[BlindHandyMan] Reduce Wood Warping

[Boyce, Ray]

Q: I recently finished adding a deck to my house. I've noticed part of
my handrail is warping. I used treated wood, 2-by-4 and spindles for the
handrail.
Is there anything I can do to prevent or limit the warping?

A: For this question,  turned to treated-wood expert Huck DeVenzio of
Wolmanized Wood. Here's what he had to say:

"Wood has many outstanding properties, but it is a natural,
porous material with individual characteristics, and it can warp. When
wood gets
wet, it swells. When wood dries out after being sawn from the tree,
after being pressure-treated and after rain showers, it shrinks. Uneven
drying creates
stresses in wood, which results in warping (e.g., bowing, cupping or
twisting) or cracking. The degree of warping depends on the species of
wood, its grain
pattern, uniformity of drying and construction techniques, among other
factors.

"Although it is possible to position bowed deck lumber so
that its weight flattens it, or to use screws to fasten securely an
otherwise warped
piece, there is not much a user can do to truly un-warp a warped piece
of wood. It is best to take steps early to minimize the likelihood of
warping. For
example, you can purchase treated wood that is Kiln-Dried After
Treatment (KDAT). This step removes moisture evenly under controlled
conditions, so you
don't have sunshine drying the top of a deck while the underside faces
moist earth. Or, you can get wood with built-in water repellent, which
helps to
slow down the release and absorption of water. In either case, it is
always advisable to apply a water-repellent coating every year or so to
reduce further
water absorption in surfaces where good appearance is desirable.

"In building a project, you can avoid long, unsupported
spans, and you can make sure to use enough fasteners to hold wood firmly
in place. Screws
have better holding power than normal nails. As a last resort, it may
help to flip some cupped deck boards and encase a twisted column with
fascia boards.
Badly warped pieces may have to be replaced.

"Some warping is always a possibility, but this should not
discourage the use of a convenient, economical, attractive, long-lasting
and renewable
building material like pressure-treated wood. For more information on
preserved lumber and other maintenance tips, visit
www.wolmanizedwood.com.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

[Michael Baldwin]

LOL, true, but unfortunately I need to.
Michael
 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of RJ
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 8:56 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam



The best thing to write on the foam can, is do not use this product.
RJ

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

[RJ]

The best thing to write on the foam can, is do not use this product.
RJ

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

[Bob Kennedy]

It won't work even when the stuff is still wet.  And what I found interesting 
was there are no instructions on the can about clean up.  Just a lot of don't 
do this or that...  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 6:10 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam


  Would mineral spirits work, i have a gallon of that sitting around.
  Thanks,
  Michael


  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Ray Boyce
  Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 5:10 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

  Hi Michael

  Take all your tips that are clogged and soak them in a container of either
  paint thinners, turps or petrol and leave them in there for a while this
  will dissolve the substance clogging the tips.

  This same thing happened to me recently and after soaking give them a blast
  from your compressor they are then ready to go again.

  The same thing happens to spray cans of paint you might only use a small
  portion if you soak that nozzle and clean it each time no problems.

  Ray

  From: blindhandyman@ 
  yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
   yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
  Sent: Saturday, 12 April 2008 6:48 AM
  To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

  In the future when you are done spraying, turn the can upside down, and 
  spray it for a couple seconds to clean the tip. This will clean it out, 
  then just wipe the part where the spray comes out, and it should be ready to

  use the next time.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Michael Baldwin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  net
   >
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
  
  >
  Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 11:40 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

  > Hi,
  > anyone know of a way to clean out the tips of the spray foam cans so I can
  > use the rest of it. kind of sucks if I spent $7.00 per can, and can only
  > use it once.
  > I normally just take a new spray nozzle from a different can, but now I 
  > have
  > 2-3 cans with no way to spray them out.
  > Michael
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  > 
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://www.acbradio
  
  .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster
   .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_
  page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29>
  &PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  > Or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio. 
  org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio
  
  .org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws- 
  users.com/JAWS/handyman/
  >
  > Visit the archives page at the following address
  > http://www.mail-
  
  archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  >
  > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
  > address for more information:
  > http://www.jaws-  users.com/
  > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
  > list just send a blank message to:
  > blindhandyman- 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   ! Groups Links
  >
  >
  >

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] new vanity instalation.

[Bob Kennedy]

If you have a Delta, the repair kits are free.  Just call them and they will 
send you the parts for free.  They are fairly simple to repair.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 2:40 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] new vanity instalation.


