Re: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough?

[Brice]

Is this tool the same as a rotor hammer?  If so, why not just rent one?
- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Rossi" 
To: "Blind Handyman List" 
Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 8:52 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough?


> OK, I know that bigger is typically better.  More power.  rah! Rah!
>
> I am considering purchasing an impact driver.  They seem to come in 800
> inch pound and 1280 inch pound models.  Do I really need 1280 inch pounds?
> What if I want to drive a 2 3/4 TapCon into concrete, can 800 inch pounds
> pull it off?:
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> -- 
> Blue skies.
> Dan Rossi
> Carnegie Mellon University.
> E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
> Tel: (412) 268-9081
>
>
> 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough?

[Bob Kennedy]

Again, when buying any cordless tool, it makes sense to look at the other 
cordless tools from the same company.  Dewalt and Ryobi both use the same 
battery on their entire line.  Makita makes a lot of 18 volt tools but they use 
different styles of batteries and they aren't all interchangeable.  They have 
the pod style which I have in a drill from Makita.  But then they might decide 
to build a line of 18 volt tools that use a slide on style battery.  

Sense we are talking inch pounds of torque, the numbers are big in difference, 
but in operation I don't think it is that great.  The impact driver works just 
like the tire gun you see in the tire shops.  When it starts driving a screw or 
fastener, there is a clutch inside that is set for when it calls for help.  At 
that point it will start impacting and it will bring it or ring it as they say 
down here...  

I use mine for everything because it is smaller and lighter than a full blown 
18 volt drill.  And they make all kinds of attachments with a quarter inch hex 
on it now.  You have to have that if you use the impact driver.

If you are putting in the bolts to cement, any impact gun will do that for you. 
 The only thing to worry about is if it will ring off the head because the hole 
was too small or tight.  
But you'll run into that with a drill too.

I started out with an 18 volt Makita drill and still love it.  Then I got a 
steel on a Dewalt drill and found all the other tools that same set of 
batteries would fit and went a bit crazy collecting afterwards.  But you can 
pick up a tool only and that is the bargain.  A replacement battery is about 
$60 and the lithiums are even more.  Each time you buy a kit from any brand it 
comes with one and usually 2 batteries, the tool, some little extras and a box 
or bag.  I have 4 batteries, but about 7 or 8 tools for them.  

So now that you are really confused, I'll go get some coffee.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman List 
  Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 11:52 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough?


OK, I know that bigger is typically better. More power. rah! Rah!

  I am considering purchasing an impact driver. They seem to come in 800 
  inch pound and 1280 inch pound models. Do I really need 1280 inch pounds? 
  What if I want to drive a 2 3/4 TapCon into concrete, can 800 inch pounds 
  pull it off?:

  Thanks.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] FYI: Cool Wall Paint

[Betsy Whitney]

>Aloha everyone,
I wrote earlier wondering if anyone knew anything 
about this cool-wall paint, and we all kind of 
agreed that it sounded like snake oil. However, 
now that my friend has painted her house with 
this paint, I'm beginning to believe that it 
really does keep things cooler. Surprisingly, 
just touching the outside wall that had the paint 
applied and then touching another area that was 
not painted, I could literally feel that the 
cool-wall painted area was noticeably cooler. She 
also used it on her deck and in the hottest part 
of the day, I didn't wish I had foot covers on. 
Anyway, I send the following item describing the product FYI.
Betsy

>Building News - 2006
>
>Textured Coatings Innovative Coating System Keeps Homes Cooler
>
>For every homeowner who has struggled to find 
>ways to hold down the cost of air conditioning without
>sacrificing comfort, recent tests by the U.S. 
>Department of Energy offer promising results. Recently
>completed tests at the Oak Ridge National 
>Laboratory showed that an innovative exterior coating
>system from Textured Coatings of America Inc. 
>can reduce a typical home’s air-conditioning costs by
>over 20 percent by actually keeping the home’s interior cooler.
>
>The tests conducted for over a year measured the 
>performance of TEX•COTE® SUPER•COTE™
>Cool Wall™ premium coatings. The DOE tests found 
>that not only did the product’s revolutionary heat
>reflective finish significantly reduce exterior 
>wall temperatures, it also dramatically lowered interior
>temperatures on cement block, stucco and 
>wood-frame homes, according to Jay Haines, TCA’s
>president and chief executive officer.
>
>“The DOE tests confirmed that the Cool Wall™ 
>coating reduced exterior wall temperatures by as
>much as 40 degrees Fahrenheit when compared to 
>traditional paints and coatings in many colors,”
>said Haines. “What’s more important is that the 
>test data showed that the Cool Wall coating would
>reduce the interior temperatures as well, and 
>could lower the costs of cooling a typical
>1,100-square-foot ranch-style home by as much as 
>21.9 percent depending on the color chosen,
>substrate type and climatic conditions.”
>
>TEX•COTE® SUPER•COTE™ Cool Wall™ coatings take 
>advantage of the same heat reflective
>technology used by the military to reduce the 
>heat signature of planes and other vehicles, Haines
>explained. Since the increase in reflectivity 
>occurs primarily in the infrared spectrum, it is invisible to
>the naked eye. Yet although the Cool Wall™ 
>colors may look the same as a traditional finish, the DOE
>tests show that, on average, they are up to 100 
>percent more reflective than the conventional
>technologies.
>
>“A dark-colored home absorbs as much as 90 
>percent of the solar radiation that strikes it, and even
>white walls can absorb solar radiation,” Haines 
>noted. “By reflecting this infrared radiation rather than
>absorbing it, the Cool Wall™ coatings 
>dramatically reduce the load on a home’s air-conditioning
>system. And because they are reflective, they 
>are less prone to fading ­ even dark colors stay darker
>longer than conventional paint technologies.”
>
>The most extensive DOE tests were conducted at 
>the Oak Ridge test site in Tennessee, with
>additional tests conducted at actual homes in 
>Jacksonville, Fla., and Phoenix, Ariz.
>
>“Obviously, the savings vary depending on the 
>home’s location, as well as its construction type, its
>orientation to the sun, surrounding shade 
>features and so forth,” said Haines. “But the DOE tests
>confirmed a measurable and significant 
>difference in the energy required to cool the home in all
>instances.”
>
>In addition to energy savings, the tests showed 
>that infrared reflective coatings are significantly more
>fade resistant, even in darker colors, Haines 
>said. The coatings also can reduce stress or “building
>fatigue” by minimizing the expansion and 
>contraction of the home’s exterior that occurs during
>extreme fluctuations in temperature. The 
>reflective coatings can also reduce the “heat island” effect
>that causes excessive energy consumption in urban areas.
>
>TEX•COTE® SUPER•COTE™ coatings are 10 times 
>thicker on average than ordinary paint, and can
>withstand an average of 40 years of exterior 
>exposure. After being professionally applied, the product
>is warranted for as long as the homeowner owns the home.
>
>“The SUPER•COTE™ finish can last for decades 
>without flaking, peeling, or chipping,” said Haines.
>“The multi-step process to apply the finish 
>virtually eliminates the need for scraping, sanding, painting
>and repainting, saving homeowners thousands of 
>dollars in maintenance expense over the life of the
>home ­ not to mention countless hours of hard work.”
>
>TEX•COTE® SUPER•COTE™ coatings also fight mildew 
>and algae while dramatically reducing
>exterior maintenance. They can be applied to 
>virtually any type of surface including stucco, wood,
>masonry and fi

[BlindHandyMan] Update on projects.

[Dale Leavens]

Well, yesterday was the second day in a row with no rain so the patio was dry. 
I put a couple of finishing touches to it, a couple of bricks to cut and fit 
where things weren't perfectly square. Janet and I then began sweeping the 
polymerized sand into the cracks. I used 2 by 4s to divide the patio into 
manageable sections, usually 8 by 15 inch chunks more or less, two bags about 
per section. Once swept back and forth and back and forth I would set up 
another pair of boards to move over and then dump two more bags and leave Janet 
to get on with that while I shook the previously done section down with my 
packer. Then another brush over to top up the seams until we covered the nearly 
50 feet. One final brush over and another packing of the entire patio. This is 
difficult because of the size, I used a bamboo stick like a cane to help orient 
my distance from house walls and patio edge and the like.

