date:20100802

Hey Alan,

I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do not want
to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will have to do
something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this plastic thing the
unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any longer.

On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:

The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It depends
on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be better
off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just get a
new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing the
right way.

Alan

Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
available upon request.

- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 4:21 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

Hi folks,

Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my heat
pump. THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the pad,
remove the existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete, and
set the pad on the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of course
this requires the unit be pumped down and I would have to have a
contractor come out and remove and reinstall the unit.
I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this beyond
moving the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue there is
it would be exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter, but
the HVAC contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words it is
better to protect it from the sun if possible.
The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is slowly
eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would be
easy to dig under the pad while the unit is sitting on it and jack it up
enough to really get under there and build up the ground. However, perhaps
it is possible and any thoughts appreciated.

THanks,

Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

They usually don't pour a pad when they install a new unit.  Most units come 
with a pad as a part of shipping, or the contractor brings one with him.

I've had to replace pads before, and didn't want to disconnect the lines to 
the house.  To do this, you have to rig up a temporary support for the unit.

I used a couple patio blocks,the 16 by 8 by 2 inch kind, and once they were 
higher than the current pad, I spanned the pad with a couple 2 by 6's.

Just be careful lifting the unit at funny angles.

It may be a little easier to put the wood under the unit first and then 
stack the blocks.  You can use a 2 by something as a pry bar to get one end 
at a time up enough to fit the last block under the 2 by 6.

Once you have everything clear of the faulty pad, you have to remove the 
pad.  This may mean you have to do a little landscaping to make a path out 
for it.

Finally you will have to make a new pad.

With space being tight like it will be, screw a 3 sided form together and 
then slide it under the 2 by 6's.  Screw it together so you can take it 
apart.  I'd spread some gravel on the ground and then mix as much concrete 
as you need to make the new pad 3 or 4 inches thick.  As the form fills up, 
you can add the final 2 by 4 across the front to keep the concrete from 
falling out.  Let it dry for a couple days and take the form apart. 
Finally, lower the unit on to its new home and you should be good for longer 
than the unit will last.


- Original Message - 
From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:16 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump


 Hey Alan,

 I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do not 
 want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will have 
 to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this plastic 
 thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any longer.

 On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:

 The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It depends
 on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be better
 off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just 
 get a
 new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
 probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing 
 the
 right way.

 Alan

 Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
 There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
 the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

 The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
 available upon request.

 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 4:21 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

  Hi folks,
 
  Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my heat
  pump. THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the pad,
  remove the existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete, 
  and
  set the pad on the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of 
  course
  this requires the unit be pumped down and I would have to have a
  contractor come out and remove and reinstall the unit.
  I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this beyond
  moving the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue there 
  is
  it would be exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter, 
  but
  the HVAC contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words it 
  is
  better to protect it from the sun if possible.
  The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is 
  slowly
  eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would be
  easy to dig under the pad while the unit is sitting on it and jack it 
  up
  enough to really get under there and build up the ground. However, 
  perhaps
  it is possible and any thoughts appreciated.
 
  THanks,
 
  
 
  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
 
  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
 
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  list just send a blank message to:
  blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 





 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 

 Send any questions regarding list management to:

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

Hey this is a really great idea, but let me ask a couple other questions on the 
actual digging part here.
I think supporting the unit will not be to difficult, but digging under the 
unit may be more of a challenge. I can probably lift it to some degree without 
breaking lines and the like.
Now I will have to start digging a couple of feet in front of the unit in order 
to dig under. Now how deep should I dig my hole? If the pad would be 3 to 4 
inches, I assume another two for gravel? Since this is on a slope, I will need 
to ensure the ground is level of course, but to help avoid as much as possible 
with the ground eroding over time, should I do anything else? I am thinking 
that the ground slopes sharply right by the heat pump and I think the idea is 
water etc. runs under the unit and on down the hill. I wonder if building that 
up and trying to direct the water to run elsewhere would help. I know this is 
hard to describe, but all thoughts appreciated.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 5:33 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

 They usually don't pour a pad when they install a new unit. Most units come 
 with a pad as a part of shipping, or the contractor brings one with him.
 
 I've had to replace pads before, and didn't want to disconnect the lines to 
 the house. To do this, you have to rig up a temporary support for the unit.
 
 I used a couple patio blocks,the 16 by 8 by 2 inch kind, and once they were 
 higher than the current pad, I spanned the pad with a couple 2 by 6's.
 
 Just be careful lifting the unit at funny angles.
 
 It may be a little easier to put the wood under the unit first and then 
 stack the blocks. You can use a 2 by something as a pry bar to get one end 
 at a time up enough to fit the last block under the 2 by 6.
 
 Once you have everything clear of the faulty pad, you have to remove the 
 pad. This may mean you have to do a little landscaping to make a path out 
 for it.
 
 Finally you will have to make a new pad.
 
 With space being tight like it will be, screw a 3 sided form together and 
 then slide it under the 2 by 6's. Screw it together so you can take it 
 apart. I'd spread some gravel on the ground and then mix as much concrete 
 as you need to make the new pad 3 or 4 inches thick. As the form fills up, 
 you can add the final 2 by 4 across the front to keep the concrete from 
 falling out. Let it dry for a couple days and take the form apart. 
 Finally, lower the unit on to its new home and you should be good for longer 
 than the unit will last.
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:16 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
 
  Hey Alan,
 
  I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do not 
  want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will have 
  to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this plastic 
  thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any longer.
 
  On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:
 
  The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It depends
  on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be better
  off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just 
  get a
  new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
  probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing 
  the
  right way.
 
  Alan
 
  Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
  There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
  the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!
 