  Hi, I have a delta type faucet that has been leaking for quite a long 
  time.
  I wrote about it and there was no real solution, as it will not come 
  undone.
  It will not come undone, as far as all that was recommended. I'm feeling 
  really bothered about the wasted water.
  However, in the meanwhile I was told that a new vanity would be nice.
  The start is that the shape of the vanity is wider on the left and has a 
  curved front and is narrower on the right,.
  That right hand area is only counter top above a drawer. But it's 
  convenient just the same.
  The second issue is the color. That bathroom is pink.
  I could go with a gray marble fake, or something like that, but would not 
  want to be the bozo who couldn't match the color.
  So to start, how does one match the color of a vanity.
  if I take a picture of it, I am depending on the film lab to get the color 
  right. They've already darkened my kid so i've been that route.
  Maybe taking th door or drawer to the Home Depot?

  After that I'll have agang of questions, so can thee be someone out there 
  on list for me?
  I just can't afford to pay someone right now, and can't afford to screw it 
  up.
  Thanks



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Information On CFL Bulbs

[Bob Kennedy]

We all know what lack of marital bliss translates to or not...

  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: BlindHandyMan 
  Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 2:26 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Information On CFL Bulbs


  Hi all,

  I just spent a lot of time trying to become knowledgeable about CFL bulbs.
  After a great deal of searching and reading, I found the two articles below
  to be very useful when deciding which CFL bulbs to purchase. The thing I
  found most interesting is that CFL bulbs have a temperature rating that
  helps describe the color of the light they produce. I installed a handful
  of CFL bulbs a year ago but my wife has complained ever since that she
  doesn't like the color of the light. She says it looks a little pink to
  her. After reading the attached articles, I think I now know why. I just
  ordered 10 CFL bulbs with candelabra bases that have a temperature rating of
  4100. If what the articles say is true, then the new bulbs should eliminate
  the problem and once again restore marital bliss in the household. And, as
  we all know, marital bliss translates into ... Well, I'm sure you all know.
  Hope you find the information useful.

  Take care,
  Ed
  *** Article 1 ***
  http://www.machomeautomation.com/article.php?story=CFL1&mode=print

  Compact Florescent Bulbs and X10 (part 1)
  Tuesday, March 27 2007 @ 04:44 AM PST
  Contributed by: James 
  With continuing news items about the banning of filament light bulbs and the
  continuing improvement in quality of compact florescent light bulbs there is
  quite a bit of interest in using these with Xtension. I use a LOT of CF
  bulbs in my system and thought I would outline some of what I've learned in
  a few articles here. First I'll just tell you what I know about CF bulbs in
  general and then get down to the specifics of using them with X10.

  You Get What You Pay For: 

  There is nothing more useless and annoying than a cheap CF bulb. Don't buy
  cheap CF bulbs from cheap brands. The color of the light will bother you,
  the audible noise from the ballast will bother you, the flickering will
  bother you, the interference the cheap ballast creates eating your X10
  signals will bother you and the fact that it will burn out before you've
  recouped your investment in it will also bother you. Cheap bulbs save you
  nothing. 

  My personal favorite brands of bulbs are from Sylvania/Osram, Phillips and
  GE. I have also had excellent luck with the reflector floods of the
  Commercial Electric brand that Home Depot sold. They have been replaced by
  new branding but as far as I can tell the lights are the same. Please note
  that I have not had the same good luck with the other Home Depot bulbs, just
  the reflector ones. 

  In my hometown Lowes carries a good selection of the Sylvania lights, the
  Wallmart has started carrying Phillips bulbs replacing the old brand they
  used to carry which if my experience is any indication probably every other
  one got returned a week later.. And just about everybody carries GE bulbs. 

  Color Temperature Confusion: 

  "Warm White", "Bright White", "Full Spectrum", "Daylight" etc. the terms are
  a bit confusing and dont mean the same thing from brand to brand. Most good
  brands will print the actual color temperature somewhere on the bulb ballast
  itself if not on the packaging and that will help you figure out what you
  want. Everyones experience of color temperature will be a little different
  and it's very much up to personal preference. Before spending big bucks on
  buying a case of something to replace every bulb in your house, buy a couple
  of the different temperatures and try them out to see what you like best.
  I'll tell you what I've learned below.

  Warm White is generally in the 2700k or 2800k temperature range. It's also
  sometimes called Soft White. This is the color that CF bulbs have that is
  closest to a regular light bulb. In other words fairly yellow. The cheaper
  brands though can even look green at this color temperature. The Warm GE
  bulbs and most of the phillips bulbs run in this color are pretty good. This
  color is better for dimmer lights or lights that need to blend in with
  regular bulbs. 

  For example, individual lamps or fixtures that dont need to be terribly
  bright. The lamps in my living room are all this color temperature because
  they need to blend in with the regular incandescent bulbs in the ceiling fan
  which are on a dimmer and can't be easily replaced. I would stay away from
  any bulbs that have a lower temperature than 2700k. I've seen some labeled
  as low as 2400k but that would be just yellow green and probably horrible.

