Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

2009-01-15 Thread Bob Kennedy
The grinder that is set up for chisels and some plane irons is the Work Sharp 
3000.  That has a little window or port on the side of the machine and the 
angle is already set for you.  

There are a bunch of other grinders and if you have the money a couple of very 
expensive sharpening systems out there Like Tormek and Jet.  

If you want to sharpen by hand, I'd suggest getting a jig for it.  It's tough 
trying to keep the same angle each stroke.  I saw a very impressive tool for 
hand sharpening at Woodcraft.  It is made by Pinnacle.  It has preset angles 
you choose and it locks at that angle until you actually make a change.  The 
cool thing is it has a definite stop for each of the angles so all you'd need 
to do is count to the one you want.  The draw back is you have to use the 
angles that are built in, you can't add or subtract a couple degrees to finish 
with.  But you'll always get the same angle when you're finished.  

Just go on a couple of the sites we talk about often and search for sharpen and 
you'll have a whole evening of reading to do...


  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades


  Hi,

  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
  for sharpening. 

  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.

  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
  topic?

  Thanks,

  Keith



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] going to Louisiana

2009-01-15 Thread Lee A. Stone

How about some extra foam   coverings for things like your hammer Bob 
in case it drops down in the swamp? Good luck and thanks for all the 
good works you do for others. Lee

On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 07:24:44PM 
-0500, chiliblindman wrote:
>  I got two calls tonight about a work mission trip to Diamond, Louisiana. 
>  They needed my federal identification number for down there among some other 
> information.
>  I was invited to go along the week of Christmas and figured it was all 
> over by now since I heard nothing since.  If all goes well I'll fly down the 
> 25th of the month and stay for a week for sure to start.  Nothing is for sure 
> at this point yet.  There are a number of things that need to happen real 
> soon if I am going to make the list of needed people.
>  The area is Plaquemines Parish, south of New Orleans.  Over a 100 
> projects are in progress in the swampy area and most are on posts and pilings 
> driven into the bed below the mud.  The area includes the first miles of the 
> Mississippi River.
>  I guess some shorts and long pants will be in order along with bug 
> repellent.  I will be getting a list of tools they want me to take or send 
> down.  This will be the first test for my dell mini 9.  Verizon better have a 
> good signal down there.
> bob
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 

-- 
I was born in a Hostess Cupcake factory before the sexual revolution!
Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net


Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.

2009-01-15 Thread Dan Rossi
Well, the whole idea of perforating the i beam is now moot.  I did some 
more detailed groping of the i beam.  Remember, I often go off on mental 
paths without fully investigating reality first.

I know some of you won't understand, or possibly believe my explanation 
here.  Well, it turns out that the front side of the i beam is essentially 
inaccessible.  The cement slab of my porch floor, sits on the front side 
flange of the i beam.  Actually, imagine the slab of the porch floor to 
look something like a box lid.  It is a few inches thick although around 
the edges it is a couple of inches thicker than that.  The edge of this 
box lid affair sits in the gap between the flanges of the i beam.  In order 
to perforate the web of the i beam, I would have to go through several 
inches of concrete first, then the steel of the i beam.

Screw that!

I guess I will go under and around.  Not sure if I will use pex or reuse 
the Copper that is there, but try out Shark Bight or ProPress fittings.  I 
am not sure I want to try sweating pipes yet.

I may put a dirt leg in at the bottom of the U that goes under the i beam, 
with a drain in it so I can bleed water out if I believe the U is getting 
clogged with debris.

Again, my fantasy world may differ vastly from reality, so this project 
may never happen.  Although, I am putting in some real hard hours in my 
head.  *GRIN*

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel:(412) 268-9081


Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

2009-01-15 Thread Terry Klarich
I think Bob just about covered it.  The only thing I would add is, not only is 
the bevel important, the edge should be straight and
exactly 90 degrees from the plane of the iron or chisel.  Also, The honing step 
is very important.  Honing is the procedure of
removing the hook (of metal) left behind when setting the bevel and edge of the 
tool.  The only tool that should have a hook is a
scraper.

My honing setup is a delta variable speed grinder with cloth wheels.  I took 
off the fenders / guards / tool rests and turned the
motor around in the base.  Now, the wheels turn away instead of toward the 
operator.  I keep the left whell coated in WD40 and
jewelers rouge.  The right wheel is left un treated.  To hone a tool, I start 
with the left wheel and finish up with the right.
This grinder is also very helpful for polishing just about anything around the 
house.  A lot of times, a quick pass with this
grinder will restore the edge without having to go through the entire 
sharpening process.  This is especially true with my lathe
tools.  Bench chisels tend to need more work because the edge gets a dink out 
of it.  (At least in my shop).
I learned about this setup from an old wood carver buddy of mine.  He is an 
expert sharpener who's tools are always razor sharp.

When looking at sharpening systems, make sure there is an easy way to dress the 
stone or wheel.  If there isn't, you will never
achieve the results you want.

A sharper tool is a safer tool.  Learning to sharpen is as important as 
learning to use the tool.

That being said, if you looked at my bench chisels right now, I would be 
embarrissed.  Let me know you are coming so I can sharpen
them.  :)

Terry
On Thu, 15 Jan 2009 05:45:24 -0500you write:
>
>The grinder that is set up for chisels and some plane irons is the Work Sharp 
>3000.  That has a little window or port on the side 
>of the machine and the angle is already set for you.  
>
>There are a bunch of other grinders and if you have the money a couple of very 
>expensive sharpening systems out there Like Tormek 
>and Jet.  
>
>If you want to sharpen by hand, I'd suggest getting a jig for it.  It's tough 
>trying to keep the same angle each stroke.  I saw a 
>very impressive tool for hand sharpening at Woodcraft.  It is made by 
>Pinnacle.  It has preset angles you choose and it locks at t
>hat angle until you actually make a change.  The cool thing is it has a 
>definite stop for each of the angles so all you'd need to 
>do is count to the one you want.  The draw back is you have to use the angles 
>that are built in, you can't add or subtract a coupl
>e degrees to finish with.  But you'll always get the same angle when you're 
>finished.  
>
>Just go on a couple of the sites we talk about often and search for sharpen 
>and you'll have a whole evening of reading to do...
>
>
>  - Original Message - 
>  From: Keith Christian 
>  To: Blind Handyman 
>  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades
>
>
>  Hi,
>
>  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
>  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
>  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
>  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
>  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
>  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
>  for sharpening. 
>
>  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
>  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
>  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.
>
>  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
>  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
>  topic?
>
>  Thanks,
>
>  Keith


Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

2009-01-15 Thread RJ
For the kitchen knife, it is best to use a steel. If one uses a grinder of any 
kind the chance of ruining the knife is  good. The ideal is to hold the knife 
at the angle the factory set on the knife. Start the knife at the bottom of the 
steel, working upward and pulling the knife toward you. Turn the knife over 
with the edge upward Start at the top of the steell and work downward, pulling 
the knife toward you. You can hear when the knife begins to take on a edge. for 
the noise level goes down.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades


  Hi,

  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
  for sharpening. 

  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.

  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
  topic?

  Thanks,

  Keith



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades

2009-01-15 Thread Lenny McHugh
What works even better is ceramic. Years ago I came across some old tubes 
for the old style wiring, knob and post. This tube makes the best knife 
sharpener that I ever used. My son-in-law was a chef and used the steel rod. 
I sharpened one of his knives and it was much sharper. The first time I 
sharpened Karen's knives she became a little upset. When finished she wanted 
to wash them, while drying she sliced a new drying towel.
As a kid I remember my mother using the bottom of a ceramic coffee cup as a 
sharpener or a small saucer. She used the bottom portion that had no glaze 
on it.
For the wiring tubes, I gave some to all of my old fishing buddies. They all 
kept one in their tackle box and one used them to sharpen his hunting 
arrows.
- Original Message - 
From: "RJ" 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades


For the kitchen knife, it is best to use a steel. If one uses a grinder of 
any kind the chance of ruining the knife is  good. The ideal is to hold the 
knife at the angle the factory set on the knife. Start the knife at the 
bottom of the steel, working upward and pulling the knife toward you. Turn 
the knife over with the edge upward Start at the top of the steell and work 
downward, pulling the knife toward you. You can hear when the knife begins 
to take on a edge. for the noise level goes down.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian
  To: Blind Handyman
  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades


  Hi,

  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
  for sharpening.

  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.

  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
  topic?

  Thanks,

  Keith





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Send any questions regarding list management to:
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List Members At The Following address:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

2009-01-15 Thread Robert Riddle
I've got a long round metal rod that came with my knife set. Are you supposed 
to hold the blade perpendicular to the steel, that is, the ends of hte knife 
and rod are at right angles to each other? Clarify your message a bit mire, in 
other words, if ye wouldn't mind.
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 10:23 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades


  For the kitchen knife, it is best to use a steel. If one uses a grinder of 
any kind the chance of ruining the knife is good. The ideal is to hold the 
knife at the angle the factory set on the knife. Start the knife at the bottom 
of the steel, working upward and pulling the knife toward you. Turn the knife 
over with the edge upward Start at the top of the steell and work downward, 
pulling the knife toward you. You can hear when the knife begins to take on a 
edge. for the noise level goes down.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  Hi,

  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
  for sharpening. 

  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.

  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
  topic?

  Thanks,

  Keith

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades

2009-01-15 Thread RJ
Come to think of it. my grandmother had a steel made of ceramic
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 11:50 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades


  What works even better is ceramic. Years ago I came across some old tubes 
  for the old style wiring, knob and post. This tube makes the best knife 
  sharpener that I ever used. My son-in-law was a chef and used the steel rod. 
  I sharpened one of his knives and it was much sharper. The first time I 
  sharpened Karen's knives she became a little upset. When finished she wanted 
  to wash them, while drying she sliced a new drying towel.
  As a kid I remember my mother using the bottom of a ceramic coffee cup as a 
  sharpener or a small saucer. She used the bottom portion that had no glaze 
  on it.
  For the wiring tubes, I gave some to all of my old fishing buddies. They all 
  kept one in their tackle box and one used them to sharpen his hunting 
  arrows.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "RJ" 
  To: 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 11:23 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  For the kitchen knife, it is best to use a steel. If one uses a grinder of 
  any kind the chance of ruining the knife is good. The ideal is to hold the 
  knife at the angle the factory set on the knife. Start the knife at the 
  bottom of the steel, working upward and pulling the knife toward you. Turn 
  the knife over with the edge upward Start at the top of the steell and work 
  downward, pulling the knife toward you. You can hear when the knife begins 
  to take on a edge. for the noise level goes down.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian
  To: Blind Handyman
  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  Hi,

  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
  for sharpening.

  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.

  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
  topic?

  Thanks,

  Keith

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

  If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
  address for more information:
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  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.

2009-01-15 Thread William Stephan
Dan:

 

I guess whether you do the drain or not would depend on how hard or soft
your water is.  Alternatively, you could do as a friend of mine just did,
and put a household-wide water softener on your main intake line.

 

 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 08:35
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.

 

Well, the whole idea of perforating the i beam is now moot. I did some 
more detailed groping of the i beam. Remember, I often go off on mental 
paths without fully investigating reality first.

I know some of you won't understand, or possibly believe my explanation 
here. Well, it turns out that the front side of the i beam is essentially 
inaccessible. The cement slab of my porch floor, sits on the front side 
flange of the i beam. Actually, imagine the slab of the porch floor to 
look something like a box lid. It is a few inches thick although around 
the edges it is a couple of inches thicker than that. The edge of this 
box lid affair sits in the gap between the flanges of the i beam. In order 
to perforate the web of the i beam, I would have to go through several 
inches of concrete first, then the steel of the i beam.

Screw that!

I guess I will go under and around. Not sure if I will use pex or reuse 
the Copper that is there, but try out Shark Bight or ProPress fittings. I 
am not sure I want to try sweating pipes yet.

I may put a dirt leg in at the bottom of the U that goes under the i beam, 
with a drain in it so I can bleed water out if I believe the U is getting 
clogged with debris.

Again, my fantasy world may differ vastly from reality, so this project 
may never happen. Although, I am putting in some real hard hours in my 
head. *GRIN*

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.  cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Getting transmitting twin open wire line through a wall.

2009-01-15 Thread Max Robinson
Lenny wrote.

> Years ago I came across some old tubes
> for the old style wiring, knob and post.

Those ceramic tubes make excellent insulators for passing open wire line or 
a long wire antenna through an outside wall.  When I lived in Florida I used 
a long wire matched with a Viking Matchbox.  My dad found a ceramic tube 
from some old house renovation he had worked on.  I never had any arcing 
over with that insulator.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com

- Original Message - 
From: "Lenny McHugh" 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades


> What works even better is ceramic. Years ago I came across some old tubes
> for the old style wiring, knob and post. This tube makes the best knife
> sharpener that I ever used. My son-in-law was a chef and used the steel 
> rod.
> I sharpened one of his knives and it was much sharper. The first time I
> sharpened Karen's knives she became a little upset. When finished she 
> wanted
> to wash them, while drying she sliced a new drying towel.
> As a kid I remember my mother using the bottom of a ceramic coffee cup as 
> a
> sharpener or a small saucer. She used the bottom portion that had no glaze
> on it.
> For the wiring tubes, I gave some to all of my old fishing buddies. They 
> all
> kept one in their tackle box and one used them to sharpen his hunting
> arrows.
> - Original Message - 
> From: "RJ" 
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 11:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades
>
>
> For the kitchen knife, it is best to use a steel. If one uses a grinder of
> any kind the chance of ruining the knife is  good. The ideal is to hold 
> the
> knife at the angle the factory set on the knife. Start the knife at the
> bottom of the steel, working upward and pulling the knife toward you. Turn
> the knife over with the edge upward Start at the top of the steell and 
> work
> downward, pulling the knife toward you. You can hear when the knife begins
> to take on a edge. for the noise level goes down.
> RJ
>  - Original Message - 
>  From: Keith Christian
>  To: Blind Handyman
>  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades
>
>
>  Hi,
>
>  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
>  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
>  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
>  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
>  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
>  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
>  for sharpening.
>
>  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
>  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
>  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.
>
>  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
>  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
>  topic?
>
>  Thanks,
>
>  Keith
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list
> just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
> __ NOD32 3768 (20090115) Information __
>
> This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
> 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades

2009-01-15 Thread William Stephan
I have one that's supposedly make from diamond dust.  It actually works very
well, and I can even sharpen seraded blades with it.  I bought it from

www.hitchingpostsupply.com <http://www.hitchingpostsupply.com/> 

in case anybody's interested.  It has a nice plastic handle on one end.

 

 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of RJ
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 12:16
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades

 

Come to think of it. my grandmother had a steel made of ceramic
- Original Message - 
From: Lenny McHugh 
To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades

What works even better is ceramic. Years ago I came across some old tubes 
for the old style wiring, knob and post. This tube makes the best knife 
sharpener that I ever used. My son-in-law was a chef and used the steel rod.

I sharpened one of his knives and it was much sharper. The first time I 
sharpened Karen's knives she became a little upset. When finished she wanted

to wash them, while drying she sliced a new drying towel.
As a kid I remember my mother using the bottom of a ceramic coffee cup as a 
sharpener or a small saucer. She used the bottom portion that had no glaze 
on it.
For the wiring tubes, I gave some to all of my old fishing buddies. They all

kept one in their tackle box and one used them to sharpen his hunting 
arrows.
- Original Message - 
From: "RJ" mailto:rjf1%40velocity.net> net>
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

For the kitchen knife, it is best to use a steel. If one uses a grinder of 
any kind the chance of ruining the knife is good. The ideal is to hold the 
knife at the angle the factory set on the knife. Start the knife at the 
bottom of the steel, working upward and pulling the knife toward you. Turn 
the knife over with the edge upward Start at the top of the steell and work 
downward, pulling the knife toward you. You can hear when the knife begins 
to take on a edge. for the noise level goes down.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Keith Christian
To: Blind Handyman
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

Hi,

I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
for sharpening.

I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.

As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
topic?

Thanks,

Keith

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Getting transmitting twin open wire line through a wall.

2009-01-15 Thread William Stephan
sten to the show archives go to link
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

2009-01-15 Thread RJ
Take the knife and make a 90 degree across the steel. Hold the knife at the 
angle of the bevel of the cut edge of the knife. Draw the knife up or down the 
steel, striking the knife with the cut side away from the stroke of the knife 
and pulling the knife toward you. Since I lost my sight. I will place the steel 
on a cutting board with the point of the steel down to be able to get the angle 
I want.
Hope this helps. The angle of the steel or knife isn't that important, but the 
closer you can get the angle of the bevel, the better. I use about a 15 degree 
angle  on my good knifes.

RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert Riddle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 1:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades


  I've got a long round metal rod that came with my knife set. Are you supposed 
to hold the blade perpendicular to the steel, that is, the ends of hte knife 
and rod are at right angles to each other? Clarify your message a bit mire, in 
other words, if ye wouldn't mind.
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 10:23 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  For the kitchen knife, it is best to use a steel. If one uses a grinder of 
any kind the chance of ruining the knife is good. The ideal is to hold the 
knife at the angle the factory set on the knife. Start the knife at the bottom 
of the steel, working upward and pulling the knife toward you. Turn the knife 
over with the edge upward Start at the top of the steell and work downward, 
pulling the knife toward you. You can hear when the knife begins to take on a 
edge. for the noise level goes down.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  Hi,

  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
  for sharpening. 

  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.

  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
  topic?

  Thanks,

  Keith

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

2009-01-15 Thread Tom Fowle
Sharpening kitchen knives with a steel, as I do it?
Hold the steel in your right hand with the end pointing 45 degrees left of
straight ahead
Hold the knife in your left hand with the  point aimed 45 degrees right of
straight ahead, so the knife and steel are at 90 degrees to each other.
The edge of the blade is away from you, to your left, and the blade
starts out on top of the steel.


Start at the bottom of the steel and the close end of the blade.  You need 
a slight angle raising the back edge of the knife, trying to duplicate
the factory'f final befel on the edge.  

Draw your hands apart, thus moving the steel up along the knife and drawing
it towards the blade edge.  If your angle is too shallow, you won't
feel any "grinding" action.  If the angle is too steep, it will
rasp and jiggle.  If it's just right, it will slightly grind, although you're
not really removing material, just reshaping it.

At the end of the stroke, bring the steel and blade back together at there 
handle
ends again and repeat the stroke a few times.

Now move the knife to the bottom under the steel and lower
the back edge of the blade to duplicate the angle but on the other
edge of the blade.  Stroke towards the point of the knife
and point of the steel again repeating the stroke a few times.

You can go from side to side of the blade each stroke if you wish, but that
means you have to keep establishing your bevel angle each stroke.

I find it easier to do repeating the stroke a few times on each
edge then flipping to the other side of the
blade for a few strokes.

The way described I think by Terry, 
has you turning the knife over each stroke and going opposite directions on the
steel.  This works fine, but one stroke brings the knife towards the hand that's
holding the steel.  Slipping here can bring the blade to your hand.

Do this slowly at first till you get used to the proper angle between blade and
steel.  It's better to be too shallow than too steep, too shallow
does almost nothing, too steep removes material from the blade edge and ruins it
quickly.

If your knife is in basically good shape, all it needs is a few strokes 
once in a while to keep the final bevel honed.  If it needs "real" 
sharpening, the steel won't do and you'll need it ground to reproduce
the final bevel.

BTW, this technique is only for "hollow ground' real knives, if you are so 
desperate as to have serated knives, don't bother, nothing can be 
done with them.  Serated knives don't cut, they 
rip, tear and destroy. 

some larger knives like cleavers aren't hollow ground, they just
have a single steep befel. These require a much steeper blade angle to
sharpen.

Now if I could only figure out how to describe the proper shape
of a "hollow ground" edge.

Hope this makes some sense.

Oh, I tell if a knife is truly sharp with a ripe tomato ro fresh soft
bread.  If moving the knife genly over such a surface doesn't immediately
start cutting into it without pressure or sawing, then the knife is not sharp.


Tom Fowle



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

2009-01-15 Thread Rob Monitor
HI, Speaking of sharpening blades, has any one on the list seen or herd of the 
sharp-all machine.. The thing is so post to sharpen saw blades and almost any 
thing else.. Just wondering  if a blind guy could use this machine or not..
ROB FROM MINNESOTA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert Riddle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 12:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades


  I've got a long round metal rod that came with my knife set. Are you supposed 
to hold the blade perpendicular to the steel, that is, the ends of hte knife 
and rod are at right angles to each other? Clarify your message a bit mire, in 
other words, if ye wouldn't mind.
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 10:23 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  For the kitchen knife, it is best to use a steel. If one uses a grinder of 
any kind the chance of ruining the knife is good. The ideal is to hold the 
knife at the angle the factory set on the knife. Start the knife at the bottom 
of the steel, working upward and pulling the knife toward you. Turn the knife 
over with the edge upward Start at the top of the steell and work downward, 
pulling the knife toward you. You can hear when the knife begins to take on a 
edge. for the noise level goes down.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  Hi,

  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
  for sharpening. 

  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.

  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
  topic?

  Thanks,

  Keith

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Recall: CPSC, Manufacturers Announce Changes to 1998 Recall Program to Replace Dangerous Home Heating Vent Pipes

2009-01-15 Thread Betsy Whitney
CPSC, Manufacturers Announce Changes to 1998 Recall Program to 
Replace Dangerous Home Heating Vent Pipes

Remedy Changes for Registrations after May 1, 2009

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) 
and various home heating furnace, boiler, and high-temperature 
plastic vent (HTPV)
manufacturers are urging home owners who have not yet responded to 
the previously-announced 1998 recall, to do so immediately. After May 
1, 2009, the remedy
consumers receive under the existing program, which has been 
operating continuously for almost 11 years, will change.

The recall, first announced in February 1998, included about 250,000 
Plexvent and Ultravent HTPV pipe systems attached to gas or propane 
furnaces and boilers
in homes. The HTPV pipes can crack or separate at the joints and leak 
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) gas. The following table includes the 
different remedies
available to consumers with qualifying heating systems vented with 
two leading brands of HTPV pipe - Plexvent and Ultravent.

For valid claims initiated on or before May 1, 2009, with remediation 
completed and required documentation submitted by October 1, 2009: 
Plexvent owners
will receive a new, professionally-installed venting system free of 
charge or a rebate up to $$400 towards purchase of a new, 
high-efficiency appliance
from the same manufacturer that does not require HTPV.  Ultravent 
owners will receive a new, professionally-installed venting system 
for about $$250 or
a rebate of $$250 towards purchase of a new, high-efficiency 
appliance from the same manufacturer that does not require HTPV.

For valid claims initiated after May 1, 2009: Plexvent owners will 
receive a rebate up to $$400 toward either an HTPV replacement 
system, or a new, high-efficiency
appliance from the same manufacturer that does not require 
HTPV.  Ultravent owners will receive a rebate up to $$250 
toward  either an HTPV replacement
system, or a new, high-efficiency appliance from the same 
manufacturer that does not require HTPV.

Consumers who register after May 1, 2009 and who choose to repair 
their systems will be responsible for up-front payment of parts, 
labor and permits, and
will be responsible for arranging to have the work performed.

Consumers should determine whether they have a recalled HTPV pipe 
system by checking the vent pipes attached to their natural gas or 
propane furnace or
boiler. Vent pipes subject to this recall can be identified as follows:

the vent pipes are plastic;

the vent pipes are colored gray or black;

"Plexvent," "Plexvent II" or "Ultravent" is stamped on the vent pipe 
or printed on stickers placed on pieces used to connect the vent pipes; and

the vent pipes are located on furnaces (and the pipes go through the 
sidewalls of structures) or on boilers.

Other plastic vent pipes, such as white PVC, are not included in the recall.

After checking the vent pipes, consumers should call (800) 758-3688 
between 8 a.m. and 7 p.m. ET Monday through Friday to sign up for 
HTPV pipe system replacement.
The following manufacturers are participating in this program:

Armstrong Air Conditioning Inc., Bard Manufacturing Co., Burnham 
Corp., Dunkirk Radiator Corp., Evcon Industries Inc., Heat Controller 
Inc., International
Comfort Prod. Corp.(USA), Lennox Industries Inc., Nordyne Inc., 
Peerless Heater Co., Pennco Inc., Plexco Inc., Raypak Inc., Rheem 
Manufacturing Co., Slant/Fin
Corp., The Trane Co., Trianco-Heatmaker Inc., Utica Boilers Inc., 
Vaillant Corp., Weil-McLain, Westcast Inc., York International 
Corp.York International
Corp.

CPSC reminds all consumers to have fuel-burning appliances 
professionally inspected each year to check for cracks or separations 
in the vents that could
allow CO to leak into the home. In addition, CPSC recommends that 
every home should have at least one CO alarm.

To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the 
recalled products, please go to:

http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09099.html




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Recall: CPSC, Manufacturers Announce Changes to 1998 Recall Program to Replace Dangerous Home Heating Vent Pipes

2009-01-15 Thread David Ferrin
Good job Betsy.
David Ferrin
I believe that tomorrow is another day, and I'll probably screw that one up
too.
- Original Message - 
From: "Betsy Whitney" 
To: "blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com" 
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 5:47 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Recall: CPSC, Manufacturers Announce Changes to 
1998 Recall Program to Replace Dangerous Home Heating Vent Pipes


CPSC, Manufacturers Announce Changes to 1998 Recall Program to
Replace Dangerous Home Heating Vent Pipes

Remedy Changes for Registrations after May 1, 2009

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)
and various home heating furnace, boiler, and high-temperature
plastic vent (HTPV)
manufacturers are urging home owners who have not yet responded to
the previously-announced 1998 recall, to do so immediately. After May
1, 2009, the remedy
consumers receive under the existing program, which has been
operating continuously for almost 11 years, will change.

The recall, first announced in February 1998, included about 250,000
Plexvent and Ultravent HTPV pipe systems attached to gas or propane
furnaces and boilers
in homes. The HTPV pipes can crack or separate at the joints and leak
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) gas. The following table includes the
different remedies
available to consumers with qualifying heating systems vented with
two leading brands of HTPV pipe - Plexvent and Ultravent.

For valid claims initiated on or before May 1, 2009, with remediation
completed and required documentation submitted by October 1, 2009:
Plexvent owners
will receive a new, professionally-installed venting system free of
charge or a rebate up to $$400 towards purchase of a new,
high-efficiency appliance
from the same manufacturer that does not require HTPV.  Ultravent
owners will receive a new, professionally-installed venting system
for about $$250 or
a rebate of $$250 towards purchase of a new, high-efficiency
appliance from the same manufacturer that does not require HTPV.

For valid claims initiated after May 1, 2009: Plexvent owners will
receive a rebate up to $$400 toward either an HTPV replacement
system, or a new, high-efficiency
appliance from the same manufacturer that does not require
HTPV.  Ultravent owners will receive a rebate up to $$250
toward  either an HTPV replacement
system, or a new, high-efficiency appliance from the same
manufacturer that does not require HTPV.

Consumers who register after May 1, 2009 and who choose to repair
their systems will be responsible for up-front payment of parts,
labor and permits, and
will be responsible for arranging to have the work performed.

Consumers should determine whether they have a recalled HTPV pipe
system by checking the vent pipes attached to their natural gas or
propane furnace or
boiler. Vent pipes subject to this recall can be identified as follows:

the vent pipes are plastic;

the vent pipes are colored gray or black;

"Plexvent," "Plexvent II" or "Ultravent" is stamped on the vent pipe
or printed on stickers placed on pieces used to connect the vent pipes; and

the vent pipes are located on furnaces (and the pipes go through the
sidewalls of structures) or on boilers.

Other plastic vent pipes, such as white PVC, are not included in the recall.

After checking the vent pipes, consumers should call (800) 758-3688
between 8 a.m. and 7 p.m. ET Monday through Friday to sign up for
HTPV pipe system replacement.
The following manufacturers are participating in this program:

Armstrong Air Conditioning Inc., Bard Manufacturing Co., Burnham
Corp., Dunkirk Radiator Corp., Evcon Industries Inc., Heat Controller
Inc., International
Comfort Prod. Corp.(USA), Lennox Industries Inc., Nordyne Inc.,
Peerless Heater Co., Pennco Inc., Plexco Inc., Raypak Inc., Rheem
Manufacturing Co., Slant/Fin
Corp., The Trane Co., Trianco-Heatmaker Inc., Utica Boilers Inc.,
Vaillant Corp., Weil-McLain, Westcast Inc., York International
Corp.York International
Corp.

CPSC reminds all consumers to have fuel-burning appliances
professionally inspected each year to check for cracks or separations
in the vents that could
allow CO to leak into the home. In addition, CPSC recommends that
every home should have at least one CO alarm.

To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the
recalled products, please go to:

http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09099.html





Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.

2009-01-15 Thread Dale Leavens
Dan,

There is something I don't understand here. The water pipe goes under the beam 
now doesn't it?

What changes besides raising it tighter under the joists to continue it's way 
to feed the rest of the building?


  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 9:35 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.


  Well, the whole idea of perforating the i beam is now moot. I did some 
  more detailed groping of the i beam. Remember, I often go off on mental 
  paths without fully investigating reality first.

  I know some of you won't understand, or possibly believe my explanation 
  here. Well, it turns out that the front side of the i beam is essentially 
  inaccessible. The cement slab of my porch floor, sits on the front side 
  flange of the i beam. Actually, imagine the slab of the porch floor to 
  look something like a box lid. It is a few inches thick although around 
  the edges it is a couple of inches thicker than that. The edge of this 
  box lid affair sits in the gap between the flanges of the i beam. In order 
  to perforate the web of the i beam, I would have to go through several 
  inches of concrete first, then the steel of the i beam.

  Screw that!

  I guess I will go under and around. Not sure if I will use pex or reuse 
  the Copper that is there, but try out Shark Bight or ProPress fittings. I 
  am not sure I want to try sweating pipes yet.

  I may put a dirt leg in at the bottom of the U that goes under the i beam, 
  with a drain in it so I can bleed water out if I believe the U is getting 
  clogged with debris.

  Again, my fantasy world may differ vastly from reality, so this project 
  may never happen. Although, I am putting in some real hard hours in my 
  head. *GRIN*

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] oil tank level indicator

2009-01-15 Thread Lenny McHugh
Today I had an oil delivery. The tank was pretty low the indicator was  a 
little under the 1/4 mark. After they dropped 211 gallons Karen looked at 
the indicator to see exactly how it reads, The indicator above the full line 
or level with it. She panicked because it did not change. Just assuming that 
it was stuck I unscrewed the plastic view tube. As soon as I got it loose I 
could hear  air being pushed out as the indicator rose. In the many years 
that the tank has been installed this is the first time that the indicator 
appeared to be air locked. Is there a preventative fix for this or was it 
just a fluke?
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
Lenny




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[BlindHandyMan] plastic wood

2009-01-15 Thread Lenny McHugh
Well, it's pine wood derby building time again. Helping my grandson I got 
out some plastic wood to fill a gouge that he took out of the top. I had his 
dad read the setup time to see if we could put in a little then shortly 
after work more on the car and finish filling tonight. When we closed the 
lid I was told that the storing instructions state to store it upside down. 
So if any of you have plastic wood the properly storage is upside-down.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
Lenny




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blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
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Or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades

2009-01-15 Thread Don
Hi Lenny, where can I get one of these ceramic tubes, too try knife sharpen 
with?  are something similar?
Talk later.  Don

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 10:50 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades


  What works even better is ceramic. Years ago I came across some old tubes 
  for the old style wiring, knob and post. This tube makes the best knife 
  sharpener that I ever used. My son-in-law was a chef and used the steel rod. 
  I sharpened one of his knives and it was much sharper. The first time I 
  sharpened Karen's knives she became a little upset. When finished she wanted 
  to wash them, while drying she sliced a new drying towel.
  As a kid I remember my mother using the bottom of a ceramic coffee cup as a 
  sharpener or a small saucer. She used the bottom portion that had no glaze 
  on it.
  For the wiring tubes, I gave some to all of my old fishing buddies. They all 
  kept one in their tackle box and one used them to sharpen his hunting 
  arrows.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "RJ" 
  To: 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 11:23 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  For the kitchen knife, it is best to use a steel. If one uses a grinder of 
  any kind the chance of ruining the knife is good. The ideal is to hold the 
  knife at the angle the factory set on the knife. Start the knife at the 
  bottom of the steel, working upward and pulling the knife toward you. Turn 
  the knife over with the edge upward Start at the top of the steell and work 
  downward, pulling the knife toward you. You can hear when the knife begins 
  to take on a edge. for the noise level goes down.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian
  To: Blind Handyman
  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  Hi,

  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
  for sharpening.

  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.

  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
  topic?

  Thanks,

  Keith

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

  If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
  address for more information:
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  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
  just send a blank message to:
  blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

  __ NOD32 3768 (20090115) Information __

  This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
  http://www.eset.com



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] plastic wood

2009-01-15 Thread Don
Great tip.  probably will store longer, like it should know the different. 
Talk later.  Don
- Original Message - 
From: "Lenny McHugh" 
To: "handyman-blind" 
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 6:06 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] plastic wood


> Well, it's pine wood derby building time again. Helping my grandson I got
> out some plastic wood to fill a gouge that he took out of the top. I had 
> his
> dad read the setup time to see if we could put in a little then shortly
> after work more on the car and finish filling tonight. When we closed the
> lid I was told that the storing instructions state to store it upside 
> down.
> So if any of you have plastic wood the properly storage is upside-down.
> ---
> Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
> with many resources for the blind.
> http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
> Lenny
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>





Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
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Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades

2009-01-15 Thread Dale Leavens
Don,

You can buy a ceramic knife sharpener much like a knife steel. They have a 
decent handle which can protect you from it slipping on the knife and cutting 
yourself. I bought mine many years ago from the same store I bought my butcher 
knife, you should find them near knives in most department stores or pay a 
little more at a specialty shop or maybe a hardware store.



  - Original Message - 
  From: Don 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 7:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades


  Hi Lenny, where can I get one of these ceramic tubes, too try knife sharpen 
with? are something similar?
  Talk later. Don

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 10:50 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades

  What works even better is ceramic. Years ago I came across some old tubes 
  for the old style wiring, knob and post. This tube makes the best knife 
  sharpener that I ever used. My son-in-law was a chef and used the steel rod. 
  I sharpened one of his knives and it was much sharper. The first time I 
  sharpened Karen's knives she became a little upset. When finished she wanted 
  to wash them, while drying she sliced a new drying towel.
  As a kid I remember my mother using the bottom of a ceramic coffee cup as a 
  sharpener or a small saucer. She used the bottom portion that had no glaze 
  on it.
  For the wiring tubes, I gave some to all of my old fishing buddies. They all 
  kept one in their tackle box and one used them to sharpen his hunting 
  arrows.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "RJ" 
  To: 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 11:23 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  For the kitchen knife, it is best to use a steel. If one uses a grinder of 
  any kind the chance of ruining the knife is good. The ideal is to hold the 
  knife at the angle the factory set on the knife. Start the knife at the 
  bottom of the steel, working upward and pulling the knife toward you. Turn 
  the knife over with the edge upward Start at the top of the steell and work 
  downward, pulling the knife toward you. You can hear when the knife begins 
  to take on a edge. for the noise level goes down.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian
  To: Blind Handyman
  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  Hi,

  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
  for sharpening.

  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.

  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
  topic?

  Thanks,

  Keith

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

  If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
  address for more information:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
  just send a blank message to:
  blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

  __ NOD32 3768 (20090115) Information __

  This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
  http://www.eset.com

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] plastic wood

2009-01-15 Thread Dale Leavens
Plastic wood uses denatured alcohol as a solvent. If it gets a little dry, 
add a little alcohol and it can be restored to it's beginning gooey state.



- Original Message - 
From: "Don" 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] plastic wood


> Great tip.  probably will store longer, like it should know the different.
> Talk later.  Don
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Lenny McHugh" 
> To: "handyman-blind" 
> Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 6:06 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] plastic wood
>
>
>> Well, it's pine wood derby building time again. Helping my grandson I got
>> out some plastic wood to fill a gouge that he took out of the top. I had
>> his
>> dad read the setup time to see if we could put in a little then shortly
>> after work more on the car and finish filling tonight. When we closed the
>> lid I was told that the storing instructions state to store it upside
>> down.
>> So if any of you have plastic wood the properly storage is upside-down.
>> ---
>> Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
>> with many resources for the blind.
>> http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
>> Lenny
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
>> address for more information:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list just send a blank message to:
>> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 




Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address 
for more information:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades

2009-01-15 Thread Lenny McHugh
I have no idea, Karen's uncle was an electrician. He had some in the 
basement. I wish that I hadn't given all away. They are about eight inches 
long. When the hole was drilled they were inserted and the end snapped off. 
So the ones you see in old basements are a few inches long.
- Original Message - 
From: "Don" 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades


Hi Lenny, where can I get one of these ceramic tubes, too try knife sharpen 
with?  are something similar?
Talk later.  Don

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 10:50 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening knife blades


  What works even better is ceramic. Years ago I came across some old tubes
  for the old style wiring, knob and post. This tube makes the best knife
  sharpener that I ever used. My son-in-law was a chef and used the steel 
rod.
  I sharpened one of his knives and it was much sharper. The first time I
  sharpened Karen's knives she became a little upset. When finished she 
wanted
  to wash them, while drying she sliced a new drying towel.
  As a kid I remember my mother using the bottom of a ceramic coffee cup as 
a
  sharpener or a small saucer. She used the bottom portion that had no glaze
  on it.
  For the wiring tubes, I gave some to all of my old fishing buddies. They 
all
  kept one in their tackle box and one used them to sharpen his hunting
  arrows.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "RJ" 
  To: 
  Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 11:23 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  For the kitchen knife, it is best to use a steel. If one uses a grinder of
  any kind the chance of ruining the knife is good. The ideal is to hold the
  knife at the angle the factory set on the knife. Start the knife at the
  bottom of the steel, working upward and pulling the knife toward you. Turn
  the knife over with the edge upward Start at the top of the steell and 
work
  downward, pulling the knife toward you. You can hear when the knife begins
  to take on a edge. for the noise level goes down.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian
  To: Blind Handyman
  Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sharpening blades

  Hi,

  I am very interested in learning how to sharpen chisels, knives, and
  hand planers. Is this something that I should consider doing with an
  oil or water stone? Or is it possible to get an attachment for my
  grinder to take care of sharpening in one step? It seems like there was
  a conversation a long time ago about a machine that had a bar that could
  be set for a particular angle and one could run their blade across it
  for sharpening.

  I have heard of people using several steps in the sharpening process.
  One step is a mild stone with 200 grit, then a 400 grit and then a
  leather strap or buffing wheel for polishing.

  As you can tell, I am at the learning end of this sharpening gig. Is
  there a sharpening FAQ that Ray or anyone else has put together on the
  topic?

  Thanks,

  Keith

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But...

2009-01-15 Thread Jennifer Jackson
I have heard that one big benifit for a blind person with the Dyson is that
it can suck up some pretty sizable materials without damaging or clogging
the machine.  What is your experience with this?  Ever since Leggos have
come into the house, I have been leaving most of the vacuuming to the
sighted members of the household.


Jennifer


Jennifer

- Original Message - 
From: "Andrew J. LaPointe" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 9:59 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But...


> Hi, just read your post here.  I had 2 electro luxes, an orrac, a kirby
and
> now a dyson.  If you ever have a chance to try out a dyson, do so.  I
think
> you will be pretty impressed.  There is no smell and as a bagless vac, you
> can't go wrong.  Also, the beater bar is great.  The customer service is
the
> best that I have ever worked with.  They know everything about their
product
> and have the best attitude toward the customer.  Andy
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
> Behalf Of Spiro
> Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 1:22 AM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But...
>
>
> claudia,
> I know you have a household to run and a child. I definitely understand
> the need for speed. But if you can, sometimes take your time to go slowly
> with the Oreck.
> I find that slow even changes the feel of the carpet back to a nice
> fluffier state. Almost that of the Electrolux.
> And, for hardly any money that canister side kick is nice.
> It, haha uses electrolux bags; I swap them.
> I don't really like the blet mechanism of the Oreck. I'd rather a gear
> drive with a slip, and an switch for neutral. The smell of burning belts
> when it eats a sock is nasty. heehee
> BTW stick with the oreck bags, they are a tighter weave than the off brand
> which breathe too much and start to stink (dog hair and dander) before
> they are filled. Then ya have to change the bag and wash the cloth outer
> bag.
> Oh and lastly, watch out for fibers or strings getting between the roller
> and the housing underneath. It will start to make a higher pitched sound,
> and then start to smell of belt as if you ate a sock. But no sock. Taking
> off the roller and unwrapping strings or carpet fibers is the only answer.
> P.I.A. if you ask me.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, 9 Jan 2009, Claudia wrote:
>
> > Thanks Spiro,
> >
> > I appreciate that.
> >
> > You would think that, as much as we pay for these vacuums, they could
make
> them a little less noisy?
> >
> > I have the Oreck Cannister vac too, and I used to hate those things, but
> it also picks up quite well; just can't get the job done as fast.
> >
> >
> > I'm off to take my tired self to sleep, in a few minutes, as I have to
> work in the morning!
> > Claudia
> >
> >  - Original Message -
> >  From: Spiro
> >  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> >  Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 11:46 PM
> >  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But...
> >
> >
> >  what's extreme about headphones that let in all but the first 80db of
> >  sound? Heehee
> >  You're a very sweet woman and I'm sure yur ears are precious to more
than
> >  just the general me.
> >
> >  On Thu, 8 Jan 2009, Claudia wrote:
> >
> >  > Okay Spiro,
> >  >
> >  > I think not.
> >  > LOL!
> >  > That sounds like I'd be taking things way to the extreme, so I'll
just
> deal with the noise, I suppose, but I won't like it!
> >  > Chuckle!
> >  >
> >  > Claudia
> >  >
> >  > - Original Message -
> >  > From: Spiro
> >  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> >  > Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 10:21 PM
> >  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But...
> >  >
> >  >
> >  > do you have a shooting shop near you? Yeah, I mean a gun shop.
> >  > I suggest that you go in, and ask for the cheapest shooting
headphones
> you
> >  > can get. I don't find the Oreck louder than all, a bit louder than
the
> >  > ElectroLux. But when I'm running my router, i am happy happy happy to
> have
> >  > an extra set of
> >  > *noise *cancelling *ear *protection!
> >  > I can't run the router for more than 5 mins without wanting to jump
out
> of
> >  > my skin. I do audio for a living. Also when i was into shooting
sports,
> >  > nothing bigger than a .32 or it would shorten the fun.
> >  > I think that *that will do you better than ear plugs.
> >  > There are even expensive Noise Cancelling Cans that allow a great bit
> of
> >  > sound through. but they are cancelling "rapid rise audio" like a
sudden
> >  > sound level rise (as ehn you fire a gun) and will eventually flatten
> out
> >  > on a vac; which may bring through more than you want and spend more
> than
> >  > you want on it.
> >  > Being blind, you'll have to do the vacuuming with no one around as it
> will
> >  > mess with your spacial a tiny bit and your "startle component" will
go
> way
> >  > up.
> >  > The cheapest might do you quite well.
> >  > The other