  The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
  available upon request.
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 4:21 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
 
   Hi folks,
  
   Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my heat
   pump. THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the pad,
   remove the existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete, 
   and
   set the pad on the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of 
   course
   this requires the unit be pumped down and I would have to have a
   contractor come out and remove and reinstall the unit.
   I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this beyond
   moving the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue there 
   is
   it would be exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter, 
   but
   the HVAC contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words it 
   is
   better to protect it from the sun if possible.
   The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is 
   slowly
   eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would be
   easy to dig under the

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-02 Thread Dan Rossi

Scott,

There is always a way.  If they can jack up a house and rebuild the 
foundation, you can jack up your heat pump.  *GRIN*

I don't envy you the job of digging under it, or trying to stuff concrete 
under there, but it sounds doable.

You may wish to dig a nice trench along the uphil side of the pad and then 
along the front edge.  Lay in a bunch of gravel, a perforated pipe wrapped 
in a mesh sock, more gravel, and cover.  The pipe will run along the uphil 
side, then turn and go down along the front edge.  This will carry the 
water away without it washing out under the pad.

Happy digging.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel:(412) 268-9081

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

Thanks Dan, I don't really look forward to the project since the ground here
has been so hard, but soon I will get on this project. I am hoping I can draft
my brother for labor since this will take some effort.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 7:34 AM, Dan Rossi wrote:

Scott,

There is always a way. If they can jack up a house and rebuild the
foundation, you can jack up your heat pump. *GRIN*

I don't envy you the job of digging under it, or trying to stuff concrete
under there, but it sounds doable.

You may wish to dig a nice trench along the uphil side of the pad and then
along the front edge. Lay in a bunch of gravel, a perforated pipe wrapped
in a mesh sock, more gravel, and cover. The pipe will run along the uphil
side, then turn and go down along the front edge. This will carry the
water away without it washing out under the pad.

Happy digging.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

* Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

* To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

* To change settings via email:
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* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-02 Thread John Sherrer

I have central air with natural gas heat.  The outside unit is on a fairly 
steep grade.  The contractor used cinder block to level the ready made concrete 
pad.
I had thought about filling it up with concrete under the pad, but it has been 
their 18 years and have had no problems.  We do have a very hard red clay soil.
If you are going thru the trouble to move the unit, you may conceder making 
your own pad with concrete.  It is heavy work, but you would not be concerned 
about it for as long as you live their.

John
http://WhiteCane.org
http://BlindWoodWorker.com
http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
http://anellos.ws

  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 7:21 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump



  Hi folks,

  Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my heat pump. 
THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the pad, remove the 
existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete, and set the pad on 
the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of course this requires the 
unit be pumped down and I would have to have a contractor come out and remove 
and reinstall the unit.
  I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this beyond 
moving the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue there is it 
would be exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter, but the HVAC 
contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words it is better to 
protect it from the sun if possible.
  The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is slowly 
eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would be easy to 
dig under the pad while the unit is sitting on it and jack it up enough to 
really get under there and build up the ground. However, perhaps it is possible 
and any thoughts appreciated.

  THanks,

  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-02 Thread John Sherrer

You may not need to be concerned with the water problem since your ground is 
hard,.  The concrete should fill in with the ground and leave no gaps.  If 
the slope is higher  than the pad, you definately will not have a problem.
I would fill the whole pad with concrete and skip the gravel.  The gravel 
wsaves some of the back breaking work of mixing concrete since it reduces 
your concrete needs.  If the pad is made in such a way that it is always dry 
you will have mo movement.
In North Carolina where I live the soil will absorb  gravel, so in a few 
years it will be gone.  But if kept dry, it will not happen.  But with our 
hard soil, we have no problems with pouring concrete directly on the clay.

John
http://WhiteCane.org
http://BlindWoodWorker.com
http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
http://anellos.ws

- Original Message - 
From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:48 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump


 Hey this is a really great idea, but let me ask a couple other questions 
 on the actual digging part here.
 I think supporting the unit will not be to difficult, but digging under 
 the unit may be more of a challenge. I can probably lift it to some degree 
 without breaking lines and the like.
 Now I will have to start digging a couple of feet in front of the unit in 
 order to dig under. Now how deep should I dig my hole? If the pad would be 
 3 to 4 inches, I assume another two for gravel? Since this is on a slope, 
 I will need to ensure the ground is level of course, but to help avoid as 
 much as possible with the ground eroding over time, should I do anything 
 else? I am thinking that the ground slopes sharply right by the heat pump 
 and I think the idea is water etc. runs under the unit and on down the 
 hill. I wonder if building that up and trying to direct the water to run 
 elsewhere would help. I know this is hard to describe, but all thoughts 
 appreciated.

 On Aug 2, 2010, at 5:33 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

 They usually don't pour a pad when they install a new unit. Most units 
 come
 with a pad as a part of shipping, or the contractor brings one with him.

 I've had to replace pads before, and didn't want to disconnect the lines 
 to
 the house. To do this, you have to rig up a temporary support for the 
 unit.

 I used a couple patio blocks,the 16 by 8 by 2 inch kind, and once they 
 were
 higher than the current pad, I spanned the pad with a couple 2 by 6's.

 Just be careful lifting the unit at funny angles.

 It may be a little easier to put the wood under the unit first and then
 stack the blocks. You can use a 2 by something as a pry bar to get one 
 end
 at a time up enough to fit the last block under the 2 by 6.

 Once you have everything clear of the faulty pad, you have to remove the
 pad. This may mean you have to do a little landscaping to make a path out
 for it.

 Finally you will have to make a new pad.

 With space being tight like it will be, screw a 3 sided form together and
 then slide it under the 2 by 6's. Screw it together so you can take it
 apart. I'd spread some gravel on the ground and then mix as much concrete
 as you need to make the new pad 3 or 4 inches thick. As the form fills 
 up,
 you can add the final 2 by 4 across the front to keep the concrete from
 falling out. Let it dry for a couple days and take the form apart.
 Finally, lower the unit on to its new home and you should be good for 
 longer
 than the unit will last.

 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:16 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

  Hey Alan,
 
  I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do 
  not
  want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will 
  have
  to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this 
  plastic
  thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any 
  longer.
 
  On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:
 
  The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It 
  depends
  on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be 
  better
  off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just
  get a
  new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
  probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth 
  doing
  the
  right way.
 
  Alan
 
  Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
  There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
  the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!
 
  The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
  available upon request.
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 4:21 PM
  Subject:

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

Thanks John, that is the direction I'm going to go here. I think what ground
has eroded, is probably done for the most part. THe unit does not seem to be
listing really all that bad, but enough to cause the housing to rattle and I'm
thinking once this is done, the world will be right as ever and I will then
enjoy being in the same yard with the evil beast.

Thanks,
On Aug 2, 2010, at 10:48 AM, John Sherrer wrote:

I have central air with natural gas heat. The outside unit is on a fairly
steep grade. The contractor used cinder block to level the ready made
concrete pad.
I had thought about filling it up with concrete under the pad, but it has
been their 18 years and have had no problems. We do have a very hard red clay
soil.
If you are going thru the trouble to move the unit, you may conceder making
your own pad with concrete. It is heavy work, but you would not be concerned
about it for as long as you live their.

John
http://WhiteCane.org
http://BlindWoodWorker.com
http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
http://anellos.ws

- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 7:21 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

Hi folks,

Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my heat pump.
THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the pad, remove the
existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete, and set the pad on
the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of course this requires the
unit be pumped down and I would have to have a contractor come out and remove
and reinstall the unit.
I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this beyond
moving the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue there is it
would be exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter, but the
HVAC contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words it is better
to protect it from the sun if possible.
The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is slowly
eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would be easy
to dig under the pad while the unit is sitting on it and jack it up enough to
really get under there and build up the ground. However, perhaps it is
possible and any thoughts appreciated.

THanks,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

* Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

* To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

* To change settings via email:
blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com
blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com

* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

Thanks John, I'll keep this in mind once I get in there and start digging 
around. The fun part will be balancing the monster while I work on it. But you 
know, I think it'll work just perfectly with patience.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 11:10 AM, John Sherrer wrote:

 You may not need to be concerned with the water problem since your ground is 
 hard,. The concrete should fill in with the ground and leave no gaps. If 
 the slope is higher than the pad, you definately will not have a problem.
 I would fill the whole pad with concrete and skip the gravel. The gravel 
 wsaves some of the back breaking work of mixing concrete since it reduces 
 your concrete needs. If the pad is made in such a way that it is always dry 
 you will have mo movement.
 In North Carolina where I live the soil will absorb gravel, so in a few 
 years it will be gone. But if kept dry, it will not happen. But with our 
 hard soil, we have no problems with pouring concrete directly on the clay.
 
 John
 http://WhiteCane.org
 http://BlindWoodWorker.com
 http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
 http://anellos.ws
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:48 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
 
  Hey this is a really great idea, but let me ask a couple other questions 
  on the actual digging part here.
  I think supporting the unit will not be to difficult, but digging under 
  the unit may be more of a challenge. I can probably lift it to some degree 
  without breaking lines and the like.
  Now I will have to start digging a couple of feet in front of the unit in 
  order to dig under. Now how deep should I dig my hole? If the pad would be 
  3 to 4 inches, I assume another two for gravel? Since this is on a slope, 
  I will need to ensure the ground is level of course, but to help avoid as 
  much as possible with the ground eroding over time, should I do anything 
  else? I am thinking that the ground slopes sharply right by the heat pump 
  and I think the idea is water etc. runs under the unit and on down the 
  hill. I wonder if building that up and trying to direct the water to run 
  elsewhere would help. I know this is hard to describe, but all thoughts 
  appreciated.
 
  On Aug 2, 2010, at 5:33 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote:
 
  They usually don't pour a pad when they install a new unit. Most units 
  come
  with a pad as a part of shipping, or the contractor brings one with him.
 
  I've had to replace pads before, and didn't want to disconnect the lines 
  to
  the house. To do this, you have to rig up a temporary support for the 
  unit.
 
  I used a couple patio blocks,the 16 by 8 by 2 inch kind, and once they 
  were
  higher than the current pad, I spanned the pad with a couple 2 by 6's.
 
  Just be careful lifting the unit at funny angles.
 
  It may be a little easier to put the wood under the unit first and then
  stack the blocks. You can use a 2 by something as a pry bar to get one 
  end
  at a time up enough to fit the last block under the 2 by 6.
 
  Once you have everything clear of the faulty pad, you have to remove the
  pad. This may mean you have to do a little landscaping to make a path out
  for it.
 
  Finally you will have to make a new pad.
 
  With space being tight like it will be, screw a 3 sided form together and
  then slide it under the 2 by 6's. Screw it together so you can take it
  apart. I'd spread some gravel on the ground and then mix as much concrete
  as you need to make the new pad 3 or 4 inches thick. As the form fills 
  up,
  you can add the final 2 by 4 across the front to keep the concrete from
  falling out. Let it dry for a couple days and take the form apart.
  Finally, lower the unit on to its new home and you should be good for 
  longer
  than the unit will last.
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:16 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
 
   Hey Alan,
  
   I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do 
   not
   want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will 
   have
   to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this 
   plastic
   thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any 
   longer.
  
   On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:
  
   The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It 
   depends
   on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be 
   better
   off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just
   get a
   new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
   probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth 
   doing
   the
   right way.
  
   Alan
  
   Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
   There, you'll find files of my

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Heat pump rattling

Yep, and only if it were that simple, I'd be so happy.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 11:30 AM, RJ wrote:

Have you checked the covers or panels to see that they aren't loose. Or the
belt isn't worn or off center. Or if there isn't some duct work that isn't
fasten? I would before pouring a pad.
RJ

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-02 Thread Alan Paganelli

Yeah they do.  We just spent good money here.  There is a utility pedestal 
which sits on a concrete pad outside.  The pedestal exists exclusively to 
hold up the electric meter.  The power company insists it's our 
responsibility to replace it as the old one rusted out and was ready to fall 
over.  My question was how the hell could it rust out in the desert but they 
didn't see the humor in it.  The pole was 1200 plus another grand for a new 
concrete pad.  I am strongly considering sending them a bill every month for 
rental.  They probably won't pay for it but I can hassle them with it and 
hopefully stop that ripping off the public.

Alan

Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
the Yamaha Tyros keyboard.  I often add files so check back regularly!

The albums in Technics  format formerly on my website are still
available upon request.

- Original Message - 
From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 2:16 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump


 Hey Alan,

 I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do not 
 want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will have 
 to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this plastic 
 thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any longer.

 On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:

 The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It depends
 on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be better
 off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just 
 get a
 new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
 probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing 
 the
 right way.

 Alan

 Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
 There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
 the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

 The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
 available upon request.

 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 4:21 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

  Hi folks,
 
  Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my heat
  pump. THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the pad,
  remove the existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete, 
  and
  set the pad on the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of 
  course
  this requires the unit be pumped down and I would have to have a
  contractor come out and remove and reinstall the unit.
  I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this beyond
  moving the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue there 
  is
  it would be exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter, 
  but
  the HVAC contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words it 
  is
  better to protect it from the sun if possible.
  The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is 
  slowly
  eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would be
  easy to dig under the pad while the unit is sitting on it and jack it 
  up
  enough to really get under there and build up the ground. However, 
  perhaps
  it is possible and any thoughts appreciated.
 
  THanks,
 
  
 
  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
 
  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
 
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  list just send a blank message to:
  blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 





 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 

 Send any questions regarding list management to:
 blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
 Or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 Visit the archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

2010-08-02 Thread chiliblindman

 If you want to keep it at the current location and level it, it can be 
quite simple.  There should be some play in moving the unit and at least one 
direction.  Move it so ever gently in one direction.  On the side you moved 
it from, cut galvinized conduit pipe length to go below frost line.  Pound 
at least 2 or three into the ground along that side leaving the top at the 
level you want the bottom of the pad to be.
 Now shift the pad over those pipes with a little extra and pound pipe 
along the other side.  Once in place just put something under the middle to 
hold level.
 Check under the pad to see what the base is like on the underside. 
Some have partitions to add strength and other can have a foam concrete mix. 
Keep in mind what kind of give there is in the copper lines.
.bob

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers

2010-08-02 Thread Tom Fowle

Kaptec net, formerly tom Benham's science products,
has adapted devices but as bob says they're hundreds.

I think NFB store has adapted sterrette micrometers which are still not cheap
and have very difficult to feel grooves milled in them.

There keep being rumours that various tool makers have digital
tools with serial ports so as to connect to an
accessible computer or the like but I've had trouble actually finding the real
data on stuff you can get.

If you can deal with a dial indicator that tells you you're within
preset limits, I've seen indicators with limit switches that you couldn't
set your self, but which could turn on a beeper or the like when outside
the preset limits.  This could be much cheaper.  Try looking for 
dial indicator with limit switches if this kind of deal might do for you.

Tom Fowle
Smith-Kettlewell RERC


On Sun, Aug 01, 2010 at 08:38:56AM -0400, Bob Kennedy wrote:
 You're looking for something very pricey as in hundreds to measure a chain 
 that can be replaced for under $20.  
 
 But if you want to look into it, try captek.net  
   - Original Message - 
   From: Donnie Harris 
   To: Blindhandyman@YahooGroups.com 
   Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 12:00 AM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers
 
 
 
   I am a new list member and I am wondering if anyone knows about some type of
   either a talking or at least audible of some sort of calipers or or maybe a
   dial indicator. I work on chainsaws and I sharpen chainsaw chains and I am
   searching for something to help me with measureing the amount of the tooth
   on the chain that I am removeing, it's pretty critical to take off the exact
   amount when I change the machine from the left tooth to the right. This is
   when it can varie maybe 10 to 30 thousands. I need to find something audible
   even clicks would be fine if it is accurate Also I have to set the drag's on
   the chains and in this process I have to measure the difference of height of
   the tooth to the drag in between the teeth, this should be around25
   thousands in height for the best cut.
   I would appreciate any feed back. Thanks in advance, Donnie Harris.
 
 
 
   
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers

2010-08-02 Thread Alan Paganelli

The micrometer though can be locked on a setting if it needs to be a 
specific number every time.

Alan

Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
the Yamaha Tyros keyboard.  I often add files so check back regularly!

The albums in Technics  format formerly on my website are still
available upon request.

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers


 Kaptec net, formerly tom Benham's science products,
 has adapted devices but as bob says they're hundreds.

 I think NFB store has adapted sterrette micrometers which are still not 
 cheap
 and have very difficult to feel grooves milled in them.

