Re: [SPAM] [BlindHandyMan] Bathtub calking

2009-11-21 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Hello Max,
you might want to think about filling the tub with water before calking.  This 
should help the tub be settled to its lowest point, this will make up for if it 
moves any when humans get in to it. 
Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Max Robinson 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 2:14 PM
  Subject: [SPAM] [BlindHandyMan] Bathtub calking



  As I write this Sue is scraping away the old calking from the bathtub in 
  preparation to recalking. She uses the hard stuff. She is wondering 
  outloud if there is some easier way than using a hand scraper. Is there?

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

  To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
  funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com



  

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry

2009-10-26 Thread Arthur Rizzino
By any chance could the float be out of adjustment? If so the tank's extra 
water will run down the over flow and run your water bill up.
Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: wstep...@everestkc.net 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 4:29 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry


Clifford: I hadn't thought about the float saving water until I read your 
post, but it makes perfect sense now. I wound up getting floats on the two 
supposedly universal flappers I bought this morning because they don't cost 
extra, and I can easily remove them if I need to. After all this, the thing is 
apparently not seated right anyway, because it still occasionally runs. Is 
there anything else I can do before calling in the professional turd wrastlers? 
Should I try changing the shut-off unit? I can't see that that would make a 
difference, but then my batting average on this one is pretty punky anyway.
  Thanks for any thoughts. I hope there's not some kind of damaging leak going 
on that I don't know about.

  Bill Stephan 
  Kansas Citty MO 
  Email: wstep...@everestkc.net 
  Phone: (816)803-2469

  - Original Message -
  From: clifford cliff...@tds.net
  Date: Sunday, October 25, 2009 1:30 pm
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry
   Dear Dale: 
   I had a problem with the arm dropping too low with a tank on 
   which I had changed out the original handle and arm. I discovered 
   that the adjustment for the arm was related to the position you 
   have the arm in, when you tighten down the nut to hold it in 
   place. In my case, the thread was a left hand thread and it took 
   me a minute to figure out what was going on with the unit. 
   When changing out the flapper on the new model commodes, I 
   make sure and get one without the float, as that is designed in 
   many to cut down on water usage, and since we do not have a 
   shortage of water, since our drought lifted, I prefer the full 
   flush, as that prevents blockages much better. 
   
   Yours Truly, 
   
   Clifford Wilson 
   - Original Message - 
   From: Dale Leavens 
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
   Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 12:17 PM 
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry 
   
   
   
   Just that I had a similar problem with one of the toilets here a 
   couple of weeks ago. I couldn't really see anything wrong with the 
   flapper but since I had to change out the valve assembly anyway 
   and the flapper was part of that kit I changed the flapper too and 
   the trickle quit. The original flapper was a little stiff and 
   there seemed to be some encrustment on it which didn't really 
   scrape off so I am guessing it just wasn't forming to the seat as 
   well as the new and now softer flapper. 
   
   I ran into another issue though which I can't explain, the lever 
   arm doesn't seem to want to stop descending so it interferes with 
   the fall float. I took a really stiff piece of wire and bent it to 
   90 degrees and pushed one end of it into the top of the foam 
   insulation of the tank so the other sticks out horizontally and 
   restrains the lever arm from dropping below about the horizontal. 
   seems to be working. 
   
   - Original Message - 
   From: wstep...@everestkc.net 
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
   Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 11:58 AM 
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry 
   
   Dale, I de-slimed the thing as best I could, but we have hard 
   water, and the flapper I'm having trouble with is at least four 
   and a half yhears old, so it's probably time for a new one. 
   
   Bill Stephan 
   Kansas Citty MO 
   Email: wstep...@everestkc.net 
   Phone: (816)803-2469 
   
   - Original Message - 
   From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net 
   Date: Saturday, October 24, 2009 8:56 pm 
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry 
Try adjusting the chain so it pulls the flapper up a little 
higher. This causes water to tip out of the flapper so it takes 
   a 
little longer to settle down onto the seat. 

You might try wiping around the surface of the flapper seat with 
   a 
rag too. Sometimes it collects slime and such which interferes 
with a good seal. Similarly, old rubber on those flappers 
sometimes gets hard or stiff or otherwise deforms and that can 
interfere with the seal. 

Hope this helps. 


- Original Message - 
From: wstep...@everestkc.net 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 9:27 PM 
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry 


Well folks, as the subject line indicates I've been trying to 
fix a leaking or running toilet today. So far the lads at the 
hardware store, you know, the one that's a mile from my house on 
foot and a mile bac, have sold me two flappers, one which I 
   broke 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wireless Network Connection Unavailable?