I just got well tucked into sweeping off any residue so it doesn't stick and 
dirty the bricks when a sudden, and I mean sudden snow flurry struck just 
around 8:30 last night. I couldn't keep ahead of it with my big shop vac and 
had to give in. There has been an inch and a bit of wet snow over everything 
all night. There shouldn't be much of that sticky sand on the bricks but I 
won't know until the snow is gone and it is a bugger to get off. I shovel the 
patio off over the winter so perhaps the scraper will clean it up before 
spring. All I needed was another hour or less!

The snow should be gone by tomorrow so I should be able to pick up the junk I 
left on the lawn then. I hope to lay a bit more retaining wall before the final 
snow arrives for the season but it is cold and wet now so might not get all 
that done. Usually permanent snow arrives to stay around Remembrance day, 
November 11. We don't get much useable weather though from now on and some of 
that is needed to remove leaves and other garden clean-up.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Update on projects.

[Betsy Whitney]

Aloha Dale,
Everytime I read the posts about your and Dan's project updates, I 
have sore muscles for at least a week, grin...

Hearing about snow is astonishing to me as we have had about ten days 
of the hottest, most humid weather we had in months. I am wondering 
if there are signs of whether you're likely to have a very cold or 
mild Winter like there are in such places as Reno, Navada, where my 
parents live. Mom tells me that they can tell if the Winter is going 
to be severe by the thickness of the horses coats and there is a 
flower that wilts in early September if it is going to be particularly cold.

It doesn't get that cold here, but I do notice a thickening of our 
cats coat if we are about to have a long and chilly Winter.
Just wondering,
Betsy


At 03:40 AM 10/11/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>Well, yesterday was the second day in a row with no rain so the 
>patio was dry. I put a couple of finishing touches to it, a couple 
>of bricks to cut and fit where things weren't perfectly square. 
>Janet and I then began sweeping the polymerized sand into the 
>cracks. I used 2 by 4s to divide the patio into manageable sections, 
>usually 8 by 15 inch chunks more or less, two bags about per 
>section. Once swept back and forth and back and forth I would set up 
>another pair of boards to move over and then dump two more bags and 
>leave Janet to get on with that while I shook the previously done 
>section down with my packer. Then another brush over to top up the 
>seams until we covered the nearly 50 feet. One final brush over and 
>another packing of the entire patio. This is difficult because of 
>the size, I used a bamboo stick like a cane to help orient my 
>distance from house walls and patio edge and the like.
>
>I just got well tucked into sweeping off any residue so it doesn't 
>stick and dirty the bricks when a sudden, and I mean sudden snow 
>flurry struck just around 8:30 last night. I couldn't keep ahead of 
>it with my big shop vac and had to give in. There has been an inch 
>and a bit of wet snow over everything all night. There shouldn't be 
>much of that sticky sand on the bricks but I won't know until the 
>snow is gone and it is a bugger to get off. I shovel the patio off 
>over the winter so perhaps the scraper will clean it up before 
>spring. All I needed was another hour or less!
>
>The snow should be gone by tomorrow so I should be able to pick up 
>the junk I left on the lawn then. I hope to lay a bit more retaining 
>wall before the final snow arrives for the season but it is cold and 
>wet now so might not get all that done. Usually permanent snow 
>arrives to stay around Remembrance day, November 11. We don't get 
>much useable weather though from now on and some of that is needed 
>to remove leaves and other garden clean-up.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit

[john schwery]

A week ago Friday night, I was routing with a big, round over 
bit.  For some reason, I reached my reading finger on my left hand 
into the middle of the router base.  I read the top corner of the bit 
and it said, dot dot dot, very fast.  It was the sharpest Braille I 
have ever seen.  My finger is healing nicely but still has a little ways to go.


John

RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

[Edward Przybylek]

Hi Dale,

 

Thanks for the information.  I never did, and probably never will,
understand this horsepower rating stuff.  I once owned a table saw that was
rated at 2 horsepower and it constantly bogged down trying to cut heavier
pieces of wood.  At some point, I inherited a saw with a 1.5 horsepower
motor and it never stalled no matter what I put through it.  Both were belt
drives with 10 inch blades.  I never could figure out why a 2 horsepower
motor would bog down cutting a piece of wood that wouldn't make a 1.5
horsepower motor even break a sweat.  Years ago, my company decided that all
non-electrical engineers (software, mechanical, optical, etc) needed a basic
understanding of electricity and electrical concepts.  They put all of us
through six weeks of training using an extensive collection of video
recorded classes.  Many things made a great deal of sense after the class
but, after not using most of the information for years, most of what I
learned has faded into oblivion.  Maybe it's time to haul out my recordings
of the classes again and take a refresher course.  But, being electron and
proton challenged, I'm sure I'll be writing the list with all manner of
electrical related questions.  And yeah, before some smart ass on the list
points it out, I do know that there are such things as neutrons.

Take care,

Ed Przybylek

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 5:32 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

 

  

I don't know really how you would do that without very specialized equipment
but it really doesn't matter much so long as it performs to your
requirements. There quite probably is a measure which can be said to produce
a horsepower of that rating at least briefly and the manufacturer could
probably produce that proof or definition but for practical purposes a horse
and a half is about all you can get out of a 110 volt 15 amp circuit. My
Delta 18 inch drum sander and my compressor will both trip a 15 amp breaker.
The sander is rated at 1.5 HP but I have to watch not to feed it too fast
and allow it to bog down. I always knew that my compressor over rated it's
horsepower but it too will trip it's own 15 amp breaker I believe on
start-up. Not all of the time, I often forget to turn it off and it will
cycle for a couple of days then apparently get fed-up and shut itself off
for me.

I suppose that ideally one would power a treadmill with foot power. I don't
much like treadmills for that reason and really they should only need to
produce enough power to move the belt along. Big powerful motors really only
exercise the power company turbines.

The article I read on Wikipedia on horsepower indicated that a human can
produce the 550 foot pounds only very briefly. a 3 horsepower treadmill
presumably can do 1650 foot pounds indefinitely. What for?

- Original Message - 
From: Edward Przybylek 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com   
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 8:47 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

Hi Dale,

Pretty much, what you said is what I thought but I figured it wouldn't hurt
to ask. How would I verify the horsepower of the motor? Both the manual
and the label on the side of the motor claim it's 3.5 HP. My knowledge of
electricity and motors is almost 0. Any information is greatly appreciated.

Take care,

Ed Przybylek

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 6:02 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

Well, it isn't the end of the world to trip a breaker so I wouldn't worry
about it too much. I can however pretty well guarantee that motor isn't
anything near 3.5 hp. regardless what they rate it at or tell you. Why would
it have to be anyway, one horsepower is 550 foot pounds per second. Unless
you are running an elephant or you have quite spectacular foot pounds you
won't be taxing a motor anything like that hard.

- Original Message - 
From: Edward Przybylek 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 3:11 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

Hi all,

I've been following this thread with much interest because we just purchased
a new treadmill. The unit has a 3.5 horsepower motor, is capable of a 12%
incline and has a top speed of 10 MPH. This discussion thread has concerned
itself with motors 2.5 HP and lower and whether there needs to be a concern
about breaker ratings. Given that this unit has a motor with 3.5 HP, are
there concerns I should be addressing? We use the trea

RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

[Edward Przybylek]

Hi Michael,

 

I'm sure your correct about so many of these ratings being marketing ploys
for people who know little about a given subject.  I've always been a firm
believer of the bigger is better concept (the Tim Taylor syndrome).  I've
gotten better over the years, though.  Limited money and too many things out
there I'd like to own have influenced me a great deal over the last several
years.  The only reason we bought the better, higher powered, treadmill is
because it was on clearance and actually cost $200 less than the model below
it.  It has a few nicer features than the lower model but I'm sure we would
have done without them before we would have paid the extra $200 for them.
This list is great for filling in one's knowledge gaps and I'm sure I'll be
back with many more basic level electrical questions.  Thanks.

 

Take care,

Ed Przybylek

 

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Michael baldwin
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 11:24 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

 

  

I would almost guess that the peak hp of that motor is 3.5, but the
continuous hp is around 1.5- 2.0.
Which basically means, that if all the right conditions existed, that motor
could put out 3.5 hp. Which, connected to a 20 amp 120 volt outlet won't
happen. Convert it to 240 volt, and then it won't be a problem.
It is a marketing ploy that a lot of treadmill manufactures use, they give
you the peak hp of the motor.

i have seen some treadmill motors now use PWM (pulse Width modulation),
which means nothing to me, so I don't know how this effects HP of an
electric motor. Or some electric motors actually run on D/C, and not A/C,
again, I have no clue how that will effect HP of the motor, I know it makes
the motor more energy efficient.

To make things even more confusing, some treadmill manufactures rate their
motor HP at the final drive, after all gear ratios and such. It is hard to
compare them apples to apples. 

Michael

_ 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ]
On Behalf Of Edward Przybylek
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 7:48 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

Hi Dale,

Pretty much, what you said is what I thought but I figured it wouldn't hurt
to ask. How would I verify the horsepower of the motor? Both the manual
and the label on the side of the motor claim it's 3.5 HP. My knowledge of
electricity and motors is almost 0. Any information is greatly appreciated.

Take care,

Ed Przybylek

From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 6:02 PM
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

Well, it isn't the end of the world to trip a breaker so I wouldn't worry
about it too much. I can however pretty well guarantee that motor isn't
anything near 3.5 hp. regardless what they rate it at or tell you. Why would
it have to be anyway, one horsepower is 550 foot pounds per second. Unless
you are running an elephant or you have quite spectacular foot pounds you
won't be taxing a motor anything like that hard.

- Original Message - 
From: Edward Przybylek 
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 3:11 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

Hi all,

I've been following this thread with much interest because we just purchased
a new treadmill. The unit has a 3.5 horsepower motor, is capable of a 12%
incline and has a top speed of 10 MPH. This discussion thread has concerned
itself with motors 2.5 HP and lower and whether there needs to be a concern
about breaker ratings. Given that this unit has a motor with 3.5 HP, are
there concerns I should be addressing? We use the treadmill for power
walking and I'm quite sure it will never see speeds much over 5 or 6 MPH.
We've had the incline up to 8 percent and I'm sure we'll have it up to the
12% maximum before too long. We haven't popped a breaker yet but I just
want to be sure that there isn't something I should be doing just as a
precaution. Thanks.

Take care,

Ed Przybylek

From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com
 ]
On Behalf Of Tom Fowle
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 1:43 PM
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com

Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

[Dale Leavens]

Well, in the end that is the important thing. The things we accumulate should 
do what we want them to do reliably and conveniently for the price we are 
willing to pay.

It is sometimes difficult for me to remember that the only purpose a 
manufacturer has is to move as much money from my pocket to theirs as they can 
as quickly and efficiently as they can. Your treadmill was not built and sold 
with your health in mind. That holds for every stage along the way from the 
shipper to the retailer.

If a horsepower rating clinches a sale for some then that is what they will 
give.

Like Dan's dilemma over an impact driver, the precise rating is less important 
than enough power to perform the work he needs or wants to perform. Twisting 
the heads off of bolts is not the goal.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:28 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question


Hi Michael,

  I'm sure your correct about so many of these ratings being marketing ploys
  for people who know little about a given subject. I've always been a firm
  believer of the bigger is better concept (the Tim Taylor syndrome). I've
  gotten better over the years, though. Limited money and too many things out
  there I'd like to own have influenced me a great deal over the last several
  years. The only reason we bought the better, higher powered, treadmill is
  because it was on clearance and actually cost $200 less than the model below
  it. It has a few nicer features than the lower model but I'm sure we would
  have done without them before we would have paid the extra $200 for them.
  This list is great for filling in one's knowledge gaps and I'm sure I'll be
  back with many more basic level electrical questions. Thanks.

  Take care,

  Ed Przybylek

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Michael baldwin
  Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 11:24 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

  I would almost guess that the peak hp of that motor is 3.5, but the
  continuous hp is around 1.5- 2.0.
  Which basically means, that if all the right conditions existed, that motor
  could put out 3.5 hp. Which, connected to a 20 amp 120 volt outlet won't
  happen. Convert it to 240 volt, and then it won't be a problem.
  It is a marketing ploy that a lot of treadmill manufactures use, they give
  you the peak hp of the motor.

  i have seen some treadmill motors now use PWM (pulse Width modulation),
  which means nothing to me, so I don't know how this effects HP of an
  electric motor. Or some electric motors actually run on D/C, and not A/C,
  again, I have no clue how that will effect HP of the motor, I know it makes
  the motor more energy efficient.

  To make things even more confusing, some treadmill manufactures rate their
  motor HP at the final drive, after all gear ratios and such. It is hard to
  compare them apples to apples. 

  Michael

  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]
  On Behalf Of Edward Przybylek
  Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 7:48 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

  Hi Dale,

  Pretty much, what you said is what I thought but I figured it wouldn't hurt
  to ask. How would I verify the horsepower of the motor? Both the manual
  and the label on the side of the motor claim it's 3.5 HP. My knowledge of
  electricity and motors is almost 0. Any information is greatly appreciated.

  Take care,

  Ed Przybylek

  From: blindhandyman@ 
  yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
   yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 6:02 PM
  To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

  Well, it isn't the end of the world to trip a breaker so I wouldn't worry
  about it too much. I can however pretty well guarantee that motor isn't
  anything near 3.5 hp. regardless what they rate it at or tell you. Why would
  it have to be anyway, one horsepower is 550 foot pounds per second. Unless
  you are running an elephant or you have quite spectacular foot pounds you
  won't be taxing a motor anything like that hard.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
   
  Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 3:11 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

  Hi all,

  I've been following this thread with much interest because we just purchased
  a new treadmi

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Update on projects.

[Dale Leavens]

Hi Betsy,

This has been a most unusual summer. Rain and cool until September really with 
the exception of a day or two most weeks. The gardens didn't do well although 
my roses have really taken off since the end of September, there just wasn't 
enough sustained heat. September was remarkably good, I laid a lot of stone and 
had a lot laid for me. Since the last couple of days in September though we 
keep getting fine drizzle and cold conditions though not much below normal 
average temperatures, the wet though is interfering.

There are a lot of folk legends about predicting the severity of winter, the 
depth of snow and so on, I don't believe much of it. Certain wasps or bees are 
said to build their nests higher when deep snow is expected, I rather doubt 
that, seems to me they would want the insulation of the snow to help the hives 
survive. Certainly the animals put on heavier coats most of them in the winter 
but they do that every winter.

There have been a lot of geese in the air but they are all gone now, or at 
least I haven't heard them going over for the past two weeks and I don't hear 
the hunters out. Moose season opened in this area yesterday so the roads are 
full of hunters and trailers.

Black bears are quite a nuisance this year but that probably has more to do 
with a late berry season and since canceling the spring bear hunt their number 
is increasing so they get bolder looking for food.

Getting snow cover this time of year is not all that unusual, maybe just a 
little early but I have often frozen fingers planting fall bulbs because the 
nurseries won't send them out that couple of weeks early.

Janet and I figure the useful outdoor season for us ends just about now, 
Canadian Thanks Giving and doesn't really begin again before the first week in 
May. I am thinking next year when I retire I'll close off the water and drain 
the pipes for about the first of November and go find somewhere in the sun to 
spend the time until May. Usually once we hit the first week in May things just 
explode and you need to be here to keep on top of the vegetation. Besides, I 
won't have all my work done before next winter. Some time after that I hope to 
unload this old shack for a reasonable amount of money to be able to relocate.

Don't know if that answered any of your questions directly but I hope so.

We had some friends come along with a utility trailer on Thursday to remove 
loads of accumulated detritus of the building projects around here. Friday 
night while waiting for the patio to dry thoroughly Janet and I move a few of 
the left over bricks onto a pallet in the lane just to have in case repairs are 
needed. Next decent weather I guess I'll have to cut back those roses for the 
winter and chip all that debris. Usually I also work about 30 bags of composted 
manure into the flower beds particularly to have it present for the bulbs when 
they emerge in the spring. The roses and other gardens can wait for the spring, 
maybe I'll just buy enough for the front and the lily gardens, maybe I can get 
Janet to do that some dry day even if I am at work. Doing it all is something I 
should help her with as the bags get pretty heavy really fast. The gardening 
got a little ahead of me this year with all the extra work but I am getting to 
look like an aging miniature Adonis .


  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:01 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Update on projects.


Aloha Dale,
  Everytime I read the posts about your and Dan's project updates, I 
  have sore muscles for at least a week, grin...

  Hearing about snow is astonishing to me as we have had about ten days 
  of the hottest, most humid weather we had in months. I am wondering 
  if there are signs of whether you're likely to have a very cold or 
  mild Winter like there are in such places as Reno, Navada, where my 
  parents live. Mom tells me that they can tell if the Winter is going 
  to be severe by the thickness of the horses coats and there is a 
  flower that wilts in early September if it is going to be particularly cold.

  It doesn't get that cold here, but I do notice a thickening of our 
  cats coat if we are about to have a long and chilly Winter.
  Just wondering,
  Betsy

  At 03:40 AM 10/11/2009, you wrote:
  >
  >
  >Well, yesterday was the second day in a row with no rain so the 
  >patio was dry. I put a couple of finishing touches to it, a couple 
  >of bricks to cut and fit where things weren't perfectly square. 
  >Janet and I then began sweeping the polymerized sand into the 
  >cracks. I used 2 by 4s to divide the patio into manageable sections, 
  >usually 8 by 15 inch chunks more or less, two bags about per 
  >section. Once swept back and forth and back and forth I would set up 
  >another pair of boards to move over and then dump two more bags and 
  >leave Janet to get on with that while I shook the previously

Re: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough?

[Dan Rossi]

Bob,

I think this answers my question.  I have a Bosch driver that I like very 
much.  I was looking at the Bosch impact driver specifically because I 
could exchange batts between the regular driver and the impact driver, but 
only if I got the smaller 800 inch pound impact driver and not the larger 
one.  So, I just wanted to make sure that the 800 inch pounds was going to 
do what I need it it to do.  I think it will.

Thanks.


-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel:(412) 268-9081

Re: [BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit

[Bob Kennedy]

You know your mother said not to play with dangerous tools...

I've not done that with a router, but I have with a chain saw.  Actually 
someone else was working the saw and his cutting and my looking got together.  
I don't know how your moment went but I swore I could count the links on the 
chain as they were chewing on my finger.  Seems like time stands still for just 
a couple seconds.  Then the pain hits and there is no more amazement.  

Keep your finger clean and wrap it well so banging and bumping has a minimal 
affect on the pain.


  - Original Message - 
  From: john schwery 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:11 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit


A week ago Friday night, I was routing with a big, round over 
  bit. For some reason, I reached my reading finger on my left hand 
  into the middle of the router base. I read the top corner of the bit 
  and it said, dot dot dot, very fast. It was the sharpest Braille I 
  have ever seen. My finger is healing nicely but still has a little ways to go.

  John



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

[Bob Kennedy]

Well Ed, the reason you have trouble with horse power and all is because it is 
really apples and oranges.  Basically if you keep track of the amps the motor 
says it draws,you'll see the more amps the more power.  That's really as close 
as you can get to having something make sense.A 12 amp motor won't have the 
power of a 15 amp motor and so on.  

That is unless the gear ratio is different in the lower amp motor...  See how 
silly this can get in a hurry?


  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:17 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question


Hi Dale,

  Thanks for the information. I never did, and probably never will,
  understand this horsepower rating stuff. I once owned a table saw that was
  rated at 2 horsepower and it constantly bogged down trying to cut heavier
  pieces of wood. At some point, I inherited a saw with a 1.5 horsepower
  motor and it never stalled no matter what I put through it. Both were belt
  drives with 10 inch blades. I never could figure out why a 2 horsepower
  motor would bog down cutting a piece of wood that wouldn't make a 1.5
  horsepower motor even break a sweat. Years ago, my company decided that all
  non-electrical engineers (software, mechanical, optical, etc) needed a basic
  understanding of electricity and electrical concepts. They put all of us
  through six weeks of training using an extensive collection of video
  recorded classes. Many things made a great deal of sense after the class
  but, after not using most of the information for years, most of what I
  learned has faded into oblivion. Maybe it's time to haul out my recordings
  of the classes again and take a refresher course. But, being electron and
  proton challenged, I'm sure I'll be writing the list with all manner of
  electrical related questions. And yeah, before some smart ass on the list
  points it out, I do know that there are such things as neutrons.

  Take care,

  Ed Przybylek

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 5:32 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

  I don't know really how you would do that without very specialized equipment
  but it really doesn't matter much so long as it performs to your
  requirements. There quite probably is a measure which can be said to produce
  a horsepower of that rating at least briefly and the manufacturer could
  probably produce that proof or definition but for practical purposes a horse
  and a half is about all you can get out of a 110 volt 15 amp circuit. My
  Delta 18 inch drum sander and my compressor will both trip a 15 amp breaker.
  The sander is rated at 1.5 HP but I have to watch not to feed it too fast
  and allow it to bog down. I always knew that my compressor over rated it's
  horsepower but it too will trip it's own 15 amp breaker I believe on
  start-up. Not all of the time, I often forget to turn it off and it will
  cycle for a couple of days then apparently get fed-up and shut itself off
  for me.

  I suppose that ideally one would power a treadmill with foot power. I don't
  much like treadmills for that reason and really they should only need to
  produce enough power to move the belt along. Big powerful motors really only
  exercise the power company turbines.

  The article I read on Wikipedia on horsepower indicated that a human can
  produce the 550 foot pounds only very briefly. a 3 horsepower treadmill
  presumably can do 1650 foot pounds indefinitely. What for?

  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 8:47 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

  Hi Dale,

  Pretty much, what you said is what I thought but I figured it wouldn't hurt
  to ask. How would I verify the horsepower of the motor? Both the manual
  and the label on the side of the motor claim it's 3.5 HP. My knowledge of
  electricity and motors is almost 0. Any information is greatly appreciated.

  Take care,

  Ed Przybylek

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]
  On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 6:02 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com  
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

  Well, it isn't the end of the world to trip a breaker so I wouldn't worry
  about it too much. I can however pretty well guarantee that motor isn't
  anything near 3.5 hp. regardless what they rate it at or tell you. Why would
  it have to be anyway, one horsepower is 550 foot pounds per second. Unless
  you are running an elephant or you have quite spe

Re: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough?

[Bob Kennedy]

As far as I'm concerned, if it says Bosch on it, it's a good tool.  

My Dewalt says 1150 inch pounds I think.  Do I need that much?  Never have.  I 
took a tire off with it the first weekend I had it.  But That is abuse 
normally.  I have 3 half inch impact guns for tires and I can snap a lug bolt 
with any one of them...  So for what you will be doing, you'll be fine.  Worst 
case is you'll take 2 seconds longer to drive a screw home.  But at least your 
arm won't fall asleep from the weight of the tool!


  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 12:45 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How much is enough?


Bob,

  I think this answers my question. I have a Bosch driver that I like very 
  much. I was looking at the Bosch impact driver specifically because I 
  could exchange batts between the regular driver and the impact driver, but 
  only if I got the smaller 800 inch pound impact driver and not the larger 
  one. So, I just wanted to make sure that the 800 inch pounds was going to 
  do what I need it it to do. I think it will.

  Thanks.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question

[jim]

hey bob don't forget adding in pully sizes too.
jim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] FYI: Cool Wall Paint

[Ray Boyce]

Aloha Betsy

A good bit of research here,  sounds like everyone should be painting  their
homes with this Paint.

Thanks

Ray 

  

 

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney
Sent: Monday, 12 October 2009 12:38 AM
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] FYI: Cool Wall Paint

 

  


>Aloha everyone,
I wrote earlier wondering if anyone knew anything 
about this cool-wall paint, and we all kind of 
agreed that it sounded like snake oil. However, 
now that my friend has painted her house with 
this paint, I'm beginning to believe that it 
really does keep things cooler. Surprisingly, 
just touching the outside wall that had the paint 
applied and then touching another area that was 
not painted, I could literally feel that the 
cool-wall painted area was noticeably cooler. She 
also used it on her deck and in the hottest part 
of the day, I didn't wish I had foot covers on. 
Anyway, I send the following item describing the product FYI.
Betsy

>Building News - 2006
>
>Textured Coatings Innovative Coating System Keeps Homes Cooler
>
>For every homeowner who has struggled to find 
>ways to hold down the cost of air conditioning without
>sacrificing comfort, recent tests by the U.S. 
>Department of Energy offer promising results. Recently
>completed tests at the Oak Ridge National 
>Laboratory showed that an innovative exterior coating
>system from Textured Coatings of America Inc. 
>can reduce a typical home's air-conditioning costs by
>over 20 percent by actually keeping the home's interior cooler.
>
>The tests conducted for over a year measured the 
>performance of TEX.COTER SUPER.COTET
>Cool WallT premium coatings. The DOE tests found 
>that not only did the product's revolutionary heat
>reflective finish significantly reduce exterior 
>wall temperatures, it also dramatically lowered interior
>temperatures on cement block, stucco and 
>wood-frame homes, according to Jay Haines, TCA's
>president and chief executive officer.
>
>"The DOE tests confirmed that the Cool WallT 
>coating reduced exterior wall temperatures by as
>much as 40 degrees Fahrenheit when compared to 
>traditional paints and coatings in many colors,"
>said Haines. "What's more important is that the 
>test data showed that the Cool Wall coating would
>reduce the interior temperatures as well, and 
>could lower the costs of cooling a typical
>1,100-square-foot ranch-style home by as much as 
>21.9 percent depending on the color chosen,
>substrate type and climatic conditions."
>
>TEX.COTER SUPER.COTET Cool WallT coatings take 
>advantage of the same heat reflective
>technology used by the military to reduce the 
>heat signature of planes and other vehicles, Haines
>explained. Since the increase in reflectivity 
>occurs primarily in the infrared spectrum, it is invisible to
>the naked eye. Yet although the Cool WallT 
>colors may look the same as a traditional finish, the DOE
>tests show that, on average, they are up to 100 
>percent more reflective than the conventional
>technologies.
>
>"A dark-colored home absorbs as much as 90 
>percent of the solar radiation that strikes it, and even
>white walls can absorb solar radiation," Haines 
>noted. "By reflecting this infrared radiation rather than
>absorbing it, the Cool WallT coatings 
>dramatically reduce the load on a home's air-conditioning
>system. And because they are reflective, they 
>are less prone to fading - even dark colors stay darker
>longer than conventional paint technologies."
>
>The most extensive DOE tests were conducted at 
>the Oak Ridge test site in Tennessee, with
>additional tests conducted at actual homes in 
>Jacksonville, Fla., and Phoenix, Ariz.
>
>"Obviously, the savings vary depending on the 
>home's location, as well as its construction type, its
>orientation to the sun, surrounding shade 
>features and so forth," said Haines. "But the DOE tests
>confirmed a measurable and significant 
>difference in the energy required to cool the home in all
>instances."
>
>In addition to energy savings, the tests showed 
>that infrared reflective coatings are significantly more
>fade resistant, even in darker colors, Haines 
>said. The coatings also can reduce stress or "building
>fatigue" by minimizing the expansion and 
>contraction of the home's exterior that occurs during
>extreme fluctuations in temperature. The 
>reflective coatings can also reduce the "heat island" effect
>that causes excessive energy consumption in urban areas.
>
>TEX.COTER SUPER.COTET coatings are 10 times 
>thicker on average than ordinary paint, and can
>withstand an average of 40 years of exterior 
>exposure. After being professionally applied, the product
>is warranted for as long as the homeowner owns the home.
>
>"The SUPER.COTET finish can last for decades 
>without flaking, peeling, or chipping," said Haines.
>"The multi-step process to apply the finish 
>virtually eliminates the need for scraping, sanding, paintin

Re: [BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit

[john schwery]

Bob, the bit spun too fast for me to count the dots.  My finger is 
healed to the point that I can leave it open to the air.

earlier, Bob Kennedy, wrote:
>
>
>You know your mother said not to play with dangerous tools...
>
>I've not done that with a router, but I have with a chain saw. 
>Actually someone else was working the saw and his cutting and my 
>looking got together. I don't know how your moment went but I swore 
>I could count the links on the chain as they were chewing on my 
>finger. Seems like time stands still for just a couple seconds. Then 
>the pain hits and there is no more amazement.
>
>Keep your finger clean and wrap it well so banging and bumping has a 
>minimal affect on the pain.
>
>- Original Message -
>From: john schwery
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:11 AM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit
>
>A week ago Friday night, I was routing with a big, round over
>bit. For some reason, I reached my reading finger on my left hand
>into the middle of the router base. I read the top corner of the bit
>and it said, dot dot dot, very fast. It was the sharpest Braille I
>have ever seen. My finger is healing nicely but still has a little ways to go.
>
>John
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

John


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] conclusion to garage door opener problem

[Matt]

Ok, I had a friend come over to mess with the garagedoor.
He messed with it yesterday and couldn't figure it out.
So he went and bought new sensors, and we replaced a battery in an opener 
because I think it was about dead.
Then while he was gone to watch the game, I went up in the attick to look at 
the wires which were coming through a hole in the ceiling to the unit, because 
there's one down on the unit which is just hanging there, but I can't see any 
place it might hook up.
I found the wires, and lost my wife's broom which I was using as a sort of 
swing-around cane as I crawled across the joists.  I couldn't find any loose 
wires or anything which might hook to that loose one down below.
But my friend came back and he started taking the sensor off the wall, to put 
on the new ones, and he said, I just wonder if maybe the conection was just 
loose.
So he messed with it for a while, and turns out, that was the only problem.
I get to keep the old sensors for now and they work for now.
Yay!
And it just dawned on me that I probably need to change out of these clothes as 
they are probably covered with insolation.

Matt

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door.

[Spiro]

yeah worry about the door as if it has any concern. No not the guy with 
the blood coming out.
Okaay, just wait till that oopsie breaks a nail against my precious 
(whatever it is material goods) haha.
Oh well, dudn't matter.





On Fri, 9 Oct 2009, wstep...@everestkc.net wrote:

> What is it about women, wives in particular.  I mean, here you are, trying to 
> do your level best, and while doing that, you do injury to yourself which 
> causes your life's blood to drip or flow out of your wound.  Instead of 
> offerring kindness, sympathy, and aid, the wife is primarily concerned with 
> something so superficial as a little bloodstain.
> And, speaking of new, we're having a new furnace and airconditioning unit 
> installed today.  It's been a very painful process financially, and once 
> again, I've learned how arbitrary and capricious government and government 
> regulated utilities can be in terms of defining what does and does not 
> qualify for a tax or other credit.
>
>
> Bill Stephan
> Kansas Citty MO
> Email: wstep...@everestkc.net
> Phone: (816)803-2469
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Dan Rossi 
> Date: Friday, October 9, 2009 1:48 pm
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door.
>> Maybe you call it a screen door, or storm door, whatever, but I
>> have a new
>> one.  Almost.
>>
>> Our house used to have one of those crappy sheet Aluminum storm
>> doors
>> with zero insulation value, noisy when you open and close it, and
>> a stupid
>> heavy glass window that you had to take out each summer, store it
>> somewhere, and put it back in the winter.
>>
>> Well, I decided to upgrade.  I got one of the doors where you just
>> pull
>> the upper window down and it pulls a rolled up screen down in it's
>> place.
>> It's got double panes, insulated frame, rubber magnetic seals and
>> dual
>> closers.
>>
>> Of course, I got the wrong size door, so what I hoped to be a
>> quick and
>> simple project turned out to take a little longer.  I tried so
>> hard to
>> understand exactly what with of door I had, and what I needed to
>> ask for.
>> i still got it wrong.  My door is wider and taller than the
>> standards so
>> had to get a custom door.  I measured from brick mould to brick
>> mould, but
>> my mistake was that my old door sat inside the brick mould
>> attached to a
>> secondary frame.  The new door, well the flange instead of sitting
>> inside
>> the brick mould, wrapped around the front of the brick mould.
>>
>> At first I didn't think that was an issue, but since the moulding
>> was
>> beveled, the screws were going through the edge and not holding.
>> So, I
>> ripped the old brick mould off, and installed a square frame
>> rather than
>> the decorative beveled moulding.  Getting the old stuff off was a
>> lot of
>> work.  I don't know what kind of nails they used 80 years ago, but
>> I swear
>> they must have been barbed.  I also don't know what they used for
>> calking,
>> it was hard as rock, and was not in any hurry to leave the bricks.
>>
>> The big adventures here were that I drew blood a couple of times.
>> You had
>> to drill pilot holes in the edge of the door for the hinges.  The
>> edge is
>> metal clad.  I had the door laying flat on a couple of saw horses
>> and was
>> drilling into the edge.  My hand was above the drill on the door,
>> helping
>> to keep it straight.  The 1/8 inch bit snapped, the drill rammed
>> forward
>> and up, and the broken spinning bit ran across the underside of my
>> fingers.  No major damage, and I kept working, but Teresa
>> eventually came
>> out and was a bit annoyed at all the blood on the new door.
>>
>> I also nicked myself with a regular old hand saw.  I was being
>> stupid and
>> trying to hurry, I just wanted to rough cut the end off one of the
>> framing
>> members.  I was holding the stick of wood in one hand and the saw
>> in the
>> other.  I got mostly through the wood when it snapped off.  It
>> left just a
>> little spike of wood sticking out the corner and I tried to just
>> rip it
>> off with one stroke, but the saw snagged, the stick rolled, and I
>> caught
>> the edge of my finger on the saw.  Again, no major damage but more
>> blood
>> to be cleaned up.
>>
>> The door is in, is pretty straight, opens and closes, but I still
>> need to
>> put the closers on.
>>
>> One more task down, 77 to go.
>>
>>  --
>> Blue skies.
>> Dan Rossi
>> Carnegie Mellon University.
>> E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
>> Tel: (412) 268-9081
>>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door.

[Spiro]

and which one of us didn't start somewhere in the plaster and lathe wall 
expecting to cut out for a new outlet, by hand, and find that the wiggling 
lathe made a really big hole while the wood was barely cut.
First time I was 18 and had to use a piece of paneling. The second time I 
was luckier, as hahahaha they make wall plates for dummies like me who 
find the plaster likes to run.





On Fri, 9 Oct 2009, Scott Howell wrote:

> Huh, well don't feel bad, I've done many stupid things such as that. I
> even once thought I could cut a piece of PVC pipe with an electric
> reciprocating saw. Needless to say the ability to drive a saw with one
> hand while holding a round pipe in the other can only end in disaster
> and that is exactly what happen. I ended up with the saw skating over
> the surface of the pipe and across my knuckles. Yeah and should I add
> that I'm such a genius that this was the same day I was installing two
> new sump pumps and after cutting out the pipe for the old one, I went
> to remove it, but neglected to unplug it first. So, for good measure I
> accidentally activated the pump and covered myself and the general
> area with dirty, nasty sump pit water. Yeah, I'm good aren't I? Give
> me time, I'm sure there are a number of really bright things I have
> done.
> So, hey, your doing just fine and keep up the good work. Oh and when
> your done, I got a few projects down here if you lack for something to
> do. grin.
> On Oct 9, 2009, at 2:48 PM, Dan Rossi wrote:
>
>> Maybe you call it a screen door, or storm door, whatever, but I have
>> a new
>> one. Almost.
>>
>> Our house used to have one of those crappy sheet Aluminum storm doors
>> with zero insulation value, noisy when you open and close it, and a
>> stupid
>> heavy glass window that you had to take out each summer, store it
>> somewhere, and put it back in the winter.
>>
>> Well, I decided to upgrade. I got one of the doors where you just pull
>> the upper window down and it pulls a rolled up screen down in it's
>> place.
>> It's got double panes, insulated frame, rubber magnetic seals and dual
>> closers.
>>
>> Of course, I got the wrong size door, so what I hoped to be a quick
>> and
>> simple project turned out to take a little longer. I tried so hard to
>> understand exactly what with of door I had, and what I needed to ask
>> for.
>> i still got it wrong. My door is wider and taller than the standards
>> so
>> had to get a custom door. I measured from brick mould to brick
>> mould, but
>> my mistake was that my old door sat inside the brick mould attached
>> to a
>> secondary frame. The new door, well the flange instead of sitting
>> inside
>> the brick mould, wrapped around the front of the brick mould.
>>
>> At first I didn't think that was an issue, but since the moulding was
>> beveled, the screws were going through the edge and not holding. So, I
>> ripped the old brick mould off, and installed a square frame rather
>> than
>> the decorative beveled moulding. Getting the old stuff off was a lot
>> of
>> work. I don't know what kind of nails they used 80 years ago, but I
>> swear
>> they must have been barbed. I also don't know what they used for
>> calking,
>> it was hard as rock, and was not in any hurry to leave the bricks.
>>
>> The big adventures here were that I drew blood a couple of times.
>> You had
>> to drill pilot holes in the edge of the door for the hinges. The
>> edge is
>> metal clad. I had the door laying flat on a couple of saw horses and
>> was
>> drilling into the edge. My hand was above the drill on the door,
>> helping
>> to keep it straight. The 1/8 inch bit snapped, the drill rammed
>> forward
>> and up, and the broken spinning bit ran across the underside of my
>> fingers. No major damage, and I kept working, but Teresa eventually
>> came
>> out and was a bit annoyed at all the blood on the new door.
>>
>> I also nicked myself with a regular old hand saw. I was being stupid
>> and
>> trying to hurry, I just wanted to rough cut the end off one of the
>> framing
>> members. I was holding the stick of wood in one hand and the saw in
>> the
>> other. I got mostly through the wood when it snapped off. It left
>> just a
>> little spike of wood sticking out the corner and I tried to just rip
>> it
>> off with one stroke, but the saw snagged, the stick rolled, and I
>> caught
>> the edge of my finger on the saw. Again, no major damage but more
>> blood
>> to be cleaned up.
>>
>> The door is in, is pretty straight, opens and closes, but I still
>> need to
>> put the closers on.
>>
>> One more task down, 77 to go.
>>
>> --
>> Blue skies.
>> Dan Rossi
>> Carnegie Mellon University.
>> E-Mail:  d...@andrew.cmu.edu
>> Tel: (412) 268-9081
>>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door.

[Spiro]

you've been hanging out with too many tough guys to use our arguments back 
at us! Right on!





On Fri, 9 Oct 2009, Jennifer Jackson wrote:

> Blood stains can seriously drop your property value. *smile*
> Besides, you are the same guys who used to say something about wanting to be 
> the man who walked 500 miles and then walked 500 more, just to be the man who 
> walked a 1000 miles for you and dropped down at your door.  What is a little 
> blood compared to that kind of devotion. *smile*
>
>
>
> Jennifer
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: wstep...@everestkc.net
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Cc: Blind Handyman List
>  Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 1:56 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door.
>
>
>What is it about women, wives in particular. I mean, here you are, trying 
> to do your level best, and while doing that, you do injury to yourself which 
> causes your life's blood to drip or flow out of your wound. Instead of 
> offerring kindness, sympathy, and aid, the wife is primarily concerned with 
> something so superficial as a little bloodstain.
>  And, speaking of new, we're having a new furnace and airconditioning unit 
> installed today. It's been a very painful process financially, and once 
> again, I've learned how arbitrary and capricious government and government 
> regulated utilities can be in terms of defining what does and does not 
> qualify for a tax or other credit.
>
>  Bill Stephan
>  Kansas Citty MO
>  Email: wstep...@everestkc.net
>  Phone: (816)803-2469
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Dan Rossi 
>  Date: Friday, October 9, 2009 1:48 pm
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door.
>  > Maybe you call it a screen door, or storm door, whatever, but I
>  > have a new
>  > one. Almost.
>  >
>  > Our house used to have one of those crappy sheet Aluminum storm
>  > doors
>  > with zero insulation value, noisy when you open and close it, and
>  > a stupid
>  > heavy glass window that you had to take out each summer, store it
>  > somewhere, and put it back in the winter.
>  >
>  > Well, I decided to upgrade. I got one of the doors where you just
>  > pull
>  > the upper window down and it pulls a rolled up screen down in it's
>  > place.
>  > It's got double panes, insulated frame, rubber magnetic seals and
>  > dual
>  > closers.
>  >
>  > Of course, I got the wrong size door, so what I hoped to be a
>  > quick and
>  > simple project turned out to take a little longer. I tried so
>  > hard to
>  > understand exactly what with of door I had, and what I needed to
>  > ask for.
>  > i still got it wrong. My door is wider and taller than the
>  > standards so
>  > had to get a custom door. I measured from brick mould to brick
>  > mould, but
>  > my mistake was that my old door sat inside the brick mould
>  > attached to a
>  > secondary frame. The new door, well the flange instead of sitting
>  > inside
>  > the brick mould, wrapped around the front of the brick mould.
>  >
>  > At first I didn't think that was an issue, but since the moulding
>  > was
>  > beveled, the screws were going through the edge and not holding.
>  > So, I
>  > ripped the old brick mould off, and installed a square frame
>  > rather than
>  > the decorative beveled moulding. Getting the old stuff off was a
>  > lot of
>  > work. I don't know what kind of nails they used 80 years ago, but
>  > I swear
>  > they must have been barbed. I also don't know what they used for
>  > calking,
>  > it was hard as rock, and was not in any hurry to leave the bricks.
>  >
>  > The big adventures here were that I drew blood a couple of times.
>  > You had
>  > to drill pilot holes in the edge of the door for the hinges. The
>  > edge is
>  > metal clad. I had the door laying flat on a couple of saw horses
>  > and was
>  > drilling into the edge. My hand was above the drill on the door,
>  > helping
>  > to keep it straight. The 1/8 inch bit snapped, the drill rammed
>  > forward
>  > and up, and the broken spinning bit ran across the underside of my
>  > fingers. No major damage, and I kept working, but Teresa
>  > eventually came
>  > out and was a bit annoyed at all the blood on the new door.
>  >
>  > I also nicked myself with a regular old hand saw. I was being
>  > stupid and
>  > trying to hurry, I just wanted to rough cut the end off one of the
>  > framing
>  > members. I was holding the stick of wood in one hand and the saw
>  > in the
>  > other. I got mostly through the wood when it snapped off. It
>  > left just a
>  > little spike of wood sticking out the corner and I tried to just
>  > rip it
>  > off with one stroke, but the saw snagged, the stick rolled, and I
>  > caught
>  > the edge of my finger on the saw. Again, no major damage but more
>  > blood
>  > to be cleaned up.
>  >
>  > The door is in, is pretty straight, opens and closes, but I still
>  > need to
>  > put the closers on.
>  >
>  > One more task down, 77 to go.
>  >
>  > --
>  > Blue skies.
>  > Dan Ros

