[BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.

2007-02-05 Thread Dan Rossi
Ray,

I need your snooping expertise.  I am going to do some research but you 
have a nack for searching.

How do you go about determining how much tubing you would put under a 
floor to provide heat for a room?  I mean, I could probably stick for or 
five lengths of Copper tubing in each joist bay, but then again, 900 feet 
of Copper tubing might be a bit much to heat a room.

The truly sad thing is that I am supposed to be able to calculate this 
stuff.  Hell, I probably have in the past, but there have been a 
sufficient number of years between now and my having taken heat transfer 
and Thermo Dynamics that I just don't remember anymore.  Use it or lose 
it, that is the truth.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.

2007-02-05 Thread Boyce, Ray
 the floors by a couple of inches,
which can be a
problem when remodeling. Some thin electric systems only elevate the
floor by about 1/8 inch. Also, the concrete slab of hydronic systems can
take a few
hours to heat up once they've been turned on. Electric systems usually
take between 30 minutes and an hour to heat up. In most cases, electric
systems
are governed by a timer and a thermostat that homeowners preset with
on/off cycles.
 
While the electricity cost of generating 1,000 Btu's may be cheaper with
a hydronic system than with an electric system, the way the systems
operate plays
quite a role in energy costs. Hydronic systems are generally left on for
a period of months to accommodate the lengthy heat-up time of the
systems. Electrical
systems are usually timed to switch on and off according to when the
homeowners will be at their house. The many off sessions cut down the
cost of electricity.
So consider your lifestyle and how you will be using the heating system.
 
Cost of installation depends on the nature of the job. For remodeling
projects or single-room installations in new homes, hydronic systems
will cost more
to install. However, in large jobs such as whole-house applications in
new construction, a hydronic system will cost less.
 
Hydronic Installation
 
As mentioned earlier, the tubing in hydronic systems is usually embedded
in a concrete slab or a 1 1/2-inch-thick concrete overlay on top of a
wood floor.
This is usually referred to as a wet installation. The tubing can also
be suspended in the space below wooden floors or stapled on top of
subfloors,
which is commonly called a dry installation. But a concrete or wet
installation provides better soundproofing and fireproofing, as well as
adds stability
and protection to the tubing for a sturdier floor. Almost all tubing for
hydronic systems is guaranteed for 25 years, with a lifetime expectancy
of 100
years. But the best bet for longevity is that the tubing be installed by
an experienced radiant floor contractor. If you're absolutely determined
to tackle
one of these projects yourself, you can take advantage of some available
literature from the RPA website, where you can download installation
guidelines
in a PDF format. Visit
www.radiantpanelassociation.org.
 
 
A hydronic system usually requires a slab of concrete, and professional
installation is recommended. (Photo courtesy Uponor-Wirsbo)
 
 




From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Tuesday, 6 February 2007 06:22
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.



Ray,

I need your snooping expertise. I am going to do some research but you 
have a nack for searching.

How do you go about determining how much tubing you would put under a 
floor to provide heat for a room? I mean, I could probably stick for or 
five lengths of Copper tubing in each joist bay, but then again, 900
feet 
of Copper tubing might be a bit much to heat a room.

The truly sad thing is that I am supposed to be able to calculate this 
stuff. Hell, I probably have in the past, but there have been a 
sufficient number of years between now and my having taken heat transfer

and Thermo Dynamics that I just don't remember anymore. Use it or lose 
it, that is the truth.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu 
Tel: (412) 268-9081


 

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.

2007-02-05 Thread Dan Rossi
Hey Ray,

Thanks fore the info.  I have been researching this for the last couple of 
hours, (both Teresa and I took the day off from work to recover after 
spending two days on our knees scraping at the damn floor).

Anyway, looks like it won't be easy to figure out much unless I do some 
really serious, in depth, research.  One thing I read did say that you 
shouldn't have more than 280 feet of 5/8 inch PEX in a single circuit. 
5/8 inch PEX seems to be a good balance between cost, heat transfer, and 
pump power.

These wet underfloor systems run at lower water temps than your regular 
hot water heating system, but then again, my hot water system doesn't run 
at a very high temp either.  You have to be careful not to run hot water, 
right up against the underside of a floor or else you may cause the 
surface of the floor to discolor in a striped pattern where the hot tubes 
are.

It seems obvious that you would have a small air gap under the floor where 
the hot tubes are.  Then a reflective surface below that.  Then insolation 
below that.

Some of my questions would be how do you make the transition from joist 
bay to joist bay?  Can you drill a 3/4 inch hole through each joist? 
Would you have to do some additional support then since you will weaken 
the joist?

How much head loss is there in 280 feet of PEX tubing verses that in a six 
foot cast iron radiator?

Lots of questions, but mostly just for fun as I don't think I can do this 
without a significant change to my current furnace.  Not sure though.

Man, I would love to just build a house from scratch with my own two 
hands, putting in all kinds of neat tech just for fun.

Oh well, dreams are fun.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.

2007-02-05 Thread Dale Leavens
Hi Dan,

They usually use PEX these days and you don't have to solder it either. You 
fix clips to the underside of the floor and usually below that some 
reflective material and maybe some insulation.

You can even zone it . Depending on the application you connect the ends to 
manifolds at the end so that loops don't have to be continuous.

This doesn't answer your question but the task does not require all that 
copper.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 2:22 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.


 Ray,

 I need your snooping expertise.  I am going to do some research but you
 have a nack for searching.

 How do you go about determining how much tubing you would put under a
 floor to provide heat for a room?  I mean, I could probably stick for or
 five lengths of Copper tubing in each joist bay, but then again, 900 feet
 of Copper tubing might be a bit much to heat a room.

 The truly sad thing is that I am supposed to be able to calculate this
 stuff.  Hell, I probably have in the past, but there have been a
 sufficient number of years between now and my having taken heat transfer
 and Thermo Dynamics that I just don't remember anymore.  Use it or lose
 it, that is the truth.

 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Tel: (412) 268-9081


 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
 List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

 Visit the new archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
 list just send a blank message to:
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 Yahoo! Groups Links






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Re: [BlindHandyMan] RAY: Radiant floor heating info.

2007-02-05 Thread Dan Rossi
Dale,

Yeah, it's just that what goes through my head is often a lot more than I 
feel like writing down.  I understand that PEX can be laid down nice and 
easy in one continuous flow but you can't make sharp bends so I figure you 
can only get two rows into each joist bay, just a guess.  Whereas, Copper 
could, in theory, be joined with tighter turns and you could get a lot 
more rows into each joist bay.  That is what was going through my head. 
That and the thought that if I said would I need to lay down seven rows of 
PEX in each joist bay someone would have told me that you can't make it 
turn that tight and you would never get that many S folds in 14 inches, 
alright alright, 14.5 inches. *GRIN*

The real question is how many is enough?  One per bay?  Seven per bay?

There is some set of calculations out there that deals with the water 
temperature, the heat conductivity of the floor above the tubing, the size 
of the room, the flow rate of the hot water through the pipes, and a guess 
at the heat loss from the room, which is a whole different set of 
calculations.  I'm just being lazy and don't feel like digging through 20 
year old tests and homework assignments to teach myself all that stuff 
again.  *GRIN*

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
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