2009-08-31 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Claudia wrote
I'm connected via the Ethernet cord
I am not aware of any computer that can be connected wirelessly and wired at 
the same time.  If you are connected wired and the wireless is still active in 
your computer it might announce the status of wireless networks.  So connected 
wired, no wireless connection.  Also might there be a neighbor near by who 
might have a wireless network that the computer detects?


  - Original Message - 
  From: Claudia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 8:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wireless Network Connection Unavailable?


No Betsey,

  The connection is not available still. 
  I don't knows if calling my ISP will serve any purpose because I'm able to 
send  receive messages, and I'm connected via the Ethernet cord.

  I don't know.

  Claudia

  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 7:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [Blind] Wireless Network Connection Unavailable?

  Maybe the incoming mail part of your server is down. Not something 
  you did. Wait a few minutes and see if it corrects itself. However, 
  if you receive this message, that isn't the problem.
  Betsy
  At 02:01 PM 8/31/2009, you wrote:
  
  
  Hi,
  
  Why would my wireless network connection be unavailable?
  
  I'm connected right now, via the Ethernet cord, but I haven't ever had this
  message come up, since I set up the connection?
  Thanks.
  
  Claudia
  
  Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while
  the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
  
mailto:our-safe-haven-subscribe%40googlegroups.comour-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com
  
mailto:makinghouseworkeasier-subscribe%40googlegroups.commakinghouseworkeasier-subscr...@googlegroups.com
  
  

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] power washer question

2009-07-06 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Claudia depending on the model and power of the power washer, one could remove 
paint or damage siding if the unit is to powerful 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Claudia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 2:59 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] power washer question





  We have a power washer; it's a pretty bulky machine.

  I'm just trying to picture myself using it, and I have this mental image of 
me being super-soaked, instead of the house, which would have been the primary 
purpose of my trying to power wash.

  Now, given that I have all summer to take on this task, what do I need to 
know?
  Or, should I even attempt it, being that I have no sight whatsoever!
  LOL!

  I first have to find out what type of power washer we have.

  Claudia

  - Original Message - 
  From: Spiro 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 1:16 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] power washer question

  tell a little about super nozzle types if you can.

  On Sun, 5 Jul 2009, William Stephan wrote:

   Well, these really vary. You can find everything from a kind of super nozel
   that fits a garden hose through electrically operated pressure washers on up
   to heavy duty units that are generally powered by a gasoline engine and can
   take slurry. So, what is it you're trying to clean and how often will you
   be using the unit?
  
  
  
  
  
   -Original Message-
   From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
   On Behalf Of carl
   Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 05:11
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] power washer question
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   what is the best power washer to go for for power of the water jet and for
   qualaty?
  
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  
  
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Finding my curb box.

2009-06-15 Thread Arthur Rizzino
When I lived in Albany New York my house was on a slab and the water meter was 
under the kitchen sink  .  Since both of us are blind I would need to get a 
sighted person to read it and fill out the card, then I would mail the card.  I 
think once a year the water company would come in and read the meter.to make 
sure that the amount was correct.
Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 9:53 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Finding my curb box.





  At least for me, my water meter is in the basement and there is a shut-off 
  there, but then there is another shut-off between there and the main. 
  That is the one buried in the lawn.

  I assume that in some warmer places the meters may be above ground level. 
  And in places that don't have basements, I have no idea where they might 
  put them.

  We have a box on the outside of the house that is supposed to let the 
  meter readers read the water usage electronically. However, I have my 
  suspicions that they don't read them all that often as once a year or 
  two, I get a ridiculous water bill that is for much more than my average 
  bill. For instance, they only charge by the thousand gallons here. My 
  bill is typically for 3000 gallons a month, occasionally it dips just 
  below that I guess and the bill is for 2000 gallons. Last year I got a 
  bill for 8000 gallons. I made them come out and reread the meter and they 
  said it was correct. I seriously doubt I just happened to use an extra 
  5000 gallons in 30 days without realizing it. That would be more than 
  just a drip.

  Same exact thing happened to a buddy of mine.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] telephone headset

2009-04-17 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Hello Jim,
I agree with others on this list that Plantronics equipment is the way to go.
For some reason buying from vendors is cheaper than buying from Plantronics  
direct.
SKC Communication Products Inc.

800 882 7779

SMH1783-11 headset special, price around $240.00I think

Also get the optional AC adapter 26503-01 

If they ask who told you,  Art from Pittsburgh.

Good luck.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim King 
  To: Blind Handymen's Forum 
  Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 9:54 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] telephone headset





  I am looking for a headset to use with my land-line phone that will take the
  place of the actual receiver. I need to be able to listen to JAWS in one
  ear and the phone conversation in the other ear. Are there any suggestions
  for a good quality headset like this?

  Jim

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] reading blank PDF's!