 There keep being rumours that various tool makers have digital
 tools with serial ports so as to connect to an
 accessible computer or the like but I've had trouble actually finding the 
 real
 data on stuff you can get.

 If you can deal with a dial indicator that tells you you're within
 preset limits, I've seen indicators with limit switches that you 
 couldn't
 set your self, but which could turn on a beeper or the like when outside
 the preset limits.  This could be much cheaper.  Try looking for
 dial indicator with limit switches if this kind of deal might do for you.

 Tom Fowle
 Smith-Kettlewell RERC


 On Sun, Aug 01, 2010 at 08:38:56AM -0400, Bob Kennedy wrote:
 You're looking for something very pricey as in hundreds to measure a 
 chain that can be replaced for under $20.

 But if you want to look into it, try captek.net
   - Original Message - 
   From: Donnie Harris
   To: Blindhandyman@YahooGroups.com
   Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 12:00 AM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers



   I am a new list member and I am wondering if anyone knows about some 
 type of
   either a talking or at least audible of some sort of calipers or or 
 maybe a
   dial indicator. I work on chainsaws and I sharpen chainsaw chains and I 
 am
   searching for something to help me with measureing the amount of the 
 tooth
   on the chain that I am removeing, it's pretty critical to take off the 
 exact
   amount when I change the machine from the left tooth to the right. This 
 is
   when it can varie maybe 10 to 30 thousands. I need to find something 
 audible
   even clicks would be fine if it is accurate Also I have to set the 
 drag's on
   the chains and in this process I have to measure the difference of 
 height of
   the tooth to the drag in between the teeth, this should be around25
   thousands in height for the best cut.
   I would appreciate any feed back. Thanks in advance, Donnie Harris.





 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 

 Send any questions regarding list management to:
 blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
 Or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 Visit the archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
 list just send a blank message to:
 blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

[BlindHandyMan] sensguard hearing protection

2010-08-02 Thread Lenny McHugh

A year or ago there was a discussion about the sensguard hearing protection 
device. I purchased two of them one for me and the other for my wife. We both 
really like them, she uses hers when running the orik canister vacuum cleaner.
Anyway several months ago I was at a Woodcraft store and took mine along to 
show one of the guys that worked there. He was impressed and took down the 
company information. The other day there was a flyer from Woodcraft with this 
item on sale. Their regular price is less than I originally spent for mine. I 
paid around $25, they sell it for $19.99 and is on sale for $15.99.
That thing is amazing, when wearing it I can hear the teeth of the table saw 
blade cutting. I also can hear Karen walking around upstairs or if she calls 
me, but all of the loud wine of the motors are canceled out.
---
Please visit my home page, it is motivational, educational, inspirational with 
a touch of humor. There is also a very extensive resource list for the blind.
http://www.LennyMcHugh.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] sensguard hearing protection

cool, do you have a direct link to purchase these?

thanks,
david

David Engebretson Jr., CTO Peace Weaver Hosting
Need web hosting?
Come visit us at PeaceWeaverHosting.com
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: handyman-blind 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 12:51 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] sensguard hearing protection



  A year or ago there was a discussion about the sensguard hearing protection 
device. I purchased two of them one for me and the other for my wife. We both 
really like them, she uses hers when running the orik canister vacuum cleaner.
  Anyway several months ago I was at a Woodcraft store and took mine along to 
show one of the guys that worked there. He was impressed and took down the 
company information. The other day there was a flyer from Woodcraft with this 
item on sale. Their regular price is less than I originally spent for mine. I 
paid around $25, they sell it for $19.99 and is on sale for $15.99.
  That thing is amazing, when wearing it I can hear the teeth of the table saw 
blade cutting. I also can hear Karen walking around upstairs or if she calls 
me, but all of the loud wine of the motors are canceled out.
  ---
  Please visit my home page, it is motivational, educational, inspirational 
with a touch of humor. There is also a very extensive resource list for the 
blind.
  http://www.LennyMcHugh.com

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


--




  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
  Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3045 - Release Date: 08/02/10 
06:35:00


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

Thanks Bob, I think the challenge would be getting any pipe under there and
getting it below the frost line would be interesting. Of course I guess I need
to make sure there isn't anything I would want to hit. grin Actually the only
line I cannot account for is the waste line. My thought is it probably runs
from the back of the house, under the house, and out to the street. The only
reason I think this is the water line is in the front of the house, but the
sinks and other stuff is in the rear of the house. Ah what fun.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 1:55 PM, chiliblindman wrote:

If you want to keep it at the current location and level it, it can be
quite simple. There should be some play in moving the unit and at least one
direction. Move it so ever gently in one direction. On the side you moved
it from, cut galvinized conduit pipe length to go below frost line. Pound
at least 2 or three into the ground along that side leaving the top at the
level you want the bottom of the pad to be.
Now shift the pad over those pipes with a little extra and pound pipe
along the other side. Once in place just put something under the middle to
hold level.
Check under the pad to see what the base is like on the underside.
Some have partitions to add strength and other can have a foam concrete mix.
Keep in mind what kind of give there is in the copper lines.
.bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
just send a blank message to:
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* Your email settings:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

I wouldn't think 2 inches is necessary for something that light.  The gravel 
will let the water run through it without eroding the ground so much under 
everything.

I'd go with an inch of gravel myself.  If you are on a slope, then you may 
want to think about wings on the inside of the form.  Put the closed end 
at the upper part of the slope and then use a piece of half inch plywood on 
the inside of the form to level everything out.  The wings will touch the 
ground and you can help keep the concrete from running under the edges of 
the form that way.

Depending on the amount of slope, you can use extra gravel on the downhill 
side.  Then just dump the concrete, I like Quikrete mix personally, in on 
the gravel and let it set.

