RE: [BlindHandyMan] fireplace flute
Hi Jennifer Contact the Fireplace Manufacturer to ask them what is the procedure for obtaining a replacement key. or get a Locksmith in to cut you a new key Do you know who used to live there, and where they are now if so give them a call to see if they still have or know where it is. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer Sent: Saturday, 13 December 2008 5:24 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] fireplace flute Hey Guys, We bought our house last year and did not get the key to the flute on the fireplace. Does anyone know where or how I get something like this replaced? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable
I think that I will stick to my jar idea. I will replace the plastic jar with a glass one that I have found, and will get a glazier's drill. I feel more confident of the durability of the glass than I do of the plastic. I will also spread some silicon around the holes to keep any water out. Thank you all for your helpful suggestions. Jewel - Original Message - From: cheetah cheet...@frontiernet.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 2:41 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable hi jewel the only thing would do is put a mess of calk around the cable where it goes through the jar ends. Jim
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable
Out of curiosity, how many volts are you talking about in this underground wire for your electric fence? _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jewel Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 5:50 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable I think that I will stick to my jar idea. I will replace the plastic jar with a glass one that I have found, and will get a glazier's drill. I feel more confident of the durability of the glass than I do of the plastic. I will also spread some silicon around the holes to keep any water out. Thank you all for your helpful suggestions. Jewel - Original Message - From: cheetah cheet...@frontierne mailto:cheetah1%40frontiernet.net t.net To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 2:41 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable hi jewel the only thing would do is put a mess of calk around the cable where it goes through the jar ends. Jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Repair a Kitchen Cabinet
First of all, I am a bit confused. It seems you asked a question then answered it yourself. Regardless, I would not run screws through the inside back of a kitchen cabinet. There is a top and bottom rail on the outside of the cabinet for this purpose. No washers are required because the wood is three quarters of an inch (usually) and very hard. If you run a screw through the back of the cabinet into the wall and then load the cabinet with heavy items such as canned goods, you can rip the cabinet right off the wall except for the backing plate. _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ray Boyce Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:43 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Repair a Kitchen Cabinet I noticed only three of the six screws that hold my kitchen cabinets on the wall are anchored in a stud. The other three were so loose that they pulled out of the wall with my fingers. How do I fix this? The installers must have missed the studs when fastening the cabinet. The screws that pulled away were likely only fastened to drywall or plaster and they stripped out from the weaker material. The easiest way to locate the studs is to use a stud finder above or below the cabinet case. Once you know the wall stud location, you can measure inside the cabinet to locate where you'll drive a screw through the back of the case and into the stud. The stud is probably just to the left or right of the existing screw hole. Use screws that are a minimum of 2-1/2 inches, and choose fasteners with large heads or washers to make sure the cabinets cinch up to the wall. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] sound card problem
Victor your problem with jaws is a known issue and jaws. if you plug any sound device in after the install of jaws. it will default to that device for output. the trick there is if running xp set the sound card in the jaws.ini file. For what ever sound card you want. if running vista, just set it in the playback options as the default. With lenny it could be loose plug ends. on board sound cards this can happen very easy. Just by plugging and unplugging the cables or by moving the cables around. To reset on board sound chips. You will have to do some soldering, and think it would be easier to just get a PCI sound card. They are cheap now and will give you better sound even without using your ram to do its work. At 08:31 PM 12/12/2008, you wrote: Hi Lenny, I also have had this problem, and have noticed that it only happens when I have my Skype phone attached to the USB port. What happens is I'll restart my system, then, for no apparent reason, the windows theme music will come on, but I wait and wait and wait, and no jaws. So, what I did was turn Narrator on, and discovered that Jaws was indeed working, but just wasn't speaking, or coming through the sound card. Once I shut down Jaws and restart it again, Jaws comes back without a hitch. Obviously, I use Narrator to help me unload Jaws, but once Jaws comes back, it's working fine, so I can then shut down Jaws. What I think may be the solution is to change the IRQ ports settings if you have anything else plugged into your computer. So, the question is, do you? Have something plugged into your computer, like a VOIP or Skype phone? Some other device that you use your ears with? Possible a USB microphone or something like that? Like I said, if that's the case, then you need to reassign the IRQ ports to another channel, because I think a conflict may be happening that is causing the external device to take over the sound, when it shouldn't be. Either way, if you don't have any external device plugged into your computer, then all of this is a moot point. Smile. Victor Co-moderator Blind Movie Buffs List Guidedogs List Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Tim trouble Verizon support tech Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance. --Sam Brown Blindeudora list owner. To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable
Hi Jewel, I believe that there have been many good ideas. The glass jar will work but I am pretty sure that it will still have a plastic or metal lid. One thing that I just thought of would to get a small piece of pvc drain line and end caps. you could drill a hole in the end cap slide the wires inside and make the connections then glue the end caps in place. then seal the hole where the wires go inside. I would also suggest to contact a local electric supply house. They may have something ready made for that particular application. If you do use the glass jar I would also get a grommet to put inside the hole to protect the wire, then seal everything. Quite a few years ago I made a lamp out of a Yuengling quart beer bottle. After drilling the hole which was clean it still have sharp edges both inside and outside. the outside one could be sanded but it was highly improbable to finish the inside. a 3/8 grommet worked perfectly. I found those at a local electronic supply house. Lenny - Original Message - From: Jewel jewelbla...@xtra.co.nz To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 5:50 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable I think that I will stick to my jar idea. I will replace the plastic jar with a glass one that I have found, and will get a glazier's drill. I feel more confident of the durability of the glass than I do of the plastic. I will also spread some silicon around the holes to keep any water out. Thank you all for your helpful suggestions. Jewel - Original Message - From: cheetah cheet...@frontiernet.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 2:41 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable hi jewel the only thing would do is put a mess of calk around the cable where it goes through the jar ends. Jim Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links __ NOD32 3688 (20081212) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Repair a Kitchen Cabinet
Tom, I don't think Ray asked the question. I think he gets these things from a question and answer type site. earlier, Tom Hodges, wrote: First of all, I am a bit confused. It seems you asked a question then answered it yourself. Regardless, I would not run screws through the inside back of a kitchen cabinet. There is a top and bottom rail on the outside of the cabinet for this purpose. No washers are required because the wood is three quarters of an inch (usually) and very hard. If you run a screw through the back of the cabinet into the wall and then load the cabinet with heavy items such as canned goods, you can rip the cabinet right off the wall except for the backing plate. _ From: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ray Boyce Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:43 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Repair a Kitchen Cabinet I noticed only three of the six screws that hold my kitchen cabinets on the wall are anchored in a stud. The other three were so loose that they pulled out of the wall with my fingers. How do I fix this? The installers must have missed the studs when fastening the cabinet. The screws that pulled away were likely only fastened to drywall or plaster and they stripped out from the weaker material. The easiest way to locate the studs is to use a stud finder above or below the cabinet case. Once you know the wall stud location, you can measure inside the cabinet to locate where you'll drive a screw through the back of the case and into the stud. The stud is probably just to the left or right of the existing screw hole. Use screws that are a minimum of 2-1/2 inches, and choose fasteners with large heads or washers to make sure the cabinets cinch up to the wall. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1846 - Release Date: 12/12/2008 6:59 PM John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] audio level
Bob, is the audio loud on the Stabila? I have a Sears and can't hear the darn thing! _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 8:27 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] audio level Well my vote goes for the Stabila model. I have the 4 foot model and love it. - Original Message - From: f barg To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 6:56 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] audio level I am looking for a audio level, I can no longer see the bubble of my old one. I would appreciate any suggestions. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] fireplace flute
You could check with local fireplace dealers, they may be able to help you. _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 12:24 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] fireplace flute Hey Guys, We bought our house last year and did not get the key to the flute on the fireplace. Does anyone know where or how I get something like this replaced? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable
I have read through most of this thread and am still wondering if we are talking about the lower primary voltage to this system or the much higher secondary that runs on the bare single wire. Splicing the lower primary under 600 volts is easly done with a splicing kit from a electrical supply house or as some have mentioned submusable pump people. If we are dealing with the much high voltage of the fence itselt It is still possible . Underground splices up to and around the 15,000 volt range is done routinely. Mainly the insulation is much thicker. Building over the splice with linerless splicing tape. A self vulcanizing rubber tape is the least expensive way of getting this thicker insulation. Top coating with a Scotch Kote or brand or other will waterproof it. Glass breaks way too easy for me. Particulary with road traffic over it. If using jars I vote for the plastic and filling with plain grease will waterproof things once the proper insulation is applied over the splice itself. Ron - Original Message - From: Jewel To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 8:39 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable I will ask one of the specialist hardware dealers in town about dielectric grease. Jewel - Original Message - From: NLG nge...@pennswoods.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 3:26 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable I would put dielectric grease on the splice. If the jar isn't huge, I would fill it also with dielectric grease. - Original Message - From: Jewel jewelbla...@xtra.co.nz To: bhm blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 08:34 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable I have widened a gateway under which runs the cable carrying the electricity to my hot wire fence. Consequently, I have had to extend the cable. Preventing the joint from coming in contact with water and soil: both implacable enemies of electricity: is the essential component to making the extension work. What I have done is to drill a hole in the lid and bottom of a plastic jar: fed the cable through the holes so that one cable has the lid threaded on to it, and the other, the jar itself. I then clamped the two cables together and pulled the cable back so that the clamp is enclosed within the jar and screwed the lid on. I haven't reburied the cable yet, as I wanted to know if you think that what I have done, to date, is sufficient protection. When I do dig the cable back in, I plan to put a brick on either side of the jar so that, if a vehicle should pass over top of it, it will be the bricks that will take the weight, leaving the jar unhurt! I would have preferred to use a glass jar, but I did not know how to drill a hole through glass: hence the ubiquitous plastic jar. If I had used a glass jar, its life within the ground would be very long, but what about the plastic. It is not too late to change the jars if anyone can tell me a good, safe way to drill through glass! Any better ideas will be studied and evaluated for their betterness! Jewel Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_posit ion=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_posit ion=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Repair a Kitchen Cabinet