2009-03-25 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Hi Claudia,
Often when a screen reader says that a PDF file is blank you can read it 
through one of the blindness scanning packages OpenBook or Kurzweil 1000.
When in Adobe start the printing process and select the printer choice that 
came with your scanning package (Freedom Import Printer or the Kesi Virtual 
Printer).
Then you read the file in your scanning package.
Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Claudia 
  To: Claudia 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 8:16 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Scanning Books  PDF Questions!


  Hi All,

  Has anyone had any success with scanning books, particularly young
  children's books, with either Kurzweil or OpenBook?
  I have lots of books here for my son, and I was having volunteers read them
  for me, but I can't keep up and wanted to know if there might be an easier
  way?

  I also can't remember how to read documents, when Adobe tells me that the
  document is empty? If anyone could refresh my memory, I'd appreciate it
  very much!
  Thanks.

  Claudia


  


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] door nob question

2009-02-24 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Kevin,
You do not want both of the reciprocating parts to go in to the receiving whole 
in the door jam.  If you hold the extra reciprocating part in, you will notice 
that the large  reciprocating part can not be pressed in.  This helps 
preventing people from easily jimmying the door open when it is closed.
I hope this makes sense to you.
Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Kevin Doucet 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 9:41 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] door nob question


  The receiving whole in the door jam does not have a wide enough area 
  to allow for the extra reciprocating part. Seems it would need to be 
  widened. How would I accomplish this?

  At 02:45 AM 2/24/2009, you wrote:

  Some of them do, but they all go together the same way.
  - Original Message -
  From: Kevin Doucet
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 1:12 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] door nob question
  
  H,
  
  A door knob with a key lock has a little retracting thingy on the
  plunger which a door knob with out a key lock does not have. h
  
  At 04:49 AM 2/23/2009, you wrote:
  
   A door handle that locks is the same as one that doesn't. Basically
   the locking set will have 3 working parts along with a couple strike
   plates and some keys and screws.
   
   Remove the old handle by backing out the 2 Philips screws on the
   room side. Once the screws are out pull the knob to you and it
   should come right out. You may have to shake it a little but it is 
   loose now.
   
   Next pull the other knob out of the striker assembly. The strike
   assembly has 2 short Philips in it on the edge of the door. Take
   them out and pull the assembly out. It's often easiest to get hold
   of the lever from inside the opening where the knobs came off.
   
   When you go for the replacement set, make sure to know how thick the
   door is. It can make a difference.
   
   To install, put the strike lever in first, followed by the knob with
   the key set in it. That half of the knob has to go in first
   
   Finally the knob with the twisting lock in it. This can cause you to
   preach a sermon sometimes because the rod from the lock has to line
   up with the part that twists. The rod has a flat side to it, and I
   don't think you can touch the part that twists to see how it is
   lined up. I know my fingers are too big.
   
   What you can do is fit them together before putting either one in
   the door to see what direction they line up. Use that as a reference
   for the final step. Now put in the 2 long Philips screws and try it out.
   
   - Original Message -
   From: Kevin Doucet
   To: 
   
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 10:24 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] door nob question
   
   Hi list,
   
   I want to secure the master bed room as this is the room I want to
   keep my fire arms collection in while I have a gathering. What is
   involved in removing the current door nob and replacing it with a
   door nob with a key lock?
   
   Thanks
   
   Kevin Doucet
   mailto:contactme%40kevindoucet.commailto:contactme%40kevindoucet 
   .comcontac...@kevindoucet.com
   
   confuse as says
   
   Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!
   
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
   
   
   
   
   __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
   signature database 3881 (20090223) __
   
   The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
   
   http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com
  
  Thanks.
  
  Kevin Doucet
  mailto:contactme%40kevindoucet.comcontac...@kevindoucet.com
  
  confuse as says
  
  Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!
  
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  
  
  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
  signature database 3882 (20090223) __
  
  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
  
  http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com

  Thanks.

  Kevin Doucet
  contac...@kevindoucet.com

  confuse as says

  Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!


  


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] not giving cuts the finger

2009-02-24 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Tom and others,
There is also something in a spray can, but I can't recall the name of it.  
Maybe something like liquid bandage.
Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 1:59 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] not giving cuts the finger


  when I worked in the violin shop many years ago, I'd
  occasionally get nicked by a chisel or the like when doing fine trim work.
  There was just no way to keep track of where i was cutting than to keep 
  a finger from the other hand in the way. I never get so casual with
  p[ower tools. I used to use a product called New Skin instead
  of bandaids, I don't know if it's still available, and have no idea if it's
  actually safe, but it's probably some kind of plastic dissolved in alcohol
  with a brush applicator in the top of a small bottle. It burns like H---
  when it hits the open cut, but then you know you've applied it where it
  s
  needed. If applied over and around the cut pretty well, it forms a coating
  that keeps the cut closed and clean, assuming you wash first, for maybea day.

  At least you don't have a messy bandaid comming off and getting caught up 
  in things.

  tom Fowle


  


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Majestic Ice Melt

2008-12-25 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Another thought about ice melt,
I have been using flakes in stead of pellets.  It is believed that the 
flakes are less likely to get stuck between the dogs pads.
Art
- Original Message - 
From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net
To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 4:49 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Majestic Ice Melt


I don't remember who ask me what pet friendly ice melt I was using. A
 neighbor purchased a bag at the same time as me. He kept the packageing 
 and
 it is Majestic Ice Melt.

 We purchased it last year at Lowes for around $13. Here is the description
 from the manufacturer.





 Majestic Ice Melt is...

 Extraordinarily effective

  a.. Contains calcium magnesium acetate, the most desirable de-icing agent
 on the market
  b.. Controls the freeze-thaw cycle with time-release formulas that stay 
 on
 the surface area longer.
 Anti-corrisive

  a.. Creates a bond between the surface area and the elements to protect
 agains corrosion and spalling.
  b.. Protects your surface, including interlocking pavers.
 Cost and time efficient

  a.. Works longer, reducing the need for repeated applications
  b.. Works better, reducing the volume of product needed for a single
 application.
  c.. Cuts down on corrosive damage to property, vehicles and equipment
 Safer than rock salt

  a.. Will not harm children, pets or plants; biodegradable
  b.. Includes Dolomite, providing additional traction control
  c.. No slimy residue results in minimal tracking on floors and carpets
 ---
 Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
 with many resources for the blind.
 http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
 Lenny


 

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Members At The Following address:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A lesson on compression fittings

2008-11-24 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Using compression unions on a brake line is very dangerous.  
You are playing with peoples lives when you use a compression union on a brake 
line. 
Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 1:58 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A lesson on compression fittings


  I've used them on trans lines many times. Especially when some idiot thinks 
he was supposed to do push ups on the end of a wrench to make the line tight. 
Of course I've spliced transmission lines with neoprene hose too and it worked 
fine. But when you use compression unions on a brake line and it doesn't leak 
you know you either did something right or got lucky...

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 11:37 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] A lesson on compression fittings

  I used one of those puppies on a cracked trans cooling line running from the
  trans cooler to the high pressure side. I installed one of those compression
  fitting things strictly as an emergency get us home repair that lasted for
  at least the two years the car's owner and I were dating.
  Word to the wise... Never take a Pontiac trans AM off road to look for a
  camp site.
  I had a tubing cutter in my run-box and we found a good Samaritan to take me
  into the nearest town for peaces.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 9:10 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A lesson on compression fittings

  On water pipe all you need to do is cut the end smooth and make sure there
  are no burs. Take a piece of emery cloth and polish the pipe slightly to
  make sure it's clean. Then slide the nut and compression ferrule on the
  pipe. The pipe will then fit inside the elbow or T or shut off and bottom
  out. Once it bottoms out, put on your wrench or vice grip or what ever you
  want to hold the thing still. Then sliding the nut toward the threads will
  move the ferrule into place as well. I like to use some pipe dope on the
  threads and get the threads started by hand. All that is left once it is
  hand tight is to hold the fitting and tighten the nut. It doesn't take lots
  of effort or you run the risk of collapsing the pipe. 

  The only thing to be real sure of is that the end of the pipe fits inside
  the fitting or you will collapse or crush the end and it won't seal. I
  suspect this is what causes those that complain about compression fittings
  to complain. When done right, it will compress the pipe slightly under the
  ferrule leaving the quarter inch or so of the end the same size it was when
  you started. 

  I've only used one of the Shark Bights and I feel a lot more secure using a
  compression fitting. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 8:54 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  Bob,

  Are you using a double flair male end on copper water pipe?
  How in the world do you seat it?
  are you using those male and female fittings the screw together with the
  little farrel thingy that if you are real lucky collapses and seals the
  joint?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 4:29 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  No I've used them since my days in the automotive field. I'm pretty sure
  if
  you can put a fitting in place that seals against brake fluid pressure
  you'd
  have nothing to worry about with 90 or so pounds of water pressure. 

  However, the average want to be handy person that doesn't even own a
  wrench
  is going to look at working 2 wrenches together as very challenging
  compared
  to Just slide the 2 ends together. Markets are driven by what sells, not
  what works better. And far be it from most sales people to tell you which
  is better. In this case far be it from most sales people to even know if
  they work because most don't do the type of work they are selling parts to
  fix...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 6:22 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  Bob,

  That is interesting. I never found where compression fittings were all
  that
  difficult to work with, did you?

  Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:38 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  I'm a big fan of compression fittings but 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electrical Outlet strips?

