Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Well, my friend Dale Levens pretty well said it all but, just a couple of things. With a table saw you and probably a friend are moving a sheet of ply wood around. Unless you have a big room in witch to do this it is best done out of doors. Besides that you will need lots of extensions and maybe a table to support the ply wood as it is cut. A table saw is wonderful if you are working with smaller peaces of lumber inside of a shop. I would by both a circular or skill saw and a cheap table saw. Use the skill saw for reducing ply wood to a manageable size and then use the table saw when you need it. I have a cheap table saw I paid around 1 50$ for probably 10 years ago. One must go slow with it but it works. Phil Parr. - Original Message - From: Dale Alton To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 7:20 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Dale, great post. Can you talk a little about cutting dados? I've never really grasped how to get the right depth with a circular saw or table saw either. Thanks! Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: Dale Leavens[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/1/07 8:43:07 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi Dale, I had a table saw long before I finally got a circular saw however I did have a jig saw which I used a lot for reducing plywood and other sheet goods down to manageable sizes. Thing is that even with a very big and top end table saw, wrestling sheet goods, even relatively light ones like quarter inch plywood around on a table saw is not only difficult but does add significant injury risk. You can add infeed and outfeed tables if you have enough shop space but it is still damn difficult and although I did quite a bit of it as a younger man I don't much fancy it today. If you are likely to do a lot of cabinet work into the future or where you need a high degree of accuracy to finished panels the table saw is what you want. Excellent work of most types can be accomplished with a hand held circular saw and a little care. It becomes somewhat more difficult to reproduce a series of identical cuts than with the fence on a table saw but again using jigs or other measuring sticks and such it certainly can be done. One can even cut dados and rabbets with care but it is more difficult. One can of course buy both a decent circular saw and a router or two and still have a pretty good chunk of change from the price of a decent table saw. A table saw certainly can be used safely by the blind. There are different techniques depending on your confidence and skill complement of course. You may wish to use path finding techniques to ensure safety, knowing that the blade is always in the same place means if you need you can locate some safe part of the machine like the far right near edge of the wing and near rail of the fence then follow that back to the fence and down to the switch for example. If on the other hand you are a little more sure of yourself you might, as I usually end up doing, kick the power switch on with the toe of my shoe. My saw is a 1975 vintage with a standard light switch for power. Kicking it off while controlling work and waiting for the blade to spin down sometimes requires a little imagination. Modern machines usually have something like a recessed push button for on and a big square panel you can hit with about any body part to turn it off. The beauty of a table saw is that it is relatively easy to set the rip fence to a suitable distance with a ruler or what ever, even an already cut piece can be slid up against the blade and the fence slid up to it. Using a circular saw with a decent shop made jig can be quite accurate too provided it is the sort where the base comes out where the saw has cut it flush so you can tell exactly where the blade will cut. Otherwise you must include an offset to the edge of the shoe for aligning the guide as I have to do since I still haven't got around to making such a jig. I recently saw a jig designed for cross cutting with a pivot for locking in an angle. It is interesting in a way, I well remember observers goggling my makeshift jigs in some kind of wonder and now 30 years later they sell them in major department stores albeit rather more refined (and expensive) than the blind pioneered of necessity. Unless you expect to continue a vigorous hobby into the future I think I would hold off the table saw. You will always want a circular saw anyway. It is well worth while to buy a good quality one. This can be said of all tools and it is also true of a table saw only a decent table saw will cost in the range of 800 to 1000 dollars. A cheaper one will disappoint and you won't be wanting to use it a lot. If you really get into the work you will soon regret not having bought a better one and your money will be wasted. It may discourage you from continuing. You can get a darn good little 7 and a quarter inch circular saw for a hundred and fifty bucks or less, I really like my little Makita MAG model for about a hundred and twenty five, good quality, light, toolless blade change, it is available in right and left side blade and should remain accurate as it is a well made tool. Doubtless there will be other opinions, there are a lot of stamped steel table saws for a couple of hundred bucks out there and I don't intend to get into a debate on that. I have used them occasionally on a job site and they work well enough where 8th inch accuracy is adequate, light to shift onto the bed of a pickup truck and not a big loss if they get knocked around a bit but beyond construction carpentry I don't like or recommend them. I hope this is helpful. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Dale: Northern Dale has written a really definitive post here. I thought about buying a table or circ saw myself, and opted for the circ. From a practical standpoingnt, I have to do most cutting out of doors, and my shop is in the basement. That pretty much put the kibash on something as hard to move up and down stairs as a table saw. I finally bought a Skil HD77 because it has a worm gear drive and is pretty heavy. It can be a challenge waving it around, but if you hit a knott or bad spot, it doesn't buck as much as a lighter saw. The worm gear drive also makes it possible to use the saw where you need to apply water to the materiaal you're cutting if that's something you might be doing. There is a four-piece portable fence out there that extends to eight feet, and if I can ever get to the out-of-the-way hardware store to buy it, I'll provide the brand and model number. Good luck. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: Dale Alton[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/1/07 6:20:00 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
I can move my table saw up and down because it is a job site saw with fold and roll design. No, it isn't as good as a cabinet saw, but lack of money and space limited what I could get. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: Dale: Northern Dale has written a really definitive post here. I thought about buying a table or circ saw myself, and opted for the circ. From a practical standpoingnt, I have to do most cutting out of doors, and my shop is in the basement. That pretty much put the kibash on something as hard to move up and down stairs as a table saw. I finally bought a Skil HD77 because it has a worm gear drive and is pretty heavy. It can be a challenge waving it around, but if you hit a knott or bad spot, it doesn't buck as much as a lighter saw. The worm gear drive also makes it possible to use the saw where you need to apply water to the materiaal you're cutting if that's something you might be doing. There is a four-piece portable fence out there that extends to eight feet, and if I can ever get to the out-of-the-way hardware store to buy it, I'll provide the brand and model number. Good luck. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: Dale Altonmailto:dale%40mho.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/1/07 6:20:00 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Here is my two cents worth. If I had open work space of 18 by 12 feet in my shop and the money to pay for everything I needed, I'd plant me a table saw smack dab in the middle of it. Not having either of them, I purchased a circular saw. The nice thing about it, it is very portable and I can use it anywhere as it is cordless. I use my radio arm for most of my cutting projects but when I need to make larger cuts or working outside, I use the circular saw. I suppose, if you have the keg, you could always entise a friend to help feed your plywood through a table saw, just do the work first, smile! - Original Message - From: Dale Alton To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 4:20 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
John, I didn't know anything like that existed. What does something like that cost, and how heavy is it if you know? Thanks! Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwery[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 9:47:18 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table I can move my table saw up and down because it is a job site saw with fold and roll design. No, it isn't as good as a cabinet saw, but lack of money and space limited what I could get. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: Dale: Northern Dale has written a really definitive post here. I thought about buying a table or circ saw myself, and opted for the circ. From a practical standpoingnt, I have to do most cutting out of doors, and my shop is in the basement. That pretty much put the kibash on something as hard to move up and down stairs as a table saw. I finally bought a Skil HD77 because it has a worm gear drive and is pretty heavy. It can be a challenge waving it around, but if you hit a knott or bad spot, it doesn't buck as much as a lighter saw. The worm gear drive also makes it possible to use the saw where you need to apply water to the materiaal you're cutting if that's something you might be doing. There is a four-piece portable fence out there that extends to eight feet, and if I can ever get to the out-of-the-way hardware store to buy it, I'll provide the brand and model number. Good luck. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: Dale Altonmailto:dale%40mho.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/1/07 6:20:00 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Gee Larry That is exactly what I was thinking between reading your post and having read the post by Who was it again? I think it was dale. I would sure like to here that show. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Larry Stansifer Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 6:23 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Damn... Nicely said... Don their is your next BHM show . -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 8:43 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi Dale, I had a table saw long before I finally got a circular saw however I did have a jig saw which I used a lot for reducing plywood and other sheet goods down to manageable sizes. Thing is that even with a very big and top end table saw, wrestling sheet goods, even relatively light ones like quarter inch plywood around on a table saw is not only difficult but does add significant injury risk. You can add infeed and outfeed tables if you have enough shop space but it is still damn difficult and although I did quite a bit of it as a younger man I don't much fancy it today. If you are likely to do a lot of cabinet work into the future or where you need a high degree of accuracy to finished panels the table saw is what you want. Excellent work of most types can be accomplished with a hand held circular saw and a little care. It becomes somewhat more difficult to reproduce a series of identical cuts than with the fence on a table saw but again using jigs or other measuring sticks and such it certainly can be done. One can even cut dados and rabbets with care but it is more difficult. One can of course buy both a decent circular saw and a router or two and still have a pretty good chunk of change from the price of a decent table saw. A table saw certainly can be used safely by the blind. There are different techniques depending on your confidence and skill complement of course. You may wish to use path finding techniques to ensure safety, knowing that the blade is always in the same place means if you need you can locate some safe part of the machine like the far right near edge of the wing and near rail of the fence then follow that back to the fence and down to the switch for example. If on the other hand you are a little more sure of yourself you might, as I usually end up doing, kick the power switch on with the toe of my shoe. My saw is a 1975 vintage with a standard light switch for power. Kicking it off while controlling work and waiting for the blade to spin down sometimes requires a little imagination. Modern machines usually have something like a recessed push button for on and a big square panel you can hit with about any body part to turn it off. The beauty of a table saw is that it is relatively easy to set the rip fence to a suitable distance with a ruler or what ever, even an already cut piece can be slid up against the blade and the fence slid up to it. Using a circular saw with a decent shop made jig can be quite accurate too provided it is the sort where the base comes out where the saw has cut it flush so you can tell exactly where the blade will cut. Otherwise you must include an offset to the edge of the shoe for aligning the guide as I have to do since I still haven't got around to making such a jig. I recently saw a jig designed for cross cutting with a pivot for locking in an angle. It is interesting in a way, I well remember observers goggling my makeshift jigs in some kind of wonder and now 30 years later they sell them in major department stores albeit rather more refined (and expensive) than the blind pioneered of necessity. Unless you expect to continue a vigorous hobby into the future I think I would hold off the table saw. You will always want a circular saw anyway. It is well worth while to buy a good quality one. This can be said of all tools and it is also true of a table saw only a decent table saw will cost in the range of 800 to 1000 dollars. A cheaper one will disappoint and you won't be wanting to use it a lot. If you really get into the work you will soon regret not having bought a better one and your money will be wasted. It may discourage you from continuing. You can get a darn good little 7 and a quarter inch circular saw for a hundred and fifty bucks or less, I really like my little Makita MAG model for about a hundred and twenty five, good quality, light, toolless blade change, it is available in right and left side blade and should remain accurate as it is a well made tool. Doubtless there will be other opinions, there are a lot of stamped steel table saws for a couple of hundred bucks out there and I don't intend