If you pay attention to the whole article you'll notice it's a question and answer session where someone is asking the expert a question and the expert gives the answer below the question. - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 8:43 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Repair a Kitchen Cabinet First of all, I am a bit confused. It seems you asked a question then answered it yourself. Regardless, I would not run screws through the inside back of a kitchen cabinet. There is a top and bottom rail on the outside of the cabinet for this purpose. No washers are required because the wood is three quarters of an inch (usually) and very hard. If you run a screw through the back of the cabinet into the wall and then load the cabinet with heavy items such as canned goods, you can rip the cabinet right off the wall except for the backing plate. _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ray Boyce Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:43 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Repair a Kitchen Cabinet I noticed only three of the six screws that hold my kitchen cabinets on the wall are anchored in a stud. The other three were so loose that they pulled out of the wall with my fingers. How do I fix this? The installers must have missed the studs when fastening the cabinet. The screws that pulled away were likely only fastened to drywall or plaster and they stripped out from the weaker material. The easiest way to locate the studs is to use a stud finder above or below the cabinet case. Once you know the wall stud location, you can measure inside the cabinet to locate where you'll drive a screw through the back of the case and into the stud. The stud is probably just to the left or right of the existing screw hole. Use screws that are a minimum of 2-1/2 inches, and choose fasteners with large heads or washers to make sure the cabinets cinch up to the wall. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] audio level
If you want to call me some time I'll let you hear it. Write me at bobke...@bellsouth.net and I'll send you my phone number. I don't have any problem hearing it and I worked outside putting up my building with it. - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 9:26 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] audio level Bob, is the audio loud on the Stabila? I have a Sears and can't hear the darn thing! _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 8:27 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] audio level Well my vote goes for the Stabila model. I have the 4 foot model and love it. - Original Message - From: f barg To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 6:56 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] audio level I am looking for a audio level, I can no longer see the bubble of my old one. I would appreciate any suggestions. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers again
Hi all, you all have convinced me that I really need a Palm Nailer. If for no other reason I can use standard nails. Here if I purchase a finishing nail gun I can only get nails in boxes of 3000, I think I will have stopped using a nail gun before I finish all the boxes of different size nails I will have needed. Unfortunately I can not find a Palm Nailer in Australia. I have contacted the big hardware stores, asked my local ones and nobody knows what I am asking fore. I have taken a picture with me to show them what I want still no luck. From my research, it appears that they may only be available in the US and Canada. Before I consider purchasing one from the US I would like to know what are good and not so good brands. I have taken a look on the harbor Freight and Bostitch sites. I need quarter inch size fittings. Here the fittings I have are called Nita fittings. I am not sure about that spelling though. Finally if I do purchase from the US, what are good reliable people to buy from? If this topic has gone to long on the list please write directly to me. Thanks as always for any help. Max.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers again
I'd stay away from Harbor Freight. However, Bostich is a very good brand. All of the other big names you read about over here make them too. Porter Cable, Dewalt and Passload. I'm not sure about the air fittings between here and there. Most air tools come with the same female pipe thread fitting and you supply the end that fits your connector to the air supply. The fun will be in finding a place that will ship over seas. Many places won't even ship to Canada from inside the states, but I haven't studied the problem much since I live in the states and don't have a problem shipping. - Original Message - From: Agent86b To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:52 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers again Hi all, you all have convinced me that I really need a Palm Nailer. If for no other reason I can use standard nails. Here if I purchase a finishing nail gun I can only get nails in boxes of 3000, I think I will have stopped using a nail gun before I finish all the boxes of different size nails I will have needed. Unfortunately I can not find a Palm Nailer in Australia. I have contacted the big hardware stores, asked my local ones and nobody knows what I am asking fore. I have taken a picture with me to show them what I want still no luck. From my research, it appears that they may only be available in the US and Canada. Before I consider purchasing one from the US I would like to know what are good and not so good brands. I have taken a look on the harbor Freight and Bostitch sites. I need quarter inch size fittings. Here the fittings I have are called Nita fittings. I am not sure about that spelling though. Finally if I do purchase from the US, what are good reliable people to buy from? If this topic has gone to long on the list please write directly to me. Thanks as always for any help. Max. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