  Bright White is in the 3000k or 3100k range. This is my favorite color for
  large amounts of light. While warm light works well with a single bulb or a
  smaller wattage, higher color temps need more light to look good. A single
  3000k bulb in a room will look grey or dim, lik

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Selecting the right deadbolt

[Bob Kennedy]

Take a look at the distance between the door and the jam.  If a wind can open 
it a good shove probably can too.  You may find you need to bring the jam 
closer to the door or even though it's a stretch the plunger could be in 
backwards.  I've seen that done before and you have to turn the knob to shut 
the door but enough pressure will force the door open.  But I would put my 
money on too large a gap between the door and jam.  It's also possible the 
plunger isn't extending completely any longer and a new lock set should clear 
that up.  

If you decide to go with a dead bolt, they make a neat tool for installing dead 
bolts and lock sets.  It is a jig that screws in where the latch screws go.  
They hold a jig that you run the hole saw through.  It comes with 2 hole saw 
bits.  One fits the door knob or the dead bolt.  The other goes in from the 
side where the dead bolt or plunger comes out.  No more messing with paper 
templates and a tape measure!  


  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 1:10 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Selecting the right deadbolt




  No, Bob , there is only a standard lockset in the door handle. I am 
  considering adding another locking device. when the door comes open 
  is always during a hard wind coming in from the West. this is a 
  Stanley 9 lite steel door installed maybe around 1986 or 7 with no 
  other problems. Lee

  On Sun, Apr 13, 2008 
  at 10:48:25PM -0400, Bob Kennedy wrote:
  > I would be more concerned with the squareness of the door frame. If the 
lock doesn't work and nothing has changed but the house settling, the first 
thing I'd want to check would be if the latch is going into the mortise 
correctly. If the house settles the opening might be higher or lower than where 
the latch is touching. 
  > 
  > If that is still lining up but you can push the door open check the 
clearance between the door and the jam. The latch can only reach so far and if 
you can push the door open this may be the problem. 
  > 
  > Now if you are saying you can set the dead bolt and can still push the door 
open I'd check the clearance between door and jam again. Also check that the 
dead bolt is working correctly by turning the key and then the lever and 
watching that the bolt is coming all the way out. When you have turned the key 
or lever until it stops. At that point push on the dead bolt and see if it goes 
back in the door or does it not move at all? If it goes back in the door you 
need a new dead bolt. If it doesn't move at all but you can push the door open 
while the bolt is out, I would have to think the door had gotten too wide and 
the problem is with the door frame, not the dead bolt.
  > 
  > Good luck
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: Lee A. Stone 
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  > Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 1:40 PM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Selecting the right deadbolt
  > 
  > 
  > n
  > My question would be on this subject matter. is the length of the 
  > actual bolt that goes back in the door fram the same length? I ask 
  > because our house seems to settle from time to time and the standard 
  > lock doesn't work as the door can swing open. Lee
  > 
  > -- 
  > Draft beer, not people.
  > Do you Jabber? I do. My JID is: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > 

  -- 
  Honk if you are against noise pollution!
  Do you Jabber? I do. My JID is: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] new vanity instalation.

[RJ]

The delta single handle faucets  are a snap to repair.. After taking the lever 
or knob off, there is a retainer nut inside of the chrome dome that have four 
bumps around the chrome dome. It is made of plastic, as near as I can tell. You 
can use a flat screwdriver and bump the nut to loosen the tension and the dome 
will screw off by hand. Or there is a tool that comes with the full repair kit 
from delt that fits inside of the dome and matches up with the retainer washer 
bumps.
RJ
And as for installing the vanity, go the extra few dollars and get the flexible 
hose supply lines and the same for the tail piece that comes down from the sink 
to the trap . It sure makes life easiers.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 14:40
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] new vanity instalation.


  Hi, I have a delta type faucet that has been leaking for quite a long 
  time.
  I wrote about it and there was no real solution, as it will not come 
  undone.
  It will not come undone, as far as all that was recommended. I'm feeling 
  really bothered about the wasted water.
  However, in the meanwhile I was told that a new vanity would be nice.
  The start is that the shape of the vanity is wider on the left and has a 
  curved front and is narrower on the right,.
  That right hand area is only counter top above a drawer. But it's 
  convenient just the same.
  The second issue is the color. That bathroom is pink.
  I could go with a gray marble fake, or something like that, but would not 
  want to be the bozo who couldn't match the color.
  So to start, how does one match the color of a vanity.
  if I take a picture of it, I am depending on the film lab to get the color 
  right. They've already darkened my kid so i've been that route.
  Maybe taking th door or drawer to the Home Depot?

  After that I'll have agang of questions, so can thee be someone out there 
  on list for me?
  I just can't afford to pay someone right now, and can't afford to screw it 
  up.
  Thanks



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] new vanity instalation.

[Ron Yearns]

Have you checked to see what is holding the vanity top on.  Many times they are 
just glued on with a silicon caulk.  Once you have the top off you can get the 
faucet off even if you have to hack saw or sawall the bottom off or can get 
better wrenches on it..  
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 1:40 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] new vanity instalation.


