place for people to see 
 what kind ideas they can come up with for it...
 ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message -
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 10:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool


  I thought about that but thought that the U-bolt would be stronger. At least
  the stool is now in my home where she can't try to climb up on it.
  - Original Message -
  From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 9:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

  How about binding the bottom of the handle tube to the leg tube after you
  cut away the bottom bolt with a good stout hose clamp?
  - Original Message -
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 8:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

  I am shorting both. the handle parallels the leg and has two 1/4 stainless
  bolts holding the handle. The bottom bolt is 2 inches from the bottom so
  cutting the leg and handle the bottom bolt is lost.
  - Original Message -
  From: Bob Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

  I use epoxy a lot but I'd sure feel safer if it was welded. A pop rivet is
  OK in most cases but we're talking about your mom's safety and if she lost
  her balance she could bend a rivet to the point she would fall off along
  with the handle.

  Are you shortening the handle or the whole stool? If the handle is a tube
  that has been bent around in a U shape and you can take it off you could
  drill through the side of the tube and run a bolt through and put a nut on
  the underneath part of the platform. I'm just having trouble picturing the
  style you have in my head.

  - Original Message -
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: Handyman-Blind
  Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:04 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

  My mother, age 87, needed a step stool to reach her kitchen cabinet. I
  purchased one like in a doctor's office that is a platform with a support
  handle on the end. This stool is a little too high for to step on. It is a
  little over 9 inches high. She would like it lowered to about 6.5 inches.
  Looking at it I really can't just cut it off because the way that the
  handle
  is affixed. The bottom bolt would end up being removed. The way that it is
  constructed I don't think I can get it under my drill press to make new
  holes.
  I think that I could use some u-bolts to hold it together. To keep the
  U-bolts from sliding I thought about:
  1. plumbers epoxy
  2. drill a hole in the flat part of the U-bolt then drill the leg and use
  a pop rivet
  3. have a friend weld the handle to the stool's leg
  What would be the best recommendation?
  Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
  It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

  If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
  address for more information:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  list
  just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Yahoo! Groups Links

  --

  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.5/1278 - Release Date: 2/14/2008
  10:28 AM

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electrolysis

2008-02-15 Thread Lenny McHugh
I will have to search for it. I think I know where I located it.
- Original Message - 
From: Larry Stansifer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 7:55 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Electrolysis


Lenny,

If you still have that information, could you send it to me at:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
The original must have gotten hung up in my spam program.

TNX

Larry

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 5:13 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electrolysis


Hi Gil,
I am glad that it helped someone else. The old tool that I had cleaned looks

like new.
It is amazing how science can do the hard work while you sit back and watch.

- Original Message - 
From: Gil Laster [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Post to Blind Handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 3:08 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electrolysis


A few weeks ago an article about using electrolysis to clean corroded metals

was posted.  I was unaware that a car battery and patience could render
terrific results.

I have a 30-year-old garden tiller with a tine hub that has been frozen onto

the power axel for over 10-years.  I decided to clean up the machine and I
was going to get that stubborn hub off.  My first attempt with a 6-inch
wheel puller broke the puller.  With a new puller I then tried penetrating
oil, hammering and heat.  That did not work either.  Then I tried the
electrolysis.  After 6-days of the hub/axel brewing I finally pulled it
apart today.

Thank you for that post about electrolysis.

- Gil Laster
Charlotte, NC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list

just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yahoo! Groups Links






To listen to the show archives go to link  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list
of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yahoo! Groups Links





-- 
BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS
--

Teach InfoWest Spam Trap if this mail (ID 157456864) is spam:
Spam:
https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157456864m=0de5a7501075c=s
Not spam:
https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157456864m=0de5a7501075c=n
Forget vote:
https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=157456864m=0de5a7501075c=f
--
END-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yahoo! Groups Links






RE: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

2008-02-15 Thread Peawee
if your mom is 87 years old I would not be playing around with what she had
to trust her life with. I would take it back and get something different or
buy something different, or start from scratch and build her a step stool
that would be safe if you have that capability. Just my thoughts. 


Peawee([EMAIL PROTECTED])
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 9:04 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

I wonder if a hose clamp, or adjustable clamp wouldn't make a very good dril
guide.
Tighten it up on that pipe. and take a tiny drill bit to that pipe.
Those clamps have notches and even if you ust one out, you're already in a
trough and you can line up with the far side when you are through, then that
first pipe will line you up for the second pipe.
Can this thing be placed on it's side securely? if not, um, never mind.

On Thu, 14 Feb 2008, Rob Monitor wrote:

 HI, Here is the time when you should get out the wood working tools and
build a new step stool out of wood. This mite be a good place for people to
see what kind ideas they can come up with for it...
 ROB FROM MINNESOTA
 - Original Message -
 From: Lenny McHugh
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 10:32 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool


 I thought about that but thought that the U-bolt would be stronger. At 
 least the stool is now in my home where she can't try to climb up on it.
 - Original Message -
 From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dleavens%40puc.net 
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 9:36 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

 How about binding the bottom of the handle tube to the leg tube after 
 you cut away the bottom bolt with a good stout hose clamp?
 - Original Message -
 From: Lenny McHugh
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 8:24 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

 I am shorting both. the handle parallels the leg and has two 1/4 
 stainless bolts holding the handle. The bottom bolt is 2 inches from 
 the bottom so cutting the leg and handle the bottom bolt is lost.
 - Original Message -
 From: Bob Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 mailto:bobken54%40bellsouth.net 
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
 mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:35 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

 I use epoxy a lot but I'd sure feel safer if it was welded. A pop 
 rivet is OK in most cases but we're talking about your mom's safety 
 and if she lost her balance she could bend a rivet to the point she 
 would fall off along with the handle.

 Are you shortening the handle or the whole stool? If the handle is a 
 tube that has been bent around in a U shape and you can take it off 
 you could drill through the side of the tube and run a bolt through 
 and put a nut on the underneath part of the platform. I'm just having 
 trouble picturing the style you have in my head.

 - Original Message -
 From: Lenny McHugh
 To: Handyman-Blind
 Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:04 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] modifying a step stool

 My mother, age 87, needed a step stool to reach her kitchen cabinet. I 
 purchased one like in a doctor's office that is a platform with a 
 support handle on the end. This stool is a little too high for to step 
 on. It is a little over 9 inches high. She would like it lowered to about
6.5 inches.
 Looking at it I really can't just cut it off because the way that the 
 handle is affixed. The bottom bolt would end up being removed. The way 
 that it is constructed I don't think I can get it under my drill press 
 to make new holes.
 I think that I could use some u-bolts to hold it together. To keep the 
 U-bolts from sliding I thought about:
 1. plumbers epoxy
 2. drill a hole in the flat part of the U-bolt then drill the leg and 
 use a pop rivet 3. have a friend weld the handle to the stool's leg 
 What would be the best recommendation?
 Lenny, Please visit my home page 
 http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ 
 http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
 It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources.

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 To listen to the show archives go to link 
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ 
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday