Re: [BlindHandyMan] leaky skylight
has he tryed scilacone sealant or the sealor you around your bath? - Original Message - From: "brice mijares" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 12:58 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] leaky skylight > I'm posting this for a friend. He has a leaky skylight and he's always > having to deal with this problem after first rain, and sometimes more than > once through winter. The skylight is located on one of these additions > that > you can add to your patio, it's mostly made of light sheet metal. It's > not > under warranty any longer, so it's his problem. Can anyone help him with > his problem. Thanks in advance. > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml > > Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From > Various List Members At The Following Address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ > Visit the new archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following Address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the new archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] coil power
a nice teaching tool i think or tortcher?"! - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 3:26 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] coil power Hi, I at one time used my naberhood kids to test and see if the coil had power but after a wile they got wised to me about holding on to the wire wile I pulled the rope... ROB - Original Message - From: Geoff Eden To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 1:03 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] coil power It's just a fish story. Geoff - Original Message - From: Robert J. Moore To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:13 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] coil power Jeff this one kind of sounds tung in cheek. Is this a bonified tip and have you put this one to the test. If this works I thbink I will have my Wife get a fish from the store and try this on a coil that I know works. sounds like great fun. So will the fish survive? if so then I can use it to test more than one coil. If you have read my posts in the past you know that I really am that cheep ha ha ha [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tonight.
can you tel me how i get in to the room? you hav'nt stated an http or adress - Original Message - From: Phil Parr To: blind like me Cc: list handy Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 9:47 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tonight. As a general rule some of us gather in the blind handyman room over at for the people on Friday nights and shoot the breeze for a while. If you never have attended well, it is kind of like the Houston thing. I guarantee you won't learn much but you might enjoy the conversation and general chatter. See you tonight, around nine eastern, Phil Parr. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] trimming
chears - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2006 1:13 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] trimming Sorry Carl, by laminated I just meant boards stuck together. If you will use a circular saw then the easiest way to trim the ends off flush would be to clamp a straight stick across the panel squaring it up with a good square. Use the same edge to guide the square for lining up both ends so they will be both square to at least one edge. You then just run the circular saw along the stick keeping the edge of the shoe against that straight edge. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: "carl hickson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 7:38 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] trimming > hi i am not using lamonated panels i was thinking about a trim saw or a > small circlur saw cordles > - Original Message - > From: Dale Leavens > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 2:46 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] trimming > > > Hi Carl, > > What sort of saw did you have in mind for cutting the ends off? I > made a panel cutter jig to work in the miter slot of my table saw for > that > purpose but if you don't want to use or don't have such a saw then > perhaps > you would prefer just to clamp a board at right angles to the edge of the > panel then use it to guide you with a hand saw or a circular saw if that > is > available. You will want a very good carpenters square or something > equivalent, a piece of sheet goods like a half inch bit of suitably sized > plywood using the factory corner edges so you can line one up with the > edge > of your laminated panel and use the adjacent factory edge as your guide > will > also work well > > If you have a good stiff back saw and some patients just slide the saw up > tight against the straight edge with all of the teeth on the surface of > your > work piece and begin the cut running fully horizontal across the face of > the > work at least until you are into the work piece some distance. This will > keep you from damaging the guide board so it will live to serve another > day.It is a very slow and therefore tedious way to make your way through > even very soft wood though. > > Another rather wonderful way to get a very good edge at right angles to > the > surface is to use a router guided by a straight edge. This won't work if > the > table top is really thick but I have a pattern cutting bit an inch and a > half long with a pilot bearing on the near end which works really slick. > > Hope this gives you some ideas. > > Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Skype DaleLeavens > Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. > > - Original Message - > From: "carl hickson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 6:04 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] trimming > > > hi folks i like makeing tables useing planks but jointed and clamped > tight > > but i need to trim the end of the board off to make it neat but don't > one > > a power saw i hav thort about a trim saw > > can you recomend something pleas > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > > or > > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > > > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. > > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml > > > > Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From > > Various List Members At The Following Address: > > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ > > Visit the new archives page at the following address > > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > > list just send a blank message to: > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > No virus foun
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Building a Driveway, Points to Consider
is thair an easya way? lol - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 9:13 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Building a Driveway, Points to Consider Hi Follow these steps to build a beautiful driveway from any material. Brick drivewayA well constructed driveway should provide reliable service for at least two decades. Driveway durability depends on creating a strong, level, well-drained surface, through constructing a proper sub-base then laying suitable surface materials. Before you start Source, brief and schedule contractors, labourers or equipment suppliers. Ensure you have the necessary access routes for delivery of materials and heavy equipment such as concrete mixers and trucks. If necessary organise council permits for skip hire, parking and access. Warn neighbours of possible noise, dust and minor traffic disruption while work's in progress. If sourcing your own materials, tools and equipment, consult experts to check they're suitable, and ensure you buy enough material to fill and cover the driveway sub-base and surface adequately. Check that materials and hire equipment can be delivered in time - delays can be costly. Excavation and sub-base To ensure the construction of a sound, durable driveway, it's crucial these steps are followed: Break up and remove (or if resurfacing, repair) old concrete/paving and excavate to a depth of around 100 mm, (depth depends on the surfacing material selected). Create a sound sub-base. To guarantee support and ensure a level basecourse, around 15cm of roadbase or blue-metal is added to the subgrade (the driveway base that remains after excavation), then levelled and compacted with a vibrating plate compactor. Similar preparation is required for paver, brick, concrete rock or bituminous concrete driveways. For paved driveways, builders' sand may be used as a basecourse on top of levelled, compacted earth and/or roadbase. Otherwise, add two coats of bituminous emulsion (aka cold seal tar) separated by a layer of gravel, then a final layer of blue metal (non dust-generating) gravel before adding concrete or asphalt. Ensure proper driveway drainage. At no point should your driveway drain towards the house. You'll generally need to install a drainage system with a pre-cast concrete pit or sump covered by a removable grate with a short plastic pipe to transport water from the pit to the nearest stormwater drain. Brick paving Brick driveways are generally laid on builders' sand in an interlocking pattern such as herringbone at 45 or 90 degrees, to protect against shunting. Good results depend on careful preparation and attention to detail - having a solid, level basecourse, meticulous cutting, measuring and laying. With practical skills and patience, you can save labour costs by laying the bricks yourself. For detailed advice, consult a bricklayer or large DIY store. Stone pavers Are best laid on a properly prepared sub-base, embedded in at least 100mm of concrete or roadbase (up to 150mm for softer stone pavers such as sandstone, travertine or reconstituted limestone). Pavers are topped with cement sand, compacted and then sealed with high-quality sealer. Concrete Concrete must be mixed, poured, screed (leveled), stenciled if required (see below), left to dry, then sealed as necessary. Note that concrete needs to include joint expansions to control the placement of inevitable cracks over time. For coloured concrete, an oxide is added to the mix before pouring (organise this in advance). Allow a week before driving on the surface. Asphalt Asphalt is poured onto a standard sub-base, then compacted. It can also be applied over concrete or re-applied over existing asphalt (resurfacing). Note that resurfacing over shoddy, cracked concrete or asphalt is likely to crack within a year or so. Heavy equipment access is required. StreetPrint This is a patented reheating process applied to new or existing asphalt to fortify, imprint and colour-coat it to replicate brick pavers. Choose your patterns/colours (custom-matched if required) in advance. Duratherm technology uses StreetPrint's inlay process. Both must be done by StreetPrint contractors, who'll require access for equipment. It's quick to apply but needs some time to dry. Concrete stenciling This is applied on wet, screed concrete, generally by two people working fast. Your desired pattern - simulated slate, crazy paving, cobblestone, brick etc - is printed using paper stencils and a colour hardener, then left 48 hours to dry before applying high-grade sealer (reapplied every two years). Remember not to create too smooth a surface or the concrete may be slippery. Pebble or scoria/gravel These types of driveways, an
[BlindHandyMan] moddleing
hi i am thinking about starting makeing moddle buildings for my moddle train set i am running 00 guage or ho guage in the usa and am wantingk some pointers reguarding tools and materials can some one help pleas yours carl [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] miner complante
can some one explane why i get a duplocate or some times a triplocate coppy of any mesage i send into this group? yours carl [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] recessed light adapter?
- Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 5:21 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] recessed light adapter? > Home Depot has none..they said they do not exist...and said I should buy > track lighting > > > > -Original Message- > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > On Behalf Of Rob Monitor > Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 11:12 PM > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] recessed light adapter? > > HI, Years ago I had a swivel screw in socket that did just what you > want, > the only thing I could tell you to do is look in a place like Home depot > or > a good old fashion hardware store for one... >ROB > - Original Message - > From: Robert J. Moore > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 9:59 PM > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] recessed light adapter? > > > I don't know about any thing that would swivel but you can get an adapter > that screws into the light socket and has slots on the side for plugging > in > an extention cord and on the end facing away from the light socket is > threads to put in a light bulb. this would extend the light out a couple > of > inches. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml > > Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From > Various List Members At The Following Address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ > Visit the new archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list > just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > -- > Hello! No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.431 / Virus Database: 268.14.6/535 - Release Date: 11/15/2006 > 3:47 PM > > > -- > All systems go!...No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.431 / Virus Database: 268.14.6/535 - Release Date: 11/15/2006 > 3:47 PM > > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml > > Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From > Various List Members At The Following Address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ > Visit the new archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following Address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the new archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] miner complante
thanks i will look at it - Original Message - From: rj To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 10:57 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] miner complante It is usually some thing with your ISP - Original Message - From: carl hickson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 5:49 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] miner complante can some one explane why i get a duplocate or some times a triplocate coppy of any mesage i send into this group? yours carl [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] All bungged up!
u nice idear or prohaps you cud use some form of plyers but reverced so when you squeaze the handles the other end expands and remove the bung that way - Original Message - From: R & S Enterprises To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 11:20 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] All bungged up! Dale, For some reason a cork screw comes to mind.. I used one last weekend that had a couple of arms that stayed up until the screw was all the way in than were pried down against the neck of the bottle which reuslted in the cork being raised. The bung rim may not be right for this style, but maymaybe the old bolt could be pushed in and a regular corkscrew screwedd into the rubber and hopefully result on the pull being distrbuted throughout the cork or plug So it could be just pulled out. Of course next time a new bolt would be nedded and maybe not shove the thing in as far.. Ron - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 4:43 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] All bungged up! Hi, Looking for suggestions. I have a roller which you fill with water or sand for adding weight to roll out things like the lawn. I released the bung and tried to wiggle it out so I could get the water out of it in an effort to preserve it's round shape for next year. The rubber bung is a round rubber plug with a washer on each side and a bolt which runs through the middle and a wingnut so, when you tighten the wingnut it pulls the two washers together which thickens the rubber and it fits water tightly in the hole in the side of the drum. Well it wouldn't come out! I wiggled and jiggled and all it wanted to do was go in which, if it does, I will never again retrieve. This would not worry me all that much if a replacement was easily available but in the past, every time I go to my hardware store they inform me they are right out of stock as if they had just sold the last one minutes before my arrival. Not only that but they are expecting more on the next truck on Tuesday but without fail, some other needy bungger seems to get there before me but I digress. So, I put a small prybar on the wingnut musing as I tried wiggling the little beggar that pulling on the nut was pulling on the bolt which would be pulling on the washer inside the drum which would be expanding the stopper but I did it anyway. I was mistaken though, the wingnut was one of those pressed metal things and it decided to slide off of the threads instead, a consequence I had not anticipated. The wingnut now reposes probably in my neighbours yard somewhere over my shed where he will doubtless find it in the spring and wonder which of his devices it had been liberated from. I did grab the bolt with a small pair of channel locks so, in some way I still have hold of the rubber stopper and bolt and at least the inner washer and I have tried, with this hold to jiggle the rubber out of that hole including smearing Vaseline over it but, the fit seems to remain too tight. The hole appears to be maybe an inch and the bolt only a little longer than required but I am thinking I won't get it out of there unless I just melt it or burn it with a torch which really isn't useful, might as well leave it to rattle about inside there. Anyway, I thought I would put it out there on the list in case someone has; Either an idea to try or a source for bungs. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Delete test
whas thair any text in this measage? - Original Message - From: rj To: Handyman Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 9:58 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Delete test [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] miniture power tools
can any one advise me as to whair i can get miniture powertools from i am wanting to buld moddle buldings for my train set but don't want to spend a lot of money as it is a new venture and i don't kno if i'l take to it any help welcomed yours carl [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] All bungged up!
hav you tryed walshing up liquid or dry lube? - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 10:43 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] All bungged up! Hi, Looking for suggestions. I have a roller which you fill with water or sand for adding weight to roll out things like the lawn. I released the bung and tried to wiggle it out so I could get the water out of it in an effort to preserve it's round shape for next year. The rubber bung is a round rubber plug with a washer on each side and a bolt which runs through the middle and a wingnut so, when you tighten the wingnut it pulls the two washers together which thickens the rubber and it fits water tightly in the hole in the side of the drum. Well it wouldn't come out! I wiggled and jiggled and all it wanted to do was go in which, if it does, I will never again retrieve. This would not worry me all that much if a replacement was easily available but in the past, every time I go to my hardware store they inform me they are right out of stock as if they had just sold the last one minutes before my arrival. Not only that but they are expecting more on the next truck on Tuesday but without fail, some other needy bungger seems to get there before me but I digress. So, I put a small prybar on the wingnut musing as I tried wiggling the little beggar that pulling on the nut was pulling on the bolt which would be pulling on the washer inside the drum which would be expanding the stopper but I did it anyway. I was mistaken though, the wingnut was one of those pressed metal things and it decided to slide off of the threads instead, a consequence I had not anticipated. The wingnut now reposes probably in my neighbours yard somewhere over my shed where he will doubtless find it in the spring and wonder which of his devices it had been liberated from. I did grab the bolt with a small pair of channel locks so, in some way I still have hold of the rubber stopper and bolt and at least the inner washer and I have tried, with this hold to jiggle the rubber out of that hole including smearing Vaseline over it but, the fit seems to remain too tight. The hole appears to be maybe an inch and the bolt only a little longer than required but I am thinking I won't get it out of there unless I just melt it or burn it with a torch which really isn't useful, might as well leave it to rattle about inside there. Anyway, I thought I would put it out there on the list in case someone has; Either an idea to try or a source for bungs. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following Address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the new archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