  Hi, I have a delta type faucet that has been leaking for quite a long 
  time.
  I wrote about it and there was no real solution, as it will not come 
  undone.
  It will not come undone, as far as all that was recommended. I'm feeling 
  really bothered about the wasted water.
  However, in the meanwhile I was told that a new vanity would be nice.
  The start is that the shape of the vanity is wider on the left and has a 
  curved front and is narrower on the right,.
  That right hand area is only counter top above a drawer. But it's 
  convenient just the same.
  The second issue is the color. That bathroom is pink.
  I could go with a gray marble fake, or something like that, but would not 
  want to be the bozo who couldn't match the color.
  So to start, how does one match the color of a vanity.
  if I take a picture of it, I am depending on the film lab to get the color 
  right. They've already darkened my kid so i've been that route.
  Maybe taking th door or drawer to the Home Depot?

  After that I'll have agang of questions, so can thee be someone out there 
  on list for me?
  I just can't afford to pay someone right now, and can't afford to screw it 
  up.
  Thanks



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi Michael
Give it a go all that is required is to dissolve that which is blocking
up those nozzles.
Ray



From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
Sent: Tuesday, 15 April 2008 08:11
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam



Would mineral spirits work, i have a gallon of that sitting around.
Thanks,
Michael


_ 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ]
On Behalf Of Ray Boyce
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 5:10 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

Hi Michael

Take all your tips that are clogged and soak them in a container of
either
paint thinners, turps or petrol and leave them in there for a while this
will dissolve the substance clogging the tips.

This same thing happened to me recently and after soaking give them a
blast
from your compressor they are then ready to go again.

The same thing happens to spray cans of paint you might only use a small
portion if you soak that nozzle and clean it each time no problems.

Ray

From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
Sent: Saturday, 12 April 2008 6:48 AM
To: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

In the future when you are done spraying, turn the can upside down, and 
spray it for a couple seconds to clean the tip. This will clean it out, 
then just wipe the part where the spray comes out, and it should be
ready to

use the next time.
- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Baldwin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]

net
 >
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com

>
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 11:40 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

> Hi,
> anyone know of a way to clean out the tips of the spray foam cans so I
can
> use the rest of it. kind of sucks if I spent $7.00 per can, and can
only
> use it once.
> I normally just take a new spray nozzle from a different can, but now
I 
> have
> 2-3 cans with no way to spray them out.
> Michael
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio
 >
.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster
 
> .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_
page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29>
&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.
 >
org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio
 >
.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-  >
users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-
 >
archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 /
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the
following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-  > users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy
Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman- 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  
 ! Groups Links
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 

**
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mai

RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

[Michael Baldwin]

Would mineral spirits work, i have a gallon of that sitting around.
Thanks,
Michael
 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Ray Boyce
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 5:10 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam



Hi Michael

Take all your tips that are clogged and soak them in a container of either
paint thinners, turps or petrol and leave them in there for a while this
will dissolve the substance clogging the tips.

This same thing happened to me recently and after soaking give them a blast
from your compressor they are then ready to go again.

The same thing happens to spray cans of paint you might only use a small
portion if you soak that nozzle and clean it each time no problems.

Ray

From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
Sent: Saturday, 12 April 2008 6:48 AM
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

In the future when you are done spraying, turn the can upside down, and 
spray it for a couple seconds to clean the tip. This will clean it out, 
then just wipe the part where the spray comes out, and it should be ready to

use the next time.
- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Baldwin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
net
 >
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

>
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 11:40 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

> Hi,
> anyone know of a way to clean out the tips of the spray foam cans so I can
> use the rest of it. kind of sucks if I spent $7.00 per can, and can only
> use it once.
> I normally just take a new spray nozzle from a different can, but now I 
> have
> 2-3 cans with no way to spray them out.
> Michael
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio

.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster
 .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_
page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29>
&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio. 
org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio

.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws- 
users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-

archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-  users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman- 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 ! Groups Links
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

[Michael Baldwin]

Thanks, but I tried that,wasted about 1/4 of the can, and the foam was still
coming out.
Michael
 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 3:48 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam



In the future when you are done spraying, turn the can upside down, and 
spray it for a couple seconds to clean the tip. This will clean it out, 
then just wipe the part where the spray comes out, and it should be ready to

use the next time.
- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Baldwin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
net>
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 11:40 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam

> Hi,
> anyone know of a way to clean out the tips of the spray foam cans so I can
> use the rest of it. kind of sucks if I spent $7.00 per can, and can only
> use it once.
> I normally just take a new spray nozzle from a different can, but now I 
> have
> 2-3 cans with no way to spray them out.
> Michael
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio

.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_
position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio. 
org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio

.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws- 
users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-

archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-  users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman- 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
>
>
>



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Spot Welding

[Larry Stansifer]

First of all the process for replacing body panels isn't necessarily spot
welding.
Your job will go something like this:
1. Remove all of the damaged or rusted metal making sure to grind or cut
well back into good solid metal.
2. Either purchase or fabricate the appropriate patch panel.
3.  Fit it into place making certain you have provided enough flanged
material to get a good tight fit.
4. Using a TIG welder tack weld the panel at several points around its outer
edges. Don't let your tack welds get more than about 6" apart. The reason
for this when you finally weld in the panel you don't want it to get to hot
and warp.