2008-10-15 Thread Arthur Rizzino
The unit that Bob described sometimes they might be called a power 
management system or center.
Art
- Original Message - 
From: chiliblindman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 8:52 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electrical Outlet strips?


 Nancy I have one for each of my computers.  The one in front of me now has 
 a
 master switch which turns all off except one outlet.  It also has 5 other
 switches that control 1 outlet each.  I can turn on and off any of 5 at 
 will
 or turn all 5 on or off with the master switch.  One outlet stay on all 
 the
 time.  Mine is called a data shield.  My other ones are other brands, so
 they are available.
 ..bob


 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys

2008-08-14 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Lenny,
not evenly torqueing the lug nuts will cause rotors to warp.  Not saying 
this is your problem but thought I would put that thought out.
Art

- Original Message - 
From: Lenny McHugh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 6:43 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys


 We have a 2003 grand caravan sport all wheel drive. Two weeks ago for
 inspection it needed breaks at the same time I upgraded the break fluid to
 dot 5.1 and also had the tires rotated.
 Now about 45 mph when Karen applies the break she can feel a chatter or
 vibration. When she first said it was shaking at that speed I thought she
 lost a balancing weight. I now suspect rotors. Is there anything that can
 cause a rotor go bad after about two weeks after installing new breaks? 
 The
 vehicle has about 40,000 miles and the rotors were cut around 25,000 
 miles.
 Got to get this thing fixed quickly, next week we are taking my grandson 
 to
 Canada to see the falls.
 Lenny


 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys

2008-08-14 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Lenny,
If the rotors are warped, the bad news is that the pads are now garbage.  One 
should not put used pads with new or turned rotors.
Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 9:28 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys


  Lenny,
  Let them know in a nice way that you are aware of the minimum federally
  allowed thickness for a brake rotor and yours better not be there.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
  Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 7:17 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys

  The tires were rotated and balanced. Karen just told me that it is now doing

  it at a lower speed 25 mph. Monday it goes to a garage
  - Original Message - 
  From: allen dunbar [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 7:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys

  hi blenny when you installed your brakes did you rotate and balance the
  tires I had a similar problem and that along with a front end alignment took
  care of the vibrations now she is smooth

  now there's your weekend project

  good luck

  Allen
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 5:43 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys

   We have a 2003 grand caravan sport all wheel drive. Two weeks ago for 
   inspection it needed breaks at the same time I upgraded the break 
   fluid to dot 5.1 and also had the tires rotated. Now about 45 mph when 
   Karen applies the break she can feel a chatter or vibration. When she 
   first said it was shaking at that speed I thought she lost a balancing 
   weight. I now suspect rotors. Is there anything that can cause a rotor 
   go bad after about two weeks after installing new breaks? The
   vehicle has about 40,000 miles and the rotors were cut around 25,000
   miles.
   Got to get this thing fixed quickly, next week we are taking my grandson
   to
   Canada to see the falls.
   Lenny
  
  
   
  
   Send any questions regarding list management to: 
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   view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
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   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. 
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  List Members At The 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Stair climbing handtrucks.

2008-08-12 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Hi Dan,
You might want to look at Gleason Industries or Milwaukee hand trucks.  I 
believe that Gleason is the manufacture of my appliance hand truck.
It has about 8 inch solid rubber wheels and on the lower part of the back there 
are two what look like v belts around an 8 inch high fixture that has rollers 
to help the belts.
The plate at the bottom is smaller than regular hand trucks since you only 
catch the bottom edge of the appliance.
It also has a strap that is used to secure the appliance to the cart.  Some 
carts have two straps.
It is about 60 inches tall and also has handles on the sides.
Before I bought my own, I used to rent one from a local privately owned true 
value hardware store in Bridgeville.

Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 12:44 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Stair climbing handtrucks.


  Does anyone know of a really good stair climbing dolly / handtruck? I 
  don't want one with crappy plastic skids on the back. I saw one that had 
  two half inch wide rubber belts on the back that looped over a 
  non-rotating pulley thing. That looked pretty useless as well.

  I mean, a stair climber with treads on the back. Possibly treads that 
  maybe fold out a bit so that you don't have to lay the whole thing flat 
  down on the stairs and then double yourself in half to try and grab the 
  handle which is now on the steps. I am looking at www.handtrucks.com but 
  the descriptions don't seem to be helping me.

  Just wondering if anyone knows something.

  Thanks.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery Charging Experiment

2008-08-06 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Ray and others on the list,
don't some chargers start charging automatically as soon as a battery is placed 
in them?  Then they will charge for a short fixed amount of time or charge 
until charge complete indication is met?
Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ray Boyce 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 11:04 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Battery Charging Experiment


  Hi All

  I have two 7 Volts battery chargers, one brand new which I have never used
  before and one I have had for many years.

  I decided to charge two 7 Volt batteries up at the same time and used my
  light probe to tell me both red lights were on , then went and washed my
  car.

  I checked after finishing my car and both light were of indicating the
  charging was complete.

  I then swapped the batteries over and both lights came on and started
  charging again.

  I then had lunch and went and checked again and both lights were off and
  both batteries were warm indicating they had been charged.

  I then swapped the batteries over again and this time only the battery in
  the new charger came on indicating a charge was taking place.

  My question is if the lights go off on the first charge indicating a full
  charge has taken place, why after swapping them around does the chargers
  start charging them again.

  It seems that although the lights go off the batteries do not have a
  complete charge in them.

  What is your view on what is happening.

  Ray 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Brake Fluid Loss

2008-07-17 Thread Arthur Rizzino
tom,
I wonder the same as Larry.  I don't know if it is possible with a ford but I 
believe that is a good place to start.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 7:00 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Brake Fluid Loss


  Tom,

  Is it possible that the diaphragm in the power brake booster has a vacuum
  leak and that fluid leaking from the primary piston in the master cylinder
  is being consumed by the motor?
  You might try pulling the vacuum line from the brake booster housing and see
  if you can find anything.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Tom Hodges
  Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 4:50 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Brake Fluid Loss

  I have a 2001 Ford Winstar van. About every two weeks, I have to add an
  ounce or two of brake fluid to the master cylinder. I replaced the front
  disk brake pads and rotors, and the back brake shoes and brake cylinder kits
  about a year ago and a recent check shows that none of these are leaking.
  The backing plate where the brake lines are connected at all wheels are dry
  with no signs of leakage, and yet I'm losing fluid. Also, when we move the
  van and look under, there isn't a drop of brake fluid anywhere on the ground
  where we always park the car. I can also see no signs of leakage around the
  master cylinder on the firewall.

  I can see losing a little bit of fluid over a period of time, but not this
  amount. Anybody have any idea where this break fluid is going?

  Thanks,

  Tom

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] refrigerant

2008-07-15 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Hi Robert,
I believe in most places one needs to have a license to purchase refrigerant.  
If the freezer is low on refrigerant that means that you have a leak somewhere. 
 That leak needs to be repaired or you will be throwing money away because it 
will leak out also.  
If air is mixed with refrigerant the freezer will not operate correctly.
Once the leak is fixed the freezer will need to be evacuated with a vacuum pump 
before filling with refrigerant and possibly some oil for the compressor.

Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert Riddle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 7:36 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] refrigerant


  Our freezer died. I think it probably needs a refill on refrigerant. Where 
does one go to get refrigerant these days?

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] tightening oil filters

2008-07-15 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Hi John,
Make sure that the oil filter mating surface is clean of dirt and old gasket 
material before installing the new one.
Prefill the filter with oil as much as you can.  If the filter mounts on an 
angle then you shouldn't fill it up because it will lose oil during the 
installation process.  When filling the filter, note that oil will soak in to 
the filter material slowly and you might need to add oil a few times before it 
is full.
Put some oil on the gasket to help it slip when tightening.
Spin the oil filter on and only tighten by hand.  Make sure it is on good but 
if you over tighten during installation you probably cause yourself or someone 
else much problems in the future.

Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Schwery 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 5:58 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tightening oil filters


  When putting on an oil filter in a car, should the filter be 
  tightened with a filter wrench or by hand?

  John



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fuel Line Stuck

2008-07-15 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Hi Paul
I have two different tools called hose hooks that I use for loosening hoses.  
It is similar to a screwdriver but the shank has a bend or bends in it and a 
point on the end.  One slowly works the point under the hose then work it 
around under the hose.  You need to be careful not to poke the point through 
the hose.
My particular hose hooks are from snap-on but other tool companies sell them 
too.
If these hoses are old it might not be worth attempting to save them.
Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Franklin 
  To: blindhandyman@ yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 10:40 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Fuel Line Stuck


  Does anyone have any tips for detaching a flexible fuel line which is stuck 
  on to a fuel filter? I am trying to start an old tractor which has been 
  parked out in the weeds for the last couple of years. Either the fuel 
  filter is clogged or I will need to replace the fuel pump. In any case I 
  will need to slip the fuel line off of several fuel system components. 
  After slipping back the clamps I have tried pulling and twisting the fuel 
  line without any success. I would like to break the connection without 
  having to replace the fuel line. Any ideas or tips will be appreciated.

  Paul Franklin



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Water witching (dowsing) works!

2008-06-30 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Regarding locating water under ground I have used copper rods and it helped 
that the water you are looking for is moving.  When you walk over the moving 
water both rods will point in the same direction, indicating direction of 
flow if I remember correctly since it has been a while since I have done 
this.
Art
- Original Message - 
From: Lenny McHugh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 10:08 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Water witching (dowsing) works!


 Hi Jennifer,
 Reading the posts about the drain problem I remembered something that a
 friend did many years ago. He had a similar problem with a blockked drain
 line and they could not figure how the line ran. I remembered that he used
 two welding rods walking around his basement. When he broke the concrete 
 and
 dug where the rods indicated, he was within 6 inches of the drain line. If
 this would work I think that a blind individual would be even better at it
 because of your sense of touch. I would think that you would detect slight
 movement of the rods. Anyway I am the true skeptic and thought that Chet 
 was
 just lucky. I looked around the net and found  the following article. If 
 it
 would help you locate the drain lines it would be fantastic. If it doesn't
 work your family will have something to talk about for a long time to 
 come.

 http://sepwww.stanford.edu/sep/jon/dowsing.html

 Lenny


 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Water witching (dowsing) works!

2008-06-30 Thread Arthur Rizzino
another comment on Water witching I also have use a tree branch to locate 
underground water.  Both my father and I used to be able to do this.  almost 
30 years ago we both pick the same spot where we had the water well drilled. 
When he asked me to see what I could find I was drawn to the same spot twice 
he told me.  Unknown to me he marked the spot.
Art
- Original Message - 
From: Arthur Rizzino [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Water witching (dowsing) works!


 Regarding locating water under ground I have used copper rods and it 
 helped
 that the water you are looking for is moving.  When you walk over the 
 moving
 water both rods will point in the same direction, indicating direction of
 flow if I remember correctly since it has been a while since I have done
 this.
 Art
 - Original Message - 
 From: Lenny McHugh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 10:08 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Water witching (dowsing) works!


 Hi Jennifer,
 Reading the posts about the drain problem I remembered something that a
 friend did many years ago. He had a similar problem with a blockked drain
 line and they could not figure how the line ran. I remembered that he 
 used
 two welding rods walking around his basement. When he broke the concrete
 and
 dug where the rods indicated, he was within 6 inches of the drain line. 
 If
 this would work I think that a blind individual would be even better at 
 it
 because of your sense of touch. I would think that you would detect 
 slight
 movement of the rods. Anyway I am the true skeptic and thought that Chet
 was
 just lucky. I looked around the net and found  the following article. If
 it
 would help you locate the drain lines it would be fantastic. If it 
 doesn't
 work your family will have something to talk about for a long time to
 come.

 http://sepwww.stanford.edu/sep/jon/dowsing.html

 Lenny


 

 Send any questions regarding list management to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
 Or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
 List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

 Visit the archives page at the following address
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 list just send a blank message to:
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 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 Or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
 List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

 Visit the archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

 If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
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Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to tell if you need new shock absorbers

2008-06-27 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Also worn shock absorbers will cause abnormal tire wear. 
Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ray Boyce 
  To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 11:47 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How to tell if you need new shock absorbers


  Most people don't realise their vehicle needs new shocks until they get much
  worse. The wear is usually so gradual that we become accustomed to how our
  vehicle drives and take it for normal. Every now and then I see another
  vehicle on my travels that is slowly floating up and down as it travels down
  the smooth highway. The driver seems totally unaware of the vehicle's motion
  but this vehicle has badly worn shocks. 

  Struts (MacPherson Struts), used on many cars are a larger version of a
  shock absorber. Struts have a shaft in them about the diameter of a large
  thumb because the strut has the job of holding the suspension upright. Shock
  absorbers have a shaft about the size of your little finger and are only
  used to control suspension movement. Struts can wear the same as shocks but
  usually last longer because of their larger surface areas on the shaft and
  internal parts to accommodate the wear. 

  So how do you know when it is time to replace your shocks or struts? Let the
  handling of the vehicle tell you. The typical test is to push down with all
  your body weight on one corner of your vehicle at a time and quickly jump
  off. The vehicle should rise, go down slightly and then return to its normal
  height. If the vehicle bounces more than this, then the shock or strut is
  worn. The trouble with this test is it only checks for severely worn units. 

  Most of our driving is done on relatively smooth road surfaces. The
  suspension is moving up and down only a small amount so all the wear in a
  shock or strut is concentrated in that small area. Hit a bigger bump and the
  shock moves to an unworn part of its travel and seems to work fairly well.
  It is the smaller bumps that need improved control. To check for wear in
  this small range of travel, you have to become aware of your vehicle's
  handling. 

  Because I test drive many new vehicles, I am used to the feeling of good
  shock control. Worn shocks become much more obvious. If you are driving the
  same vehicle every day, then you need to take a critical assessment of your
  vehicle's ride and handling over small bumps to determine how good your
  shocks are working. If your vehicle skitters a little bit or gives an extra
  little bounce when hitting a small bump, then you are soon ready for new
  shocks. 

  Shocks (and struts) control suspension movement by regulating the flow of
  oil through small orifices in pistons inside the body of the shock. When you
  open a door with an automatic closer, you are using the same type of
  control. The door opens easily but closes slowly. For suspensions, the shock
  allows the wheel to move upwards quickly as it hits a bump but lets it
  return to the normal ride position slowly so the vehicle doesn't bounce. 



  Heavy duty shocks and struts use larger internal parts for better control,
  while gas-filled shocks and struts use gas pressure inside the shock to
  prevent the oil from foaming. Foamed oil passes through the orifices inside
  the shock without any damping effect, so it acts like a badly worn out
  shock. I always recommend heavy duty shocks as a minimum. If you drive a
  performance vehicle or drive on washboard roads or rough off road surfaces,
  you could benefit from the extra control that gas-filled shocks provide. 

  Some vehicles have variable ride control. There may be normal, touring and
  sport modes. These vehicles use shocks or struts with adjustable valving
  inside the shocks. Many use a small motor on the top of the shock or strut
  that turns a rod down the centre of the shock shaft to vary the size of the
  internal orifices. Other vehicles use a solenoid to change the size of the
  orifice, while a few GM vehicles now have MagnaRide shocks that use magnetic
  fluid and electro-magnets to control the viscosity of the oil. All these
  systems provide greater ride comfort and control but replacement shocks can
  be very expensive! 

  Shocks do much more than give us a smooth ride. They are a critical part of
  the suspension control. A vehicle with poor shocks can be dangerous to
  drive. It may seem fine until you need to panic brake and hit a bump or need
  to make a sudden swerve to avoid something. Then the vehicle may go out of
  control. Next to better tires, new shocks will make the most significant
  difference in your vehicle's ride and handling. If you find it is time to
  replace them, buy the heavy duty or gas-filled units. This is one area when
  the extra cost is worth it. 

  Jim Kerr is a master automotive mechanic and teaches automotive technology.
  He has been writing automotive articles for fifteen years for newspapers and
  magazines in Canada and the United States, 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries and nomail

2008-06-25 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Hi Matt,
I am not familiar with golf cart batteries, but if they are similar to car or 
truck batteries I highly recommend that you do not put axel grease to grease 
the battery cables and terminals.  If the batteries and connections were to get 
hot the grease could ooze between the connections and act as an insulator 
interfering with a good connection.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Matt 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 3:11 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] batteries and nomail


  Hi ya,
  First off, do I need to clean the batteries of my golf cart?
  They seem to get lots of grease and dust on them, but I don't know if it 
would be necessary or worth it to clean them off, or what to use to do this 
with if I did.
  I scrape the posts and cables ever once in a while and use axel grease to 
greaze them up again.
  Also, how do I set the list to nomail?
  or what is the address I write to to do this at least.
  Kind of overwelmmed just now and don't want to out and out unsub.

  Thanks,

  Matt

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] faucet help

2008-06-19 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Yes I saw your earlier message on the list.
I hope someone does know where such a faucet can be found because I would like 
to find one myself.
Art

  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 4:58 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] faucet help


  Hi I need help finding a faucet.
  It is sink mounted and is fed by the 1/4 or 3/8 flex tubig from my 
  water purifier system.
  The one that is there now has served for 18 years and has broken. Luckily 
  it is a spring loaded device that shuts off automatically.
  It was a thumb press type.
  Does anyone know where I might find a replacement?
  i can give more details.
  I thought I wrote to list, but can't see my message anywhere.
  Anyone see it before?
  Thanks


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] OT: OT: Dish TV Question?

2008-06-18 Thread Arthur Rizzino
Claudia
Here are two quick suggestions that I have for your Dish Network problem.
When you are holding the remote with the flat skinnier end away from you try 
pressing the top left most button.  Some times this gets are remotes back on 
track.On our remotes the second row down second button over turns the box on 
and off (this button is a little taller than others around it).  the second row 
down third button over turns the TB on and off.
Another possible thing you can try is to hold the power button on the Dish 
Network box in for 10 to 20 seconds to reset the box.  After you do this it 
might take two minutes before the box starts working again.
Good luck,
Art

  - Original Message - 
  From: Claudia 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Cc: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 6:12 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] OT: OT: Dish TV Question?


  Hi All,

  I have Dish network, and my remote doesn't work.
  Is there a way for me to reprogram it, without having to have Dish come out 
  and do it for me?
  I'm assuming they would charge me for it!

  I've already changed the batteries on the remote, so I know that's not the 
  issue! There is no sound; I can't change channels, and I haven't been able 
  to power the set on and off with the remote for a few days now, or turn the 
  volume up or down.
  Claudia

  Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while 
  the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   

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