As you probably know, you will most likely need a wing to help close in the 
open end, to keep the gravel from running away.  You know how things go when 
you have to improvise.


- Original Message - 
From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:48 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump


 Hey this is a really great idea, but let me ask a couple other questions 
 on the actual digging part here.
 I think supporting the unit will not be to difficult, but digging under 
 the unit may be more of a challenge. I can probably lift it to some degree 
 without breaking lines and the like.
 Now I will have to start digging a couple of feet in front of the unit in 
 order to dig under. Now how deep should I dig my hole? If the pad would be 
 3 to 4 inches, I assume another two for gravel? Since this is on a slope, 
 I will need to ensure the ground is level of course, but to help avoid as 
 much as possible with the ground eroding over time, should I do anything 
 else? I am thinking that the ground slopes sharply right by the heat pump 
 and I think the idea is water etc. runs under the unit and on down the 
 hill. I wonder if building that up and trying to direct the water to run 
 elsewhere would help. I know this is hard to describe, but all thoughts 
 appreciated.

 On Aug 2, 2010, at 5:33 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

 They usually don't pour a pad when they install a new unit. Most units 
 come
 with a pad as a part of shipping, or the contractor brings one with him.

 I've had to replace pads before, and didn't want to disconnect the lines 
 to
 the house. To do this, you have to rig up a temporary support for the 
 unit.

 I used a couple patio blocks,the 16 by 8 by 2 inch kind, and once they 
 were
 higher than the current pad, I spanned the pad with a couple 2 by 6's.

 Just be careful lifting the unit at funny angles.

 It may be a little easier to put the wood under the unit first and then
 stack the blocks. You can use a 2 by something as a pry bar to get one 
 end
 at a time up enough to fit the last block under the 2 by 6.

 Once you have everything clear of the faulty pad, you have to remove the
 pad. This may mean you have to do a little landscaping to make a path out
 for it.

 Finally you will have to make a new pad.

 With space being tight like it will be, screw a 3 sided form together and
 then slide it under the 2 by 6's. Screw it together so you can take it
 apart. I'd spread some gravel on the ground and then mix as much concrete
 as you need to make the new pad 3 or 4 inches thick. As the form fills 
 up,
 you can add the final 2 by 4 across the front to keep the concrete from
 falling out. Let it dry for a couple days and take the form apart.
 Finally, lower the unit on to its new home and you should be good for 
 longer
 than the unit will last.

 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:16 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

  Hey Alan,
 
  I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do 
  not
  want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will 
  have
  to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this 
  plastic
  thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any 
  longer.
 
  On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:
 
  The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It 
  depends
  on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be 
  better
  off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just
  get a
  new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
  probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth 
  doing
  the
  right way.
 
  Alan
 
  Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
  There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
  the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!
 
  The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
  available upon request.
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

Thank you sir, this is valuable info and I will file it for when I begin the 
project.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 4:38 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

 I wouldn't think 2 inches is necessary for something that light. The gravel 
 will let the water run through it without eroding the ground so much under 
 everything.
 
 I'd go with an inch of gravel myself. If you are on a slope, then you may 
 want to think about wings on the inside of the form. Put the closed end 
 at the upper part of the slope and then use a piece of half inch plywood on 
 the inside of the form to level everything out. The wings will touch the 
 ground and you can help keep the concrete from running under the edges of 
 the form that way.
 
 Depending on the amount of slope, you can use extra gravel on the downhill 
 side. Then just dump the concrete, I like Quikrete mix personally, in on 
 the gravel and let it set.
 
 As you probably know, you will most likely need a wing to help close in the 
 open end, to keep the gravel from running away. You know how things go when 
 you have to improvise.
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:48 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
 
  Hey this is a really great idea, but let me ask a couple other questions 
  on the actual digging part here.
  I think supporting the unit will not be to difficult, but digging under 
  the unit may be more of a challenge. I can probably lift it to some degree 
  without breaking lines and the like.
  Now I will have to start digging a couple of feet in front of the unit in 
  order to dig under. Now how deep should I dig my hole? If the pad would be 
  3 to 4 inches, I assume another two for gravel? Since this is on a slope, 
  I will need to ensure the ground is level of course, but to help avoid as 
  much as possible with the ground eroding over time, should I do anything 
  else? I am thinking that the ground slopes sharply right by the heat pump 
  and I think the idea is water etc. runs under the unit and on down the 
  hill. I wonder if building that up and trying to direct the water to run 
  elsewhere would help. I know this is hard to describe, but all thoughts 
  appreciated.
 
  On Aug 2, 2010, at 5:33 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote:
 
  They usually don't pour a pad when they install a new unit. Most units 
  come
  with a pad as a part of shipping, or the contractor brings one with him.
 
  I've had to replace pads before, and didn't want to disconnect the lines 
  to
  the house. To do this, you have to rig up a temporary support for the 
  unit.
 
  I used a couple patio blocks,the 16 by 8 by 2 inch kind, and once they 
  were
  higher than the current pad, I spanned the pad with a couple 2 by 6's.
 
  Just be careful lifting the unit at funny angles.
 
  It may be a little easier to put the wood under the unit first and then
  stack the blocks. You can use a 2 by something as a pry bar to get one 
  end
  at a time up enough to fit the last block under the 2 by 6.
 
  Once you have everything clear of the faulty pad, you have to remove the
  pad. This may mean you have to do a little landscaping to make a path out
  for it.
 
  Finally you will have to make a new pad.
 