5. Now take your tig welder and tie all of your tack welds together. Do not
allow a lot of heat build up in your work however, in the event you get some
heat warping you can either hammer and dolly it out or use a shrinking wheel
on a body grinder to bring the panel back flat.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of NLG
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 11:38 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Spot Welding


I need to replace both rocker panels and both cab corners on a 2000 F150.


Is there a spot welder that you place the electrode in the spot to be tacked
and then you just press a button to make the weld?

Is anyone here successfully spot welding auto body panels?

What make/model spot welder are you using?

Thanks :)




To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list
of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links





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[BlindHandyMan] Which Is the Best drill For the Job

[Boyce, Ray]

Q: Which is better; cobalt, titanium or black oxide for drill bits? By
better I mean will stay sharp longer when drilling wood, metal studs,
drywall etc.
...

A: The answer depends on the materials being drilled. Here's a general
breakdown:

Titanium drill bits offer the best durability and speed for
general purpose drilling applications. They're best for cutting holes
into metal
and work equally well in wood and plastic drilling. Use in steel,
copper, aluminum, brass, oak, maple, MDF, pine, PVC, polycarbonate,
acrylic, ABS, nylon,
composite materials and common stainless steel.

Cobalt drill bits offer the best heat-resistance and a rigid
thick web design for drilling in extremely hard and abrasive materials
such as
treated stainless steel (precipitation-hardened), cast iron and
titanium.

Black oxide bits offer superior durability, speed and
selection for most general purpose applications. They're best for
cutting holes into metal
and work equally well in wood and plastic drilling. Use in steel,
copper, aluminum, brass, oak, maple, MDF, pine, PVC, polycarbonate,
acrylic, ABS, nylon
and composite materials. (Information courtesy Bosch Power Tools,
www.boschtools.com)


**
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
e-mail and delete the e-mail.

Any content of this message and its attachments which
does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
**



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] PVC as a Backsplash?

[Boyce, Ray]

Q: I'm remodeling my kitchen, which will feature white cabinets, white crown 
molding and white baseboard trim throughout. For a sink backsplash, I thought
the look of baseboard trim would tie in nicely to the overall décor, but I 
don't want the wood trim to decay when exposed to water. Is there any problem
with making a baseboard-like backsplash using PVC trim?

A: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is not affected by water, so it should work well as 
a backsplash material. It won't rot, split or swell. Plus, it has a similar
workability as pine. Using standard woodworking tools, you can saw it, glue it, 
drill it, nail it and use a router to create decorative molding profiles.
Use PVC cement to join the trim boards together. To paint it, just clean the 
surface first and use regular house paint.

**
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
e-mail and delete the e-mail.

Any content of this message and its attachments which
does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
**



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Information On CFL Bulbs

[wstephan]

Thanks Ed for this, lots of good info.

[BlindHandyMan] nature's natural carpet

[cliffwilson]

Dear List Members:
A good part of the area around our home is wooded, and in many shady spots 
we have a wonderful carpet of moss.  It grows to a height of approximately one 
to one and a half inch in height, it is soft to bear feet, and it does not need 
mowing.  Our roof even has a patch of this little wonder.  It is a shame we 
can't use genetic engineering to cross it with a grass that will stand up to 
heavy traffic, and that will tolerate full sun light.   Thankfully, we are 
close to normal here in hillbilly country, with respect to rain fall.  After 
last year's drought, any cloud bearing moisture is welcome.

Yours Truly,

Clifford Wilson

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] lawn

[spiro]

where can we get that on line?


On Sat, 12 Apr 2008, Brice Mijares wrote:

> Every spring I apply turf builder.
> - Original Message -
> From: "carl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 2:13 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] lawn
>
>
>> how can i get my lawn to gro thick and lush?
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
>> address for more information:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list just send a blank message to:
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] new vanity instalation.

[Dan Rossi]

Spiro,

If you can't aford to screw it up, then I would be the wrong person to ask 
for help.  I probably spent 20% more on my deck than I needed to just in 
screw-ups.


-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Should I Use Faced Insulation?

[Dale Leavens]

And I bring up a plank with me to lay across the trusses. You need to be 
careful not to get out on one end and have it flip it but if you get your 
weight across more than one and move carefully you won't do any damage. I've 
done it dozens of times.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 3:20 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Should I Use Faced Insulation?