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Stripping and a Finishing Touch

[Spiro]

as I may have missed where on the bass it is; if it's on the neck you may 
want to go even farther like 1500 or 1600 grit. No big deal it's about 3 
pages to the number it takes of the 100. So after the 100 you use a little 
more. Makes a nicer surface. But if it's somewhere like the body or the 
wing, no big deal.





On Sat, 10 Oct 2009, Scott Howell wrote:

> Hi Speiro, I think I'll take a shot perhaps at fixing it myself. I
> can't possibly screw it up any worse than it is and honestly after
> talking to a gent who really knows his stuff, he told me just buy the
> black coating material (need to verify I have the right stuff) and
> just paint it on a little at a time until it's just a bit higher than
> the surrounding area, let harden for a month, and then sand down with
> 800 or 1000 grit paper and call it a day.
> Maybe this bass would be worth some day, but I'll be quite dead by
> then and won't give a tinkers damn. So, might as well just give it a
> go myself and then take it in if I can't get it just right. After all,
> it'll never be perfect no matter what unless it was completely
> stripped and redone.
>
> tnx,
>
> On Oct 9, 2009, at 11:32 PM, Spiro wrote:
>
>> considering all that you said; if it were one of mine (My
>> Steinberger full
>> body which they could only match the blue at the factory) I'd leave
>> it to
>> the best shop in town. But if it were a more common, (as in
>> available, not
>> lesser quality) I might rub it with a fine grit till just but the
>> last bit
>> of smooth was gone, and see if that takes the problem area down.
>> Make a
>> few recordings with the natural neck (assuming that is where the
>> problem
>> is, take down just that area) and see if it makes any difference. Then
>> take it to be touched up and request their advice of finishes for
>> sound.
>> Or, take it to them, ask them to take just the finish down, and take
>> it
>> back home to record it. No that you can't hear it from an amp
>> session, but
>> recording saves it as well in case you want to take it back to the
>> previous, you'll have the event.
>>
>> On Thu, 8 Oct 2009, Scott Howell wrote:
>>
>>> You are correct TOm that it would decrease the value, but to be
>>> perfectly honest, it isn't worth much now any way. When I purchased
>>> it, I paid $900 or so for it. If I were to sell it today, it would
>>> fetch a price of around $500 to $600 and with the damage fixed and
>>> only if it was so fixed you wouldn't notice it, that may not affect
>>> the price to much. Point is I have nothing to loose since I have no
>>> plans to ever sell it. At this point a new one would actually cost
>> me
>>> $1,500 since Fender raised their price a good deal, but doesn't seem
>>> to affect the resale value much.
>>> You do however make a good point about the impact on the resale. Of
>>> course I probably wouldn't fix it myself. I'd have it done properly,
>>> but I would on the other hand strip it down myself and do something
>>> different.
>>> On Oct 6, 2009, at 8:06 PM, Tom Hodges wrote:
>>>
 I would take it to the professionals to fix as any home repair will
 decrease
 the value of it.

 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Scott Howell
 Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 1:17 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Stripping and a Finishing Touch

 Well I asked my wife about this, but nearly got slapped, so
>> thought I
 should ask you guys and oh yeah gals as well. Okay, just kidding,
>> but
 grabbed your attention didn't I?
 So, I have a Fender Jazz bass that for some inexplicable reason
 developed a crack in the coating which is some type of urithane
 (spelled incorrectly of course) and I did not realize this until
 something snagged on my shirt and pulled a good piece of the
>> material
 off the edge. So, now I'm faced with two options. One is take it to
 the shop to have this problem repaired since they have the
>> experience,
 tools, and materials to do the job right. I'm not honestly sure
>> what
 the stuff is that they put on there at the factory. The other
>> option
 is to finish what has already started and remove all that stuff.
>> Then
 i'd have an instrument I could do a hand-rubbed finish on,
>> restain, or
 simply apply a much thinner coat of urithane or some protective
 material. The thought process is that an unfinished instrument will
 have a slightly or perhaps a more noticeable difference in tone.
>> The
 whole point of this message is then to ask what would be the best
>> way
 to remove the remaining material if I chose to do so. Would I start
 with a really heavy grit paper and then begin to work to a finer
 paper? Assuming I do all of this, and I don't damage the stain
>> already
 on the instrument, what type of material would be best for I
>> believe
 it is Swamp Ash and might be something 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] New storm door.

[Spiro]

My favorite storm door has the louvered glass from knee to head high. I 
loved it as I could keep it open during hot rain storms without any worry. 
The panes were only about 4 inches. So little rain ever got in.
The mechanism is broken and I'm many years sad without it.
We grab the glass and tilt from outside now.





On Sat, 10 Oct 2009, Lee A. Stone wrote:

>
> Dan, do you know how many unemployed line carpenters  are  out there?
> You kids are all alike, in a hurry always  in a hurry. well the geese
> are moving so you still have time.  geeez.  I think our bst storm door
> was on a very very old house and it was a wooden door and yes it had a
> insert. with the  stanley wings n  it.  you take out the  screen and put
> inthe pane window  section.  .  so where did you get your door home
> depot or  lowes? Lee
>
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 09, 2009 at 02:48:09PM
> -0400,
> Dan Rossi wrote:
>> Maybe you call it a screen door, or storm door, whatever, but I have a new
>> one.  Almost.
>>
>> Our house used to have one of those crappy sheet Aluminum storm doors
>> with zero insulation value, noisy when you open and close it, and a stupid
>> heavy glass window that you had to take out each summer, store it
>> somewhere, and put it back in the winter.
>>
>> Well, I decided to upgrade.  I got one of the doors where you just pull
>> the upper window down and it pulls a rolled up screen down in it's place.
>> It's got double panes, insulated frame, rubber magnetic seals and dual
>> closers.
>>
>> Of course, I got the wrong size door, so what I hoped to be a quick and
>> simple project turned out to take a little longer.  I tried so hard to
>> understand exactly what with of door I had, and what I needed to ask for.
>> i still got it wrong.  My door is wider and taller than the standards so
>> had to get a custom door.  I measured from brick mould to brick mould, but
>> my mistake was that my old door sat inside the brick mould attached to a
>> secondary frame.  The new door, well the flange instead of sitting inside
>> the brick mould, wrapped around the front of the brick mould.
>>
>> At first I didn't think that was an issue, but since the moulding was
>> beveled, the screws were going through the edge and not holding.  So, I
>> ripped the old brick mould off, and installed a square frame rather than
>> the decorative beveled moulding.  Getting the old stuff off was a lot of
>> work.  I don't know what kind of nails they used 80 years ago, but I swear
>> they must have been barbed.  I also don't know what they used for calking,
>> it was hard as rock, and was not in any hurry to leave the bricks.
>>
>> The big adventures here were that I drew blood a couple of times.  You had
>> to drill pilot holes in the edge of the door for the hinges.  The edge is
>> metal clad.  I had the door laying flat on a couple of saw horses and was
>> drilling into the edge.  My hand was above the drill on the door, helping
>> to keep it straight.  The 1/8 inch bit snapped, the drill rammed forward
>> and up, and the broken spinning bit ran across the underside of my
>> fingers.  No major damage, and I kept working, but Teresa eventually came
>> out and was a bit annoyed at all the blood on the new door.
>>
>> I also nicked myself with a regular old hand saw.  I was being stupid and
>> trying to hurry, I just wanted to rough cut the end off one of the framing
>> members.  I was holding the stick of wood in one hand and the saw in the
>> other.  I got mostly through the wood when it snapped off.  It left just a
>> little spike of wood sticking out the corner and I tried to just rip it
>> off with one stroke, but the saw snagged, the stick rolled, and I caught
>> the edge of my finger on the saw.  Again, no major damage but more blood
>> to be cleaned up.
>>
>> The door is in, is pretty straight, opens and closes, but I still need to
>> put the closers on.
>>
>> One more task down, 77 to go.
>>
>>   --
>> Blue skies.
>> Dan Rossi
>> Carnegie Mellon University.
>> E-Mail:  d...@andrew.cmu.edu
>> Tel: (412) 268-9081
>
> -- 
> Far back in the mists of ancient time, in the great and glorious days of the
> former Galactic Empire, life was wild, rich and largely tax free.
>
> Mighty starships plied their way between exotic suns, seeking adventure and
> reward among the furthest reaches of Galactic space.  In those days, spirits
> were brave, the stakes were high, men were real men, women were real women
> and small furry creatures from Alpha Centauri were real small furry creatures
> from Alpha Centauri.  And all dared to brave unknown terrors, to do mighty
> deeds, to boldly split infinitives that no man had split before -- and thus
> was the Empire forged.
>   -- Douglas Adams, "The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy"
> .
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] new storm door

[Spiro]

You were the first person I ever heard mention these Lenny. They still 
sound great.
Do they have nay that you remember, which have really large open glass 
areas, so when they are opened will have as much area, (say hip to head) 
of open screen?





On Sat, 10 Oct 2009, Lenny McHugh wrote:

> I also replaced the old storm doors with self storing glass and screens. The
> glass on the old doors was heavy and I had to carry it to the third floor
> for safe storing. Now in the spring when I took out the glass and installed
> the screens it would always get cold and the opposite in the fall. Now if
> there is a warm day just lower the glass. I purchased both doors at Lowes'
> and they had an unadvertised special. For the weekend only any purchase
> there was a $60 installed price. This included delivery and removal of the
> old door. That offer was too hard to pass.
> That was about three years ago. I noticed that the hinges on the back door
> started to screech. A shot of one lube fixed that problem.
> ---
> Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
> with many resources for the blind.
> http://www.lennymchugh.com
> Lenny
> Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
> addressing.
> Help stop identity theft.
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
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> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
> just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Update on projects.

[Max Robinson]

Animals and wooly worms aren't any better at predicting the weather than we 
are.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com

- Original Message - 
From: "Dale Leavens" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Update on projects.


> Hi Betsy,
>
> This has been a most unusual summer. Rain and cool until September really 
> with the exception of a day or two most weeks. The gardens didn't do well 
> although my roses have really taken off since the end of September, there 
> just wasn't enough sustained heat. September was remarkably good, I laid a 
> lot of stone and had a lot laid for me. Since the last couple of days in 
> September though we keep getting fine drizzle and cold conditions though 
> not much below normal average temperatures, the wet though is interfering.
>
> There are a lot of folk legends about predicting the severity of winter, 
> the depth of snow and so on, I don't believe much of it. Certain wasps or 
> bees are said to build their nests higher when deep snow is expected, I 
> rather doubt that, seems to me they would want the insulation of the snow 
> to help the hives survive. Certainly the animals put on heavier coats most 
> of them in the winter but they do that every winter.
>
> There have been a lot of geese in the air but they are all gone now, or at 
> least I haven't heard them going over for the past two weeks and I don't 
> hear the hunters out. Moose season opened in this area yesterday so the 
> roads are full of hunters and trailers.
>
> Black bears are quite a nuisance this year but that probably has more to 
> do with a late berry season and since canceling the spring bear hunt their 
> number is increasing so they get bolder looking for food.
>
> Getting snow cover this time of year is not all that unusual, maybe just a 
> little early but I have often frozen fingers planting fall bulbs because 
> the nurseries won't send them out that couple of weeks early.
>
> Janet and I figure the useful outdoor season for us ends just about now, 
> Canadian Thanks Giving and doesn't really begin again before the first 
> week in May. I am thinking next year when I retire I'll close off the 
> water and drain the pipes for about the first of November and go find 
> somewhere in the sun to spend the time until May. Usually once we hit the 
> first week in May things just explode and you need to be here to keep on 
> top of the vegetation. Besides, I won't have all my work done before next 
> winter. Some time after that I hope to unload this old shack for a 
> reasonable amount of money to be able to relocate.
>
> Don't know if that answered any of your questions directly but I hope so.
>
> We had some friends come along with a utility trailer on Thursday to 
> remove loads of accumulated detritus of the building projects around here. 
> Friday night while waiting for the patio to dry thoroughly Janet and I 
> move a few of the left over bricks onto a pallet in the lane just to have 
> in case repairs are needed. Next decent weather I guess I'll have to cut 
> back those roses for the winter and chip all that debris. Usually I also 
> work about 30 bags of composted manure into the flower beds particularly 
> to have it present for the bulbs when they emerge in the spring. The roses 
> and other gardens can wait for the spring, maybe I'll just buy enough for 
> the front and the lily gardens, maybe I can get Janet to do that some dry 
> day even if I am at work. Doing it all is something I should help her with 
> as the bags get pretty heavy really fast. The gardening got a little ahead 
> of me this year with all the extra work but I am getting to look like an 
> aging miniature Adonis .
>
>
>  - Original Message - 
>  From: Betsy Whitney
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:01 AM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Update on projects.
>
>
>Aloha Dale,
>  Everytime I read the posts about your and Dan's project updates, I
>  have sore muscles for at least a week, grin...
>
>  Hearing about snow is astonishing to me as we have had about ten days
>  of the hottest, most humid weather we had in months. I am wondering
>  if there are signs of whether you're likely to have a very cold or
>  mild Winter like there are in such places as Reno, Navada, where my
>  parents live. Mom tells me that they can tell if the Winter is going
>  to be severe by the thickness of the horses coats and there is a
>  flower that wilts in early September if it is going to be particularly 
> cold.
>
>  It doesn't get that cold here, but I do notice a thickening of our
>  cats coat if we are about to have a long and chilly Winter.
>  Just wondering,
>  Betsy
>
>  At 03:4

Re: [BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit

[Spiro]

I remember wondering if the saber or jig saw blade had gotten to where I 
wanted to stop. So I got under the wood and looked, and it was moving 
slowly. So it grabbed a fingertip and tried to drag it through the wood, 
about 6 times. Yeah, fun.
I remember my reading finger see-ing a drill bit dance fancy across some 
wood and try to scoop out the pad of my left middle finger. My daighter 
thinks it's a tatoo of her first initial "C".




On Sun, 11 Oct 2009, Bob Kennedy wrote:

> You know your mother said not to play with dangerous tools...
>
> I've not done that with a router, but I have with a chain saw.  Actually 
> someone else was working the saw and his cutting and my looking got together. 
>  I don't know how your moment went but I swore I could count the links on the 
> chain as they were chewing on my finger.  Seems like time stands still for 
> just a couple seconds.  Then the pain hits and there is no more amazement.
>
> Keep your finger clean and wrap it well so banging and bumping has a minimal 
> affect on the pain.
>
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: john schwery
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:11 AM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] reading a router bit
>
>
>A week ago Friday night, I was routing with a big, round over
>  bit. For some reason, I reached my reading finger on my left hand
>  into the middle of the router base. I read the top corner of the bit
>  and it said, dot dot dot, very fast. It was the sharpest Braille I
>  have ever seen. My finger is healing nicely but still has a little ways to 
> go.
>
>  John
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>