  With space being tight like it will be, screw a 3 sided form together and
  then slide it under the 2 by 6's. Screw it together so you can take it
  apart. I'd spread some gravel on the ground and then mix as much concrete
  as you need to make the new pad 3 or 4 inches thick. As the form fills 
  up,
  you can add the final 2 by 4 across the front to keep the concrete from
  falling out. Let it dry for a couple days and take the form apart.
  Finally, lower the unit on to its new home and you should be good for 
  longer
  than the unit will last.
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell scottn3...@gmail.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:16 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
 
   Hey Alan,
  
   I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do 
   not
   want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will 
   have
   to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this 
   plastic
   thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any 
   longer.
  
   On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:
  
   The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It 
   depends
   on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be 
   better
   off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just
   get a
   new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
   probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth 
   doing
   the
   right way.
  
   Alan
  
   Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
   There, you'll find files of my arrangements and

[BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

2010-08-02 Thread Dan Rossi

We have begun interviewing contractors to remodel our kitchen.  One issue 
we have been working around is that there is a chimney running from the 
basement, up through the kitchen, and on up through the second floor and 
roof, obviously.  The hot water tank that had been venting through that 
chimney has been moved, so nothing is actually using the chimney any more.

Our plan is to expose the brick of the chimney, it has been plastered over 
possibly since it was built, 80 years ago.  However, the first contractor 
we spoke to asked if we had considered removing that part of the chimney 
to just get it out of the way.  I told him that I had thought of it, but 
didn't think it would be possible to remove the middle of a chimney.  I 
mean, I assume those things are a tad bit heavy.  This contractor implied 
that he could remove the middle of the chimney and still support the upper 
part from the ceiling joists.

Does this sound realistic?

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel:(412) 268-9081

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

2010-08-02 Thread jim

hi Dan have them take it all out
i have an old house and have what they call a Finnish chimney.
that is it only came down to about head high.
well after all the years it started to bulge the wall out ward.
had some remodeling done and they took it out and it weighed over a tun.
he new cause he took it to the dump and they weigh stuff like that.
so yeah it will hold for a wile but i wouldn't want to live under it.
Jim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

I'm of the all or nothing belief.  If it goes, you have to fill in the floor in 
two places.  If only part comes out, you may have to replace more than a couple 
places of the floor.

I'd be real nervous about taking part of it out.  You could probably do the 
demolition and enjoy it.  just remember, it also goes through the roof which 
has its own set of problems.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman List 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:13 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

  We have begun interviewing contractors to remodel our kitchen. One issue 
  we have been working around is that there is a chimney running from the 
  basement, up through the kitchen, and on up through the second floor and 
  roof, obviously. The hot water tank that had been venting through that 
  chimney has been moved, so nothing is actually using the chimney any more.

  Our plan is to expose the brick of the chimney, it has been plastered over 
  possibly since it was built, 80 years ago. However, the first contractor 
  we spoke to asked if we had considered removing that part of the chimney 
  to just get it out of the way. I told him that I had thought of it, but 
  didn't think it would be possible to remove the middle of a chimney. I 
  mean, I assume those things are a tad bit heavy. This contractor implied 
  that he could remove the middle of the chimney and still support the upper 
  part from the ceiling joists.

  Does this sound realistic?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

It's very realistic to remove chimney.  Just a little engineering involved 
which equalls dollars, of course.  In both houses I have I've removed the 
chimneys because they were over 100 years old and serious earthquake and storm 
risks.

Cheers,
David Engebretson Jr., CTO Peace Weaver Hosting
Need web hosting?
Come visit us at PeaceWeaverHosting.com
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman List 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 7:13 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney



  We have begun interviewing contractors to remodel our kitchen. One issue 
  we have been working around is that there is a chimney running from the 
  basement, up through the kitchen, and on up through the second floor and 
  roof, obviously. The hot water tank that had been venting through that 
  chimney has been moved, so nothing is actually using the chimney any more.

  Our plan is to expose the brick of the chimney, it has been plastered over 
  possibly since it was built, 80 years ago. However, the first contractor 
  we spoke to asked if we had considered removing that part of the chimney 
  to just get it out of the way. I told him that I had thought of it, but 
  didn't think it would be possible to remove the middle of a chimney. I 
  mean, I assume those things are a tad bit heavy. This contractor implied 
  that he could remove the middle of the chimney and still support the upper 
  part from the ceiling joists.

  Does this sound realistic?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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17:59:00


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] mower issue

My mower stops running after a few minutes of mowing unless I open the throttle 
while I prime it with the little rubber bulb on the side of the carb.  This 
must be a tell tale sign of a specific issue... anyone know what it is?  
thermometer?  clogged primer? need a new motor?

thanks,
david


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

2010-08-02 Thread RJ

Dan,

I had one of these supported in this manor in one of my apartments, And it is 
still there after 90 plus years.
RJ
P. S. If I  was remodeling and still was in the rental business, I most likely 
would have removed it.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman List 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:13 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney



  We have begun interviewing contractors to remodel our kitchen. One issue 
  we have been working around is that there is a chimney running from the 
  basement, up through the kitchen, and on up through the second floor and 
  roof, obviously. The hot water tank that had been venting through that 
  chimney has been moved, so nothing is actually using the chimney any more.

  Our plan is to expose the brick of the chimney, it has been plastered over 
  possibly since it was built, 80 years ago. However, the first contractor 
  we spoke to asked if we had considered removing that part of the chimney 
  to just get it out of the way. I told him that I had thought of it, but 
  didn't think it would be possible to remove the middle of a chimney. I 
  mean, I assume those things are a tad bit heavy. This contractor implied 
  that he could remove the middle of the chimney and still support the upper 
  part from the ceiling joists.