  Stay on the ceiling joists the best you can. Mine or 2x4 and some span 16
  foot, and it held my fat butt.
  Michael


  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 1:31 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Should I Use Faced Insulation?

  yeah, but how to crawl around up there without causing cracking? One 
  cannot stay on load walls.

  On Sat, 12 Apr 2008, Ray Boyce wrote:

  > Q: My home has about 6 inches of fiberglass insulation in the attic, and
  I'm
  > planning to add more. Should I use faced insulation?
  >
  >
  >
  > A: No; only use unfaced fiberglass insulation. The facing acts as a vapor
  > retarder that helps reduce the amount of moisture entering a wall, ceiling
  > or floor. In hot climates, your original layer of insulation should
  already
  > have a vapor retarder facing the living area of your home. If you add a
  > second vapor retarder with another layer of faced insulation, any moisture
  > that does get through the first layer may condense on the second. This can
  > cause water stains on the ceiling and could lead to mold and structural
  > damage. When the joist cavity is full, install the second layer of unfaced
  > insulation perpendicular to the first, covering the ceiling joists to
  reduce
  > heat loss through the wood. Otherwise, install the second layer right on
  top
  > of the first layer, between the joists.
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


--


  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG. 
  Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1377 - Release Date: 4/14/2008 
9:26 AM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Should I Use Faced Insulation?

[Michael Baldwin]

Stay on the ceiling joists the best you can.  Mine or 2x4 and some span 16
foot, and it held my fat butt.
Michael
 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 1:31 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Should I Use Faced Insulation?



yeah, but how to crawl around up there without causing cracking? One 
cannot stay on load walls.

On Sat, 12 Apr 2008, Ray Boyce wrote:

> Q: My home has about 6 inches of fiberglass insulation in the attic, and
I'm
> planning to add more. Should I use faced insulation?
>
>
>
> A: No; only use unfaced fiberglass insulation. The facing acts as a vapor
> retarder that helps reduce the amount of moisture entering a wall, ceiling
> or floor. In hot climates, your original layer of insulation should
already
> have a vapor retarder facing the living area of your home. If you add a
> second vapor retarder with another layer of faced insulation, any moisture
> that does get through the first layer may condense on the second. This can
> cause water stains on the ceiling and could lead to mold and structural
> damage. When the joist cavity is full, install the second layer of unfaced
> insulation perpendicular to the first, covering the ceiling joists to
reduce
> heat loss through the wood. Otherwise, install the second layer right on
top
> of the first layer, between the joists.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [SPAM] [BlindHandyMan] new vanity instalation.

[chiliblindman]

 Spiro are you saying the fixture will not come apart or it will not come 
off the vanity.  Is that one of those single handle units with the set screw 
under the handle dead center in front, under the handle that can only be gotten 
to by lifting the handle up in front as far as it goes?
..bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] lawn

[spiro]

what are the best weed killing/ fertilizing granules and where can I order 
them?
I thought I was buying weed and feed, but can't locate it on line.
I have zoisia grass and 50 dandylions at this time.
That reminds me it is time to put the grubkiller down too.


On Fri, 11 Apr 2008, carl wrote:

> how can i get my lawn to gro thick and lush?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[BlindHandyMan] new vanity instalation.

[spiro]

Hi, I have a delta type faucet that has been leaking for quite a long 
time.
I wrote about it and there was no real solution, as it will not come 
undone.
It will not come undone, as far as all that was recommended. I'm feeling 
really bothered about the wasted water.
However, in the meanwhile I was told that a new vanity would be nice.
The start is that the shape of the vanity is wider on the left and has a 
curved front and is narrower on the right,.
That right hand area is only counter top above a drawer. But it's 
convenient just the same.
The second issue is the color. That bathroom is pink.
I could go with a gray marble fake, or something like that, but would not 
want to be the bozo who couldn't match the color.
So to start, how does one match the color of a vanity.
if I take a picture of it, I am depending on the film lab to get the color 
right. They've already darkened my kid so i've been that route.
Maybe taking th door or drawer to the Home Depot?

After that I'll have agang of questions, so can thee be someone out there 
on list for me?
I just can't afford to pay someone right now, and can't afford to screw it 
up.
Thanks

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Should I Use Faced Insulation?

[spiro]

yeah, but how to crawl around up there without causing cracking? One 
cannot stay on load walls.