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Bill, I bought the Hitachi c10fr for $200. It weighs about 40 pounds. The only thing I don't like about it is that the slots for the miter gauge are under sized slots, 5/16 by 5/8. The miter gauge is a good gauge with positive stops, 9 of them. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: John, I didn't know anything like that existed. What does something like that cost, and how heavy is it if you know? Thanks! Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 9:47:18 AM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table I can move my table saw up and down because it is a job site saw with fold and roll design. No, it isn't as good as a cabinet saw, but lack of money and space limited what I could get. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: Dale: Northern Dale has written a really definitive post here. I thought about buying a table or circ saw myself, and opted for the circ. From a practical standpoingnt, I have to do most cutting out of doors, and my shop is in the basement. That pretty much put the kibash on something as hard to move up and down stairs as a table saw. I finally bought a Skil HD77 because it has a worm gear drive and is pretty heavy. It can be a challenge waving it around, but if you hit a knott or bad spot, it doesn't buck as much as a lighter saw. The worm gear drive also makes it possible to use the saw where you need to apply water to the materiaal you're cutting if that's something you might be doing. There is a four-piece portable fence out there that extends to eight feet, and if I can ever get to the out-of-the-way hardware store to buy it, I'll provide the brand and model number. Good luck. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: Dale Altonmailto:dale%40mho.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/1/07 6:20:00 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Ya, and I don't even do wood except in fire-places. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 1:38 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Gee Larry That is exactly what I was thinking between reading your post and having read the post by Who was it again? I think it was dale. I would sure like to here that show. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Larry Stansifer Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 6:23 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Damn... Nicely said... Don their is your next BHM show . -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 8:43 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi Dale, I had a table saw long before I finally got a circular saw however I did have a jig saw which I used a lot for reducing plywood and other sheet goods down to manageable sizes. Thing is that even with a very big and top end table saw, wrestling sheet goods, even relatively light ones like quarter inch plywood around on a table saw is not only difficult but does add significant injury risk. You can add infeed and outfeed tables if you have enough shop space but it is still damn difficult and although I did quite a bit of it as a younger man I don't much fancy it today. If you are likely to do a lot of cabinet work into the future or where you need a high degree of accuracy to finished panels the table saw is what you want. Excellent work of most types can be accomplished with a hand held circular saw and a little care. It becomes somewhat more difficult to reproduce a series of identical cuts than with the fence on a table saw but again using jigs or other measuring sticks and such it certainly can be done. One can even cut dados and rabbets with care but it is more difficult. One can of course buy both a decent circular saw and a router or two and still have a pretty good chunk of change from the price of a decent table saw. A table saw certainly can be used safely by the blind. There are different techniques depending on your confidence and skill complement of course. You may wish to use path finding techniques to ensure safety, knowing that the blade is always in the same place means if you need you can locate some safe part of the machine like the far right near edge of the wing and near rail of the fence then follow that back to the fence and down to the switch for example. If on the other hand you are a little more sure of yourself you might, as I usually end up doing, kick the power switch on with the toe of my shoe. My saw is a 1975 vintage with a standard light switch for power. Kicking it off while controlling work and waiting for the blade to spin down sometimes requires a little imagination. Modern machines usually have something like a recessed push button for on and a big square panel you can hit with about any body part to turn it off. The beauty of a table saw is that it is relatively easy to set the rip fence to a suitable distance with a ruler or what ever, even an already cut piece can be slid up against the blade and the fence slid up to it. Using a circular saw with a decent shop made jig can be quite accurate too provided it is the sort where the base comes out where the saw has cut it flush so you can tell exactly where the blade will cut. Otherwise you must include an offset to the edge of the shoe for aligning the guide as I have to do since I still haven't got around to making such a jig. I recently saw a jig designed for cross cutting with a pivot for locking in an angle. It is interesting in a way, I well remember observers goggling my makeshift jigs in some kind of wonder and now 30 years later they sell them in major department stores albeit rather more refined (and expensive) than the blind pioneered of necessity. Unless you expect to continue a vigorous hobby into the future I think I would hold off the table saw. You will always want a circular saw anyway. It is well worth while to buy a good quality one. This can be said of all tools and it is also true of a table saw only a decent table saw will cost in the range of 800 to 1000 dollars. A cheaper one will disappoint and you won't be wanting to use it a lot. If you really get into the work you will soon regret not having bought a better one and your money will be wasted. It may discourage you from continuing. You can get a darn good little 7 and a quarter inch circular saw for a hundred and fifty bucks or less, I really like my little Makita MAG model for about a hundred and twenty five
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
John, thanks, and Xmas is coming right? Why is the size of the miter gauge slots important? Are there other tools or gauges that don't fit because of this? Thanks. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwery[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 1:24:13 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Bill, I bought the Hitachi c10fr for $200. It weighs about 40 pounds. The only thing I don't like about it is that the slots for the miter gauge are under sized slots, 5/16 by 5/8. The miter gauge is a good gauge with positive stops, 9 of them. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: John, I didn't know anything like that existed. What does something like that cost, and how heavy is it if you know? Thanks! Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 9:47:18 AM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table I can move my table saw up and down because it is a job site saw with fold and roll design. No, it isn't as good as a cabinet saw, but lack of money and space limited what I could get. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: Dale: Northern Dale has written a really definitive post here. I thought about buying a table or circ saw myself, and opted for the circ. From a practical standpoingnt, I have to do most cutting out of doors, and my shop is in the basement. That pretty much put the kibash on something as hard to move up and down stairs as a table saw. I finally bought a Skil HD77 because it has a worm gear drive and is pretty heavy. It can be a challenge waving it around, but if you hit a knott or bad spot, it doesn't buck as much as a lighter saw. The worm gear drive also makes it possible to use the saw where you need to apply water to the materiaal you're cutting if that's something you might be doing. There is a four-piece portable fence out there that extends to eight feet, and if I can ever get to the out-of-the-way hardware store to buy it, I'll provide the brand and model number. Good luck. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: Dale Altonmailto:dale%40mho.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/1/07 6:20:00 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Bill, the standard miter slot is 3/4 by 3/8, I think. So, I can't find an after market gauge because I have those smaller slots. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: John, thanks, and Xmas is coming right? Why is the size of the miter gauge slots important? Are there other tools or gauges that don't fit because of this? Thanks. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 1:24:13 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Bill, I bought the Hitachi c10fr for $200. It weighs about 40 pounds. The only thing I don't like about it is that the slots for the miter gauge are under sized slots, 5/16 by 5/8. The miter gauge is a good gauge with positive stops, 9 of them. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: John, I didn't know anything like that existed. What does something like that cost, and how heavy is it if you know? Thanks! Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 9:47:18 AM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table I can move my table saw up and down because it is a job site saw with fold and roll design. No, it isn't as good as a cabinet saw, but lack of money and space limited what I could get. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: Dale: Northern Dale has written a really definitive post here. I thought about buying a table or circ saw myself, and opted for the circ. From a practical standpoingnt, I have to do most cutting out of doors, and my shop is in the basement. That pretty much put the kibash on something as hard to move up and down stairs as a table saw. I finally bought a Skil HD77 because it has a worm gear drive and is pretty heavy. It can be a challenge waving it around, but if you hit a knott or bad spot, it doesn't buck as much as a lighter saw. The worm gear drive also makes it possible to use the saw where you need to apply water to the materiaal you're cutting if that's something you might be doing. There is a four-piece portable fence out there that extends to eight feet, and if I can ever get to the out-of-the-way hardware store to buy it, I'll provide the brand and model number. Good luck. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: Dale Altonmailto:dale%40mho.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/1/07 6:20:00 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
John, Do you know anybody who does machine work? It sounds like about an hours worth of work to mill those guide bars down to fit the slots on your saw. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Schwery Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 3:57 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Bill, the standard miter slot is 3/4 by 3/8, I think. So, I can't find an after market gauge because I have those smaller slots. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: John, thanks, and Xmas is coming right? Why is the size of the miter gauge slots important? Are there other tools or gauges that don't fit because of this? Thanks. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 1:24:13 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.comma ilto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Bill, I bought the Hitachi c10fr for $200. It weighs about 40 pounds. The only thing I don't like about it is that the slots for the miter gauge are under sized slots, 5/16 by 5/8. The miter gauge is a good gauge with positive stops, 9 of them. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: John, I didn't know anything like that existed. What does something like that cost, and how heavy is it if you know? Thanks! Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 9:47:18 AM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40y ahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table I can move my table saw up and down because it is a job site saw with fold and roll design. No, it isn't as good as a cabinet saw, but lack of money and space limited what I could get. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: Dale: Northern Dale has written a really definitive post here. I thought about buying a table or circ saw myself, and opted for the circ. From a practical standpoingnt, I have to do most cutting out of doors, and my shop is in the basement. That pretty much put the kibash on something as hard to move up and down stairs as a table saw. I finally bought a Skil HD77 because it has a worm gear drive and is pretty heavy. It can be a challenge waving it around, but if you hit a knott or bad spot, it doesn't buck as much as a lighter saw. The worm gear drive also makes it possible to use the saw where you need to apply water to the materiaal you're cutting if that's something you might be doing. There is a four-piece portable fence out there that extends to eight feet, and if I can ever get to the out-of-the-way hardware store to buy it, I'll provide the brand and model number. Good luck. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: Dale Altonmailto:dale%40mho.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/1/07 6:20:00 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40y ahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] oups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Larry, we have a metal shop close by that does fabricating. They might do it. earlier, Larry Stansifer, wrote: John, Do you know anybody who does machine work? It sounds like about an hours worth of work to mill those guide bars down to fit the slots on your saw. -Original Message- From: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Schwery Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 3:57 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Bill, the standard miter slot is 3/4 by 3/8, I think. So, I can't find an after market gauge because I have those smaller slots. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: John, thanks, and Xmas is coming right? Why is the size of the miter gauge slots important? Are there other tools or gauges that don't fit because of this? Thanks. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.commailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 1:24:13 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.comma ilto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Bill, I bought the Hitachi c10fr for $200. It weighs about 40 pounds. The only thing I don't like about it is that the slots for the miter gauge are under sized slots, 5/16 by 5/8. The miter gauge is a good gauge with positive stops, 9 of them. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: John, I didn't know anything like that existed. What does something like that cost, and how heavy is it if you know? Thanks! Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 9:47:18 AM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40y ahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table I can move my table saw up and down because it is a job site saw with fold and roll design. No, it isn't as good as a cabinet saw, but lack of money and space limited what I could get. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: Dale: Northern Dale has written a really definitive post here. I thought about buying a table or circ saw myself, and opted for the circ. From a practical standpoingnt, I have to do most cutting out of doors, and my shop is in the basement. That pretty much put the kibash on something as hard to move up and down stairs as a table saw. I finally bought a Skil HD77 because it has a worm gear drive and is pretty heavy. It can be a challenge waving it around, but if you hit a knott or bad spot, it doesn't buck as much as a lighter saw. The worm gear drive also makes it possible to use the saw where you need to apply water to the materiaal you're cutting if that's something you might be doing. There is a four-piece portable fence out there that extends to eight feet, and if I can ever get to the out-of-the-way hardware store to buy it, I'll provide the brand and model number. Good luck. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: Dale Altonmailto:dale%40mho.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/1/07 6:20:00 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40y ahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] oups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Bill, yep, I can use it. I even added a board to the gauge to give it more support. The bar for the gauge is only 14 inches long and that is one reason I would like to find an after market gauge. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: Thanks John, makes sense. You are though, able to use the miter gauge that came with the saw right?? Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 3:57:18 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Bill, the standard miter slot is 3/4 by 3/8, I think. So, I can't find an after market gauge because I have those smaller slots. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: John, thanks, and Xmas is coming right? Why is the size of the miter gauge slots important? Are there other tools or gauges that don't fit because of this? Thanks. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 1:24:13 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Bill, I bought the Hitachi c10fr for $200. It weighs about 40 pounds. The only thing I don't like about it is that the slots for the miter gauge are under sized slots, 5/16 by 5/8. The miter gauge is a good gauge with positive stops, 9 of them. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: John, I didn't know anything like that existed. What does something like that cost, and how heavy is it if you know? Thanks! Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 9:47:18 AM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table I can move my table saw up and down because it is a job site saw with fold and roll design. No, it isn't as good as a cabinet saw, but lack of money and space limited what I could get. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: Dale: Northern Dale has written a really definitive post here. I thought about buying a table or circ saw myself, and opted for the circ. From a practical standpoingnt, I have to do most cutting out of doors, and my shop is in the basement. That pretty much put the kibash on something as hard to move up and down stairs as a table saw. I finally bought a Skil HD77 because it has a worm gear drive and is pretty heavy. It can be a challenge waving it around, but if you hit a knott or bad spot, it doesn't buck as much as a lighter saw. The worm gear drive also makes it possible to use the saw where you need to apply water to the materiaal you're cutting if that's something you might be doing. There is a four-piece portable fence out there that extends to eight feet, and if I can ever get to the out-of-the-way hardware store to buy it, I'll provide the brand and model number. Good luck. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: Dale Altonmailto:dale%40mho.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/1/07 6:20:00 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Thanks John, makes sense. You are though, able to use the miter gauge that came with the saw right?? Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwery[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 3:57:18 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Bill, the standard miter slot is 3/4 by 3/8, I think. So, I can't find an after market gauge because I have those smaller slots. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: John, thanks, and Xmas is coming right? Why is the size of the miter gauge slots important? Are there other tools or gauges that don't fit because of this? Thanks. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 1:24:13 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Bill, I bought the Hitachi c10fr for $200. It weighs about 40 pounds. The only thing I don't like about it is that the slots for the miter gauge are under sized slots, 5/16 by 5/8. The miter gauge is a good gauge with positive stops, 9 of them. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: John, I didn't know anything like that existed. What does something like that cost, and how heavy is it if you know? Thanks! Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: John Schwerymailto:jschwery%40runbox.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/2/07 9:47:18 AM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table I can move my table saw up and down because it is a job site saw with fold and roll design. No, it isn't as good as a cabinet saw, but lack of money and space limited what I could get. earlier, William Stephan, wrote: Dale: Northern Dale has written a really definitive post here. I thought about buying a table or circ saw myself, and opted for the circ. From a practical standpoingnt, I have to do most cutting out of doors, and my shop is in the basement. That pretty much put the kibash on something as hard to move up and down stairs as a table saw. I finally bought a Skil HD77 because it has a worm gear drive and is pretty heavy. It can be a challenge waving it around, but if you hit a knott or bad spot, it doesn't buck as much as a lighter saw. The worm gear drive also makes it possible to use the saw where you need to apply water to the materiaal you're cutting if that's something you might be doing. There is a four-piece portable fence out there that extends to eight feet, and if I can ever get to the out-of-the-way hardware store to buy it, I'll provide the brand and model number. Good luck. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: Dale Altonmailto:dale%40mho.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/1/07 6:20:00 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
be a little more problematic than on a table saw. This is because the blade rarely comes very close to the shoe plate so gauging the absolute depth can be confounded. If you can see there is usually a scale on or near the depth lock, it is at best approximate even for optically enabled humans. The other problem is holding everything, the saw upside down, a gauge balanced over the gap in the shoe and the spring loaded blade guard ot of the way while you manipulate the depth lock control. It is easier if you hae a small sheet of material the desired thickness of the depth of the dado you want to cut, then set the saw on this sheet, retract the blade guard and slide the blade up against the cut edge of the sample depth board then raise or lower the saw until you feel the tips of the blade are at the same depth as the sample thickness and lock the machine to that depth. A step gauge can be used and I have often done it but it is just a little difficult. Cutting a rabbet can be done in the same way, it is nothing more than a dado with a missing side wall. I hope that I have addressed your questions satisfactorily. I don't want anyone to think for a moment that any of my posts represent the only or even necessarily the best method or technique. I am neither professional nor trained. I have had a certain amount of experience in these things and that is all. It is my hope that not everyone will have to use up all that time making many of the same mistakes I have made. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 11:18 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Dale, great post. Can you talk a little about cutting dados? I've never really grasped how to get the right depth with a circular saw or table saw either. Thanks! Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- From: Dale Leavens[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 11/1/07 8:43:07 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi Dale, I had a table saw long before I finally got a circular saw however I did have a jig saw which I used a lot for reducing plywood and other sheet goods down to manageable sizes. Thing is that even with a very big and top end table saw, wrestling sheet goods, even relatively light ones like quarter inch plywood around on a table saw is not only difficult but does add significant injury risk. You can add infeed and outfeed tables if you have enough shop space but it is still damn difficult and although I did quite a bit of it as a younger man I don't much fancy it today. If you are likely to do a lot of cabinet work into the future or where you need a high degree of accuracy to finished panels the table saw is what you want. Excellent work of most types can be accomplished with a hand held circular saw and a little care. It becomes somewhat more difficult to reproduce a series of identical cuts than with the fence on a table saw but again using jigs or other measuring sticks and such it certainly can be done. One can even cut dados and rabbets with care but it is more difficult. One can of course buy both a decent circular saw and a router or two and still have a pretty good chunk of change from the price of a decent table saw. A table saw certainly can be used safely by the blind. There are different techniques depending on your confidence and skill complement of course. You may wish to use path finding techniques to ensure safety, knowing that the blade is always in the same place means if you need you can locate some safe part of the machine like the far right near edge of the wing and near rail of the fence then follow that back to the fence and down to the switch for example. If on the other hand you are a little more sure of yourself you might, as I usually end up doing, kick the power switch on with the toe of my shoe. My saw is a 1975 vintage with a standard light switch for power. Kicking it off while controlling work and waiting for the blade to spin down sometimes requires a little imagination. Modern machines usually have something like a recessed push button for on and a big square panel you can hit with about any body part to turn it off. The beauty of a table saw is that it is relatively easy to set the rip fence to a suitable distance with a ruler or what ever, even an already cut piece can be slid up against the blade and the fence slid up to it. Using a circular saw with a decent shop made jig can be quite accurate too provided it is the sort where the base comes out where the saw has cut it flush so you can tell exactly where the blade will cut. Otherwise you must include an offset
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Wow! Great post Dale, thanks for taking the time to explain. And, I truly did have problems holding everything together while trying to set the depth on a circ saw, maybe it's time for a table saw like John has. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 6:51 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table There are a couple of ways to perform dado cuts with a table saw. The very best way is with a stacked dado head. This is a pair of saw blades separated by a suitable number of what are called chippers. A chipper is a somewhat 'S' shaped bit of metal wider in the middle with a hole through it to slide over the arbor on the table saw. At the tips of the 'S' the metal of the chipper is widened. These days this is usually done with a piece of carbide. The thickness of the chippers varies and there are washers otherwise called shims which can also be fitted between the blades and chippers or between the chippers. You add chippers and shims between the blades until you get the width you require for your dado cut. A second way uses a dado blade also often referred to as a wobble blade. This is a blade mounted against an angled, I don't know how else to describe it. It forms a sort of wedge in such a way that you can turn this device to alter the amount of wedge that the wobble blade rests against. This has the effect of tilting the blade so when it turns it wobbles from side-to-side thereby cutting a wide groove as it passes. the width can be adjusted by adjusting the shape of that wedge and thus the displacement of the wobble. There are issues with this approach, perhaps the most significant one being that the floor of the groove will not be absolutely flat but rather slightly arced. The third way that comes to mind and the one I often use for a single application mostly because I am lazy is to set the edge of the blade to one edge of the desired location of the dado and lock in the rip fence then push the board through. You may set it a little short then move the fence in very small increments to accurately locate the one edge. You then just keep moving the fence about the width of the saw blade and sequentially run the board through until you have traveled the fence the required distance for the width of the dado you want. This has the disadvantage that often the floor of the dado will be a little like corduroy which I argue leaves a place for excess glu to inhabit. It is also fairly easy to get your groove just a little wider than you wanted. All of these methods require that the saw is free of a blade guard of course. The real dado sets also require a table insert with a wider hole for the blade to protrude through. Usually dado sets are smaller, 6 or 8 inch diameter. The stacked head saws the two outer edges while the chippers chisel out the middle something like a planer would do. Setting the depth of the dado is generally easiest using a table saw because of the size of the table. My favorite method uses a step gauge one of my daughters sent to me a couple of Christmases ago. This is a flat bar of aluminium more or less trapezoidal in shape. Each sloped end has a series of quarter inch steps cut in it, at one end they are offset by an eighth of an inch so on one end the steps are 8th inch, 3 8th inch, 5 8th inch and so on. The opposite end are quarter inch, half, three quarters and so on. I figure usually 3 8ths depth in 3/4ths inch panels so I set the gauge on the table top and raise the blade until it is just touching the appropriate step. I spin the blade by hand listening for the evidence of it just barely skimming the appropriate step then lock that height in. I don't and never have owned a wobble blade I expect it might be a little tougher to set that way. I also use my step gauge to set router bit height. You cannot or rather you should not ever attempt to mount a dado style cutter into a hand held circular saw. This leaves you with one or two variations on my lazy man's dado done on the table saw. You can and do however continue to use the blade guard on your circular saw. Cutting a dado with a circular saw can be done in at least a couple of ways. Using a pencil mark of course is the traditional way, both sides of the dado are marked and you saw between the marks in several passes. Few of us can do that but we can use a saw board or straight edge and measure to locate it at one edge of the dado and then cut, then move the straight edge or other guide over incrementally and continue until you have the width you require. You might use a pair of cutting boards particularly one made for the motor side and one made for the outer edge of the saw then align them and clamp them so they form the outline of the dado you want to cut then just run the saw between them in several passes removing material until the dado is clear. Another way
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Dale modestly wrote. I don't want anyone to think for a moment that any of my posts represent the only or even necessarily the best method or technique. I am neither professional nor trained. I have had a certain amount of experience in these things and that is all. It is my hope that not everyone will have to use up all that time making many of the same mistakes I have made. I think Dale has forgotten more than I'll ever know about woodworking. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 6:50 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table There are a couple of ways to perform dado cuts with a table saw. The very best way is with a stacked dado head. This is a pair of saw blades separated by a suitable number of what are called chippers. A chipper is a somewhat 'S' shaped bit of metal wider in the middle with a hole through it to slide over the arbor on the table saw. At the tips of the 'S' the metal of the chipper is widened. These days this is usually done with a piece of carbide. The thickness of the chippers varies and there are washers otherwise called shims which can also be fitted between the blades and chippers or between the chippers. You add chippers and shims between the blades until you get the width you require for your dado cut. A second way uses a dado blade also often referred to as a wobble blade. This is a blade mounted against an angled, I don't know how else to describe it. It forms a sort of wedge in such a way that you can turn this device to alter the amount of wedge that the wobble blade rests against. This has the effect of tilting the blade so when it turns it wobbles from side-to-side thereby cutting a wide groove as it passes. the width can be adjusted by adjusting the shape of that wedge and thus the displacement of the wobble. There are issues with this approach, perhaps the most significant one being that the floor of the groove will not be absolutely flat but rather slightly arced. The third way that comes to mind and the one I often use for a single application mostly because I am lazy is to set the edge of the blade to one edge of the desired location of the dado and lock in the rip fence then push the board through. You may set it a little short then move the fence in very small increments to accurately locate the one edge. You then just keep moving the fence about the width of the saw blade and sequentially run the board through until you have traveled the fence the required distance for the width of the dado you want. This has the disadvantage that often the floor of the dado will be a little like corduroy which I argue leaves a place for excess glu to inhabit. It is also fairly easy to get your groove just a little wider than you wanted. All of these methods require that the saw is free of a blade guard of course. The real dado sets also require a table insert with a wider hole for the blade to protrude through. Usually dado sets are smaller, 6 or 8 inch diameter. The stacked head saws the two outer edges while the chippers chisel out the middle something like a planer would do. Setting the depth of the dado is generally easiest using a table saw because of the size of the table. My favorite method uses a step gauge one of my daughters sent to me a couple of Christmases ago. This is a flat bar of aluminium more or less trapezoidal in shape. Each sloped end has a series of quarter inch steps cut in it, at one end they are offset by an eighth of an inch so on one end the steps are 8th inch, 3 8th inch, 5 8th inch and so on. The opposite end are quarter inch, half, three quarters and so on. I figure usually 3 8ths depth in 3/4ths inch panels so I set the gauge on the table top and raise the blade until it is just touching the appropriate step. I spin the blade by hand listening for the evidence of it just barely skimming the appropriate step then lock that height in. I don't and never have owned a wobble blade I expect it might be a little tougher to set that way. I also use my step gauge to set router bit height. You cannot or rather you should not ever attempt to mount a dado style cutter into a hand held circular saw. This leaves you with one or two variations on my lazy man's dado done on the table saw. You can and do however continue to use the blade guard on your circular saw. Cutting a dado with a circular saw can be done in at least a couple of ways. Using a pencil mark of course is the traditional way, both sides of the dado are marked and you saw between the marks in several
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
HI, I have a circular saw for cutting plywood and large things like that. My son got me a circular saw guide from sears with clamps that hook on the saw and you can cut up to 2 foot with it. Works really good... ROB FROM MINNESOTA - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 7:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Wow! Great post Dale, thanks for taking the time to explain. And, I truly did have problems holding everything together while trying to set the depth on a circ saw, maybe it's time for a table saw like John has. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 6:51 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table There are a couple of ways to perform dado cuts with a table saw. The very best way is with a stacked dado head. This is a pair of saw blades separated by a suitable number of what are called chippers. A chipper is a somewhat 'S' shaped bit of metal wider in the middle with a hole through it to slide over the arbor on the table saw. At the tips of the 'S' the metal of the chipper is widened. These days this is usually done with a piece of carbide. The thickness of the chippers varies and there are washers otherwise called shims which can also be fitted between the blades and chippers or between the chippers. You add chippers and shims between the blades until you get the width you require for your dado cut. A second way uses a dado blade also often referred to as a wobble blade. This is a blade mounted against an angled, I don't know how else to describe it. It forms a sort of wedge in such a way that you can turn this device to alter the amount of wedge that the wobble blade rests against. This has the effect of tilting the blade so when it turns it wobbles from side-to-side thereby cutting a wide groove as it passes. the width can be adjusted by adjusting the shape of that wedge and thus the displacement of the wobble. There are issues with this approach, perhaps the most significant one being that the floor of the groove will not be absolutely flat but rather slightly arced. The third way that comes to mind and the one I often use for a single application mostly because I am lazy is to set the edge of the blade to one edge of the desired location of the dado and lock in the rip fence then push the board through. You may set it a little short then move the fence in very small increments to accurately locate the one edge. You then just keep moving the fence about the width of the saw blade and sequentially run the board through until you have traveled the fence the required distance for the width of the dado you want. This has the disadvantage that often the floor of the dado will be a little like corduroy which I argue leaves a place for excess glu to inhabit. It is also fairly easy to get your groove just a little wider than you wanted. All of these methods require that the saw is free of a blade guard of course. The real dado sets also require a table insert with a wider hole for the blade to protrude through. Usually dado sets are smaller, 6 or 8 inch diameter. The stacked head saws the two outer edges while the chippers chisel out the middle something like a planer would do. Setting the depth of the dado is generally easiest using a table saw because of the size of the table. My favorite method uses a step gauge one of my daughters sent to me a couple of Christmases ago. This is a flat bar of aluminium more or less trapezoidal in shape. Each sloped end has a series of quarter inch steps cut in it, at one end they are offset by an eighth of an inch so on one end the steps are 8th inch, 3 8th inch, 5 8th inch and so on. The opposite end are quarter inch, half, three quarters and so on. I figure usually 3 8ths depth in 3/4ths inch panels so I set the gauge on the table top and raise the blade until it is just touching the appropriate step. I spin the blade by hand listening for the evidence of it just barely skimming the appropriate step then lock that height in. I don't and never have owned a wobble blade I expect it might be a little tougher to set that way. I also use my step gauge to set router bit height. You cannot or rather you should not ever attempt to mount a dado style cutter into a hand held circular saw. This leaves you with one or two variations on my lazy man's dado done on the table saw. You can and do however continue to use the blade guard on your circular saw. Cutting a dado with a circular saw can be done in at least a couple of ways. Using a pencil mark of course is the traditional way, both sides of the dado are marked and you saw between the marks in several passes. Few of us
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Dale, table saws are definitely safe for totals to use, as I'm total. But, for cutting plywood, large sheets are tricky to do on a table saw. Your cupboard idea would probably work for a table saw. earlier, Dale Alton, wrote: Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.17/1103 - Release Date: 11/1/2007 6:01 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.17/1103 - Release Date: 11/1/2007 6:01 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Well I feel safer using my table saw than allowing sighted friends to use it. Sighted people tend to take things for granted where we can't. I have never toyed with a circular saw. I think that my dad's old one is in the basement. I will have to dust it off one of these days. - Original Message - From: Dale Alton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 8:20 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Hi Dale, There are people with a lot more expertise than me on this list. But, sense it sounds like your a beginner like me I thought I'd jump in here. When cutting full sheets of plywood I prefer a circular saw. They are hard to maneuver on a table saw without extras that I don't have. When cutting smaller pieces I like the table saw. It is quicker and easier to set a fence on the table saw than to clamp a straight edge to guide the circular saw. The table saw is much easier with narrow pieces because you don't have to balance the saw on the piece you are cutting. On the other hand, a circular saw is lots cheaper and takes up a lot less space. I would not get a bench top table saw. I like my Ryobi because it has a sled that the miter gauge is attached to. It is pretty inexpensive and marginally well-made so some people would want something better. HTH _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale Alton Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 7:20 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of, and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table
Hi Dale, I had a table saw long before I finally got a circular saw however I did have a jig saw which I used a lot for reducing plywood and other sheet goods down to manageable sizes. Thing is that even with a very big and top end table saw, wrestling sheet goods, even relatively light ones like quarter inch plywood around on a table saw is not only difficult but does add significant injury risk. You can add infeed and outfeed tables if you have enough shop space but it is still damn difficult and although I did quite a bit of it as a younger man I don't much fancy it today. If you are likely to do a lot of cabinet work into the future or where you need a high degree of accuracy to finished panels the table saw is what you want. Excellent work of most types can be accomplished with a hand held circular saw and a little care. It becomes somewhat more difficult to reproduce a series of identical cuts than with the fence on a table saw but again using jigs or other measuring sticks and such it certainly can be done. One can even cut dados and rabbets with care but it is more difficult. One can of course buy both a decent circular saw and a router or two and still have a pretty good chunk of change from the price of a decent table saw. A table saw certainly can be used safely by the blind. There are different techniques depending on your confidence and skill complement of course. You may wish to use path finding techniques to ensure safety, knowing that the blade is always in the same place means if you need you can locate some safe part of the machine like the far right near edge of the wing and near rail of the fence then follow that back to the fence and down to the switch for example. If on the other hand you are a little more sure of yourself you might, as I usually end up doing, kick the power switch on with the toe of my shoe. My saw is a 1975 vintage with a standard light switch for power. Kicking it off while controlling work and waiting for the blade to spin down sometimes requires a little imagination. Modern machines usually have something like a recessed push button for on and a big square panel you can hit with about any body part to turn it off. The beauty of a table saw is that it is relatively easy to set the rip fence to a suitable distance with a ruler or what ever, even an already cut piece can be slid up against the blade and the fence slid up to it. Using a circular saw with a decent shop made jig can be quite accurate too provided it is the sort where the base comes out where the saw has cut it flush so you can tell exactly where the blade will cut. Otherwise you must include an offset to the edge of the shoe for aligning the guide as I have to do since I still haven't got around to making such a jig. I recently saw a jig designed for cross cutting with a pivot for locking in an angle. It is interesting in a way, I well remember observers goggling my makeshift jigs in some kind of wonder and now 30 years later they sell them in major department stores albeit rather more refined (and expensive) than the blind pioneered of necessity. Unless you expect to continue a vigorous hobby into the future I think I would hold off the table saw. You will always want a circular saw anyway. It is well worth while to buy a good quality one. This can be said of all tools and it is also true of a table saw only a decent table saw will cost in the range of 800 to 1000 dollars. A cheaper one will disappoint and you won't be wanting to use it a lot. If you really get into the work you will soon regret not having bought a better one and your money will be wasted. It may discourage you from continuing. You can get a darn good little 7 and a quarter inch circular saw for a hundred and fifty bucks or less, I really like my little Makita MAG model for about a hundred and twenty five, good quality, light, toolless blade change, it is available in right and left side blade and should remain accurate as it is a well made tool. Doubtless there will be other opinions, there are a lot of stamped steel table saws for a couple of hundred bucks out there and I don't intend to get into a debate on that. I have used them occasionally on a job site and they work well enough where 8th inch accuracy is adequate, light to shift onto the bed of a pickup truck and not a big loss if they get knocked around a bit but beyond construction carpentry I don't like or recommend them. I hope this is helpful. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Dale Alton To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 8:20 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table Hi gang, I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am