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But...

2009-01-15 Thread Lenny McHugh
Hi Jennifer,
Well, that reason for getting out of vacuuming is as good as why I am not 
allowed to cut the grass or shovel snow. Years ago I mowed down Karen's 
flowers so no longer allowed to mow the yard. Then when I hit the car with 
the snow shovel, it was taken away from me. Since I joined the zipper club 
the Dr. won't let me shovel snow as well.
- Original Message - 
From: "Jennifer Jackson" 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But...


I have heard that one big benifit for a blind person with the Dyson is that
it can suck up some pretty sizable materials without damaging or clogging
the machine.  What is your experience with this?  Ever since Leggos have
come into the house, I have been leaving most of the vacuuming to the
sighted members of the household.


Jennifer


Jennifer

- Original Message - 
From: "Andrew J. LaPointe" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 9:59 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But...


> Hi, just read your post here.  I had 2 electro luxes, an orrac, a kirby
and
> now a dyson.  If you ever have a chance to try out a dyson, do so.  I
think
> you will be pretty impressed.  There is no smell and as a bagless vac, you
> can't go wrong.  Also, the beater bar is great.  The customer service is
the
> best that I have ever worked with.  They know everything about their
product
> and have the best attitude toward the customer.  Andy
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
> Behalf Of Spiro
> Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 1:22 AM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But...
>
>
> claudia,
> I know you have a household to run and a child. I definitely understand
> the need for speed. But if you can, sometimes take your time to go slowly
> with the Oreck.
> I find that slow even changes the feel of the carpet back to a nice
> fluffier state. Almost that of the Electrolux.
> And, for hardly any money that canister side kick is nice.
> It, haha uses electrolux bags; I swap them.
> I don't really like the blet mechanism of the Oreck. I'd rather a gear
> drive with a slip, and an switch for neutral. The smell of burning belts
> when it eats a sock is nasty. heehee
> BTW stick with the oreck bags, they are a tighter weave than the off brand
> which breathe too much and start to stink (dog hair and dander) before
> they are filled. Then ya have to change the bag and wash the cloth outer
> bag.
> Oh and lastly, watch out for fibers or strings getting between the roller
> and the housing underneath. It will start to make a higher pitched sound,
> and then start to smell of belt as if you ate a sock. But no sock. Taking
> off the roller and unwrapping strings or carpet fibers is the only answer.
> P.I.A. if you ask me.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, 9 Jan 2009, Claudia wrote:
>
> > Thanks Spiro,
> >
> > I appreciate that.
> >
> > You would think that, as much as we pay for these vacuums, they could
make
> them a little less noisy?
> >
> > I have the Oreck Cannister vac too, and I used to hate those things, but
> it also picks up quite well; just can't get the job done as fast.
> >
> >
> > I'm off to take my tired self to sleep, in a few minutes, as I have to
> work in the morning!
> > Claudia
> >
> >  - Original Message -
> >  From: Spiro
> >  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> >  Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 11:46 PM
> >  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But...
> >
> >
> >  what's extreme about headphones that let in all but the first 80db of
> >  sound? Heehee
> >  You're a very sweet woman and I'm sure yur ears are precious to more
than
> >  just the general me.
> >
> >  On Thu, 8 Jan 2009, Claudia wrote:
> >
> >  > Okay Spiro,
> >  >
> >  > I think not.
> >  > LOL!
> >  > That sounds like I'd be taking things way to the extreme, so I'll
just
> deal with the noise, I suppose, but I won't like it!
> >  > Chuckle!
> >  >
> >  > Claudia
> >  >
> >  > - Original Message -
> >  > From: Spiro
> >  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> >  > Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 10:21 PM
> >  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But...
> >  >
> >  >
> >  > do you have a shooting shop near you? Yeah, I mean a gun shop.
> >  > I suggest that you go in, and ask for the cheapest shooting
headphones
> you
> >  > can get. I don't find the Oreck louder than all, a bit louder than
the
> >  > ElectroLux. But when I'm running my router, i am happy happy happy to
> have
> >  > an extra set of
> >  > *noise *cancelling *ear *protection!
> >  > I can't run the router for more than 5 mins without wanting to jump
out
> of
> >  > my skin. I do audio for a living. Also when i was into shooting
sports,
> >  > nothing bigger than a .32 or it would shorten the fun.
> >  > I think that *that will do you better than ear plugs.
> >  > There are even expensive Noise Cancelling Cans that allow a great bit
>