On Sat, 12 Apr 2008, Ray Boyce wrote:

> Q: My home has about 6 inches of fiberglass insulation in the attic, and I'm
> planning to add more. Should I use faced insulation?
>
>
>
> A: No; only use unfaced fiberglass insulation. The facing acts as a vapor
> retarder that helps reduce the amount of moisture entering a wall, ceiling
> or floor. In hot climates, your original layer of insulation should already
> have a vapor retarder facing the living area of your home. If you add a
> second vapor retarder with another layer of faced insulation, any moisture
> that does get through the first layer may condense on the second. This can
> cause water stains on the ceiling and could lead to mold and structural
> damage. When the joist cavity is full, install the second layer of unfaced
> insulation perpendicular to the first, covering the ceiling joists to reduce
> heat loss through the wood. Otherwise, install the second layer right on top
> of the first layer, between the joists.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[BlindHandyMan] Information On CFL Bulbs

[Edward Przybylek]

Hi all,

I just spent a lot of time trying to become knowledgeable about CFL bulbs.
After a great deal of searching and reading, I found the two articles below
to be very useful when deciding which CFL bulbs to purchase.  The thing I
found most interesting is that CFL bulbs have a temperature rating that
helps describe the color of the light they produce.  I installed a handful
of CFL bulbs a year ago but my wife has complained ever since that she
doesn't like the color of the light.  She says it looks a little pink to
her.  After reading the attached articles, I think I now know why.  I just
ordered 10 CFL bulbs with candelabra bases that have a temperature rating of
4100.  If what the articles say is true, then the new bulbs should eliminate
the problem and once again restore marital bliss in the household.  And, as
we all know, marital bliss translates into ...  Well, I'm sure you all know.
Hope you find the information useful.

Take care,
Ed
*** Article 1 ***
http://www.machomeautomation.com/article.php?story=CFL1&mode=print

Compact Florescent Bulbs and X10 (part 1)
Tuesday, March 27 2007 @ 04:44 AM PST
Contributed by: James 
With continuing news items about the banning of filament light bulbs and the
continuing improvement in quality of compact florescent light bulbs there is
quite a bit of interest in using these with Xtension. I use a LOT of CF
bulbs in my system and thought I would outline some of what I've learned in
a few articles here. First I'll just tell you what I know about CF bulbs in
general and then get down to the specifics of using them with X10.

You Get What You Pay For: 

There is nothing more useless and annoying than a cheap CF bulb. Don't buy
cheap CF bulbs from cheap brands. The color of the light will bother you,
the audible noise from the ballast will bother you, the flickering will
bother you, the interference the cheap ballast creates eating your X10
signals will bother you and the fact that it will burn out before you've
recouped your investment in it will also bother you. Cheap bulbs save you
nothing. 

My personal favorite brands of bulbs are from Sylvania/Osram, Phillips and
GE. I have also had excellent luck with the reflector floods of the
Commercial Electric brand that Home Depot sold. They have been replaced by
new branding but as far as I can tell the lights are the same. Please note
that I have not had the same good luck with the other Home Depot bulbs, just
the reflector ones. 

In my hometown Lowes carries a good selection of the Sylvania lights, the
Wallmart has started carrying Phillips bulbs replacing the old brand they
used to carry which if my experience is any indication probably every other
one got returned a week later.. And just about everybody carries GE bulbs. 

Color Temperature Confusion: 

"Warm White", "Bright White", "Full Spectrum", "Daylight" etc. the terms are
a bit confusing and dont mean the same thing from brand to brand. Most good
brands will print the actual color temperature somewhere on the bulb ballast
itself if not on the packaging and that will help you figure out what you
want. Everyones experience of color temperature will be a little different
and it's very much up to personal preference. Before spending big bucks on
buying a case of something to replace every bulb in your house, buy a couple
of the different temperatures and try them out to see what you like best.
I'll tell you what I've learned below.

Warm White is generally in the 2700k or 2800k temperature range. It's also
sometimes called Soft White. This is the color that CF bulbs have that is
closest to a regular light bulb. In other words fairly yellow. The cheaper
brands though can even look green at this color temperature. The Warm GE
bulbs and most of the phillips bulbs run in this color are pretty good. This
color is better for dimmer lights or lights that need to blend in with
regular bulbs. 

For example, individual lamps or fixtures that dont need to be terribly
bright. The lamps in my living room are all this color temperature because
they need to blend in with the regular incandescent bulbs in the ceiling fan
which are on a dimmer and can't be easily replaced. I would stay away from
any bulbs that have a lower temperature than 2700k. I've seen some labeled
as low as 2400k but that would be just yellow green and probably horrible.

Bright White is in the 3000k or 3100k range. This is my favorite color for
large amounts of light. While warm light works well with a single bulb or a
smaller wattage, higher color temps need more light to look good. A single
3000k bulb in a room will look grey or dim, like an overcast day rather than
a useful light. At least that is my experience. But if you have a lot of
them it's far superior to a large array of 2700k bulbs. My kitchen has 8
recessed cans and I've replaced them with 3000k Sylvania 30 watt CF bulbs
(100+ watt equivalent bought at lowes and some of my current favorite bulbs
going in everywhere the older cheaper bulbs fa

[BlindHandyMan] Spot Welding

[NLG]

I need to replace both rocker panels and both cab corners on a 2000 F150.


Is there a spot welder that you place the electrode in the spot to be tacked
and then you just press a button to make the weld?

Is anyone here successfully spot welding auto body panels?

What make/model spot welder are you using?

Thanks :)

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Selecting the right deadbolt

[NLG]

My neighbor had the same exact problem with a metal door and it coming open in 
a strong gust of wind.  I took a look at it for him and found that the screws 
that hold the inside knob to the outside knob were slightly loose.  I tightened 
the screws and the door latches and stays latched now.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 13:10
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Selecting the right deadbolt




  No, Bob , there is only a standard lockset in the door handle. I am 
  considering adding another locking device. when the door comes open 
  is always during a hard wind coming in from the West. this is a 
  Stanley 9 lite steel door installed maybe around 1986 or 7 with no 
  other problems. Lee

  On Sun, Apr 13, 2008 
  at 10:48:25PM -0400, Bob Kennedy wrote:
  > I would be more concerned with the squareness of the door frame. If the 
lock doesn't work and nothing has changed but the house settling, the first 
thing I'd want to check would be if the latch is going into the mortise 
correctly. If the house settles the opening might be higher or lower than where 
the latch is touching. 
  > 
  > If that is still lining up but you can push the door open check the 
clearance between the door and the jam. The latch can only reach so far and if 
you can push the door open this may be the problem. 
  > 
  > Now if you are saying you can set the dead bolt and can still push the door 
open I'd check the clearance between door and jam again. Also check that the 
dead bolt is working correctly by turning the key and then the lever and 
watching that the bolt is coming all the way out. When you have turned the key 
or lever until it stops. At that point push on the dead bolt and see if it goes 
back in the door or does it not move at all? If it goes back in the door you 
need a new dead bolt. If it doesn't move at all but you can push the door open 
while the bolt is out, I would have to think the door had gotten too wide and 
the problem is with the door frame, not the dead bolt.
  > 
  > Good luck
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: Lee A. Stone 
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  > Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 1:40 PM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Selecting the right deadbolt
  > 
  > 
  > n
  > My question would be on this subject matter. is the length of the 
  > actual bolt that goes back in the door fram the same length? I ask 
  > because our house seems to settle from time to time and the standard 
  > lock doesn't work as the door can swing open. Lee
  > 
  > -- 
  > Draft beer, not people.
  > Do you Jabber? I do. My JID is: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > 

  -- 
  Honk if you are against noise pollution!
  Do you Jabber? I do. My JID is: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Selecting the right deadbolt

[Lee A. Stone]

No, Bob , there is only a standard lockset in the door handle. I am 
considering   adding another locking device. when the door comes open 
is always during a hard wind coming in from the West. this is a 
Stanley 9 lite steel door installed maybe around 1986 or 7 with no 
other problems. Lee


On Sun, Apr 13, 2008 
at 10:48:25PM -0400, Bob Kennedy wrote:
> I would be more concerned with the squareness of the door frame.  If the lock 
> doesn't work and nothing has changed but the house settling, the first thing 
> I'd want to check would be if the latch is going into the mortise correctly.  
> If the house settles the opening might be higher or lower than where the 
> latch is touching.  
> 
> If that is still lining up but you can push the door open check the clearance 
> between the door and the jam.  The latch can only reach so far and if you can 
> push the door open this may be the problem.  
> 
> Now if you are saying you can set the dead bolt and can still push the door 
> open I'd check the clearance between door and jam again.  Also check that the 
> dead bolt is working correctly by turning the key and then the lever and 
> watching that the bolt is coming all the way out.  When you have turned the 
> key or lever until it stops. At that point push on the dead bolt and see if 
> it goes back in the door or does it not move at all?  If it goes back in the 
> door you need a new dead bolt.  If it doesn't move at all but you can push 
> the door open while the bolt is out, I would have to think the door had 
> gotten too wide and the problem is with the door frame, not the dead bolt.
> 
> Good luck
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Lee A. Stone 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 1:40 PM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Selecting the right deadbolt
> 
> 
>   n
>   My question would be on this subject matter. is the length of the 
>   actual bolt that goes back in the door fram the same length? I ask 
>   because our house seems to settle from time to time and the standard 
>   lock doesn't work as the door can swing open. Lee
> 
>   -- 
>   Draft beer, not people.
>   Do you Jabber? I do. My JID is: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
>
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 

-- 
  Honk if you are against noise pollution!
Do you Jabber? I do. My JID is: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] lime away

[Steve Crews]

Hello,  I use CLR.  But I'm not sure whether you should wear gloves when
using it.  However, I would recommend wearing gloves when using any
detergent strong enough to remove lime or calcium.  I think CLR, STANDS FOR
"CALCKUIM, LIME, AND RUST".

Steve 

 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Eugene Baroni
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 9:00 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] lime away

 

Are there any better hard water deposit removers than lime away> Hopefully 
something that doesn't require gloves. 

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] lime away

[rs_denis]

white vinegar.  Sometimes hot vinegar works best.  Must let it sit quite a 
while before it will dissolve the lime accumulations.  RD