  Does this sound realistic?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

Yah, Jim, almost like they should call it a widows chimney.  
David Engebretson Jr., CTO Peace Weaver Hosting
Need web hosting?
Come visit us at PeaceWeaverHosting.com
  - Original Message - 
  From: jim 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 7:17 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

  hi Dan have them take it all out
  i have an old house and have what they call a Finnish chimney.
  that is it only came down to about head high.
  well after all the years it started to bulge the wall out ward.
  had some remodeling done and they took it out and it weighed over a tun.
  he new cause he took it to the dump and they weigh stuff like that.
  so yeah it will hold for a wile but i wouldn't want to live under it.
  Jim

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--

  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
  Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3046 - Release Date: 08/02/10 
17:59:00

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

Oh, Dan, I've removed the entire chimney.  If your wife likes the chimney for 
aesthetics you can always get a plastic one like those plastic santa's you put 
on your roof.  santa will still be able to fit down that plastic one, believe 
me.

David Engebretson Jr., CTO Peace Weaver Hosting
Need web hosting?
Come visit us at PeaceWeaverHosting.com
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Engebretson Jr. 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 7:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney



  It's very realistic to remove chimney. Just a little engineering involved 
which equalls dollars, of course. In both houses I have I've removed the 
chimneys because they were over 100 years old and serious earthquake and storm 
risks.

  Cheers,
  David Engebretson Jr., CTO Peace Weaver Hosting
  Need web hosting?
  Come visit us at PeaceWeaverHosting.com
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman List 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 7:13 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

  We have begun interviewing contractors to remodel our kitchen. One issue 
  we have been working around is that there is a chimney running from the 
  basement, up through the kitchen, and on up through the second floor and 
  roof, obviously. The hot water tank that had been venting through that 
  chimney has been moved, so nothing is actually using the chimney any more.

  Our plan is to expose the brick of the chimney, it has been plastered over 
  possibly since it was built, 80 years ago. However, the first contractor 
  we spoke to asked if we had considered removing that part of the chimney 
  to just get it out of the way. I told him that I had thought of it, but 
  didn't think it would be possible to remove the middle of a chimney. I 
  mean, I assume those things are a tad bit heavy. This contractor implied 
  that he could remove the middle of the chimney and still support the upper 
  part from the ceiling joists.

  Does this sound realistic?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  --

  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
  Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3046 - Release Date: 08/02/10 
17:59:00

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


--




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  Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3046 - Release Date: 08/02/10 
17:59:00


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

excellent p.s. advice.

David Engebretson Jr., CTO Peace Weaver Hosting
Need web hosting?
Come visit us at PeaceWeaverHosting.com
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 7:27 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

  Dan,

  I had one of these supported in this manor in one of my apartments, And it is 
still there after 90 plus years.
  RJ
  P. S. If I was remodeling and still was in the rental business, I most likely 
would have removed it.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman List 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:13 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

  We have begun interviewing contractors to remodel our kitchen. One issue 
  we have been working around is that there is a chimney running from the 
  basement, up through the kitchen, and on up through the second floor and 
  roof, obviously. The hot water tank that had been venting through that 
  chimney has been moved, so nothing is actually using the chimney any more.

  Our plan is to expose the brick of the chimney, it has been plastered over 
  possibly since it was built, 80 years ago. However, the first contractor 
  we spoke to asked if we had considered removing that part of the chimney 
  to just get it out of the way. I told him that I had thought of it, but 
  didn't think it would be possible to remove the middle of a chimney. I 
  mean, I assume those things are a tad bit heavy. This contractor implied 
  that he could remove the middle of the chimney and still support the upper 
  part from the ceiling joists.

  Does this sound realistic?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--

  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
  Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3046 - Release Date: 08/02/10 
17:59:00

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

2010-08-02 Thread Dan Rossi

I think that is why he is suggesting only removing the middle of the 
chimney, don't have to deal with the roof issues and such.  I think that 
removing the entire thing would get to be more of a project than we really 
want to invest in this tiny house.  I'd rather keep the whole thing than 
remove the whole thing.

The contractors point of view was that the weight of the upper part of the 
chimney isn't all on the ceiling joists because it is all mortared 
together.  My point is that mortar isn't forever, and it isn't great in 
tention.

I think it is more work and cost than we really want to do.


-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel:(412) 268-9081

Re: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue

2010-08-02 Thread jim

sounds like the little holes in your gas cap are clogged.
get a small piece of wire and poke all around the cap or maybe down through the 
top.
if that don't work get a new one.
but thats to good of a fix to be true but it was the problem on one i had.
jim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue

2010-08-02 Thread RJ

Had the same problem with my 4 cycle mower, got some spray carbonate cleaner 
and got the thing running. sprayed the cleaner in the filter. The mower runs 
like a new one. Believe the float was stuck.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Engebretson Jr. 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:26 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue

  My mower stops running after a few minutes of mowing unless I open the 
throttle while I prime it with the little rubber bulb on the side of the carb. 
This must be a tell tale sign of a specific issue... anyone know what it is? 
thermometer? clogged primer? need a new motor?

  thanks,
  david

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue

Actually that could be it.  the problem goes away if i loosen the gas cap, too.

Thanks,
David

David Engebretson Jr., CTO Peace Weaver Hosting
Need web hosting?
Come visit us at PeaceWeaverHosting.com
  - Original Message - 
  From: jim 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 8:15 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue



  sounds like the little holes in your gas cap are clogged.
  get a small piece of wire and poke all around the cap or maybe down through 
the top.
  if that don't work get a new one.
  but thats to good of a fix to be true but it was the problem on one i had.
  jim

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


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  Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3046 - Release Date: 08/02/10 
17:59:00


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue